Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Trenches AWOL | ||||||
V2 R | ★★ AWOL | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
It's a really fun problem. Not R rated, good flat sandy landing, though the topout has a bit of spice.
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Sun 3rd Mar 2024 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Trenches In The Trenches | ||||||
V1 | ★★ The Nude Bomb | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 23rd Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Jimmy Cliff | ||||||
19 | ★ Anal Leakage | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ Mr Scumbag | 20m | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★★ Johnny's Jalopies | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 21st Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Self Portrait Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ Chook Lotto — 3 attempts | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Atomic Punk Area | ||||||
14 | ★ Refusal | 25m | ★ Good | |||
The first half is a great splitter. The second half is choss but actually quite fun.
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20 | ★★ Atomic Punk | 25m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Spoogey and strenuous. Went the wrong way,pumped out and backed off above the cam break.
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Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Noodle Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Noodle | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hidden gem!
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Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Mezzaluna Area | ||||||
15 | ★ Community Service | 20m, 6 | Average | |||
19 | ★★ Tin Man | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Deep Freeze Area | ||||||
18 | ★★ Uncle Amy | 16m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★★ Last Call for Fame and Glory | 16m, 6 | ||||
Haha this was a blast. I really recommend bringing the cam. It is 100% broken legs if you do this as a "sport" route and blow the clip.
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19 | ★★ Damn These Electric Sex Pants | 16m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Alzheimers onsight. Definitely done this before but didn't log it? It's pretty good.
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Sat 6th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Mezzaluna Area | ||||||
15 | ★ Shabby Doll | 16m, 4 | Average | |||
It's fine. Still a bit trad, take care if you're leading at the grade.
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16 | ★★ Mezzaluna | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 18th Nov 2023 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Trenches In The Trenches | ||||||
V2 | ★★ The Rude Bomb | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Cool line of pockets with poor feet, and the obvious line here to my eye.
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V2 R | ★★ Napalm Death | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bit dirty but there is a great climb there if you brush a bit. 'R' rating is too much, it's fine.
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Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Amen Corner | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I saved this one for too long. I found the infamous runout not too bad, you can rest for as long as you want beforehand, and then it's over in a couple of layback moves. The top half though, that took a bit more out of me!
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Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Tombstone Wall | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
15 | ★★ The Pharaoh | 33m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Bonnet Bay | ||||||
18 Hard | ★ Mowgli - with Luke | 10m, 3 | ||||
Pretty stiff problem, almost harder than "Kim" for me!
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21 Easy | ★★ Kim - with Luke | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Good balancy blunt arete, just too short.
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24 | ★★★ Lean Beef — 3 attempts - with Luke | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
First grade 24 redpoint in almost ten years, I think
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Powerbra Rangers | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Sail Away Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Black Heathen | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Brilliant and atmospheric. Some wet holds under the first rooflet. I found the top crux hardest.
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Krell Area | ||||||
17 | ★★ Here and Now | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Kind of cool. Good looking red wall, but it's a bit sandy.
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | ||||||
23 Easy | ★★ Mal's Mega Route — 2 attempts | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Really nice. Softy, but the grade might hold for the onsight, the crux is pretty blind and there's zero chalk on it.
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18 ~19 | ★ Ooops | 15m | Average | |||
Desperate.
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Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Chasing Amy Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ 1800Traverse | 20m | Average | |||
Haha I have done this, alzheimers un-send. Hampered myself with rope drag and got spooked climbing off the ledge into ankle breaking territory. It would be good if it was straight up.
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Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Junket Pumper Area | ||||||
24 | ★★ Junket Pumper — 2 attempts | 15m | ★ Good | |||
One hang.
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Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ These Apples Must Be Jen's — 2 attempts | 20m, 7 | Average | |||
The top is good. Bottom crux took me a while and felt a bit janky, not my favourite move.
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Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Shock Wall/Fire Bug Mall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Gold Star Pitch 1 | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
It's tricky! Chimney to reachy thin hands, good crack climbing.
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21 | ★★★ Vincent HRD | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I was assured this was soft but I thought it was pretty full on. Needs a bit more cleaning before I'd call it classic (also the start is a bit crappy). Excellent though.
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Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Walk-Down Gully | ||||||
16 | ★★★ The Gates of Janus — 2 attempts | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Beautiful route. Got to the roof with no gear left that would fit - had to downclimb and lower off. Second try, backcleaned a red & green totem for the top and cruised it.
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Fri 21st Jul 2023 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point Sloth Area | ||||||
16 | ★★ Sloth | 23m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Geez, this route has a sting. The cobble is classic. Pretty hard I thought.
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Fri 21st Jul 2023 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point The Very Nice Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Pale Yellow Underwear | 10m, 5 | ||||
Dogged to hang draws, then 3 redpoint attempts. Next time, pre-tape middle 2 on the right hand.
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Wed 19th Jul 2023 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point The Very Nice Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Pale Yellow Underwear | 10m, 5 | ||||
Freed all moves, but trouble linking the crux. Redpoint attempt fell apart in the first half
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Tue 18th Jul 2023 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ||||||
Tianjara Falls Huskinson Homo (Ricky) and the (Graeme) Hill Top hoods gully | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Dodecahedron | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I heard it was all choss up here, but this is great quality. If this counts as choss, the entire Blue Mountains is unclimbable sand.
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13 | ★★ Strike Path | 19m | ||||
A great mini adventure!
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16 | ★ Roger Bourne Identity | 16m, 6 | ||||
Good! Conglomerate texture adds a bit of interest to the footwork.
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Mon 17th Jul 2023 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point Descent Gully Walls | ||||||
16 | ★★ Barbie Twins | 17m, 7 | ||||
Very trad, for TP
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17 | ★★ Butt Head | 15m, 7 | ||||
15 | ★★ Santa's Little Helper | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Jugs mantles slab, it's got it all. Testpiece at the grade!
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11 | ★ Lucifer | 15m | ||||
24 | ★ Sonic Hedgehog | 14m | Average | |||
Old school and stretchy. Freed the crux and climbed to the top but didn't try to redpoint.
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14 | Tony | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
I liked it, but it's probably just Barrenjoey nostalgia. Don't overlook it if you're looking for easier climbs here.
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Sun 9th Jul 2023 - The Balkans | ||||||
The Frontline The Far Side | ||||||
V1 | Lima | 3m | ||||
V2 | ★ Kilo | 3m | ||||
Great mantle!
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V3 | ★ Juliet | 3m | ||||
V0 | ★ Foxtrot | 3m | Average | |||
V1 | ★ The Upside | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Attractive feature, would be alright with more brushing and traffic.
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Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Blackboard Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Yesterday's Heroes | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Ladder of Gloom Area | ||||||
11 | ★★ Who needs new boots | 14m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Not bad, for an easy route.
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15 | ★ Avoidance Arete | 8m, 4 | Average | |||
Sun 25th Jun 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Blackboard Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Palm Sunday | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Bluebell | ||||||
25 | ★★ Darling Buds of Mayhem — 2 attempts | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Stuck the move once but had trouble repeating it. Don't have the right feet yet I think.
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21 | ★★ Welcome to the Body Shop — 2 attempts | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
16 | ★ Sparky | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Maybe needs some traffic and a good brushing after La Nina?
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Bullet Hole Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Looks Poxable | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent, euro style! If only it was a bit longer...
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18 | ★ Fox Sox Pox | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
This is a weird climb and hard to read. Rebar "bolts" are hilarious.
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22 | ★★ Scott's Edge — 2 attempts | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Hard move at the crux for the grade I thought. Also one of the headwall jugs is huge and was not only filled with water, it had its own ecosystem of plants going on.
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Glamorpus Area | ||||||
23 | ★★ Scones of Doom | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Cool cave climb. I made it to the sit-down rest, and rested for ages thinking I had a headwall still to climb, then realised I basically had to stand up to get to the anchor.
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Ladder of Gloom Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ Ladder of Gloom | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Ah, if only it was longer. Awesome feature!
What's with the bizarre anchor placement? I guess the intention was to force people to climb to the lip? |
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4 | Cenotaph Corner | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Actually kind of good, for a 4? Fairly clean. Soloed to exit the crag.
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Berowra | ||||||
Blackboard Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Eccles | 12m, 2 | Average | |||
So many different styles at Berowra - and if you like brutal crimps this is the sector.
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17 | ★★ Yesterday's Heroes | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 2nd Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Oronga Crags Banksy Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Spoke to the Mountain, Listened to the Sea Extension | 30m | ||||
Onsight with draws in place. We had a (I was told) a 70m rope cut to 65m and barely had any left. Definitely make sure you have a full 60 and not a meter less.
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20 | ★ Spoke to the Mountain, Listened to the Sea | 22m | ||||
18 | ★★ The Polar Opposite | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Easier than the via ferrata haha. Actually quite good though
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Sun 19th Mar 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
15 | ★★ The Carthaginian | 33m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Better than I remembered it! Maybe it's gotten cleaner? Really good anyway. #4 is nice for the crux at the top of the first corner, small gear for the second corner good too (blue totem).
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15 | ★★ The Pharaoh | 33m | ★ Good | |||
Wow, this actually does have some great face climbing moves haha. Enjoyed it. It was nice to have the #5 but crucial purple totem also would have been ok. Lowering off of the SSCC anchors unfortunately could damage the tree.
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18 | ★★★ The Eternity | 22m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
It actually climbs really well on toprope, definitely easier to appreciate the moves without the stress of leading.
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Sun 19th Mar 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
13 | ★ Charity | 14m | ||||
Beautiful line but fairly boring climbing. One #3 at the start, two #4 and fit the #5 right at the top of the corner but didn't really need it.
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Sat 4th Mar 2023 - Mt Gibraltar | ||||||
Slab Walls | ||||||
13 | ★★ The Very Easy Route | 110m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Surely this will eventually become a local bumbly classic on par with Sweet Dreams? Genuinely easy low angle climbing with decent rock quality. First pitch is a bit grotty but after that I thought it was clean enough.
Highly recommended to use the descent gully with the fixed ropes. Walking around via the north walls and main wall is very overgrown right now and a tricky bushwalk. |
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Sun 26th Feb 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Heathcliff | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Thing 2 | 65m | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★★ Pumpkin Puree | 50m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★★ Chip Off the Old Block | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 10th Feb 2023 - Fisherman's Bay | ||||||
18 | ★★ Gilligans Arete | 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Classic and beautiful. Highly recommended if you are interested in DWS.
About 2ft of south swell today, which was still enough to produce a boiling cauldron of whitewater after a wave set, though climbing was possible during the lulls. Definitely not recommended with any south swell. |
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14 | ★★ Easy Ups | 5m | ★ Good | |||
Exit from the water with wet shoes!
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5 | ★ Easy Outs | 4m | Average | |||
Downclimb to access Gilligan's Island
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17 | ★★ Croc Hunter | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
16 | ★★ Sting Ray Arete | 5m | ★ Good | |||
Wed 8th Feb 2023 - The Docks | ||||||
The Mooring Block | ||||||
V0- | ★ The Descent | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Kind of classic in its own way as something that's genuinely easy, really.
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V2 | ★★ Drew's Bomb | 4m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Proper quality in my opinion. Switzerland on the beach.
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Wed 8th Feb 2023 - The Docks | ||||||
Squashed Dog Wall | ||||||
V0 ~V1 | ★ Theif!! | 3m | ★ Good | |||
One move wonder, cool move though.
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V1 | ★★ Labrador | 4m | ||||
V4 | ★ Road Kill | 5m | ★ Good | |||
V2 | ★★ Bitzer | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 7th Feb 2023 - Scout Wall | ||||||
Beginner Wall | ||||||
2 | ★ Basic Route | 7m | ★ Good | |||
Best actual beginner climbing this side of Djurite/Arapiles?
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9 | ★ My First Sport Climb | 5m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
8 | ★ Layback Crack | 5m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 7th Feb 2023 - Scout Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Dib Dib Dib | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Exceptional holds and features.
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15 | ★ Woggle | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The rock is really good.
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15 | ★ Venturing On | 10m | Average | |||
A little loose in the top crack.
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18 ~19 | ★ Natalia | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Good, old school, tried both the slab traverse start and the overhung direct start, both were desperate start unless there was a trick I missed (being very tall or building a Blueys cairn would do it).
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Mon 6th Feb 2023 - Morna point | ||||||
North Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Where's a Stinger Missile When You Need One? | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hot take, Point Perpendicular is an awful pile of congealed seagull poop with unexceptional climbing, compared to Port Stephens rhyolite. Excellent moves and rock, though a a bit short and dirty I'll grant.
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Mon 6th Feb 2023 - Morna point | ||||||
South Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ Lobster Trap | 9m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Alzheimers onsight?
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Sat 26th Nov 2022 - Alfords Point | ||||||
Alfords Point Main Area | ||||||
22 | ★★ Roof Stalker | 16m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Brute strength move at lip, a bit inconsistent
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17 | ★★ Vintage CuvĂ©e | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Very cobwebby. Top is kind of cool.
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