Ascents climbed between 2004-04-01 and 2004-06-30 as various tick types by jono schmidt

had to back down a couple of times before i could desperately move through the lower crux. good jamming all the way. worth racking up for. i'll be back for the lead.

2/5/4 - just lovely!! looks like a tough slab climb but look out for the good crimps. a fairly commiting lead i think but neil had the balls for it. 6/6/4 - painful slow and nervous climbing which i blame on my indulgent activities the night before. each bolt plate took no less than three or four fumbles to place as i crimped to the rock with all my life. happy to have got this one outta the way.

should have been an onsight. more slow and desperate climbing in no style at all. didn't try tor ead any moves and climbed myself into many a dead end...pretty amazing thing to do when your only following a dyke.

onsighted 1st/3rd and 5th pitches and seconded the 2nd and 4th. super awesome adventure climbing. one stopper move at start of second pitch but otherwise climbing is below grade 20...definitely not 22. bit of everything...crimpy face, slabs, rooflets, laybacks, corner crack! couldn't believe another two parties of climbers qeued behind us. gets my strong recommendation.

17/5/4 - happy neil gave this 24...if the climb was a bit longer i'd give it classic for sure. desperate thin crimpy moves all the way to the top. i want this climb bad!! 15/5/4 - by crikey by jovi i managed the redpoint second shot...having said that i now believe this climb is only 23 the climb was just as good as i remembered it. def one star!

at least for the you yangs this climb is a classic. awesome corner crack starts on finger locks and good stemming then turns into a real crack climb. dogged it on two attempts but i don't care...just means i'll have to come back for the tick.

18/4/04 - i'll be dreaming about this climb for some time i think...bloody brilliant mate! sustained lama pumping on slopers and crimps. two bouldery cruxes. thanks to neils retrobolting this climb will be a pleasure to work. i want this climb as bad as i want by jovi and iron arms...bloody nemesises 15/5/04 - lead up to the rest before the final bouldery crux put just didn't have the power to pull through it...took me many attempts just to dog to the next bolt...a shameful spanking but i ain't giving up!!

interesting climbing with a no footer traverse ending in a mantle. bloody sandbag crux dyno below the traverse. if you have kent strength you can match your hand and foot and pull statically for the jug or else just throw wildly like i did. the bolt protection at crux provides peace of mind. scariest thing is rapping off the rotting tape fixed to a dodgy looking block.

13/12/3 - 22 in guide but would be 23 on account of the sandbag boulder start...however i copied someone elses moves and nailed the start. can't friggin believe i fell after that because it's not hard after that at all...steep juggy stuff. brilliant climb but just a little short. 18/4/4 - red point is mine! took four attempts of the start until i worked out the second move...just bad technique. was happy that i nailed the boulder start each and everytime but. loved this climb and i ain't changing it's very good rating! kent agrees with me don't you? everyone like's pussy!

7/4/4 - another grade 24 nemesis to add. much better climb than cosmic psycho i think. tough bouldery crux near top and the pump won't let go until the end. no stamina to make the crux moves but plenty of stamina with one dog. i'll be back...i've always wanted to tick a blond you know. 17/4/4 - nailed the slut first up and it didn't feel completely desperate, thus, she deserves to be downgraded to 23.

gets very good for the variety climbing....pockets, steepness, crimps, laybacks but unfortunately there are too many good rests halfway. this climb packs a punch at the finish with some desperate thin moves. need to hit the jugs past the poorly positioned dbb before you can make the clip.

an awesome ride with a crux finish. traverse not scary at all but you wouldn't want to fumble at the clips thats for sure. pissed off this wasn't my first 23 onsight. no strength to pull the crimps at the end so went for reach technique on second shot. the key is to squeeze her nipples!

don't know about the two stars it gets. long and steep face climb with crappy finish. soft for the grade i thought.

guess i should be wrapped i ticked my first 24 (3rd shot) but i've done tougher climbs than this. my height helped a lot for the throw near the start then it's all just steep climbing on jugs and pockets...my kinda thing. i'll take the grade 24 tick but i would take one grade off this climb and strip away two stars if i could.

more like 20/21. thin bouldery start was tough but most people came off at the dyno finish...a static move for those not vertically challenged!

think this was neils new sport/trad warm up b/w cut lunch and van dimens land. couple of med to large wires for the start then 3 bolts to dbb. bloody good and suprisingly pumpy climb...kinda climb that looks like there are holds everywhere but none are all that positive...full of knobs and slopers to keep you're hand open and forearms pumped. with the dbb at top i recommend this climb.

so sad again...i thought this was grade 23. took me four atempt to make this one tough move down low through to the layback flake. got it in style eventually. really good climb...bouldery down low to flakes then through lip to jugs. i've done easier 22's but i think it's fairly graded.

piece of shit climb! maybe would have got the crux throw if the key hold hadn't snapped off. used the side pull down low and a bit of a funky twist to throw for the hold up higher. hard for 21 but should still keep this grade. didn't feel so bad that my fellow climbers also floundered at the crux.

so sad...i thought it was a grade 22. absolutely sensational climbing all the way. nice and steep and pumpy...geting over the lip just adds to it all. climbs through all these massive scoopy hueco things. give this one a go for sure.

the climb was as good as it looked. definitely the ultimate begineer route at camels. this was also my gf second outdoor climb.

my first non-granite climb for more than a month and it showed. pretty techy crux...gave up when effort was required. i'll be back to jump on this slut again!