Ascents as various tick types by Peatey

Not too hard.. on TR 😂 Laybacked the whole first half, didn't square up once, could not have placed gear whatsoever.

“Reptiles are just retarded birds,” said the King of the Birds, “and so I am your King, thank you very much.”

A fun day on the side of a hill that ended up having very little to do with the hill, and much to do with the quality (and patience) of the company I got to share it with.

Approach: We came off The Martian as advertised, mid pitch 8, which was significantly higher and steeper than the hands free rising vegetated traverse that started at about the pitch 7 belay. Would recommend future ascensionists deviate from that route there instead.

I then led Reneé on a merry venture up and down several pitches of soloing, at alternating times slabby, steep and abrasively vegetated. All the while Ryan napped patiently at the base of the actual route. Some time later after a tour of Beerwah's SW saddle we pulled on to Divine Comedy proper.

The Route:

P1 – A bit crumbly but it’s all there. Bolts and a Jesus nut right where you want it. Not a giveaway at 18.

P2 – The cruxy corner crack. The crack was wet where it mattered, which made the 3 distinct crux sections quite... cruxy... to free. Wet and silty as it was, the fingerlocks were bomber and it did force some (committing) but great crack movement. Huge props to Ryan who onsighted the pitch to within 2 foot of the anchor before going for a ride stepping back in from the arête, taking a small garden with him. Could be hard Frog 22 if dry and clean, but I don’t see that ever happening given the location. Reneé managed to second it clean front on jambing up the filthy flared pods in the top third, it’s unclear how normal humans should best approach it.

P3 – Cool traverse under roof, bolt ladder will go free if someone can be bothered to dry off properly after the wet first half of the pitch and brush the inevitable silt off everything on the arête.

P4 – Crack above roof that you can see from The Martian. Short, protectable crack that makes you work harder than you feel you should have to for vertical thin hands.

To the top, follow hangers and line of most solid-ish rock. Climbing bits of this in the evening gloom definitely added to the ambiance.

Topped out to a sunset and the summit and descent to ourselves, delightful.

Easier knowing to stay low on the traverse.

Really fun, not hard but enjoyable movement.

Fun. P1 only.

Not crazy hard, a bit sequency up to the lip, then an inglorious mantle.

Felt good, tied in, pulled hard and suprised myself with the send.

My first Frog 22

Nice to revisit this and do it fairly comfortably.

Cleaning up an old dog.

Cleaning lap

Glorious after the thuggy start

Never too hard, just have to keep it together.

Sorted a bit better beta, still felt desperate.

A fun line with a bit of everything.

After half a dozen more jumps at the start. Low % first move, then mantle and its over.

Straight after a textbook demo by ReneeHelm on the FFA and with real time beta spray, this felt great, nice flowy climbing.

The lip move will be significantly easier if you've got the reach for it.

Had to pounce, but not too reachy.

Not polished. Such a luxury.

One Bluies-esque crimp sequence around the 4th and then jugs for days.

Thought I'd have another go while there was a breeze. Paid off.

To the first? anchor. Huh?

Really good fun. Consistently positive edges to clip off. The flake out R is by far the most natural line.

Crimpy start, punchy finish.

Had to try something while we were here.

One ugly sandy mantle in the middle.

Cleaning lap because the headwall is good fun.

Much easier working the stances.

An easy layback when you don't have stop to place or retrieve gear...

Second shot. Fun climbing up the seam to a pumpy finish on sidepulls and huge jugs. Super solid R kneebar to pull over the lip move relatively easily.

Second shot today, third total. Punctured a tip, sorry about the blood everywhere. Only 22 if you take the ample stemming rests in the corner.

Super pitch. Nicely consistent. Thought I wasn't even pumped till I had to clip the second last bolt.

Second shot. Pleasantly surprised both long moves stuck.

Cleaning, wet.

As hard as baby staysharp for me. Super shallow fingerlocks and delicate feet. Cool but pro could be interesting.

Managed to get up this without aggravating the ribs too much. Only one unavoidable long stretch

Felt unpleasantly contrived but the forced slab sequences out left were good.