Ascents of M&M

Awesome fun. Beautiful splitter with a lot of rests,looks easy to protect. Next time will lead it.

Toujours aussi beau!

Took a fall on a .5 towards the end of the main crack in the context of a course. One of the best crack I've climbed.

Very sustained.

Still feel hard!

After my first piece (which was a poor choice) popped, I lost my head for leading this.

Lived up to its reputation. Excellent.

Good sustained climbing. First 2-3 meters are harder to protect since the crack is thinner and the slab is more polished. After that the whole crack is a solid number 1 and 2, with bomber foot jams. The slab to the left gets better as well with more features. Right ankle hurts like a bitch towards the last 1/4 of the route.

In terms of gear, I used .5 and .75 at the beginning, and then switched to 2s and towards the end went back to 1s and 75s. There was a 3 in the middle right before or after the 2s. At the end there's more of the .3-.5 range. DOuble rack definetely recommanded, I think I even had triples from .75 to 2. Maybe if 5.8 is easy for you it's doable with a single? Idk. I think doubles in the .75 to 2 is needed nevertheless.

Went more smoothly than I expected, especially after how rough Krakabra felt.

Always happy to get this clean on lead.

Great crack climb!

Always a tough lead.

Sustained climbing, so always nice to get this clean on lead.

Superb, wonderfuly protected and varied crack.

Wet!!!!! eats Camalot #2

Got the red point on my 2nd lead attempt. No particular move is, really, harder than 5.7 or so, but it is continuously sustained at that level for most of the climb, and far harder if you're not comfortable with crack techniques.

Sustained is the word. Climbed with a cracked rib

Long and sustained at the grade. But, protects really well.

Need to work my jams some more.