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Gooseberry Mostly Trad climbing 15 routes in sector

15
YDS
5.05.25.45.65.75.85.95.10a5.10c5.11a

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Mount Nemo

There is a top-roping ban in effect meaning that top-ropes may only be setup by a climber who has led the climb from the ground up. DO NOT SLING CEDARS and pad all other trees when building anchors.

Descent notes

Easy Descent via the Goodeberry gully which is obvious as the trail crosses it.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.5 ★★ Just for Laughs, or Possible Late for Dinner Trad 12m

About 20m left of the Bookends corner, look for a left-facing corner about 5m up the wall, below a square roof. Climb up to the corner, then to the roof, dodge it to the left, then up a short hand crack on the left side of the roof, then step right to a brushy ledge to finish.

2
5.9 R Thesaureor Trad 12m

Climb the thin left face of the Bookends corner.

3
5.6 Bookends Trad
4
5.5 The Racoon Trad

Starts at number 37

5
5.4 ★★ No Sweat Trad

Starts at number 36

6
5.6 Solo Trad

Starts at number 35

7
5.0 Easy Does It Trad
8
5.8 ★★★ Siren Trad

Starts at number 33.

9
5.4 Early Morning Trad
10
5.9 ★ Good to the Last Drop Sport 10m

Retro-bolted. Anchors are below the roof.

If the roof is pulled, goes at 5.11b -- currently not bolted past the anchors.

11
5.10b ★★ The Black Wall Sport 11m

Climb the steep face just left of the Easy Steps corner to a bolted anchor. Very high first bolt.

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12
5.3 ★ Easy Steps Trad 12m

Climb the featured, but usually dirty, corner.

13
5.7 ★★ Too Fast In The Fog Trad 10m

Climb the smaller cracks on the face right of the corner. Watch for the large loose block about 1/3 of the way up.

14
5.2 Bring a Shovel Trad
15
5.11b ★★★ Sharptooth Sport 9

7 Bolts plus anchors. Climb up to a roof and rest at the "namesake" hold before entering the crux. Continue up the face to reach another onsight eliminating roof just below the anchors.

Set: Scott Chuback, 9 Sep 2017

FFA: Scott Chuback, 9 Sep 2017

FA: Scott Chuback, 9 Sep 2017

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Ontario Climbing: Volume 2 The Northern Escarpment

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046610

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, the Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers the portion of the Escarpment north of Shelburne including the Beaver Valley area and the Bruce Peninsula. Includes an extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1000 rock-climbing routes.

Buy
ⓘ
Ontario Climbing: Vol 1 The Southern Escarpment

Author(s): Gus Alexandropoulos, Justin Dwyer

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780995046603

A comprehensive guidebook to Southern Ontario’s famous climbing area, The Niagara Escarpment. This is the first complete guide to the region in almost 25 years. This volume covers areas close to Toronto, including the popular Milton crags. Includes extensively researched history of climbing in the area, and detailed information on over 1,000 rock climbing routes.

Buy
ⓘ

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5.8 ★★★ Siren

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★★★ Siren 5.8 - IMG_3585.jpeg

★★★ Siren 5.8 - IMG_3586.jpeg

★ Good to the Last Drop 5.9 - 20220814_001230.jpg

Wed 19 Apr
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