Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Donautal | ||||||
Stuhlfels Talwand | ||||||
4 | ★★ Irisweg - with Wile E Coyote, Matilda | 80m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Surprisingly less complains from my daughter this time. Either she got used to the climbing or Wile E Coyote was the better seconding buddy. 🤣
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3+ | ★★ Normalweg - with Wile E Coyote, Matilda | 100m, 5 | Average | |||
My first rock ascend of the year and the first multi pitch route that I climbed with my daughter. Lovely experience for me even though she complained a lot 🤣. Thanks Wile E Coyote for your support.
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Uracher Alb | ||||||
Sirchinger Nadeln Kleine Nadel | ||||||
5- | ★ Mandelsplitter - with Sonnendeck, Wile E Coyote | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Für Hiltrun Buck
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Uracher Alb | ||||||
Sirchinger Nadeln Eulerrisse | ||||||
7+ | ★★★ Sunglasses at Night - with Georg Buck | 25m, 9 | ||||
crux nicht geschafft aber bis oben gekämpft
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7+ | ★★★ Sunglasses at Night - with Georg Buck | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Coole Linie. Crux
am zweiten Haken. Danach weite Hakenabstände die man mit Selbstvertrauen meistert. Für die Crux brauch ich ne Bürste und noch eine wenig Training. Alle anderen Züge sind mir mehr oder weniger gut gelungen.
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Uracher Alb | ||||||
Sirchinger Nadeln Sirchinger Riss | ||||||
4 | ★ Mooskamin - with Georg Buck | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Netter Kamin. Gut um den ganzen Körper aufzuwärmen.
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Uracher Alb | ||||||
Linke Wittlinger Felsen Frühlingsweg | ||||||
6+ | ★★ z'Urach - with Sonnendeck, Wile E Coyote | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Uracher Alb | ||||||
Linke Wittlinger Felsen Stollweg | ||||||
6+ | ★★★ Bonnie & Clyde - with Sonnendeck, Wile E Coyote | 35m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
So ineffizient den Anfang geklettert,aber es waren genug Körner bis zum Schluß übrig.
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Uracher Alb | ||||||
Linke Wittlinger Felsen Franzlweg | ||||||
4+ | Heller Bock - with Sonnendeck, Wile E Coyote | 15m | ||||
4 | ★ Kurze Verschneidung - with Sonnendeck, Wile E Coyote | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Gut aber zu kurz
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Uracher Alb | ||||||
Rossfels | ||||||
7+ | Flucht nach vorn - with Sonnendeck, Wile E Coyote, Hiltrun Buck | 25m | ||||
6 | ★★ Soloteufel - with Sonnendeck, Wile E Coyote, Hiltrun Buck | 30m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
7- | ★ Direkter Vagabundenweg - with Sonnendeck, Wile E Coyote, Hiltrun Buck | 30m | ★ Good | |||
6+ | ★★ Platte - with Sonnendeck, Wile E Coyote, Hiltrun Buck | 20m | ★ Good | |||
6- | ★ Gelbe Verschneidung - Sanduhreinstieg - with Sonnendeck, Wile E Coyote, Hiltrun Buck | 25m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
5- | ★ Rechte Führe - with Sonnendeck, Wile E Coyote | 25m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Tue 12th Sep 2023 - Donautal | ||||||
Hausener Felsen Alte Hausener Wand Nordwand | ||||||
7+ | ★★★ Goldmarie - with Hiltrun Buck, Wile E Coyote | 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Did not finish the final traverse because of wet rock. Until the retreat it felt no more difficult than 'Immer wenn es regnet'. Let's see if we need to upgrade or downgrade one of them to align the grades.
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7- | ★★★ Immer wenn es regnet - with Hiltrun Buck, Wile E Coyote | 30m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Avoided the wet crack finish
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Tue 12th Sep 2023 - Donautal | ||||||
Hausener Felsen Zweite Zinne | ||||||
5- | Rechts vor links - with Hiltrun Buck, Wile E Coyote | 20m, 7 | Average | |||
Okay, to warmup or to reach the belay of Kaltfront.
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Tue 12th Sep 2023 - Donautal | ||||||
Hausener Felsen Erste Zinne Idiotenüberhang | ||||||
6 |
★ Zinnenprinzessin P1
- with
Hiltrun Buck, Wile E Coyote
1
6
30m
| 30m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Almost not a #warmup
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Thu 17th Aug 2023 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Dahner Gebiet Braut und Bräutigam | ||||||
6- | ★ Wandring statt Ehering - with Rosalie, Matilda, Inga | 30m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
First ascent in the Pfalz. Thanks to the good protection. Did favor this over the classic chimney because I've had just a set of nuts with me.
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Tue 11th Jul 2023 - Donautal | ||||||
Stuhlfels Ostwand | ||||||
6- |
★★ Frühsportweg P1
- with
Wile E Coyote, Hiltrun Buck, Katja
1
6-
15m
| 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 11th Jul 2023 - Donautal | ||||||
Stuhlfels Oswald | ||||||
4+ ~6- | ★ R5 - with Wile E Coyote, Hiltrun Buck, Katja | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
4+ | ★★ R4 - with Wile E Coyote, Hiltrun Buck, Katja | 10m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5- | ★ R3 - with Wile E Coyote, Hiltrun Buck, Katja | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
6+ ~7- | ★★ R2 - with Wile E Coyote, Hiltrun Buck, Katja | 10m, 5 | ||||
5 | R1 - with Wile E Coyote, Hiltrun Buck, Katja | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
Tue 20th Jun 2023 - Donautal | ||||||
Dachstein Bellevue | ||||||
3 ~4 | ★ Bionicle - with Clemens | 10m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Abbau mit #hirnbirne
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8- | ★★ Schlauer Uhu — 2 attempts - with Clemens | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fetter Überhang in das Höhlendach. Um die Kante rumzukommen war mir nicht möglich. Unfassbar, aber die Griffe waren zu "scharfkantig". Henkel, Untergriffe, Knieklemmer. Eigentlich alles was das Herz begehrt. Aber scheinbar zu schwer für mich.
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7 | ★ Sarah Amelie - with Clemens | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Tja, kurz vorm Umlenker ging mir dann doch noch der Strom aus und das Unwetter hatte uns auch erreicht. Also abgebaut und in die Höhle verzogen.
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6- | ★★ Silas - with Clemens | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6+ | ★★ Finn - with Clemens | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Notiz an mich selbst: Gärtnerwerkzeug mitbringen.
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5 | Hobbit - with Clemens | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
3 ~4 | ★ Bionicle - with Clemens | 10m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Ein Trip in die Unterwelt 😉 Stalagmiten und Stalagtiten lassen grüßen. Der Start ist für ne 3 zu schwer... Eine Stirnlampe ist hilfreich um alle Details der Höhle und die Haken zu entdecken.
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Tue 13th Jun 2023 - Donautal | ||||||
Stuhlfels Ostwand | ||||||
6- |
★★ Frühsportweg P1
- with
Hiltrun Buck
1
6-
15m
| 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6+ | ★★★ Via Sabine - with Hiltrun Buck | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
7- | ★★ Silbenrätsel - with Hiltrun Buck | 15m, 3 | ||||
6+ |
★★ Neue Route P1
- with
Hiltrun Buck
1
| 30m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
7- | ★★ Silbenrätsel - with Hiltrun Buck | 15m, 3 | ||||
5+ | ★★ Fragezeichen - with Hiltrun Buck | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 13th Jun 2023 - Donautal | ||||||
Stuhlfels Oswald | ||||||
6+ ~7- | ★★ R2 - with Hiltrun Buck | 10m, 5 | ||||
6+ ~7- | ★★ R2 - with Hiltrun Buck | 10m, 5 | ||||
Tue 13th Jun 2023 - Donautal | ||||||
Stuhlfels Ostwand | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Linke Route - with Hiltrun Buck | 35m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Wed 7th Jun 2023 - Gorges du Chassezac | ||||||
Mazet Troubadour | ||||||
4c | ★★★ Tom bombadilum - with Clemens, Mareike, Inga, Matilda | 7m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
4c | ★★★ Ni neuvième degré - with Clemens, Mareike, Inga | 15m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5c | ★★★ Y'a pas que le foot dans la vie - with Clemens, Mareike, Inga | 15m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 7th Jun 2023 - Gorges du Chassezac | ||||||
Mazet La Plage | ||||||
5c | ★★★ Frigo - with Clemens, Mareike, Ings | 28m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wow still at 14:30 in the shade. Great dihedral.
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6a Hard | ★★ Voleur de sangle - with Clemens, Mareike | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mon 5th Jun 2023 - Gorges du Chassezac | ||||||
Mazet Nouveau | ||||||
6a+ | ★★★ Fissure - with Markus, Smilla | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
5b | ★★ Grand Intersection - with Markus, Smilla | 30m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 31st May 2023 - Gorges du Chassezac | ||||||
Mazet Troubadour | ||||||
4c ~5a | ★★ La ballade du ménestrel - with Inga | 15m, 12 | ||||
Very hard for the grade. Sandbag because of the polished rock and the long moves. Upper part is a slab that did not fit my style 🤣
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5c | ★ Cymbale rutilante - with Inga | 7m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
6b | ★★ Les Troubadoins - with Inga | 7m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6a+ | ★★ Patchinka tinka - with Matilda, Rosalie | 7m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5b | ★ Sax aphone story - with Matilda, Rosalie | 7m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
4c | ★★★ Tom bombadilum - with Matilda, Rosalie | 7m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Mon 29th May 2023 - Gorges du Chassezac | ||||||
Mazet Suspense et pilier girls | ||||||
6b |
★★★ Complot de famille P1
- with
Inga
1
6b
| 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Would not have been necessary to hang dog but I lack confidence in my abilities.
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Mon 29th May 2023 - Gorges du Chassezac | ||||||
Mazet Les Familles | ||||||
4c ~5a | L'Afrique en moins - with Inga | 15m | ||||
Super steep Start for the grade but with exceptional jugs. After branching of from 'La familiale' it's getting harder. Polished as expected and more difficult than feared 😅.
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Fri 14th Apr 2023 - Sass Negher | ||||||
Ivo | ||||||
6a+ |
★★★ L'Impronta del Gigante P1
- with
Rosalie, Matilda
1
6a+
| 60m | ★ Good | |||
5c | ★★ Lenti Serpenti | 50m | ★★ Very Good | |||
80m rope is not enough to descent from the top.
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Fri 14th Apr 2023 - Sass Negher | ||||||
Troglodromo | ||||||
4b | ★★★ La Via Della Amiche - with Rosalie, Matilda | 30m | ||||
For Nicky 😜
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4b | ★★ La Vendetta di Montezuma | 30m | ||||
Wed 22nd Mar 2023 - Donautal | ||||||
Aussichtsfelsen | ||||||
6+ | Wärzlesweg Direkt - with Alexander Oppe | 15m | ||||
6- ~6 | xy... ungelöst — 2 attempts - with Alexander Oppe | 25m, 11 | Don't Bother | |||
Two attempts to start into the route.
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6+ ~7 | ★★ Lock Down — 2 attempts - with Alexander Oppe | 25m | ||||
Direct start is way harder than 6+. Cheating to the left makes it way easier.
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7 | ★★ Schnurpulus - with Alexander Oppe | 25m, 7 | ||||
6+ |
★★ Meßkircher Kante
- with
Alexander Oppe
| 75m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5+ | ★ Bäumlesweg Direkt - with Alexander Oppe | 70m, 17 | ★ Good | |||
5+ | ★★ Bäumlesweg - with Alexander Oppe | 70m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 31st Dec 2022 - Donautal | ||||||
Falkenwand | ||||||
7 ~7+ | ★★★ Fuchur - with Dieser Lorenz | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The ne bolt is great. Much more relaxed to fall after the crux.
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7 | ★★ Bierkante - with Dieser Lorenz | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
7- | ★★ Hut ab - with Dieser Lorenz | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
7- | ★★ Hut ab - with Dieser Lorenz | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
5 | ★★ Falkenriss links - with Dieser Lorenz | ★ Good | ||||
Thu 1st Sep 2022 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Valle Pora Rocce dell'Orera | ||||||
5a | ★★ Luna - with Matilda, Rosalie, Inga | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
6a | ★ Luna diretta - with Matilda, Rosalie, Inga | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
3c | ★ Moro - with Matilda, Rosalie, Inga | 7m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
3c | ★★ L'Apprendista - with Matilda, Rosalie, Inga | 7m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Fri 26th Aug 2022 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Valle Pora Rocce dell'Orera | ||||||
7a | ★★ Saluti da Ausserberg - with Inga, Rosalie, Matilda, Felix | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Made it through the roof but was to pumped to clip the third bolt and had to let go.
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6a | ★★★ L'angolo nel cielo - with Inga, Rosalie, Matilda, Felix | 33m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
#lastrouteoftheday and long
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7a | ★★ Saluti da Ausserberg - with Inga, Rosalie, Matilda, Felix | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wow, what a roof. Good jugs but very reachy. The most horizontal overhang I've ever climbed so far. Orientation was pretty tricky for me.
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5b ~5b+ | ★ Trocadero - with Inga, Rosalie, Matilda, Felix | 15m | Don't Bother | |||
The interesting part of the climb is too short.
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5b Easy | ★★ Zanzibar - with Inga, Rosalie, Matilda, Felix | 34m | ★ Good | |||
4c |
★★ Razza Bastarda
- with
Inga, Rosalie, Matilda, Felix
2
4c
6m
3
4c
15m
| 21m | ★★★ Classic | |||
To clean the route I started directly below the second to last bolt of the first pitch (top rope) and found a beautiful direttissima with slightly overhanging crux just before joining the original route. Then I immediately led the second and third pitch. I don't recommend to lower off. Abseiling is safer because the anchor it is a few metres back and not in the wall.
Again great climbing. |
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4c |
★★ Razza Bastarda P1
- with
Inga, Rosalie, Matilda, Felix
1
4c
25m
| 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
To #warmup the first pitch only, because rope drag would be to massive to climb it in one push.
Great introduction into this sector. Good rock and friction, exposure as well. |
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Wed 24th Aug 2022 - Finale Ligure | ||||||
Rocca di Perti Falesia dei tre porcellini | ||||||
6a+/b | ★★ Lo Cordo - with Inga, Rosalie, Matilda, Felix | 25m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
First route left of 'Hänsel und Gretel'. Not mentioned in the guidebook are friends brought with them. Very good climb that starts with pockets into a dihedral. After the dihedral, leaving the shades the crux is waiting. You will recognize it because of the bolt that is equipped with a maillon. Probably left by someone bailing. First I tried the direct and very hard line but failed. Going straight would raise the difficulty unproportional, so I assume my solution to bypass on the left as okay. From there technical but easier to the rusty lower off.
Not repeated because of the heat. |
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5c ~5b+ | ★ Piccolo Principe - with Inga, Rosalie, Matilda, Felix | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
No idea if this was the route we equipped for the kids. Just hopped on the most easy looking line and setup the top rope. Unfortunately we were too late. The sunshine came around already. 😰
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Tue 9th Aug 2022 - Klettergarten Silvretta | ||||||
4+ ~5- | Obere Verschneidung - with Inga | |||||
I don't recommended to combine this with 'Anfängerglück'. The robe drag can be serious. Again the lower-off was on the top of the cliff. Don't understand why the developers put all the top anchors on top of the wall.
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7 ~7+ | Zum Landeplatz - with Inga | |||||
Wow, very crimpy pull through the overhang. I saw the saving hold, but couldn't reach it and bailed after some tries.
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5+ | ★★★ Anfängergluck - with Inga | |||||
Actually did this because I retreated from 'Zum Landeplatz'. Very steep for the grade.
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5+ | ★★ Via Charly - with Inga | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Both pitches in one push. The top belay/lower-off is placed on top of the cliff, not in the wall. So it is quite bad for the rope to lower-off. Either use the last bolt, abseil or walk down.
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Sun 7th Aug 2022 - Klettergarten Rifa Partenen | ||||||
5 ~5+ | ★★ Via Allrad - with Inga | 23m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A classic but steep for the grade. Especially the start into the second pitch may be demanding for beginners.
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7 | ★★ Zorn des Obelix - with Inga | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Completely got disturbed by all the tick marks and tried it the wrong way. Using the not so obvious crimp right of the line, it was easy to pull through the first overhang. Because of a new route to the left it feels like cheating doing it that way. But hey as long one can clip I don't care. Not my fault that the lines to near to each other. Not sure ifit is easier than 'Fingertrauma'.
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7+ ~7 | ★★ Fingertrauma - with Inga | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6 | ★★ Lätz Fätz - with Inga | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5- | ★ Seitensprung rechts - with Inga | 20m, 9 | ||||
5+ | Seitensprung links - with Inga, | |||||
Fri 5th Aug 2022 - Klettergarten Rifa Partenen | ||||||
5 ~5+ | ★ Goht scho - with Inga | 8 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 18th Jul 2022 - Donautal | ||||||
Hausener Felsen Alte Hausener Wand Nordwand | ||||||
7+/8- | ★★★ Bingo Bongo - with robert | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Next project. Very long and steep but doable.
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7- | ★★★ Immer wenn es regnet - with robert | 30m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Finally made it, only pinkpoint and on the somewhat power-saving line, but I made it. The exit crack has never been so easy. The trick is to use it very late. Stay on the right as long as possible, then you can easily reach the jugs in the crack.
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