Showing all 93 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 18th Jul 2010 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
15 18 | Anti Scuttler | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Thin and slabby - run out and desperate at times. This route is 18 not 15 as it says here!
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16 | ★ Pox Travels Fast | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Run out at the top, but it's pretty easy up there
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18 | ★ Cobwebs | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Hand jams in the breaks and thin on the face
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Sun 27th Jun 2010 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Insomnia Cave Rock | ||||||
14 | No Sorry It Makes Me Fart | 9m | ★ Good | |||
An easy romp - perfect for beginner lead.
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11 | More Tea Vicar? | 9m | Average | |||
Inadvertently soloed - dragging the rope up with me! Essentially a no-pro route.
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15 | Observatory | 20m | Average | |||
The pro on this flaring rounded crack really isn't great - beware. Bailed and toproped instead - to my relief.
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19 | Leon the Klepto Cat | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Really tough traverse from cavelet to crack - well protected by a bolt though, so I think that with the cam up in the top break I might run a pink at this in the future.
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Sun 27th Jun 2010 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
17 | ★ Ikon | 10m | Average | |||
This version is very silly - do Direct variant instead.
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17 | ★ Lurgi Meets Plate Tectonics | 12m | ★ Good | |||
A little chossy and unclimbed - but it's still a better route than CE.
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Sun 20th Jun 2010 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
19 | ★★ Mescalito | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A little run out at the bottom, but pro is good up top with cams between bolts.
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18 19 | The Phantom Bolter Strikes Again | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The guide talks about a ripped hold, but I don't see how this could get any easier for a 19.
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20 | ★★ Cranky | 7m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
BJ classic - everyone should steam up this one.
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Thu 4th Mar 2010 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
15 | ★★ Cosmic Ecology | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tough start but easy out of the roof throwing in cams all the way.
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Fri 26th Feb 2010 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
19 | ★ Ikon Direct | 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Reachy, balancy and great value
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Wed 10th Feb 2010 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
18 | ★ Borcat Blues | 20m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Flared, sandy breaks make for some dubious cam placements - you're happier when you clip those bolts!
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19 | ★★ Not Your Average Cab Sav | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sustained throughout - some classic BJ thinness with great pro
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Thu 19th Nov 2009 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
14 | ★ Domino | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Bring some big pro and wedge yourself in
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15 | Tropico | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Get inventive with the pro because it's a bit sparse to the first bolt
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19 | ★★ Central Pillar of Mordor | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
The cam placement mentioned in the guide looked pretty flakey to me, which is a great pity because this line has all the makings of a total classic. Oh, for a bolt!
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18 | ★★ Liquid Insanity | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thin start to run-out first bolt
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Fri 25th Sep 2009 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
17 | ★ Enterprise Variant | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Very thin start then easy sustained climbing. The variant finish is much easier than E, but is more run-out without the standard route's top bolt.
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14 | Hemholtz Tunglebung's Stupidity | 6m, 1 | Average | |||
Unprotected all the way to the bolt before the top-out. The microcam placement the guide mentions is wishful thinking.
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14 | Computer Sox | 7m | Average | |||
Very chossy - and not worth a star
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10 | Celluloid Heroes | 10m | Average | |||
Easy to stray off route - and that makes things much harder!
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Fri 18th Sep 2009 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
16 | ★ Tangerine Dream | 15m | Average | |||
Brain-shrinkingly large run-out before the bolt
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18 | ★★ Marsupial Smearer | 20m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
A very thin start past the first two bolts - but he is the smearer after all!
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Sun 13th Sep 2009 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
15 | ★ Facet | 16m | Average | |||
Not great for the arachnophobes!
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16 | ★ Abseil Wall | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Crackalicious
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16 | ★ Mode | 14m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Very thin start but good after that
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Mon 22nd Jan 2007 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
14 14 R | ★ Elf Town | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Crimpy in places but mostly bomber.
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14 | ★ Carrie Bradshaw | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
The juggiest holds known to man.
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17 17 R | Cramp Ons | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Enjoyable and well protected.
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14 | ★ Judgement Day | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Good bit of chimney at the top.
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18 | ★★ Liquid Insanity | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Fingery start much like MS.
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18 | ★★ Enterprise | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Sex... in rock form.
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19 | ★ Arachibutyrophobia | 20m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Tough from the very beginning to the second bolt. Super fingery and unprotected start.
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18 | ★★ Marsupial Smearer | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sparse difficult beginning moves, but great for it!
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Sun 21st Jan 2007 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
18 | ★★ Enterprise | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Like MS and LI on this wall, Enterprise is the finger-master. Tough start but great climbing.
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Sun 14th Jan 2007 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
18 | ★★ Marsupial Smearer | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sparse difficult beginning moves, but great for it!
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19 | ★ Benign | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Very fingery to start. Crux is at top - but well protected. A real make or break move!
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18 | ★★ Enterprise | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Enterprise is the finger-master. Tough start but great climbing.
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16 | ★ Pan Pacific Wall | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lots of breaks for cams. Crux lies in top half, with section of sparse fingeriness.
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18 | ★ Sand Syringe | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Pro gets sparse towards the top - have to sling the large dinner plate flake or make longish ascent unprotected. Excellent footholds and bomber cam placement soon after, though.
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17 | Cramp Ons | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Excellent sustained climbing - well protected.
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16 | ★ Pox Travels Fast | 15m | Average | |||
Chimney start and fairly sparse on the face from then on. Short and no great rhythm.
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Sat 16th Sep 2006 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
16 | ★ Pan Pacific Wall | 16m | Average | |||
Lots of breaks for cams. Crux lies in top half, with section of sparse fingeriness.
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13 | ★ Two Steps Forward | 20m, 1 | Average | |||
Easy climbing just like Jezebel - not as well protected though.
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16 | ★ Benign Variant Finish | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Fingery to start - greasy after rain.
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Sun 3rd Sep 2006 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
14 14 R | ★ Elf Town | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Crimpy in places with the occasional bomber pocket. Satisfying.
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5 | Exit Tortons | 13m | Don't Bother | |||
Often used as an access path
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19 | ★ Ikon Direct | 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very fingery and smeary throughout. Long runout between BR2 and ring - bring the kevlar undies for this one late in the day.
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19 | ★★ Long Line of Leanings | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climb with interesting overhang start at cave. Get grunting!
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16 | ★ Mode | 14m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Sustained climbing - a good lead to kickstart the day.
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19 | ★ Benign | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Tough until you know the whereabouts of the top hold (up and right). Topout is a featureless domed sloper otherwise!
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Sat 29th Jul 2006 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
19 | ★★ Mescalito | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sparse and smeary in places with some bomber underclings to rest. Recommend a 0.5 cam in left crack to prevent decking.
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14 | ★ Judgement Day | 20m | ★ Good | |||
One of the more challenging chimneys at Barrenjoey. Good fun.
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16 | ★ Mode | 14m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Fairly fingery - easy to get a pump on whilst clipping pro.
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19 | ★★ Long Line of Leanings | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climb with interesting overhang start at cave. Pro is good - can see this being lead.
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Sun 9th Jul 2006 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Insomnia Cave Rock | ||||||
10 | Baby Steps | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Really easy going - would be a good lead for a novice.
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11 | More Tea Vicar? | 9m | Average | |||
The climb is nothing to write home about - the view from the top is worth seeing.
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Sun 9th Jul 2006 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
14 | ★ Carrie Bradshaw | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Loads of bomber hand holds. Good clean fun.
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Sun 9th Jul 2006 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Insomnia Cave Rock | ||||||
14 | No Sorry It Makes Me Fart | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Nice smeary, fingery between BR 1 and 2. Overhang at top also a good challenge.
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Sun 9th Jul 2006 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
16 | ★ Abseil Wall | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Crack climbing. A great sequence of technical moves - top stuff!
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Sun 2nd Jul 2006 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
14 | ★ Carrie Bradshaw | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Loads of bomber hand holds. Good clean fun.
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11 | Ray's Moppy | 10m | Average | |||
Easy climb that obviously doesn't get much traffic. Holds are a bit sandy.
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16 | ★ Benign Variant Finish | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Quite fingery in places, but well bolted.
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14 | ★ Starboard Barnacles | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Fingery holds tough in places at the end of the day. Not a lot of rests.
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10 | Cythaul Haul | 12m | ★ Good | |||
A pleasant climb - route is nice and clean compared to other similar low grades.
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14 | ★★ Pledge a Legend | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Climb partner took a hefty whipper off the far side of the traverse - had to take over lead. If you needed a reason to go out an buy a helmet, this is it.
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19 | ★ Ikon Direct | 10m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Started as a lead but had to restart as TR. Enormous run-out between 2nd BR and ring. Cup of tea too strong for an onsight lead today! Excellent climb though.
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13 | Krill | 6m | ★ Good | |||
Interesting move in middle - challenging for a 13.
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Sat 24th Jun 2006 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
15 | Tropico | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Easy, fun climb. Slow to dry after rain.
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16 | ★ Wild Ride | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting overhang start to first BR. Long sparse dome near top an interesting challenge - go left! Belay position on top of triangular block is a little awkward but gives a great view.
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18 | ★ Borcat Blues | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Typical of most climbs on this wall - fingery slabs between horizontal breaks for cams. Nice moves.
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16 | ★ Tangerine Dream | 15m | Average | |||
Some tough fingery sections and not a lot of opportunities for pro. Easy to get a wicked pump on with a rather unsettling amount of line out.
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Sun 18th Jun 2006 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
9 | ★ Jezebel | 11m, 2 | Average | |||
18 | ★ Sand Syringe | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Pro gets sparse towards the top - have to sling the large dinner plate flake or make longish ascent unprotected. Excellent footholds and bomber cam placement soon after, though.
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16 | ★ Abseil Wall | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Crack climbing. A great sequence of technical moves - top stuff!
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16 | ★ Professor Wigginsworth's Chunder Bucket | 20m, 3 | Don't Bother | |||
Can't say I'm really sold on this one - doesn't have the 'flow' that a lot of better climbs in the area have. Of course, YMMV.
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14 | ★★ Pledge a Legend | 16m | ★ Good | |||
No pro across the traverse - just have to sack-up and punch it!
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Sun 28th May 2006 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
18 | ★★ Liquid Insanity | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Fingery start much like MS.
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14 | ★★ Pledge a Legend | 16m | ★ Good | |||
No pro across the traverse - just have to sack-up and punch it!
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19 | ★★ Not Your Average Cab Sav | 20m | ★ Good | |||
You're right, it isn't your average cab sav!
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15 | ★★ Crack of Dawn | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
An excellent climb for someone new to leading.
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9 | ★ Hang Over | 12m | Don't Bother | |||
This one rates 1-star - honestly, I dont see it. Too short and too easy.
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Sun 14th May 2006 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
18 | ★★ Marsupial Smearer | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sparse difficult beginning moves, but great for it!
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9 | ★ Jezebel | 11m, 2 | Average | |||
18 | ★ Cobwebs | 15m | Average | |||
16 | ★ Pan Pacific Wall | 16m | Average | |||
14 | ★★ Pledge a Legend | 16m | Average | |||
11 | ★ Orgasmic | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 9th Apr 2006 - Barrenjoey | ||||||
Southwest | ||||||
14 | ★ Starboard Barnacles | 20m | Average | |||
16 | ★ Professor Wigginsworth's Chunder Bucket | 20m, 3 | Average |
Showing all 93 ascents.