Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mon 30th Dec 2013 - Waitpinga | ||||||
Cephalopod Wall | ||||||
13 | ★ Mercy - with Sam Moffat | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lowering through the rings caused super rope twistyness.
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17 | ★★ Stimulus Package - with Sam Moffat | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Great atmosphere looking over Mollusc Wall. Climbing at bit broken up. I often found myself straying right of the line.
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12 | ★ Sea Lion Pup - with Sam Moffat | 30m | ★ Good | |||
16 | ★★ Smooth and Easy - with Sam Moffat | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 29th Dec 2013 - Morialta | ||||||
The Boulder Bridge | ||||||
19 | ★ Popeye - with Nick Chappell | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Struggling to find new things to do at Boulder Bridge. Got it second shot, felt more like 19 than 20. Close enough to get a good look at the boulder bridge. Let's hope it lasts for many more years to come.
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11 | ★ Sham 'n' Eggs - with Nick Chappell | 10m | Average | |||
Tried a variant without touching the "Big Sham" corner or reaching around to "Free and Easy" which felt very contrived and harder than 11.
I agree with Nick Neagle, "Big Sham" and "Sham 'n' Eggs" are the same route. |
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17 | Sceptre - with Nick Chappell | 16m | Don't Bother | |||
It's hard to find new things to do at Boulder Bridge. This one isn't much chop.
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11 | Olive Oyl - with Nick Chappell | 15m | Average | |||
'Balthazar' is better.
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Fri 27th Dec 2013 - Raetjen's Gap | ||||||
South West Crag | ||||||
18 | ★★ Hot Stuff - with Sofie Dean | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Gymnastic moves, barely independent from Sense of Doubt. In fact I found it easier than Doubt (on toprope, after watching Sofie climb it.)
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16 | ★ Sense of Doubt - with Sofie Dean | 13m | Average | |||
Awkward, maybe I wasn't doing it "right"
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Fri 27th Dec 2013 - Raetjen's Gap | ||||||
The Main Cliff | ||||||
12 | ★★ Miss Gnomer - with Sofie Dean | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
20 | ★ Syllogism - with Sofie Dean | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bouldery start took some sussing, got it clean on the 3rd attempt.
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Thu 26th Dec 2013 - Cleland | ||||||
Bandicoot Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★ The He Men of Yesteryear - with Nick Chappell | 13m | Average | |||
Contrived, too close to Quoll Stroll. Mossy at the top.
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19 | ★ No More Bandicoots - with Nick Chappell | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pleasant enough
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Sun 22nd Dec 2013 - Morialta | ||||||
Far Crag | ||||||
15 | ★★ Shedidit - with Aaron Nitchke | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Well protected.
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7 | Sunout - with Nick Chappell | Crap | ||||
Mediocre rambling up to wide dirty offwidth and loose rock.
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20 | ★★ Bung Right Side - with Callum Hue | 13m | ★ Good | |||
16 | ★ Golgotha - with Nick Chappell | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
17 | ★★ Resurrection - with Nick Chappell | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
15 | ★ Lords Prayer - with Nick Chappell | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The start is surely the crux.
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Tue 17th Dec 2013 - Morialta | ||||||
The Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★ Coalition - with Simon Barnett | 18m | ★ Good | |||
All right, nothing special. Bit light on protection.
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13 | ★ The Buttress - with Simon Barnett | 20m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
First lead since the ankle injury. Rock not as solid as I remember, gear down low fairly poor.
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Sat 14th Dec 2013 - The Bluff | ||||||
The Shaft Slabs | ||||||
21 | ★★ Fin de Siecle - with Hayden | 17m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Challenging, but enjoyably so.
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18 | ★★★ Richards Route - with Hayden | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pretty good, left a smile on my face.
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11 | ★ Snake Eyes - with Hayden | 17m | Average | |||
More of the same.
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17 | ★ Granita - with Hayden | 14m | Average | |||
Felt hard at the black streaks! Feels contrived as it's easy to escape left into Dopes at the start, or right up flake for 2nd half. You know when it says "Gary Scott (solo)" that this isn't a good route to lead!
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18 | Psycho - with Hayden | 8m | Average | |||
Not sure about this. Found an easier variant starting standing on the boulder to the left, also got up using the crack in the middle of the boulder, but felt very close to Shaft.
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17 | ★ A Longer, Harder Shaft - with Hayden | 30m | Average | |||
Didn't climb above the "weird shaped boulder" - a rope stretcher on top rope. I thought this was very similar to 'Shaft', not worth writing home about.
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16 | ★ Shaft - with Hayden | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Pleasant enough. Much easier than 'Granita' - all on toprope though.
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14 | ★ Nautilis - with Hayden | 17m | Average | |||
They all seemed the same by this stage.
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10 | ★ Dopes on Slopes - with Hayden | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Pleasant enough
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Thu 12th Dec 2013 - Morialta | ||||||
The Boulder Bridge | ||||||
15 | Cocolossal - with Daniel Heritage | 18m | Average | |||
Mediocre.
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Sat 30th Nov 2013 - Cleland | ||||||
Bandicoot Buttress | ||||||
15 | ★ Quoll Stroll - with Simon Barnett | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Ankle recovery going well. Enjoyed this. Tough down low and some bulges to make you think up high. Not much gear for the first half.
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17 | ★ Koala Kapers - with Simon Barnett | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Negotiating the bush at half height is the biggest challenge.
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Sat 16th Nov 2013 - Morialta | ||||||
Far Crag | ||||||
8 | ★ Al Sirrat - with Simon Barnett | 14m | ★ Good | |||
First climb after the broken ankle. 12 weeks out. Awkward/slight pain pushing up on it.
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Thu 25th Jul 2013 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
13 | ★ The Baptism - with Sam Moffat | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Got a serious wake up call on this. Apparently I'm a bit of a non-jamming bumbly and thus had to try and layback the crux, which got the blood pumping. It's quite steep for a 13.
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Wed 24th Jul 2013 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
13 14 | ★ Chameleon Connection - with Sam, Craig | 110m | ★ Good | |||
Linked 1+2. Low crux was quite strenuous. Got a bit lost on P2 and went too far right, it worked out eventually though.
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Sat 29th Jun 2013 - Morialta | ||||||
Far Crag | ||||||
20 | ★ The Crunge - with Nick Chappell | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Some reachy moves, pleasant enough.
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Mon 10th Jun 2013 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
14 | ★★ C.S. Concerto - with Callum Hue, Simon Barnett | 50m | ★ Good | |||
I have a dim memory of climbing this before, but I can't be sure. Good climb anyway.
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Thu 23rd May 2013 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Oceanoid - with Viv Hughan | 75m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Hard hard hard! Pushed me to my limit. I was stoked when I was through the crux on P1, but there was plenty more to come. Used all draws and cams on P1, used all draws on P2. Messed up double ropes on P2 twisting them around each other. Step across scary and hard. Bottomless chimney challenging! Led all the way up to French Crack - the last overhang isn't easy either.
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Thu 23rd May 2013 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Vandal Area | ||||||
17 | ★★ Vandal - with Viv Hughan | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Linked P1+2. Start fairly strenuous. Second pitch nice. Third pitch superb.
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Wed 22nd May 2013 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque | ||||||
10 | ★ Camelot - with Viv Hughan | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Damp and slippery in the walking shoes. Viv remembering what trad is all about.
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Wed 22nd May 2013 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
16 | ★★★ Watchtower Crack - with Viv Hughan | 95m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Linked 1+2 again. Had a BD 5 cam, would be easier with a 5 and a 6.
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Tue 21st May 2013 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Jason - with Viv Hughan | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
some slick moves through the initial corner.
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16 | ★ Jason - with Viv Hughan | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
some slick moves through the initial corner.
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Tue 21st May 2013 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
15 | ★★ Ejaculation - with Viv Hughan | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
first pitch quite nice, stellar curving sickle layback on second pitch, then mediocre
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Tue 21st May 2013 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Kaiser - Resignation - with Viv Hughan | 99m | ★★★ Classic | |||
first pitch had one awkward bit, second pitch through overhang felt good, third pitch super awesome, 4th pitch mediocre.
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Sat 11th May 2013 - Morialta | ||||||
The Billiard Table | ||||||
21 | ★★ Fascination - with Viv Hughan | 16m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Finally got this out. Good feeling.
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Sun 28th Apr 2013 - Moonarie | ||||||
The Ramparts | ||||||
14 | ★★ Shangri-La - with Anton, Sam | 110m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Found P2 harder than P5. Linked P1+2. P3 nature walk simply delightful. P4 had some superb exposure, view, position - the size of the chimney is truly "epic!"
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Sat 27th Apr 2013 - Moonarie | ||||||
The Ramparts | ||||||
13 | ★★ Garden Refuse Removed Cheaply - with Anton, Sam | 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
linked P2&3. Pitch 2 stellar. Pitch 3 tough at 9!
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Fri 26th Apr 2013 - Moonarie | ||||||
Callitris Corner | ||||||
8 | Scut - with Anton, Sam | 70m | ||||
4th pitch stiff at grade.
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Fri 26th Apr 2013 - Moonarie | ||||||
Great Wall Area | ||||||
13 | ★ Aphrodite - with Anton, Sam | 55m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool slabby corner and then exposed bit on the 1st pitch, challenging steep corner on 2nd pitch.
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Thu 25th Apr 2013 - Moonarie | ||||||
Great Wall Area | ||||||
12 | ★ Finale - with Anton, Sam | 45m | ★ Good | |||
Pleasant enough, then after passing chockstone the rock deteriorated a bit.
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Thu 25th Apr 2013 - Moonarie | ||||||
Gargoyle Wall | ||||||
13 | ★★ Gargoyle - with Anton, Sam | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
As expected, the first climb of the trip brings you back to the reality of Moonarie grades!
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Sat 23rd Feb 2013 - Morialta | ||||||
The Boulder Bridge | ||||||
16 | ★ Kamikaze - with Sam Moffat | 14m | Average | |||
Not worth writing home about.
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Mon 11th Feb 2013 - Waitpinga | ||||||
Cephalopod Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ Crow's Nest - with Pip March | Don't Bother | ||||
Oh god. Starts off quite pleasant and then rapidly deteriorates. At one stage I pulled through a tough move and reached up to grab a flake inside the crack, which came off in my hand. I yelled a few choice exclamations and tossed it down, reversed the move and had a little 'moment'. Towards the top the only way I could figure to do a move was to pull my whole weight gingerly on a blade packed in with dirt that moved when I pulled on it.
Scrambled a 2nd pitch up to the "Clear the Decks" anchor. |
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19 | ★★★ Clearing Your Mind - with Darren Thompson | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Logging this again as there is a point at about half height where it is possible to move right towards 'Claw' which I think I may have done last time. This time it was straight up past the bolts though. Superb route.
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Wed 6th Feb 2013 - Morialta | ||||||
The Billiard Table | ||||||
21 | ★★ Fascination - with Darren Thompson | 16m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This went down fairly easily with my new shoes. Ran out of light for the red point, but that will come next time.
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Mon 4th Feb 2013 - Morialta | ||||||
The Billiard Table | ||||||
20 | ★★ Up The Baize - with Darren Thompson | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seemed pretty tough for 20 - all the holds ran out towards the top. I expect it will get easier with more practice.
There is some quite marked erosion/trampling going on above this climb as there is no bollard and the anchor set up is on trees. |
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Sun 3rd Feb 2013 - Morialta | ||||||
The Buttress | ||||||
13 | ★ The Buttress - with James Sunjaya | 20m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
That carrot looks like it needs to go in a CCSA museum. No longer required due to the invention of these great things called cams.
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18 | ★ Caucasian Chalk Circle - with James Sunjaya | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Sustained and gently overhanging.
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16 | Swift Parrot - with James Sunjaya | ★ Good | ||||
Bouldery start through the big roof out of the cave is easier than it looks but quite satisfying. Watch out for the terrible disintegrating holds though. Second roof nice also.
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19 | The Company of Lovers - with Garth Wimbush | Don't Bother | ||||
Contrived indeed. I tried to traverse all the way along the lip but ran into some truly horrendous rock and so commenced upwards.
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16 | ★ Street Legal - with James Sunjaya | 13m | Average | |||
Nothing special.
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13 | ★ A Question of Balance - with James Sunjaya | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Pleasant enough.
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13 | ★ The Inverted Rasp - with James Sunjaya | 16m | Average | |||
Mediocre.
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13 | Lorikeet - with James Sunjaya | 18m | Average | |||
One interesting bit moving across and around the roof.
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Fri 1st Feb 2013 - Morialta | ||||||
The Buttress | ||||||
21 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS - with Darren Thompson | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Reminds me of fascination which reminds me of muesli. (Gently overhanging left facing flake with plenty of side pulling.)
1 sit on the first try, got it 2nd go. Rattly flake down low a little concerning, learnt quickly how to climb without touching it. |
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18 | ★ Close to the Edge | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Climbed on both the L and R of the arete. Some poor rock along the way added to the fun.
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19 | ★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS LHV - with Darren Thompson | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Up to the crack is nice but not worth writing home about. A couple of moves in the offwidth crack then caused me some difficulty, and afterwards a powerful finish.
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Thu 31st Jan 2013 - Morialta | ||||||
The Billiard Table | ||||||
20 | ★ Gang of Four - with Darren Thompson | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Groin stretching step right was very stretchy!
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20 | ★★ Fascination - with Darren Thompson | 16m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
18 | ★ Wee Swinger - with Darren Thompson | 20m | Average | |||
Stepped right at the end into Gang of Four, need to try the finish in the corner sometime.
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Tue 29th Jan 2013 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
16 |
★ Decibel
- with
Toby
1
lead by
me
2
| 50m | ★ Good | |||
Climbed P1 only. Ambling until the quite pronounced but well protected crux.
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9 | ★ Keyboard - with Toby | 25m | Average | |||
Mon 28th Jan 2013 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs John's Pinnacle | ||||||
14 | ★ Shoadee - with Toby Phillips | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Was quite nervous about the first few moves, then saw the gear, placed it from the ground, swung on and cruised across without any issues at all. Great fun climb.
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Mon 28th Jan 2013 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
11 |
★ Eagle Cleft
- with
Toby Phillips
1
2
lead by
Walk
2
11
lead by
Me
3
11
lead by
Toby
4
10
lead by
Toby
| 120m | ★★ Very Good | |||
P1 Walk, P2 slick, P3 exposed and cool, P4 required some route finding, which is uncommon on grade 10.
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Mon 28th Jan 2013 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area | ||||||
5 |
★★★ Tiptoe Ridge
- with
Toby Phillips, Heather Browett
1
lead by
Cameron
2
lead by
Cameron
3
lead by
Toby
4
lead by
Toby
| 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Easy rambling, except for one tough move up onto the pinnacle. The abseil off isn't trivial either.
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Sun 27th Jan 2013 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bushranger Bluff Main Wall | ||||||
6 | ★ Revolver Crack - with Toby Phillips | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 27th Jan 2013 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle | ||||||
15 |
★ Viagra
- with
Toby Phillips
1
15
lead by
Me
2
15
lead by
Me
| 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Came back to get this out in daylight. First pitch has interesting moves, utilising both the chimney and the crack. Second pitch very thin to start, then it eases off.
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Fri 25th Jan 2013 - Morialta | ||||||
Far Crag | ||||||
17 17 R | ★★ Resurrection - with Darren Thompson | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Practised the crux several times on toprope before leading.
Enjoyable after the first bit of gear at 4-5m. |
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Thu 24th Jan 2013 - Morialta | ||||||
The Boulder Bridge | ||||||
16 | ★ Eryk - with Paddy Dennis | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Some nice thoughtful parts.
I used a cam in 'Plexas' after I grabbed a loose block at 2/3 height which spooked me a little. |
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Wed 23rd Jan 2013 - Morialta | ||||||
Far Crag | ||||||
18 | ★★ Illequipt - with Darren Thompson | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
After a few laps on toprope I was able to find quite a lot of gear on this actually. Not great down low but solid gear at the crux.
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Tue 22nd Jan 2013 - Morialta | ||||||
The Boulder Bridge | ||||||
19 | ★★ Muesli Direct Finish - with Mike Barnes | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I'm not usually into contrived climbs, but this was quite nice.
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22 | ★ Palm Oil - with Mike Barnes | 17m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Got this clean on my first try today which I was quite surprised about. Funky side pulling and moving your body across when the side pull changes direction.
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Tue 22nd Jan 2013 - Norton Summit | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
21 | ★★ Peregrine (Peregrine 1st pitch) - with Mike Barnes | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Good to finally tick this.
|
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Mon 21st Jan 2013 - Morialta | ||||||
The Boulder Bridge | ||||||
19 | Apricot Dusk - with Kate Morrissey | 17m | Don't Bother | |||
Quite nice first half, then grass and dirt.
|
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Sat 19th Jan 2013 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle | ||||||
15 |
★ Viagra (Viagra P1)
- with
Mieka Webb
1
15
lead by
Cameron
| 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pitch 1 felt stout at 15, but then we ran out of light (mostly due to P1 being harder than expected and taking me a long time) and so I chickened out of p2. Tried to lead out right and up to what I thought was the top in the dark. Arrived at large ledge, not the top, well and truly dark. Rapped of a sling. Will have to come back for pitch 2!
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Sat 19th Jan 2013 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Plaque | ||||||
17 | ★ Maximus - with Mieka Webb | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thought I was onsighting, but turns out I toproped it 2 years ago. Felt pretty solid on this, perhaps due to being tall. Gear is alright, despite looking thin from below.
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Sat 19th Jan 2013 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress | ||||||
16 | ★ Kamikaze - with Mieka Webb | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Maybe half a star. Found the crux quite tough, not sure if it's because I am tall? Mieka cruised it on 2nd.
Good small wires at crux. |
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Fri 18th Jan 2013 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
15 | ★★ Sundance - with Darren, Norman | 140m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd pitch was the best bit. Linked pitches 2+3. Pitch 4 wandered a bit, doubles were handy.
|
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Thu 17th Jan 2013 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area | ||||||
10 | ★★ Mesa - with Darren, Norman | 33m | ★ Good | |||
Cool route, linked as 1 pitch, not sure why you wouldn't.
|
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Tue 15th Jan 2013 - Morialta | ||||||
The Billiard Table | ||||||
18 | ★ Steppenwolf - with Daniel Heritage | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Started up through a bush which wasn't great.
|
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19 | ★★ Tilt - with Daniel Heritage | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Popping up to the 2nd good hold above the roof is a challenge. Enjoyed the top part.
|
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17 | ★ Only The Gnomes Know - with Daniel Heritage | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Tough moves getting over/left past flat wall down low.
|
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Wed 9th Jan 2013 - Morialta | ||||||
Far Crag | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Barad Dur - with Jamie | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Finally got this clean - huzzah! Finally got myself sorted out on the top crack. Did it three times in fact!
|
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21 | ★★ Klutz Connection - with Jamie | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Tough move just after moving onto the top grey wall gave us some trouble to begin with.
|
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Mon 7th Jan 2013 - Morialta | ||||||
Far Crag | ||||||
17 | ★ Road Show - with Katherine Wilde | 14m | Average | |||
Contrived climbs don't really get me excited.
|
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Sat 5th Jan 2013 - Waitpinga | ||||||
Mollusc Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Walk the Plank - with Starkey | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The Plank would be heady on lead.
|
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19 | ★★★ Technically Gifted - with Starkey | 26m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Tough moves.
|