Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Right Wing TnA Wall | ||||||
5.7 | ★★ Scylla and Charybdis | 36m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Was wet in the first crux section, so had to avoid that to the right.
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5.8 | ★★ Jenga | 35m, 17 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Driest route of the day - only the start (easy) was wet.
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5.9 | ★★ Kate and David's Excellent Adventure | 32m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Notch through first bulge was wet, so had to divert to the right. Not easier, just drier.
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5.7 PG | ★★ Big Finish | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Was wet in places, but mostly places that didn't matter.
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5.8 ~5.8 | ★ Ovipositor to Sunday Morning Stroll | 25m, 10 | Average | |||
Climbed the start of Ovipositor, until the roof, then escaped left onto Sunday Morning Stroll.
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5.5 | ★ Sunday Morning Stroll | 25m, 11 | Average | |||
The usual, bringing someone up so they can leave.
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Lower Cliff | ||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★ Little Lion Face | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 Hard | ★★ Randy Moss | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 Hard | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I am coming to appreciate Giggles more and more for how solid and sustained the climbing is at the grade.
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5.9 Hard | ★★ Zeit | 22m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
If you can figure out the beta for the start, 5.9 is fair -- but it is a WEIRD start. If you don't figure out the beta, then it will feel MUCH harder. Also, might be height-dependent. We need to get a short climber to give it a try.
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5.8 ~5.9 | ★★ Diggy Diggy Hole | 18m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Like many of the climbs at Lower Cliff, a bit stiff for the grade.
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Lone star | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Chas percé | 4 | ★ Good | |||
5.8 ~5.7 | ★★ Mysophobie | 6 | ||||
5.7 | ★ Gros orteil | 5 | ||||
5.6 | ★ Esprit de famille | 4 | ||||
5.5 | ★ La lili | 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) North End | ||||||
5.9 Easy | ★★ Open Season | 4 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Calabogie | ||||||
Main Cliff (Summer - Rock) 2nd Easy Way Down Sector | ||||||
5.10b Easy | ★★ La Madrina | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Had a foot slip, and thought I was going for a ride, but my hand was wedged into a crack, so it caught me. I think I may have wrenched my left shoulder a bit, though.
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5.10b | ★★ Assimilation | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
After 7 or 8 falls at the second bolt, my fingers were starting to ache from the crimps, so I gave up.
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5.10b | ★★ Locutus | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Surprised at how easily this went. Really good friction today with the cooler temperature must have helped.
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5.10a | ★★ Tea. Earl Grey. Hot. | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
One fall because I screwed up the beta at the crux.
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5.9 | ★★ Warbird | 12m | ★ Good | |||
5.7 | ★★ Make it So | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Agios Andreas | ||||||
5c+ Hard | ★★ Joker | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5c | ★★ Rambo | 20m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
5c | ★ Dirty Harry | 18m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
The most uncomfortable of my 5c leads for the trip -- the first half was always insecure -- slopy slippery hands and feet the whole way. I am just glad it was so closely bolted it was never particularly scary, despite being so insecure.
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5c | ★★ Legolas | 17m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5a | ★ Django | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
4c | ★ Bilbo | 15m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
5b | ★★ Skali | 15m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Clipping/cleaning the anchors is much harder than 5b, but I can understand that that's where the bolts needed to be.
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Fri 27th Oct 2023 - Geraki Wave | ||||||
5b+ ~5b | ★★ Souvlakias | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Might be 5b+ if you're not comfortable with a hand-jam or two, but everyone should be.
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5b | ★★ Platanos | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit squeezed bewteen the routes to the left and right.
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6a | ★★ Hani marounta | 20m | ★ Good | |||
6a+ | ★★ Orange line | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent line, too bad the adacent root squeezes it so badly.
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5c Easy | ★★ Mikros mystras | 18m | Average | |||
One 5c move.
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5b+ ~5b | ★ Maleatis apollo | 18m | ★ Good | |||
5c ~5b+ | ★ Nikiforos vrettakos | 18m | ★ Good | |||
6a | ★★ The 100 day road | 18m | ★ Good | |||
6a+ | ★★ Krousma | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6b | (new bolts left of Krousma) | 17m, 8 | ||||
Did all the moves, but took several tries at the crux.
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Wed 25th Oct 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Lakkos Dornröschen | ||||||
5c | ★★ Es war einmal... | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Also good climbing, but sharper than Three Kings, so sometimes the holds just hurt more.
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5c | ★★ Three Holy Kings | 30m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Excellent climbing on jugs. I was tired when I lead this, having just fought with one of the 6bs (on TR), but this opened up, and we had to grab it.
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6b+ ~6b | ★★ Egon | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seemed easier than Egon to the left, and better climbing and better bolting.
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6b ~6b+ | ★★ Yvonne | 14m | ★ Good | |||
At least one of the guide-books calls this 6b+. It would not be a comfortable lead unless confident at the grade, as the bolting is a bit sparse by local standards.
I got all the moves -- but with lots of falls along the way. |
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5a ~5b | Borge | 17m | Crap | |||
Badly bolted and squeezed by the route to the left. Not worth climbing unless you want to set up top-ropes on the 6Bs to the right which share the anchor.
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5a | ★ Terrier Brothers | 17m | Average | |||
A real squeeze-job with Borge to the right.
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Tue 24th Oct 2023 - Agios Petros | ||||||
Zonaga | ||||||
6a | ★★ Marianna | 18m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I just couldn't read the moves fast enough without pumping, AFTER the crux. I was two moves from the no-hands rest. Excellent climb, and I'm sure I could red-point it, if I ever climb it again, since I'd know enough of the moves to not pump out as quickly.
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5c | ★★ Kontakis | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit tough for a warm up, and the holds were a bit hard to read, but were all there.
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5b ~5c | ★ Kronion | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Do not get on this climb expecting a usual Leonidio-area 5a lead.
Guide book says 5a -- but no way. It is harder than Kontakis (which seemed a solid 5c) (agreed by several climbers with very different body sizes and climbing styles. |
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5b | ★★ Dutch cyclist | 13m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5a | ★ Margarita | 13m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Better, and steeper, than it looks.
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5c | ★ Locas Botas | 13m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
I found some bad beta, and probably made it more like 6a at the top.
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Mon 23rd Oct 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Lakkos Sabaton Ilektra | ||||||
5a | ★★ Ilektra | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Good climbing, but the exposure on the arete makes it a classic.
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5b | ★ Gabriel | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 23rd Oct 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Lakkos Sabaton Lower | ||||||
6a ~5c | ★ Podikus | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Route-finding on a traverse can be less obvious than on a more vertical route -- but if you find the best way through, this is no harder than 5c. And quite enjoyable.
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5a - b | ★ Juliett Extension | 15m, 10 | ||||
Guide book suggests extension is 5b, but really 5a seems fair.
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5b - c ~5c | ★★ Giota | 15m, 10 | ||||
Seems solid at 5c.
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6a | ★★ Tokotoukan | 15m, 9 | ||||
Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Kokkinovrachos Red Rock | ||||||
4c | ★ Masterplan | 20m | ★ Good | |||
4b | ★ Soft Parade | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Leonidio | ||||||
Kokkinovrachos Hospital | ||||||
6a+ ~6a | ★★ Psila | 40m | ||||
6a ~5c+ | ★★ Manolis Glezos | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Montagne d'Argent | ||||||
Grand Canyon | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Le Retour des Loups-Garous | 20m, 6 | Average | |||
5.8 ~5.9 | ★ Le "Speech" de Gaétan | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lots of wet on it, made it noticeably harder than 5.8
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5.10a | ★★ Pathfinder | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
sigh one fall at the crux.
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5.7 ~5.8 | ★ La Belle de Cadix | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
It has gotten more and more polished.
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Right Wing TnA Wall | ||||||
5.8 | ★ Come From Away | 38m, 22 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 | ★★ Scylla and Charybdis | 36m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Jenga | 35m, 17 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.7 PG | ★★ Big Finish | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
5.5 | ★ Sunday Morning Stroll | 25m, 11 | Average | |||
Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Weir | ||||||
Mur de l'ouest Ionescu | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Ace Rimmer | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Peril Inoxydable | 25m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★ Carnage d'Acier | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 23rd Sep 2023 - Parc d'Escalade Julien Labedan | ||||||
Secteur les Escaliers | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ L'Entre Deux | 22m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One fall at the top bulge, because I missed finding a foot out to the left. Once I noticed it, finished smoothly.
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Eardley Escarpment | ||||||
Western Cwm Spindrift Wall | ||||||
5.3 | ★ Ground Zero | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Weir | ||||||
Mur de l'ouest 2ème étage | ||||||
5.10a/b | ★★ Le Soleil se Leve a l'Est, le Mur est a l'Ouest | 27m | ★ Good | |||
Bleh.
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5.9 | ★★ Diedre Mauve | |||||
Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Lac Sam | ||||||
Lower Cliff | ||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★ Little Lion Face | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
5.7 Hard | ★★ Randy Moss | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.7 Hard | ★ Giggles | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Lone star | ||||||
5.8 ~5.7 | ★★ Mysophobie | 6 | ||||
Harder than Gros Orteil, but I think that is just the difference between an easy 7 and a stiffer 7.
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5.7 | ★ Gros orteil | 5 | ||||
5.6 | ★ Esprit de famille | 4 | ||||
Tue 22nd Aug 2023 - Wabun Lake | ||||||
Hill Side Cliff | ||||||
5.8 | ★★ Space Age Sunshine | 34m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 start, some relaxed climbing, then the 5.8 kicks back in.
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5.9 | ★★ The Mutants are Revolting | 32m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thin at the top, and the anchor stance isn't, but a bunch of good climbing.
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Tue 22nd Aug 2023 - Wabun Lake | ||||||
Lake Cliff aka Ant Hill | ||||||
5.11 | ★ Open project | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean on TR, but would be harder on lead -- some very thin climbing. And you might lose a critical hold or two to the gear.
On TR felt about 5.10b |
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5.7 | ★★ Half Moon Run | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
5.8 Hard | Bleep Bloop | 8m, 3 | Don't Bother | |||
First climb at the crag, and my least favourite. It just wasn't, at least for me, enjoyable climbing.
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5.9 | ★★ Mad Tom | 19m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Much more consistent at the grade than the 10s to its right, making it a better climb.
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5.10b Easy | ★ Sparklepuff | 22m, 7 | ||||
Failed to figure out the finish, and took several lead falls trying. Probably 5.10b.
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5.10b | ★ Uncharted | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Maybe 5.10b? Though only at the start, rest is pretty mellow, maybe 5.8-5.9.
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Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Calabogie | ||||||
Lake Cliff Left Side | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Calabogie Dreaming | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Calabogie | ||||||
Lake Cliff Right Side | ||||||
5.9 | ★ Learning by doing | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
Final moves to the anchor are not a gimme, and a bit exposed (compared to the rest of the bolting in this section).
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5.10a ~5.9 | ★★ Dissolution of Parliament 2.0 | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Really really hard 5.8. Might be 5.9. Especially if you don't hand-jam to pull past bolt 2.
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5.10b ~5.10a | ★★ Toxic Positivity | 13m, 7 | Average | |||
Barely 5.10a to clip the anchor, at least at my height, but the final pull up to anchor height is noticeably harder than anything else on the route. Do you have to do that final move? Then, maybe, 10b. If you're done when you clip... not so 10b.
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5.9 | ★★ Healing Crystals | 15m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Calabogie | ||||||
Lake Cliff Left Side | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Shorty’s Revenge | 24m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
While it took me a try or two at the crux, the rest was fine, and I think I've got beta that will go smoothly next time. So, on lead next time.
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5.9 | ★★ Uncle Jim’s Magic Box | 22m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.9 | ★★ Calabogie Dreaming | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Start was damp-to-wet, so stick-clipped bolt 2. Was actually damp through the first 4-5 bolts, but climbed ok.
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