Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Tue 23rd Oct 2018 - Mt Stuart | ||||||
The Playground | ||||||
22 | ★★ Joy Boy | 21m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | Lemon Seeds | 18m, 3 | Average | |||
22 | ★★ Too Much Fun | 23m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★ Yesterday's Gone | 14m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★★★ Shadow Of A Doubt | 18m | ||||
22 | Post-Larval Mutants | 18m | Average | |||
22 | ★★ Tunnel Vision | 7m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 16th Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
22 | Fine Tune - with Wendy Eden | 16m | Average | |||
Really contrived in the first bit, but fun thin face climbing.
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Fri 11th Nov 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★ Family Food - with becca saurus | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Quite interesting, doesn't seem to have much gear, esp at the start which is the crux
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Mon 15th Aug 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
22 | ★ Slippin' Away | 13m | ★ Good | |||
The corner is good - and desperate - but very short.
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Mon 15th Aug 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
22 20 | ★★ The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine | 33m | ★ Good | |||
The start detracts, and the rest is quite hard, feels as hard as other 22s
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22 | ★★ Out on a Limb | 18m | ★ Good | |||
The crux placements have shattered which is not that confidence inspiring. You can get questionable cams now. Delicate climbing on your feet.
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22 21 | ★ Run With the Pack | 20m | ★ Good | |||
More like a toprope. I went up Bad Company to the first good bit of gear, which is 2/3 of the way up the route. I would not trust the gear in the initial corner at all. Much scarier than Out On A Limb or The Go-Between. Climbing is ok, top crack is nice. I think 22.
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22 | ★★ Decade | 30m | Average | |||
A good line but the climbing is easier to the left and then the right so it ended up feeling a bit contrived to me.
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22 | ★ Satsang | 5m, 1 | Average | |||
22 | ★★★ Yankee Go Home | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 17th Jul 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
22 | ★ Thrutching is the Reward of Thrutching | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Think of this in the same vein as "11a offwidth". An amazing (though very short) corner with crap holds at the back and desperate insecure bridge-thrutching and squeak-panting. 2 falls until I realised I was facing the wrong way.
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22 | ★★ Snipe | 23m, 2 | ||||
Don't remember anything!
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22 | ★★ Dave Mank's Electric Gorilla Direct Start | 10m | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★★★ Black Light | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I find this incredibly hard and insecure due to a) poor crack technique and b) my hands don't go into the crack so it's all marginal thin hands.
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22 | ★★★ Child in Time | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I find this desperate in the top half where its very thin hands for me. Actually easier without tape gloves as I can get more of my hand in!
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Wed 6th Jul 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Running Amok - with Wendy Eden | 15m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
10 laps training in my Become Adam Demmert programme. Having the plastic surgery next week - so excited! Conditions a bit warm, had to climb shirtless by the end.
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Mon 4th Jul 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Old Guard - with Wendy Eden | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Better than it looks and there are a number of stances on the way.
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22 | ★★★ Lonely Teardrops - with Wendy Eden | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really great.
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22 | ★ No Return | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Wobbled my way up this as one of my early 21s...
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22 | ★★ Lord Drool | 6m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 2nd Jul 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
22 | ★★ Tight Lips and Cold Feet | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Good at the start, I remember having a wobble up higher at a slabby bit and some hollow sounding rock.
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22 | ★ Yodel up the Valley | 22m | Average | |||
Not that memorable.
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22 | Yeah, Yeah, Yeah! | 28m | Don't Bother | |||
Thu 2nd Jun 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
22 | ★ Cream Between - with Wendy Eden | 30m | ★ Good | |||
I would describe it as 'horiffically smooth', but hey. The initial groove looks like 24 and is at least 19 and then the bulge has a hard slopey topout. (this may be a new direct finish). Then a bit of a loose and blocky ramble to the top but the bottom is quite worthwhile and the most-not-16 route I have ever done.
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Sat 14th May 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
22 | Under Control - with Ben Weissner | 30m | Average | |||
Quite fun in bottom half, then very mossy and easier
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Sat 9th Apr 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Evelyn and Lou Area | ||||||
22 | Greg will be Amused - with Wendy Eden | 10m, 2 | Average | |||
22 | ★ Lou Direct - with Wendy Eden | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Probably better than the original
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Wed 23rd Mar 2016 - Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area | ||||||
The Ravine | ||||||
22 21 | ★ Minced Beef Eaters - with Wendy Eden | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Pre clipped the second bolt for the full Dougpoint.
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Sun 17th Jan 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Voidoid Pinnacle | ||||||
22 | ★ Totally Foxed! | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Good climbing but I wouldn't lead this.
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Sun 3rd Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area | ||||||
Lake Bellfield Pastoral Buttress Main Cliff | ||||||
22 | ★ Cocky Calamity - with Wendy Eden | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A good onsight by Wendy. Quite insecure after the crux.
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Sun 3rd Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area | ||||||
Town Cliffs The Radiator | ||||||
22 | ★ Feel the Heat - with Wendy Eden | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Seemed very tough for 20, good locks but feet scarce on the bulge
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Sun 3rd Jan 2016 - Halls Gap Area | ||||||
Northern Wonderland Range The Wall of China Main Wall | ||||||
22 21 | ★ Sacred Ground - with Wendy Eden | 25m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
An absolutely desperate start leads to easing climbing. Hard for 21, what would adam demmert know about climbing 21?
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22 | ★★ Sprung - with Wendy Eden | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I thought this was lovely - great pockets, great rock, nicely sustained. Dodgy bolts but you can't have everything!
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Sun 3rd Jan 2016 - Bundaleer Area | ||||||
Bundaleer | ||||||
22 | ★★ Lunging for Melons | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very odd!
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Sun 29th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
22 20 | ★★ They Eat Pigeons Don't They - with Lou | 30m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I thought this was a really good route. Thought provoking all the way, I was a bit suspicious of some of the gear on the top half, but I think there's enough good stuff to keep you safe. For me the crux was definitely the bottom crack.
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Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Werewolf Area | ||||||
22 | ★★ Goodbye | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Keep traversing! Excitement plus.
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Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Evelyn and Lou Area | ||||||
22 | ★ Order Your Christmas Poultry Now - with Kate Finnerty | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Maybe 22? fun face climbing
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Tue 17th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Echo Crag | ||||||
22 | ★★ Honeycomb - with Wendy Eden | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very good, but once you pull the lip it's over, which is a little disappointing. Maybe only use one arm on the top bit?
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22 21 | ★ Mr Buffalo | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very technical, spent most of the time thinking! Very nice rock, take small cams. Might be a good link from Honeycomb.
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Sat 14th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Kitten Wall | ||||||
22 | APOF Variant Start | 25m, 1 | Don't Bother | |||
Sat 14th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Wedding Tackle Area | ||||||
22 20 | ★★ Furphy | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent! Like Huey but with a hard bouldery start that's about 22
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Sat 14th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Upper Gully | ||||||
22 21 | ★★ Yesterday's Rooster | 22m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
I always find this a bit scary - rock and gear at the start are a bit iffy. And it feels like 22
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22 | ★ Black Spasm - with Paul Deacon | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Eases a lot after the roof. Some bees nearby.
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Fri 13th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
22 | ★★★ In Lemon Butter | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
You think you've done the crux, but you haven't.
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22 | ★★ Ephemeral Direct Finish | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★ Ephemeral | 20m | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★★ White Heat - with Kate Dooley | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 13th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area | ||||||
22 | ★ Drivetime | 8m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
22 20 R | ★ Angel Grinder - with Kieran Lawton | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Not sure if I did a direct but felt more like 22. No gear till about 6m, then fiddly wires for the crux.
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Thu 12th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ The Second Coming | 57m | Don't Bother | |||
The only three star 22 at Arapiles? Really? Super greasy, wandery, contrived waste of time. Of all the routes on the back of the Pharos I've done this is the worst. A far better multipitch 22 nearby is the first pitch of Shivers and the second pitch of Trojan. And Squeakeasy is a far better candidate for the mount's only three star 22.
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Wed 11th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Castle Crag | ||||||
22 | ★ Siva | 12m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
A few good moves
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22 | Acrobat | 20m | Average | |||
Wed 11th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Flinders Lane Area | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Scorpion Corner | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Gear on the top corner all feels a little iffy. Tiny cams help. Friends said they saw Peter Croft solo up and down this, and that it actually looked easier coming down.
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Tue 10th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★★ Wall Street | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pumpy placing the gear... and doing the finish. Steeper than it looks
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Tue 10th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Heckle and Jeckle Area | ||||||
22 | ★★ Clap for Kiwis - with adam demmert, Wendy Eden | 18m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Backed off this 10 years ago before the bolt was placed, and fell off it even with it! Really good rock and climbing, take a good number of small wires. Felt hard for the grade to me but Adam seemed to find a better sequence.
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Thu 5th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque | ||||||
22 | ★ Fear of Flying | 12m | Don't Bother | |||
22 21 R | ★★ Dramp | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Super greasy committing layback around the roof.. gets a star just for the insecurity.
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Thu 5th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
22 21 | ★★ Slap the Philanthropist | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Borderline 22.
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22 | ★★ Feral Chicken | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I have got a wire in before the bolt, but it seems to be a very specific size as I have gone up twice subsequently and not been able to place it. Best solution is to take a clip stick!
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Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | ||||||
22 22 R | ★ Jeepers | 8m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
The bolt is rubbish, and you might hit the ground off the crux even if it held.
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Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Los Endos | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Loose feeling and not that well protected. Double ropes are good.
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Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Minstrel Pinnacle | ||||||
22 | ★ Kinky Kupple | 17m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Was very serious before the bolt went in!
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Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress | ||||||
22 | I Can't Believe it's not Chaconne - with Wendy Eden | 10m | Average | |||
Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Cecilia | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Tue 3rd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Quisling Direct Start | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Technical and pumpy placing the gear
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Mon 2nd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
22 | Love that comfort | 24m | Average | |||
Mon 2nd Nov 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall | ||||||
22 | Boogie Boogie - with Wendy Eden | 10m | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★ Hyperspace Bypass - with Wendy Eden | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Thin bit in the first half then R and L up the wall
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Thu 22nd Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
22 | ★ Eat More Meat - with estherenita | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Classic slick desperate Arapiles seam.
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22 | ★★ No Future Direct | 30m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 19th Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Upper Curtain Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Day of Rest Direct Finish - with Cate Webb | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Exciting crux above the gear.
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Mon 19th Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Hum Terrace | ||||||
22 | ★ Nihilism | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 16th Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Leasehold Wall | ||||||
22 | ★ Fade Out - with Duncan Steel † | 35m | Don't Bother | |||
I really didn't like this one
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Thu 8th Oct 2015 - South-Eastern Grampians | ||||||
North-West Serra Range Dreamtime Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Dreaming of Reconciliation - with adam demmert, @cathdv | 39m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good climbing, brittle rock - and thankfully we had Adam there to tell us to lower off a ring bolt before the top, where it gets really loose. Funky crux at the start - I could imagine falling off this a lot.
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Thu 8th Oct 2015 - Frederick Peak | ||||||
South Sentinel The Land Before Time | ||||||
22 21 | ★★ Bad Obsession - with Wendy Eden | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Really good first 2/3, rock goes downhill a bit after the crux. Felt like 22.
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Mon 5th Oct 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
22 | ★ Mediterranean Sundance | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Better starting from Anything At All and traversing in.
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22 | ★ Walk On - with Jill McLeod | 15m | Average | |||
Scary at top
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Sat 26th Sep 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ You Can't Stop the Gobble - with Wendy Eden | 71m | ★ Good | |||
Just did the roof on P2 which seems too hard for 19. Not bad, a little dirty and loose in places but.. good on second!
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Wed 23rd Sep 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites | ||||||
22 | ★★ Vapour Trail - with Cate Webb | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Interesting and fun. Had a hillarious ascent with Cate where I clawed my way up getting pumped out of my brain, then Cate floated up finding all manner of rests including a no hands kneebar where I was most pumped!
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Fri 1st May 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Rats Alley | ||||||
22 22 X | ★ Blyth Street Direct Start - with Paul Hoskins | 12m | Average | |||
Jesus fracking Christ. Didn't know what I was getting myself in for. First runner is at about half height. After that I took note of Warwick Baird routes!
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Fri 1st May 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area New Image Wall | ||||||
22 | ★ Blackguard | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Good I remember, with a great wire slot in the blankest part.
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22 | ★ Linear Transformation | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Utterly desperate start with worrying gear, at the top is a slightly desperate corner with slightly worrying gear.
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22 | ★★ Hidden Secrets | 25m | ★ Good | |||
This route's ok but I don't seem to love it like everyone else.
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22 | ★★ Loading Zone - with Paul Hoskins | 25m | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★★ Continuum | 25m | ★ Good | |||
I'd give it one star. A bit runout through and after the crux and rock is a bit dodgy up high
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Wed 29th Apr 2015 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | ||||||
22 | ★ Follow Your Nose | 12m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Take care with gear.
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Thu 23rd Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Kitten Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Practical Cats | 25m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seemed hard, and wire seemed like it would be hard to place
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22 22 R | ★★ Hard Nipples | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Also a bit worrying up the top! Best done on a confident day.
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22 | ★ Lickwid Pussy | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 21 | ★ A Piece of Flake | 25m | ★ Good | |||
A little runout after the flake
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Tue 14th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Hellspite Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Straw Dogs | 11m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty tough!
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Tue 14th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face | ||||||
22 | ★ Cruel Canine | 15m | Average | |||
Tue 14th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Pebbles and Bam Bam | ||||||
22 | ★★ Pebbles | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 13th Oct 2014 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Brick Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Squeakeasy | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Reproductive-organ-tearing-megaclassic. There is a small wire in the jug on the right after the first bulge.
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