Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Tue 22nd Aug 2023 - Toohey Forest | ||||||
Northern area Boulder IV | ||||||
V1 | ★ Princesses Traverse | 4m | ||||
V0+ | ★ Pocket Pullin | 3m | ||||
Tue 22nd Aug 2023 - Toohey Forest | ||||||
Lookout Apollo's Gaze | ||||||
V0 | Not Really Worth the Tick | 2m | ||||
V0- | The Face of Apollo | 2m | ||||
V1 | ★★ Meanjin Memory | 2m | ||||
Cool holds.
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V2 | ★★ First on the Block | 2m | ||||
V2 | ★ Ignore the Hikers | 2m | ||||
This boulder is characterised by nice holds and moves, but a severe lacking of height!
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V0- | Launcher One | 1m | ||||
Tue 22nd Aug 2023 - Toohey Forest | ||||||
Lookout Snakeskin area | ||||||
V0+ | ★ Reclining Buddha | 2m | ||||
V0-/0 | Buddha Belly | 2m | ||||
V0 ~VB | Christine's gaping crack | 2m | ||||
V2 ~V1 | Contrived Crossover | 2m | ||||
Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Toohey Forest | ||||||
Mushroom boulder | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ Kinoko | 4m | ||||
Managed to squeak it but got ridiculously pumped at the top, and had to rest on the slopers like ai was route climbing! Thankfully managed to read the mantle before I got too flamed. Great problem miles easier than the V6
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Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Terrors Creek | ||||||
V4 | ★ Silent Witness - with Rob Bailey, zac, Rachael, Josh | 3m | ||||
Quite nice.
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Sun 21st May 2023 - Springwood Conservation Park | ||||||
The Prow Area | ||||||
V4 | ★★ Wish | 3m | ||||
Great!
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V2 | ★ From the Rich to the Poor | 3m | ||||
V0 | ★ Robinhood Theory | 3m | ||||
V2 | ★★ The Roof Is On Fire | 3m | ||||
V2 | ★★ Flee the Fire | 2m | ||||
V1 | ★ White Streak Right | 3m | ||||
V0 | ★ The Dole Bludger Streak | 3m | ||||
V0 | ★ Schadenfreude Culture | 2m | ||||
V1 | ★ Worth The Squeeze | 2m | ||||
V0- | ★ Lemon Squeezey | 2m | ||||
V0- | ★ Ezee Peezy | 2m | ||||
Mon 15th May 2023 - Girraween | ||||||
Turtle Rock | ||||||
23 | ★★ Voyevoda - with Blake, Scotty B | 22m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Brilliant.
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19 | ★★ The Tempest - with Blake, Scotty B | 10m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 5th Mar 2023 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★ Noose - with Hannah Kennedy | 22m | ||||
Not a bad route! Cool meandering crack with a variety of jams, and not real hard thrutching in the wide sections.
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Tue 28th Feb 2023 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
KP North | ||||||
21 | Where's Rocky? - with Alex Turnbull | 18m | ||||
The top bolt placement is questionable. Tricky to clip when the rest were fine. Decent climbing regardless.
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Mon 27th Feb 2023 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
KP North | ||||||
15 | ★ In The Middle Of A Dream - with Alex Turnbull | 15m, 4 | ||||
Another great beginner lead.
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14 | ★ Smooth Sailing - with Alex Turnbull | 15m, 4 | ||||
These are amongst the best quality low grade routes at KP - great beginner leads on good rock! Get on them!
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Sun 26th Feb 2023 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
KP North | ||||||
21 | ★★ Rear Entry - with Alex Turnbull | 22m, 4 | ||||
Stiff, potentially owing partially to the ridiculous amount of dirt and grass I needed to clean on the way up. Good adventure training. Again, a great line when clean.
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20 | ★ Wallbanger - with Alex Turnbull | 22m, 6 | ||||
Great! Would be even greater with a clean! Getting into the corner is sublime. Beware wasps atop the corner.
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19 | Call the Cops - with Alex Turnbull | 20m, 5 | ||||
Like every route here, would be good with a clean.
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Wed 22nd Feb 2023 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ Tiger's Tail - with Alex Turnbull | 18m, 5 | ||||
Surprisingly I haven't done this before!
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Sun 19th Feb 2023 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
KP North | ||||||
24 | ★★ Miasma - with Alex Turnbull | 20m, 4 | ||||
Fantastic! The first bolt placement is an interesting decision haha, with the runout above it. Great climbing, though this line will get harder over time with the many temporary holds.
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Sat 11th Feb 2023 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ David Mac - with Alex Turnbull | 18m, 3 | ||||
Only used the bolts. No worse than many of the sport routes here realistically haha!
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16 | Dirty Situations - with Alex Turnbull | 18m, 4 | ||||
16 | Razor - with Alex Turnbull | 18m, 3 | ||||
Fri 16th Dec 2022 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
22 | ★★ Badfinger - with Kyle Addy | 30m | ||||
What a good fight! Trutches, arm-bars, a wide assortment of jams, protection galore, and good climbing the entire way. Good wide climbing that I think is only really rivalled by Venom at Frog.
I disagree with the notion of a lower anchor - there's no need for a lower anchor on the face. Future Tense's work fine and it's best to keep the top anchors out of sight from the ground. Stoked to finally do this, and when I'm not especially climbing fit. |
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22 | ★ Yodel up the Valley - with Kyle Addy | 22m | ||||
Not bad climbing the whole way. Probably easy for 22, but it's a bit heady above the bolt! Great climbing up the arete above, with unorthodox placements to bring you through the topout. Great to climb this historical route, even though it's not a classic.
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20 | ★ Back Row - with Kyle Addy | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Climbed this from the top of Yodel Up The Valley, traversing down and left thinking this was Fawlty Towers! Missed out on the first 1-2m of proper climbing but apparently still enjoyed the business.
Cool unexpected position with classy climbing up high! Tricky transition into the hanging offwidth, but figured out a way to do it sans layback - which seemed scary. My experience of this was probably made more interesting by the appearance of an active wasps nest just right of where the crack thins out, forcing climbing to the left of the crack. Scrambled to Rickety Kate's anchors and rapped off. |
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Fri 16th Dec 2022 - Mt Beerwah | ||||||
South Face | ||||||
23 |
★ Divine Comedy
- with
Kyle Addy
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
| 650m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This was actually such a great route, and really good value for a high mileage day for fitness. A lot of terrain covered and great cardio, mixed in with various pitches of actually-good climbing in the crux pitches!
Thankfully the notably-dry winter meant that the entire climb was bone-dry, leaving only dry, dusty lichen. Kyle and I freed all pitches, him freeing the first aid pitch and me freeing the second. The upper aid pitch goes at aroudn 23 in its current state, onsighting and suffering through the dust. With a proper clean it would probably go at 22. Would be cool to exit the roof on pitch 10 next time. Simulled Martian and soloed some low-risk sections. All in all, brilliant route for a brilliant day out! Will be coming back in years to come for pre-trip fitness training. ~8.5hrs car-2-car. |
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Sun 11th Sep 2022 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
15 | ★ Bad Blues | 22m | ||||
Nice! Another classic sub-20s line that's criminal that I haven't done before!
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17 | ★★ Neon Philharmonic Variant Finish | 18m | ||||
Fantastic! Fun climbing in a nice position. Fun traversing in higher, though climbing the crack without the wasps there would be rad in terms of position!
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20 | Drop-out Variant Finish | 5m | ||||
Didn't feel like a 20? Also used the hand crack on the left so I may have avoided the contrivance. Linked with Pibrock
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19 | ★ Pibrock | 20m | ||||
Good jams and stemming that isn't orthodox crack climbing! Good fun and well protectable.
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Sun 14th Aug 2022 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
14 | Trick or Treat | 4m | ||||
Delicately sneaking behind the dead tree that has now fallen upon this "route" was amusing!
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20 | ★★ Sleight of Hand | 8m | ||||
Reccy and laps to warm up for the day and suss out the potential gear on this. (Just a #6 cam in COC to the R).
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22 22 R | ★★ Lord Drool - with Dan Cox | 6m | ||||
Climbed into this off COC at the ledge. Actually decent climbing but a tad contrived just above the bolt to stay on the moderate climbing. Enjoyable headgame keeping cool getting to the first bolt and then to the top.
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Wed 10th Aug 2022 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Brickie's Butt Crack (Left Finish) - with Greg Emmett | 20m, 4 | ||||
Adventures in your backyard. Missed the last bolt which turned out to be right infront of my face. Carrots ftw! Actual decent jamming in the crack if you avoid the holds on the R haha.
Another 2 new ticks at KP! Thanks for the session Greg |
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Mon 25th Jul 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Raptures HB Variant | 40m | ||||
Doesn't look like much from the ground, but really nice climbing, especially the diagonal crack in the second pitch. Great gear, locks, and jams. I linked both pitches for full value, then placed a high piece in Trojan and ducked down into the belay cave, though you could traverse straight across if your second is okay with an easy runout traverse.
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Tue 12th Jul 2022 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
14 | ★ Orchid Alley | 20m | ||||
Awesome! Good pro and thoughtful wide climbing.
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Sun 10th Jul 2022 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Breakfast at Tiffany's | 18m, 5 | ||||
Not bad at all! Didn't have a cam, but it wasn't too bad going to the first bolt though you want to be solid. Could get a good placement to protect the start though. Rest of it is pleasant meandering. Beware choss.
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18 | ★ Mank Mistress | 18m, 5 | ||||
Another decent one. The top is especially enjoyable. Not everyday that I do 3 new climbs for me at KP! Thanks for the sesh Greg
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Mon 27th Jun 2022 - Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||||||
Snake Rock The Buttresss | ||||||
20 | ★★ Snake-in-the-Grass | 15m, 3 | ||||
Harder start into the finish. Love the gear in the horizontal breaks - feels positively Peak District-ian.
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22 | ★★ Red Belly | 12m, 2 | ||||
Woah this took me by surprise! Didn't expect to have to think so much on this, but hey! Granite always surprises me. Thought I was off at the top but managed to hold it together and some frictiony stemming goodness. Found out the night after sending this that Adam Palmer's 9 year old can climb this - how sick is that?!
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19 | ★★ Snakeskin Shuffle | 12m, 4 | ||||
Nice as! Multiple "boulder" arete sequences off ledges. Fun intro to granite aretes.
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Thu 16th Jun 2022 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★ Cannabis Crack | 40m | ||||
How have I not done this before! Stellar climbing the whole way with great protection. Weird thrutching that's not quite offwidth! Superb line that deserves more action
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Sat 2nd Apr 2022 - Mt Tinbeerwah | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Where's The Bolt | 45m | ||||
Sling a shrub and added wire before the first bolt. Quite dirty this one, but pleasant slabbing.
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20 | ★★ Single Gun Theory | 50m, 18 | ||||
Led second and 4th pitch. We thought this was Antipreneurialism so continued along the ledge and topped out. Matt did a mega unprotected traverse pitch along the ledge, then we finish up direct from Anti's 3rd pitch anchor which was fun! Thanks for the great day out Kyle and Matt!
First two pitches were quite nice. |
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17 | ★ The Pursuit of Pleasure | 45m | ||||
Nice slabbing as always at Tinny, even if most the routes do kind of blend into one another in memory haha!
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Sun 13th Feb 2022 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Back in Black | 75m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
One of the most outrageous pitches. When I got to the ledge and thought back to how wild that experience was and felt the rush of dopamine - goosebumps literally ran up my arms. A truly unique pitch.
Great day with Kyle and Nathan. Led P1 and P2. Jugged out our fixed line. P1 was adventurous with good climbing and gear. I have never cleaned off so much bird poo whilst climbing! |
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Sat 12th Feb 2022 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
KP North | ||||||
18 | ★ GR | 20m, 7 | Average | |||
Cool little journey on this! Takes you through interesting features.
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21 20 | ★ Forever Gumby | 20m, 5 | Average | |||
Mostly good rock, but can't remember any part of it and I only did it a few hours ago haha
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17 | ★ EC | 20m, 5 | Average | |||
Pretty chossy, even for KP! Get rid of that one-star haha
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Sun 6th Feb 2022 - Mt Maroon | ||||||
Wedgie's Place Lower | ||||||
19 | ★★ Nothing Much | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty awesome! Splitter crack, good gear. Nice mix of jams, fists, forearm jams, and just a touch of offwidth that you can faceclimb around. Get on it!
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22 | ★★ Something Special | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Quite nice! Felt more like 22 for me at a minimum. Superb small wires.
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Sun 30th Jan 2022 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
23 | ★★ The Guns of Navaronne | 30m | ||||
A classic albeit the sub-par rock high in the corner. Still, good gear most the way and punching through the headwall is mega fun! I was scared of this for so long, but there's nothing to be scared of! Side runner with a big cam in Odin at the top on a separate line.
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Tue 25th Jan 2022 - Cape Raoul | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Certified Wise | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I felt wholly in the zone on this route. Quietly in tune with myself, the movement, the environment around us. A sharp focus, but 360 degrees of awareness. Perfect harmony, the entire way until the anchors. I'm grateful for such an experience as the last climb of what had been an incredible trip.
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18 | ★ Rain Of Terror | 30m | ||||
Bit of poor rock so it's smart to protect the start well incase a face hold breaks. Pleasant warm up along the way.
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Sat 22nd Jan 2022 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
The Gorge - Bouldering Shady Side Bouldering Lamp Post 17 | ||||||
V3 V3/4 | ★★ Henry Barber Arete | 3m | ||||
Great problem actually! Slippery feet at the start
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Sat 22nd Jan 2022 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
The Shady Side Mindless Pinnacle | ||||||
17 | The Average Willy | 8m | ||||
Cool. Used a few hand stacks.
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19 | ★★ The Great Willy | 9m, 4 | ||||
Good holds the whole way
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Sat 22nd Jan 2022 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
The Shady Side Double Dozen Area | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Double Dozen | 11m | ||||
Beautiful climbing and finger locks!
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V2 | ★ Double Dozen boulder problem | 3m | ||||
18 | ★★ Garbo | 11m | ||||
Cool wider jamming. Bit offwidthy.
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17 | ★★ Afternoon Delights | 11m | ||||
Nice jams!
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Sun 16th Jan 2022 - Federation Peak | ||||||
North-West Face and Blade Ridge | ||||||
17 | ★★ Blade Ridge | 420m | ||||
Poor objective climbing on poor rock, though the INCREDIBLE exposure and position more than make up for this! The most unique route I've been on, and a highly valuable experience!
Lucked out with 5 days of no rain out there, though we awoke at 4:30am on Day 3 (our climbing day) to thick mist which made it harder to find the proper blade, ending up starting up the cliff just past the blade. After scrambling up 120m+ of scrub we realised this, abseiled back down into the gully off the R side of Blade Ridge, and fortunately found a way to mount the ridge from here. At first climbing I was a bit out of sorts, not having done much of this style climbing for a long time, but after a few pitches I was back and firing to go. Battling drag is key on this for speed - the answer to this is usually running it out with the many aretes and corners to navigate. Man the ridge climbing is incredible! We reached the top of Blade Ridge at 6pm, and made the decision to not continue up the NW Face through the night and figure out the descent at night. Rapped and traversed into the left gully and climbed out back to camp. Not without loose rock and poor gear, but heavy on exposure and position. Although the NW Face has a greater balance of good climbing movement, good rock, gear, and exposure - in my opinion the pure uniqueness of Blade Ridge trumps this. |
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17 | ★★ The North West Face | 330m | ||||
After having done the Blade the day previously, Ryan and I were going to walk out. However, it was a blue bird day and the disappointment in not being able to climb the NW Face the day was still fresh in our minds. Mid-packing up at around 9am we decided to drag the trip out and climb the NW Face. Our excitement and satisfaction in the epic climbing of the day before propelled us up the NW Face which does not disappoint. Great position, the remoteness, decent climbing in certain sections, and good rock (apart from the roof traverse) makes this a classic!
What a trip blessed with amazing company, a feeling of being in another world, remoteness, uncannily bluebird weather, and out there climbing. Very thankful. |
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Sun 9th Jan 2022 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes The Columns | ||||||
21 | ★★ Dark Nebula | 32m, 17 | ||||
Awesome! Fun the whole way
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20 | ★ Sirius | 40m, 8 | ||||
Took my time finding decent gear through the middle. Three flake was a bit weird. May have been better to run it out a bit instead!
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23 | ★★★ Close to the Sun | 48m, 23 | ||||
Just the first pitch unfortunately, but it was mega fun! Great punchy crux into stellar arete climbing. So much fun!
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Wed 5th Jan 2022 - The Paradiso | ||||||
23 | ★★ Super Charger | 20m, 10 | ||||
Low crux was fun and the top position is class
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17 | ★ Mixed Groceries | 10m, 3 | ||||
The moves up the blank arete were ace.
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21 | ★★ Man's Machine | 32m, 10 | ||||
More runout than I was expecting! Good line and cool bolting
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16 | ★ Unzip | 13m, 5 | ||||
Pleasant
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Sun 12th Dec 2021 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Summit Caves | ||||||
13 | ★ Short And Sweet | 35m | ||||
Quite nice at the grade. Off the deck isn't well protected, but adequate. Didn't feel the need for big gear at the top with good placement of wires. Tree anchor is now dead and gone. I belayed from a group of shrubs up top.
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Sun 14th Nov 2021 - Toohey Forest | ||||||
Main area Warmup Boulder | ||||||
V1 | ★ Galaxy | 3m | ||||
Did these ages ago but never ticked.
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VB | The Far Side | 2m | ||||
Good entry level problem
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V1 | ★ Meteoright | 3m | ||||
V0 | ★ Meteor | 3m | ||||
Sat 13th Nov 2021 - Toohey Forest | ||||||
Main area Circus Boulders | ||||||
V2 | Contortionist Squeeze | 3m | Average | |||
Aptly named as it's a massive squeeze job. Better than it seems though
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Sat 13th Nov 2021 - Toohey Forest | ||||||
Main area Above The Circus | ||||||
V1 | ★ Across The Stage | 2m | ||||
Not bad. The eliminates shouldn't be listed as separate climbs imo. Don't add any quality. Maybe add them in route descriptions JM?
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V1 | Centre Stage | 2m | Average | |||
Not bad!
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Tue 26th Oct 2021 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
KP North | ||||||
16 18 | Trolly's Triumph | 18m, 5 | ||||
Nice climbing, though easy for 18 if you don't go direct up the slab up the top. going direct is very contrived and potential to hit the ledge, so I'd recommend going up one of the corners. More like 16 this way.
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22 24 | ★★ Oh Mighty Gumby | 18m, 6 | ||||
Quite good climbing most of the way! Top to the anchors is pretty crumbly, but in a cool way. I found the 2nd bolt to be strangely off to the right - anyone else find this?
Great work to those who rebolted KP North - very nice to climb some new routes at KP, that stay in the shade longer, too! |
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Tue 26th Oct 2021 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Septuagenarian Sound Effects | 18m, 6 | ||||
Pleasantly surprising climbing - albeit the choss it would be a nice route. Hopefully it cleans up
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Thu 23rd Sep 2021 - Flinders Peak (limited access) | ||||||
Sanctuary | ||||||
24 23 | ★★ Desert Treasure | 24m, 9 | ||||
What a stellar route! That arete section up high is to die for. Fantastic.
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19 | ★ Platycerium | 23m | ||||
Nice route!
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