Ascents in Sunshine Coast by Peatey

Climbing this in late November was a mistake. The entire route cops full sun, all day. We got thoroughly cooked and dehydrated.

Climbing was reasonably good, except pitch 3 and 4 which was low angle and scrubby but par for the course on S Beerwah.

Deserves more traffic for sure. Funky 3d jugs and mini headwall. Mantle wasn't hard, but anchors off to the R cause rough drag around the lip.

Hadn't done this one. Great long jugging like the rest of this wall.

Fun through the rooflet, there's holds if you find them in time.

Finish up over the sandy bulge was very average. Would link into the nice headwall finish to the chains of the 20 next time.

Steep jugs.

There's a hand crack most of the way. Not worth the R?

Climbs much better than the lichen makes it look.

Presume this was the direct finish up via the carrot. Didn't feel like a 16 once it got thin and reachy 😅

Hardest pitch I did today by several grades.

Not bad. South Beerwah-esque

Fun

Backlog now it's listed here.

Climbed circa 2016 because it was there...

Rapped off a number of small trees.

This was too ambitious with my busted rib.

Took Mum for a scramble up caves instead.

“Reptiles are just retarded birds,” said the King of the Birds, “and so I am your King, thank you very much.”

A fun day on the side of a hill that ended up having very little to do with the hill, and much to do with the quality (and patience) of the company I got to share it with.

Approach: We came off The Martian as advertised, mid pitch 8, which was significantly higher and steeper than the hands free rising vegetated traverse that started at about the pitch 7 belay. Would recommend future ascensionists deviate from that route there instead.

I then led Reneé on a merry venture up and down several pitches of soloing, at alternating times slabby, steep and abrasively vegetated. All the while Ryan napped patiently at the base of the actual route. Some time later after a tour of Beerwah's SW saddle we pulled on to Divine Comedy proper.

The Route:

P1 – A bit crumbly but it’s all there. Bolts and a Jesus nut right where you want it. Not a giveaway at 18.

P2 – The cruxy corner crack. The crack was wet where it mattered, which made the 3 distinct crux sections quite... cruxy... to free. Wet and silty as it was, the fingerlocks were bomber and it did force some (committing) but great crack movement. Huge props to Ryan who onsighted the pitch to within 2 foot of the anchor before going for a ride stepping back in from the arête, taking a small garden with him. Could be hard Frog 22 if dry and clean, but I don’t see that ever happening given the location. Reneé managed to second it clean front on jambing up the filthy flared pods in the top third, it’s unclear how normal humans should best approach it.

P3 – Cool traverse under roof, bolt ladder will go free if someone can be bothered to dry off properly after the wet first half of the pitch and brush the inevitable silt off everything on the arête.

P4 – Crack above roof that you can see from The Martian. Short, protectable crack that makes you work harder than you feel you should have to for vertical thin hands.

To the top, follow hangers and line of most solid-ish rock. Climbing bits of this in the evening gloom definitely added to the ambiance.

Topped out to a sunset and the summit and descent to ourselves, delightful.

Not hard, but a bit runout and some pretty average rock.

Not crazy hard, a bit sequency up to the lip, then an inglorious mantle.

Not flowy or nice movement. Pretty great rock and position though.

Found it awkward and hard in the sun, could just have been me..

Rpt lap. Still good.

Linked 2-3 and 5-6, more to fit around other parties on the wall than the most natural climbing.

2 shots. Doable, just a sequence of long lower percentage moves in the top half.

Stiff.

Revisited against my better judgement because I remember it being very reachy.

Channelled my inner lankdog and crimped on through.

Access lap.

Cleaning lap.

Some genuine slab moves. Really fun.

Dropped the first throw then clean to top. Questioning whether it's worth the skin.

A very long time coming. 5.5 years according to thecrag. Not even happy. Just glad it's done.

Repeat, enjoyable moves.

Had a lap to check out the traverse in for the MM/TT linkup. Looks fun for a day with fresher tips.

Cleaning up an old dog.

Went second shot today plus an attempt in 2016. Lots of pouncing to good holds from bad holds.

Draws up and found the holds.

Probably soft depending on how much you indulge in the arete. Fun fighting the barn door either way.

+3 to R.

Agree with Peter Martland , it can't possibly be a 12 as that grade is exclusively for chimneys.

Really quite good.

Had to pounce, but not too reachy.

Bit contrived, but it does force a nice crimp sequence.

Loose rock, wasps, lichen and a hard move off a ledge.