Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 17th Dec 2023 - Hidden Face | ||||||
22 |
★★★ Psycho-Man
- with
Dan Johnson
1
2
3
| 95m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The second pitch is a classic. It took about 1 hour exactly to walk into the top of the route. Hardest moves are probably on pitch 1, but pitch 2 is very sustained technical off vertical wall climbing.
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Wed 15th Nov 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Odyssey | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ Ya Agori Mou - with Lee Cujes, Sammi | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Would be classic if it didn't fight for independence with Elies at the crux. On-sight fight foiled at the crux. Tried to go direct. At the crux, the bolts are one foot left of your left hip, and their is a ticked sidepull jug for the right hand at 2pm. When you grab it, a bolt on Elies is at your right elbow. So it's all a bit compressed at the crux.... Easily second go.
|
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6c | ★★ Troya - with Lee Cujes, Sammi | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another great addition. Bouldery start, with a committing deadpoint to a blind sloping dish that luckily had good texture. Then an excellent broccoli slab to a rest below the steep finish. Save some biceps strength for the anchor clip, or better, look for a knee bar.
|
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6b+ | ★ Athina - with Lee Cujes, Sammi | 18m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Good addition. Felt brutally hard on the shared top section where it steepens and the holds are polished. Still hot from the walk up, and immediately covered in a sheen of sweat, it was a slippery flash pumped battle to the chain.
|
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Tue 14th Nov 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Arginonta Arginonta | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ Money Crushing Machine - with Lee Cujes, Sammi | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First day of cooler northerly conditions. Went for the on-sight but badly misread the top. No problem second go. First and last thirds excellent, middle third detracts.
|
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Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Poets | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Wala Wala - with Roger Parkyn | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good climb. Start felt a bit goey as a warm up. Clipped an early bolt of a mono.
|
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Fri 10th Nov 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Afternoon | ||||||
6c | ★★ Lady in Black Ext - with Roger Parkyn | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Warm up continuation.
|
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5c+ | ★★ Lady in Black - with Roger Parkyn | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pleasant.
|
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Wed 8th Nov 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Arginonta Arginonta | ||||||
6c+ ~6c | ★★ Romance of Stone - with Roger Parkyn | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The first ten metres of steep tufa climbing is classic. Where the angle eases, it's still good climbing to the chains, but much easier, maybe 6a+?.
|
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6b ~6b+ | ★★ Kosmas - with Roger Parkyn | 30m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had to pull very hard on the crux.
|
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Tue 7th Nov 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Vathy Griffig | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ Timba Climber — 2 attempts - with roger, Lee Cujes | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lovely route. First half requires some route finding up lots of positive big pockets. Fell on the thin face crux on the on-site (along with a lot of others going by the mass of chalk and show rubber at the crux). Found a sequence and did well to send second go.
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Griffig Goes to Kalymnos - with roger | 36m, 19 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Seconded Roger to clean as a warm up. Not sustained, but a long atmospheric route from the bottom to the top of the crag.
|
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6b+ | ★★ Chuchichäschtlitripp - with roger | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Enjoyed this one. Lots of locking off good positive jugs.
|
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Sun 5th Nov 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Afternoon | ||||||
6a | ★★ Svinelli - with Roger | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent warm up, climbing a juggy crack like feature.
|
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6c | ★★ Panacea - with Roger | 32m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Apparently I have done this before, and thought it "good". I'm upgrading it to very good. Perhaps the 10 years of traffic have smoothed some prickly holds, or perhaps I'm now more easily pleased. I made the crux hard for myself, by reading the best sequence of good one pad sidepulls with some hip twists using two obvious two pad flat 45 degree footers that were glistening glassily, and deciding that my trust level was low and I would revert to some good old fashioned front on mingging crimping.
|
||||||
Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Arginonta Arginonta | ||||||
6c | ★★ Anna Maria - with Roger | 25m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Banger. Great rock up a juggy tufa flow to arm bar rest below crux steepening. Drop a gear and commit to the sustained and sequency section above. Parkyn had the nerve to stop to chalk up in the middle of the crux, where I had just had to sprint to the rest.
|
||||||
6b | ★★ Bôrhok - with Roger | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I remember nothing, other than it was great.
|
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6a | ★★ Pornokini - with Roger | 28m, 14 | ★ Good | |||
Some corally holds down low, but nice spaced in cut holds up high. All these routes are longer than they look to be from the ground.
|
||||||
Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Arginonta Arginonta Valley Alani Wall & Mona Lisa | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Rufixius - with Roger | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quick afternoon sugar rush in the shade. As the season winds down, there were "only" 36 climbers on Alani Wall and maybe 76 on the whole crag. One of the locals said 2 weeks before she had counted over 110 people at the whole crag. So elbow room increasing at the most popular crag on the island.
|
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Fri 3rd Nov 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Iannis | ||||||
6c Hard | ★★ Maya - with Sam | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had to try hard, very hard. Felt harder than the 6c+ two routes to the right. Thought I was off for three moves on the thin black wall at half height, and was on a close run countdown timer on a clip higher up. The low clips (where the fence could be a factor in a fall are off good holds).
|
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Fri 3rd Nov 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Poets | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Délicatesse... - with Sam | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The initial steep bouldery wall is easier than it appears, and the thin wall up high is technical and thoughtful.
|
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Fri 3rd Nov 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Cœur d'Armeos | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Lord Dur - with Sam | 42m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Real rope stretcher. Got to witness an amazing fight to the chains effort on the route to the left from a lady trying her first 6a and giving it everything. Great to see.
|
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6a | ★★ Bar Bar - with Sam | 36m, 18 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This wall always delivers.
|
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Wed 1st Nov 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Afternoon | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Swiss Baby - with roger | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Ended up finishing up the extension on the route to the right. Great long pitch.
|
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6b | ★★ Jana's Kitchen - with roger | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great Route. A little polished, but still well worthwhile. I found a couple of sections very hard for the grade. Was also struggling with sore finger and thumb pads from squeezing some miserable crimps earlier in the day.
|
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Tue 31st Oct 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Odyssey | ||||||
7a | ★★ Ulisse Coperto di Sale - with roger | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent reachy climbing between spaced jugs, except for the difficult to read crux sequence where there is some T Rex moves on slopey pinches. Easily 2nd shot.
|
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6a+ | ★ Mon Amour - with roger | 28m | Average | |||
Thin bouldery start (that I fell off). Nice long arete in good position up high. Does feel a little contrived keeping to the arete though.
|
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Mon 30th Oct 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Iannis | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ La Mer et le Vent - with roger | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quality reduced by the last 10m of rambling slab. Excellent first part. Lots of technical shallow pocket sequences between good rests.
|
||||||
Mon 30th Oct 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Cœur d'Armeos | ||||||
6a | ★★ A tes Souhaits - with roger | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good value off vertical journey.
|
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Fri 27th Oct 2023 - Upper Pinios Valley | ||||||
Meteora Southern Group Holy Ghost | ||||||
7- |
★★★ Wahnsinnsverschneidung
- with
roger
1
6-
35m
2
6
35m
3
6+
15m
4
7-
35m
5
6+
25m
6
5+
35m
7
5-
| 180m, 20 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Cracker. Four pitches of right facing corner system. Then two pitches of black water streak. Laybacks for days. Led P1, P3, P5+P6 as combined pitch. We were a bit nervous about only having a set of wires, and a single set of cams up to BD3, but there are more bolts than expected, including on the wide crack pitch of P4. Basically, there will fairly consistently be a bolt every 6 to 8 metres up the route, so a single set of wires and cams is enough.
|
||||||
Thu 26th Oct 2023 - Upper Pinios Valley | ||||||
Meteora Southern Group Adrachti | ||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Gordian Knots - with roger | 40m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Worth the long wait. Climbed as single pitch (needs two or three long slings to manage rope drag). Felt hard for the grade, but brilliant positions. Crux was rapping off while using Rogers MegaJul. God I hate the thing. Roger wouldn't let me throw it into the jungle, so I had to throw it away onto a gravel path so Roger could retrieve it. I then offered him 100 euro to buy it off him so that I could smash it with a rock 'office space printer style'. He isn't selling. He has two and seems to insist his multi pitch partners use one. It's some form of pycopathy where he enjoys inflicting pain.
|
||||||
6b | ★★ Silken Thread - with roger | 40m, 14 | ★ Good | |||
Climbed the first pitch (to anchors under the 7b). Tidy.
|
||||||
Wed 25th Oct 2023 - Upper Pinios Valley | ||||||
Meteora Southern Group Holy Ghost Guardian | ||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Black Magic - with roger | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Climbed as a single mega pitch. Awesome. Steepening black water groove for 45m. Being in the narrow cleft between Holy Ghost and Holy Ghost Guardian, is nicely hidden from the sun.
|
||||||
Tue 24th Oct 2023 - Upper Pinios Valley | ||||||
Meteora Southern Group Holy Ghost | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Way of the Water - with roger | ★ Good | ||||
Lead the first pitch, after we rapped the route to get down off the tower. First pitch is nice thin climbing up a black water groove on small polished pebbles. Well worth doing.
|
||||||
5+ |
★★★ Pillar of Dreams
- with
roger
1
5+
35m
2
5
35m
3
5+
20m
4
5
20m
5
5
20m
6
5
20m
7
4+
35m
8
4
35m
9
5+
35m
| 260m, 17 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Great Route. We combined pitches 3 to 5, and 6 to 7. Very runout in places, including a couple of traverses with no gear to keep the seconder focused.
|
||||||
Fri 4th Aug 2023 - Sand River | ||||||
BBQ Crag Shadow Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Deep State | 19m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ Witch Hunt | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
17 | ★ Enemy of the People | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ Annica | 17m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
16 | ★ Stormy(y) in a D Cup | 16m, 7 | Average | |||
14 | ★ Keep Calm and Carry On | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 29th Jul 2023 - North West Bay River | ||||||
Dog Leg Bend Main Cliff | ||||||
20 | ★★ Golden Chihuahua | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool route.
|
||||||
Fri 12th May 2023 - Sand River | ||||||
The Panopticon Panopticon Central | ||||||
23 | ★★ Pain — 3 attempts - with parkyn | 17m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Not sure how I've never tried this before. It's pretty awesome. Fell at the reachy crux on the onsight. Took a fair bit of work sitting on the rope to find a sequence that worked for me. I ended up using left hand Gaston, high feet, right hand up to jug at 11 o'clock.
|
||||||
19 | ★ Break Out - with parkyn | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had done the start before as part of the 20. The low corner is pretty cruxy and committing.
|
||||||
14 | ★ Wormwood Scrubs - with parkyn | 17m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
A good addition.
|
||||||
20 | ★★ Deconstructionism - with parkyn | 25m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Cool climbing. The slab move and the hanging corner are topnotch, the middle third is a bit rambly
|
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Thu 17th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | ||||||
Kokkinovrachos Olympos | ||||||
6c+ | ★ La mina - with gazz | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Memorable route. Fell of the boulder start. Stemmy palmmy cornering up high. Cool sector.
|
||||||
Thu 17th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | ||||||
Kokkinovrachos Jupiter | ||||||
6b+/c | ★★ Amiral - with gazz | 25m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not bad. I don't remember much about it....
|
||||||
6b+/c | ★★ Lykakia - with gazz | 30m, 16 | ★ Good | |||
Last climbing day. Crag was quiet, great! Zero breeze, humid. Not great! Everyone else is smarter than me.... Route is a bit scrappy down low, but then is lovely climbing.
|
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Tue 15th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | ||||||
Elona H.A.D.A. | ||||||
6c+ | ★ Brownie - with gazz | 20m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Brutal boulder problem start, stick clipping bolt 1 a good idea. Felt hard for the grade.
|
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6b | ★ Medousa - with gazz | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Tricky getting over the low bulge.
|
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Mon 14th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | ||||||
Elona H.A.D.A. | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Michael Bekyros - with gazz | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warmed up on this. Hot in the sun and a bit of polish made the bouldery start plenty awkward.
|
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6c | ★ Happy New Year - with Lee Cujes | 20m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Interesting and engaging climbing. Loses some quality points at the top where three routes all come close to merging, and it's unclear about what is in, and what is out.
|
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6c | ★★ Gastone Duck - with gazz | 22m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cleaned up an old dog. Sustained crimpy faceclimbing. Quite a bit of route reading required.
|
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Fri 11th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | ||||||
Elona Elona Upper | ||||||
7a+ | ★ So Ill | 22m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Reachy and powerful climbing in the first half.
|
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6b+ | ★ White Rabbit | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Looks short and poxy, but the first 8 metres offers brilliant climbing.
|
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6b+ | ★ Last Chance for a Slow Dance | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
A climb for those with a sophisticated palate. Sure the bolting is a bit weird, sure the rock is a bit sharp in places, but offers unusual rock architecture and a thrilling finale.
|
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Wed 9th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | ||||||
Elona Panórama | ||||||
7a | ★★ From Berlin to Bombay - with gazz | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fell of the awkward bouldery start. Restarted and managed the rest ok. Good climbing. Has a good rest at 3/4 height before the final bulge to the chains.
|
||||||
6b | Lou - with gazz | 20m, 10 | Average | |||
Ten metres of nice climbing at the top doesn't rescue the ten metres of ramble at the bottom.
|
||||||
Tue 8th Nov 2022 - Leonidio | ||||||
Kokkinovrachos Jupiter | ||||||
7a+ 7a/a+ | ★★ Clean Your Clock - with gazz | 25m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fingery crux at the bottom, then a bouldery crux up high. Had to drop the clutch on the high crux.
|
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6c+ | ★★ Metalizer - with gazz | 25m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climb, and a viable warm up. Builds in difficulty to a crux on smallish holds up high.
|
||||||
6c+ | ★ Aufzug zum Olymp - with gazz | 30m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Looks like it has been cleaned and (re?) Bolted very recently. Really interesting climbing up a number or flake systems. Quality will improve as the dust clears from the cleaning.
|
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Sat 5th Nov 2022 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Arginonta Arhi Balcony Helvetia | ||||||
6c | ★★★ The End of Mythos - with gazz | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
There will be no end to mythos consumption on this trip. Great climb. Punchy commiting moves down low, some power needed at the bulge leaving the flake system, them a delicate traverse and anchor clip that I almost dropped.
|
||||||
6b+ | ★★ Kalo Taxidi Yiayia Mou - with gazz | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tidy warm up.
|
||||||
Thu 3rd Nov 2022 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Arginonta Arginonta Valley Rock Tragos Wall & Rock'n Roll Cave | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ Radiohead (Radiohed) - with gazz | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Climbed this well. Long steep moves to a rest, then a technical headwall. Managed to get lost and punt of the headwall, but sorted it out next go.
|
||||||
6a+ | ★★ Ravasaki - with gazz | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
A bit sharp and inconsistent. Ok as a warm up.
|
||||||
6a 6a+ | ★★ Zephyros - with gazz | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good stuff. Some two finger pockets and underclings.
|
||||||
6c+ | ★★ Zephyros Ext - with gazz | 30m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Technical wall climbing on small positive crimpy side pulls. Clips are a bit tricky.
|
||||||
Wed 2nd Nov 2022 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Kandouni Saint Photis Icare | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Cartier - with gazz | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Scrappy first 5 metres, then classy gymnastic climbing up high.
|
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Mon 31st Oct 2022 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Arginonta Arginonta Valley Alani Wall & Mona Lisa | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Tricky-Tricky Mana Mou - with gazz | 28m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This felt nails. Sequence of small sharp crimps over a bulge with not great feet. I wouldn't have argued if someone told me it was 6c+.
|
||||||
6a+ | ★★ Patókorfa (Patokorfa) - with gazz | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This wall just keeps delivering the quality.
|
||||||
Sun 30th Oct 2022 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Skalia Galatianí | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Sunrider - with gazz | 33m | ★ Good | |||
Had some nice moves in sections, but was a bit to sharp to be pleasant.
|
||||||
Sun 30th Oct 2022 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Arginonta Arginonta Valley Rock Tragos Wall & Rock'n Roll Cave | ||||||
7a | ★ Naughty Monkey Ext - with gazz | 35m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
In the guide as an extension but would be better to climb it as a seperate route from the rock&roll cave. Steep and insecure moves above the ledge then awesome steep underclings and sidepulls. I dogged up the first three draws to eliminate the ledge fall before ticking.
|
||||||
5c 5b+ | ★ Naughty Monkey - with gazz | 20m, 9 | Average | |||
Sun 30th Oct 2022 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Arginonta Arginonta Valley Alani Wall & Mona Lisa | ||||||
6b 6a+ | ★★ Thunder Road - with gazz | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent wall climbing on spaced incut pockets.
|
||||||
Fri 28th Oct 2022 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Arginonta Summertime Summer Wine | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Beru - with gazz | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Nice shady vertical wall. A couple of awkward bulges above ledges where it's not clear whether to go direct past the bolts, or to the side and maybe into an adjacent route detracts
|
||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Mr Rigolo - with gazz | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The artist previously known as Captain heel hook. Heel hook deployed and successful.
|
||||||
6c | ★★ Antonis Lampos - with gazz | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Time to try something steeper. Looked like it would have lots of knee bars so I strapped up and set out. Awkward cruxy mantle at the start, then cool overhanging feature. Spent 15 seconds trying to find a knee bar, realised it was terrible and I am still incompetent at knee bars. Considered trying again, but just abandoned the thought and gunned to the top. Pumped at the anchors, had to climb high to find a jug I could clip from.
|
||||||
Fri 28th Oct 2022 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Vathy Griffig | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Alpine-Experience - with gazz | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Upskill lifetime support plan activated, with draw placement and tick marks courtesy of Australian Moon Daddy making life easy. Classic route that requires technique and route reading, with a sting in the tail that makes taking some time resting before committing important. Grades here are evolving... Not 7b, I don't think I'm fit enough for 7a+, but perfect route for my style being all about forearms and feet so could be 7a/7a+...
|
||||||
6c | ★★ Lou+Zoe - with gazz | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fingery first three or four moves lead to pockets and good edges. Gets very close to Pestalozzi in the middle (may share some holds even) that detracts.
|
||||||
6c | ★★ Pestalozzi - with gazz | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This crag has a lot of interesting rock, nice flake face holds, featured pockets. Really interesting climbing. With shade and easy access it will be really popular, but I think the rock type here will polish quickly which is a shame.
|
||||||
6c+ 7a | ★★ Millionenbach - with gazz | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rock looks a bit dirty / grotty from the ground, and while clean, there is something about the rock on the route that is a little unpleasant. Climbs well though. The initial thin wall looks blank from the ground, but has big holds that are reachy. The rooflet and sidepull wall above required some commitment.
|
||||||
Tue 25th Oct 2022 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Odyssey | ||||||
5c | ★ Bonnie - with gazz | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Doest look like much, but nice climbing.
|
||||||
6b | ★ Clyde - with gazz | 20m | Average | |||
Good moves, but painfully sharp.
|
||||||
6b+ | ★ Mikrotera Kalamarakia - with gazz | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Had to work hard. Good stuff.
|
||||||
Mon 24th Oct 2022 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Cœur d'Armeos | ||||||
6a 6a+ | ★ Été Indien - with gazz | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Didn't enjoy this as much as senza freni, mostly because I was crushed with no warning at all by the rope being pulled by the party on the route to the left. All part of life's grand tapestry.
|
||||||
6b | ★★ Senza Freni - with gazz | 32m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Picked this as a warm-up based on the time tested criteria that it's about the right grade, and was one of the only routes free in a seathing mass of humanity. Looked a poxy slabby ramble weaving through bushes. Actually, was great climbing.
|
||||||
Mon 24th Oct 2022 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Ivory Tower | ||||||
6b | ★ Schnügu - with gazz | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really enjoyed this. First few metres are a bit sharp and awkward untill you get to the clean orange rock under the capping roof. Them it's lovely technical steep off vertical climbing.
|
||||||
6a+ | ★ Am Abgrund - with gazz | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Worthwhile. It's a little run out, and there is a closely bolted route just to the right that detracts, as when it feels run out, there is a bolt a metre to the right on the other line that confuses the issue.
|
||||||
Sun 23rd Oct 2022 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Odyssey | ||||||
4b | ★ Eumeo - with gazz | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First day on the island. Rocked up to the crag at 3pm, just as it is coming into sun. Not best practice, but good to get moving after 36 hours of travel. Nice slab with interesting chunks of conglomerate pebbles.
|
||||||
4a | ★ Midas - with gazz | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
More nice slabbing.
|
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6a+ | ★ Haryvdi - with gazz | 19m | ★ Good | |||
Nice climbing. A bit of polish on the low footers required some care.
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Mon 23rd May 2022 - Sand River | ||||||
Colosseum Area Plebeian Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ No more heroes - with Dan Johnson | 18m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Lots of complaining from the rope monkey about some lichen and moss in the top half. I of course rather than complain took action (and a brush) and gave it a polish. Unsurprisingly the (by that stage) belay monkey then complained about dirt and grit falling into his eyes. At some stage he will toughen up.
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17 | ★ Working Class Hero's - with Dan Johnson | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★★ Riffraff Roof - with Dan Johnson | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
11 | ★ Via Appia - with Dan Johnson | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
21 | ★ Pleb's Rusticus - with Dan Johnson | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★★ Tory Tossers - with Dan Johnson | 11m | ★ Good | |||
You really have to drop the clutch and commit on this one.
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21 | ★ The Proletariat - with Dan Johnson | 9m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent climbing on small spaced incut holds. Well worth doing, but it's a bit of a faff getting to it.
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Sun 24th Apr 2022 - Bare Rock | ||||||
Main Face | ||||||
21 |
★★ Black Fire
1
21
40
2
3
4
| 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First pitch only. Good technical stabbing, with enough stances to allow for reading the route. 70m rope with belayer on ground get climber back to the belay on the low ledge.
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