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Ascents as various tick types by Douglas Hockly

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 122 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Tue 23rd Oct 2018 - Mt Stuart
The Playground
22 Joy Boy Mixed trad 21m, 3 Very Good
22 Lemon Seeds Mixed trad 18m, 3 Average
22 Too Much Fun Mixed trad 23m, 3 Very Good
22 Yesterday's Gone Mixed trad 14m, 1 Good
22 Shadow Of A Doubt Trad 18m
22 Post-Larval Mutants Trad 18m Average
22 Tunnel Vision Mixed trad 7m, 1 Very Good
Wed 16th Nov 2016 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle
22 Fine Tune - with Wendy Eden Trad 16m Average
Really contrived in the first bit, but fun thin face climbing.

 
Fri 11th Nov 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress
22 Family Food - with becca saurus Trad 20m Good
Quite interesting, doesn't seem to have much gear, esp at the start which is the crux

 
Mon 15th Aug 2016 - Frog Buttress
East of the access track
22 Slippin' Away Trad 13m Good
The corner is good - and desperate - but very short.

 
Mon 15th Aug 2016 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
22 20 The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine Trad 33m Good
The start detracts, and the rest is quite hard, feels as hard as other 22s

 
22 Out on a Limb Trad 18m Good
The crux placements have shattered which is not that confidence inspiring. You can get questionable cams now. Delicate climbing on your feet.

 
22 21 Run With the Pack Trad 20m Good
More like a toprope. I went up Bad Company to the first good bit of gear, which is 2/3 of the way up the route. I would not trust the gear in the initial corner at all. Much scarier than Out On A Limb or The Go-Between. Climbing is ok, top crack is nice. I think 22.

 
22 Decade Trad 30m Average
A good line but the climbing is easier to the left and then the right so it ended up feeling a bit contrived to me.

 
22 Satsang Mixed trad 5m, 1 Average
22 Yankee Go Home Trad 26m Very Good
Sun 17th Jul 2016 - Frog Buttress
East of the access track
22 Thrutching is the Reward of Thrutching Trad 12m Good
Think of this in the same vein as "11a offwidth". An amazing (though very short) corner with crap holds at the back and desperate insecure bridge-thrutching and squeak-panting. 2 falls until I realised I was facing the wrong way.

 
22 Snipe Mixed trad 23m, 2
Don't remember anything!

 
22 Dave Mank's Electric Gorilla Direct Start Trad 10m Good
22 Black Light Trad 25m Very Good
I find this incredibly hard and insecure due to a) poor crack technique and b) my hands don't go into the crack so it's all marginal thin hands.

 
22 Child in Time Trad 25m Classic
I find this desperate in the top half where its very thin hands for me. Actually easier without tape gloves as I can get more of my hand in!

 
Wed 6th Jul 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
22 Running Amok - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 15m, 1 Very Good
10 laps training in my Become Adam Demmert programme. Having the plastic surgery next week - so excited! Conditions a bit warm, had to climb shirtless by the end.

 
Mon 4th Jul 2016 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
22 Old Guard - with Wendy Eden Trad 40m Very Good
Better than it looks and there are a number of stances on the way.

 
22 Lonely Teardrops - with Wendy Eden Trad 22m Classic
Really great.

 
22 No Return Trad 30m Good
Wobbled my way up this as one of my early 21s...

 
22 Lord Drool Sport 6m Good
Sat 2nd Jul 2016 - Frog Buttress
East of the access track
22 Tight Lips and Cold Feet Trad 20m Good
Good at the start, I remember having a wobble up higher at a slabby bit and some hollow sounding rock.

 
22 Yodel up the Valley Trad 22m Average
Not that memorable.

 
22 Yeah, Yeah, Yeah! Trad 28m Don't Bother
Thu 2nd Jun 2016 - Arapiles
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom
22 Cream Between - with Wendy Eden Trad 30m Good
I would describe it as 'horiffically smooth', but hey. The initial groove looks like 24 and is at least 19 and then the bulge has a hard slopey topout. (this may be a new direct finish). Then a bit of a loose and blocky ramble to the top but the bottom is quite worthwhile and the most-not-16 route I have ever done.

 
Sat 14th May 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
22 Under Control - with Ben Weissner Trad 30m Average
Quite fun in bottom half, then very mossy and easier

 
Sat 9th Apr 2016 - Arapiles
Northern Group Evelyn and Lou Area
22 Greg will be Amused - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 10m, 2 Average
22 Lou Direct - with Wendy Eden Trad 12m Good
Probably better than the original

 
Wed 23rd Mar 2016 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area
The Ravine
22 21 Minced Beef Eaters - with Wendy Eden Sport 20m Good
Pre clipped the second bolt for the full Dougpoint.

 
Sun 17th Jan 2016 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle
22 Totally Foxed! Trad 20m Good
Good climbing but I wouldn't lead this.

 
Sun 3rd Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area
Lake Bellfield Pastoral Buttress Main Cliff
22 Cocky Calamity - with Wendy Eden Trad 20m Very Good
A good onsight by Wendy. Quite insecure after the crux.

 
Sun 3rd Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area
Town Cliffs The Radiator
22 Feel the Heat - with Wendy Eden Trad 15m Good
Seemed very tough for 20, good locks but feet scarce on the bulge

 
Sun 3rd Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area
Northern Wonderland Range The Wall of China Main Wall
22 21 Sacred Ground - with Wendy Eden Sport 25m, 5 Very Good
An absolutely desperate start leads to easing climbing. Hard for 21, what would adam demmert know about climbing 21?

 
22 Sprung - with Wendy Eden Sport 25m, 6 Classic
I thought this was lovely - great pockets, great rock, nicely sustained. Dodgy bolts but you can't have everything!

 
Sun 3rd Jan 2016 - Bundaleer Area
Bundaleer
22 Lunging for Melons Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
Very odd!

 
Sun 29th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
22 20 They Eat Pigeons Don't They - with Lou Mixed trad 30m, 1 Very Good
I thought this was a really good route. Thought provoking all the way, I was a bit suspicious of some of the gear on the top half, but I think there's enough good stuff to keep you safe. For me the crux was definitely the bottom crack.

 
Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Far North Werewolf Area
22 Goodbye Trad 30m Very Good
Keep traversing! Excitement plus.

 
Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Northern Group Evelyn and Lou Area
22 Order Your Christmas Poultry Now - with Kate Finnerty Trad 12m Good
Maybe 22? fun face climbing

 
Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Northern Group Echo Crag
22 Honeycomb - with Wendy Eden Trad 30m Very Good
Very good, but once you pull the lip it's over, which is a little disappointing. Maybe only use one arm on the top bit?

 
22 21 Mr Buffalo Mixed trad 25m, 2 Very Good
Very technical, spent most of the time thinking! Very nice rock, take small cams. Might be a good link from Honeycomb.

 
Sat 14th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Kitten Wall
22 APOF Variant Start Mixed trad 25m, 1 Don't Bother
Sat 14th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Wedding Tackle Area
22 20 Furphy Trad 20m Very Good
Excellent! Like Huey but with a hard bouldery start that's about 22

 
Sat 14th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully
22 21 Yesterday's Rooster Mixed trad 22m, 2 Good
I always find this a bit scary - rock and gear at the start are a bit iffy. And it feels like 22

 
22 Black Spasm - with Paul Deacon Trad 20m Good
Eases a lot after the roof. Some bees nearby.

 
Fri 13th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully
22 In Lemon Butter Trad 15m Very Good
You think you've done the crux, but you haven't.

 
22 Ephemeral Direct Finish Trad 22m Very Good
22 Ephemeral Trad 20m Good
22 White Heat - with Kate Dooley Trad 20m Very Good
Fri 13th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area
22 Drivetime Mixed trad 8m, 2 Good
22 20 R Angel Grinder - with Kieran Lawton Trad 12m Good
Not sure if I did a direct but felt more like 22. No gear till about 6m, then fiddly wires for the crux.

 
Thu 12th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall
22 The Second Coming Trad 57m Don't Bother
The only three star 22 at Arapiles? Really? Super greasy, wandery, contrived waste of time. Of all the routes on the back of the Pharos I've done this is the worst. A far better multipitch 22 nearby is the first pitch of Shivers and the second pitch of Trojan. And Squeakeasy is a far better candidate for the mount's only three star 22.

 
Wed 11th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Castle Crag
22 Siva Mixed trad 12m, 1 Good
A few good moves

 
22 Acrobat Trad 20m Average
Wed 11th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Bluffs Flinders Lane Area
22 Scorpion Corner Trad 25m Very Good
Gear on the top corner all feels a little iffy. Tiny cams help. Friends said they saw Peter Croft solo up and down this, and that it actually looked easier coming down.

 
Tue 10th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Bard Buttress
22 Wall Street Trad 25m Very Good
Pumpy placing the gear... and doing the finish. Steeper than it looks

 
Tue 10th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Heckle and Jeckle Area
22 Clap for Kiwis - with adam demmert, Wendy Eden Mixed trad 18m, 1 Very Good
Backed off this 10 years ago before the bolt was placed, and fell off it even with it! Really good rock and climbing, take a good number of small wires. Felt hard for the grade to me but Adam seemed to find a better sequence.

 
Thu 5th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque
22 Fear of Flying Trad 12m Don't Bother
22 21 R Dramp Trad 15m Good
Super greasy committing layback around the roof.. gets a star just for the insecurity.

 
Thu 5th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall
22 21 Slap the Philanthropist Trad 30m Good
Borderline 22.

 
22 Feral Chicken Mixed trad 20m, 1 Very Good
I have got a wire in before the bolt, but it seems to be a very specific size as I have gone up twice subsequently and not been able to place it. Best solution is to take a clip stick!

 
Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully
22 22 R Jeepers Mixed trad 8m, 1 Good
The bolt is rubbish, and you might hit the ground off the crux even if it held.

 
Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress
22 Los Endos Trad 40m Very Good
Loose feeling and not that well protected. Double ropes are good.

 
Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Minstrel Pinnacle
22 Kinky Kupple Mixed trad 17m, 1 Good
Was very serious before the bolt went in!

 
Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress
22 I Can't Believe it's not Chaconne - with Wendy Eden Trad 10m Average
Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall
22 Cecilia Mixed trad 25m, 4 Good
Tue 3rd Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall
22 Quisling Direct Start Trad 22m Very Good
Technical and pumpy placing the gear

 
Mon 2nd Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Atridae Agamemnon Area
22 Love that comfort Trad 24m Average
Mon 2nd Nov 2015 - Arapiles
Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall
22 Boogie Boogie - with Wendy Eden Trad 10m Good
22 Hyperspace Bypass - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 20m, 4 Good
Thin bit in the first half then R and L up the wall

 
Thu 22nd Oct 2015 - Arapiles
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
22 Eat More Meat - with estherenita Trad 30m Good
Classic slick desperate Arapiles seam.

 
22 No Future Direct Mixed trad 30m, 1 Good
Mon 19th Oct 2015 - Arapiles
Far North Upper Curtain Wall
22 Day of Rest Direct Finish - with Cate Webb Trad 30m Good
Exciting crux above the gear.

 
Mon 19th Oct 2015 - Arapiles
Far North Hum Terrace
22 Nihilism Trad 18m Good
Fri 16th Oct 2015 - Arapiles
Far North Leasehold Wall
22 Fade Out - with Duncan Steel † Trad 35m Don't Bother
I really didn't like this one

 
Thu 8th Oct 2015 - South-Eastern Grampians
North-West Serra Range Dreamtime Wall
22 Dreaming of Reconciliation - with adam demmert, @cathdv Sport 39m, 8 Very Good
Good climbing, brittle rock - and thankfully we had Adam there to tell us to lower off a ring bolt before the top, where it gets really loose. Funky crux at the start - I could imagine falling off this a lot.

 
Thu 8th Oct 2015 - Frederick Peak
South Sentinel The Land Before Time
22 21 Bad Obsession - with Wendy Eden Sport 20m, 10 Good
Really good first 2/3, rock goes downhill a bit after the crux. Felt like 22.

 
Mon 5th Oct 2015 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock South Mitre
22 Mediterranean Sundance Trad 20m Good
Better starting from Anything At All and traversing in.

 
22 Walk On - with Jill McLeod Trad 15m Average
Scary at top

 
Sat 26th Sep 2015 - Arapiles
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
22 You Can't Stop the Gobble - with Wendy Eden Trad 71m Good
Just did the roof on P2 which seems too hard for 19. Not bad, a little dirty and loose in places but.. good on second!

 
Wed 23rd Sep 2015 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites
22 Vapour Trail - with Cate Webb Trad 15m Good
Interesting and fun. Had a hillarious ascent with Cate where I clawed my way up getting pumped out of my brain, then Cate floated up finding all manner of rests including a no hands kneebar where I was most pumped!

 
Fri 1st May 2015 - Arapiles
Voodoo Area Rats Alley
22 22 X Blyth Street Direct Start - with Paul Hoskins Trad 12m Average
Jesus fracking Christ. Didn't know what I was getting myself in for. First runner is at about half height. After that I took note of Warwick Baird routes!

 
Fri 1st May 2015 - Arapiles
Voodoo Area New Image Wall
22 Blackguard Trad 25m Good
Good I remember, with a great wire slot in the blankest part.

 
22 Linear Transformation Trad 25m Good
Utterly desperate start with worrying gear, at the top is a slightly desperate corner with slightly worrying gear.

 
22 Hidden Secrets Trad 25m Good
This route's ok but I don't seem to love it like everyone else.

 
22 Loading Zone - with Paul Hoskins Trad 25m Good
22 Continuum Trad 25m Good
I'd give it one star. A bit runout through and after the crux and rock is a bit dodgy up high

 
Wed 29th Apr 2015 - Arapiles
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall
22 Follow Your Nose Mixed trad 12m, 1 Good
Take care with gear.

 
Thu 23rd Oct 2014 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Kitten Wall
22 Practical Cats Mixed trad 25m, 1 Very Good
Seemed hard, and wire seemed like it would be hard to place

 
22 22 R Hard Nipples Trad 20m Very Good
Also a bit worrying up the top! Best done on a confident day.

 
22 Lickwid Pussy Trad 20m Very Good
22 21 A Piece of Flake Trad 25m Good
A little runout after the flake

 
Tue 14th Oct 2014 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Hellspite Wall
22 Straw Dogs Trad 11m Very Good
Pretty tough!

 
Tue 14th Oct 2014 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face
22 Cruel Canine Trad 15m Average
Tue 14th Oct 2014 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Pebbles and Bam Bam
22 Pebbles Trad 12m Good
Mon 13th Oct 2014 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall
22 Squeakeasy Trad 30m Mega Classic
Reproductive-organ-tearing-megaclassic. There is a small wire in the jug on the right after the first bulge.

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 122 ascents.