Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fri 23rd Feb 2024 - Fruehauf | ||||||
22 | ★ General Benefit — 2 attempts | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Hard. Forgot helmet, didn’t feel like leading these spaced bolted climbs.
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Wed 21st Feb 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Bulging Buttress | ||||||
22 |
★★★ Heat Pump
1
Good climbing in its own right
2
Spent ages in the middle shaking out and working out what to do. A few big reaches/ dead points in the first half sapped my energy | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thu 15th Feb 2024 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Coastal Cliffs Harlequin Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Beaman's Route Direct | 25m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tried more layback on first go which was possible but very strenuous and then more conventional jamming second go. Nice to be back on rock after 3 weeks off.
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Wed 24th Jan 2024 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Northern Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★★ Boys Games — 2 attempts | 30m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Didn’t find this any harder than the 2 routes to the right ( though did a silly slip below crux).
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Thu 14th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Barley Walls | ||||||
22 | ★★ Snuggles and the Dragon | 30m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, didn’t have wires with us. Fun route.
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Wed 13th Dec 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Barley Walls | ||||||
22 | ★★ Careless Fingernicker — 2 attempts | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, needed a bit of a brush. Left hand crack glove/ tape useful for me. Unfortunately I had brought 2 right hand gloves ( duh!)
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Mon 11th Dec 2023 - Fingal Gym | ||||||
22 | ★ Go Go Gadget | 18m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Shares a lot of holds with route to right
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Mon 4th Dec 2023 - Chapman's Hill | ||||||
West wall | ||||||
V3 | ★★ Saturnine | 4m | ★ Good | |||
It’s nice and clean now
|
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V3 | ★ L’Esfinge | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Nice balance feet and tiny holds
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Mon 27th Nov 2023 - Chapman's Hill | ||||||
Crugs boulder | ||||||
V3 | ★ UDK | 5m | ★ Good | |||
Nice linkupof crimprails across face.
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Sat 18th Nov 2023 - Chapman's Hill | ||||||
Sunnyvale | ||||||
V3 | ★★ Shit Tuesday | 4m | ||||
I just did stuff and consulted guide later, again this line seemed nice. Nice area and surprisingly nice rock, good work on the development- and some good opportunities for a clean up of bogan rubbish.
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Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Obed National Park | ||||||
Lilly Bluff Left Side | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Loung Lizard — 2 attempts | 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt Australian 23. Very cruxy, Had to work hard second go, the steep crimp section is quite full on
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Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Gray's Branch Region Left Flank | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Hen-ry! | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Lead it with some falls around 3rd bolt. Then clean from 4 th bolt and too scared to fall. Repeated clean on TR as didn’t fancy the fall around arete again. A bit like a Wards hill first wall route on crimpy ironstone- so not worth travelling the world for.
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | ||||||
5.11b ~5.11c | ★★ Smore Energy — 2 attempts | 26m | ||||
Nice climb, 4 distinct sections with hands free rests. 11c on Mountain project and in guide book.
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Tue 19th Sep 2023 - Arrampicodromo Di Mese | ||||||
Parking | ||||||
6c | Nuevo C | 25m | ||||
Well I top roped through the crux with a high first clip, though took a couple of goes. Feels a bit contrived away from some slightly better holds.
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Sottosassa | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ E il diedro — 3 attempts | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had to stray onto the 7a to get the bottom section clean which included a full on dead point. Super hard moves. The second half dihedral was more grade 21.
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Tue 5th Sep 2023 - La Falesia Dimenticata | ||||||
6c |
★★ Il buon caffè
1
4b
10m
Warm up he stemming muscles
2
6c
12m
Burly but ok once I had found some of the holds | 22m, 14 | ||||
6c+ | ★★ Number one | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pocketssss, just lovely and the new shoes are feeling better
|
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Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Val d'Algone | ||||||
6c | ★★ Lo scorpione | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice varied and technical route, no real sting in the tail, but a few of cruxy sequences below
|
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Thu 31st Aug 2023 - Breguzzo | ||||||
6c | ★★ Bagoi | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The Sandinista of Breguzzo, about 5m overhanging. My crack glove tried to reject doing a sports route, I got spiders down my t shirt and there was some type of poo in some of the pockets. Great journey!
|
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Wed 16th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Finnvika | ||||||
6c/c+ | ★ Mono Bongo | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Climbing in the Watagans has made me so used to sandbagged slabs that I really didn’t question that I wasn’t on the 6 a+ we thought we were doing (non updated digital Rockfax) despite a hard move involving a mono and some tenuous footers. Did clip anchors of 6 a+ on the way because they are in reach before going to this routes anchors above. A little too close to the route to the right at the last bolt.
|
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Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Lofoten | ||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Svenskeveggen | ||||||
7 | ★★★ Snickar glädje — 2 attempts | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Just lovely. The boulder start looks tricky to protect, maybe a wire on a stick. When we got there a woman was trying and did it on top rope and was in raptures which was great to see which convinced us to try. Took a couple of goes to sort short person starting beta, then hung on all the way up the crack.
|
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Wed 9th Aug 2023 - Ofoten | ||||||
Narvik Haugfjellet Kjerringveggen | ||||||
7 | ★★ Den Lille — 2 attempts | 9m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short but very much liked it, bouldery the cracky
|
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7 ~7- | ★ Adjöss och tack för fisken | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Presuming this is the rebolted ex trad route left of Jeppenruta. Not too hard.
|
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Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Himmeldalen | ||||||
Main west | ||||||
7 | ★ St. Pavel | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Really enjoying the rock, looks pretty crappy but rewards technique. Reminds of stuff around wanaka
|
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Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Hoppy's Cave The Terrace | ||||||
22 | ★★ Route with a high first bolt and goes through roof | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, if this is the one I think it’s easier than 22, more like 20
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22 | ★★ Just kick it | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt with Mel
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Sun 18th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Turkey Walls | ||||||
22 | ★★ Turquosine | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
A bit sandy after no ascents for years, did all moves after a brush.
|
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Sat 10th Jun 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Smear Slabs | ||||||
22 | ★ A Bridge Too Far | 16m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, though I did sneak in a bridge up high
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Sun 28th May 2023 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face The Ramparts | ||||||
22 | ★ Waynes Route | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Wed 10th May 2023 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
22 | ★ Putting shame in your game | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
With the proximity of the trees I no longer feel comfortable leading this. Feels contrived, due to how close tree is to cliff
|
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Sat 6th May 2023 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
Middle Earth | ||||||
22 | ★★ The Stairs of Cirith Ungol — 2 attempts | 11m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt. A fair bit of dirt on holds, I think we need to separate climbing and abseiling in this area
|
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Sat 25th Mar 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Black Site | ||||||
22 Easy | ★★ Spook Flake | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I didn’t think it was hard except the reachy bit straight off the ledge if you can’t reach the top of the flake. Both halves have nice moves. A bit too much mizzle coming in to do more today, but nice spot .
|
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Wed 15th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
22 R | Friendless | 40m | Average | |||
Personal top rope grade 19, probably feels worse on lead. We did the start but finished through roof to right
|
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Fri 24th Feb 2023 - Mystery cliffs | ||||||
Zone 1 | ||||||
22 | ★ Kick the Waves | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
FFA, the last thing I did before the back went ping while camping later that night.
|
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Tue 14th Feb 2023 - Blackwood Rocks | ||||||
American Woman Area | ||||||
22 ~21 | ★★ Elendil — 2 attempts | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I thought easier than drop zone, and liked it more. A little tricky to on-site I guess.
|
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Sat 31st Dec 2022 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
Middle Earth | ||||||
22 | ★★ Hand Shandy | 11m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Bolts need rejigging on this
|
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22 | ★★ The Stairs of Cirith Ungol | 11m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, pretty humid day
|
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Thu 29th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Historic Wells | ||||||
22 | ★ Scooter Fun — 2 attempts | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Couple of enhanced holds it seems, pretty goey crimping without great feet off ledge, especially my first attempt when my belayer mistakenly mistook a power grunt dead point for a sign I was falling
|
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Wed 28th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Heathcliff | ||||||
22 Easy | ★★ Kate Bush | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Start pretty thin but ok. Top easy.
|
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Sun 18th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Girl in the Mirror - Mean Streak Linkup | 45m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Have seconded GITM before. Start better than I remember, some good moves between nice rests. Did as one long pitch
|
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Fri 9th Dec 2022 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
Middle Earth | ||||||
22 | ★★ The Stairs of Cirith Ungol — 2 attempts | 11m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 laps. Hadn’t been in a harness for 13 days. Unheard of!
|
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Thu 8th Dec 2022 - Dudley | ||||||
Northern End | ||||||
V3 | ★ Captain Hook | 3m | ||||
Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
22 | ★★ Thin Time | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Second go. My commitment levels were low instead time around getting to second bolt.
|
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Sat 15th Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Sunbath | ||||||
22 | ★ Wok Hay | 15m | Average | |||
Go the kneebar
|
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Sun 2nd Oct 2022 - Orroral area | ||||||
Booroomba Rocks South Buttress Integral face | ||||||
22 | ★★ No Beans for Bonzo | 45m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice slab and super grippy rock. Not sure about lead on spaced bolts
|
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Tue 20th Sep 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Wade's World | ||||||
22 | ★★ Pulling Punches | 32m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Apart from the start, a nice route but with spaced bolting post crux when you are getting pumped
|
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Mon 5th Sep 2022 - Berrys Head | ||||||
Ben's Backyard | ||||||
V3 | ★★ Cupcake | |||||
Retreated upwards
|
||||||
V3 | ★★ Indi | ★ Good | ||||
Enjoyed this, felt at limit of my span
|
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Mon 22nd Aug 2022 - Berrys Head | ||||||
Missed Opportunity Block | ||||||
V3 | ★ Slopers | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Took me a while to commit to the top out
|
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V3 | ★ The alcove | 3m | ||||
The exit right would require more commitment and spotters, I chickened out left which was still fun
|
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Wed 10th Aug 2022 - Kwiamble National Park | ||||||
MacIntyre Falls Opposite Falls Lookout Level 1 | ||||||
22 | ★ Alternative News | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Thin start with marginal gear possible after a few metres. The left finish awaits
|
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Sun 17th Jul 2022 - South West Rocks | ||||||
Arakoon Mermaid Pools | ||||||
V3 | ★★ White Pointer | |||||
Sat 16th Jul 2022 - South West Rocks | ||||||
Arakoon Mermaid Pools | ||||||
V3 | ★ Pip | ★ Good | ||||
Lovely finger crack
|
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Fri 8th Jul 2022 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Beehive Area | ||||||
22 | ★★ Horse breath | 17m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, was worried it may be wet but it was pretty good.
|
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Mon 6th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face The Ramparts | ||||||
22 | ★ Waynes Route | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 4th Jun 2022 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point Vine Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Donkey Dong | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice steep thugging. Feels 22 after figuring out where the holds are, but took a shot to work out.
|
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Thu 2nd Jun 2022 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point Alley Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Smiling | 16m | Average | |||
Doesn’t add much, and doesn’t feel much harder than the 18
|
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Wed 18th May 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Echo Crag | ||||||
22 | ★★ Honeycomb | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Having seconded this a long time ago cleanly, I didn’t give it proper respect and botched the hand sequence on the Alzheimers OS attempt. Then got rained on twice,though fortunately the lower part of the route stayed mostly dry
|
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Tue 17th May 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Hellspite Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Hellspite | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Led up to crux ( again) but not sure what to do, go right or left, but with a bit of beta spray managed it on top rope. It’s all about a super high right foot cam. Oh well, it partially clears up the old dog….
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Fri 29th Apr 2022 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★ Alex's Thing | 40m, 6 | Average | |||
Not that good, contrived, rather ugly bolts
|
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Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
22 | ★★ Driller Direct | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
The start of the 26 feels about 23 at my height as I can’t reach the slot on the available feet and have to compress my way up to the jug off super high right foot. I guess I climbed more to the left of the bolts then for a while, not sure it adds much, may have just been better to rebolt Tour de France. Took a few goes and a fair bit of brushing off dirt to figure the start.
|
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Sat 9th Apr 2022 - Fortescue Bay | ||||||
The Moai | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Blunt instrument/Burning spear P2 Link-Up | 35m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Been on both halves before, a fantastic route.
|
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Mon 4th Apr 2022 - Lowdina | ||||||
22 | ★★ Plastiacine Thylacine | 25m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Dogged it, chalked up all the holds then seconded to clean as darkness approached. Quite a lot of long moves and I elected to do the traverse to the top rack at foot level rather than dislocate my shoulder
|
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Fri 1st Apr 2022 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
The Sunny Side Offal Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★★ Free Passage | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Shame about the ledge at half height. Great climb in 2 parts. I actually found part 2 as bad as hard as part 1. Body to left and right foot on flake before going up with hands is note to self along with tape/ crack glove left hand….
|
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Thu 31st Mar 2022 - Mersey Cliffs | ||||||
22 | ★★ Mumble Bee | 17m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had placed draws on way down from KCS but hadn’t inspected moves. Some good crimping
|
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Mon 21st Mar 2022 - Killiecrankie | ||||||
Main Cliff Central Cliffs | ||||||
22 | FA ★★ Bird Noises | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. If it wasn't for the start it would be classic, still damn good, amazing rock, and solid lead by Dave
|
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Mon 21st Feb 2022 - Sand River | ||||||
Colosseum Area Eldorado | ||||||
22 | ★ Leia | 15m | ★ Good | |||
It’s ok, though I was berating the equipper for the ground fall run out to the last bolt, but realised I had missed the second last bolt on the way down. Sorry.
|
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Thu 17th Feb 2022 - Fruehauf | ||||||
22 | ★ General Benefit | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Tue 8th Feb 2022 - Lake Huntley | ||||||
22 | ★★ Sea of Mirrors | 130m | ★ Good | |||
Just the top pitch, would get very good with a couple more bolts, the run out on the slabs is stupid, but maybe if you can do the 26 onsight it’s ok. Was further around than we thought, took a while to find, but the faded cloth around a tree across the track to denote the turn off is still there
|
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Fri 4th Feb 2022 - Sand River | ||||||
Fire Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Glowing Embers | 18m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★ Lucifer Direct | 18m | ||||
Sat 22nd Jan 2022 - Bulahdelah | ||||||
Hoppy's Cave The Terrace | ||||||
22 | ★★ Route with a high first bolt and goes through roof | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A few routes on our way up to paddle the Wilson R
|
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22 | ★★ Just kick it | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 13th Jan 2022 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
Bouldering Waterfall Bouldering Area Waterfall Wall | ||||||
V3 | Turtle Power | 3m | ||||
Sun 9th Jan 2022 - South West Rocks | ||||||
Arakoon The Crows Nest | ||||||
V3 | ★★ New Gold | 3m | ||||
V3 | ★ Old Gold | 3m | ||||
I’m presuming this is a sit start, otherwise it seems very easy
|
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Sat 1st Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Newnes Plateau Gardens of Stone State Conservation Area Bung Crag Niall Blair Testimonial wall | ||||||
22 | FA ★ Cuddle-dog | 14m | ★ Good | |||
FFA. My recollection is it’s a little easier than the route to the R, so I will give it a 22. Fun route.
|
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Thu 30th Dec 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area The Freezer | ||||||
22 | ★★ SWALK | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
|
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Sun 19th Dec 2021 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Sheer Tenacity | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Alzheimer’s flash
|
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Mon 13th Dec 2021 - Bouddi National Park | ||||||
Bay side Boulders Dorito Boulder | ||||||
V3 | Nachos | |||||
A bit more thrutchy topping out this side
|
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V3 | ★ Original | |||||
V3 | ★ Spicy Heatwave | |||||
Wed 17th Nov 2021 - Smoky Cape | ||||||
V3 | ★★ Flake traverse | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Such nice features
|
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Wed 1st Sep 2021 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face The Ridge | ||||||
22 | ★★ Reindeer mantlers | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 22nd Aug 2021 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Middle Crag | ||||||
22 | Prickles | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
Wed 18th Aug 2021 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face The Ridge | ||||||
22 | ★★ Reindeer mantlers | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | Slab of Ham | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Not too dirty given its had no traffic for a year
|
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Wed 11th Aug 2021 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face The Ridge | ||||||
22 | ★★ Reindeer mantlers | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
|
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Tue 3rd Aug 2021 - Kwiamble National Park | ||||||
MacIntyre Falls Falls Walls Wilde Wall | ||||||
22 | FA ★★★ Iguazu | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quality moves, some exploding flakes, generally good gear the entire way
|
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22 | ★★ Link it Up | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The start was hard as I couldn’t reach the flake to the left, or the flared hand jam and had to boulder up into it. Worthwhile link up, especially if the 24 slab is proving too hard
|
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Sat 24th Jul 2021 - Mt Ninderry | ||||||
Caves Area | ||||||
22 | ★ Toils Of A Gamescore Bore (Toils Of A Gamescore Whore) | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Second go, missed a key hold first go and pumped out
|
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Thu 22nd Jul 2021 - Brooyar | ||||||
Point Pure | ||||||
22 | ★★★ The Great Devoid | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super fun, I pretend I don't like this steep stuff
|
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Sun 18th Jul 2021 - Brooyar | ||||||
Golf Ball Boulder | ||||||
22 | ★ Play on Through | 12m, 3 | ||||
I climbed up to the third bolt. It was totally filthy above. I down climbed.
|
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Sun 18th Jul 2021 - Brooyar | ||||||
Hungry Jacks, Home of the Whopper | ||||||
22 | ★★ What a Whopper | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Yep a monster move for the short. Consider importing a small rock onto the ledge after the mantle.
|
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Wed 14th Jul 2021 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Erg Direct | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Hadnt done the contrived start before. Found it easier than the bit where I have to launch at arete.
|
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Tue 13th Jul 2021 - Girraween | ||||||
Sphinx Rock | ||||||
22 | ★★ The Queen of Spades | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice delicate climbing
|
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Wed 7th Jul 2021 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face The Ramparts | ||||||
22 | ★ Waynes Route | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Quite a nice route despite the Watagans rock. Easier than space ape. A 0.5 below roof and 0.75 above last bolt in pocket
|
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Sat 3rd Jul 2021 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Smear Slabs | ||||||
22 | ★ A Bridge Too Far | 16m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 26th Jun 2021 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face The Wild West | ||||||
22 | ★ Click bait | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, nice technical moves mostly
|