Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Tue 28th Dec 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully | ||||||
24 | ★★ Astral Plane | 15m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really great climbing the whole way. Crux is a bit desperate.
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Mon 27th Dec 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area | ||||||
15 | ★ The Venus Trap | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Good climb out of the sun.
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Sun 26th Dec 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Rats Alley | ||||||
19 | ★★ Rat's Alley | 25m, 1 | Average | |||
Wasn't really any gear on the climb to clean - so more like a top-rope really. Another climb I will never lead.
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Sat 11th Dec 2004 - Summerday Valley | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
11 | ★★ Waxman | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
An easy, short classic! Even in the rain.
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Thu 18th Nov 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Going For The One | 30m | ★ Good | |||
More warming-up...
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18 | Get Your Bloody Fingers Out | 10m | Average | |||
Warm-up route...
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Fri 12th Nov 2004 - Morialta | ||||||
The Boulder Bridge | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Geronimo's Cadillac | 17m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Got it on the last attempt of the day. Originally T/roped 21/6/04.
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Mon 1st Nov 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Rats Alley | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Tarantula | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bridging isn't my gig, so I found this tough going.
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Sat 30th Oct 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Feral Chicken | 20m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
A bit wet at the crux. Don't fall before the first bolt!
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Mon 25th Oct 2004 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Spurt Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ Lord of the Jerks | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
1st shot after T/R'ing about 12 months ago.
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23 | I'd Rather Be Wanking | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Nice crimpy moves to the 3rd bolt, then a traverse thru the sandpit.
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23 | ★ Pussy Galore | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Should have on-sighted, but got tangled up on the mantle.
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Sun 24th Oct 2004 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Spurt Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Dial-A-Lama | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A much nicer climb since it's been rebolted. Balancy crux up high.
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Sat 23rd Oct 2004 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Spurt Wall | ||||||
22 | ★ Spurting Mildly | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
A tad greasy thru the crux.
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Mon 4th Oct 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★ Femroc | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very tricky mantle. Great fun.
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Sun 3rd Oct 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress | ||||||
19 18 R | ★★ XI | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Easy moves for the grade, but the pro was fiddly at the crux
|
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Sat 2nd Oct 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Flinders Lane Area | ||||||
17 | ★ Scorpion Direct Start | 14m | Don't Bother | |||
Horrible undergraded jamming. Harder than Hyena!
|
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Sat 2nd Oct 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque | ||||||
16 | ★ Lobboff | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Better than it looks - and hard for 16.
|
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Wed 22nd Sep 2004 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Buandik Area Millennium Caves | ||||||
20 20 R | ★ Kidney Stoned | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
More than a "novelty" route.
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23 | ★★ The Floating Cloud | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I took a little while to work out the last move.
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Tue 21st Sep 2004 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Mt Fox Area Muline Crag | ||||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Don't Bother | |||
What were they thinking when they bolted this???? Very ordinary climb.
|
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Mon 20th Sep 2004 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Van Diemen's Land | ||||||
24 | ★★ Cosmic Psycho | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Big move between the first and second bolt.
|
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Tue 31st Aug 2004 - Railay | ||||||
Thaiwand Wall | ||||||
6a+ 7a | ★★ Circus Oz (Circus Oz p1 / Lord Of The Thais p1) | 120m, 41 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thought it wa run-out, but realised on the way down i missed a bolt or 2. Had fun cleaning with a 50m rope.
|
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Mon 30th Aug 2004 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Tyrolean Wall | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Missing Snow | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hot and sweaty!
|
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Sun 29th Aug 2004 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ Lal Bab | 14m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
My first 6a+ flash. Big moves on big holds.
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6c | ★★ Viking in Heat (Vikings in Heat) | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Second go. Pumpy crux. Great moves after that.
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Fri 27th Aug 2004 - Railay | ||||||
The Keep | ||||||
7a | ★★ Lom Mon | 29m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
First 7a on-sight ever! Long, sustained climb with a hard crux.
|
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6b 7c | ★★ Bottom Feeder (Bottom Feeder (to first anchor)) | 23m, 8 | Average | |||
Thought it was harder than the 7a to the left! Huge sandbag. You have been warned.
|
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6c | ★★★ Nut Cracker | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent climbing at the grade. 3 great sections.
|
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Fri 27th Aug 2004 - Railay | ||||||
Duncan's Boot | ||||||
6b 6b+ | ★ Top Knot | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Short, with some nice moves.
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Thu 26th Aug 2004 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Fire Wall | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ White Hot Hernias (White Hot Hernia) | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The book said this was hard for the grade. It was right....
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Wed 25th Aug 2004 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Dum's Kitchen | ||||||
6c | ★ No Name (Name Unknown) | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Second attempt. Deserves some stars. Continuously interesting climbing with a hard crux down low.
|
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7a+ 7a | ★★ Don Quijote de la Mancha | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Third attempt (after a rain interupted second). Great moves thru the crux section up high.
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Tue 24th Aug 2004 - Railay | ||||||
One-Two-Three | ||||||
6b | ★★ Massage Secrets | 37m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Probably the best of the easier climbs at 123.
|
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6a | ★ Selee | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Another 123 climb where getting off the start is the crux.
|
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Tue 24th Aug 2004 - Railay | ||||||
Muay Thai | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Muay Thai (Muai Thai) | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
I thrashed my way up this in very unimpressive style. Didn't like it at all.
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Mon 23rd Aug 2004 - Railay | ||||||
One-Two-Three | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Sameboy | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
The start was a tad scary in the wet.
|
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Mon 23rd Aug 2004 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | ||||||
6a+ 6b | ★ For You & For Me (For You and For Me) | 8m, 7 | Don't Bother | |||
A horrible expedition thru a cave thing.
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Sun 22nd Aug 2004 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Dum's Kitchen | ||||||
6b | ★ Schlingel Max (Rod Yaak) | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Was Schlingle Max in my book. Hard crux up high.
|
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Fri 20th Aug 2004 - Railay | ||||||
Wee's Present Wall | ||||||
6a | ★★ A Man Can Tell a 1000 Lies | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Didn't look that great from the ground, but was a hidden treasure. Very 3d climbing up a chimney.
|
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6b+ | ★★ Same Same, But Different | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really hard boulder problem at the first bolt, then the rest is about 6a. Lovely climb.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Hello Christine | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sustained climbing the whole way.
|
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Thu 19th Aug 2004 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | ||||||
7a | ★★ Babes in Thailand | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pulling up thru the roof on jugs (+ the odd crip or too thru the crux)
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Thu 19th Aug 2004 - Railay | ||||||
Duncan's Boot | ||||||
6b 6c | ★ Mai Prue | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
6C in my guidebook. But I on-sighted it pretty easily, so a bit soft at that grade.
|
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6a | ★ Karaoke | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Warm-up (although who needs to warm-up here?).
|
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Tue 17th Aug 2004 - Railay | ||||||
Muay Thai | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Pattica Samupade | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Interesting traverse. Led with the tide coming in around Carolyn's feet!
|
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6b | ★★ Bad Boy | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting moves at the top makes this a sweating fight.
|
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Mon 16th Aug 2004 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | ||||||
6b | ★★ Cowabungalow | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Deserves more than 1 star - if only because your belayer is sitting in the pub.
|
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Mon 16th Aug 2004 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Fire Wall | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ For Helga (For Hega) | 30m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
First few bolts could be exciting if you are only just leading at this grade. The rest was great.
|
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Mon 16th Aug 2004 - Ton Sai | ||||||
Dum's Kitchen | ||||||
6a | ★ Schlingal Moritz (Pahn Taalod) | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I assume this is Schlingel Moritz. A nice warm-up. Very polished at the start.
|
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Sat 14th Aug 2004 - Railay | ||||||
Escher World | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ As Far as Siam | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really great climb, although a tad polished in the middle (crux). Ooodles of bolts, but tough for the grade. Got launched off the 7a to the left of this climb.
|
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Sat 14th Aug 2004 - Railay | ||||||
One-Two-Three | ||||||
6c | ★★ Kratoy | 26m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
One of the best climbs I've done...anywhere. Superb varied climbing. Easy tick for the grade.
|
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Sat 14th Aug 2004 - Railay | ||||||
Escher World | ||||||
5 | ★ Short and Easy | 13m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Like the name says....Very polished at the bottom.
|
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6a+ | ★ Mekong Crazy (Mekhong Crazy) | 15m, 7 | Don't Bother | |||
An oily mess at the bottom and top. Not sure where the oil comes from (maybe the boats?), but it makes the climb exciting.
|
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Fri 13th Aug 2004 - Railay | ||||||
One-Two-Three | ||||||
6b | ★★ Short and Savage | 8m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Missed a vital hidden hold on the o/s and came down a smoldering mess.
|
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Fri 13th Aug 2004 - Railay | ||||||
Muay Thai | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Idapaccayada | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
A tough ending to a nice grade 5. Not that obvious where to go or what's "in" or "out".
|
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Sat 24th Jul 2004 - Nowra | ||||||
Bomaderry Creek South Central | ||||||
18 19 | ★ Burping Burgers | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Hard if you miss the round hole as a foot-hold
|
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Fri 23rd Jul 2004 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point The Pocketed Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Murdoch the Horse Fucker | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Hard crimping down low into big airy moves at the top. Awesome
|
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Fri 23rd Jul 2004 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point Gunbarrel Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Diddy Kong | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Almost as good as Vanderholics
|
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19 | ★★ Gun Barrel Highway | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Didn't think it was worth 3 stars (1 at best!). Second bolt very rusty
|
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Fri 23rd Jul 2004 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point Vanderholics Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Vanderholics | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Probably the best climb I on the trip
|
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Fri 23rd Jul 2004 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point The Very Nice Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Killer Boas | 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A short climb, that's got a bit of everything
|
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Thu 22nd Jul 2004 - Nowra | ||||||
The Grotto Cliffline Iceman Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Jester | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tricky off the ground then a great move to the chains
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Thu 22nd Jul 2004 - Nowra | ||||||
The Grotto Cliffline Gonads Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Depleted Gonad Circumference | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great moves up the arete
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Wed 21st Jul 2004 - Nowra | ||||||
Bomaderry Creek Mortein Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Psycho Hose Beast | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Warm-up for the day
|
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19 | ★ Organo Cockacide | 7m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Another short, pumpy climb
|
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Tue 20th Jul 2004 - Nowra | ||||||
Bomaderry Creek Mortein Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Flood | 11m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A thought-provoking move near the top...
|
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Tue 20th Jul 2004 - Nowra | ||||||
Bomaderry Creek Rosies | ||||||
21 | ★★ Fist Full of Steel | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
First climb at Nowra - and a pumpy one at that
|
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Tue 20th Jul 2004 - Nowra | ||||||
Bomaderry Creek Mortein Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Bug Itch (Bitch Itch) | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
An easy one for the grade. Sustained face climbing
|
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Sun 11th Jul 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ Squeaker | 41m | Don't Bother | |||
How does this climb get a star??? Loose blocks, vegetation, and a poor walk-off make this climb impossible to recommend
|
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Sat 10th Jul 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
18 17 | ★★ Moby Dick | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A great little climb. Previously top-roped a year or two ago.
|
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Sat 10th Jul 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress | ||||||
17 16 | ★ Kamikaze | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Finally, revenge for getting blown off this 12 months ago. A 1 very un-16 move wonder
|
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Sat 10th Jul 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★★ Hyaena | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I hate jamming! One very tough section, followed by nice climbing to the top. Would be a tough lead....
|
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Fri 2nd Jul 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face | ||||||
20 | ★★ Dazed and Confused | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Seconded Lawrie. I expected to walk up it - but struggled like hell!
|
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Wed 30th Jun 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group High Dive Gully | ||||||
23 | ★ Cellular Destruction | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Not sure if I get a full tick for this, due to not pulling the final mantle in the pouring rain. Would be a very hard climb placing the gear.
|
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Sat 12th Jun 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area New Image Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Crooked Mile | 20m | ★ Good | |||
The only tick on a very wet long weekend at Arapiles. Save a medium size cam or two for the crux near the top.
|
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Sat 5th Jun 2004 - Norton Summit | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
25 | ★★ Crossroads | 20m | ★ Good | |||
The direct start to Pivoting Head, with the crux down low, and exciting moves at the top on pumped arms
|
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24 | Pivoting Head | 17m, 7 | Average | |||
An old trad route reborn into a sport route. Easy climbing - the crux is clipping the bolts
|
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Mon 24th May 2004 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Van Diemen's Land | ||||||
22 | ★★ Terminal Insomnia | 30m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sensation climb for 22. Almost on-sighted it, but got pumped stupid trying to find the crux exit hold
|
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Sun 23rd May 2004 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Buandik Area The Gallery | ||||||
24 | ★★ Two Tribes | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Got it forth go on day 2 at the Gallery - on rapidly fading arms. Used the "don't let go" technique - provides good entertainment to those watching
|
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Sat 22nd May 2004 - Victoria Range | ||||||
Buandik Area The Gallery | ||||||
25 | ★ Hueco Dreaming | 9m | ★ Good | |||
A bit bouldery at the top for my liking. Got it first shot on lead after playing around on top-rope, so probably soft for the grade
|
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Mon 26th Apr 2004 - Cleland | ||||||
Bandicoot Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Cling Wrapped Cat | 13m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Easy slabbing through most of the climb leads to a steep cruxy finish. Draws already on thanks to Dave
|
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Sun 11th Apr 2004 - Moonarie | ||||||
Gargoyle Wall | ||||||
16 | Rubbery Under Arms | 35m | Crap | |||
Think old-school. Think moss. Think loose blocks. Think horrible thrutching. Think dubious route description. Think Rubbery Under Arms. Think of another climb to do.
|
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Sun 11th Apr 2004 - Moonarie | ||||||
Flying Buttress | ||||||
21 | Bird Of Prey | 25m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Great face climbing, although a tiny bit contrived (is the flake in or not?)
|
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Fri 9th Apr 2004 - Moonarie | ||||||
The Ramparts | ||||||
20 | Jezebel Spirit | ★ Good | ||||
A decent line up the arete next to Stranger.
|
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Sun 21st Mar 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★ Voodoo | 65m | ★★★ Classic | |||
What a great climb. First pitch was a bit old-school for me, and I had a few moments. Second pitch was a bit nothing (maybe that's where it looses it's star), but the third pitch was a ripper - reminded me of Flying Buttress at Moonarie.
|
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Sat 20th Mar 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area | ||||||
18 | ★★ Daily Planet | 20m | Average | |||
No quite sure what the star is for. Bush-bash to get to the ledge, then sub-par protection.
|
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Sat 20th Mar 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Lois Lane Wall | ||||||
15 | Calypso | 20m | ★ Good | |||
A good warm-up route.
|
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Mon 15th Mar 2004 - Norton Summit | ||||||
The Hole | ||||||
25 | ★★ Dr Strike and the Hole Hog Hurricane vs the Funky Bullster (Dr Strike) | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This climb took me a LOT of attempts. Only 16 moves, but all of them are hard.
|
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Sat 13th Mar 2004 - Norton Summit | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
26 | ★★ Tim in the Gym | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
...following in the chalkmarks from a 1000 climbs by Fred.
|
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Sat 31st Jan 2004 - Norton Summit | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
25 | ★★★ North Terrace Stroll | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amidst a frenzy of new routing activity by the Hilti-twins, an old classic was ticked...
|
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Mon 26th Jan 2004 - Mitcham Quarries | ||||||
Car Crash Quarry Sector 1 - Left | ||||||
21 | Stepping into the Unknown | 12m, 4 | Don't Bother | |||
Scary climbing on loose blocks and plenty of dirt. Soft for the grade.
|
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Mon 26th Jan 2004 - Mitcham Quarries | ||||||
Car Crash Quarry Sector 4 - Graffiti Wall | ||||||
24 | FA ★ Receptive Orifices RHV | ★ Good | ||||
Contrived climbing with a couple of nice moves. Use RO and PO cracks to get up the blank wall between them. A couple more ascents needed to confirm the grade.
|
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Sat 24th Jan 2004 - Morialta | ||||||
Thorn Buttress | ||||||
24 | ★★ No Mustard on Withdrawal | 21m | ★ Good | |||
Got completely tangled in the rope at the traverse and thought it was all over, but pushed through only to get totally pumped after the crux and sweat, shake and thrash my way to the finish. Very ugly ascent. Orignal TR Jan 2003
|
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24 23 | ★★ Japetus Direct Finish | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Now a sport route. One of the easier ticks at this grade. Original TR Mar 2003
|
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Wed 21st Jan 2004 - Norton Summit | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Trundle Down Rundle | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pretty tough for the grade, and a bit scary on rusty bolts, but fantastic moves the whole way.
|
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Sat 17th Jan 2004 - Norton Summit | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
24 23 | ★★★ Anzac Highway Amble | 25m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sustained and pumpy climbing. One of the longest pitches at the Summit. Original T/Rope Mar 2003
|
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Sat 10th Jan 2004 - Morialta | ||||||
Thorn Buttress | ||||||
24 | ★ Two Hour Hole | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Bottom half now a sport route. One hard move, and then enough space between gear to keep you interested.
|
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Wed 7th Jan 2004 - Mitcham Quarries | ||||||
Car Crash Quarry Sector 4 - Graffiti Wall | ||||||
24 | ★ Receptive Orifices | 8m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Layback up the crack the whole way. Very sequency, and requires good footwork. Originally T/Roped 23/12/03
|
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Sat 3rd Jan 2004 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★★ Electric Warrior | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Got it clean after falling at the lower crux a few months ago. Top crux felt easier second time around. Hard for the grade.
|