Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Apron North Apron | ||||||
5.9 |
★★ Calculus Crack Direct (Calculus Crack Direct Linkup Random pitch to South Arete)
- with
Spencer Sloane
3
5.8
linkup Random pitch to South Arete
4
5.8
linkup South Arete
5
5.9
linkup South Arete
6
5.4
linkup South Arete
7
5.7
8
5.8
| 80m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Crazy busy day, planned to do 'Long Time No See' but ended up on Calculus Direct to avoid a large crowd but still hit traffic at the top belay of the second pitch of calculus. Then headed up 'South Arete' (again to avoid the crowds). Then made our way up the last 2 pitches of 'Long Time No See' before heading back down.
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Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Apron Central Apron | ||||||
5.9 |
★★★ Snake
- with
Spencer Sloane
| 220m | ||||
Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Pensioners' Wall | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Hevy's Corner | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10a | ★ CPP | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Tried to avoid the crack at the top but feels much harder than 5.10a sticking strictly to the face. Ended up using the crack as an arête and a foot hold.
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5.9 | ★ OAP | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
5.10c | ★★ Hole in the Eye | 10m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fell on the first attempt of the crux at the top. Got it second try.
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5.10a | ★★ A Trace of Blood | 8m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | ★ Brian's Route | 8m, 5 | Average | |||
A lot harder than it looks, but a good thoughtful climb
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Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Twin Ribs Down Under | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Your Wife - with Ryan Parker | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
5.10c | ★★★ Sausages - with Ryan Parker | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10d/11a ~5.11a | ★★ Price of Business - with Ryan Parker | 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Quercus | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ A Prince Amongst Thieves | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Managed to do all the moves, with lots of rests and a few falls in between.
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5.10d | ★ Glass Slipper | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Lakeside-in-the-Woods & Commonwealth | ||||||
5.8 | Tiffany Cuff Links | 33m, 1 | Average | |||
5.8 | ★ Under the Eye of Newton | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
5.9 | ★★★ The Reacharound | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 | ★★ In the Doghouse | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
If you don't use the opposite wall this would be significantly harder.
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Fri 14th Jul 2023 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Apron North Apron | ||||||
5.9 |
★★★ Long Time No See
- with
d-lit
1
5.9
10m
2
5.9
35m
3
5.7
35m
4
5.7
40m
5
5.4
25m
6
5.7
35m
7
5.8
45m
8
5.7
20m
9
5.8
20m
| 270m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 9th Jul 2023 - Squamish | ||||||
Shannon Falls Shannon Falls Wall | ||||||
5.8 |
★★★ Skywalker
- with
d-lit, Spencer Sloane
1
5.7
30m
2
5.8
25m
3
5.7
30m
4
5.6
20m
5
5.4
30m
| 140m, 6 | ||||
Sat 1st Jul 2023 - Marble Canyon | ||||||
Mid Wall | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ The Goat | 600m | ★★ Very Good | |||
We swapped leads simul climbing, linking 3 to 5 pitches at a time.
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Thu 15th Jun 2023 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Lakeside-in-the-Woods & Commonwealth | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Partners in Grime - with Spencer Sloane | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Good, more thoughtful than I expected.
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5.8 | ★ The Total StinkEye - with Spencer Sloane | 23m | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Thumbelina - with Spencer Sloane | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Blind Channel Crags Free and Easy | ||||||
5.11a | ★ SpotDaFly | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Slab is hard.
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5.10b | ★ Pocket Change | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
5.10b | ★★ Free and Easy — 2 attempts | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Took 2 attempts to figure out the right beta to pull over the roof.
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5.10b | ★★ Shimmering Crack | 18m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun climb, looks more intimidating than it is once you figure out the beta.
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Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Blind Channel Crags Burning Man Corner | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Salmonella | 2 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 11th Jun 2023 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Blind Channel Crags The Boys of Porteau | ||||||
5.8 ~5.9 | ★★ Overbolted | 6 | ★ Good | |||
I found the crux at the bottom to be pretty hard, but smooth sailing after that.
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Sat 20th May 2023 - Squamish | ||||||
The Chief The Apron South Apron | ||||||
5.8 |
★★★ Diedre
- with
Spencer Sloane, an
| 220m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great quality climbing, the last few moves are a bit spooky and hard to protect, not recommended to lead for someone new to the grade.
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Fri 19th May 2023 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area Electric Avenue Mt. Chek | ||||||
5.8 |
★★ Frontside 180
- with
Bea
1
lead by
Andy Gnarr
2
lead by
Andy Gnarr
3
lead by
Andy Gnarr
4
lead by
Bea
5
lead by
Bea
6
lead by
Bea
7
lead by
Andy Gnarr
8
lead by
Andy Gnarr
9
lead by
Andy Gnarr
10
lead by
Andy Gnarr
| 220m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Linked pitches 1, 2, and 3. Bea Linked pitches 4, 5, and 6. Simul-climbed the rest.
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Wed 17th May 2023 - Sully's Hangout | ||||||
Sully's Bear Asian Buffet | ||||||
5.10b | ★ It's Wong to Yum Yum Chum Chum !!! | |||||
5.8 | Asian Princess Hates Dinos on Crack | |||||
5.7 | ★ Asian Princess Dropped Poor Stitch | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 17th May 2023 - Sully's Hangout | ||||||
5.7 | ★ Beginner's Luck | 13m, 6 | Average | |||
Sat 29th Apr 2023 - Sully's Hangout | ||||||
Sully's Bear Asian Buffet | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Asian Princess Got Devoured by Squeeterz | ★ Good | ||||
Good potential but the main flake was very wet at the time.
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5.10a | ★ So Wong, So Strong | ★ Good | ||||
5.10c | ★ Marcus The Gopher Slayer | ★ Good | ||||
5.9 | Asian Princess KAPOWs the Sully's Bear | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 | ★ Ellie c'est une fille oui? | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.7 | ★ Sinfully Doylelicious Asians | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 19th Nov 2022 - Squamish | ||||||
Area 44 The Pillary The Boondocks | ||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Colin de bin | 23m, 9 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Le Trash Blanc | 19m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 19th Nov 2022 - Squamish | ||||||
Area 44 The Pillary Frolich | ||||||
5.9 Easy | ★★ Macht Nichts - with Bea | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 19th Oct 2022 - Squamish | ||||||
Shannon Falls Shannon Falls Wall | ||||||
5.8 |
★★★ The Spirit of Squamish
- with
FreddyAllport
| 190m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Linked pitches 2,3 and 4 into one long pitch. Pitch 6 is still my favorite. Great climb!
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Sun 4th Sep 2022 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area Foundation Wall | ||||||
5.10b 5.10a | ★ Real TV | 15m | ★ Good | |||
5.8 5.9 | ★ In Your Face | 10m | Average | |||
5.10a 5.9 | (name unknown 1) | 9m | Average | |||
not sure if this is just really polished, sandbagged, or if I was just missing something, but it felt a lot harder than 5.9.
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5.8 | ★ Awake in a Ditch with a Horse Licking Your Face | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
5.10d | ★ Polychronopolous | 12m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Cool sidepulls on the lower section, tricky but fun crux above.
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Sun 4th Sep 2022 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
The Gorge Galaxy Buttress | ||||||
5.8 |
★★★ Star Chek (Star Chek Linkup Beam Me Up, Scotty)
- with
Spencer Sloane, Reese
4
5.6
25
linkup Beam Me Up, Scotty
5
5.8
20
linkup Beam Me Up, Scotty
| 85m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Climbed with Spencer and Reese. Climbed in 4 pitches mostly just because the party above us did the same. I climbed the last two pitches of 'Beam Me Up, Scotty' on top rope to do something new on the top half.
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Thu 25th Aug 2022 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Crag X Supervalue | ||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Supervalue | 35m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thu 25th Aug 2022 - Squamish | ||||||
Smoke Bluffs Blind Channel Crags Burning Man Corner | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Swampton | |||||
5.10b | ★★ Right Corner, Name Unknown | 6m | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Upper Ledge, Right Crack | |||||
5.8 | ★ Upper Ledge, Left Crack | |||||
Did this as a variation to the upper section of 'Swampton'
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Sat 6th Aug 2022 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park Genesis | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Cain and Able - with Spencer Sloane | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun section through the flake.
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Sat 6th Aug 2022 - Squamish | ||||||
Murrin Park The Comune | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ What Crag? - with Spencer Sloane | 9m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★ A Little Help from your Friends - with Spencer Sloane | 16m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5.10d | ★ Teach Your Children - with Spencer Sloane | 28m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Tricky slabby crux.
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Mon 1st Aug 2022 - West Kootenays | ||||||
Nelson Gotham City | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Bruce Wayne | ★ Good | ||||
5.10a | ★★ The Joker | |||||
5.10c | Batman | |||||
5.10d | The Dark Knight | |||||
2nd last climb of the day and experimented with a few different ways of doing the top section... they didn't work very well.
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5.10d | ★★ Catwoman | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10b | The Riddler | |||||
Did this one at the end of the day and was too tired to get it in one go.
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Sat 30th Jul 2022 - Cheakamus Canyon | ||||||
Cheakamus Canyon Climbing Area Conroy's Castle | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Kingfishers Catch Fire | 20m, 9 | ||||
5.9 | ★ Small is Beautiful | 20m | ||||
5.8 | ★ Asian Princess Wants Dead Bird | 23m, 10 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ The Great Yellow Hope | 20m, 10 | ||||
5.8 | Brown and Veiny | 6m, 11 | ||||
5.10a | ★★ I Love You 3000 | 24m, 7 | ||||
Wed 29th Jun 2022 - Massif du Mont Blanc | ||||||
Les Aiguilles de Chamonix Aiguille du Midi South Face / Face Sud | ||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Voie Rébuffat/ Baquet | 200m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 26th Jun 2022 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Cuvier Bas Cuvier Circuit 7 Bleu TD- | ||||||
4C | ★★ La Solitaire | |||||
5A | La Continentale | |||||
4C | Le K | |||||
Sun 26th Jun 2022 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Cuvier Bas Cuvier Off circuit boulders | ||||||
5A | ★ Le Petit Surplomb (assis) | 3m | ||||
2B | ★★ L'Éperon de la Sans les mains | |||||
3B | ★★ La Fissure de la Sans les Mains | |||||
Sun 26th Jun 2022 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Cuvier Bas Cuvier Circuit 3 Orange AD+ | ||||||
3B | ★★ La Voie de l'Arbre (orange 7) (La Voie de l'Arbre) | |||||
2B | La Fissure Est de la Gamelle | |||||
2B | ★★★ La Dalle du Tondu | |||||
2C | La Traversée du Bock | |||||
Did a bit of a chimney using the adjacent boulder to start.
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3C | ★ L'Envers du J | |||||
2C | Le Petit Angle | |||||
Overgrown, not climbed often.
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3B | L'Oreille Cassée | |||||
2C | ★ Le Muret | ★ Good | ||||
Clearly not climbed often, also not as polished. Good slab. The position of this problem is slightly out of place in the Jingo Wobbly Fun Bloc guidebook.
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2B | La Dalle de l'Élan | |||||
Did this twice, se one time with no hands. Good slab!
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4A | Le Tire Bras | |||||
3A | ★★ Le Mur aux Fênes | |||||
2C | La Petite Côtelette | |||||
2B | Le Trois | |||||
2B | La Fissure Sud du Coq | |||||
3B | ★ Le Petit Surplomb | |||||
2B | La Traversée de la Crête du Coq | |||||
Did half of 'Le Coq Gauche' to start.
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3A | La Rigole Ouest de la Solitude | |||||
2C | La Proue | |||||
3A | La Tenaille | |||||
2C | ★ La Deux Temps | |||||
2B | La Dalle du Pape | 3m | ||||
This doesn't match the photo of the problem in the Jingo Wobbly guidebook, but I did the problem that matches the position on the map. Did two variations on the left and right side.
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