Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 27th Nov 2011 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Cheap Wine Wall | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Boston | 60m | ||||
Sat 19th Nov 2011 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Triple Cracks | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Middle Crack | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10b 5.10 | ★★ Grass Crack | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 | ★★ Upper Grass Crack | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.8 | ★★ Owl Crack | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 13th Nov 2011 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Orange Peel Area | ||||||
5.5 | ★ Jack Knife | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.6 | ★★ Cave Crack | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 12th Nov 2011 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Back Wall | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Sweat | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.10a | ★★ Fly on a Windshield | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Love this route.
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Sat 12th Nov 2011 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Frog boulder | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Frog | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tough engaged moves around corner, especially for 10a. Great route.
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Sun 6th Nov 2011 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Freshman Mountain South American Boulders | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ South American Crack | 8m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 6th Nov 2011 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Turkey Peak | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Butter Fingers | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 5th Nov 2011 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Triple Cracks | ||||||
5.4 | ★ Texas Flakes | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 29th Oct 2011 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Kingdom of Zilch | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Texas Treescent | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 15th Oct 2011 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Carnivore Boulders | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ High Octane | 6m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★★ Raw Meat | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 12th Aug 2011 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||||||
Lover's Leap The Hogsback | ||||||
5.4 | ★ Knapsack Crack | 91m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Went back later in the day after simulclimbing it to solo it.
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Fri 12th Aug 2011 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||||||
Lover's Leap West Wall | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ April Fools | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 12th Aug 2011 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||||||
Lover's Leap Lower Buttress | ||||||
5.5 | ★ The Farce | 61m | ★ Good | |||
Thu 11th Aug 2011 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||||||
Lover's Leap The Hogsback | ||||||
5.4 | ★ Knapsack Crack | 91m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thu 11th Aug 2011 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||||||
Lover's Leap East Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Haystack (Haystack Crack) | 130m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Wed 10th Aug 2011 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||||||
Lover's Leap Hogwild Area | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Hogwild | 30m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Wed 10th Aug 2011 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||||||
Lover's Leap East Wall | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Pop Bottle | 130m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.7 5.7 R | ★★★ Bear's Reach | 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mon 8th Aug 2011 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||||||
Lover's Leap Main Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Arctic Breeze | 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 8th Aug 2011 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||||||
Lover's Leap Lower Buttress | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ The Groove | 64m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 7th Aug 2011 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||||||
Lover's Leap Main Wall | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Traveler Buttress | 180m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 6th Aug 2011 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||||||
Lover's Leap Lower Buttress | ||||||
5.7 5.7 R | ★★ Surrealistic Pillar | 91m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 15th May 2011 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Back Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Fly on a Windshield | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climb. Not too bad to get to the bolt if your head is in the right place. It's all there and about 5.8 climbing to the bolt.
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Sun 15th May 2011 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Triple Cracks | ||||||
5.10 | ★★ Grass Crack | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed the 5.7 chimney start to the upper grass crack (5.7)
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Wed 13th Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Rats Alley | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Tarantula | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Beautiful looking wall and a great corner crack. Quite sustained 18 moves with a couple of stemming rests.
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Wed 13th Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★★ Lamplighter | 78m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climbing all the way!
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16 15 | ★ Lady Dihedral | 78m | ★ Good | |||
Transfer into the corner makes the heart pump a little... but without the traffic the lichen dominates making for a cautious ascent when wet
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Tue 12th Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Echo Crag | ||||||
19 | ★★ Touch-Type | 25m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome pitch! So well worth it to get up there. Very much like a Bluey's face climb.
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14 | ★★ Touchstone | 60m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climbing. Did first pitch to gain Touchtype.
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Tue 12th Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Kachoong Area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Kachoong | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Gear in place from previous leaders in group.
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18 | ★★ Golden Echo | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fantastic climb with beautiful moves across wall and out right above the Kachoong roof. Well worth it if you're standing on photo ledge.
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Mon 11th Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Mari | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fantastic climbing. Always worth doing.
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14 | ★★ Megalomaniac | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice warm up for Mari.
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Mon 11th Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★ XI | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Love this climb. Lucky to enjoy the climb without leading it. Thanks Fabi!
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Mon 11th Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
17 17 R | ★★ Checkmate | 85m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Absolutely stunning position on the third pitch. Probably one of the best grade 17 pitches at Araps. Second pitch has instant exposure too.
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Sun 10th Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Tannin | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Just awesome!! Surprised I had the endurance, having not climbed so much in the last year.
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Sun 10th Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
13 | ★★ Horn Piece | 33m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Extremely nice climb with a great "summit" belay. Best way to get up to Red Wall.
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Sun 10th Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★ Tremulo | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun warm up for Dirge and Jen's Roof.
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18 | ★★ Jens roof | 30m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climb, which doesn't really get the traffic it deserves.
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Sat 9th Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress | ||||||
14 | ★★ Mantis | 33m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Looks nasty but it's super fun. Huge holds through mini roof.
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Sat 9th Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae House of Atreus | ||||||
17 | ★★ Surface To Air | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
A climb I always make sure I do when visiting Araps. One of my faves of all time.
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16 13 | ★★ Hell For Leather | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Can't believe I hadn't done it yet. MUCH better than Muldoon and should get a heap more traffic than it does. Take slings for chicken heads.
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Sat 9th Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Muldoon Area | ||||||
13 | ★★★ Muldoon | 42m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Let Fabi take the first pitch, but really, the second pitch is nicer. I actually believe Hell For Leather to be a better climb than Muldoon.
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Fri 8th Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Flinders Lane Area | ||||||
13 | ★ Ivan | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quite the contortionists climb. If you figure out what you need to do with your body the grade diminishes to its supposed grade 13...hmm 15?
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Fri 8th Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Blockbuster Ledge | ||||||
11 | ★★★ Blockbuster | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very very clean climbing. A long pitch too, for full value.
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Fri 8th Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Awesome climbing in one of the most spectacular positions you'll find a climb of this grade. Start is quite hard (read: heady) for the grade
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Fri 8th Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Resignation | 96m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Fantastic climbing. I got the money 3rd pitch. Can't believe I haven't climbed this before.
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Thu 7th Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ The Golden Fleece | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Beautiful moves through the second crux.
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16 | ★ Jason | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quite slick through the crack, which can make it feel harder than 16.
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15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climb, which I always try and do when visiting Araps.
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Thu 7th Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
17 | ★ Crescendo | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Climbed the second pitch after leading the first pitch of Liberetto. Nice combination.
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Thu 7th Apr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
17 16 | ★★ Libretto | 50m | ★ Good | |||
Climbed the first pitch, to then connect to the second pitch of Crescendo. Best way to do them.
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Sun 27th Feb 2011 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Devil's Slide | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Close To The Top | 70m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Did a variation of this by coming in from the boulder on the left. Through the weakness of overlap. Beautiful climbing here. Joined WITHC.
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5.6 | ★ Harder Than It Looks | 80m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Nice climb to warm up on or for beginners to try multi-pitch. You could probably link the first two pitches. Rapping requires two ropes.
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Tue 9th Nov 2010 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Buzzard's Roost Southeast Face | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ eat | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tue 9th Nov 2010 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Buzzard's Roost Southwest Face | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Bush Crack | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.8 | ★★ Cubes | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 23rd Oct 2010 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Back Wall | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Sweat | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sustained 5.7 I reckon.
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Sat 23rd Oct 2010 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Triple Cracks | ||||||
5.10 | ★★ Grass Crack | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got it clean on TR, first ever time on it. Climbed as part of my Granite Gripper scorecard.
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Sat 23rd Oct 2010 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Orange Peel Area | ||||||
5.6 | ★★ cave crack | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.5 | ★ Jack Knife | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 3rd Sep 2010 - Las Conchas | ||||||
Cattle Call Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Unkown (next to Ow Now) | 11m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 10th Oct 2009 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Back Wall | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Sweat | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 | ★★ Sweat | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very sustained 5.6... pretty much all the way. It's 5.6 in the guide, but I reckon it may be closer to 5.7.
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Fri 20th Mar 2009 - Red Rock | ||||||
Pine Creek Canyon Bridge Mountain Spectrum Area | ||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Birdland | 150m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Beautiful climb! Watch rope snags pulling your ropes on the upper pitches. 70m rope is necessary on this one if you're gonna use one rope!
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Thu 15th Mar 2007 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Orange Peel Area | ||||||
5.5 | ★ Jack Knife | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.6 | ★★ Cave Crack | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 14th Mar 2007 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Motorboat Rock | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Can Opener | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 21st Oct 2006 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Buzzard's Roost East Face | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Little Feat | 7m | ||||
Sat 21st Oct 2006 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Back Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Deep Prok | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 21st Oct 2006 - Enchanted Rock | ||||||
Buzzard's Roost East Face | ||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Fear of Flying | 60m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thu 1st Jun 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Bridge Area Crags Maranatha Area | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Maranatha | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thu 1st Jun 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Zag | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 | ★★ Easily Flakey | 85m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10b | ★★★ Angel's Arete | 18m | ||||
Wed 31st May 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Diamond Point | ||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Remission | 26m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 31st May 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Slabs | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Rat's Alley | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Wed 12th Oct 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces The Watchtower | ||||||
9 | ★★★ Arachnus | 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome climb and great exposure at the grade.
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Tue 11th Oct 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climb with fiddly pro in places.
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Sat 1st Oct 2005 - Redcliffs | ||||||
Mythologica | ||||||
19 | ★★ Mythologica | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 1st Oct 2005 - Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||||||
Gibraltar Peak Nailbiter Spike | ||||||
16 | ★★ Nail Biter | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 1st Oct 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
12 | ★★★ Bard | 120m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sun 21st Aug 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Gladiator | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quite a technical crux section. 10-Oct-04 Hugh fell 5m on this middle part. Finally got on this climb to lead it and found it a relative breeze.
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Mon 1st Aug 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Devils Dihedral | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Absolutely brilliant climbing, that never relents in both class or its grade. There are a few rests but it still tests your endurance. I thought I wasn't up for it, but figured what the hell.... ended up cruising it.... made me feel GOOD!!
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21 | ★★★ Conquistador | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Incredible climb. I really need to lead this before the end of the year. It's all there and just classy climbing the whole way. I bit tricky turning the corner into the fist jams. You also have to just motor through the overhanging crack through the good holds. Great climb!! Seconded Jamie.
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Sun 17th Jul 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
16 | ★★★ Satan's Smokestack | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very thrutchy but it seems to grow on you the further you go. The move outside the wide crack down low is a bit hairy. Worth doing but I wouldn't rave about it.
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20 | ★★ Footloose and Falling Free | 11m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Brilliant pumpy climbing with decent pro. Aliens are useful in the thin parallel crack through the crux.
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19 | ★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really very nice. Plenty of good gear and did the whole climb with only wires and one hex. Well worth the effort.
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Sun 26th Jun 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
21 | ★★ Warlock DS | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I reckon it's 20. Difficult, but not 21.
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17 16 | ★★ Micron | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climb, but not worth three stars. The start is a grovel and the great moves only last 10m. Worth doing though. Funny I haven't done it already.
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18 | ★★ Warlock | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A great line and I reckon only worthy if it's done direct. Why would you climb a great line by using the start of another climb? Gotta be done direct and I reckon solid 20 start.
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Sun 26th Jun 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★ Egotistical Pinapple | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seconded Chris and enjoyed it quite a lot, except the difficult start. One day I'll give it a go on lead.
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15 | Pop-up Toaster | 6m | Don't Bother | |||
Only reason we did this was to fill in the remainder of the day after being on EP. Fairly crappy and a worthless top out. Rap off the big tree above to the right.
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Sat 18th Jun 2005 - Redcliffs | ||||||
Send in the Clowns | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Big Top | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very nice, airy finish to SITC, although I climbed a new variant start on the far left arete to gain Big Top.
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