Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Rathen Große Gans Östlicher Turm der Jugend | ||||||
VIIc | Ecopoint ★ Talweg - with Danilo Hondo | 55m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Lower part often damp.
Somewhat sketchy to first small thread, then easier to first bolt. Crux after 3rd bolt.
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Rathen Große Gans Westlicher Turm der Jugend | ||||||
VIIb | Ecopoint ★ Ü 100 - with Danilo Hondo | ★ Good | ||||
Crispy, but well protected with a V-thread before clipping second bolt. The rest is easy.
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IV | Ecopoint Neuer Übergangsweg - with Danilo Hondo | Average | ||||
The stepover is mellow. Traversing left involves some botany, the remaining part is reasonably protectable.
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Rathen Große Gans Eule | ||||||
VIIb | Ecopoint Kleine Nordostwand - with Tilli | Average | ||||
No reasonable pro before first bolt, then better.
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VIIb ~VIIc | Ecopoint ★★ Spielplatz - with Tilli | 20m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Reachy to second bolt, crimpy past it. Sandy but easy topout.
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Thu 31st Aug 2023 - Nördliches Harzvorland | ||||||
Teufelsmauer Ballenstedter Teufelsmauer Großer Gegenstein North face | ||||||
VI | ★ Kalte Finger - with Seth | 9m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
The lid of the roof takes a small stopper.
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II | ★ Treppenkamin - with Seth | 9m | ★ Good | |||
...with all variants (left, right, inner, outer)
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Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Rathen Kleine Gans Gansturm | ||||||
IV | Westweg - with Danilo Hondo | Don't Bother | ||||
Short, sandy, hardly protectable.
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Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Rathen Kleine Gans Hinterer Gansfels | ||||||
VIIc Easy | Abendvorstellung - with Danilo Hondo | Don't Bother | ||||
Crispy at the start, vegetated at the top.
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Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Rathen Große Gans Höllenhund | ||||||
VIIc | ★ Erwähnung - with Tilli, Torsten | 1 | ★ Good | |||
Somewhat tricky start, especially for finding a good position for the belayer. Then easier but sustained, slightly sandy topout.
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Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Rathen Kleine Gans Gänseei | ||||||
III Hard | Alter Weg - with Danilo Hondo | Average | ||||
Surprisingly hard to find holds on the other side.
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Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Rathen Kleine Gans Plattenstein | ||||||
VIIa Hard | Zweiter Platz - with Danilo Hondo | 20m, 1 | Don't Bother | |||
quite dirty and short
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Fri 18th Aug 2023 - Liebethaler Grund | ||||||
Garten Westteil | ||||||
6 Hard | ★★ Schwarzer Streifen - with Danilo Hondo | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5- | ★ Wahnsinnig dreckige Verschneidung - with Danilo Hondo | 11m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
6+ Easy | ★★ Kante im Morgenlicht - with Danilo Hondo | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6 Hard | ★ Schiefes Leben - with Danilo Hondo | 10m, 5 | ||||
Thu 10th Aug 2023 - Chaîne de l'Estaque | ||||||
Châteauneuf-les-Martigues Vallon du saut La petite dalle | ||||||
4a | A l'aise blaise | 10m | ||||
Not quite sure if this is the right route...
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5c | Relax Max | 10m | ||||
Not quite sure if this is the right route...
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6a+ | Une poule sur un mur | 9m | ||||
Not quite sure if this is the right route...
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Fri 21st Jul 2023 - Steinicht | ||||||
Dornbusch-Gruppe Nymphenwand | ||||||
7+ | Ecopoint ★ Polarkreis - with Danilo Hondo | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
good jugs where you need them, stay left of scar
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Fri 21st Jul 2023 - Steinicht | ||||||
Dornbusch-Gruppe Dornbusch | ||||||
5+ Hard | Ecopoint ★★★ Triumphkante - with Danilo Hondo | 35m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
not too much pro
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Fri 21st Jul 2023 - Steinicht | ||||||
Kleppergrund Kleppergrundwächter | ||||||
7 | Ecopoint ★★ Lass die Seele baumeln - with Danilo Hondo | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
huge jugs, some brittle, start is crux
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5+ | Ecopoint Traum aus Stein - with Danilo Hondo | Average | ||||
Damp and vegetated
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7- | Ecopoint ★ Angst essen Seele auf - with Danilo Hondo | 22m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
demanding ropework, nice moves, some loose brittle
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Fri 21st Jul 2023 - Steinicht | ||||||
Ostufer Elsterwand | ||||||
6- | Ecopoint Saubermann - with Danilo Hondo | 30m | Average | |||
Nice moves over the overhangs, but the rest is a bit too vegetated.
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Fri 21st Jul 2023 - Steinicht | ||||||
Nelkenstein-Gruppe Nelkenstein | ||||||
6- Hard | Ecopoint ★★ Sprengung - with Danilo Hondo | 5 | Average | |||
unclear start
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5+ | Ecopoint ★★ Direkte Nelkensteinwand - with Danilo Hondo | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
long and continuous
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7 Easy | Ecopoint ★★ Weihnachtsmann - with Danilo Hondo | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
powerful move past first bolt, then plaisir
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7- Hard | Ecopoint ★★ Kraftprobe - with Danilo Hondo | 14m, 3 | Average | |||
Pre-clipped sketchy clip of first bolt from loose jug. Following flakes pasted on seem to hold.
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Thu 20th Jul 2023 - Steinicht | ||||||
Nelkenstein-Gruppe Nelkenstein | ||||||
6 | Ecopoint ★★ Geburtstagsgeschenk - with Danilo Hondo | 26m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
6 | Ecopoint ★★ Lineal - with Danilo Hondo | 24m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
less homogeneous
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6 | Ecopoint ★★★ Herrenspaziergang - with Danilo Hondo | 23m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
protect first clip with sling from tree
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7- | Ecopoint ★★ Kreuzweg - with Danilo Hondo | 23m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
great easier alternative start of Staubfinger
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Wed 19th Jul 2023 - Oberes Göltzschtal | ||||||
Wendelstein Wendelsteinplatte | ||||||
5+ | Ecopoint ★ Trau dich - with Danilo Hondo | 20m | ★ Good | |||
6- | Ecopoint ★★ Turboreibung - with Danilo Hondo | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not as monotonous as it looks, but interesting right to the top.
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5+ Hard | Ecopoint ★ ISS - with Danilo Hondo | 24m | ★ Good | |||
don't get lost
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Wed 19th Jul 2023 - Oberes Göltzschtal | ||||||
Wendelstein Wendelsteinturm | ||||||
7 Hard | Ecopoint Walhalla - with Danilo Hondo | 5m | ||||
use the big jug to the right. Powermoves.
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7+ | Ecopoint ★★ Scheiterhaufen - with Danilo Hondo | 7m | ★★ Very Good | |||
loose crux hold still ok
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6+ Hard | Ecopoint ★ Hexentanz - with Danilo Hondo | 7m | ★ Good | |||
crimpy
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Wed 19th Jul 2023 - Oberes Göltzschtal | ||||||
Lohberg | ||||||
7- | Ecopoint ★★ Steinbeißer - with Danilo Hondo | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7 Easy | Ecopoint Talfahrt - with Danilo Hondo | 10m | ||||
powerful at the start
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6- | Ecopoint ★ Himmelfahrt - with Danilo Hondo | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Wed 19th Jul 2023 - Holzbachtal | ||||||
Holzbachzacke | ||||||
6 | Ecopoint ★ Zackenbarsch - with Danilo Hondo | 6m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
crazy rock features
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6- | Ecopoint Winkelmann - with Danilo Hondo | 6m, 2 | Don't Bother | |||
don't bother, too much moss
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Tue 18th Jul 2023 - Holzbachtal | ||||||
Kuhstall | ||||||
6 | Ecopoint ★ Schwedentrunk - with Danilo Hondo | ★ Good | ||||
steep
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5- Hard | Ecopoint Gockelores - with Danilo Hondo | |||||
reachy
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7- | Ecopoint ★★ 1639 - with Danilo Hondo | 8m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
traversing low is the key
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4+ | ★ Pulverdampf - with Danilo Hondo | 6m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
5+ | Ecopoint ★ Folterknecht - with Danilo Hondo | 6m | ★ Good | |||
juggy
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5 | Ecopoint ★ Hinterhalt - with Danilo Hondo | 6m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Tue 18th Jul 2023 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Wilzschhaus Wegewart | ||||||
6+ | Ecopoint ★ Kleinod - with Danilo Hondo | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Tue 18th Jul 2023 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Wilzschhaus Straßenwärter | ||||||
6- Hard | Ecopoint ★★★ Schmale Wand - with Danilo Hondo | 18m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Solid rock, not too sharp. Consistent grade. Some Trad pro recommended.
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Mon 17th Jul 2023 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Wilzschhaus Eisenbahnbrückenpfeiler | ||||||
5 | Ecopoint ★ Nordwestpfeiler, AW - with Danilo Hondo | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Somewhat inconvenient for the last one to get down below the anchors.
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Mon 17th Jul 2023 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Eibenstock Tunnelnadel | ||||||
6+ | Croissant - with Danilo Hondo | 9m, 3 | ||||
6- | Stilles Wasser - with Danilo Hondo | 8m, 2 | Average | |||
Mon 17th Jul 2023 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Wilzschhaus Eisenbahnerbruch | ||||||
6+ | Ecopoint ★ Wer kennt die Regeln? - with Danilo Hondo | 7 | ★ Good | |||
Some loose stuff on the ledges, wear a helmet.
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Mon 17th Jul 2023 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Eibenstock Tunnelnadel | ||||||
7+ | Ecopoint ★ Schokoladenseite - with Danilo Hondo | ★ Good | ||||
Nice moves, not overprotected. Crux is getting to flake.
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7- ~7- | Ecopoint Schinderhannes - with Danilo Hondo | Don't Bother | ||||
Dirty, crumbly, sharp, vegetated, hard.
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Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Bockau Siebenschläfer | ||||||
6 Hard | Ecopoint ★★ Für Knab und Knecht - with Danilo Hondo | 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6+ | Ecopoint ★ Super Nova - with Danilo Hondo | 6 | ★ Good | |||
6+ | Ecopoint ★ M&M - with Danilo hondo | 4 | ★ Good | |||
5 | Ecopoint ★ Schlampe - with Danilo hondo | 3 | ★ Good | |||
Somewhat dusty, but mostly solid. Almost goes clean.
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7 | Ecopoint ★ Skyline - with Danilo Hondo | 6 | ★ Good | |||
The further right you go, the harder it gets.
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Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Bockau Bockauer Wurzelspitze | ||||||
2 | Ecopoint Alter Weg - with Danilo Hondo | Average | ||||
Crumbly with lots of sharp crystals.
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Mon 29th May 2023 - Weser-Leine-Bergland | ||||||
Ith Lüerdisser Klippen Mauerhakenturmmassiv | ||||||
6 ~6- | ★★ Gelber Pfeiler | 10m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Much easier than it looks.
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6 | ★★ Gelbe Kante direkt | 12m, 2 | ||||
i guess the right edge is off-limits?
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4 Easy | ★ Bohrteufel | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
great beginner's lead.
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5 Hard | ★★ Reha-Kante | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
uncomfy clip at second bolt.
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5 Hard | ★ Bresche | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Don't use the precarious fossil near bolt 2 for protection!
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Sun 28th May 2023 - Weser-Leine-Bergland | ||||||
Ith Scharfoldendorfer Klippen Kelchstein | ||||||
2 Hard | Gipfeltürmchen - with Lina | Average | ||||
Single-move boulder. Not worth the risk tipping the entire structure into the void.
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4 | ★★ Westkante - with Lina | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice moves, well protectable, cool rock structure. Sadly, a bit short.
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Sun 28th May 2023 - Weser-Leine-Bergland | ||||||
Ith Scharfoldendorfer Klippen Kinaststein | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Direkte Westwand | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
A bit loose below the overhang, but nice moves.
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4+ | ★ Südwestkante | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Friendly route taking lots of pro.
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5- | ★ NN 4 | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Well protected.
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5+ | ★ NN3 Variante | 3 | ★ Good | |||
Direct start probably a bit harder.
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Sat 27th May 2023 - Weser-Leine-Bergland | ||||||
Ith Lüerdisser Klippen Haderturm | ||||||
3 | ★ Südostriss - with Lina | ★ Good | ||||
6- ~6 | ★ Rechter Südwestriss | ★ Good | ||||
Assuming this is the same as "Rechter Talriss"
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6- Easy | ★★ Direkte Westkante - with Lina | 25m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
concentrated crux past bulge, the rest pure pleasure
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4 Hard | ★★★ Nordwestverschneidung - with Lina | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 14th May 2023 - Bunker "Koralle" | ||||||
Östliche Tunnelwand | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Unten ohne | 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
delicate one-move problem
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7- | ★★★ Café International | 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Feels natural.
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5 | ★★ ?3 (Krise?) | 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Starts with small holds, then holds get juggy but reachy.
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Sun 14th May 2023 - Bunker "Koralle" | ||||||
Pik Lobetal | ||||||
6 Hard | ★★ Zauberberg | 8m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky start
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6 Easy | ★★ Blungo 2 | 9m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Easier if you use the edge.
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6- | ★ Blungo 1 | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Dippoldiswalder Heide | ||||||
Felsgruppe am Einsiedlerstein Höhlenblock | ||||||
3A | ★ Alter Boulder | |||||
4A | Solo for one | |||||
2B | ★ Cracky | |||||
2B | Ausstiegsproblem | |||||
Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Dippoldiswalder Heide | ||||||
Felsgruppe am Einsiedlerstein Schöner Block | ||||||
2A | ★★★ Rißspur | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Dippoldiswalder Heide | ||||||
Felsgruppe am Einsiedlerstein Einsiedlerstein Routen | ||||||
II | ★ Künstlicher Weg - with Lina, Lewin | ★ Good | ||||
I Hard | ★ Alter Weg - with Lina, Lewin | 1 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 31st Oct 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Bielatal Nymphenbad Schildbürger | ||||||
VIIa Hard | ★ Zeppelin - with Danilo Hondo | ★ Good | ||||
reachy, two-move-problem
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Mon 31st Oct 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Bielatal Nymphenbad Blatt | ||||||
VIIc | ★ Prüfungszeit - with Danilo Hondo | |||||
Nice, but very defined. Bailing out to the right makes it easier.
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Mon 31st Oct 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Bielatal Nymphenbad Falkenwand | ||||||
VIIa | ★★ Juniweg - with Danilo Hondo | 30m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 30th Oct 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Bielatal Dürrebielegrund Ringelspitze | ||||||
VIIb Hard | ★★ Eigentliche Westkante - with Danilo Hondo | 25m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
crux at R, take thin sling to protect exit
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Sun 30th Oct 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Bielatal Nymphenbad Zwei Horzel | ||||||
VIIb | ★★ !Neuer Talweg - with Danilo Hondo | 30m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
somewhat sketchy to first bolt
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Sat 29th Oct 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Bielatal Nymphenbad Pfifferling | ||||||
VIIa | ★★ Südverschneidung - with Danilo Hondo | ★★★ Classic | ||||
versatile moves with stemming, jamming and laybacking. Well protectable.
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Sat 29th Oct 2022 - Sächsische Schweiz | ||||||
Bielatal Nymphenbad Glatter Kegel | ||||||
VIIa | ★★ Nordwestriss - with Danilo Hondo | 15m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
well protectable tricky starting moves, then awesome jamming
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VIIIa | ★★ Wilde Orchidee - with Danilo Hondo | 30m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
somewhat sketchy moves on mediocre pro first bolt
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