Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Mon 14th Jul 2008 - Meadow River | ||||||
Upper Meadow First Buttress | ||||||
5.11c | Andoullie | |||||
5.11b | ★ Sausage | 12m, 4 | ||||
5.11c | Andoullie | Average | ||||
5.12a | ★★★ Push | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tue 1st Jul 2008 - Meadow River | ||||||
Upper Meadow Second Buttress | ||||||
5.10d | ★ Load | ★ Good | ||||
5.10d | ★ Load | |||||
5.10d | ★ Load | Average | ||||
Good warm up for the area
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Sat 14th Jun 2008 - Meadow River | ||||||
Upper Meadow First Buttress | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Push | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Excellent face climb, very long with a nice break in the middle.
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5.12a | ★★★ Push | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Excellent face climbing
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Sun 1st Jun 2008 - Meadow River | ||||||
Upper Meadow First Buttress | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Lamda | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Excellent face climbing
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5.12a | ★★ Lamda | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.12a | ★★ Lamda | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Excellent face climb
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Sun 23rd Mar 2008 - Tennessee Wall | ||||||
T Wall East | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ In Pursuit of Excellence | 27m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Excellent corner hand crack, extremely fun.
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5.11b | ★★★ Stone Wave | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Climbed with Bill M. Excellent climb, starts with in a roof and continues through roofy bulge with a crack that continues throught the head wall.
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5.9 | ★★ Finagle | 15m | Average | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Roof start to face climbing, nothing overly special.
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5.10c | ★★★ Finger Lockin' Good | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Excellent finger crack. Mega Classic of the area for a reason, although I think the 10c rating may be pushing it by two letter grades or more.
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Sat 22nd Mar 2008 - Tennessee Wall | ||||||
T Wall East | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Razor Worm | 32m | Average | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Leisure crack climbing. Little short due to starting at the top of a 25' block.
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5.8 5.9 | ★★★ Golden Locks | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Nice face finger crack to top, fairly leisure.
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5.10a | ★★ Precious Orr | 24m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Vert Nice wide crack system to the top, small roof about 1/2 of the way that turns in to a buldging head wall. The climb is located on the other side of the gully from Golden Locks (to the right if looking at Golden Locks).
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5.10b | ★★ Digital Macabre | 23m | ★ Good | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Pulling through the roof was not all that difficult and is not the crux of the climb.
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Fri 21st Mar 2008 - Tennessee Wall | ||||||
T Wall East | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Plastic Toys | 24m | Average | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Good climb for entry leaders, starts atop block.
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5.10a | ★★★ Cakewalk | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Nice dihedral finger crack that transitions to face finger crack about 1/3 of the way up.
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5.10c | ★★ Points O' Contact | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Excellent finger to roof to finger crack.
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Tue 4th Mar 2008 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Diamond Point | ||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Leave It To Jesus | 34m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mon 22nd Oct 2007 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Kaymoor The Glory Hole | ||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Devil Doll | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Often over looked climb that breaks left after first 3 bolts on Lactic Acid Bath. Last couple of moves are frequently wet due to run off; unfortunately they are not gimme moves but still doable if moist. Well worth a run if the top looks dry.
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Sat 1st Sep 2007 - Meadow River | ||||||
Upper Meadow Third Buttress | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Skull in Hole | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Shor fun climb with a bouldery crux.
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Sat 1st Sep 2007 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Fantasy Area | ||||||
5.11c | ★ Mr. Fantasy | 14m | Average | |||
5.10b | ★ Fantasy Direct Finish | 38m | Average | |||
5.8 | ★★★ Fantasy | 40m | Average | |||
5.12a | Fantasy Face | 24m, 6 | Average | |||
Sat 23rd Jun 2007 - Summersville Lake | ||||||
Main Area The Coliseum | ||||||
5.13b | ★★★ Mercy Seat | 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
With Mikey as my belay talisman!
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Thu 14th Jun 2007 - Yosemite National Park | ||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Daff Area Daff Dome West Face Right | ||||||
5.9 5.10b | ★★★ Crescent Arch | 150m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Partnered with Bill. I lead pitches 1 & 3. Excellent climb. 2nd & 3rd pitches are just plain fun and the 4th pitch is stellar.
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Wed 13th Jun 2007 - Yosemite National Park | ||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Fairview Area Fairview Dome West Face | ||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Lucky Streaks | 180m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Partnered with Bill. I lead pitches 1,2,6.
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Tue 12th Jun 2007 - Yosemite National Park | ||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Mariuolumne Area Drug Dome | ||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Oz | 150m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Partnered with Bill. I lead pitches 1 & 3. Pitch 1 is a little run out at the start, but all there. Pitch 3, dihedral is one of the most enjoyable pitches I've done.
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Tue 12th Jun 2007 - Yosemite National Park | ||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Mariuolumne Area Mariuolumne Dome West Face | ||||||
5.7 5.7 R | ★★ Hobbit Book | 200m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Partnered with Bill. We did this after OZ to round out the day. Fun climb. The run out face climbing on pitch 3 is nothing to worry about despite the description in Supertopo; very solid rock with easy climbing. I wouldn't expect anyone solid at 5.8 would have any problems, the issue would be keeping a cool head. You can also sling some of the flakes.
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Mon 11th Jun 2007 - Yosemite National Park | ||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Medlicott Area Medlicott Dome Far West | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Ciebola | ★ Good | ||||
Partnered with Bill. SANDBAG. Interesting first pitch. Very thin gear start. Last bolt to anchors is exciting to a little scary. About 20 foot run to anchor. We didn't do sencond pitch due to the heat.
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Sun 10th Jun 2007 - Yosemite National Park | ||||||
Tuolumne Meadows Medlicott Area Medlicott Dome East | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Shagadelic | 130m | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Super Chicken | ★ Good | ||||
First pitch not much to write home about. Second pitch very nice
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Sun 10th Jun 2007 - Yosemite National Park | ||||||
Yosemite Valley The Royal Arches Serenity Crack Area | ||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Serenity Crack | 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Partnered with Bill. Lead pitches 1&2. The bolt was removed from the first pitch protecting the first 30 feet of climbing. Managed to get in a .75 with two lobes at about 15 feet, and good piece right next to where the bolt used to be located.
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Sun 20th May 2007 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | ||||||
5.12b | ★★ Grace Note | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
If this climb is 12b, there are very few moves below that grade. Very good quality cimb.
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Sat 19th May 2007 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | ||||||
5.10a | Enteruptus | 21m | Average | |||
Nice climb until half way through the traverse, where you encounter all the dirt from run off. Unfortunately these are also the crux moves.
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Sun 22nd Apr 2007 - Meadow River | ||||||
Upper Meadow Second Buttress | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Bullocks | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
5.12a | ★★ Schneezal | 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The book states 8 bolts, plan for two extra bolts and the full use of a 60m rope.
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Sun 4th Mar 2007 - Meadow River | ||||||
Upper Meadow First Buttress | ||||||
5.11c | Andoullie | Average | ||||
5.10a | ★ Ben Dunne | Average | ||||
5.11b | ★ Sausage | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
5.11b | ★ Sausage | 12m, 4 | ||||
5.10d 5.11a | ★★ Cross-Eyed and Blind | 24m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5.11c | Andoullie | |||||
Sun 17th Sep 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Kaymoor Rico Suave Buttress | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Preparation H | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 17th Sep 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Barb Wire | 26m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 17th Sep 2006 - Seneca | ||||||
North Peak West Face Bell Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Madmen Only | 26m | ||||
Sun 17th Sep 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Badass Tattoo | 26m, 10 | Average | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Bikini Line | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 17th Sep 2006 - Seneca | ||||||
South Peak East Face | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Nip and Tuck | 43m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 17th Sep 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ G-String | 24m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | Celtic Sun | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
5.10d | ★★ Lieback and Enjoy It | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10c | ★★ Kinesthetica | 27m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 2nd Sep 2006 - Red Rock | ||||||
Black Velvet Canyon Whisky Peak | ||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Frogland | 290m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Climbed with Bill. Six pitches. Fun, cruser climbing. Completed the route in about 3-3.5 hours.
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Fri 1st Sep 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Fantasy Area | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Blackhappy | 26m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Stout 12b.
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Sun 20th Aug 2006 - Seneca | ||||||
South Peak East Face | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ The Changeling | 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed with Bill. Less than perfect conditions for this climb. High humidity and temperature made thin crux sections difficult.
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Sun 20th Aug 2006 - Seneca | ||||||
South Peak West Face | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Agony | 55m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed with Bill. One hang in offwidth section. Remember not to put cam in key hand jam.
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Sun 6th Aug 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | ||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Rod Sterling Crack | 23m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Excellent line, dihedral under roof back to face crack.
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Sun 6th Aug 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Stuck In Another Dimension | 23m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Climbed with Bill M, Mike T. took photos. All I can say is WOW, this is an awesome climb. The moves are as beautiful as the climb looks. First attempt, took a 15 footer at the final hard roof move on a #1.
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Sun 6th Aug 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Beauty Mountain Thunder Buttress | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Screamer Crack | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Offwidth, dihedral.
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Sun 6th Aug 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | ||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Burning Calves | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Face crack.
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Sun 6th Aug 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Beauty Mountain Thunder Buttress | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Mushrooms | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Face Crack.
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Sun 6th Aug 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Quick Robin, To The Bat Crack! (The Bat Crack) | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed with Bill M. Deceiving more difficult than it looks from the ground.
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5.10b | ★★ Wham, Bam, Thanks For The Jam | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed wit Bill M. Starts on "spider wand" off width, wrap around corner about halfway to fun face crack.
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Sun 6th Aug 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | ||||||
5.9 | ★ V-Slot (Ride A Rock Horse) | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed with Bill. Really good Off Width climb. Good warm up to "Stuck in Another Dimension".
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Mon 3rd Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Fern Buttress Orchard Wall | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Anal Clenching Adventures | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed with Mike K, and Bill.
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Sat 1st Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Rapscallion's Blues | 18m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
One of the best trad routes I've done. Start with a low angle, steep dihedral. Reducing angle leads to more tenuous face moves, to finish with some fun roof moves. Belayed Bill, he cleaned on the way down for me to attempt.
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5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite (New Yosemite (Climbing Under The Influence)) | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent route, though a little short.
Mike K & Bill |
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5.11c | ★ Andropov's Cold | 9m | Average | |||
Really short, thin crack. To top out at the top of the cliff requires climbing a really dirty face around the arete.
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5.10b | ★★ Team Jesus | 20m | ★ Good | |||
One move wonder, but a fun route none-the-less.
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Sat 1st Jul 2006 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Fern Buttress Wild Seed Area | ||||||
5.10d | Chameleon | 15m | Average | |||
short
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Sun 18th Jun 2006 - Seneca | ||||||
The Southern Pillar | ||||||
5.11a | ★ Ambush | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Climbed with Billy.
Fun, steep and juggy. But this climb is a house of cards waiting to come down. Carefull you don't pull the upper floor of cards down onto your belayer.
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5.10a | ★★ The Judgement Seat | 66m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed with Billy.
Seams a tad bit harder than 10a.
I would personally avoid belaying from the tree (everything here is loose which brings into question what the tree is really rooted in). Recommend using the belay ledge for Roy Chimney gap, rap there or to the block party ancors (60 meter rope does not make ground). |
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5.10a | ★★ Daytripper | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed with Billy.
Excellent route.
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Sun 18th Jun 2006 - Seneca | ||||||
South Peak West Face | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Le Gourmet Direct (Le Gourmet Direct Start (to be merged with Le Gourmet Direct)) | 34m | ★★ Very Good | |||
climbed with Billy
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Sun 14th May 2006 - Seneca | ||||||
South Peak East Face | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Spock's Brain | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
It may not look like it, but the gear is all there.
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Sat 29th Oct 2005 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Honeymooner's Area | ||||||
5.13a | ★★★ Quinsana Plus | 27m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fri 24th Jun 2005 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Hellbound Area | ||||||
5.12a | ★ Hell Bound For Glory | 26m | Don't Bother | |||
Crap!
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Fri 24th Jun 2005 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Beauty Mountain The Brain | ||||||
5.10d | ★ Hot Flash | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Trad. No anchors. Schetchy top out on moss roots.
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2005 - Seneca | ||||||
South Peak East Face | ||||||
5.9 | ★★★ High Test | 44m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2005 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Fern Buttress Just Send It Wall | ||||||
5.13b | ★★★ Just Send It | 21m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Blew the clip right after the crux leaving the draw on the bolt. What else to say...1.5 hours, two bladder releases by my belayer. I did make it to the top and get my draw back though.
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2003 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Diamond Point | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Homer Erectus | 26m, 9 | ||||
Mon 1st Jul 2002 - Yosemite National Park | ||||||
Yosemite Valley Half Dome Southwest Face | ||||||
5.7 5.7 R | ★★★ Snake Dike | 550m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Date unknown, need to figure it out. Climbed with Bill. Beautiful long hike in, really fun climb to get you to the top, and a long hike out (longer if you are Bill and missing a toe nail at mile 2 of 10). We were both burnt to a crisp by the time we summited. Expect long run outs between bolts.
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Mon 1st Jul 2002 - Yosemite National Park | ||||||
Yosemite Valley The Royal Arches Serenity Crack Area | ||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Serenity Crack | 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I led 1st and 3rd pitch. Bill led second. I slipped while transitioning cracks on second pitch.
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Mon 1st Jul 2002 - Yosemite National Park | ||||||
Yosemite Valley Cathedral Rocks Middle Cathedral Rock Northeast Face | ||||||
5.10a 5.9 | ★★★ Central Pillar of Frenzy | 170m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbed with Bill
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Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Gray's Branch Region Left Flank | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Infectious | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
short and bouldery
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Tue 13th Apr 2010 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Kaymoor The Glory Hole | ||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Lactic Acid Bath | 23m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Natural Bridge Region Torrent Falls | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Bandolier | 21m, 7 | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Summersville Lake | ||||||
Main Area D.C. Memorial Boulder | ||||||
5.12b | ★ All the Way Baby (Animal Logic) | 3 | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Seneca | ||||||
South Peak West Face | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Traffic Jam | 12m | Average | |||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Summersville Lake | ||||||
Main Area Orange Oswald Wall | ||||||
5.8 5.7 | ★★ Hippie Dreams | 23m, 7 | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Seneca | ||||||
South Peak West Face | ||||||
5.4 | ★★ Ecstasy Junior | 46m | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Summersville Lake | ||||||
Main Area Long Wall | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Ingrate | 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Beauty Mountain Blocks Area | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Chunky Monkey | 20m | ★★★ Classic |