Ascents in Oatlands as various tick types by Brendan Heywood

Tommy's beta of double knee bar didn't work so great for me, I keep them out with left toe flag on the roof and dead point the right hand.

Did a harder direct variant which avoids the big nest jug. Maybe this is the proper way?

Tommy Krauss showed me some beta which made this really easy, flash pumped on the mantle and got it second try. Stoked!

Sick! First proper play on this I'd always thought it looked really hard. First attempt stuck the first 4-5 moves and knew it would go. Ticked it on 3rd or 4th attempt. Now I gotta work the linkup into 'fire in the hole'

Want to do the side mantle variant finish

Started raining right after

Another lap, completely dialed

Super stoked with this, smashed it first time - almost a flash as last time I think I had my blundies on. Every move static, V7 is a bit rich with the knee bar...

So we did it again a whole bunch of ways, I ticked with a no hands rest on the knee bar, Liam Green was working a campus version without the knee bar, but the mega tick for me was doing it directly without the knee bar, which I'm guessing is the way the original ascent happened which feels like a real V7

For the first time actually tried this moving to right slopey gaston and then left to high crimp. Probably a bit easier than the other way I've been doing it with the knee bar.

Another lap to warm up, never get sick of it

Did this going way left which seems easier, maybe V4, then another lap with dyno to lip, then few more laps getting it dialed and perfectly static with right heel hook in the roof jug.

Did this but fairly differently to Chris and Foong who could ape their way up to the side pull. I used the left knob (possibly off route?) and just mantled directly up with out the side pull. Probably V3

Another lap as a warmup, took 3 goes to get it again. love it!

Almost first go, blew on on the last move. Clean second time

Took a bunch of goes to work the first 5 moves. After I got it I couldn't repeat it, want to do it less desperately.

Did the crux onsight and then blew on a sandy hold up top. Couldn't do it the way Foong did with the reach over left with your right hand

Did the more direct version, grab the good pinch with right instead of left, then bump out to jug on right and then chin up as you swing to avoid the dreaded bum dab

Seems to stump all of us, then found a higher side pull which unlocked it

onsight of first half, over mud with no pad, up to the start of Kitchen Bitch

Cool little problem, has bomber foot locks. I found the right heel a bit sketchy so just went direct.

And not simply content with finally sending a V7 I had to go send another one. Almost the same sequence. I think it was also 4th attempt. Hardest move is getting established on the starting slopers, the roof jugs and mantle and easy.

My first ever V7! Super stoked and what a problem. As the devil's kitchen is now 15cm under water we walked in a dozen milk crates and set up the pads on that. Pretty comical at times and painful when it goes bad. Tommy and I both got it 4th try. The new best highlight of the day!

Flashed in muddy blundstones

Finally sent! One fumbled misstart, but then clean all the way second time. Amazing what is possible when fresh

Warmup

Another lap as a workup, felt harder than I remember. Probably a signal that I was thrashed

Fun little thing

Happy to jump on and do another lap without faffing around

Sweet! Felt a bit cheated with the knee bar which made it heaps easier