Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Wed 21st Feb 2024 - El Chonta | ||||||
El Chanchuillo | ||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Guerrera Cosmica — 2 attempts - with Chrissy | 32m, 17 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
9 days. 20+ attempts. 11- climbing to a really bad and sharp kneebar rest, to a V6/7 crux involving aa really big move to a left hand pinch on steep terrain. After an OK kneebar rest, long, steep 12- climbing to the chains, split by good kneebar rests. I managed to do all the moves during the first session, including onsighting the whole upper part. The rest of the time was spent trying the bottom part. When I did it, on the last possible attempt of the last possible day, it was the first time I stuck the crux move from the bottom. I was so excited about it that I could hardly control my breathing, let alone remember my top sequences. I commited and trusted my movement to motor memory, and focused on breathing and being patient on the rests, even though my calves and thighs were exploding in pain, pump, and exhaustion. It felt like my legs would give in before my hands and forearms. I powered through sections where I forgot how to do, and I was excited and anxious at the same time. Getting to that triangle jug before clipping the chains was great. It felt like a major milestone in my climbing- something I've wanted for so long. It is also the result of so many hours full of joy, psyche, and effort climbing alone, with friends, through frustration, happiness, but also grief and sadness. I am so thankful for life, for my friends and loved ones who accompanied me along the way, for Chrissy, with all her patient and encouraging belays, training, support, psyche (she initiated the send train by sending Amate earlier) and much more, and of course, to climbing. On to the next one!!
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Thu 1st Feb 2024 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon The Graveyard | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ City Of The Dead — 2 attempts - with Chrissy | 26m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
First 5.12 of the year! Been focusing more on projecting harder things like Guerrera Cosmica at El Chonta, or Lucid Dreaming in Boulder Canyon. Pretty great climb. Techy but enjoyable, well-bolted slab into an absolute rest before a steep hand crack, followed by a powerful jug (or good hold) haul. Chrissy made the hands crack look easy, but when I tried it the first shot, thinking I would onsight this, it may as well have been V10- didn't even know where to begin, and everything felt impossible. I'm sure it would be easier if I had any crack climbing skills at all, but as it happens, I bouldered it out using the crimps inside the crack, which feels like V5ish. Pulled it off second try on this beautiful winter sunny day that just so happens was Chrissy's birthday!
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Thu 28th Dec 2023 - El Chonta | ||||||
El Chanchuillo | ||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Reina del Sur — 8 attempts - with Chrissy, Esau | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
7 shots in total. Fun first session with Esau where I could do all the moves. Did 3 goes in that session, where I managed to two-hang the route. Felt far at the time. Fortunately, I videoed someone with actual good beta on the climb, which, when I went with Chrissy yesterday, I put to good use after my first attempt of the day, and on my second and third go, I one hung the route. Today, I almost sent on my first try of the day had I not tried to unnecessarily readjust. Then, after a tip from Chrissy regarding how to use a pocket, and Kashmir regarding a shoulder rest, I sent and it was glorious. Powerful, relentless, yet techy and precise. I love it, and it's I think my 60th 5.12 of this year, and I have completed my 13a pyramid! Bring on 2024!!
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Sat 25th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Lakkos Sabaton Olive Groove | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ Uprising — 2 attempts - with Chrissy | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Got it pretty easily afterwards, even using the direct beta to the pocket at the top May be the last 5.12 of this excellent trip!!
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Fri 24th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Kokkinovrachos Jupiter | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Morphic Fields Ext — 2 attempts - with Chrissy | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Easy climbing followed by steep bad pockets and big moves. Hard first half. Second half I thought was heady. Cool nonetheless!
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6c+ | ★★★ I'd Even Grow a Moustache for You - with Chrissy | 28m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Excellent, flowy, varied and at times thought provoking climbing. Get on it!
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Tue 21st Nov 2023 - Kyparissi | ||||||
Watermill | ||||||
6c+ - 7a+ | ★★★ Kyparissi - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Chrissy | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Excellent way to start the day! Pumpy climbing on a tufa to a rest, then 3D climbing to clip the anchors!
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7b | ★★★ Myros — 2 attempts - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Chrissy | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
A bouldery, crimpy bottom section followed by kneebar rests, followed by pumpy climbing, followed by kneebar rests, takes it to the top. Didn't get the crimpy start the first try, was unexpectedly hard!
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7a/a+ ~7a+ | ★★★ Thanks George - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Chrissy | 25m, 16 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Greece is amazing, and Kyparissi is gorgeous! Probably the nicest crag we've visited in this trip to Leonidio. This physical, stalictite and tufa-riddled climb has a lower pumpy crux followed by easier 3D climbing. Happy to get it first go! 7a+ in the guidebook.
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Sun 19th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Elona Liméri | ||||||
7a+ | ★ Fesi - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene, Chrissy | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Similar in nature to its next-door neighbor, but with a less sustained nature, and trickier crux. It also has some exposed bits that are somewhat insecure to clip. Satisfying send, but probably not the greatest techy climb in the world
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7a+ | ★★ Koutornithi - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene, Chrissy | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Stoked to get this first try! Very techy and fingery, but engaging and interesting. Beware of loose block, which adds a bit of difficulty by having to avoid it.
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6b | ★★ Bolzenfresser - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene, Chrissy | 32m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Chill stemming up a groovy dihedral. Used it to take some shots of Selene's climb. Great views of the monastery!
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7a ~7a+ | ★★ Le Piliers de Bar - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene, Chrissy | 16m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Without having the guidebook, we figured this tufa-riddled climb would be a suitable warm-up. After Chrissy almost got the OS, I went up with double kneepads, and barely made it up the final mantle, with a banging headache, too. 7a seems harsh. Had to try more than other 7a+, so I think that should be the correct grade (guidebook says so as well). Stoked to get it first go!
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Thu 16th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Lakkos Sabaton Olive Groove | ||||||
6c+/7a | ★★★ Fun and Fuck - with Chrissy | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Excellent pumpy, powerful climbing on interesting pockets. Great stuff!
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6c+ | ★★ S.O.K. Ext - with Chrissy | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Winding down the day on this chill climb with a cool roof and very techy balancy and crimpy crux exit!
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6c+ | ★★★ Born 2 Be Precious - with Chrissy | 25m, 12 | ||||
Flowy, powerful moves on great pockets. Very enjoyable and made me redeem myself after flailing on that middle climb between White Death and this one
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6c | ★★ White Death - with Chrissy | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty fingery, balancy warm-up! We spent the first half of the day going from climb to climb going up one, then setting draws on adjacent ones hehe. There is a climb to the right of this, but to the left of Born which is pretty hard and we did it thinking it was White Death, but it is considerably harder.
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Wed 15th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Elona Elona Upper | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Bibo - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene, Chrissy | 20m, 6 | ||||
Warm-up on this unusual cool corner- but sharp!
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Mon 13th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Kokkinovrachos Jupiter | ||||||
7a+/b | ★★ Metalizer Ext - with Chrissy | 45m, 26 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Techy first pitch, but with amazing movement if you know how to find it. A few hard reaches and tensiony moves. The extension was awesome! Long moves to good pockets, and the exposure is fantastic. Great day: 7a+/b flash, and 7b/+ send!!
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7b/b+ | ★★★ Buddha's Eyes — 3 attempts - with Chrissy | 55m, 23 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Longest single pitch I've ever done cashed at 5.12b/c!! Almost did it in my OS attempt, but clipping the crux draw pumped me out at the very top crux on the gray rock. Came back the next day, blew it down low, and Chrissy was kind enough to let me go again immediately after, and without resting, I got it! 4th day on, too
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Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Kokkinovrachos Jupiter | ||||||
7a - b ~7a+ | ★★★ Doxa Ext - with Chrissy | 45m, 23 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Flowy and chill. Loved it! Started the day pretty late, but I love Jupiter. Thecrag has this as 7a-b, so I'll go for the middle grade of 7a+.
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Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Elona H.A.D.A. | ||||||
7b | ★★ Trufa — 2 attempts - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Excellent vertical to mildly overhanging technical climbing on smallish slopey tufas. Only just got it on my second try! My hands were opening on the clipping sloper, which later I found that there was a jug to the left... Loved this area. Very cool cave and views. Didn't mind the walk in either.
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7a+ | ★★★ Erase — 2 attempts - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
The route looked sick after not-quite seeing what Tracey had done on her OS. Got up it, and blew the OS by not getting the first kneebar at the overhang. Got it easily the second go. Highly recommended!!
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Fri 10th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Elona Montañejos Climbing Garden | ||||||
6c | ★★ 20 Años de Diferencia Ext - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 24m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pretty cool cross-overy first half. Not sure why they made it so long- second part does not add any quality or grade.
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6b/b+ | ★★ 100 Dias en Leonidio - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sharp, but flowy- not sure what to think of the area. Not a lot of classics, but then I may have been biased by the dreary weather.
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Wed 8th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Lakkos Sabaton Lower | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Savra - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
As part of my excursion to the extension. Weird pumpy moves on sharp limestone.
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6b | ★★ My Sexual Program - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 20m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Warming up! The one and only non-super-sharp climb of the day. Cruisy on good holds.
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7a+/b | ★★★ Io — 2 attempts - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Yay!! After flailing on this one because I was tired still from the savage 7a, I felt like I needed a win for a wide variety of reasons. Got on it, embraced the searing pain in my skin, and got it. Lightly overhanging on not-as-good-as-they-seem holds and sharp pockets makes for a short but intense climb. I think this may actually be 5.12 number 50 of the year. Came at the right time, and got further rewarded by a dope view of the Aegean.
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Tue 7th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Kokkinovrachos Jupiter | ||||||
7b ~7b | ★★ 40:1 Ext - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 45m, 25 | ||||
Unbelievable!!! Second 12b flash this year! So thankful to be here in good shape. Pumpy first pitch after which there are mega long, strengthy moves to reachy pockets. Felt so cool!!
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6c+/7a | ★★ Yorgos Bogos - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 39m, 23 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great warm-up with long moves to good holds. Thought this was 6b when I went up it, and decided not to stop and rest, and I thought it was a sandbag! It was only later that I learned that it was 6c+/7a. The start of a wonderful, wonderful day.
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7a+ | ★★★ Warum Warum - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey Hua, Selene | 42m, 19 | ★★★ Classic | |||
My third 5.12 flash of the day, making this both the day I've sent the most 5.12s ever, and certainly the most 5.12 flashes ever!!! Having climbed 3 40+ meter pitches already, I was tired from the go. To make matters worse, the start is thin and balancy and cruxy. Very sustained climb with long moves to not-necessarily-great holds. Had to scream my way to the top! Lovely evening climb that also I think marks my 50th 5.12 send in 2023. F*(k1|\|g @|\/|@z1ng!!!!!
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7a+ | ★★★ Kalimero | 42m, 20 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
An absolute classic. Best climb yet in Leonidio! Second 5.12 flash of the day, too! Felt amazing to go from the double gaston to the last victory hold! Slippery and slopey at the bottom, with pumpy long moves to good pockets afterwards. Mega classic 40+ meter pumpfest!!
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Sun 5th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Elona Elona Upper | ||||||
7a | ★★ Cornflakes & Tahini - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey, Selene | 22m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A dubious choice for warming up, but one that I don't regret! Offwidthy start next to a bit limestone block, followed by steep thuggy moves to sharp holds. Can place a kneebar/kneescum or two. Stoked for a good start of the day!
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Sun 5th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Elona Elona Main | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Paranihida — 2 attempts - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey, Selene | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Got on it a little tired, but also after seeing bits and pieces of Tracey and Selene's attempts. A lot more straightforward than Kneebaropolous, and overall a better climb for me I messed up a sequence on the OS attempt and skipped. Took it to the house almost immediately afterwards. So I caved to peer pressure to try again and it got done!! Psyched for such a good day!!
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7a+ | ★★ Kneebaropoulos - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey, Selene | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Hilarious because I messed up all the beginning and was mega pumped since bolt 2. Did not find as many good kneebars as the name of this climb would suggest, but an exquisite journey through folded curtains made of limestone nonetheless. Does not let up! Super dooper happy with the OS!
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Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Lakkos King of Thrones | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Paparazzi Route - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey, Selene | 25m, 10 | ||||
Bad choice for a warm up given that you do use your fingers on this one, but happy to be climbing in Leonidio with friends I had not seen in a long time!!! Lots of technical crimpy climbing in and around a sharp arete.
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6b | ★ Mächtig Gewaltig - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey, Selene | 25m, 9 | ||||
Final climb of our first day in Leonidio! If you like chimney-ing with your hips with little feet and hands, get on this!
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7a/a+ | ★★★ Tsoutsouni - with Igor Khudoshin, Tracey, Selene | 25m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great steep climbing on good holds! Happy with the flash, but mainly being able to climb sort of hard with my left middle finger! Steep tufa climbing with a reachy lockoffy crux 3/4 of the way up ending in some stemmy climbing.
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Fri 27th Oct 2023 - Shelf Road | ||||||
Sand Gulch Freeform Area | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Barney - with Chrissy | 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Warm up on a cold crack.
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5.12a | ★★★ Freeform — 2 attempts - with Chrissy | 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Placed draws coming down from the climb next door. Beautiful route with sculpted edges, deep pockets, and cool jugs. Slightly overhanging after a crimpy reachy crux at the bottom. Second half is a pocket haul to gain good edges over a rooflet, the mantle of which marks the end of the climb. Cold late October day with wind made me wear a neck liner, beanie and fleece on the send. Bad news: moving out of a pocket my left middle finger got stuck and it creaked in a not awesome way, overextending at the joints. Though I fought it and sent after the fact, it does seem injured. How much it will affect my Leonido trip we will see.
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Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Shelf Road | ||||||
Cactus Cliff Right Side | ||||||
5.12a/b | ★★★ Cro magnum — 2 attempts - with Chrissy | 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Beautiful rock and setting. Easy climbing on shaded, cold corner to a sequency boulder problem involving compression between a shallow left pocket and a right hand sidepull sloper (wide span) followed by a big, delicate move to a good edge. Something of a one move wonder, but somewhat tricky to figure out. Thanks to Chrissy, because I figured out one part, and she figured out the othe! Great end to a weekend out at Shelf. It's already so cold out!
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Fri 13th Oct 2023 - Shelf Road | ||||||
The Bank 2150 Wall | ||||||
5.11c ~5.11b | ★★★ Lime Street - with Chrissy | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great techy warmup, pumpy at the top, clipped the chains just in time!! Love Shelf and its peacefulness...
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Fri 13th Oct 2023 - Shelf Road | ||||||
The Bank North Bank Cliffs | ||||||
5.12a/b ~5.12b | ★★★ Heavy Weather — 3 attempts - with Chrissy | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Excellent and powerful and sequency pocket pulling on great, clean, vertical rock. Thank you Chrissy, for having me re-evaluate my beta and making it so much easier on my 3rd go! Hardest I've sent in Shelf so far. Felt a lot more like 12b to me, and Mountain Project says 12a/b which would make more sense to me.
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Mon 25th Sep 2023 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon The Fiscal Cliff | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Colliding — 2 attempts - with Chrissy | 9m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice climb where you go from kneebar to kneebar like a bee going from flower to flower. Some physical big moves involving not-that-great pinches, and placing the kneebars can be tiring. Took me a minute to figure out (thank you Chrissy), but got it second go! First 12 send post-Kalymnos Also, I believe this is a special climb. According to my records on theCrag, I have done as many 5.12s in 2023 than I have in all other years combined- #41.
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Tue 19th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Ivi - with Kesh, Asti | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Beautiful sustained climbing to a strenuous crux. Then a bad sit-wrap-around rest, followed by a steep kneebar-assisted jug haul to the anchors Stoked that these first-try 5.12s are becoming a thing!!
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Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Palionisos Secret Garden | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Ymer - with Esau | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I set this as a toprope for Esau. Bouldery and short. Took out some rock pieces, so wear a helmet!
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7a | ★★★ Ricounet - with Esau | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Right after setting the 6b+ for Esau, I headed to this one. I had eyed it when I was looking for climbs. Its chimney section looked so cool, so because we still had some time, I got on it. Hardish start, then techy climbing through most of the rest of the climb with stemmming, dropknees, and generally a lot more feet movement than hand movements. The end is pumpy. What a fantastic route!
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7a+ | ★★ Ballos - with Esau | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
What. An. Area. This area is pretty darn beautiful from the ride from Masouri, to the approach, to getting there, to the climbs. The sea is right there, blessing with its calming sounds and breezes this beaufully sculpted wavey limestone decorated by tufas, stalactites, and cauliflowers. The movement on this one flows very nicely. For me, the crimpy section in the middle is the crux, which I dispatched diligently. Very, very stoked for this one! The setting was inspiring for sure!
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Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ Aphrodite — 2 attempts - with Esau | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
We woke up late and someone was already working on Aegialis, so I decided to get on this instead. Really cool, bouldery sequence on (at this point) slick crimps! I think I've lost some power from all the endurance climbing I've been doing. Enjoyed it a lot!
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Wed 13th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Afternoon | ||||||
5c | ★★ Au Revoir Là-Haut - with Esau | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Flowy straightforward climbing. I tried the extension which was not the aforementioned. It was sharp, cryptic, insecure, and just not what my body needed at that time, so I did what I don't do very often and bailed on it. Maybe another time
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7a+ | ★★★ Ermis Connecting Us — 2 attempts - with Esau | 28m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pretty fun climbing on +/- a few degrees off vertical on long moves on pockets. Sequency and crimpy crux, but not too bad, maybe V3ish. Onsight was blown at the crux because of bad headspace and skin hurt. Rehearsed it and got it next go easily. Get on it!
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Tue 12th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Afternoon | ||||||
6c | ★★ Lady in Black Ext - with Esau | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice extension to a nice route. A bit sharp.
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7a+ | ★★ Morteau Rico Ext — 2 attempts - with Esau | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Flowy first half. Second half is sharp, crimpy, but has its charm. Stoked to get it second go!
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Tue 12th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | ||||||
7c | ★★★ Priapos — 4 attempts - with Esau | 40m, 23 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Beautiful climb. Just stunning in every way. The scenery, backdrop, phenomenality of the terran, movement, and more. First started projecting it on my second day in Kalymnos, the 9/9/2023, 2 attempts (onsight attempt almost cleared the hardest section), then 9/10/2023 also saw another attempt. Today, on a windy, perfect weather September day, I focused on breathing above all. After a fine elastic band warrm-up and stretching. Went out of my way to do things properly, as the sheer length of this climb I feel merits any methods that give you the fitness and focus to do all 40 or so meters of overhanging climbing. I made a concentrated effort to keep my breathing under control, and I managed to do it. On the rests, besides continuing my good breathing, I practiced a bit of mindfulness, following the advice from a pretty good article on resting on routes. I allowed myself a lot more easily to be thankful for where I was, and how beautiful and fun it is! I have never done a route quite as beautiful? Maybe only comparable in beauty to Lord of the Thais. Endurance climbing like this is surprisingly (or unsurprisingly hehe) meditative. I timed my rests with Esau. I took sweet and sour gummies to restore my blood sugar. It came down to the wire, too. I tried clipping the chains 3 times before I was actually able to clip the hard-to-move wiregates whilst managing 40m of rope drag meandering through a maze of stalactites. I kept breathing all the way through, climbed a bit higher, and sent. It was amazing.
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | ||||||
6b | ★★ Monahiki Elia - with Esau | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Beautiful, flowy climb to some sculpted tufas.
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Thu 7th Sep 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | ||||||
7a | ★★★ DNA - with Esau | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Great way to start this trip and also my 40s. Kneebar bonanza. Unbeatable location and views. Felt like I was floating through it. Great stuff. First day driving a scooter too haha.
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Sun 3rd Sep 2023 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon The Fiscal Cliff | ||||||
5.12c | ★★★ The Road — 3 attempts - with Chrissy, Jonathan | 9m | ★★★ Classic | |||
What an unforgettable ascent. All-time moment FOR SURE. As Chrissy and Jonathan worked Over the Top (which both of them seeeent!!), I, shoulder recently semi-tweaked, wasn't sure what I was gonna do. I was so close to just belaying and taking it easy, as I was leaving for Kalymnos that very afternoon. I warmed up just in case. My shoulder was feeling OK, so I decided to give this one a good flash try after being sprayed by Chrissy. Got a good first burn in, but it started raining. I got to the top and fully expected to clean the route. My friends told me to leave it up, as I wondered how it would be possible to get up it again. I am so glad they had this kind of patience and psyche to climb. After the rain passed and the rock (sort of) dried, I gave it a determined second go. After the crux move at the lip of the slopers, I took a HUGE whipper which was pretty fun and funny. I said "no way" and wanted to try again immediately. I rested a couple minutes, and went up again. What followed was a screamfest assembled of extremely unlikely sticks to sub-optimal slopers for the entire climb, even to the clipping of the chains. I have never tried so hard on a climb, ever. I was completely overjoyed with such an unlikely send, but mainly because I didn't know I could dig that deep. I felt the consequences after for sure, which was a second confirmation that I did indeed access a level of effort previously unknown to me. What a prelude to Kalymnos!!
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Fri 25th Aug 2023 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
Sno-Cone Cave | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Rehab - with Pe May, Marcelo Castaneda | |||||
I mean, I OS'd this years ago, but logging it now. It's an exceedingly chill climb. First climb with Pe and Marcelo in like 9 years! Soooooo good to see these guys after 4 years!!
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5.11d | ★★ Suck It and See — 2 attempts - with Pe May, Marcelo Castaneda | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pretty much did the OS, but after doing all the hard moves, failed to see an obvious hold and fell Got it easily second go, even though I broke a pretty fat foothold, and also backtracked from a missed deadpoint!
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Thu 24th Aug 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Boulder Canyon The Narrows Avalon Second Tier Tarot Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ The Tower - with Chrissy | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Flowy warmup up a meandery slab, to a rooflet, to a stem, etc. A tour of the basics of Boulder Canyon, basically.
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5.12c | ★★★ Fapanese Direct — 5 attempts - with Chrissy | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
First 12c outside of El Chonta this year! Very much up my alley. Easy climbing to slopers and a powerful-to-place kneebar on a roof, followed by intertwined crimp traversing and powerful moves on the lip of the roof. Pumpy climbing follows. Thank you Chrissy for the belay and video!!!
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Wed 23rd Aug 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Boulder Canyon Lower Dream Canyon Plotinus Wall | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Lucky Strikes - with Flo | 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Best flash of the year, and best in a long time! Flo went first and figured out the moves and set the draws. His beta fit my style perfectly. Bouldery first section followed by 5.11 pumpy climbing with thinnish feet. Excellent feeling, right when the sun was beginning to peek at the wall! Stoked! Flo got it straight after
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5.10a | ★★★ Mr. Sandman - with Flo | 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great way to start the day (7 AM session)! Flo set the draws on this long, varied, meandery expedition, and I did it next for warm up. Nice to be in a place in Boulder Canyon without view of the highway, and instead the sound and view of forests, mountains, and waterfalls.
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Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon The Fiscal Cliff | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Over The Top — 3 attempts - with Chrissie, Lucy | 11m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Powerful, burly climb. Almost landed the OS! The second go I wanted to use a simpler beta, but ended up not working. Got it on my third go. Used the ol' knee-to-arm bar pioneered all those years ago in 3 men and a ladder!
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5.11d | ★★★ Glitter And Doom - with Chrissie, Lucy | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really happy about this OS! Found a key kneebar (more like kneescum) right at the crux, and stemmed my way out. A bit dirty, but a great climb nonetheless!
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5.11a/b | ★★★ Systemic Risk - with Chrissie, Lucy | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great route, and first I've done in the area! Great company too. The area has Coolum-like features, and climbs like it, only less steep. Kneebars are abundant.
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Thu 17th Aug 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Boulder Canyon Sport Park Surprising Crag | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Mercy Drilling - with Datus | 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
OMG!! Hardest flash all year!! I had seen Datus' beta, which definitely helped. Unique climb, as it could be a trad climb in that there is jamming in hands, fingers, and feet, with a powerful crux. I screamed through it all, and got through all of it! Incredible feeling. Definitely improved my day, as I had been distracted with other concerning things.
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5.12a/b | ★★★ Curve of Binding Energy — 2 attempts - with Datus | 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great powerful boulder problem on good holds at the bottom followed by chill climbing the rest of the way. Glad I ditched Shakedown Street (12c that was shredding my fingers and just wasn't a ton of fun) for this one!
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Mon 14th Aug 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Boulder Canyon The Bowling Alley | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ A Tall Cool One — 2 attempts - with Mellow Patrick | 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tried this Sunday last week with Matt. It had started raining but went for the onsight attempt anyway. Passed the crux and my foot slipped on easy terrain! Got it second go, in my first try today
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5.10b | ★★★ Splitting Hares - with Mellow Patrick | 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warming up. Interesting moves on curtain-like terrain. Flowy in a way.
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5.11b/c | ★★ Shady Deal - with Mellow Patrick | 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Looks insecure when belaying, but feels OK when climbing because it is exceedingly well bolted. Tricky crux for sure- uncomfortable moves to not-great holds at the end! Stemmy and precise.
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5.11b | ★★ Father Figure - with Mellow Patrick | 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thin feet at times, cool, long moves. If only it were longer!
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5.10d | ★★ Happy Ending - with Mellow Patrick | 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very cool route! Did it as the last climb of the day at dusk. Jug hauling pretty much all the way!
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Sat 5th Aug 2023 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon Little Eiger | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ Eiger Direct - with Patrick, Ken, Kyra, Alex | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Pretty nice route! The rain erased all chalk everywhere except underneath the rooflet, which turned out not to be a crux at all. Pretty crimpy after the rooflet, and this was compounded by me looking everywhere for holds. Felt good to get a "pure onsight" on such a classic with friends I hadn't hung out with in a minute!
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Wed 2nd Aug 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Flatirons Dinosaur Mountain First Stratum Dinosaur Rock | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ Pretty in Pinkler — 4 attempts - with Flo | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hard 11d! Better route than the utter lack of chalk suggests. Really it's a one boulder problem wonder. Powerful moves to not-that-great holds on a 5-8 move sequence. It comes at the beginning and the rest is straightforward. The boulder problem is V4/5 though, so still a stiff route! Went with Flo a couple days earlier (he's done good progress on Patience Face) and I actually managed to do an easier send of PF even setting draws!
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Fri 28th Jul 2023 - South Platte | ||||||
Staunton State Park Staunton Rocks The Dungeon | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Waiting For The Sun — 2 attempts - with Alex from Whatsapp Climbing Group | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I'm glad I decided to go out. I needed it. Beautiful day, and a bit of a one move wonder (or 3ish) on kneebars. The rest is 5.10+ climbing. Nice to come back to this place.
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Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Flatirons Dinosaur Mountain First Stratum Der Zerkle The Court | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Touch Monkey - with Matt | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Did it partially in the sun. Great steep, sometimes insecure climbing on mostly good holds. Short and intense. Great fun!
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Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Flatirons Dinosaur Mountain First Stratum Dinosaur Rock | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ The Shaft — 5 attempts - with Datus, Matt | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tried this for the first time yesterday (7/21/2023) with Datus, and got 3 shots at it. Great route- shares the start with Patience Face, but then goes directly to the namesake Shaft. The rock was damp and the shared first part felt much harder than the session where I sent Patience Face. Came pretty close on the third attempt even though tired! The next day I came back with Matt and sent it second go! Great route- hard for 12b for sure. This is 5.12 #26 of the year! Power endurancy, bouldery, compressy, slopey, and airy! Again, felt really hard for the grade even though I used kneebars!
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Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Los Dinamos | ||||||
Segundo Dinamo El perro muerto | ||||||
5.10b/c | ★★ Solovino - with Esau, Alex Esau's Friend | 11m | Average | |||
Cleaning the route for Esau and Alex. Pretty average route on not that great rock, but fun outing!
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Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Los Dinamos | ||||||
Segundo Dinamo Paroxismo | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Depredacion — 2 attempts - with Esau, Alex Esau's Friend | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Fell figuring out the first bit... Average route, first on the Segundo Dinamo. I also tried another route in this sector called Guerra Intensa 5.12b, which I didn't send due to it falling apart on the second half- must've pulled out several handholds and multiple footholds- not great...
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Tue 11th Jul 2023 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon Wall of the Nineties | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Refer Madness - with Alex Climbing Group, Nicole | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice crimpy sequency climb with some cool deadpoints on jugs! Felt short after having done Patience Face and Wet Dream
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5.12a | ★★★ Wet Dream - with Alex Climbing Group, Nicole | 31m, 16 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
I was waiting for Alex at the base of this (stick clipped, harness on already, basically Jonesin') and got to do a few breathing exercises I learned from Isabel the day before, and that's just what the doctor ordered! Took my time during the stem rest and the crux felt a lot easier this time. Stoked to have sent 3 12a's in a week!
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5.11c | ★★★ Curvaceous - with Alex Climbing Group, Nicole | 31m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent flowy climbing on great holds with a steep roof on jugs to boot! End of day climb on a perfect July morning with Alex and Nicole!
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Sun 9th Jul 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Flatirons Dinosaur Mountain First Stratum Dinosaur Rock | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Patience Face — 2 attempts - with Datus | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
What. A. Line. Best I've sent in CO. It's one of those lines that reminds you just how good climbing can be. I made up my mind that I would just have fun and put aside performance. Turns out I was so close to onsighting this beautiful, many-tones-of-ocre, barndoory, meandery climb! I fell at the mid-crux, got immediately back on and did the rest without falling. On the second go, I was more cautious and static which made me get more tired, but managed to keep it together for the send! I put kneepads on the second time seeing that I had found many kneebars on the first try, but I didn't end up relying on them. SO stoked to have gotten this. Perfect day with perfect views on perfect stone. I missed sandstone!
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Thu 6th Jul 2023 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
The Nappy Dugout | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Squawk Box - with Alex from WhatsApp | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Even the warm ups feel pumpy at Rifle Fun but unexpectedly hard!
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Tue 4th Jul 2023 - Rifle Mountain Park | ||||||
The Meat Wall | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Crime and Punishment — 3 attempts - with Alex from WhatsApp | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great pumpy climbing to a stemming rest, followed by a sequence of powerful moves on slopers. The send was super unlikely, as I felt tired and was constantly about to fall on the pre-roof, pre-rest section. Made sure I rested well, but on the final crux move, I could tell I was going to fall. Miraculously, I managed to find a left kneebar that saved the day! Stoked to send 12s in Rifle again
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5.11a | ★★ Cold Cuts - with Alex from WhatsApp | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent (required) movement! Pumpy as per Rifle usual, but flowy and fun. Nice to have climbed on permadraws all day hehe
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5.11b | ★★ 80 Feet of Meat - with Alex from WhatsApp | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Psyched to have OS'd it!! Alex had some trouble with this one being new to Rifle style. Super pumpy and on you the whole time- no rests until the chains!
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Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Boulder Canyon Animal World And Beyond Easter Rock | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Empire Of The Fenceless — 2 attempts - with Datus | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Excellent climb! Was inspired by Datus's well-executed send! I had a session where I placed draws, tried Nevermore twice, then warmed down on this this past Monday. Then today I placed draws on it, then tried Nevermore one time, then sent! Balancy and insecure climbing followed by pumpy and balancy moves. What follows is a strenuous reach/throw to an OK crimp. Did the first part quickly and went dynamically for the cruz crimp! Very psyched to get this one. I feel it's one of the more solid 12a's I've done this year (I think this is #22?)
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Thu 15th Jun 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Boulder Canyon Animal World And Beyond Easter Rock | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ Elanor - with Florian | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Got on this after sending Tell-Tale Heart! It looked onsighteable, so why not try it out? Psyched about the OS. Crimpy layback moves on smeary feet followed by big moves on big holds. Redpoint crux is a big move to an OK 2-pad hold that guards the anchor. Stoked! Florian got TTH right after for the send train!
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5.12b | ★★★ Tell-Tale Heart — 5 attempts - with Florian | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.12 #21 in 2023! Two sessions: one on 6/8/23 and another today. Started climbing with Florian- great dude to climb with Sent it after placing draws on it and getting flash pumped and falling at the crux. Because these morning sessions are pre-work sessions, there is no such thing as properly resting before burns. Got on it the second time today expecting not to send. I found a sneaky lean-forward rest at the right hand gaston on the crux, and got a lot back- enough to clear the remainder of the crux moves! Don't let your guard down after the rest post-crux- make sure you rest, as you can still fall on the last bit! I know I almost did. Balancy moves at the start lead to a leanback rest, and crux is flexy, big tensiony, shouldery moves on overhanging good edges and slopers. Redpoint crux is going for the last left hand sloper off of another sloper from a splits stance. Solid and classic!
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5.10d | ★ Warm Up - with Florian | ★★ Very Good | ||||
OS'd this years ago (also on 6/8/23), so logging it now as an OS. We used it, as the name suggests, as a warm-up for Tell Tale Heart. 7 AM climbing in rainy afternoons/evenings make for really nice conditions! Watch the crack/transition between the wall on the left and the dihedral- some rope can get stuck there when giving slack for the anchor, and you need to take harder on the anchor than you would think! Techy dihedral with no real hard moves.
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Fri 9th Jun 2023 - Denver | ||||||
Clear Creek Canyon Highwire crag | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ People's Choice - with Ben | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great dihedral climbing with the crux pitch being the last one and the crux of that being a mantle on no holds! Ben solo'd the second pitch cuz he went off route. Kinda stressful for me, but hey, climbing is all about adventure??
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Tue 6th Jun 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Boulder Canyon Sherwood Forest | ||||||
5.12b | ★★ Prince of Thieves — 2 attempts - with Ben | 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Quickest 12b in a while! Rode the send train kicked off by Ben after he did his best OS ever! This is #20! Also in a drizzle, just like #19! A couple of boulder problems separated by 5.10 climbing.
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Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Boulder | ||||||
Boulder Canyon The Narrows Avalon Second Tier Three Walls | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Free Fall - with Matt, Ella, Flo, Ken | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This is #19. Eveloped in the mist of the Rocky Mountains, I stood on the verge of clipping the anchoors, and thus having climbed more 5.12s than I ever had in a single year, now surpassing my previous best year, which was 2013. Light rain washed away all the self-chasing, all of the nostalgia for better times, and all of my previous life, given my personal circumstances. I now walk uncharted territory, unafraid and excited about the challenges that lay ahead. Did it on my first go of the day whilst placing draws! It felt sooooo much easier than when I was close to sending it a couple of years back. Stuck everything perfectly, and had to do no big effort at the crux. Easy 12a for sure, but 12a nontheless. Clutch moment to get it, as the harder rain began soon afterwards!
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Sat 27th May 2023 - Nuorese | ||||||
Cala Gonone Biddiriscottai First Grotto | ||||||
5b | ★ Vai Tossina! - with Isabel | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really mellow, nice and techy route! Isa did great on this!!! Definitely great to see her overcome technical parts of this climb
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Sat 20th May 2023 - El Vellón | ||||||
Las Placas | ||||||
4 | ★ Diedro patatín patatán - with Isabel | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Antfest! Set this up for Isabel since it seemed easier than the 5 way out left, but there was a path of tiny ants that stung and swarmed more painfully than they looked. Easy but hard to focus!
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Sat 20th May 2023 - El Vellón | ||||||
Monódromo 2 | ||||||
4+ | El humito del porrito - with Isabel | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Techy, footy, and short. Isabel's first outdoor rock climb. Impressive considering the techy character of the route, and the fact that she's only done less than 10 climbs ever, including gym climbs! Great headspace for sure!
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7a+ | ★★ So pedo — 2 attempts - with Isabel | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Number 18. 18 5.12a or higher climbs in 2023. 18 of these done in 3 different countries, 7 different crags, and 33 wonderful companions. This marks the most of that grade range I've done in since 2013, and tied the most I've done in a year, ever, nigh the eve of my 40th birthday. This comes after the most difficult year of my life, in 2022. Once again, climbing has shown me that any challenge can be overcome with perseverance, self-belief, discipline, self-care, self-love, breathing, and decisiveness. Doing this to a beautiful, overhanging, juggy, powerful, short, and fun climb, with the best company I could possibly imagine, is truly a dream come true. Here's to the start of my new life! Number 19, here I go!
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Wed 3rd May 2023 - Margalef | ||||||
Ca La Marta | ||||||
6b | ★★ Los trampolines son para el verano - with Ben, Michael | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Chill and cool line with a hard start and techy but cool climbing for the rest of the route. Setting up TR for Ben and Michael
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