Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fri 1st Dec 2023 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Capstone Project - with Brendan Heywood | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
a little less clean than it's little sibling below, but high quality and very unique! Great to get up the pair on a tight timeframe!
|
||||||
Fri 10th Feb 2023 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Pub Buttress | ||||||
23 | FA ★★★ Under the Bridge — 2 attempts - with Alec Eastwood | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Rolled in late feeling flat but summoned the courage to get back on this. First attempt went way smoother than last week but I ended up dripping blood on Alec and taking a mini whipper at the crux. Regrouped, retaped and tried again and somehow managed to sort the beta out enroute and get through the crux section by the finest of margins. It was all only just in the end and definitely one of my more memorable sends. Right up there with the best routes in Ebor.
|
||||||
Fri 13th Jan 2023 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Rex Hunt's Area | ||||||
18 | ★★ Moving Targets - with Brendan Heywood | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 13th Jan 2023 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Red Riding Hood Area | ||||||
21 | ★★ Destructive Wombats - with Brendan Heywood | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
17 | ★★★ Little Red Riding Hood Direct - with Brendan Heywood | 30m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 12th Nov 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Green Jam — 2 attempts - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis, Alec Eastwood | 13m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
This thing is gold! I remeber looking up at it 5 or 6 years ago thinking I should get on it one day....that day finally arrived. Sorted the crux on my first shot and had enough juice to get through it on my second. Great route Michael!
|
||||||
20 ~20 | ★★★ Possum Magic - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis, Alec Eastwood | 13m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A very nice, high quality line! After a long hiatus I was fortunate enough to milk the rest and find some endurance.
|
||||||
Tue 15th Feb 2022 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | ||||||
18 | ★★ Death roof - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis | 6m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 3rd Feb 2022 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Pub Buttress | ||||||
16 | FA ★★ Stonkey Kong - with Brendan Heywood, Simon Porter | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The top section felt like I was throwing choss at Simon but will clean up further. The bottom 2/3rds is really high quality jamming with options for the top out.
|
||||||
17 | ★★★ Stonka Truck - with Brendan Heywood, Simon Porter | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A really clean, stonking good line with great jams and pro. Stonking was the word of the day.
|
||||||
Fri 14th Jan 2022 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Pub Buttress | ||||||
16 | ★★ Sunshine in a dress - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis | 12m | ★ Good | |||
An engaging experience. I loved the helix hug deep in the crack around the back of the pillars. Short but special.
|
||||||
18 | ★★★ Booster transfer - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I was a bit spent by this point. Got up it okay but was working at the top. Went for the pure crack ascent also which got tricky at the top out. surprised not to completely crumble the chossy finish hold and blow my top out. I was reefing on that thing only to easily remove it from above 😐 nice lead Skippy.
|
||||||
21 | FA ★★ Raspberry kisses — 2 attempts - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A cracking good route.
|
||||||
19 | FA ★ Shoulder block - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis | 12m | ★ Good | |||
An engaging experience. I loved the helix hug deep in the crack around the back of the pillars. Short but special.
|
||||||
Thu 13th Jan 2022 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Red Riding Hood Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ When the Levee Breaks RHV - with Brendan Heywood | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lowered in with plenty of gear so thought I should use it. Nice features. Surely been done before.
|
||||||
Thu 13th Jan 2022 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Pub Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Stonka Truck - with Alec Eastwood | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A sweet finish to a great day.
|
||||||
21 | FA ★★ Kellogs Just Right — 2 attempts - with Alec Eastwood | 12m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Felt much smoother than my previous session but ended up being the gnarliest of fights. I got super close on my first burn and, leaving nothing in the tank, was pretty fortunate to pull through on my second shot. One of my most favourite/memorable routes at Ebor.
|
||||||
Sun 1st Aug 2021 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Fourth Breakaway | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Sleight of Hand - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis, Todd Free, Volodymyr K, Sophia, Katrina, Atto | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Been wanting to try this gem for a long time. Was dissapointed to see the nearby waterfall blowing horizontally onto and drenching the route. But then Volo got on it anyway and said it was great so I was inspired. Incredible route with the experience made all the more richer by the wet, windy conditions. Full focus and extra grunt required. Trad fix aquired.
|
||||||
19 | ★★★ Rooflet - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis, Todd Free, Volodymyr K, Sophia, Katrina, Atto | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Such a great test piece. Always lets me know where my trad head is at. Had to work hard to gain the rest under the roof but calmed down after that and then cruised the lip of the roof which was a pleasant surprise.
|
||||||
Sun 4th Apr 2021 - Beulah | ||||||
Western areas Goat Dome Main Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Crack left of fig - with Brendan Heywood | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
17 | ★★ Upper ledge access route - with Brendan Heywood | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
quicker and less goaty than the cave...
|
||||||
Sat 3rd Apr 2021 - Beulah | ||||||
Western areas Goat Dome Main Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Upper ledge access route - with Todd Free, Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
19 | ★★ Crack left of fig - with Chloe, Benji Dutaillis, Todd Free, Brendan Heywood, Katrina | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 15th Feb 2021 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | ||||||
28 | FA ★★★ Dream Catcher - with Brendan Heywood | 10m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
FFA. I’ll always remember the first time Skippy and I stood beneath this grand granite roof staring up dumbstruck at the splitter crack that runs through the heart of it. From that moment on it became somewhat of an obsession. Armed with honed beta, extra chinnies and an anticipated cool southerly change, I finally got up it clean on my very last attempt before the rain arrived and a planned leave of absence set in. This one was a team effort. Massive fist pumps to fellow roof crack froth-dogs, Skippy and Benji. May both of you always ‘just gonna send it’.
|
||||||
Sat 10th Oct 2020 - Diamond Head | ||||||
The Boat Hole Port Pillar | ||||||
15 | ★★ A Capsized Audience | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 10th Oct 2020 - Diamond Head | ||||||
The Boat Hole Starboard Pillar | ||||||
16 | ★★ Half Mast | 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A really beaut line in a fantastic setting.
|
||||||
Fri 25th Sep 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas Bomb Town | ||||||
16 | ★★ Chicken Wing to Bomb Town - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Not quite as 'classic' as we were expecting but still good fun. Even got to use the homemade BBB's (Bloody Big Bro's).
|
||||||
Sun 30th Aug 2020 - Warrumbungles | ||||||
Crater Bluff | ||||||
17 |
★★ Lieder
- with
Brendan Heywood
| 270m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
A very memorable route. Thought it'd be nice to get on and have a nice easy, airy wander up a grade 16.... not quite. A committing route for the grade with sections of sparse protection, moist or loose rock and some really neat exposure. The two grassy ledges were great for a half-height picnic and it was nice to sort out the mess of a description for the end of the 3rd pitch. Skippy took an exciting tumble/bounce down the waterfall face and was arrested by a #5 BD microwire after a good sized block decided it wanted to relocate itself. Really interesting, engaging climbing and totally up there with FOTP in my books.
|
||||||
Fri 28th Aug 2020 - Warrumbungles | ||||||
Bluff Mountain | ||||||
18 |
★★★ Flight of the Phoenix
- with
Brendan Heywood
3
18m
lead by
Ben Vincent
8
48m
lead by
Brendan Heywood
| 290m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
What a day out. A late arival to camp had us at the base of FOTP by 10am. In hindsight the route is quite obvious. At the time, however, it was not. Traversed way too far left on P1 and belayed at the big obvious shrub below the corner with two pitons (probably SJ). This meant that we probably didn't even do FOTP P2 but wandered up past said pitons on some other route (probably SJ) and way over and above the P2 belay ledge. I wandered about in circles on the slab 20m above and L of the wing for an age and found a small belay ledge for some other route with an old rusty hex and a sling (likely LD). Down climbed to retrieve my sparse pro before using the corner of SJ do get back onto the ramp and finally located the tat down the R-hand end of the ramp - pretty obvious in hindsight. We probably didn't rap far enough on P3, but found some good med cam placements behind a large hanging block. P4 was great with good exposure. In fading light I took P5 too far up and R and clearly missed the orange rock swinging L. That meant P6 started below some hanging blocks but we spied the nose before sunset and knew where to finish. We got back on route in the dark halfway through this pitch and really enjoyed it and P7. Got back to Balor at 11:30pm and it was all totally worth it - 15.5 hours hut to hut, what a pair of Bungle newbs ;-)
|
||||||
Sun 2nd Aug 2020 - Beulah | ||||||
Western areas Goat Dome Main Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Crack left of fig - with Brendan Heywood | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 1st Aug 2020 - Beulah | ||||||
Northern areas Blackberry boulders | ||||||
17 | ★★ Your Anger Is A Gift - with Brendan Heywood | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 31st Jul 2020 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Pub Buttress | ||||||
20 | FA ★★ Tree Beard - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Ermagerd. Deliverance Delivers. This the first route at the breakaway is a stunner. With cold fingers and flash pump I had to work hard for this one. Really great route and good sesh on it with Benj and Skippy.
|
||||||
21 | FA ★★★ Airy Aery — 2 attempts - with Brendan Heywood, Benji Dutaillis | 12m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Wow. Deliverance certainly can't produce two spectacularly good routes right next to each other can it...? Aparently so. Sick find Skippy! Got it clean on TR, then followed up with a clean lead on gear which Skippy reckons took me close to an hour...(surely not?!). A delicate techy start complete with an unsuspecting wild finish.
|
||||||
Sun 19th Jul 2020 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Pub Buttress | ||||||
16 | Rasberry shortcake - with Brendan Heywood | 6m | Average | |||
Stick to the face on lead. Maybe worth getting on once you've done everything else..
|
||||||
18 | FA ★ Knees and toes - with Brendan Heywood, Dr. Phil | 12m | ★ Good | |||
21 | FA ★★★ Pillars of Creation — 2 attempts - with Brendan Heywood, Dr. Phil | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
a great route
|
||||||
16 | FA ★★ Thinner inner - with Brendan Heywood, Dr. Phil | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
17 | ★ Starts with a bang - with Brendan Heywood, Dr. Phil | 12m | ★ Good | |||
19 | FA ★ Inimmaculate conception - with Brendan Heywood, Dr. Phil | 8m | ★ Good | |||
A burly finish, but def all there once you sort the beta.
|
||||||
17 | FA Sugar dusted shortbread - with Brendan Heywood, Dr. Phil | 6m | Average | |||
Recycled gear lead and clean
|
||||||
Sun 5th Jul 2020 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Pub Buttress | ||||||
18 | FA ★★ Fist dunce - with Brendan Heywood | 12m | ★ Good | |||
A good line with interesting moves. Not the pick of the lines available, but not a bad one either and we were so excited that we just had to get started on something and so this was it.
|
||||||
19 | FA ★★ Eagle Nebular - with Brendan Heywood | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just enough time to squeeze in this absolute bottler of a route. I expected it to really ramp up but it was fairly consistent. This sort of stuff puts a smile on your face for days.
|
||||||
18 | ★★★ 23andMe - with Brendan Heywood | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Watched Skippy froth his way up this and send it in style. I soon joined in on the froth-fest. A special, high quality find.
|
||||||
Sat 20th Jun 2020 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Fourth Breakaway | ||||||
16 | ★★ Twist - with Alan Ezzy | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
If you're after trad and jamming practice, this Ebor gem is it. Throw on your BD's size 1-3 and plug your way up 10m of juicy goodness.
|
||||||
17 | ★ Fox Trot - with Alan Ezzy | 12m | ★ Good | |||
17 | ★★ Fidget - with Alan Ezzy | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clearly been a while since the last ascent. I dusted off a fair bit of dry lichen and dust with each hand and foot placement which was promptly channeled up the crack and into my face and eyes by the windy westerly. Just added to the experience. Another quality Ebor route.
|
||||||
Sun 17th May 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Bastille | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Deep Thought - with Benji Dutaillis | 25m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This route is freakin awesome! such good climbing and probably my favourite at the grade/style at Gara. Not sure why but upon rapping in and cleaning up a few holds (possibly hasn't been climbed in over 25 years?) we thought that this might be pretty straight forward. Not so. Was going okay until I blew the onsight by breaking off a hold. Had a few rests after that working some of the more committing moves. Had a second go on top rope and was stoked to get it clean. I'd love to get back on this and lead it clean from the ground up. Get on it, Gara classic!
|
||||||
Sun 19th Apr 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | ||||||
20 | ★★ Rites Of Passage - with Benji Dutaillis | 45m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Had a bit of trouble finding the start (would've helped if I'd read the description properly) :-P From the two belayer/anchor carrots follow 3 carrots up the slabby scoop to the R (there is great potential further to the left for better slab). Cool moves through the overlap and L bring you to the base of the next slab which is thin and cruxy and gets the grade I guess. Two more carrots here up the slabby arete. The crack at the top is beautiful and eats up red (#1), yellow (#2) and Blue (#3) BD cams.
|
||||||
Sun 12th Apr 2020 - Beulah | ||||||
Eastern areas Sheep Shit Rock | ||||||
18 | ★★ The Eye Crack - with Benji Dutaillis | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Didn't link the crux on the first two attempts but got it third go. A good problem for my pre-winter rusty trad head.
|
||||||
22 | ★★ Most People I Know - with Benji Dutaillis | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not having to worry about tricky gear placements and belaying and watching Benji work the crux moves no doubt went a long way...
|
||||||
Sat 14th Mar 2020 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
First Breakaway | ||||||
16 | ★ Caballero - with Benji Dutaillis | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Love the off-width at the top. Keeps you thinking.
|
||||||
20 | ★★ Bombay Duck - with Benji Dutaillis | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thought we'd jump on a sporty looking grade 20 trad route and it didn't dissapoint.
|
||||||
15 | ★ The Removalist - with Benji Dutaillis | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Hardest 15 I've done in a while and first time back on rope in 7 months! I don't think I've paid the loose block as much attention as I did on thhis send
|
||||||
17 | ★★ Firestorm - with Benji Dutaillis | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had to get Benji on an Ebor jamming classic for our last climb. It felt quite a bit harder than I remembered but got up it okay. Nice to be back and jamming!
|
||||||
Sat 7th Mar 2020 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Hope Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★ Anticipation - with UNEOAC | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A quality route. Gets better with age.
|
||||||
16 | ★★ Hope - with UNEOAC | 25m | ★ Good | |||
14 | ★★ Charity - with UNEOAC | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 23rd Aug 2019 - Wollomombi Falls | ||||||
18 | ★★★ After the Rain - with Scotty | 190m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
A full day of Tablelands adventure climbing. Some very good rock quality throughout, interspersed with sections of poor and loose rock. Variable climbing with some thought provoking moves and a committing crux section on very small/run out gear. Plenty of dry moss on this face. If you’re getting desperate for pro try looking under some moss. Amazing scenery. Dress warm, no sun on wall during winter.
Rap: Good clean fun until we got a rope stuck at the bottom of the 4th rap. Scotty belayed me up my 1st pitch here to retrieve said rope. P1 14 (25m): a little bit hard to find the start. We walked in from the big ledge below the last rap, 20m above the creek line. Ended up starting a little R of the description in a large off-width crack with a chockstone to a semi hanging belay. Up and R of top of crack. P2 16 (20m): up and L of small roof into one of two open corner/s. I started in the R corner and traversed into the L when pro and holds looked better. Up to big blocky ledge with a series of large cracks for big bomber pro. P3 18 (25m): From blocks head up and L into open fused corner. We momentarily considered going R at blocky belay to see what we could find but eventually opted to stay the path of ATR. RPs protect the first moves here after which is a committing run-out move up the blank corner before traversing L at or above the arête to find good holds/pro out on slab. Head up to find obvious crack line in which you should site some history in the form of a #6 hex. Belay here or continue on if your ropes allow. P4 16 (35m) Continue up crack line and through mossy and slightly loose/chossy sections. I stepped L at the first blocky overlap before rejoining the crackline above. More mossy skatey sections above but with good pro. Belay on top of blocky pillar at top of crack or continue another 15m to sentinel belay as described in guide. P5 (40m): From sentinel walk R along base of slab until you can step up onto slab. Scramble up and L to top. |
||||||
Sat 17th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
21 21 R | ★★★ Auto Da Fe - with Brendan Heywood | 90m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Intended to do Watchtower Crack and then thought we’d step it up a notch for our last and decided on Skink. A bit of traffic on P1 and a recommendation from a local and we started up Auto Da Fe instead. It totally delivered. I hadn’t needed to place many small wires on our trip. This route changed that. We almost bailed up Golum before even starting P2 but then the local reappeared and decided to watch us on the crux while he ate lunch and so that sealed our fate (plus I have no idea where Golum even went). The crux was a delicate and beautiful thing. I really enjoyed this section. A little committing but pro where you need it.
|
||||||
Fri 16th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Resignation - with Brendan Heywood | 96m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A delightful end to a magnificent day. Great climbing at the grade, esp P3. Finished on dusk with a full moon rising over the Wimmera. Araps is sick.
|
||||||
Fri 16th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Kachoong Area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Kachoong - with Brendan Heywood, Winnie, Jose, Will | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Amazeballs. We had a great party for this one. Met Will, Jose and Winnie that morning and teamed up to tackle the route together and take some glory shots! Short and all over pretty quickly but totally lived up to the hype! A bit of drizzle added to the atmosphere and made the crux a little more interesting.
|
||||||
Thu 15th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
13 | ★★ Horn Piece - with Brendan Heywood | 33m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really only jumped on this to access Tanin, a cool climb in its own right with fantastic exposure!
|
||||||
Thu 15th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Tannin - with Brendan Heywood | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Really enjoyed this route. Good pro, great holds, sweet moves!
|
||||||
Wed 14th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
17 |
★★★ Oceanoid
- with
Brendan Heywood
| 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
An amazing line. Loved the cruxy sequence on P1, and found the top out thought provoking (opted against the Walrus). Started P2 in the dark with headlamps. Traverse was cool and the chimney pretty epic. Skippy added the 3rd.
|
||||||
Wed 14th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★★ Lamplighter - with Brendan Heywood | 78m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice and airy in parts. Loved P2 and and how funky is P3?!
|
||||||
Tue 13th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
18 |
★★★ Eurydice
- with
Brendan Heywood
| 65m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Ermagerd, high quality. Started P1 at 4pm and finished well into the dark. A memorable route.
|
||||||
12 |
★★★ Bard
- with
Brendan Heywood
| 120m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
One of the best climbs I’ve done, exposed and excellent climbing. P6 was totally worth doing.
|
||||||
Mon 12th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae House of Atreus | ||||||
17 | ★★ Surface To Air - with Brendan Heywood | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A splendid outing. Total designer climbing. I'd heard about routes at Araps where you can swing your rack of wires and they basically place themselves....this is one of those routes.
|
||||||
Mon 12th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
11 | ★★★ Agamemnon - with Brendan Heywood | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Best grade 11 I’ve ever done! Bit of rain didn’t slow Skip down.
|
||||||
Mon 12th Aug 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Muldoon Area | ||||||
13 | ★★★ Muldoon - with Brendan Heywood | 42m | ★★★ Classic | |||
My first route at Araps. A bit of everything and jugs for days.
|
||||||
Fri 28th Jun 2019 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Third Breakaway | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Luce - with Brendan Heywood, carol lee | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Had a fall before giving it another go. Second attempt was better. Great climbing and a very burly finish. Classic!
|
||||||
18 | ★ Aeroplane Jelly - with Brendan Heywood, carol lee | 20m | ★ Good | |||
First climb of the day and a little damp up top.
|
||||||
20 | ★★ Prime Cut - with Brendan Heywood, carol lee | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A beautiful thing. An Ebor classic.
|
||||||
Fri 7th Jun 2019 - Mt Yarrowyck | ||||||
The upper climbing areas Falcon Bluff | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Aging Experience - with Brendan Heywood | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Such a sick start. Worming, knee bars, a bit of grovelling. Great climb for the first 10m. Kinda winds down after that. Felt a little easier than the grade suggests.
|
||||||
Fri 7th Jun 2019 - Mt Yarrowyck | ||||||
The upper climbing areas Half Dome | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Gourmet - with Brendan Heywood | 17m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Absolute class. This is a great line. Committing start but it’s all there. Some pads would be good
|
||||||
23 | ★★ Masquerade - with Brendan Heywood | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very nice. A tough warm up though. Not a 14 Skip
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Tripe - with Brendan Heywood | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quality
|
||||||
Fri 10th May 2019 - Dangars Gorge | ||||||
Dangars Falls | ||||||
16 14 | ★★ Action - with Scotty | 150m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really happy to finally get on this route. I think I first looked at Dangars 10 years ago and imagined what it would be like. Well, it was great and certainly delivered. Really good clean climbing in parts (particularly on P1-P3), but plenty of loose blocks (P3-P5), and a few chossy teetering towers here and there and we even a couple of passing showers thrown in the mix to keep us on our toes.
Pretty good wire placements throughout despite the routes reputation, need to be careful with cam placements though this rock spits them out pretty easily. Probably a few sections that warranted a stiffer grade (16-17), but I guess that the nature of a choose your own adventure, slightly wandering route. Linked P1 & P2, seconded P3, linked P4 & P5. Climbed on twin 60’s. Good times
|
||||||
Sun 14th Apr 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Flake Crack - with Match, Greer Knight | 53m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Wow, Piddo keeps on giving. Another memorable climb.
|
||||||
Sun 14th Apr 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ The Janicepts - with Match, Greer Knight | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
A bit of everything on this route including a big bucket for a little sit down. Great climbing and a very memorable route.
|
||||||
18 | ★★★ Amen Corner - with Match, Greer Knight | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice and sustained and a little thrutchy through the off-width.
|
||||||
Sun 14th Apr 2019 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
18 | ★★★ The Eternity - with Match, Greer Knight | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome start to the day on a great wandering crack with everything just where you need it.
|
||||||
Mon 8th Apr 2019 - Mt Yarrowyck | ||||||
The practice rocks | ||||||
21 | ★★ Lattanzio's Lurch - with Scotty | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Possibly did an alternate start to the original/more obvious line, but who would know (Lattanzio I guess). A little tricky to protect but worth the effort.
|
||||||
22 | ★★★ Killip's Killer - with Scotty | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sick moves at the start. Jams are quite sharp, but to be expected I guess
|
||||||
Sun 17th Mar 2019 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Hope Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★ Anticipation - with UNEOAC | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
16 | ★★ Hope - with UNEOAC | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Wed 1st Aug 2018 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | ||||||
15 | ★ Bicameral desires - with Brendan Heywood | 6m | ★ Good | |||
If this was a boulder on top of the gorge rim peeps would be all over it! A fun little number with no chalk and one cam
|
||||||
24 | FA ★★ Heaving Falcons - with Brendan Heywood | 15m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
FFA. It's because of routes like this why I love trad. What a bunch of frothy sickness! Had such a good time on this route. It has a bit of everything, laybacks, jams, a roof, and and off width to boot! Felt better at the top than my last attempt. Take medium to large and extra large cams and plenty of slings to avoid rope drag. Thanks for the catch and the psych Skippy!
|
||||||
Sat 21st Jul 2018 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Downstream climbing areas The Fortress | ||||||
19 | ★★ Pockets Full of Emptiness - with Brendan Heywood | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A fun route, with everything where you need it!
|
||||||
Mon 4th Jun 2018 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
First Breakaway | ||||||
16 | FA ★ Squelch The Magic Dragon - with Brendan Heywood | 15m | ★ Good | |||
A climb with a view...except that you're facing the wrong way. Likely pretty wet most of the year but is currently dry and was well worth the extra farmers friends.
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Narcissus - with Brendan Heywood, Richard Curtis, James | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great to get on this again. A quality route!
|
||||||
17 | ★★ Firestorm - with Brendan Heywood, Richard Curtis, James | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Always a pleasure.
|
||||||
17 | ★★ Firestorm - with Brendan Heywood, Richard Curtis, James | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
So much so that I did it twice.
|
||||||
21 | ★★ Headbanger - with Brendan Heywood | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wandery, interesting and definitely not the typical Ebor route (unless you only climbed aretes). A very different 21 to Tough Customer!
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Blitzkrieg Bop - with Brendan Heywood | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A desperate fight indeed. A really nice line despite the Lomandra sabotage... Maybe grade 20?
|
||||||
17 | ★ Rubber Ball - with Brendan Heywood | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 26th Mar 2018 - Ebor Gorge | ||||||
Second Breakaway | ||||||
17 | ★ Modern Electrics - with Dr. Phil et al. | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
14 | Interlude - with Dr. Phil et al. | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Better than I remembered!
|
||||||
3 | ★ Epileptic Chimney - with Dr. Phil et al. | 10m | ★ Good | |||
More convenient than good.
|
||||||
20 | Funky Monkey - with Dr. Phil et al. | 12m, 2 | Average |