Ascents in Grampians as various tick types by Paul Kinnane

Warm-up. First time at the Guardhouse. Really nice spot. From the carpark, walk 9mins towards Sentinel Cave, then turn left at the cairn and follow cairns to the cliff. Total walk-in time was 30 mins.

Short, powerful and reachy. The crux move (over the lip) is great.

Short and powerful with some awkward moves.

A few burns on this today. What an incredible route! All moves done, but there is a hard move at the last bolt that I know I will punt off a few times. Would be mega-classic if not for the ugly 19 you have to climb first

Not an obvious line. Go up 2 or 3 bolts, then traverse left and up, then up the arete heading rightwards and clip a bolt way out right - I think that's the actual line. Perhaps this was bolted to go straight up the slab but it didn't go? The tricky move at the end is great. The 23 extension looks really good, and is on the ticklist for the next trip.

Sustained crimping

2 burns. Couldn't work out the long move at the half way point (assume there is a sneaky kneebar or heal hook). The finish sequence is a bit of a finger shredder. Best to do this on the last day of a trip, and not the first!

Seriously pumpy climbing. In fact I wouldn't even call the second half of the route 'climbing'. It's more like desperately throwing for holds hoping you hit the right one.

Putting the draws on Goldmine.

Great moves. Second go.

Powerful moves on pockets. Easy for 25 (but probably too hard for 24). Ticked first go after inspecting the moves lowering off the warm-up route.

Pumpy endurance route with 2 tricky sections.

Great moves moving across the wall. A lot of fun.

A good reminder that just because the guidebook says something is well bolted, it doesn't mean it is well bolted! The 3rd bolt is going to be a challenge for some people.

Had one burn on this out of curiosity, and it is very good! Techie moves on underclings/slidepulls for the first 3 bolts, then a long, pumpy traverse to the anchors. Would not recommend the 21 access route as it is a bit finger-snapping when not warmed up. Will be back for it at some point, but will abseil in

Repeat

Messy ascent

Originally ticked this route 20 years ago and thought the start was pretty hard back then. The start is still hard!

Easy climbing to the half way break, then it's on until the chains. Took a few burns to unlock the crux, then it went first pop.

Cool little route with desperate moves after the lip of the cave.

Interesting and challenging climbing all the way to the headwall.

Mis-read the crux and blew the onsite.

Actual tick a couple of years ago

Actual tick a couple of years ago

Great route. Got a bit of everything - slab, roof, layback.

Sharp, crimpy, and pumpy. Thought it was harder than the 22 (Silvertop).

Loved this route. Substantially nicer climbing, and easier, than the 21 to the right (Magnetic Dolphins)

Really great moves on this route - and a bolt just when you need one.

OK climbing, but the bolts protect the easy moves, and leave you run out at the crux, which didn't make much sense. Ended up using some average wires to fill the gap.

Thin moves on tiny holds - couldn't motivate myself to sacrifice the skin required to tick this. Great send by the slab-master Joanna.

Warm-up.

Easy crux to a tough crux. Shares some holds with Nasty Nukes, so feels a bit contrived.

Great route but a difficult crux to read onsite. Thought this was harder than the 21 left of it.

Desperate moves past the second bolt.

Amazing climb, with a nasty last move on pumped arms.