Ascents in Lake Tahoe, California Side as various tick types by Pavel Burov

Offwidth fun!

Two last pitches are fun hike with a great exposure.

Some route finding, some balancy moves.

80m rope is enough to rappel to the ground.

Climbing this route is probably the easiest way to toprope any route on Upper Spire.

A high quality indoors-gym-like toprope. All holds are good, lot of good rests. Creative footwork (heel-hooks, drop-knee, etc) is beneficial all the way up.

There is one move in the corner below the roof that is very like to Hospital Corner crux. If you can climb this corner up and down smooth you are ready for the best .10a at Lover's Leap.

Move over the roof can be done smooth and statically. It's a footwork and body positioning puzzle for some climbers and it worth to be completed.

A clean run before a clean lead.

To toprope it lead extremely well bolted Candyass.

Bring a 60m rope and a lot of shoulder slings to prevent rope drag. One pitch.

Very soft and probably overrated extremely well protected sport .10. A lot of next to perfect rests between moves.

Bring a long 48" sling, #1 red and #2 yellow C4 + one shoulder sling, and a cordelette to toprope Harding's Other Chimney and Candyass.

Fun lead, solid protection (two long 48" slings, about 5 shoulder slings, Metolius cams from #00 gray to #2 yellow, one optional #3 blue C4 with extension at the very top crack).

With 70m rope it's possible to reach in one pitch a good belay ledge. After it there is mostly 4th class terrain with occasional 5.easy moves.

It's better to climb it in approach shoes.

The first and the second pitches are fun. It's better to climb it in approach shoes. Start with headlamps to avoid traffic.

My first try on the route was not successful - hangdoged just after reaching the vertical crack and placing a #1 blue Metolius cam in it.

Very soft. Good rests between moves.

A good crack climbing exercise. Perfect hand and foot jams all the way up.

Easy to toprope the lower half (green to yellow C4 to build an anchor).

Warm up climb.

It's easy to toprope Corn Flakes from Unnamed anchor by traversing to the left and setting a directional (green to yellow C4).

It's sustained. Eats a lot of small cams.

An interesting start with a couple of thin moves and a boring straightforward soft finish.

Note, the bolt is very rusty and probably need a replacement.

It's an easy way to reach to top of the Upper Spire (nice view). From there one can rappel to toprope any route.

Soft. Some laybacking, some face moves.

Very soft. Left variation is a good liebacking exercise. Right variation is much softer (probably .8).

To make it a little bit harder and more interesting climb it in approach shoes. I was unable to use some footholds with my Five Ten Guide Tennies so I smeared thru the crux. It was fun.

A good stemming exercise. Ensure you can do it smooth and fast before leading Fear of Flying.

A very soft and extremely well protected sport .10.

An easy warm up. Traverse to the left and topping out by The Prow (.10b, sport, well protected, soft) is recommended.

A very good stemming and thin crack climbing exercise. One of the few routes in my "to repeat" list.

Occasionally missed the left turn and leaded on-sight the second pitch of Pigs on The Wing (5.9). After that made a fun 5.easy traverse to the bushy ledge.

Soft. Good protection. Start it early to avoid traffic at the last pitch.

Solid protection, some fun moves. High quality route.

Soft. The only interesting move is over the roof in the beginning of the 2nd pitch.

A nice chimney adventure.