I am very conflicted on grading at Calabogie. Given that someone has labelled Stage Left as 5.9 and Stage Right as 5.8 on the little rock plates at the bottom -- the opening sequence of this is far harder than anything on Stage Left.
Or, comparing to Moje Slato (rock says 5.9+) or Hakuna Matata (5.10a?). I don't think this is any easier than Hakuna Matata, but is harder than Moje Zlato.
Then again, I've down-graded most of those when grading on here.
I also find it harder than Grunt (5.9), which isn't one of the "new" 5.9s. But, I've also always thought Grunt was the softest 5.9 around Calabogie.
But, yeah, probably more like a 5.9, I guess.
Yeah, I hear you on the grading. I do think this climb is easier than Hakuna Matata. It has one sort of tricky move out of the high stem. Hakuna Matata has some sustained climbing to and though an overhang (unless you use the finger traverse of course). It's defiantly easier than any of 10a's in the Core Value sector. Breakfast in Vienna is a very similar climb with some delicate, thin moves into a break in an overhang with a 5.easy slab topout. It's 5.9, and the move though the overhang is quite a bit more strenuous. I think I would personally call it a 5.8.
The rocks on Stage Right and Left are ridiculous. My 9yr old can climb Stage Right (not directly on the bolts, but still within the bolt path and not up the climb right of it.)
But, yeah.. grades. Ugh.
Jim Clark started this discussion 8 years ago.
There is no way this is a 10a. The high stem under the roof is a bit insecure, but you're moving though on a very positive hold and the rest of the climb is 5.easy.