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Main Boardwalk 41 routes in Cliff

  • Avg. Height: 18m
  • Style: Trad,Sport and Aid
  • Ascents: 1,724
Description:

The L hand end of the crag where there is a well maintained track and boardwalk. There are over a dozen fixed anchors along the top of the cliff, so many of the routes can be top-roped. There's quite a lot of loose rock around so on a busy day it's a good idea to wear a helmet at all times when you're at the base of the cliff.

Access Issues: inherited from Werribee Gorge

State park

Parks Victoria advises that 'Falcons Lookout' is currently the only area open for climbing.

Descent Notes:

Walk off the back if you're not toproping.

Ethic: inherited from Werribee Gorge

Visitors are encouraged to use this area responsibly and to adopt safe practices during all climbing and aseiling activities. The use of safety equipment, including helmets, is recommended.

Please keep to the tracks, observe access agreements, remove all rubbish, and climb safely.

Routes

Route Grade Popularity Style
1 Leaveitation

The flake around to the Left of 'Anal Crank'.

FA: Martin Lama (solo), 1991

12
Trad 7m
Route Grade Popularity Style
2 * Anal Crank

The first quasi-decent sheer orange face you get to after coming down the stairs.

Up from the cave then L to the arete.

FA: Mike Law (solo), 1984

21
Sport 12m, 3
Route Grade Popularity Style
3 It

Start as for 'Anal Crank'.

Straight up the faint seam in the middle of the orange wall.

FA: aided pre. Free details unknown., 1976

M2
Aid 10m, 3
4 Brutus

Start 2m Right of 'It'.

The corner.

FA: Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood, 1970

13
Trad 10m
Route Grade Popularity Style
5 Execution

As usual CB commandeered the blunt end for this "extreme" piece of climbing.

Start 9m R of 'Brutus'.

The L corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter, 1971

12
Trad 11m
6 Persecution

Up the crack 2m Right of 'Execution' to broken blocks at the top.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter, 1971

12
Trad 13m
7 Consul

Start at small cave 1m Right of 'Persecution'.

Up the arete between 'Persecution' and 'SPQR'.

FA: Nick Reeves, 1977

15
Trad 12m
Route Grade Popularity Style
8 SPQR

Inexplicably given 3 stars in previous guides.

Start 1m R of Consul's arete.

Up the R sloping crack then R up larger crack.

FA: Bernie Lyons, Steve Craddock, Gary Lovejoy, 1971

10
Trad 13m
9 Gladiator

Pull out of cave(4m R of SPQR) and up right side of large scoop. Step R and up to to big pockets. Straight up widening cracks in the headwall.

13
Trad 12m
10 Power-slave

Start 1m Left of 'Cuniculum'.

Up to ledge then R and up.

FA: Martin Lama, Graeme Smith, 1991

21
Trad 12m
Route Grade Popularity Style
11 Cuniculum

Start 10m Right of 'SPQR'.

The rotten line.

FA: Peter Jacob, John McMahon, 1971

14
Trad 12m
12 Ebony

Start 2m Right of 'Cuniculum'.

Up the black streak then Left along the easier crack.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft (Toprope), 1977

FFA: Kevin Lindorff, 1978

20 R
Trad 14m
13 French Revolution

Fairly respectable by Werribee standards.

Start 2m R of 'Ebony'.

The face the L to the arete.

FA: Andrew Cannon, Andrew Stevens, 1988

21
Sport 14m, 3
14 * Slave Girl

Good climbing. The gear is adequate but very fiddly; it regularly sees gear-popping falls.

Start 2m L of 'Conscientious Pontius'.

Shares French Revolution's first bolt.

Up orange wall then R to vertical seam.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft,

FFA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, 1970

FA: Hugh Foxcroft (Aid M3), 1977

22 R
Trad 14m, 1
15 * Conscientious Pontius

2 star hand jamming ... for about 3 moves.

The obvious hand crack to the ledge and then up the flared crack in the orange face above.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, 1970

17
Trad 13m
16 Hadrian Direct Finish

A much better quality finish, though you have to pretend the block on the R isn't there.

Start 2m R of 'Conscientious Pontius'.

The finger crack with forks at the top. Take the L fork.

FA: Peter McKeand, Andrew Thomson, 1971

20
Trad 5m
17 Hadrian

One move wonder, but still ok.

Start 2m R of 'Conscientious Pontius'.

The finger crack with forks at the top. Finish R up the ramp and corner.

FA: Peter McKeand, Andrew Thomson, 1971

16
Trad 12m
18 Rusty Nail

A shite sandbag squeeze job.

The bolted line between 'Hadrian' and 'Big Ears'.

FA: Brad Johnston, Marnie Pascoe, 1999

18
Trad 13m, 2
Route Grade Popularity Style
19 Big Ears

One of the best easy routes here.

Upgraded from 15 when a block came off. There's another still there at about 6m which might go someday so don't put your gear behind it.

Up the broken corner 3m R of 'Hadrian'.

FA: Peter McKeand, Andrew Thomson, 1971

15
Trad 14m
20 * Snatch and Grab

This good little number is polishing it's way up through the grades.

Start 2m R of 'Big Ears'.

Suspiciously "uniform" incuts to gain sidepull flake, nice moves over black bulge. Optional trad at the top.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Jeremy Boreham, Rod Young, 1978

21
Sport 14m, 4
21 Cut-lunch Cowboys

Contrived, but the moves up high are quite ok.

Start 3m R of 'Snatch and Grab'.

The flakey line to the arete. Climb L side of the arete. Resist the urge to stem L or R.

FA: Simon Parsons, Russell Crow, 1988

22
Trad 14m, 2
22 Death Gate

Start 4m R of 'Snatch and Grab'.

Loose scary corner/crack.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, 1971

12 R
Trad 15m
23 Never Out Gunned

Start as for 'Sweet Chariot'.

Hug up the arete between 'Death Gate' and 'Sweet Chariot'.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2005

23
Trad 14m, 2
24 Sweet Chariot

Far superior to SPQR. Good jamming and interesting moves all the way up the nice corner.

The corner crack 1m R of 'Death Gate'.

FA: Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood, 1970

11
Trad 16m
25 Vulcan

Squeeze job with worthless pro, but good moves, so skip the hero act and just top-rope it.

Start at the corner 4m R of 'Sweet Chariot'.

Up the corner to the rooflet then R and up.

FA: Reg Marron, Nic Taylor, 1974

19 R
Trad 25m
26 Pet of Demetrius

Climb 'Vulcan' to the flake. Go R and around arete, then follow the crack in the upper L wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, Ian Ross, 1970

17
Trad 20m
Route Grade Popularity Style
27 * Tina the Ballerina from Pasadena

One of the few Werribee routes that deserves the star it was given in the printed guide.

Start 1m L of 'Barbara Streisand'.

Up to flake then straight up the middle of the face. Add points for style if you finish direct over the middle of the overlap, otherwise finish up Vulcan.

Step R to descend from Barbara's chains.

FA: Kim Carrigan (top-rope), 1970

FFA: Wayne Jensen, David Coulson, 1990

22
Sport 18m, 5
28 ** Barbra Streisand

Did a singer ever have more appropriate initials?

The bolted line L of the prominent arete.

FA: Kim Carrigan (top-rope), 1970

FFA: Mike Law, Ian Ravenscroft, Jim Thomas, 1982

23
Sport 18m, 5
29 Ben Hur

The crack just Right of 'Barbara Streisand'. Finish up the ramp.

FA: Keith Lockwood, 1970

14
Trad 18m
30 Marcus Schaevola

Start as for 'Hannibal' the short crack on Left to ledge, Left and up.

FA: Ian Ross, Keith Lockwood, 1971

15
Trad 25m
31 Hannibal

Start 6m Right of 'Barbara Streisand'.

Up flakes to ramp then Right into the orange corner.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, David Neilson, Michael Stone, 1971

14
Trad 24m
32 Discipuli

Start as for 'Hannibal' then Right to steep Right leading corner/crack.

FA: Ian Ross, Geoff Gledhill, 1972

16
Trad 25m
Route Grade Popularity Style
33 Androcles

Previously given 2 stars ... what the?! For poor rock-starved Melbourne-ites, it'll eventually be worth doing ... but not even they could seriously give this route any stars.

Start 5m R of 'Hannibal'.

The hand-crack through the bulge, then the wider crack above the ledge, finishing up crack on L.

FA: Peter McKeand, 1971

16 R
Trad 27m
34 Cicero

Start 3m Right of 'Androcles'.

Up flakes to corner crack then overhang. On through blocks and ledges.

FA: Andrew Thomson, Tim Hancock, Peter McKeand, 1971

14
Trad 27m
35 Octavia

Start 2.5m Right of Cicero.

Up broken flakes to overhang then crack over blocks. Right beneath summit block to crack.

FA: Bruno Zielke, Bob Connell, 1971

15
Trad 30m
36 Spintrian

Start 3m Left of 'Golgotha'.

Up arete to the ledge below Octavia's crux, then Right and up grooves to ledge. Up cracks then Left to finish up Octavia's final crack.

FA: Ian Ross, Michael Stone, 1971

16 X
Trad 30m
37 * Golgotha

This offwidth corner crack has a fan club of thrutchaholics.

Start up the ramp on L then into and up the imposing corner-crack.

FA: Norm Booth, Keith Lockwood, 1971

18
Trad 30m
38 Golgotha R Wall Variant

Start as for 'Golgotha'.

Go halfway up the corner-crack then Right at the rooflet, follow the seam across to finish up Redex's finger crack.

FA: Greg Child, Kim Carrigan (top-tope), 1970

FFA: Simon Parsons, Matt Barrett, 1988

23
Trad 33m
Route Grade Popularity Style
39 ** Nero on the Rampage

Start as for 'Redex Irlont Sudano' then continue straight up when Redex goes Right.

FA: Wayne Jensen, 1990

24
Sport 24m, 6
40 *** Redex Irlont Sudano

Possibly the best route at Werribee, and a nice easy tick at the grade.

Start 3m R of 'Golgotha'.

Easy slab, over bulge, then traverse R along lip. Up face 3m L of arete to gain finger crack finish. Lower-offs are on the R just below the capstone.

FA: Mike Law, Ian Ravenscroft, 1982

24
Sport 30m, 8
41 ** Holiday Sidewinder

Excellent and seriously underrated in previous guides.

Start beneath the proud arete 3m R of Redex.

The crux bulge down low is easier than appearances suggest, but very technical...and no piking off to the R! Above that is an awesome airy sustained arete, stay on the R side at first, but move to the L side at the cave, and at the top step L to Redex's loweroffs.

FA: Mike Law, Steve Howden, 1991

23
Sport 22m, 8