Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fri 16th Feb 2024 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Scoop left - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno, Arvin | 18m, 9 | ||||
Everything else around was occupied by Spaniards, so no other choice than warmup onsight
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Fri 16th Feb 2024 - Es Capdellà | ||||||
Catedral | ||||||
6a ~5a | ★★ Sapporo - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mega super soft
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6a/a+ | ★★ Al Capone - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice & technical, not that obvious.
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Thu 15th Feb 2024 - Valldemossa | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
7a | ★ Something — 2 attempts - with Arvin, Jarno | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Quick after shopping visit of the old project: A sleepy teen belayer left me no other choice than to pull through the trick is really to find the right beta through the upper void
|
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Tue 13th Feb 2024 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
5b - c | ★★ Via dels bombers - with LFF, Jarno | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b+ | ★★ La Gaditana - with LFF, Jarno | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Shit, should have led it. Was still too impressed from this shitty 6a slab before. This one is much better.
|
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6a | ★★ Pena negra - with LFF, Jarno | 20m, 12 | ||||
Mon 12th Feb 2024 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Duck | ||||||
6b/b+ | ★★ Princesa Mara - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler, LFF | |||||
6b | ★★ ORC - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler, LFF | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 12th Feb 2024 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Radio 3 | ||||||
NN2 - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 15m | |||||
In sneakers
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NN1 - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 15m | |||||
In sneakers
|
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Sun 11th Feb 2024 - Es Capdellà | ||||||
Catedral | ||||||
5 | ★★ Moretti - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6a | ★★ Ladri di Arange - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 25m, 10 | ||||
Nice and juggy. Very soft, somehow missed the 6a part.
|
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5c | ★★ Lucas - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not that easy versus the end.
|
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6a | ★★ Tierra doy una / Sutra - with Maulwurf, Jarno, Giggler | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice! Both pitches in one go. The second 6a pitch felt easier than the 5c before...
|
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Wed 22nd Feb 2023 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6b |
★★ Relaja la Raja P1
- with
LFF
1
6b
| ★★★ Classic | ||||
An excellent climb! Quite scary over the bulge and then keep your shit together through the upper tufa. The clip after the first bulge is very hard to reach, a panic sling comes in handy.
|
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6c+ | ★★ Cachinochalgo - with LFF | 15m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Ups, gleich im ersten ernsthaften Versuch geschafft! Knapp aber am Ende doch drangeblieben
|
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Mon 20th Feb 2023 - Es Capdellà | ||||||
Unknown | ||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Unknown 6a+ - with LFF | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Above the static rope, looked too nice to not try it. Very cool upper half - keep your body positions sorted. 6a+ as grade is a guess.
|
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Sun 19th Feb 2023 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ La Gaditana - with LFF, Giggler | 24m | ||||
Much easier if you know what to do
|
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5b | ★ Rompesuelos - with LFF, Giggler | 25m, 9 | ||||
Pretty hard very direct version to avoid all the wet tufas.
|
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6a | ★★ Pena negra - with LFF, Giggler | 20m, 12 | ||||
5c | ★★ DJ's Club - with LFF, Giggler | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 6th Nov 2021 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
7a | ★★ Cachinochalgo - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 15m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Definitely an error to try again toprope, once again getting too late and dark and windy and rainy for a real try. Far from at the limit, most likely easier than 7a. Note to self: Get on your projects at the beginning of the day
|
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6b | ★★ Day of the Reflection - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 30m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice and long line with several distinct sections, the crux is to get over the slightly overhanging crimpy wall at the top with a few hard pulls. 2nd go, unluckily too stupid for onsighting this...
|
||||||
6a+ | ★★ La Princesa del Pueblo - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 27m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
5b 5b - c | ★★ Via dels bombers (Via des vombers) - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 5th Nov 2021 - Torre d'en Bèu | ||||||
5c | ★★ Placa - with Giggler | 22m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Warm-up before unluckily rain came in, quite easy for a 5+. Checking out this crag which is not described in any guide - very nice, but seems to require significant editing...
|
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Wed 3rd Nov 2021 - Caimari | ||||||
Hairpin Wall | ||||||
5 | ★ Right - with Arvin, Jarno, Sandra †, Giggler, Yue | 22m | ★ Good | |||
5 | ★ Curving Groove - with Arvin, Jarno, Sandra †, Giggler, Yue | 21m | Average | |||
Tue 2nd Nov 2021 - Sa Font | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Quatre dents i un nas - with Sandra †, Giggler | ★ Good | ||||
Felt pretty easy. But definitely too hot here - kids went on strike. Switching to the beach...
|
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5c | ★★ Quatre dents - with Sandra †, Giggler | Average | ||||
Almost tropical conditions, 25deg, 100% humidity and no shadow, very hard to get motivated . Wow, 3 tries for grade 5 route, short tricky sequence to leave the overhanging part, big jugs otherwise.
|
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Sun 31st Oct 2021 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
To pa ti | ||||||
6b | ★★ The Lion Slayer - with Jarno, Giggler, Yue | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice varied route, the crux ist to leave the big overhanging holes low down. Thermal overload even in toprope after the sun came around, sooo hot and damp today.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Skidmark - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | ★ Good | ||||
Some pretty comitting moves before the anchor if you follow directly the bolts. Might be challenging for the short, but can be escaped to the right.
|
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6a | ★ Itchy feet - with Giggler, Jarno, Yue | ★ Good | ||||
Route #2 of the year short & crimpy, not a present especially in the first half. The muddy holds before the anchor added some spice, too.
|
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Fri 28th Feb 2020 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6b | ★ Enanismo emocional - with LFF | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Unplanned support ascent to LFF. One hard pull incl. clip, then it's over.
|
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6b+ |
★★ Las bolas del chino
- with
Sandra †, Jarno
1
6b+
20m
| 20m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky passage in the middle, it's not really over when you grab the balls. With some beta from below, but since this was what I decided for anyway, I still consider this as onsight. Probably more like 6b?
|
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6c+ | ★★ Hippipunklperriklautico - with Sandra † | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
If you have a slow team, do your project as warm-up! Very smooth go, not even pumped thanks to a new much better beta for the finish
|
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Thu 27th Feb 2020 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ Hippipunklperriklautico - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sustained fingery technical wall climbing & a very hard sequence at the very top, when you already spend all your juice. Still not sure how to exactly clip the chain.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Corrich - with LFF, Giggler, Jarno | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A nice introduction to tufa climbing. Competition style, gets gradually harder vs. the top. The last metres are really not a present, had to fight a bit!
|
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Wed 26th Feb 2020 - Tazmania | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Lucas - with Sandra †, LFF | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Excellent line with a cool layback / crack sequence in the upper part (possibly the only non-slab climb here). Would be classic if a bit longer.
|
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5+ | ★★ Kulunguele - with Sandra †, LFF | ★ Good | ||||
Freaking stormy today, not easy to find a climbable place. Shocked the team by just passing the super crimpy crux with pure reach.
|
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Tue 25th Feb 2020 - Cala Bota | ||||||
5c | ★ El vals del obero - with Sandra †, Jarno, LFF, Giggler | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
No motivation. Let's say: rest day!
|
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5c | ★★ Elmo Love - with Sandra †, Jarno, LFF, Giggler | 11m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Too hot to climb seriously
|
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Mon 24th Feb 2020 - Valldemossa | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
5c | ★★ Dali - with LFF, Sandra † | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quickdraw rescue
|
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Mon 24th Feb 2020 - Es Torrent | ||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Andritxoleta - with LFF, Sandra †, Jarno | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super nice tufa fun
|
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Sun 23rd Feb 2020 - La Vall Verda | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Lucas forever - with LFF | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Quickdraw rescue
|
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5+ 5c | ★★ Gorrinos.com - with Sandra † | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 9th Mar 2019 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Salto | ||||||
6a | ★★ Chicharra loca - with LFF | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good bye route in the evening sun.
|
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4c | ★ Fluffy - with LFF | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 9th Mar 2019 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Corral | ||||||
4 | ★★ Aprendizaje por tercios - with LFF | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice & hard for the grade.
|
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Fri 8th Mar 2019 - Cala Bota | ||||||
3c | ★★ Schnurzelpurzel - with Sandra † | 10m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The planned hands-free Jonny Dawes memorial ascent didn't work out, but at least the one-hand memorial ascent for 'Ms. broken-hand' Sandra †...
|
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7a | ★★ Todo bene - with LFF | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Yeah Some warmup in the route and on the 2nd or 3rd serious attempt it went! 25 years from 6a to 7a - if I continue with this pace I'll reach 9a at the age of 99 Probably a bit soft for 7a, but who cares, nice climbing!
|
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6b | ★★ Kalki - with Giggler | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Committing move at the end, be tall or fly.
|
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6a | ★★ Touch the sky - with LFF | 13m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Huii,, technically 6a only at the beginning, but mentally 6a after. Touching the sky over the sea!
|
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5c | ★★ Edelweiß (Right dihedral) - with Giggler | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Thu 7th Mar 2019 - Cala Bota | ||||||
6b | ★★ Sobre el coral - with LFF | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Missed a bolt, attack was the best form of defense
|
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6b | ★★ Sobre el coral - with LFF | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just to try the correct sequence -easier like that.
|
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5c | ★★ Maria - with Norima | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice laybacking, totally different style and rock than the routes before.
|
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6a+ | ★★★ Wonder Woman - with LFF | 10m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sport / boulder cocktail mix through the roof. Powerful, if you do it so stupidly as I did it
|
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5b+ | ★★★ Banita - with LFF | 10m, 2 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Super fun climb with rock features all around yourself. Why can't it be 3 times longer?
|
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Wed 6th Mar 2019 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Duck | ||||||
6c | ★★ Vivan las jarras - with Giggler | 17m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Somehow fought down the crux. Getting dark, no time for redpointing, made this one anyway already some years ago.
|
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6b | ★★ ORC - with LFF, Giggler | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b | ★★ ORC - with LFF, Giggler | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This time a very smooth go. Just for the start boulder a 6b is deserved imho, and the top arete is not obvious neither.
|
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5b 5a | ★ Fup - with Giggler | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 5th Mar 2019 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
5c | ★★ Pa Torrat - with Jarno, Giggler | 23m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
No permission of the team to lead this beauty
|
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6c | ★★ Via morito - with LFF | 22m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Yes! Zitat Arvin: "Am schönsten ist der Sieg wenn man von der Niederlage gekostet hat" P.S.: Clip the last bolt so late that you don't need it anymore...
|
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Mon 4th Mar 2019 - La Vall Verda | ||||||
5b 5a | ★ Comando pastillero - with LFF | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 3rd Mar 2019 - Puig St. Martí | ||||||
6a | ★ Atila - with Sandra † | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5+ 5a - c | ★★ Alzheimer - with LFF | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
4+ 4c | ★ Pedorretas - with LFF | 20m | ★ Good | |||
In sneakers and without chalk. Not exactly easy like that.
|
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5 3c - 4a | ★ El Niño - with Norima | 8m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quickdraw rescue. Not bad, but far too short.
|
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4c | ★★ 100 Duros - with Sandra †, Jarno | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Too hot in T-Shirt
|
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Sat 5th Nov 2016 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Corral | ||||||
4 | ★★ Aprendizaje por tercios - with Arvin, Sandra † | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
In sneakers, put up the rope for Arvin. Really cool route for the grade.
|
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6b+ | ★★ Vampiro - with Arvin, Sandra † | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6a | ★★ Macaco - with Arvin, Sandra † | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
6a+ | ★ Puta guiri - with Arvin, Sandra † | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 4th Nov 2016 - Alaró | ||||||
Kiko | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Ramon me ha hecho el avion - with Giggler, Laurent, Yue, Laurent2, Florence | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Stupid name, should be called Xylophone - sounds hollow from bottom to top.
|
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5c | ★★ Pincha uvas - with Giggler, Laurent, Yue, Laurent2, Florence | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6a | ★★ Kiko - with Giggler, Laurent, Yue, Laurent2, Florence | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 2nd Nov 2016 - Penyal d'es Grau | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Txorrak - with Arvin, Giggler, Sandra † | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5b A1 6c | Tall en Verduc - with Arvin, Giggler, Sandra † | |||||
6c in topo, big fun doing a techno ascent. High gravity today...
|
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Tue 1st Nov 2016 - Caimari | ||||||
Comuna de Caimari | ||||||
6a | ★★ Con El Puño Por Debajo (Con El Puno Por Debajo) - with Arvin, Sandra †, Giggler, Laurent, Norima | 28m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
6b | ★ Enanismo emocional - with Arvin, Sandra †, Giggler, Laurent, Norima | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6a+ | ★★ La Princesa del Pueblo - with Arvin, Sandra †, Giggler, Laurent, Norima | 27m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 31st Oct 2016 - La Vall Verda | ||||||
6a | ★ Apreta peta - with Arvin, Sandra †, Laurent, Yue | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
6a+ | ★★ Lucas forever - with Arvin, Sandra †, Laurent, Yue | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 30th Oct 2016 - S' Estret | ||||||
Cuarentón | ||||||
6b | ★★ Big Bang | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Cold start #2. No mercy of the team today, main job is babysitting...
|
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6a 5c | ★ Virgin | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Cold start #1, put up the rope for the others.
|
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Sat 7th Nov 2015 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Corral | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Vampiro - with Sandra †, Arvin, Laurent, Yue | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent good-bye climbing in the evening sun, the Mallorca week is already over :-( Looks harder than it actually is.
|
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6b | ★★ Vampiresa - with Sandra †, Arvin, Laurent, Yue | 15m | Average | |||
Tricky move left, and then I went too far left having a great fight up the crimps there.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Vampirissimo (NN) - with Sandra †, Arvin, Laurent, Yue | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Not bad, with a long move in the middle, hand-feet or streeeetch...
|
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6a | ★★ Cala Bruix - with Sandra †, Arvin, Laurent, Yue | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Put in the rope for Sandra trying it. Fun route, but last move is awful.
|
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Fri 6th Nov 2015 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Colmena | ||||||
6b | ★★ Lucas - with Sandra †, Arvin, Laurent, Yue | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Quickdraw rescue mission for Laurent completed!
|
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Fri 6th Nov 2015 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Duck | ||||||
6c | ★★ Vivan las jarras - with Sandra †, Arvin | 17m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
6c | ★★ Vivan las jarras - with Sandra †, Arvin | 17m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Once you have mastered the hard pull out of the overhanging crack, difficulties are mostly over.
|
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5c 5c - 6a | ★ Duck - with Sandra †, Arvin | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The first metres are hard, then an astonishingly large number of jugs. Quite polished.
|
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Fri 6th Nov 2015 - Puig de Garrafa | ||||||
Salto | ||||||
6a | ★★ Chicharra loca - with Sandra †, Arvin | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 5th Nov 2015 - Cala Magraner | ||||||
Sense Voler | ||||||
6a | ★★ Viento (The Crack) - with Sandra †, Arvin | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
So lazy today! Nice line following a thin crack into a slabbish finish. The bolts look a bit spaced, but they are in perfect position.
|
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Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Valldemossa | ||||||
The Barrel | ||||||
4a | Centro - with Sandra †, Arvin, Laurent, Yue | 8m, 1 | Don't Bother | |||
Very hard overhanging start, 5 for sure. The rest one can forget. Did it just to get the rope down.
|
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Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Valldemossa | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
5c | ★★ Dali - with Sandra †, Arvin, Laurent, Yue | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat for Sandra to try it. Pumpy finish, not a good warm-up.
|