Ascents of The Gates of Janus

This felt extremely spicy using a single rack. Used both my 0.75 and 1 friends in the first 6 metres, rendering the second half (and bascially the whole crack) effectively unprotected. The whole line is mega and not bad, albeit engaging on this ascent

Simply stellar!

Incredible! Probably the best, most consistent easy crack in the mountains. I’d say it even outclasses The Eternity.

More climbing than you expect, and some perfect jambing from loose fingers to perfect hands.

Beautiful route. Got to the roof with no gear left that would fit - had to downclimb and lower off. Second try, backcleaned a red & green totem for the top and cruised it.

Absolutely incredible

Vastly underprepared gear wise. Used my only .75, 1, 2 in the first part of the crack and bailed after realising it’s the same size the whole way.

Bailed in the scary wind -_-

The top was spicier than i remember. Save a green and a red for the top.

golden hour! sunset climb some drops of rain whilst we were at the anchor

thisclimb>firebug

So much fun! Good jams, stemming and laybacking

Checking gear

Awesome climb and definitely worth a crack 😉

Did this without knowing about loose block, can't say I noticed it?

That roof is a bit tricky especially if you already pumped from trying to place a shitty hex

Beautiful little line. I always forget how nervy the bulge is.

Only did pitch 1. Definitely old school grading! The initial layback part was quite tiring and ate up 1s and 2s. Ended up making very liberal use of recycling cams to maintain the desired level of protection...

Happy to finally get up it all, even with a few rests. Definitely old school grading! Great climb.

Climb of the day! Laybacked all the way to small rooflet. Eats up .75s, 1s & 2s. P2 isn't too bad, quite enjoyed it and was worth doing to avoid some of the walk out.

Repeat

Wow, terrific, terrifyingly strenuous (for me - new to jamming) laybacking and jamming up this beautiful corner. Barely preserved the redpoint then did a much more elegant lap on second imitating Nat's proper foot jams. Terrific pitch. Didn't do P2.

Second cleaning the route. Got the lay back this time but rested on the rope before going into some of the nicest jamming I've gotten to climb.

Need to come back and lead it but as it stands, I'd say this is the best crack I've tried in the Blueys.

Started well but fell on the lay back moves. Needed to commit to it more to get the feet to stick. Was nice to have my first trad lead fall on some bomber gear.

Lowered off to swap with Anton Korsun as we were low on time.

I hold my bags of sand nearly and dearly, because if everything is sandbagged, then nothing is! And where's the fun in that? But for this I'll make an exception.

Or maybe it was that I took one 2 and nothing larger for the top 10 meters of 2-3 sized jamming 🙊🙉🙈 Yea, don't do that.

Even on second, I found this quite strenuous. Intended to jam but my feet were slightly too large and ended up laybacking. A little delicate at the rooflet but fortunately easy to hand jam the whole way