Some chossy cliffs set in amongst even worse rock. Blame Covid. (Helmets are strongly recommended). Majority of the routes to date are sport. Rock is pretty soft, but the views are great!! The access is harder than a couple of the climbs.
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
From the town of Dudley, drive and park near the end of Ocean St before the turning circle(, -32.993529, 151.725557 ) taking care not to block residents access. Walk down the road extension to the fire trail at the end of the street, passing two locked gates.
From the clearing with a large anglophone ( red gum) and a picnic table, you have two options:
Follow a narrow fisherman's track on the left that descends to sea level, passing a dubious safety line. Once on the rocks, head south for around 300m till you come to the first routes. Most of the climbs are on walls of black rock that faces south east.
An alternative (equally long but much more exciting) approach is via a 25-30m abseil (though it feels much higher) from a tree in the corner above the new beginner climbs (currently called unknown and unknown 2). Instead of taking the fisherman's track, continue straight to the end of Ocean View Trail/Bluff Track. You will come to a little clearing. From here, you want to follow Bluff Trail down the slope towards the cliff edge. The start of the trail is overgrown and may be a little hard to see. Once you reach the cliff edge, the abseil tree is 5m left (32°59'51.7"S 151°43'51.5"E), accessible via a small path- be careful here! The path is quite narrow, grassy and right on the edge. Don't forget to enjoy the epic views on the way down and please consider using a tree protectors/padding to keep the tree happy.
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theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a questionAuthor(s): Tim Haasnoot
Date: 2013
ISBN: 9780975129319
An area that has steep sport routes, trad cracks, deep-water-soling, sea cliff climbing and bouldering all within a short drive to some beautiful beaches and national parks is surely worth a look in. The Newcastle and Hunter Rock Climbing guide by Tim Haasnoot is feature packed and includes all the areas worth a day trip from Newcastle. This guide features over 950 routes, 170 boulder problems and 100 DWS with full topo maps and navigation info.
★ Essential Services 16 - Essential Services
Laurent Martin on ★ Sargent Starfish 15 - Sargent Starfish
Jason Piper on ★★ Interstate Travel 22 - Interstate Travel - Rest Stop
Jason Piper on ★★ Dude Leah 24 - Dude Leah
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