Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Mon 20th Aug 2018 - Ã…land | ||||||
Soltuna Djupviksgrottorna. Grottan | ||||||
6B | ★★ Cave problem - with Jack's Dad, Jack | |||||
did a variant start from further in the cave. Not the 7A+ though. Really cool climb!
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Mon 13th Aug 2018 - Ã…land | ||||||
Kasviken Dodo | ||||||
6B | Punkki | |||||
cool!
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Sat 26th May 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Luisenwand | ||||||
9- | ★★★ Spargeltarzan - with Milan, Matze | 20m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome technical faceclimbing!
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Fri 25th May 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Klagemauer | ||||||
9 | ★★ Windstärke 9 - with Milan Matze Malte Jonathan | 7m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short boulder with surprisingly many moves in it!
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Mon 21st May 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Burggaillenreuth Schlossbergwand | ||||||
9 | ★★★ Liebe ohne Chance - with Milan etc | 18m, 5 | ||||
Great climbing! Almost flashed it, almost fucked up the 2nd go
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Sat 24th Mar 2018 - Chulilla | ||||||
Chulilla Town Pared de Enfrente Sex Shop | ||||||
7c+ | ★★ La Columna Olvidada - with Domi | 25m | ||||
Almost forgot logging that one Easy for the grade + ideal beta + a whole lot of psych made it possible
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7c | ★★ CurrÃculo Vaginal - with Domi | 25m, 11 | ||||
Perfect beta thanks to Domi!
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8a | ★★★ Vejiga Vibratoria - with domi | 25m | ||||
Hell yeah!!! 3rd go
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Thu 22nd Mar 2018 - Chulilla | ||||||
Chulilla Town Pared de Enfrente Tierra de nadie | ||||||
7b 7b+ | ★★ Tierra De Nadie - with Sarah | 32m | ||||
Awesome!
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Thu 15th Mar 2018 - Chulilla | ||||||
Pantano Pared Blanca / Monte De Venus | ||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Futurama (L1) - with domi benno etc | 40m | ||||
Awesome!
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Sun 4th Mar 2018 - Oberammergau | ||||||
Frauenwasserl Frauenwasserl | ||||||
7 | ★★★ Linke Sonnenplatte - with Dad | |||||
4 | ★★ Normalweg - with Dad | 70m | ||||
Sat 10th Feb 2018 - Batu Caves | ||||||
Nanyang wall Right (Section C + D ) | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Right Decision P1 (Fist Full of Hangers) - with Riz, Kenzo | 19m, 8 | ||||
if it was this one which I've, it is great. Not sure though
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6a+ | ★ Many Excursion - with Riz, Kenzo | 23m, 7 | ||||
again, not sure if it really was this route. Felt harder
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Wed 7th Feb 2018 - Bukit Takun | ||||||
Battle Field | ||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Aaron Schwarzenegger - with Riz | 24m, 10 | ||||
is that the one with the cool tufa / stalactite? If yes, this one is reaaally cool
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Wed 7th Feb 2018 - Bukit Takun | ||||||
Big Hole | ||||||
6b+ 6c | ★★ Purple Haze - with Riz | 35m, 16 | ||||
awesome! Some crack climbing skills are useful!
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6c | ★★ Pee like a Man - with Riz | |||||
Was it that one??
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Sun 4th Feb 2018 - Batu Caves | ||||||
Nyamuk Shieldtox Section | ||||||
5c+ | ★★ In Guns We Trust - with Kenzo | 30m, 10 | ||||
cool!
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6a+ | ★★ Bangsar Babes Backdrop - with Kenzo | 30m, 10 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Hot Tempered Freaking Glue Gun - with Kenzo | 31m, 10 | ||||
really nice!
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Sat 3rd Feb 2018 - Batu Caves | ||||||
Damai Wall Main Wall | ||||||
5c | ★ Golly Gully - with Kenzo | 18m | ||||
6a | ★★ Bad News - with Kenzo | 42m | ||||
6a | ★ Virgin Climb - with Kenzo | 15m | ||||
My first route here. In Malaysia. In Asia, actually. Nice, but unfamiliar after all the sandstone in Australia
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6b 6a+ | ★ Aciaci Buka Pintu - with Kenzo | 28m, 8 | ||||
Quite nice, but a bit dirty and dubious rock
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6b | ★★ 3 Brothers - with Kenzo | 22m, 7 | ||||
The crag classic here, at least definitely out of routes I've done today
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5c | ★ Permaisuri - with Kenzo | 20m | ||||
5c | ★★ Lead Man - with Kenzo | 12m | ||||
Tue 30th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau The Egg | ||||||
24 | ★★ Red Demon - with Yulid Shorrock, Pedro | 14m | ★★★ Classic | |||
great climb! Felt totally wrecked in my first go (short night and sore muscles), but after this warmup I got my spirits back and got it the next go
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Tue 30th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls | ||||||
14 | ★★★ Sweet Dreams - with Yulid Shorrock, pedro | 130m, 20 | ||||
full moon ascent - sweeet!
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Mon 29th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Main Wall (Ferris Cave) | ||||||
22 | ★★ Eucalyptus (Link-up) - with Pedro | 20m, 7 | ||||
wup
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Sat 27th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Dr Do Little - with Pedro, Yulid Shorrock, more | 15m | ||||
nice crux
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19 | ★★ Little Triggers - with Pedro, Yulid Shorrock, more | 25m | ||||
awesome!
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22 | ★★ Hunky Dory Left Hand Variant - with Pedro, Yulid Shorrock, more | 20m | ||||
more inviting than the right hand line. Great and tricky climbing with a few good fingerlocks
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22 | ★★ Hunky Dory - with Pedro, Yulid Shorrock, more | 20m | ||||
crimpy final
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16 | ★ Karinya - with Pedro, Yulid Shorrock, more | 25m, 7 | ||||
Fri 26th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Dr Stein - with Peter Webster | 18m, 10 | ||||
awesome route! 2nd go
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Fri 26th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Corroboree Walls Teenage Buttress | ||||||
24 | ★★★ I Was a Teenager For the CIA - with Pedro | 58m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome arete! Tricky and a couple of hard sequences, but there's always something and you get good rests in between. We went bush-bashing from the Fashion Wall instead of rapping in. The latter would have been easier though!
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Thu 25th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Wave Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Rubber Lover - with Ella, Simon, Yulid Shorrock | 20m, 5 | ||||
2 laps today. warm-up + getting the draws down in the end
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Tue 23rd Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Corroboree Walls Fashion Area | ||||||
24 | ★★ Work Injury - with Pedro | 15m, 7 | ||||
nice crimp ladder
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21 | ★★ Queen Bitch - with Pedro | 15m | ||||
tricky moves
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23 | ★★ Fashion - with Pedro | 15m, 7 | ||||
little pumper
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Tue 23rd Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Corroboree Walls Disneyland | ||||||
6 8 | Possum (Training Run) - with Elias | 24m, 10 | ||||
Got the onsight!!
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19 | ★ Lightning McQueen - with Pedro, Yulid Shorrock | 15m | ||||
nice
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19 20 | ★ Iron Man (Claw Tortoise) - with Pedro | 22m | ||||
good!
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Mon 22nd Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Sail Away Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Black Heathen - with James + Gwen | 25m | ||||
1st go today, did it in Oct the last time. Great route!
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Sun 21st Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Echo Point Echo Point Walls | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Echo Crack - with Pedro, Gwen + James | 190m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
What a great climb. As there is already a lot said in the last comments and on Paul's blog article (which was helpful, thanks guys!), I'll keep it fairly short here. I found it absolutely brilliant! First pitch is more of an unpleasant scramble, I quite liked the second pitch, which Pedro lead. The crux at the beginning of pitch 3 was well protectable and honestly not hard for a 25. Then again, I had a good beta and idea about the placements as I've seen Gwen seconding up this bit. The rest of pitch 3 consists of a lot of jamming (first #2, then #3) and stepping / bridging leading to a comfy belay on carrots. Were there with four people. Pitch 4 was awesome corner-cracking, easier (good crack width and footers outside) in the beginning and a bit more strenous higher up. You get a few good rests. All #3s again, maybe also a #4 if you like. The traverse on carrots is fine, just begin it at the right point. Cool and tricky mantle higher up, belay on carrots. Hit me up if you have questions!
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Fri 19th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Main Wall (Ferris Cave) | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Grape Hour - with Pedro | 22m, 8 | ||||
damn that got me fighting. Didn't climb nicely at all and almost came off several times. Felt exhausted from the last days
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24 | ★★ Sydney Rose - with Pedro | 12m | ||||
good route!
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22 | ★★ Eucalyptus (Link-up) - with Pedro | 20m, 7 | ||||
Thu 18th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Main Wall (Ferris Cave) | ||||||
27 | ★★ Onions - with Pedro, Yulid Shorrock | 20m, 8 | ||||
did that one again and had a look on the extension afterwards. Went very smoothly this time, the moves are dialled!
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28 | ★★ Onions (Extended Dance Mix) - with Pedro, Yulid Shorrock | 25m | ||||
wow, stoked about my first 28! Although I honestly think it doesn't deserve the grade, because you just have too many good rests in between those problems - non of which I think is 28. But I'll take it
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Thu 18th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Powerbra Rangers - with Ngaire Beckett | 23m, 8 | ||||
good fun!
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Tue 16th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Diamond Falls Access Ledge | ||||||
23 | ★★★ You Crazy Diamond - with Blue Mountains Orangutan | 26m, 9 | ||||
'cool-down' to get the draws. Brilliant climb!
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25 | ★ 8 Carat - with Blue Mountains Orangutan | 26m | ||||
wanted to do it as a warm-up bolt to bolt, but realized after my first rest under the little roof that I should have gone for the onsight. Found it fairly easy for the grade. Go for the onsight! As it was, I gave it a 2nd go
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Mon 15th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Wave Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Rubber Lover - with John Pownall, Yulid Shorrock, pedro | 20m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
One of my very favorites aye. Always fun!
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Mon 15th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Main Wall (Ferris Cave) | ||||||
27 | ★★ Onions - with Blue Mountains Orangutan | 20m, 8 | ||||
Stoked!!! My first 27 in OZ. Tried it already a week ago and came very close in my 3rd go. Since then I kept falling off from the crux under the chains (plus I fucked up the start a few times) and it became kind of a mental battle. Finally got it today (1st shot today, 7th/8th in total). It was a good project to get a little bit back into redpointing. Boulder start, rest, boulder, rest, boulder, top!
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Mon 15th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Ancient Mariner Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★ Mr. Curly - with Matteo | 10m, 3 | ||||
nice!
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Sun 14th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Bunny Bucket Buttress and Hotel California Area | ||||||
20 | ★★ Randy Rabbit Ridge - with John Pownall | 280m, 99 | ||||
Quite a good alternative to BBB and indeed quite a nice climb. That said, it will become even better with more traffic - so far you'll come across some easily breakable footers. Not too bad though and you should not not do it because of that. Like ze Aussie Johnny said, pitch 2 is great and pitch 8 has some excellent exposure. Linked some pitches. Had a lot of fun
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Sat 13th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Exhibition Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Exhibition Wall - with John Pownall | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
gave this beauty another go
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Sat 13th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area The Freezer | ||||||
19 | ★ Absolute Zero - with John Pownall, Yulid Shorrock, Pedro | 23m, 5 | ||||
not as good as the one to the left
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24 | ★★ Good Big Dog - with John Pownall, Yulid Shorrock, Pedro | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
very good climb, no really hard move but pumpy
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22 | ★★ Extension Lead - with John Pownall, Yulid Shorrock, Pedro | 20m | ||||
gnarly start, indeed. Good climb!
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Thu 11th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Caladan - with Justin | 32m | ||||
Brilliant crack! Make sure you'll bring a few cams (handcrack -> #3 comes in handy). Awesome.
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19 | ★★★ Telstar - with Justin | 80m | ||||
wicked! the chimney is insane. hard to get into it. Short but really good finger crack in p3. Not the best rock quality (a bit sandy in parts), but reasonable. If you're after an excellent adventure-climb, do this one!
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Wed 10th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Main Wall (Ferris Cave) | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Lyptus - with Justin | 23m, 8 | ||||
wup
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Tue 9th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zap Crag Upper Zap | ||||||
22 | ★★ Jug Buzz - with Justin | 15m, 6 | ||||
sweet!
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Sun 7th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Amen Corner - with Justin | 30m | ||||
great line with mostly pretty good climbing!
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21 | ★★★ The Janicepts - with Justin | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
gave this beauty another go
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Sun 7th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
18 | ★★★ The Eternity - with Justin | 22m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
gave this beauty another go
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Fri 5th Jan 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Main Wall (Ferris Cave) | ||||||
23 | ★★ Euchre - with Justin | 22m | ||||
quite hard in the first half
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22 | ★★ Eucalyptus (Link-up) - with Justin | 20m, 7 | ||||
Good!!
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Tue 2nd Jan 2018 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
Mackeys Lookout | ||||||
11 13 | ★★ Noblesse Oblige - with Dan Marshman | 420m, 6 | ||||
Cool! Never climbed such a tall slab before. We had a lot of fun. Got along quite quickly, once we were on the right route (tipp: start as it says in the description at the left leaning bushy crack and not the right leaning one 20m left of it! This is Good luck and Managment and a bit harder and longer).
Took us about 35min to get from the car to the start of the climb. Yellow tape and a few cairns help. Stash a bike at the top or walk for a bit over 1h back to the car. You could basically leave your complete rack at the car and just take a hand full of draws and some slings with you. There are fixed hangers (no carrots!), but not too many of them. One or two per pitch, if even. I oftentimes thought I might as well have left the rope in the car. So if you don't feel very confident going up easy (but still exposed and serious) slabs without having anything to hold on to, don't do it. Take comfortable climbing shoes (I climbed with runners, which I would NOT do again). The route finding is pretty ovious and straight forward, if you read the description. Sun-exposure is quite high (it was at least when we did it before midday). What else is there to say? It's good fun and you make many climbing metres very quickly. Enjoy and take care! |
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Mon 1st Jan 2018 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Cathedral | ||||||
17 | ★ Bloodnok - with Dan Marshman | 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
found the roofy bit awkward and quite hard for a 17, but maybe that was just me climbing it wrong. The finger-/handcrack afterwards is awesome!!
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Mon 1st Jan 2018 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Peroxide Blonde - with Dan Marshman | 18m, 5 | ||||
something special! Very nice!!
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Mon 1st Jan 2018 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Gorge - North Side North Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Bannister's Rush - with Dan Marshman | 55m | ||||
That one looked really daunting and intimidating to me on the rappel. I almost wanted to ascend back up on the rope. Glad I didn't, because once I started climbing it was perfectly fine and much easier than excpected (not easy though!). Dirty and mossy. An adventure
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Mon 1st Jan 2018 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Hump Area The Hump | ||||||
18 | ★★★ The Initiation - with Dan Marshman | 90m, 1 | ||||
Great climb and the first one in 2018!
You get down with a single fixed 60m rope. We linked the first two pitches together. Interesting and fun 3rd pitch. Very enjoyable jamming in pitch 4, unfortunately only a few meters.
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Sun 31st Dec 2017 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Horn Area Dreamworld | ||||||
18 | ★★ Spaceman Spiff - with Dan Marshman | 15m, 6 | ||||
nice! Broke off a foothold at the top though, very unexpected
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20 | ★★ This Is Not Our Land - with Dan Marshman | 15m, 3 | ||||
Really good and quite tricky up there
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21 21 to 23 | ★★ Injustice - with Dan Marshman | 15m, 4 | ||||
'21 to 23' is indeed true I guess. For me (180cm on a good day) it was a 21, but I wouldn't know how to climb it if I was shorter.
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Sun 31st Dec 2017 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Horn Area The Horn | ||||||
14 | ★★ The Pintle - with Dan Marshman | 70m | ||||
rapped down with a fixed 60m rope. Did the left hand variant and instead of pitch 3 Peroxide Blonde.
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16 | ★★★ The Pintle Left Hand Variant - with Dan Marshman | 70m, 1 | ||||
Great!
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Sun 31st Dec 2017 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Cathedral | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Sultan - with Dan Marshman | 65m | ||||
Awesome! Tricky in parts. Great rock formation
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Sat 30th Dec 2017 - Mount Buffalo | ||||||
The Gorge - South Side Summit Rim | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Home James - with Dan Marshman | 30m, 4 | ||||
Awesome fun!! A bit balancy in parts. The dyke is a great feature. Bolt plates and you might want to take some small (0.5ish) cams.
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Thu 28th Dec 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Castle Crag | ||||||
17 | ★★ Swinging - with Dad | 20m, 2 | ||||
nice little climb! Not that I want to complain but I wondered why there are bolts in it?
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Thu 28th Dec 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
16 | ★★★ Watchtower Crack - with Dad | 95m, 3 | ||||
Fuck yeah, it was great fun once again! Dad was first pretty frightened and then exhilerated Done it in two pitches and will do it again some day!
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Wed 27th Dec 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★★ Cantata - with Dad, Steve | 35m | ★ Good | |||
pretty nice! Did it as a team of three and in three pitches
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Wed 27th Dec 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Tannin Direct - with Dad | 20m | ||||
really good!
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19 | ★ Wyrd - with Dad | 50m | Average | |||
weird
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Wed 27th Dec 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae The Flight Deck | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Have A Good Flight - with Dad | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wanted to do Orestes but backpedaled because the whole line was covered with spider webs + big fat black evil looking spiders. Call me a wuss but that was too much for me Then I wanted to do 'It'll never fly' and climbed around the arete just to realize that I forgot the #2 cam. So I climbed back into my favorite sport route here and finished that one. Chaotic, but rewarding
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Wed 27th Dec 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
12 | ★★★ Bard - with Dad | 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Still amazing!! Dad's favorite
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Wed 27th Dec 2017 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Thunder Crack - with Steve | 30m | ||||
Awesome climb! You might want to take a 0.1 cam or so for the first bit
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Fri 22nd Dec 2017 - Sisters Beach | ||||||
Corruption Wall | ||||||
14 | The Slit - with Dad | 15m | ||||
not worse than it looks, but not any better either
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22 | ★★ Rhythm Rude Girl - with Dad | 15m, 6 | ||||
Wondered why there was only one bolt in this 'sport' route and read afterwards about them being suspect. I rapped over it, had a look on the gear and did it as a trad lead. Found it a bit tricky to place in parts but I'd say it is reasonably protectable. The climb itself is awesome!
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Fri 22nd Dec 2017 - Sisters Beach | ||||||
Fly Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Superfly (the Movie) - with Dad | 15m | ||||
an exceptionally exciting 17
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Fri 22nd Dec 2017 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso The Wailing Wall | ||||||
21 | ★ Sugar Mountain - with Dad | 10m | ||||
nice! Done it again to clean it
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Fri 22nd Dec 2017 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso Golgotha | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Ghost Rider - with Dad | 27m, 10 | ||||
really good
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22 | ★★★ The Long Kiss Goodnight - with Dad | 25m, 12 | ||||
excellent with an exciting finish
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Thu 21st Dec 2017 - Rocky Cape | ||||||
Zorro Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Zorro - with Dad | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Much better than it looks in my opinion! A little adventure
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Mon 18th Dec 2017 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Northern Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Centaur - with Jasmin | 48m | ||||
Excellent!!
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Mon 18th Dec 2017 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | ||||||
22 25 | ★★★ Neon God (Neon God P1) - with Jasmin, Ryan, Dad | 50m | ||||
Fantastic!
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