Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 29th Dec 2013 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso Golgotha | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Ghost Rider | 27m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Warm up. Always feels a bit tricky.
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23 | ★★ Gethsemene | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Intense from bolt 3 to 5. Im not sure how I didnt fall off. Brutal crux sequence on sidepulls with poor feet moving right to and past bolt 4.
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Fri 27th Dec 2013 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress | ||||||
23 22 | ★★ Berts Butter Menthol | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Well I actually had a rest at the crux, but ive redpointed this sucker before, so just putting the tick on 'the record'.
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Thu 26th Dec 2013 - The Paradiso | ||||||
17 | ★ High Noon | 10m, 4 | ||||
Warm up, and testing of tweaked rh lumbrical. Workable with buddy taping. Note to self, if doing maximum 2 finger hangs, taking no rest between front 2 and back 2 to save time is not a winning strategy.
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21 | ★★ Man's Machine | 32m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fair bit of swell meant a bit of wind blown spray kept things a bit damp on an otherwise low spooge day. Stick clipped bolt 2, climbed up then tried to put a new draw on to un-backclip, but back-clipped again. Tried again, back clipped again. Got mega pumped and almost fell off. Held it together. This route is pretty run out
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Sun 15th Dec 2013 - Freycinet National Park | ||||||
Hazards Cliffs Mt Amos Mt Amos North Face | ||||||
23 | ★★★ The Usual Suspects | 50m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Epic granite journey. Ten metres of easy corner to get to the first bolt, then follow the steel and holds untill the holds dissapear into slabville. We rapped of the 2 hanger belay, to the belay on AB, then rapped again.
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19 | ★ I Wish She Were Mine | 17m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
The start looks juggy. Its not! Ambush crux. Well played granite, well played.
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22 | ★ No Friends Nutter | 17m, 7 | Average | |||
Felt a bit gritty in spots. Looks like a hold has broken off too.
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22 | ★★ Fin D'amour | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sweet delicate sharp arete at the top. Had to yo yo up and down the crux before finding something that would work.
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Sun 8th Dec 2013 - The Paradiso | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Too Tall Oxen | 32m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Always a pleasure. No rouge waves today, but Roger P did knock a large pile of choss in my direction which kept things interesting.
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21 | ★★ Shock Wave | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Back at the Paradiso! Weather looked marginal, and there was much spooge on arrival at 2pm. Conditions were fair from 4 to 7. Shock Wave felt hard today. No chalk or tick marks! How the hell are you supposed to climb when the holds are hard to find?
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Thu 14th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Grande Grotta | ||||||
5c 6a | ★ Happy Girlfriend | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had to try something I was capable of getting up clean. Strenuous anchor clip.
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Wed 13th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Panorama | ||||||
6c 6c+ | ★★ Cyclops | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome. Delivers exactly what it promises when you look at it.
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7a | ★★★ Chnosi Family | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent sustained climbing. Almost came off the top, when I went a bit high before moving right. Just able to reverse and recomsider. Classy Freddie Blassie.
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7a+ | ★★★ Reptil | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Classic may be a slight stretch, but I had a blast on this. Probably the route I have enjoyed most on this trip. Takes a fingery slabby wall, then climbs a 20m long single tufa system that gets fatter the higher you go. I only just managed to catch its tail, and layback up it to a rest, then had moments of indecision on the steep fingery crux on its left wall, before hurling myself onto its back in a moment of desperation, and somehow sticking on then riding the annaconda to the chain
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6c+ 7a | ★★ Cigarillo | 28m | ★ Good | |||
Some poxy rock down low, and the bolts are starting to look pretty rusty. Nice climbing in the tufas in the top half.
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6b+ | ★★ Panselinos | 20m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Felt mega pumped on this.
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Mon 11th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Arginonta Arhi Arhi Main | ||||||
6a 6a+ | ★★ Orione | 25m | ★ Good | |||
We popped in for some easier angled climbing after the morning at sikati. Lasted one route for me. Nice climb.
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Mon 11th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Sikati Bay Sikati Cave | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Armata Sikati | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climbing, almost a rare mega classic vote from me. No real hard moves, and good rests are available, it will come down to whether you have the stamina for the final section of laybacking and sidepulling up the tufas.
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7a | ★★★ Lolita | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lolita was a stunning temptress, however she has enjoyed a greattime with many suitors, and is starting to show her age. Still amazin. I had to take several rests, and wasnt sure if I had the stamina for a second round. Luckily, I did.
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Sun 10th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Kamari Symplegades | ||||||
6c | ★★ Rabat | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This extension is excellent, with technical steep slabbing on an immaculate rounded arete a long way above the ground. An 80m rope will get you back to the ground. Borderline classic, and feels technically a grade or two easier than the other 6c's at the crag.
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6b | ★★ Neanderthal | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice thuggy line, requiring some grunting and snorting.
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6c+ 6c | ★★ TNT | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The crux at 3/4 height felt nails! Thought I was off.
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6b | ★★ Opera | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Bit annoying that this shares the same finish and chain as Drama. I imagine there would be plenty of that in Sept/Oct when the crag is packed and there are always climbers on both routes.
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6a | ★★ Climbers' Nest | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6c 6b+ | ★ Iason | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This route looks rubbish (it starts looking better when it gets in the shade!), but actually climbs really well. Plus you have to use a mono! Sweet.
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Sat 9th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Ivory Tower | ||||||
6c | ★★ Aypa | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Good technical face, with a physical blocky roof.
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6a+ | ★ Bloc Volant | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Strange diaganal line, has some nice climbing. Tricky at the end mounting the diving board block.
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7b+ | ★★★ The Craic | 36m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Had to use the full bag of tricks to tick this, including taping my thigh to make a knee bar comfortable, and skipping 3 clips. Third shot today. Pretty sore after contorting myself into the big hole to try to recover. Phhhhhew.
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Sat 9th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Kalydna | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Golden Oriole | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Felt like a bit of a squeeze job, and also felt hard for the grade to me. Better than a poke in the eye.
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Fri 8th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Telendos Irox | ||||||
6a+ | ★ The Magic Circle | 18m | ★ Good | |||
This looked the best of the available routes. Not bad, bit sharp on the tips in spots.
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Fri 8th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Telendos South Face - Multi-Pitches | ||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Wild Country | 270m | ★★★ Classic | |||
With Eric. With an 80m rope we did this in 4 pitches (eric p1-3, and p6-7). Taking the 8am ferry, and getting dropped at the base, we topped out at 11.30. The walk off took longer than the climb. About half the climbing on the route is great, which is not bad for such a lomg route. If your climbing in the 6's, it would be testing. If your climbing in the 7's, its a great actibe rest day, as you get to see the island of Telendos.
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Thu 7th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Spartan Wall | ||||||
7a+ 7a | ★★ Kurva | 38m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Draw retreival mission after yesterdays rain. Some say that I may have grabbed the chain and that as such this was not a valid ascent. My sporting hero Lance Armstrong once said "I'll say to the people who don't believe, the cynics and the sceptics: I'm sorry for you. I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles."u
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Wed 6th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Spartan Wall | ||||||
6b | ★ Spaßpartour (Spasspartour) | 45m | ★ Good | |||
Tried to fit some climbing in before it rained. Pretty atmospheric with strong wind and thunder. The climb? So, so.
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Mon 4th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Kalydna | ||||||
6c | ★★ Uschana | 35m | ★ Good | |||
The grey rock in the top half was super wet today. Needed the breeze!
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6c+ 7a | ★★ Theodora | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Didnt look like much from the ground, but interesting and super technical steep slab.
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6b 6b+ | ★★ KalyNikhla | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Starting to get a bit worn, but classicville up the sequency tufa blobs.
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6c+ | ★★ Calida | 28m | ★ Good | |||
Not bad. Like a lot of the routes on this wall, you need to ooze and udge your way through a few sections.
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Sun 3rd Nov 2013 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Odyssey | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Odisseo (Odissey) | 20m | Average | |||
Hard to get to enthused about this route. Easy start, hard crux, easy finish.
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6a+ | ★★ Nausicaa, Nausicaa | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm down gold. The rock on this route is like delicious chocolate ice cream with penut chunks mixed through it. Really, thats not a metaphor for how sweet the climbing is, thats what it looks like!.
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5c+ 6a+ | ★ Penelope | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Nothing particularly memorable. Upgraded to 6a+ in the 2010 guide, the crux still feels harder.
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6c+ 7a | ★★ Caribbean Wedding (Carribbean Wedding) | 20m | ★ Good | |||
The top half is great, reachy and bridgy. The initial easy slab detracts.
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7b+ | ★★★ Inti Raymi | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
While still reeling from the news last night that the 2.30 gyros shop is closing today and the family is moving to Melbourne, I managed to hold it together to get the tick. Sweet. Top felt super solid, but I managed to again fall of the easy middle section by getting lost.
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Fri 1st Nov 2013 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Iannis | ||||||
7a 7a+ | ★★ Attitude | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Liked it, liked everything about it. Well, I didnt like that it spat me off near the top as I thied to follow the masses of chalk and traverse to the left sidr of the final arete, but I cant blame the route for that. Actually I couldnt work out how to do that move, so just cranked straight the right side of the arere via bridging and small pockets. The bolts make sense with this sequence. Physical and pumpy gold. Get on it.
|
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6c+ | ★★ Adolf in the Bay | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tidy.
|
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6b | ★★ Kalyne | 30m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Improved with height.
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6b+ | ★ Fence Guest | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Pretty sustained and long. No lower off! Had to remember how to go in hard and thread through the rings. Effort!
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6a | Kalotina | 15m | Average | |||
Four metres of quality climbing at the top. The remaider failed to impress.
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Thu 31st Oct 2013 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Palionisos Secret Garden | ||||||
6c+ 7a | ★★ Apocalypse | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
While others focused on the iconic tufa routes in the centre of the crag, I focused instead on the techy bridgy slabby goodness on the right. This felt tough for the grade.
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7b | ★★ Stigma | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Quality climbing, with a definate crux leaving the low tufa blobs and getting established on the black streak. This route gets two thumbs up.
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6b+ | ★ Nissos Pita | 25m, 10 | Average | |||
A bit dirty, and uneven in quality.
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Wed 30th Oct 2013 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Spartan Wall | ||||||
7a 6c+ | ★★ The Siege of Thermopylae | 33m, 14 | ★ Good | |||
Really had to think through the sequency crux at 3/4 height.
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6c | ★★★ Lucifer's Hammer | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Has an outstanding 15?m section on white marble like stone. Other people doing this route seemed to be belaying from the ground, not the top of the access ramp.
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6b | ★★ Problème Mineur (Probleme Mineur) | 32m, 14 | ★ Good | |||
Ordinary start, but really liked the top.
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Wed 30th Oct 2013 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Spartacus | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Ziegenpeter | 18m | Average | |||
First half is great, then it decomposes into an easy slab.
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6b | ★★ Astree | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This extension is great, big moves between positive holds. Long extention draws help with rope drag.
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6c+ | ★★★ Aphrodisia | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice to clean up an old dog. Borderline classic. Still felt hard for the grade to me, but then I probably missed 10 obvious no hand rests (obvious to people with knee bar competence).
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6b+ | ★★ Le 13ème Travail d' Hercules (Le 13eme travail d' Hercules) | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Doesnt look too inspiring from the ground, but is the best of the long slabby routes on Spartan Wall that ive done so far.
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Mon 28th Oct 2013 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Odyssey | ||||||
7a | ★ Fouska | 12m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
After belaying Ben's record setting accent, on which he managed to drop the rope while trying to clip the chains an amazing 8 times and still tick, I had to have a razz. Short, steep, and plastered in chalk. Given I was worried about hitting the left wall of the cave if I blew a clip, I thought it only fair to bridge off it. My groin now feels rooted, and not in the way I would like it to be.
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5c+ | ★ Lotophagos (Lotofagos) | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warm up. I quite enjoyed this.
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6c 6c+ | Lotophagos Ext (Lotofagos extension) | 21m | Average | |||
Jezus. Thought id continue up this for the warm up. Felt absolutly nails hard, thought I was off three times. Ended up wedged in a prickly trench trying to recover before fighting to the chains drencehed in sweat. Possibly not the ideal warm up. Although I cant deny I was warm after it.
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6c | ★★ Ciao Vecchio (Ciao Vecio) | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good route, similar in style to its neihbours, although at least the crux is not at the top for once.
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Sun 27th Oct 2013 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Panorama | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Lothar Scie | 20m | ★ Good | |||
We forgot the guide, so it was a bit of guesswork about which routes to try.
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6c+ | ★★ Lothar Là (Lothar la) | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome extension. Found this pretty pumpy, and only had just enough juice to hold on to the small holds where it slabs over at the chains.
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6c+ | ★★ Uncle Bert | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Steep bouldery start, then a balancy wall with some sharp holds.
|
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7a+ 7a | ★★ Steps Ahead | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This looked good from the top of uncle bert, so continued on. Straightforward climbing on massive tufa features, before a bouldery move above the last bolt to reach the chain. Easily second shot. I think this would be better with the chains 2 metres lower, as a 6b+ extensions to uncle ernie.
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6b 6b+ | ★★ Uncle Ernie | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sweet route up a nice black tufa feature.
|
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6c | ★ Gwundernase (Gwundernasa) | 20m | Average | |||
I thought this was a bit dirty and scrappy. Felt pretty hard for the grade too.
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Fri 25th Oct 2013 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Kalydna | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Sickle | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice route, not sure why people dont seem to be climbing it (im only going by the lack of ticks on thecrag). Long, sustained, with the crux battling the pump to get to the chain. Do yourself a favour and get on it.
|
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7b | ★★ Aurora (Historical) (Aurora) | 52m | ★★★ Classic | |||
As a dog returns to its vomit, so it was I found myself back at this bit of unfinished business from last trip. Thought it would take a few goes, but did it pretty comfortably first go. All those long pumpy pitches in spain seemed to have the route fitness up. Sweet.
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6c | ★★ Mamy Nova | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bit dicky to get to, but worth it for the stemming up the overhanging groove.
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Fri 25th Oct 2013 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Poets | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Oreads | 25m | ★ Good | |||
First route of the trip. Not bad. A bit sharp in spots, but nice and sustained.
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6c+ 6c | ★★ Reins Beaux | 35m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Worthwhile.
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Fri 18th Oct 2013 - Céüse | ||||||
Demi Lune | ||||||
6a | ★ Sea Sex And Sun | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
6b 6a+ | ★★ Couilles de loups (Couille De Loup) | 20m, 11 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Chant de cristal | 25m | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Papyrus | 25m | ||||
6a | ★★ Petit Monstre | 17m, 9 | ||||
6a | ★ A Patrick | 20m | ||||
Thu 17th Oct 2013 - Mont-ral | ||||||
Per Dins | ||||||
6b | ★ Eau De Sovac | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Felt hard for 6b. Worthwhile though.
|
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6a+ | ★★★ Bad Religion | ★★★ Classic | ||||
This route is in a nice shady chasm, a good escape from the heat. Also a top route. Cranking up an aerete on sidepulls, very un limestone like.
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Thu 17th Oct 2013 - La Riba | ||||||
zona penya roja Penya Roja | ||||||
6b+ | ★★★ La Via De Bryan | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great climbing again, but the sun was cooking. To hot to enjoy.
|
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6b+ | ★★ Directa Reus | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Only did first pitch, there was a warning note at the base about p2. Not sure why, the bolts looked fine. Gymnastic start on incut pockets.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Directissima | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice long pitch. Either classic or polished choss depending on your point of view. Any route with ancient pitons gets thumbs up from me.
|
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Mon 14th Oct 2013 - Margalef | ||||||
Racó de les Espadelles | ||||||
7a 6c+ | ★★ Iler-Crack | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6c | ★★ Guirlache | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
6b | ★★ Ni pa ti (Route#4) | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b+ | ★★ Ni pa mi (??) | 16m | ★ Good | |||
7a | ★★ Reventuning | 19m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
6b | ★ No M'agradaria ser Martell | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 14th Oct 2013 - Arboli | ||||||
El Falco | ||||||
6c | ★★★ La Millor De ... | 32m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
The routes on this wall are all class.
|
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6c+ 7a | ★★ Trenca'm Els Pinyos | 60m | ★★ Very Good | |||
1st pitch only. Was going to link it into Animal.
|
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7a+ | ★★★ Chanidanger | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Another classic long pitch. A 70m rope will get you to the ground from the top anchor.
|
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Sat 12th Oct 2013 - Montsant | ||||||
Racó de Missa | ||||||
7a 7a+ | ★★★ Purolitic | 35m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Only did pitch one. Great route on incut pockets.
|
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6b+ | ★★ Antiparkes | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Warm up following a crack system. Ok climbing.
|
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Sun 6th Oct 2013 - Arboli | ||||||
El Falco | ||||||
6c | ★★ Melissa | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got rained on just as things got slabby. Tenuous.
|
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7a+ | ★★★ Pa Ella Y Pa Los Guiris | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
First try today.
|
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7a | ★★ Salmo Ventitrés (Salmo Ventritres) | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had to work hard on this.
|
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7b | ★★ Vermella directa | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Took a fall on the thin bouldery start, then easily 2nd try.
|
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6b+ | ★★ Borinot First Pitch | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classic |