Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sat 18th Dec 2010 - Cat Ba Island | ||||||
Butterfly Valley | ||||||
7c+ | ★★★ Monarch | 25m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Batted higher than average today. I think the crux is easier for long reaches, as I was able to move into the crack statically. Really, just excellent climbing. Though the final overhang isn't as hard as the rest, its still very fun climbing, from the bottom until clipping the anchors.
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24 7b | ★★ Freakonomics | 27m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent climbing, beginning to end.
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16 6a | ★★ Rome to Hanoi express | 19m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 17th Dec 2010 - Cat Ba Island | ||||||
Butterfly Valley | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Thanks For The Memories | 31m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This route is a bit overrated -- I'd almost go with 11d (7a). Regardless, the climbing is very fun. This sector is one of the best at the crag.
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8a | ★★★ ...Or the Railway (My Way or the Railway) | 28m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Spent a bit on this one, worked out the moves. Would need at least another couple goes before the RP I think. Stout, thin, tweeeeky.
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6b | ★★ The Grass Is Always Greener | 23m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very fun route.
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Thu 16th Dec 2010 - Cat Ba Island | ||||||
Butterfly Valley | ||||||
15 5c | ★ Bread and Butter | 23m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Wed 15th Dec 2010 - Vịnh Lan Hạ | ||||||
Hawaii 5-0 Wall | ||||||
6b | ★★ Blasphemy | 14m | ★ Good | |||
6a | ★★ Hands & Knees | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7a+ | ★★ Bang Baby | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Wed 15th Dec 2010 - Cat Ba Island | ||||||
Ben Beo Harbour | ||||||
7b | ★★ Big Brown B-Hole | 19m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rough warm up... Tough business at the end.
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7b | ★★★ Animal | 20m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A couple cruxes -- the dyno even for me felt long. The upper section has a phenomenal sequence of fun fun climbing. Great route.
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Tue 14th Dec 2010 - Cat Ba Island | ||||||
Butterfly Valley | ||||||
7a 7a+ | ★★ My Way | 18m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Hard for 7a, and very hard for the onsight. I had the benefit of watching as I belayed. Excellent climbing, one of the best at the crag.
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7b | ★ Chia Tay (New 7b) | 20m, 12 | Average | |||
Some tricky business on this one for the grade. Skipped the last bolt on the rp, by the time you can clip it your just about at the anchor anyway.
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6c+ | ★ Fingerless Pho Man | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Felt hard to me for 11c through the thuggy layback/jamming section. Fun overall, good climbing.
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6b 6a+ | ★ Moustache Massage Man | 8m, 7 | Average | |||
There's a somewhat tricky mantle move at the end, but otherwise its quite soft for this grade.
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Fri 10th Dec 2010 - Vịnh Lan Hạ | ||||||
Offenheimer's Creation | ||||||
5b 6a | Spotlight | 18m, 8 | Don't Bother | |||
Goofy route, but the clients seem to like it...
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Wed 8th Dec 2010 - Vịnh Lan Hạ | ||||||
Offenheimer's Creation | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ 11 Months in the Womb | 23m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
7b | ★★ Snake Skin | 23m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good beta from Duncan helped get me up this one first shot.
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7a | ★ Spit & Let Live | 25m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun climbing, short crux.
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Wed 8th Dec 2010 - Vịnh Lan Hạ | ||||||
Hawaii 5-0 Wall | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Dorakuto Han | 19m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 7th Dec 2010 - Cat Ba Island | ||||||
Butterfly Valley | ||||||
14 5c | ★★ Reggae Rocks (Roots Reggae) | 27m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
Fun climbing through the roots of the tree.
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Mon 6th Dec 2010 - Cat Ba Island | ||||||
Butterfly Valley | ||||||
24 7a | ★★ Windchime of the Ants | 28m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fun, long tufa pulling
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7b | ★★ Muhammad Ali | 22m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard at 7a+, solid at 7b. Great climbing: if not for the momentum breaking chimney through the bird-poop smeared slot, it'd be a classic.
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7c+ 7c | ★★ Flight of the Bumble Bee | 28m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Only got on this one once before we had to leave -- look forward to trying again. Sorted out the upper beta: tricky and very bouldery, very fun.
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20 6b | ★ Argentina's Delight | 29m, 13 | Average | |||
18 6a+ | ★★ Mother Butterfly | 29m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 5th Dec 2010 - Cat Ba Island | ||||||
Butterfly Valley | ||||||
7c 7c+ | ★★ Horseless Samurai | 27m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I think this 7c, or soft 7c+. Fun climbing: if it were more consistently difficult in the upper head wall, it would be a classic.
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23 7a | ★★ Pappi's Paradise | 28m, 14 | ★ Good | |||
Definitely some solid moves at the grade on this one. This day was hot, and it definitely sapped much of my energy. I was happy to stay on.
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22 6c | ★★ Cracker Jack | 21m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Fun moves, good for a rapid warm up.
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Sat 4th Dec 2010 - Cat Ba Island | ||||||
Butterfly Valley | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Buffalo Love | 26m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Unlikely this one is 12a ... but its tons of fun. Good variety - crack through a bulge, up a delicate stemming groove.
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7a | ★★ Up Syndrome | 20m, 13 | Average | |||
Harder than the other 7a's in the area. The line of climbing feels a bit off from the intended line -- affects the overall quality a bit.
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7a 6c | ★★ 50/50 | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
6c 6b+ | ★★★ Elephant Man | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
One of the best at the crag, not hard for the grade, but tons of fun beginning to end.
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6a+ 6a | ★ Where the Wild Things Aren't | 24m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Thu 2nd Dec 2010 - Cat Ba Island | ||||||
Butterfly Valley | ||||||
23 6c+ | ★ A Dengue Ate My Davey | 19m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
A bit convoluted up top -- stay right for the best line.
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7b | ★★★ Prayer Of The Mantis | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Multiple ways through the crux -- fun climbing.
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7a+ 6c+ | ★★★ Miyagi Box Maker | 20m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Crux near the beginning. Nice rock
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6b | ★★ You Enjoy Myself | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b 6b+ | ★★ Very Tot | 21m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
First route we did in Vietnam. Fun climbing, crux near the beginning.
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Sat 27th Nov 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Moutain Crags 白山 White Mountain | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ 西街裸奔 West Streak (West Streak) | 24m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I'd done the start before, but not the upper half.
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Fri 26th Nov 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Moutain Crags 白山 White Mountain | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ 橘子花香 Tangerine Blossom Fragrance (Jiu Jie Hua Xiang (Tangerine Blossom Fragrance)) | 21m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great great route at the grade.
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Wed 24th Nov 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Moutain Crags 白山 White Mountain | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ 两把刷子 Talented (Liang Ba Sua Jie) | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
5.11c | ★ 西门庆 Captain Debauchery (Captain Debauchery ) | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Easier for reach-enabled, I was able to static the crux 'dyno'. Interesting climbing, but not a WM classic by any means.
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5.12b | ★★ 光明节快乐 Happy Chanukah (Happy Chanukah) | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
May be a touch easy, but definitely has a continuous crux. Climbs much better than it looks -- nice to have yet another good route that has relatively little traffic and wear.
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Mon 22nd Nov 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Moutain Crags 白山 White Mountain | ||||||
5.13a | ★★★ 青岛啤酒 Tsing Tao Beer (Tsing Tao Beer) | 27m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Finally! Thought I'd get this 4th go, took me 8 -- very satisfying, great route to say the least.
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Fri 19th Nov 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Moutain Crags 白山 White Mountain | ||||||
5.10d 5.11c | ★★ 火鸟 Fire Bird (Fire Bird) | 14m, 5 | Average | |||
This route is closer to 11c -- and solid at that. Fun, unusual climbing but a bit short and slightly awkward.
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Tue 9th Nov 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
遇龙河地区 YuLong River 白岩 The White Cliff | ||||||
FA ★ Screaming Mantis | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
FA on my first lead attempt. Did some cleaning and inspection. May be hard for the grade -- consensus of those who have done it is that its the hardest of the routes on the wall thus far.
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Mon 8th Nov 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Moutain Crags 鸡蛋山 The Egg The Northeast Face | ||||||
17 5.8 | ★★ Alice in Wonderland | 9m, 3 | Average | |||
Mon 8th Nov 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Moutain Crags 鸡蛋山 The Egg Fantasy Area | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Absent Friends | 21m, 9 | Average | |||
Just ticking off routes in the area today...
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5.11a 5.10d | Pumpy Brewster (Pump Brewster) | 21m, 8 | Don't Bother | |||
Goofy route -- the line would be nice, but it just isn't worth the climbing.
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5.12b | ★★ Mr Greenwood | 21m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
12c. Excellent, technical face, great from beginning to end. Hard clip!
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Fri 5th Nov 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 月亮山 Moon Hill | ||||||
7b+ 5.12b | ★★ Great Leap Upward (Red Dragon p1) | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Many say this is hard at the grade, but it felt about right.
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Thu 4th Nov 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 雷劈山 Lei Pi Shan | ||||||
5.12d | ★★ 魔术手 Sleight of Hand (Sleight of Hand – Da Bao Yu) | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This is confusingly entered in the new guide, but Da Bao Yu and Sleight Of Hand are two new 'lines,' that could be combined into one long line. Da Bao Yu is the line that Andrew Hedesh et al did up the pocketed head wall, left of Power Of One. Sleight Of Hand is Duncan Brown et al's route, just left of Pickpocket.
This ascent is for the (likely 12c or so) Da Bao Yu. |
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Sun 31st Oct 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Moutain Crags 白山 White Mountain | ||||||
5.11b 5.11c | ★ 异常 Abinormal (Abinormal) | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Very hard for hte grade up top. Andrew and I rebolted the first few bolts, so its safer.
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Wed 27th Oct 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Moutain Crags 白山 White Mountain | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ 大刀女侠 Girl With a Machete (Girl With a Machete) | 25m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Some say easy at the grade, but not for me on on-sight. Tricky at the 3rd bolt -- moving through and clipping. Upper section kicks way back in difficulty, but still fun.
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Sun 24th Oct 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 雷劈山 Lei Pi Shan | ||||||
7b 5.12c | ★★★ 惊雷下部 Thunder (Thunder, P1) | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
7b+, and hard for me. Took more tries than usual for me for routes at this grade. Worth every try: this route is fantastic, fun, and relentless. Fell 3 times from the absolute final move before I finally switched my beta and got it.
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Sat 16th Oct 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
田家河 TianJia River 大枪 Big Gun Wall | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Shot | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
5.11b 5.11c | ★★★ Mr Big Gun | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Part of our day where we did every route at the crag.
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5.10d 5.11a | ★★ Lonely Marley | 23m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Part of our day where we did every route at the crag.
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5.10b | ★★ Turn Light | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Part of our tick the crag in day day.
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5.10b 5.10c | ★★ Batman | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super fun! Part of the day where Kre and I ticked every line.
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5.9 | ★ Three Little Bird | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Part of the day where Kre and I ticked every line.
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5.10a | Scar | 12m, 3 | Don't Bother | |||
Sketchy loose block. This was clearly the access pitch to install anchors.
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Thu 14th Oct 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Moutain Crags 白山 White Mountain | ||||||
21 5.10d | ★★ 石狗 Stone Dog (The Stone Dog) | 24m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Tricky move, fun route.
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5.12d | ★★★ 白鬼 White Devil (White Devil) | 28m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Mon 11th Oct 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 月亮山 Moon Hill | ||||||
7c 5.12d | ★★★ Moon Walker | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 9th Oct 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Moutain Crags 鸡蛋山 The Egg Fantasy Area | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ Da Moguai (Da Mogwai) | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun, challenging, balancey --- great!
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5.10d | ★★ The Never Ending Story | 40m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great: can combine pitches, or do as one.
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Sat 2nd Oct 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Moutain Crags 白山 White Mountain | ||||||
6a 5.10c | ★ 蹑手蹑脚 The Prowl (The Prowl) | 17m, 7 | Average | |||
Not much to write home about here, but not bad either. Tricky move mid headwall.
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Mon 27th Sep 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 月亮山 Moon Hill | ||||||
6c 5.11c | ★★ Blue Moon (New Moon (furthest R)) | 23m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
one move crux
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Sun 26th Sep 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Moutain Crags 白山 White Mountain | ||||||
5.11b | ★ 大太阳 Big Sun (The Big Sun) | 17m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Hard move on the traverse, I went to low and fell back tracking. Regression to the mean after my banner day previous.
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Sat 25th Sep 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Moutain Crags 白山 White Mountain | ||||||
5.12c 5.12a/b | ★★★ 凤凰 Days of the Phoenix (The Phoenix) | 26m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
6c+ 5.11b | ★★ 不要汪汪 Wow Wow Mei Yao (Wow Wow Mei Ao) | 26m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
5.10d | ★ 山顶洞人 Cave Man Pitch 1 (Cave Man Pitch 1) | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Closer to 11a in my book. Very fun climbing, if not a bit polished.
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5.10a 5.10c | ★★ 掉链子 The Missing Link (The Missing Link Pitch 1) | 14m, 6 | Average | |||
5.12b | ★★★ 阳朔旅馆 Yangshuo Hotel (Yangshuo Hotel) | 33m, 17 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Good benchmark for the grade
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5.12b | ★★★ 中国白 China White (China White) | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit easier than some of the other 12b's at White Mountain, esp for those with reach.
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Thu 23rd Sep 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 雷劈山 Lei Pi Shan | ||||||
7c+ 5.12d | ★★ 唯一的爱 One Love (One Love) | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Everyone says this is easy for the grade. This was my first 7c+ in 18 years(!) so it took me 10 tries to get it. Definitely my anti-style: hard, bouldery moves.
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Tue 21st Sep 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
遇龙河地区 YuLong River 白岩 The White Cliff | ||||||
22 5.11a | ★★★ 肢体语言 Body Language (Name?2) | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun climbing. White Cliff is a hidden gem.
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23 5.11b | ★★★ 一对一 Mono Yi Mono (Name?) | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Misread this one, got it second shot.
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Sun 19th Sep 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
遇龙河地区 YuLong River 白岩 The White Cliff | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ 湿乎乎 Wet Nelly (Wet Nelly) | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun, a bit bold at the 3rd bolt.
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5.10c | 过敏性反应第二段 Skullduggery & Anaphylaxis pitch 2 (Skullduggery & Anaphylaxis pitch 2) | 4 | ★ Good | |||
Fun move around the corner, good climbing
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22 5.10c | 过敏性反应第一段 Skullduggery & Anaphylaxis pitch 1 (Skullduggery & Anaphylaxis pitch 1) | 17m, 7 | Average | |||
Probably a grade harder for the lower crux.
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5.11b | ★★ 菲尼克斯 Phoenix B.V. (Phoenix B.V.) | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Yet another great White Cliff route that sees relatively little traffic. Short, but excellent, pure tufa climbing.
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23 5.10d | ★★ 蜻蜓 Dragonfly (Dragonfly) | 17m, 7 | ||||
Fri 17th Sep 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 月亮山 Moon Hill | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Heavenly Body | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Thu 16th Sep 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
遇龙河地区 YuLong River 蝌蚪山 Baby Frog Buttress | ||||||
5.9 | ★ 飞龙 Dragon Fly (Dragon Fly) | 20m, 9 | Average | |||
5.7 | 西红柿 Tomato (Tomato) | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
Thu 9th Sep 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 雷劈山 Lei Pi Shan | ||||||
5.11a | ★ 斯洛文尼亚 Jeja (Jeja) | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Tue 7th Sep 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Moutain Crags 鸡蛋山 The Egg The Northeast Face | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ New Decade | 22m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Two distinct cruxes -- one reachy, one tweaky. Good stuff.
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5.9 5.10a | ★★ All the King's Horses | 27m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 3rd Sep 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
遇龙河地区 YuLong River 蝌蚪山 Baby Frog Buttress | ||||||
5.9 | ★ 骗子 Liar (Liar) | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
5.11a | ★ 青蛙马戏团 Kermits Hopping Bouncy Circus (Kermits Hopping Bouncy Circus) | 27m, 11 | Average | |||
5.11b 5.10d | ★★ 世界末日 Judgement Day (Judgement Day) | 30m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 31st Aug 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Moutain Crags 鸡蛋山 The Egg The Northeast Face | ||||||
5.10c 5.10d | ★ Too Much Ecstasy | 22m, 9 | Don't Bother | |||
Sharp, awkward, not so fun. Skip this one.
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Sun 25th Jul 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Moutain Crags 鸡蛋山 The Egg West Face | ||||||
5.10d 5.11a | ★★ From Finland With Love | 27m, 10 | Average | |||
Sun 25th Jul 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Moutain Crags 鸡蛋山 The Egg East Face | ||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Eggstatic | 45m, 16 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 24th Jul 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 雷劈山 Lei Pi Shan | ||||||
5.11d | ★★ 燃烧 Crash and Burn (Crash and Burn) | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 21st Jul 2010 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 月亮山 Moon Hill | ||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Over the Moon | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
As good as it gets -- hard to imagine a better sport line in a better location.
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