Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Fri 27th Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
17 | ★★ Macraderma | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
30m deep cave chimney... Pulling the ropes down there was fun... my headlmap ran out of battery after 5 metres
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Thu 26th Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Insomnia | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Quite tricky at the start...
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23 | ★★ The Guns of Navaronne | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Cool bridging on smooth orange rock, then fun moves around the roof with a sneaky knee bar in there
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21 | ★★★ Conquistador | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Eliminating the face holds makes the finger crack more exciting
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Wed 25th Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
22 | ★★ Lead-lined Lothario | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Heel toe ... knee bar... great fun grunting up this rattly finger crack!
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Tue 24th Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★ Pollux | 23m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A really good session of hand-fist sticks with great knee locking
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24 | ★★★ Impulse | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Refined some moves at the top and skipped a cam to free up a hold and by the third go it almost felt easy! Really good route!
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Mon 23rd Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
17 | ★ Liquid Laughter Layback | 38m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seconding Che & Charlie
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Sun 22nd Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Erg Direct | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Best of the trio, the start was tenuous on slippery finger locks with plenty of great edges
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22 | ★★★ Black Light | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Tricky thin crack to get established in the thin hands corner with lot of finger crack too
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22 | ★★★ Child in Time | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Very interesting start on face holds and thin fingerlocks into a long thin hands splitter
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Sat 21st Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Odin | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Bit of a thrutch through the roof! Phew!
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20 | ★★★ Short Order | 30m | ||||
Techy corner climbing, very good
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19 | ★★ Magical Mystery Tour | 34m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I liked how this climb goes from thin fingers to offwidth but manages to skip past hand size very quickly, cool wide section with face holds when butterfly’s don’t quite work
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21 | ★★★ The One That Got Away | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great bridging with a crack switch in there
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Sat 21st Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Resurrection Corner | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Another top lead by Che
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21 | ★★ Venom | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Radical offwidth! All sizes of wideness!
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Fri 20th Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Deliverance | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Exciting moves at the top, great climb!
Slipped out of a greasy layback near the bottom first go
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21 | ★★★ Conquistador | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
20 | ★★★ Devils Dihedral | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
20 | ★★★ Devils Dihedral | 45m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Seconding Che’s impressive clean lead!
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Thu 19th Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★ Dream of Purple Peach Popsicles | 32m | ★★★ Classic | |||
22 | ★★★ Yankee Go Home | 26m | ★★★ Classic | |||
20 | ★★★ Piranha | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
16 | ★★★ Satan's Smokestack | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
22 | ★★★ Lonely Teardrops | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
18 | ★★ Gladiator | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Wed 18th Jul 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Infinity | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Beautiful first climb at Frog
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Mon 16th Jul 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Perry's Lookdown | ||||||
27 | ★★★ ORANGE JAM | 57m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
I had to see what all the commotion was about... turns out it actually is a sensational piece of crack. Just gave the first pitch a whirl on top rope before climbing Slipstream with a mate and surprised myself climbing it clean first go for warmup. Thought it would have been much harder, Ive only led 24 crack, but it didnt feel that different to 5.11+ in the Creek. Should have just gone ground up after all... will be keen to return with a stack of microcams for the lead.
A 60m rope hit the ground from the top anchors with about 5 metres spare, could totally be done in one pitch.
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Sat 14th Jul 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | ||||||
24 | ★★ The Squealing | 87m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quite an adventurous climb, worth a crack., starts up vegetated corner (cams) before first carrot, and a dusty rail traverse over to the arete. Some great arete moves on this long pitch! One of which I could not do , off the midway ledge. Some interesting route finding, off the ledges two times I traversed in from the far left. Mostly carrots but bring a single rack of cams to 3 and nuts.
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22 | ★★★ Aladinsane - with david dearnly | 32m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really nice finger crack.
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20 | ★★★ Caladan | 32m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Repeat for warmup, just a stellar hand crack and also good fists low down, don’t miss it
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22 | ★★★ Jezebel - with david dearnly | 100m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
WOW - what an incredible route. Probably the best adventure trad climb I have been on in the Blue Mtns. You really have no idea what to expect on this one, can’t see much of that evil diagonal gash from the ground. Highly recommended to all trad frothers and gym climbers
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Sat 30th Jun 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County The 39 Steps | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Gentlemens Drag (Gentleman's Drag) | 28m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Perfect winter conditions in full sun. Love this climb.
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Fri 29th Jun 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura The Fortress | ||||||
19 | ★ The Wind Cries Mary | 180m, 25 | Average | |||
Couldnt find the Fortress Crack so ended up on this one instead. Pretty much all carrots. Face climbing on dubious rock all the way, easy climbing but you’re constantly worried that your crimp will snap or ironstone foothold will break off as many did.
Great views though over the Grose Valley.
Take 10 bolt plates, single rack of cams 0.4-2 and some wires.
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Sun 24th Jun 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Telstar | 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Fantastic trad fun! We bootied a 3 piece anchor with cordalette at the mid-belay including .4 cam - thanks y’all. When abseiling off the u-bolts at the top to the left, careful how you rig the rope. Our rope got stuck on the ironstone edge, had to prussic out. Blast off rap line was easier going.
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Wed 20th Jun 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Amen Corner | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
21 | ★★★ The Janicepts | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
21 | ★★★ The Janicepts | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
2:55 on top rope
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21 | ★★★ The Kraken | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 20th Jun 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Solomon Area | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Solomon | 51m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
19 | ★★★ Gemini | 51m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tue 12th Jun 2018 - Yosemite National Park | ||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan West Face | ||||||
5.11c 5.11c V | ★★★ West Face | 550m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
A big 19hr day out with Rose , lower half had some hard slab and face climbing and the top half some tricky route finding and steep cracks. It started raining in the afternoon so I had to aid the last 10d pitch. Rose grovelled to the top up slimy corners and chimneys to finish in the dark, and a slippery walk down East Ledges
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Thu 24th May 2018 - Yosemite National Park | ||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | ||||||
5.11d C1 5.13a VI | ★★★ Freerider | 880m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Incredible route, desperate slabs, hard offwidths and steep cracks. The freerider variation at the top is amazing. 5 days plus a day of hauling to Hollow Flake
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Sat 21st Apr 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County Memory Lane | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Interstate 31 | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
As good as ever. Climbed it in full finger belay gloves, even better than crack gloves. Extra incentive to stay away from any face holds, leather is slippery
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Sat 21st Apr 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County The 39 Steps | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Gentlemens Drag (Gentleman's Drag) | 28m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sent it on the pre-placed gear, questionable ethics I admit, have rarely ever climbed this way on trad before, and it has left me with a strange half-satisfied feeling. Will have to come back another time for the proper tick. Such a sensational line, well worth returning to for another lap. This route felt like a thinner version of the Janicepts, in the same realm of classicdom.
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Fri 13th Apr 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Echo Point Echo Point Walls | ||||||
23 22 R | ★★ Ice - with Ro-boat, riikka | 170m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Abi Prakash inspired me to do more mixed, and this really is a mixed-climbing masterpiece. its more trad than bolts, with carrots on the top half of the epic 45m crux pitch, and only one or two carrots elsewhere. Bring a double rack .3-#2 with single #3 and about 12 bolt plates. Did not use any nuts. Other pitches not as chossy as expected, mostly good solid rock. The grassy mantle at the very top is exciting!
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Sun 8th Apr 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Dalpura Head The Lost Pillar | ||||||
23 | Lost Crack | 110m | ★ Good | |||
A pile of choss with a few exciting moments, a lot of tip-toeing on wobbling blocks ... but its a pure trad 4-pitch multi in the shade on a wild free-standing pillar - that more than makes up for the rest!! Good way to bulk out your Wafer Thin Fin day.
P1 has some great splitter hands which thins to a seam, and a few gr23 slab moves. You could easily pull past this on cams for 18M1 so don't let the grade put you off. Belay off the big blocks on the right. P2 has some good laybacking up a corner then lots of loose stacked blocks. P3 follows a finger crack for gear but mostly easy stemming to the right wall, then a desperate squeeze through roof to belay. P4 is a long easy chimney, not much gear off the belay but easy moves, then finishes up the arête on 3 carrots, a cool finale
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Sat 7th Apr 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Sunbath | ||||||
13 | ★ Between the Lines | 10m | ||||
Demonstrating how to trad
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13 | ★ Between the Lines | 10m | ||||
Running shoe ascent to put up a top rope back up on this after it was previously cleaned. Clipping couple bolts on the 18
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13 | ★ Between the Lines | 10m | ||||
Running shoe ascent to clean draws left behind by others who should have cleaned them but did not
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Sat 7th Apr 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath Colosseum | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Wake of the Flood | 50m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome climb, we linked first two pitches, then sent the final flary finger/hand crack on second try, 1.5 yrs after the first try with Nicola. Rapped to the ground with one 60m rope from the double rings just below the top, quite a weird placement for them, out of reach from the nice ledge (Paul?)
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Tue 3rd Apr 2018 - Moonarie | ||||||
The Ramparts | ||||||
20 | ★★ Sweeping Statement Pitch 1 | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pleasant first pitch of the day, feels like jamming pin scars in yosemite, thin crack up slab with jamming pods
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18 | ★★★ Miles from Nowhere | 100m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Long and moderate with an interesting surprise awaiting at the top...
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Tue 3rd Apr 2018 - Moonarie | ||||||
Flying Buttress | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Flying Buttress | 110m | ||||
Simul climbing morning wake up!
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19 | ★★★ Icarus | 60m | ||||
A great line with exposed climbing!
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17 | ★★ Vortex | 45m | ||||
First climb at the Moon is a ripsnorter!
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Tue 3rd Apr 2018 - Moonarie | ||||||
Checkers Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Pine Crack | 65m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tue 20th Mar 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ The Janicepts | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Still love this route!
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21 | ★★★ The Janicepts | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sun 18th Mar 2018 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Psychopath | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
18 | ★★★ The Eternity | 22m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
15 | ★★ The Pharaoh | 33m | ★ Good | |||
15 | ★★ The Carthaginian | 33m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 7th Jan 2018 - Ben Lomond | ||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | ||||||
21 |
★★★ Dangerman (Dangerman P1)
1
| 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Mega
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21 | ★★★ Aquilla | 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Insane
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17 | ★★★ Barbe Di Vendetta | 90m | ||||
Beautiful
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Sat 6th Jan 2018 - Ben Lomond | ||||||
Northern Escarpment Robin's Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Defender of the Faith | 70m | ||||
Awesome
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19 | ★★★ Ramadan | 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Amazing
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18 |
★★★ Rajah (Rajah P1)
1
| 80m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Incredible
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Wed 3rd Jan 2018 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Bulging Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Black Magic | 55m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Beauty long route
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18 | ★★★ Black Magic | 55m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Abseil ropes got stuck so had to reclimb the 50m pitch on self belay to free the knot. Mileage...
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Wed 3rd Jan 2018 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Central Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Third Bird | 80m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sky rocketing crack line! Delectable
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19 18 | ★★★ Battle Cruiser | 74m | ★★★ Classic | |||
More stellar hand jamming
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Tue 2nd Jan 2018 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
Lost World Area Lost World | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Atlantis | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Amazing varied crack climb
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22 | ★★★ Savage Journey | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Burly fist crack, have to fight for it! Sustained but just enough rest jams
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Mon 1st Jan 2018 - The Paradiso | ||||||
22 | ★★ Belly Of The Beasts - with Sami | 23m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Rad awkward trad route with weird moves and either questionable or totally stonker gear
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Sun 31st Dec 2017 - Fortescue Bay | ||||||
The Moai | ||||||
16 | ★ The Moai Escape (The Moai Eascape.) - with Sami | 60m | ||||
By headlamp on the tibloc
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22 | ★★★ Blunt instrument/Burning spear P2 Link-Up - with Sami | 35m, 8 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Sacred Site - with Sami | 30m, 2 | ||||
New years eve on the moai pure bliss
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Fri 29th Dec 2017 - Federation Peak | ||||||
North-West Face and Blade Ridge | ||||||
18 | ★★ The North West Face Direct - with Sami | 320m | ||||
Luckily we had a spare day to climb NW face in consolation prize, no suprise we climbed the wrong start requiring a 30m abseil off tree roots to below Blade ridge to get back on route. Rest of the climb was cruisy, the crux roof pitch had a good bite to it! Sensational views up there! Worth it for the heinous 13hr approach? Find out for yourself!
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Sat 23rd Dec 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Lunch Ledge | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Samarkand | 150m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Finally got around to giving this awesome trad multi a crack with William Skea, what a super route! Very intimidating, the position, and the committing access, but the climbing itself is amazing and well protected. P2 crux is quite tricky when it goes to steep thin hands just before jugs! Only needs one extra handjam to make it a 23.
We rapped in, using a lot of directional pieces on the middle pitches. Should have taken more bolt plates biners and slings for leaving on anchors.
Highly recommended!
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Sat 16th Dec 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ The Janicepts | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Repeat clean , love this climb. My favourite in all Blue Mountains
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21 | ★★★ The Janicepts | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Speed run, 2 mins 50s. Trying to beat Dans unbelievable time of 1:30.
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Sat 16th Dec 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
22 | ★★★ On Edge | 28m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very nice arete! High first bolt, stick clipped from the first good hold 3m up
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17 | ★★★ Flake Crack | 53m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Always fun
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Sun 10th Dec 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Pierces Pass Pierces Pass East Side | ||||||
23 | ★★ Disco Biscuit - with William Skea | 250m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tradventure! Good scary day out, though not as bad as the reputation lead on. 5 long pitches with plenty of belay repositionings. Last pitch is the highlight! About 6 hrs car to car.
The start is at the obvious twin corners 3-4m wide, start up the right hand side then after a few metres work back to left side. |
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Sat 25th Nov 2017 - Bungonia Gorge | ||||||
South Wall - Main | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Evolution | 220m, 55 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
That was amazing. The rock quality was so much better than red supergiant! P4-6 lived up to the hype! Stoked to get as high as the last bolt on P6 before finally peeling off the slopers. Wild! Was great climbing with two other parties on different parts of south wall all loving the Gifts of Bungonia together
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Mon 30th Oct 2017 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | ||||||
19 | ★★ Lysander | 56m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awesome varied jamming up a proud line
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17 | ★ Zoro's Toaster | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bring a #3 cam for a placement above the ledge. I slung a dodgy chicken head ; would have better with the cam
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15 | ★★ Zarathustra | 70m | ★★ Very Good | |||
68 seconds. Couldn't quite get it down to a minute
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15 | ★★ Zarathustra | 70m | ★★ Very Good | |||
75 seconds. Getting slower. Time to do something else
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18 | ★★★ Inversion | 60m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very nice long corner crack! worth doing
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21 | ★★ The Slider | 60m | ★ Good | |||
Good corner crack which becomes steep for a few moves, but the top slab is very dirty!
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Mon 23rd Oct 2017 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Bayside The Deeps Area | ||||||
19 | ★★★ The Deeps - with Belle Tukin | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Fantastic first climb of the weekend, started from the bottom, there was rope drag, just an incentive to place less gear and soak up the atmosphere
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Sun 8th Oct 2017 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall | ||||||
20 |
★★ Ben Trovato (Ben Trovato P1)
1
| 150m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Cool to warm up on a trad climb for a varied day
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Mon 2nd Oct 2017 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Old Baldy Lower Cliff | ||||||
19 | ★★ Ghoul | 60m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Amazing route! As good as Sizzler! One sustained 60m pitch of sick, steep handcrack to the top of lower baldy. Face splitter. Sensational. One of the best routes on Lower Baldy.
Tree belay then easy scramble up to upper baldy.
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Sat 30th Sep 2017 - Wolgan Valley | ||||||
Coal Mines Cliff | ||||||
16 | ★★ Conspiracy - with Alastair McDowell | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun long pitch, with steffi
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20 | ★★★ Barton's Effort | 35m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Crimping at golden hour, really sweet face climb
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20 | ★★★ TDM | 35m | ||||
Finger crack! Awkward move through the roof into sustained locking up the slab
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