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Ascents climbed between 2013-01-01 and 2013-12-31 as various tick types by o_g

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 180 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sun 29th Dec 2013 - Hillwood (private land)
Matto Grosso Golgotha
19 Ghost Rider Sport 27m, 10 Classic
Warm up. Always feels a bit tricky.

 
23 Gethsemene Sport 18m Good
Intense from bolt 3 to 5. Im not sure how I didnt fall off. Brutal crux sequence on sidepulls with poor feet moving right to and past bolt 4.

 
Fri 27th Dec 2013 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress
23 22 Berts Butter Menthol Sport 30m Classic
Well I actually had a rest at the crux, but ive redpointed this sucker before, so just putting the tick on 'the record'.

 
Thu 26th Dec 2013 - The Paradiso
17 High Noon Sport 10m, 4
Warm up, and testing of tweaked rh lumbrical. Workable with buddy taping. Note to self, if doing maximum 2 finger hangs, taking no rest between front 2 and back 2 to save time is not a winning strategy.

 
21 Man's Machine Sport 32m, 10 Very Good
Fair bit of swell meant a bit of wind blown spray kept things a bit damp on an otherwise low spooge day. Stick clipped bolt 2, climbed up then tried to put a new draw on to un-backclip, but back-clipped again. Tried again, back clipped again. Got mega pumped and almost fell off. Held it together. This route is pretty run out

 
Sun 15th Dec 2013 - Freycinet National Park
Hazards Cliffs Mt Amos Mt Amos North Face
23 The Usual Suspects Sport 50m, 14 Classic
Epic granite journey. Ten metres of easy corner to get to the first bolt, then follow the steel and holds untill the holds dissapear into slabville. We rapped of the 2 hanger belay, to the belay on AB, then rapped again.

 
19 I Wish She Were Mine Sport 17m, 7 Good
The start looks juggy. Its not! Ambush crux. Well played granite, well played.

 
22 No Friends Nutter Sport 17m, 7 Average
Felt a bit gritty in spots. Looks like a hold has broken off too.

 
22 Fin D'amour Sport 20m, 5 Good
Sweet delicate sharp arete at the top. Had to yo yo up and down the crux before finding something that would work.

 
Sun 8th Dec 2013 - The Paradiso
22 Too Tall Oxen Sport 32m Classic
Always a pleasure. No rouge waves today, but Roger P did knock a large pile of choss in my direction which kept things interesting.

 
21 Shock Wave Sport 13m, 5 Very Good
Back at the Paradiso! Weather looked marginal, and there was much spooge on arrival at 2pm. Conditions were fair from 4 to 7. Shock Wave felt hard today. No chalk or tick marks! How the hell are you supposed to climb when the holds are hard to find?

 
Thu 14th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Grande Grotta
5c 6a Happy Girlfriend Sport 15m Very Good
Had to try something I was capable of getting up clean. Strenuous anchor clip.

 
Wed 13th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Panorama
6c 6c+ Cyclops Sport 20m Very Good
Awesome. Delivers exactly what it promises when you look at it.

 
7a Chnosi Family Sport 30m Classic
Excellent sustained climbing. Almost came off the top, when I went a bit high before moving right. Just able to reverse and recomsider. Classy Freddie Blassie.

 
7a+ Reptil Sport 40m Classic
Classic may be a slight stretch, but I had a blast on this. Probably the route I have enjoyed most on this trip. Takes a fingery slabby wall, then climbs a 20m long single tufa system that gets fatter the higher you go. I only just managed to catch its tail, and layback up it to a rest, then had moments of indecision on the steep fingery crux on its left wall, before hurling myself onto its back in a moment of desperation, and somehow sticking on then riding the annaconda to the chain

 
6c+ 7a Cigarillo Sport 28m Good
Some poxy rock down low, and the bolts are starting to look pretty rusty. Nice climbing in the tufas in the top half.

 
6b+ Panselinos Sport 20m, 12 Good
Felt mega pumped on this.

 
Mon 11th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos
Arginonta Arhi Arhi Main
6a 6a+ Orione Sport 25m Good
We popped in for some easier angled climbing after the morning at sikati. Lasted one route for me. Nice climb.

 
Mon 11th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos
Sikati Bay Sikati Cave
7b Armata Sikati Sport 35m Classic
Great climbing, almost a rare mega classic vote from me. No real hard moves, and good rests are available, it will come down to whether you have the stamina for the final section of laybacking and sidepulling up the tufas.

 
7a Lolita Sport 25m Very Good
Lolita was a stunning temptress, however she has enjoyed a greattime with many suitors, and is starting to show her age. Still amazin. I had to take several rests, and wasnt sure if I had the stamina for a second round. Luckily, I did.

 
Sun 10th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos
Kamari Symplegades
6c Rabat Sport 45m Very Good
This extension is excellent, with technical steep slabbing on an immaculate rounded arete a long way above the ground. An 80m rope will get you back to the ground. Borderline classic, and feels technically a grade or two easier than the other 6c's at the crag.

 
6b Neanderthal Sport 18m Very Good
Nice thuggy line, requiring some grunting and snorting.

 
6c+ 6c TNT Sport 20m Very Good
The crux at 3/4 height felt nails! Thought I was off.

 
6b Opera Sport 20m Good
Bit annoying that this shares the same finish and chain as Drama. I imagine there would be plenty of that in Sept/Oct when the crag is packed and there are always climbers on both routes.

 
6a Climbers' Nest Sport 28m Very Good
6c 6b+ Iason Sport 20m Very Good
This route looks rubbish (it starts looking better when it gets in the shade!), but actually climbs really well. Plus you have to use a mono! Sweet.

 
Sat 9th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Ivory Tower
6c Aypa Sport 30m Good
Good technical face, with a physical blocky roof.

 
6a+ Bloc Volant Sport 20m Good
Strange diaganal line, has some nice climbing. Tricky at the end mounting the diving board block.

 
7b+ The Craic Sport 36m Classic
Had to use the full bag of tricks to tick this, including taping my thigh to make a knee bar comfortable, and skipping 3 clips. Third shot today. Pretty sore after contorting myself into the big hole to try to recover. Phhhhhew.

 
Sat 9th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Kalydna
6b+ Golden Oriole Sport 30m Good
Felt like a bit of a squeeze job, and also felt hard for the grade to me. Better than a poke in the eye.

 
Fri 8th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos
Telendos Irox
6a+ The Magic Circle Sport 18m Good
This looked the best of the available routes. Not bad, bit sharp on the tips in spots.

 
Fri 8th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos
Telendos South Face - Multi-Pitches
6a+ Wild Country Sport 270m Classic
With Eric. With an 80m rope we did this in 4 pitches (eric p1-3, and p6-7). Taking the 8am ferry, and getting dropped at the base, we topped out at 11.30. The walk off took longer than the climb. About half the climbing on the route is great, which is not bad for such a lomg route. If your climbing in the 6's, it would be testing. If your climbing in the 7's, its a great actibe rest day, as you get to see the island of Telendos.

 
Thu 7th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Spartan Wall
7a+ 7a Kurva Sport 38m Very Good
Draw retreival mission after yesterdays rain. Some say that I may have grabbed the chain and that as such this was not a valid ascent. My sporting hero Lance Armstrong once said "I'll say to the people who don't believe, the cynics and the sceptics: I'm sorry for you. I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles."u

 
Wed 6th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Spartan Wall
6b Spaßpartour (Spasspartour) Sport 45m Good
Tried to fit some climbing in before it rained. Pretty atmospheric with strong wind and thunder. The climb? So, so.

 
Mon 4th Nov 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Kalydna
6c Uschana Sport 35m Good
The grey rock in the top half was super wet today. Needed the breeze!

 
6c+ 7a Theodora Sport 30m Very Good
Didnt look like much from the ground, but interesting and super technical steep slab.

 
6b 6b+ KalyNikhla Sport 25m, 9 Classic
Starting to get a bit worn, but classicville up the sequency tufa blobs.

 
6c+ Calida Sport 28m Good
Not bad. Like a lot of the routes on this wall, you need to ooze and udge your way through a few sections.

 
Sun 3rd Nov 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Odyssey
6a+ Odisseo (Odissey) Sport 20m Average
Hard to get to enthused about this route. Easy start, hard crux, easy finish.

 
6a+ Nausicaa, Nausicaa Sport 28m Very Good
Warm down gold. The rock on this route is like delicious chocolate ice cream with penut chunks mixed through it. Really, thats not a metaphor for how sweet the climbing is, thats what it looks like!.

 
5c+ 6a+ Penelope Sport 18m, 7 Good
Nothing particularly memorable. Upgraded to 6a+ in the 2010 guide, the crux still feels harder.

 
6c+ 7a Caribbean Wedding (Carribbean Wedding) Sport 20m Good
The top half is great, reachy and bridgy. The initial easy slab detracts.

 
7b+ Inti Raymi Sport 35m Very Good
While still reeling from the news last night that the 2.30 gyros shop is closing today and the family is moving to Melbourne, I managed to hold it together to get the tick. Sweet. Top felt super solid, but I managed to again fall of the easy middle section by getting lost.

 
Fri 1st Nov 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Iannis
7a 7a+ Attitude Sport 20m, 9 Classic
Liked it, liked everything about it. Well, I didnt like that it spat me off near the top as I thied to follow the masses of chalk and traverse to the left sidr of the final arete, but I cant blame the route for that. Actually I couldnt work out how to do that move, so just cranked straight the right side of the arere via bridging and small pockets. The bolts make sense with this sequence. Physical and pumpy gold. Get on it.

 
6c+ Adolf in the Bay Sport 20m Very Good
Tidy.

 
6b Kalyne Sport 30m, 12 Good
Improved with height.

 
6b+ Fence Guest Sport 30m Good
Pretty sustained and long. No lower off! Had to remember how to go in hard and thread through the rings. Effort!

 
6a Kalotina Sport 15m Average
Four metres of quality climbing at the top. The remaider failed to impress.

 
Thu 31st Oct 2013 - Kalymnos
Palionisos Secret Garden
6c+ 7a Apocalypse Sport 20m Very Good
While others focused on the iconic tufa routes in the centre of the crag, I focused instead on the techy bridgy slabby goodness on the right. This felt tough for the grade.

 
7b Stigma Sport 20m Classic
Quality climbing, with a definate crux leaving the low tufa blobs and getting established on the black streak. This route gets two thumbs up.

 
6b+ Nissos Pita Sport 25m, 10 Average
A bit dirty, and uneven in quality.

 
Wed 30th Oct 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Spartan Wall
7a 6c+ The Siege of Thermopylae Sport 33m, 14 Good
Really had to think through the sequency crux at 3/4 height.

 
6c Lucifer's Hammer Sport 40m Very Good
Has an outstanding 15?m section on white marble like stone. Other people doing this route seemed to be belaying from the ground, not the top of the access ramp.

 
6b Problème Mineur (Probleme Mineur) Sport 32m, 14 Good
Ordinary start, but really liked the top.

 
Wed 30th Oct 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Spartacus
6a+ Ziegenpeter Sport 18m Average
First half is great, then it decomposes into an easy slab.

 
6b Astree Sport 35m Very Good
This extension is great, big moves between positive holds. Long extention draws help with rope drag.

 
6c+ Aphrodisia Sport 35m Very Good
Nice to clean up an old dog. Borderline classic. Still felt hard for the grade to me, but then I probably missed 10 obvious no hand rests (obvious to people with knee bar competence).

 
6b+ Le 13ème Travail d' Hercules (Le 13eme travail d' Hercules) Sport 35m Very Good
Doesnt look too inspiring from the ground, but is the best of the long slabby routes on Spartan Wall that ive done so far.

 
Mon 28th Oct 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Odyssey
7a Fouska Sport 12m, 7 Good
After belaying Ben's record setting accent, on which he managed to drop the rope while trying to clip the chains an amazing 8 times and still tick, I had to have a razz. Short, steep, and plastered in chalk. Given I was worried about hitting the left wall of the cave if I blew a clip, I thought it only fair to bridge off it. My groin now feels rooted, and not in the way I would like it to be.

 
5c+ Lotophagos (Lotofagos) Sport 16m, 6 Very Good
Warm up. I quite enjoyed this.

 
6c 6c+ Lotophagos Ext (Lotofagos extension) Sport 21m Average
Jezus. Thought id continue up this for the warm up. Felt absolutly nails hard, thought I was off three times. Ended up wedged in a prickly trench trying to recover before fighting to the chains drencehed in sweat. Possibly not the ideal warm up. Although I cant deny I was warm after it.

 
6c Ciao Vecchio (Ciao Vecio) Sport 20m, 10 Very Good
Good route, similar in style to its neihbours, although at least the crux is not at the top for once.

 
Sun 27th Oct 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Panorama
6b+ Lothar Scie Sport 20m Good
We forgot the guide, so it was a bit of guesswork about which routes to try.

 
6c+ Lothar Là (Lothar la) Sport 35m Very Good
Awesome extension. Found this pretty pumpy, and only had just enough juice to hold on to the small holds where it slabs over at the chains.

 
6c+ Uncle Bert Sport 20m Good
Steep bouldery start, then a balancy wall with some sharp holds.

 
7a+ 7a Steps Ahead Sport 30m Very Good
This looked good from the top of uncle bert, so continued on. Straightforward climbing on massive tufa features, before a bouldery move above the last bolt to reach the chain. Easily second shot. I think this would be better with the chains 2 metres lower, as a 6b+ extensions to uncle ernie.

 
6b 6b+ Uncle Ernie Sport 20m Classic
Sweet route up a nice black tufa feature.

 
6c Gwundernase (Gwundernasa) Sport 20m Average
I thought this was a bit dirty and scrappy. Felt pretty hard for the grade too.

 
Fri 25th Oct 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Kalydna
7a+ Sickle Sport 35m Very Good
Nice route, not sure why people dont seem to be climbing it (im only going by the lack of ticks on thecrag). Long, sustained, with the crux battling the pump to get to the chain. Do yourself a favour and get on it.

 
7b Aurora (Historical) (Aurora) Sport 52m Classic
As a dog returns to its vomit, so it was I found myself back at this bit of unfinished business from last trip. Thought it would take a few goes, but did it pretty comfortably first go. All those long pumpy pitches in spain seemed to have the route fitness up. Sweet.

 
6c Mamy Nova Sport 20m Very Good
Bit dicky to get to, but worth it for the stemming up the overhanging groove.

 
Fri 25th Oct 2013 - Kalymnos
Armeos Poets
6a+ Oreads Sport 25m Good
First route of the trip. Not bad. A bit sharp in spots, but nice and sustained.

 
6c+ 6c Reins Beaux Sport 35m, 12 Good
Worthwhile.

 
Fri 18th Oct 2013 - Céüse
Demi Lune
6a Sea Sex And Sun Sport 20m, 7 Good
6b 6a+ Couilles de loups (Couille De Loup) Sport 20m, 11
6b+ Chant de cristal Sport 25m
6a+ Papyrus Sport 25m
6a Petit Monstre Sport 17m, 9
6a A Patrick Sport 20m
Thu 17th Oct 2013 - Mont-ral
Per Dins
6b Eau De Sovac Sport 14m Good
Felt hard for 6b. Worthwhile though.

 
6a+ Bad Religion Sport Classic
This route is in a nice shady chasm, a good escape from the heat. Also a top route. Cranking up an aerete on sidepulls, very un limestone like.

 
Thu 17th Oct 2013 - La Riba
zona penya roja Penya Roja
6b+ La Via De Bryan Sport Very Good
Great climbing again, but the sun was cooking. To hot to enjoy.

 
6b+ Directa Reus Sport Very Good
Only did first pitch, there was a warning note at the base about p2. Not sure why, the bolts looked fine. Gymnastic start on incut pockets.

 
6a+ Directissima Sport Very Good
Nice long pitch. Either classic or polished choss depending on your point of view. Any route with ancient pitons gets thumbs up from me.

 
Mon 14th Oct 2013 - Margalef
Racó de les Espadelles
7a 6c+ Iler-Crack Sport 20m, 7 Very Good
6c Guirlache Sport 20m, 8 Classic
6b Ni pa ti (Route#4) Sport 16m Very Good
6b+ Ni pa mi (??) Sport 16m Good
7a Reventuning Sport 19m, 7 Good
6b No M'agradaria ser Martell Sport 16m Good
Mon 14th Oct 2013 - Arboli
El Falco
6c La Millor De ... Sport 32m, 12 Classic
The routes on this wall are all class.

 
6c+ 7a Trenca'm Els Pinyos Sport 60m Very Good
1st pitch only. Was going to link it into Animal.

 
7a+ Chanidanger Sport 35m Classic
Another classic long pitch. A 70m rope will get you to the ground from the top anchor.

 
Sat 12th Oct 2013 - Montsant
Racó de Missa
7a 7a+ Purolitic Sport 35m, 14 Classic
Only did pitch one. Great route on incut pockets.

 
6b+ Antiparkes Sport 20m Good
Warm up following a crack system. Ok climbing.

 
Sun 6th Oct 2013 - Arboli
El Falco
6c Melissa Sport 22m Very Good
Got rained on just as things got slabby. Tenuous.

 
7a+ Pa Ella Y Pa Los Guiris Sport 27m Classic
First try today.

 
7a Salmo Ventitrés (Salmo Ventritres) Sport 20m Very Good
Had to work hard on this.

 
7b Vermella directa Sport 20m Very Good
Took a fall on the thin bouldery start, then easily 2nd try.

 
6b+ Borinot First Pitch Sport 20m, 6 Classic

Showing 1 - 100 out of 180 ascents.