Ascents as various tick types as trad by jono schmidt

run out face climbing on lichen covered sandy rock. please sir can i have some more! seriously though it's not half bad.

i think everyone starts out right and not left given the exploding rock i encountered on the "easy scramble" to the first bolt. crux is definitely getting over the lip and my long legs didn't make it any easier. with pure grit i pulled through and encountered some magnificent climbing with rest jugs at the appropriate places. now i see why this pitch gets so many repeats. definitely not a hard 23 and easy to protect. what are you waiting for?

nice line and even nicer that i could avoid the crack! lead the first pitch only which is about grade 19. crux moves on the steep headwall of last pitch but it's certainly not as "committing" as the guide book claims it to be. watch out for rope jam on the rap descent or else you'll have to jug back up like i did! thanks rich!

corner cracks always require a bit of determination. this one went down fighting. most people keep walking past this climb but it's great to do as last climb of the day. watch out for the triangular rock serac!

ok i guess. a nice little wander up an arete with good gear and good jugs.

pretty damn good climb laybacking and jamming up a flake/crack. good gear most of the way then you have to fiddle in some suspect cams at the top of the crack and run it out on the slab to the bolt. i was pretty damn worried especially when i forgot the bolt plates however i could reach the top of the climb at the last bolt anyway!

if it was longer i'd give it a classic rating. magnificent line that begs to be climbed. the crack offers awesome protection but the holds are never quite positive which doesn't matter 'cause the feet are so good. start wasn't as tough as i thought it would be but is definitely the crux.

bloody tough first pitch through the grooves. it's the second pitch that gets all the rave...one of the best lines at buffalo. moderate slabbing up a rouded arete with no shortage of bolts. get on it or get lost!

bullshit hard moves near the start. the bastard made me bleed. also hard to protect at start and avoid the ground fall. definitely will put hairs on the balls of any grade 18 leader!

very nice line and very nice climbing. comes with jono's seal of approval.

didn't have to fight the bumblies for this one. nice and cruisy.

just another tick on anothe summer day valley classic.

a bumbly classic and highly recommended for the first time leader

my only success for the trip but a good one at that. this climb is possibly the best i've ever done in the gorge. ripper dipper right leading flake with good gear and positive holds. suggest you all pack your bags and get in the car and go and climb this piece of granite right now!

absolutely stupid crappy access description..."at mouth of cave behind devilled cream buttress"...well you can't bloody see this cave 'cause when you go behind the buttress you're actually standing on top of the cave! so after more than an hour and a short rap into the cave we got to the start of the climb. it was bloody insulting to then have to climb the no stars first pitch which comprised a super tight chimney followed by a super filthy trench. i did it on second with a heavy pack just to make sure i got no enjoyment out of it at all. thank the good lord the second pitch was as good as neil said it would be and that i got to lead it! awesome thin technical face climbing on a massive dyke. however there was very average gear at the crux. one final off width corner crack of misery and then we finished up banana blase. i was so thirsty at the end of this but not surprisingly we got to the chalet cafe just as it closed.

nice steep jug hauling on sandy rock for which it loses one star. neil and i both agree that is definitely only a grade 21 climb but downgrading it will adversely affect my statistics so i'm happy for it not to be officially downgraded.

thanks to my go go gadget arms this climb was not as great a challenge as it could have been. climb follows an obvious line which starts with a short corner then finishes up a slab. some thin moves and definitely run out in one spot but that just adds to the attraction. if tarzans swing gets two stars then this should definitely get at least one star.

had to back down a couple of times before i could desperately move through the lower crux. good jamming all the way. worth racking up for. i'll be back for the lead.

onsighted 1st/3rd and 5th pitches and seconded the 2nd and 4th. super awesome adventure climbing. one stopper move at start of second pitch but otherwise climbing is below grade 20...definitely not 22. bit of everything...crimpy face, slabs, rooflets, laybacks, corner crack! couldn't believe another two parties of climbers qeued behind us. gets my strong recommendation.

interesting climbing with a no footer traverse ending in a mantle. bloody sandbag crux dyno below the traverse. if you have kent strength you can match your hand and foot and pull statically for the jug or else just throw wildly like i did. the bolt protection at crux provides peace of mind. scariest thing is rapping off the rotting tape fixed to a dodgy looking block.

the climb was as good as it looked. definitely the ultimate begineer route at camels. this was also my gf second outdoor climb.

easy fun slabbing. if you can walk you can do this one.

nice line indeed but is plagued with sharp crystal pebbles. most awesome wire protection i've ever seen on a buffalo climb but take some cams for the diagnal...this bit required some cursing and no style to get through...then follow the vertical crack to the top...jam it, layback it, finger lock it, gusto it...whatever!

100m of jamming delights followed by another 100m of bush bashing and chimney scrambling. bring full body armour for this one. first pitch is definitely toughest...crack line starts at vertical then quickly eases to 45 degrees. direct line is best line and negotiates the bulge before the crack finishes up on some finger locks. rest of the climb is less memorable. although it took us five hours of climbing it's not that tough at all.

I CAN JAM and this is the proof so eat that you queenslanders with your bloody crappy frog buttress. if it wasn't for the first dirty and crumbling pitch this climb would get very good...still the first pitch is a fair line with interesting climbing through a corner and some overlaps. but the second pitch is the winner and worth the star...5 metres of pure jamming to victory. james is a frog fingering queenslander and he had to wrestle though it...too much queensland sun and sugar cane i think ai!!

although this was my first ever climb at buffalo several years ago i couldn't remember much about it so i give myself the flash. this is atypical granite climbing 'cause it has face holds all the way. absolutely sensational line and rock features. smearing across the dyke at the finish was just smashing!

this line follows a bit of a corner then finishes up with some slabbing on the arete. the climbing only really starts halfway up and then it's an interesting balancing act to move onto the arete followed by some more serious balancing to make one more move to some stances that are more reassuring. the rock quality makes this climb worth while i think.

i loved this climb. nice slab crack leads to a small ledge and then some easy slabbing. i felt like i ran up it.

really balancy crux that threw me off on many attempts. high stepping of a shit sloping crimp. climb doesn't give up just then either. probably more like 22.

nice climb and worth the effort. easy start then steep moves to easier finish...you'll probably be more scared of the descent which is a grade13 downclimb.

first static ascent of revenue road. reaching for the jug at the crux was still an effort. good line and fairly sustained climbing.

bouldery start and quite reachy moves through crux. sux that the climb moves left at start to some crap but otherwise the line is awesome and it's a worthy climb for those six foot tall.

another worthy climb. steep start then slowly eases off. it gave james a good spanking! i thank neil again for the abseil descent because after all thats the only reason i climb...for the descents ha ha ha!

this is almost a classic climb. absolutely fantastic all the way. not your typical buffalo climb as there is no real slabbing or jamming...the flake is a cruise! a must climb.

if trying to find banana blase you stuff up and rap straight off the ramp this is the easiest escape route. actually not a bad climb either. some desperate jamming for me but was most happy with my efforts.

grade 20 not 21. rip snorter line and wiz banging climb! one committing crux around last roof of crack/corner on first pitch. lead the second pitch traverse which should now therefore be upgraded from 14 to 32. really really nice and varied climbing all the way, jamming, fisting. fingering, slabbing, laybacking and i'm not just talking about my mates girlfriend.

not as super good as sultan but mighty fine all the same. was getting a bit desperate on flake start and went into the off width crack...not recommended. thought provoking moves around overhanging corners higher up. magic!

what a surprisingly great climb!! follows a delightful slabby groove then onto an arete. i recommend this be done as a first pitch to peroxide blonde!

wicked crack line that begins after you chimney up around an sentry box type thing. really kinda easy climb and fun climb with loads of gear. crux is two moves though a crack that i did a combination of laybacking and jamming...nice!! another fine rosea climb.

don't be second simul-climbing this one!! that experience took away from how good the climb really is. awesome line! pretty tough for 14 i thought and maybe even more like 16 in some spots. anyway plenty of gear and lots of ways you can climb through problems. definitely is a classic mt rosea climb.

,y first "mega-classic" rating!! from the ground the line doesn't look so awesome but believe me it is. diff rock types and style as the climb progresses but there are a few thin and delicate corners. gear at first belay is crap but don't do what i did and run it out to a semi-hanging belay stance halfway up next pitch frying in the sun. last pitch is apparently the hardest but i found it the easiest...more steep juggy flakes for me please! just awesome climbing all the way. ledge of last belay point is a fantastic picnic spot!! are there ny crap climbs at rosea? i don't think so.

lead climbed the first and third pitches...seconded the second crux pitch. all i can say is that neil has big balls for leading that second pitch...very dodgy and sparse gear so you have to tun it out on these long bum crack features on slabby wall. very balancy and yes it is quite technical! the second pitch is a sensational line and i'd recommend it to anyone.

what a unique feature! a concave groove in a slabby wall...stemming, slabbing, straining. not so tough just balancy. thanks to neils new carrots this climb is now well worth it!

the kind of line neil likes to put his name against...i'm ashamed to say i followed him up. it does get steep and kinda alright but the rock is dodgy and the start is a dirty vegetated crack. most fun i had was down climbing the steep grade 10 descent. i believe neil sacrificed a good sling to rap off and i'm sure he thought it was worth it!!

surpisingly nice climb on steep "honeycombed" face. worth repeating.

geez i stuggled with the layback a bit. i just get pumped holding fat ass on a flake/crack. anyway climb is a great but maybe only two stars but that's because i'm not into that style of corner crack stemming laybacking. good gear all the way and definitely not grade 21...more like 20.

another worthy climb. good line and good rock with solid pro. one bolt to protect crux which is a long reach through slight buldge...tough for 16 maybe.

sucessfully but strenuously avoided the crack...just. this climb is not worth repeating.

how i wish i was leading this one. looked so good from rap off judgement day and it was. protect with some small wires or small cams. two tricky moves...at start after jug and then onto shelf two moves after. not very steep climb...brilliant rock and features. worth it's grade.

certainly not a grade 20...more like an 18 with a few 19 moves. anyway fuckin brilliant climb. good balance and body tension required and some side pulls or gusto moves. crux probably getting into last right leaning diagnol. first pitch was lamplighter with interesting move onto shelf to first belay station. second belay station a waste and linked judgement day as one pitch...two pitons and a manky bolt were clipped for protection otherwise i only used three bits of good gear. lovely!