Ascents of Banished For Infidelity

Definitely deserves more stars. First 2 pitches are good on their own, and the 3rd is the money. Probs best to rap off here - we went up the 4th before deciding the stuff on Insurrection Wall would be a nicer use of our time.

First time that I climbed the last two pitches and the 24 variant.. Idk about p6 - it's very wandery and chossy and a pain to abseil from. I would - like last time - finish after p4 and abseil back down.

Lots of bushbashing and route finding with this climb. Higher grades felt easier and lower grades felt harder than what they are marked as. Had a fun time with the rappel

Loved pitches 2 and 3 (💪) , and the chimney on pitch 4! Pitch 6 had a fun very short chimney, but it was a pain to rap back down the route (ropes hard to pull off the top).

Nice rock and fun pitches! That crux pitch is epic!

Advisable not to abseil pitch by pitch, super gnarly and sketchy! Wasn't fun! Recommended twin ropes 100%... Took 3hrs and lots of sketchy moves to find anchors. Def recommend twin ropes!

Advisable not to abseil pitch by pitch, super gnarly and sketchy! Wasn't fun! Recommended twin ropes 100%... Took 3hrs and lots of sketchy moves to find anchors. Def recommend twin ropes!

Very cool, big exposure, scary but rewarding. Definitely want to come back and lead the 20

Epic third pitch!

Fun route up often uninspiring rock. A hung up rope on the rappel down Airtime made for a lame end to the day. Hitch cord was the MVP — asymmetric prusiks rock!

Fun overhang with lots of holds

We only climbed p1-4; p5 & 6 sound like a hassle and not worth it. p2-4 were real fun! All routes are nicely bolted (no risky run outs), 2-3 cruxy exposed moves on p3, but all well protected.

We used an 80 m rope; abseiling without issues; (make sure to rap down p4 closer to the 24 than the 17, otherwise you might get stuck), we used the anchor of Leaving on a Jet Plan (straight down p2 instead of traversing over to first anchor of Banished). Sun til about 12.30. Great day!

Nice route. Not as complicated a rap as it was made out to be.. maybe just avoid rapping down the 17 variant of pitch 4 and go left down the 24 instead.

Fun day out with good company. Awesome to see tibro from another perspective. Some good pitches in the mix.

Made an early start hoping to beat the heat and although we lucked out with cloud coverage and a good breeze, our early arrival meant a very damp first pitch from showers during the evening.

The black lichen of pitch 1 was like climbing wet glass and required some French free climbing for the first three bolts. Beyond the tree line was nice and dry, particularly after the sun hit. I'll certainly be back to retry the first pitch in the dry, as it seemed like it would otherwise be enjoyable.

The route was climbed using a pair of 60m doubles, clipped as twins. We descended via Airtime Over Pumicestone without issue.

Pitch notes:

1. Avoid if damp

2. Loose blocks are perched just to the right of the line as you reach the white headwall.

3. The rock straight off the belay, particularly to the right, is very friable. Be cautious of what you commit your weight to. The anchor at the top of this pitch is obscured from view as you exit the cave. You will need to trend back right after pulling over it. The crux of this pitch is not within the cave itself, nor exiting it, but getting above the lip of the roof. At 183cm I found it to be no harder than Ross Miller Route's crux pitch at 19, but my 153cm second suggested otherwise.

4. The chimney is fun! Beware the bee hive beyond the chimney. You can skirt around it quite readily.

5. Very straightforward and much easier than 16 in my opinion.

6. Wedged / resting blocks sit just above the belay, watch what you pull on!

I really enjoyed the 3rd pitch, even though I stuffed the onsight by grabbing a draw when I really didn't need to. Ha ha. Great exposed climbing on that pitch. We only climbed 4 pitches though. One day I'll do the entire route. It's a shame this climb isn't setup for a better descent - took a bit of stuffing about to get off it.

Great route - however on the Crux of the 24 pitch (5th draw) we pulled a left hand pocket off the wall - felt more like a 25/26 now - regrading may be needed - we traversed to do the 17 variant -bees active but not aggressive on that pitch - great day out!

Faark. Climbing was fine, the 20 is outstanding, but DO NOT attempt the rap with a single 60m rope. Or if you do, be ready for an epic and take note of the following things...

1st Rap: Basically what you have is a really shit line for the rope with heaps of snag hazards (rocks trees cracks etc) and multiple redirects. After setting ours up with great care, we found ourselves dangling 3m above the anchors of the 4th pitch. Great. Not wanting to solo downclimb on dodgy rock, we climbed back up to see if there was more direct way to route the rope and eek out a few meters. Halfway up we also realized our rope was stuck. So we climbed up, unstuck it, and saw that there might be a more direct line for the rope, but it required a big traverse, more snag hazards, and the risk of a big swing if the rope flicked over whatever you were using to redirect... We ended up rapping and traversing back to the top of the 5th pitch instead of the 4th.

2nd Rap: Basically just traverse to the right along the climb, rap down into some bushes, and traverse to the anchors (top of 4th pitch). Don't ping off and swing!! At this point in our adventure the Sun was setting.

3rd Rap: The description says to trend left but also claims the abseil is pretty much a straight drop... It's not. TREND LEFT and note that the anchors are pretty hidden in a giant pocket in the rock. If you rap straight down you'll be stuck on an overhang with the end of your rope dangling into nothingness. You can't hear shit on this pitch (both climbing & rapping) so take phones or a radio.

4th Rap: Description is good

5th Rap: I only had a foot of rope left when we got to the midway chains... So make sure you set up with the exact middle of your 60m rope in the rings.

6th Rap: Sweet sweet ground, we hit it at 7:30pm. We started climbing at 12:50pm and got to the top at 4pm.

Oh, there is also an angry falcon and a bees nest around the 4th pitch.

Bringing a 70m rope would better suit the rap adventure. But honestly, the 5th/6th pitches are basically scrambles on shit rock, you're better off climbing 1-4 and rapping off. Even after unstucking our rope once on pitch 6, we felt it snag / unsnag at least twice on the shit pull down... And this is a real crap climb to rap off in the dark!

Actually though, the 20 is outstanding!!