Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Wed 16th Aug 2023 - Alpstein | ||||||
Gartenalp | ||||||
7a | ★★ Tango - with Jascha | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
One of the best or even the best pitch i have done at Gartenalp thus far. So much fun! Was super close on onsight, but missread the crux.
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7a ~6c+ |
★★ Tirami su P1
- with
Jascha
1
7a
| 15m | ★ Good | |||
Okay climb, removed a block from the undercling traverse...
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6c |
★★ Himmelstreppe
- with
Jascha
1
6c
20
2
6c
18
Brilliant pitch, really enjoyed this one. | 38m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Classic climb, so much fun.
Did as Philip suggested and come down from the 2nd anchor.
Climbed the first pitch so "draw optimised" that I ended up clipping the second anchor with 12draws left on my harness 🥴🥴
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7a+ ~7a+ |
★ Orbit
- with
Jascha
1
7a+
17m
Difficult crux section and last few moves towards the anchor.
2
6c
12m
| 29m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Lütschinentäler | ||||||
Wilderswil Sektor A | ||||||
7b/b+ | ★★ Huebere 2. SL - with Mari | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Even at 30+ degree this is at max a very soft 7b. Good fun though all the way.
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5c | ★★ Huebere - with Mari | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another very nice easy pitch. Must have been a lot of work to clean this route, well worth it.
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7a |
★★★ Highflyer
- with
Mari
1
5a
Classic for the grade. A nice 5a bolted for a 5a climber.
2
7a
| 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Lütschinentäler | ||||||
Wilderswil Sektor B | ||||||
6b | ★★ Nymphe - with Mari | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7b+ | ★★ Salü Jopin - with Mari | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super close to sending this on the first try...no time for a second try.
Climbs a bit better than Milchstraße although not as consistent. Would Def try again if I come back here. |
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7c | ★★ Milchstrasse - with Mari | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Can see that this was a classic once, about 10k attempts ago....cool moves but just too polished. would not try again.
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Fri 4th Aug 2023 - Nordgalerie | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Duha - with Mari | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Messed up the onsight at the last hard bit, but was a really cool fight. Classic Route.
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Mon 24th Jul 2023 - Kalkofen | ||||||
6a+ Hard | ★★ Calimero - with Mari, Mr C | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Probably a bit nicer and easier, if the wall is not that wet...
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7b+ ~7b | ★★★ Querulant - with Mari, Mr C | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun route on good rock, suited me well. a few bouldery sections with good rests in between.
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6c+ ~7a | Davidoff - with Mari, Mr C | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Quite an adventure; Insecure, hard and run-out.
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Mon 24th Jul 2023 - Alpstein | ||||||
Gartenalp | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Ausreisser - with Mari | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7a | ★ Seitenblick - with Mari | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Hmm very cruxy and contrived. The best are actually the last 3m to the anchor.
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6a+ |
★ Fresco P1
- with
Mari
1
6a+
| 30m | ★ Good | |||
6a ~6a+ | ★★ Bölli - with Mari | 20m | ★ Good | |||
7a+ ~7a+ | ★ Orbit - with Mari | 29m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Slipped 20cm before the anchor . Good onsight fight and nice route
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Thu 20th Jul 2023 - Vättis | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
7b+ | ★★ Too hot to hoot - with Sara_S | 25m | ★ Good | |||
A mini-moonboard problem at 10° overhang =)
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Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Trollfels | ||||||
7b+ ~7b | ★ Bella Donna - with Beatrice | 22m | ★ Good | |||
A bit contrived a bit green and a bit scary (some of the holds, you know your finger will stay there if your foot comes off.....). Otherwise some fun moves
|
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Fri 14th Jul 2023 - Chropfberg | ||||||
Unten | ||||||
7b | ★★ Orakel - with Henri | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun climb! A bit contrived at the start but other than this really nice.
|
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6c | ★ Blindhammer - with Henri | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Quite insecure to the second bolt.
|
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7c+ | ★ Caramba - with Henri | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Haha, i still cant do the start, which is a shame as the rest is quite nice.
Best thing i could come up with is some sort of campussing on crimps....but feels like I just havent found the proper beta. |
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Sun 9th Jul 2023 - Vättis | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
6c | FA ★★ Rotator - with Mr C | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice technical traverse. The 1FP-undercling match is rad.
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Sun 9th Jul 2023 - Alpstein | ||||||
Gartenalp | ||||||
7b | ★ Difficult Game - with Henri | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Fun climbing to a very distinct crux with a big deadpoint.
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7a+ ~7a | ★★★ Chemin de la mer - with Henri | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very fun route.
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6a+ | ★★ Lapin bleu - with Henri | 25m | ★ Good | |||
6b | ★ Lapin vert - with Henri | 25m | ★ Good | |||
7a+ | ★★ Chemin du ciel - with Henri | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun and varied climbing....the gluing job could have been a bit more discrete...
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6c | ★★ Mauvaise réputation - with Henri | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 5th Jul 2023 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Moriskenburg | ||||||
5c+ | ★ Gawain - with Mr C | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Moriskenburg Bingo
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6a | ★★ La Primera - with Mr C | 20m | ★ Good | |||
8a ~7c+ | ★★★ Parzival - with Mr C | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
A bit contrived. But once you accepted to go straight over the bolts and dont use the good stuff on the left its actually the better line! Still more 7c+ I think
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Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Moriskenburg | ||||||
7c | ★★ Parzival Links - with Mr C | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Vättis | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
7c+ | ★ Alles oder Nichts | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Fun climbing to a short distinct crux on crimps.
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Thu 29th Jun 2023 - Chropfberg | ||||||
Schwarze Rose | ||||||
7b+ | ★★ Listino prezzi - with Jascha | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Crux between first and second draw and then good fun to the anchor.
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6a+ | ★ Ace of Spades - with Jascha | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 24th Jun 2023 - Vättis | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
6b+ | FA ★★ Never odd or eveN - with Jascha, Giliian, Mr C | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Around 6b i guess...
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7c+ | FA ★★ Tacocat direct start - with Jascha | 38m | ★ Good | |||
Makes it harder, but I like the OG Tacocat better!
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7c | FA ★★ Tacocat - with Jascha | 38m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Slopers in Vättis!
My absolute favorite of the new lines at Vättis.
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7b+ | FA ★★ Evil Olive - with Jascha, Giliian | 38m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Olives should really only be consumed in combination with a Martini.
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7b+ | FA ★★ The Gäsi principle - with Giliian | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Isn’t Gäsi just the best place to climb?!
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7a Easy | FA ★★★ It never stops - with Giliian, Michele De Marchi | 40m, 21 | ★★★ Classic | |||
The name says it all. Also good as a warm-up as it has a lot of rests.
Quite the adventure going up there for the first time....
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Fri 23rd Jun 2023 - Chropfberg | ||||||
Unten | ||||||
7a | ★★ Pump action - with Jascha | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Have to get used to these bolt distances again...
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6c | ★★ Graag - with Jascha | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun Route, though the finish was a bit spicey....run-out and wet...
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Sun 28th May 2023 - Gäsi | ||||||
Links | ||||||
7a | ★★ Erebos - with Sara_S | 35m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I guess i was the first one climbing it this year; now the upper section is nice and clean again ;-).
Good addition to the crag. |
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7c | ★★ El Xipiron - with Mr C | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The crossover / fall into the right hand sidepull is such an outrageous and unlikely move...Super cool when it comes together.
Not physically hard, but good body tension is key. |
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8a | ★★ Explosiv - with Mr C | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I think this is where my Gäsi-Bingo meets its maker...
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Sun 28th May 2023 - Gäsi | ||||||
Mitte | ||||||
6b+ ~6c | ★★ Slot Machine - with Mr C | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
New long line left of Prince Eisenherz.
Gets better the higher you go; with a tricky move out of the dihedral and onto the prow.
For me more 6c, but easier than the sandbagged 6cs to the left of it ;-) |
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Sun 28th May 2023 - Gäsi | ||||||
Rechts | ||||||
8a+ | FA ★★★ Senseless - with Henri, Manu, Mari, Mark | 45m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I can stop bashing my head against the wall now
Sensorium in itself is already a classic, and this extension makes it even better. Hard to get established to the first bolt, then some fun resistance climbing to the crux...Its all about arriving with enough energy at those slimpers... In order to send this I had to have Sensorium so dialed, that I could do it as a warm-up; and ended up sending Sensorium 3 times in one day |
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Wed 24th May 2023 - Plattenwald | ||||||
Plattenkreuz | ||||||
7b | ★ Street Parade - with Mari | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Wed 24th May 2023 - Schellenberg | ||||||
Null Bock | ||||||
8 |
★★ Em Franz sini P1
- with
Henri
1
8
| 20m | ★ Good | |||
P1 only.
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8 | ★★ Schock - with Henri | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Took me a few tries to find a nice handjam beta which lets me do the starting move static...who needs jumping around....
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8 |
★★ Fledermaus
- with
Henri
1
8-
2
8
| 16m | ★ Good | |||
You basically need two shots for every climb here...one to clean the holds and the second one to actually climb it.
Some fun through the roof, for me not harder than P1 (which felt hard for the grade). |
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Sun 14th May 2023 - Amberg | ||||||
Ambergwand | ||||||
8+ |
★ Abschlussdiplom
- with
Gerit
1
7-
2
8+
| 35m | ||||
Felt hard today in very humid conditions.
Especially the first pitch is hard for the grade!
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Sat 6th May 2023 - Deponie | ||||||
Hauptsektor | ||||||
7c | ★★★ Noche de accion - with Chris | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Not a bad route, but just not my cup of tea.
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7b | ★ Mescalero - with Chris | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Weird starting boulder
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6c | ★ ? - with Chris | 10m | ★ Good | |||
one of the better of the short ones.
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7b | ★★ Saltamonte - with Chris | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice route! Longest at the crag.
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Sat 22nd Apr 2023 - Vättis | ||||||
Hauptwand | ||||||
8a+ | ★★ Maweo - with Gillian | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wow, this righthand crimp after the little roof is so bad, not sure if there is a better sequence to skip it?!
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7a | ★★ Vadura (Extension) | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Arginonta Arhi Balcony Helvetia | ||||||
6c | ★★★ The End of Mythos - with Mari | 20m | ★ Good | |||
7b | ★★★ M40 - with Mari | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
So much fun. One of the best 7b I reckon.
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7a | ★★ Perfect Stranger - with Mari | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Top half is excellent, first half so lala.
Crux is hard.
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7c | ★★★ Welcome to the Pleasure Dome - with Mari | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Way better than the song.
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Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Afternoon | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Ermis Connecting Us - with Mari | 28m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hard to read
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Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Spartacus | ||||||
6c | ★★ Nabuchodonsor - with Mari | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Weird bolting
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7b | ★★★ Gladiator - with Mari | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cleaning up an old dog
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7b+ | ★★★ Spartacus - with Mari | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just one onsight try. Good fun.
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Sat 15th Apr 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Spartan Wall | ||||||
7a+ ~7b | ★★★ Leonidas - with Mari | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Compared to some others this feels more like 7b
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Fri 14th Apr 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Arginonta Noúfaro Almodóvar | ||||||
8a | ★★★ Myself Not a Fish - with Mari, Goshen Watts | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The second most intelligent creatures on earth — just after mice
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Thu 13th Apr 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Arginonta Noúfaro Almodóvar | ||||||
7a | ★★ Douleur et Gloire - with Mari | 30m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice and technical with 'de-graded'pockets ;-)
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Thu 13th Apr 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Odyssey | ||||||
7c | ★★ Paris, Texas - with Mari | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Checked it out the other day and sent today as a warm up while putting up the draws ....sooo, probably soft but also totally my style.
Super cool route which has it all! |
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Tue 11th Apr 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Zeus & White Shark | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ Kalamity Jane - with Mari | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good warm up. Climbs a lot nicer than it looks.
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7c+ | ★★★ Wild Sport - with Mari | 32m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tried it the other day and sent today while putting the draws an. Might be soft, but it also is my kinda jam.
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Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Zeus & White Shark | ||||||
7b | Zenaida - with Mari | 26m | Average | |||
Still a bit sharp and brittle, however I don't think I climbed it as 'intended' as the top is quite contrived.
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Poets | ||||||
7a | ★★ Omero - with Jascha, Mari, Mr C | 22m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b+ | ★★ O'Brothers - with Jascha, Mari, Mr C | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tricky but very nice
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7a | ★★ Rolling Stone - with Jascha, Mari, Mr C | 18m | ★ Good | |||
A few fun moves but over too quickly
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7b+ | ★★ Harry Hole - with Jascha, Mari, Mr C | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
If the crux would be at the start it prop would be 7a+....the rope drag/ weight makes it hard.
You don't get the grade if you climb this in two pitches! |
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6b | ★★ Harry Hole (Part 1) - with Jascha, Mari, Mr C | 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6c+ | ★★★ Bon Voyage - with Jascha, Mari, Mr C | 55m | ★★★ Classic | |||
The extension is just fun climbing all the way!
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6b+ | ★ Bon Voyage (Part 1) - with Jascha, Mari, Mr C | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 7th Apr 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Arginonta Noúfaro Almodóvar | ||||||
7c | ★★★ Schild - with Tibi | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Once again, the Schild was mightier than the Schwert =)
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6c+ | ★★ Attache Moi - with Tibi | 28m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
Thu 6th Apr 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Odyssey | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Tiresias - with Jascha, Mr c | 15m | ★ Good | |||
6a+ | ★★ Oldie Argos - with Jascha, Mr c | 18m | ★ Good | |||
7b | ★★★ Daphne - with Jascha, Mr c | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
7b | ★★★ Patroclos Reborn - with Jascha, Mr c | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 5th Apr 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Armeos Iannis | ||||||
7a | ★★ Sens Unique - with Jascha, Mr C | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fell at the easier first section, slipping off one of the many polished footholds.
This was a classic once...
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7b+ | ★★ Themelina - with Jascha, Mr C | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Seeping in parts and very polished.
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7b | ★★ Sevasti - with Jascha, Mr C | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Almost came off as I read the crux wrong and had to reverse for a bit.
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7a+ | ★★ Petranta - with Jascha, Mr C | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Jascha came down from the second draw but can honestly say that I did not get any useful beta from him...thus probably still onsight ;-)
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7a+ | ★★★ Éclat de Soleil - with Jascha, Mr C | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Went up with the two monos, which seemed okay for the grade. Probably a lot easier than 7a+ if you can skip those.
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7a | ★★ Le Règne de Saturne - with Jascha, Mr C | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 3rd Apr 2023 - Kalymnos | ||||||
Skalia Ghost Kitchen | ||||||
7b | ★★ Elia - with Mari, Tibi | 30m, 8 | Average | |||
Not so nice
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7a ~7a+ | ★★★ Tahar ta Gueule - with Mari, Tibi | 38m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
7a | ★★★ Globus - with Mari, Tibi | 35m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6c | ★★★ Resista - with Mari, Tibi | 35m | ★★★ Classic |