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Ascents by John Pitcairn

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 961 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Crag Quality Climber Date
Sat 15th Sep 2018 - Sheridan Hills
Chunderosa Buttress
20 Hotter than a Hot Thing

Alzheimers onsight. Nice sustained 17-18 to a great rest before tackling the crux, where the holds are smaller and the moves longer. Pleased I can still do it. Freeclimb guide says 21, maybe only one or two moves though.

Sport 30m Sheridan Hills Very Good John Pitcairn
Sat 15th Sep 2018
18 Aurum

Good exposure at the crux.

Sport 25m Sheridan Hills Good John Pitcairn
Sat 15th Sep 2018
Sat 15th Sep 2018 - Sheridan Hills
Flying Cow Buttress
20 Pigs In Space

Struggled a bit with the crux clip

Sport 15m, 10 Sheridan Hills Good John Pitcairn
Sat 15th Sep 2018
17 Pani Para Chha

Enjoyable arete

Sport 15m, 9 Sheridan Hills Good John Pitcairn
Sat 15th Sep 2018
Sun 9th Sep 2018 - Waipapa
Main Cliff Wall of Fate
17 Billy Bold

Lugged the gear in, might as well use it. The OR jam gloves were great, fully committed on 2 hand jams. Wez seconded.

- with Wez, Gareth
Trad 12m Waipapa Good John Pitcairn
Sun 9th Sep 2018
Sun 9th Sep 2018 - Waipapa
Main Cliff Millenium Wall
22 Sun Dried Tomatoes

The moves turn out to all be pretty do-able, but finding the holds and linking things is not at all obvious.

- with Phil Higgins, Sharon
Sport 15m, 5 Waipapa John Pitcairn
Sun 9th Sep 2018
18 Dogs Breakfast

Nervy balancy wee number in places, sketchy top out. Maybe we were too far left but the arete was pretty green in the first half.

- with Wez
Sport 17m, 7 Waipapa Good John Pitcairn
Sun 9th Sep 2018
Sun 9th Sep 2018 - Waipapa
Main Cliff The Arches
18 The Arches

Been a while. Clean and controlled. Nice top belaying in the sun. Prob not the best Waipapa intro for Matt.

- with Gareth, Wez
Sport 35m, 13 Waipapa Classic John Pitcairn
Sun 9th Sep 2018
Sat 1st Sep 2018 - Maungarei Springs
Right of the Fence wall
18 The Frenz Experiment

Hand & toe crack jams. Forgot draws so just cams, er...

- with Tim Swain
Trad 10m Maungarei Springs Good John Pitcairn
Sat 1st Sep 2018
Sat 1st Sep 2018 - Maungarei Springs
Lakeside wall
20 Sylvie’s Blast Hole - with Tim Swain Sport 11m, 4 Maungarei Springs Good John Pitcairn
Sat 1st Sep 2018
20 A Carp Died for This Climb - with Tim Swain Sport 11m, 4 Maungarei Springs Good John Pitcairn
Sat 1st Sep 2018
Mon 27th Aug 2018 - Froggatt Edge
Main Cliff
20 Monsterpiece Theatre

Recovered from accidental campus at the roof then pumped out on the headwall, couldn't clip, 3 decent falls trying, left a draw of shame.

Sport 25m, 10 Froggatt Edge John Pitcairn
Mon 27th Aug 2018
Mon 27th Aug 2018 - Froggatt Edge
Animal Biscuit Valley Bring Your Daughter Wall
19 Bring Your Daughter to the Slaughter

Clean and controlled. Bloody good route.

Sport 25m, 8 Froggatt Edge Very Good John Pitcairn
Mon 27th Aug 2018
Mon 27th Aug 2018 - Froggatt Edge
Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Australia face)
21 Lunar Leopard

Clean but with preclipped first draw. Must revisit for a redpoint.

Sport 20m, 6 Froggatt Edge Good John Pitcairn
Mon 27th Aug 2018
Mon 27th Aug 2018 - Froggatt Edge
Animal Biscuit Valley The Bits
18 Cowabunga

Right eye still bung but we make do.

Sport 12m, 4 Froggatt Edge Average John Pitcairn
Mon 27th Aug 2018
Sat 14th Jul 2018 - Froggatt Edge
Main Cliff
16 White Christmas

Somewhat stylish for a change. Bridge all the way.

Sport 15m, 5 Froggatt Edge Good John Pitcairn
Sat 14th Jul 2018
17 Thunder Blaster

Retrieving gear after Gareth's valiant assault on the top overhang.

Sport 20m, 7 Froggatt Edge Good John Pitcairn
Sat 14th Jul 2018
17 Thunder Blaster

Surely I have done this before? Great fun finish.

Sport 20m, 7 Froggatt Edge Good John Pitcairn
Sat 14th Jul 2018
16 Bonne Annee

The best 16 here?

Sport 20m, 7 Froggatt Edge Very Good John Pitcairn
Sat 14th Jul 2018
Sat 14th Jul 2018 - Froggatt Edge
Slug Wall
17 Firestarter

A bit slimy and mossy down low, ok top half. Teaching belay skills sharpens the focus...

Sport 18m, 6 Froggatt Edge Average John Pitcairn
Sat 14th Jul 2018
Thu 12th Jul 2018 - Castle Rock
Lower Tier
17 Green Spot

Yup, pumpy face climbing. Or we're just old and tired.

- with Grant Johnston
Sport 16m, 5 Castle Rock Average John Pitcairn
Thu 12th Jul 2018
16 Ride On Time

Not especially pumpy, some good heel hooks.

Sport 14m, 4 Castle Rock Good John Pitcairn
Thu 12th Jul 2018
14 Cannibal Groove

I've climbed this before on bolts, goes well enough on gear which starts small but becomes more heartening the higher you go.

- with Grant Johnston
Sport 25m, 6 Castle Rock Good John Pitcairn
Thu 12th Jul 2018
16 The Grim Reamer

And this. Fun Bags is better.

Sport 15m, 6 Castle Rock Good John Pitcairn
Thu 12th Jul 2018
16 Fun Bags

Pretty sure I've been up this before.

- with Grant Johnston
Sport 15m, 6 Castle Rock Good John Pitcairn
Thu 12th Jul 2018
Tue 3rd Jul 2018 - Maungarei Springs
Right of the Fence wall
19 Midday Lightning

Good fun, jammy start, exciting wee traverse, nice moves above. Ball nuts were handy. Not sure its 19 though.

- with Grant Johnston
Trad 12m Maungarei Springs Very Good John Pitcairn
Tue 3rd Jul 2018
17 Atomic Rooster

Better overall than Frenz, and the bottom moves are harder especially if you stop to get a high piece in before committing.

- with Grant Johnston
Mixed 10m, 2 Maungarei Springs Good John Pitcairn
Tue 3rd Jul 2018
18 The Frenz Experiment

Bottom is good but top is not, seems a tad loose up there. 18 is very generous, thought 16 perhaps?

- with Grant Johnston
Trad 10m Maungarei Springs Good John Pitcairn
Tue 3rd Jul 2018
Tue 3rd Jul 2018 - Maungarei Springs
Lakeside wall
20 A Carp Died for This Climb

Procrastinated at crux. Chalk helped.

- with Grant Johnston
Sport 11m, 4 Maungarei Springs Good John Pitcairn
Tue 3rd Jul 2018
Sat 30th Jun 2018 - Castle Rock
Lower Tier
18 Reamed By Percentage

Great nervy traverse into steep pocket hauling and bridging. Got through the crux but tòo befuddled to clip, downclimbed and sat on the previous bolt, similar to years ago. Got it right next go, barely. Solid for the grade I reckon.

Sport 25m, 8 Castle Rock Very Good John Pitcairn
Sat 30th Jun 2018
18 Out With The Boys

No easier than the 19 next to it. Both are soft.

Sport 15m, 4 Castle Rock Average John Pitcairn
Sat 30th Jun 2018
19 Wild Country Express

Not bad. Pretty sure I've never been on it.

Sport 15m, 4 Castle Rock Good John Pitcairn
Sat 30th Jun 2018
17 Girls, Girls, Girls

Must have done this years ago surely, it's decent. Belay by Rosie and Ohm.

Sport 20m, 7 Castle Rock Good John Pitcairn
Sat 30th Jun 2018
Sat 2nd Jun 2018 - Froggatt Edge
Bete Noir Wall
18 Ignimbrite Crack

Chickened out and sat on the first cam, watched it graunch down a bit and decided to clip the first bolt on Ignimbrite as backup. Good laybacking and jamming follows, widening from thin hands to fists. Must do properly.

Trad 20m Froggatt Edge Very Good John Pitcairn
Sat 2nd Jun 2018
Sat 2nd Jun 2018 - Froggatt Edge
Main Cliff
18 Roadweary

Pretty sure I have never been on this. Sharpish holds, some high steps, not a soft touch. Possibly drifted a bit too far towards arete near the top.

Sport 20m, 9 Froggatt Edge Good John Pitcairn
Sat 2nd Jun 2018
Sat 2nd Jun 2018 - Froggatt Edge
Slug Wall
17 Pyro Pete

It's OK but wouldn't quite call it good. Muddy winter pockets down low and slimy ledge detract from the experience somewhat.

Sport 18m, 6 Froggatt Edge Average John Pitcairn
Sat 2nd Jun 2018
16 Spiny Norman

Pretty sure I must have climbed this before sometime.

Sport 18m, 6 Froggatt Edge Average John Pitcairn
Sat 2nd Jun 2018
Fri 27th Apr 2018 - Froggatt Edge
Main Cliff
16 Bonne Annee

May possibly have done this a long time ago, not sure. Really nice thoughtful slab moves, highly recommended but perhaps not if 16 is your limit.

- with Grant Johnston, Tim Swain
Sport 20m, 7 Froggatt Edge Very Good John Pitcairn
Fri 27th Apr 2018
Fri 27th Apr 2018 - Froggatt Edge
Animal Biscuit Valley Bring Your Daughter Wall
19 Bring Your Daughter to the Slaughter

Unpumped, another go after watching grant's lefty compressed finish. Longish fall off that. Reaching right definitely better for me. 4 times through the top overhang by now, enough.

- with Grant Johnston, Tim Swain
Sport 25m, 8 Froggatt Edge Very Good John Pitcairn
Fri 27th Apr 2018
19 Bring Your Daughter to the Slaughter

Made the start harder than needed, got fairly pump through the rest, fell off at the top crux. Got through next go but hard to clip the anchor due to mucho pumpo. Any suggestion this might be 18 is laughable.

- with Grant Johnston, Tim Swain
Sport 25m, 8 Froggatt Edge Very Good John Pitcairn
Fri 27th Apr 2018
Fri 27th Apr 2018 - Froggatt Edge
Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Australia face)
21 Lunar Leopard

Nah. Didn't get to the lip. A pad wouldn't be a bad idea.

Sport 20m, 6 Froggatt Edge John Pitcairn
Fri 27th Apr 2018
17 Moon Base Alpha

Not bad but not 2 stars. Think left.

- with Grant Johnston, Tim Swain
Sport 20m, 6 Froggatt Edge Good John Pitcairn
Fri 27th Apr 2018
Thu 26th Apr 2018 - Sheridan Hills
Western Wall
16 Chevre

Pretty exposed on the arete, nice lead Tim. Don't go left before clipping all the bolts to reduce the rope drag. Just made it off through the goats before dark.

- with Grant Johnston, Tim Swain
Sport 35m, 10 Sheridan Hills Very Good John Pitcairn
Thu 26th Apr 2018
Thu 26th Apr 2018 - Sheridan Hills
Chunderosa Buttress
17 Carpe Diem

Felt reasonably sustained.

- with Grant Johnston, Tim Swain
Sport 30m, 7 Sheridan Hills Very Good John Pitcairn
Thu 26th Apr 2018
Thu 26th Apr 2018 - Sheridan Hills
Flying Cow Buttress
20 Fire and Ice

An experimental traverse to hang under the crux bulge was not a good idea. Reversed that then did the proper move. Quite a tenuous nervy move rightward above the bulge will get you going.

Sport 15m Sheridan Hills Very Good John Pitcairn
Thu 26th Apr 2018
18 Quacky Duck

Much better effort. Balancy leftward crux move, get your hand out of there!

- with Grant Johnston, Tim Swain
Sport 15m Sheridan Hills Good John Pitcairn
Thu 26th Apr 2018
17 Pani Para Chha

Fun arete

- with Grant Johnston, Tim Swain
Sport 15m, 9 Sheridan Hills Very Good John Pitcairn
Thu 26th Apr 2018
Fri 6th Apr 2018 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie
18 Virginia

My kinda thing, a bit old-school and bloody great. No explicit thrutching that I remember, but plenty of bridging, jamming and weirdness, reasonably sustained. 2.9 stars. Used a #4 C4 (save it for later if you only have one) and several hexes, one of which my second needed to clip to a loop dropped from above for easier retrieval on abseil. Great climb to finish the trip.

- with shichang
Trad 25m Arapiles Classic John Pitcairn
Fri 6th Apr 2018
Fri 6th Apr 2018 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall
11 Hurricane Lamp Cracks (Hurricane Lamp Cracks Linkup The Shroud)

Fun linkup, pitches 1 and 3 are highlights. Got stuck behind a party of our elders and betters at the tennis court but shade was available.

- with shichang
1 12 25m linkup The Shroud , lead by John Pitcairn
2 10 22m lead by shichang
3 10 25m lead by John Pitcairn
4 8 43m lead by shichang
Trad 110m Arapiles Very Good John Pitcairn
Fri 6th Apr 2018
Thu 5th Apr 2018 - Arapiles
Northern Group Kachoong Area
18 Hurts

Pumpy indeed, and hot rock made it very sweaty. Good gear, and short enough to clip crux cams direct.

- with shichang
Trad 18m Arapiles Very Good John Pitcairn
Thu 5th Apr 2018
18 Golden Echo

After Anna's Kachoong siege photo session. Deliberately didn't watch Frankie and Anna earlier, managed to make the left face awkward with an undercling traverse then didn't protect the right face traverse enough (ie at all). I'm told this is great, and none of the moves are hard, but a traverse through a corner really doesn't float my boat much.

- with shichang, Anna
Trad 25m Arapiles Good John Pitcairn
Thu 5th Apr 2018
Wed 4th Apr 2018 - Arapiles
Bushranger Bluff Main Wall
14 Ckinell

Could have had more gear in the crux ShiChang ... really fun and more of an overhang than it looks from the ground.

- with shichang
Trad 28m Arapiles Very Good John Pitcairn
Wed 4th Apr 2018
6 Revolver Crack

Shade! Fun crack with plenty of face holds but I reckon 6 would be a sandbag. Another top rope setup for Rosie, all good.

- with shichang, Rosie
Trad 20m Arapiles Very Good John Pitcairn
Wed 4th Apr 2018
Wed 4th Apr 2018 - Arapiles
Bushranger Bluff Back Wall
13 Trooper Two

Almost 2 stars I reckon. Nice climbing.

- with shichang
Trad 10m Arapiles Good John Pitcairn
Wed 4th Apr 2018
6 Trooper Three

Setting up a top rope for Rosie's first Arapiles route. It gave her no trouble. Getting the big hex out of the anchor gave me some.

- with Rosie
Trad 10m Arapiles Good John Pitcairn
Wed 4th Apr 2018
Tue 3rd Apr 2018 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Frenzy Pinnacle
15 Viagra

Enjoyable. A good old-fashioned P1 jam bridge grunt followed by a fingery start to P2, nice high position at sunset.

- with shichang
1 15 20m lead by shichang
2 15 15m lead by John Pitcairn
Trad 35m Arapiles Good John Pitcairn
Tue 3rd Apr 2018
Tue 3rd Apr 2018 - Arapiles
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
18 Falcon

Rapped in to do P2 only. Fantastic wee route, took the left option with a couple of sneaky overhanging cruxes above good gear and an exciting top out (may have neglected to traverse R).

- with shichang
Trad 30m Arapiles Very Good John Pitcairn
Tue 3rd Apr 2018
16 Yo Yo

Ran P1 & P2 together. Got a sore neck watching ShiChang procrastinate at the P2 crux. Then we did the left crack variant to pitch 3 which turns out to be a really cool balancy but much better protected start, beginning as a finger crack, widening to hands with a final touch of thigh jam offwidth before pulling over the top. Rapped down to Falcon from there.

- with shichang
1 13 30m lead by shichang
2 16 13m lead by shichang
3 18 13m lead by John Pitcairn
Trad 90m Arapiles Very Good John Pitcairn
Tue 3rd Apr 2018
11 Phoenix

Led great first pitch, as fun as Kestrel but with more spaced gear options.

- with John Henry, shichang
1 11 48m lead by John Pitcairn
2 9 30m lead by John Henry
3 8 20m lead by shichang
Trad 98m Arapiles Very Good John Pitcairn
Mon 2nd Apr 2018
Sun 1st Apr 2018 - Arapiles
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress
20 Electric Warrior

Had to think very hard at the cruxes, pleased to get up it clean on TR. Will be a good lead fight.

- with John Henry, shichang
Trad 42m Arapiles Very Good John Pitcairn
Sun 1st Apr 2018
14 Megalomaniac

Perhaps not the climb John was wanting haha, a learning opportunity...

- with John Henry, shichang
Trad 36m Arapiles Very Good John Pitcairn
Sun 1st Apr 2018
Sun 1st Apr 2018 - Arapiles
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
13 Kestrel

Nice leads by John and ShiChang. Too hot for Falcon, early lunch and failure to siesta.

- with John Henry, shichang
Trad 50m Arapiles Very Good John Pitcairn
Sun 1st Apr 2018
16 Absolutely Fabulous (Absolutely Fabulous Linkup Absolutely Stupid (indirect finish))

First time on the second pitch and headed off route, left via a cool wee hand traverse at the bulge, where I should have gone right. Then up past some suss rock above the scramble gully, trending further left to steepening headwall, place bomber gear before committing moves on horizontal slots to rock out onto flinders lane a long way left. We reckoned perhaps about grade 18 and not bad. If it hasn't been done before I'm calling it Absolutely Stupid.

- with John Henry, shichang
1 16 55m linkup Absolutely Stupid - indirect finish , lead by John Henry
2 18 32m lead by John Pitcairn
Trad 88m Arapiles Very Good John Pitcairn
Sat 31st Mar 2018
Fri 30th Mar 2018 - Arapiles
Far North Lower Curtain Wall
21 Cut Short

Quite strenuous. Climbed past crux cam to welcome rest then downclimbed to get it out. Really enjoyed this.

- with Anna
Trad 40m Arapiles Very Good John Pitcairn
Fri 30th Mar 2018
21 Comic Relief

Bloody great, cool crux moves with beta from Frankie.

- with Anna
Trad 30m Arapiles Classic John Pitcairn
Fri 30th Mar 2018
18 Entertainer

Not convinced the left hand finish is any easier than the direct...

- with Anna
Trad 35m Arapiles Very Good John Pitcairn
Fri 30th Mar 2018
19 Sideshow

Not my idea of a first climb for the trip warmup but proved easier than expected. Nice knee bar before crux. Will return to lead.

- with Anna
Trad 35m Arapiles Very Good John Pitcairn
Fri 30th Mar 2018
Sun 25th Feb 2018 - Maungarei Springs
Lakeside wall
20 Sylvie’s Blast Hole

Summer mornings are way too hot here.

- with Grant Johnston
Sport 11m, 4 Maungarei Springs Good John Pitcairn
Sun 25th Feb 2018
20 A Carp Died for This Climb - with Grant Johnston Sport 11m, 4 Maungarei Springs Good John Pitcairn
Sun 25th Feb 2018
Sun 18th Feb 2018 - Froggatt Edge
Main Cliff
18 Terror Incognito

Bloody great.

Sport 25m, 10 Froggatt Edge Classic John Pitcairn
Sun 18th Feb 2018
16 White Christmas

Managed to make this more awkward than I remember.

Sport 15m, 5 Froggatt Edge Good John Pitcairn
Sun 18th Feb 2018
Sat 17th Feb 2018 - Sheridan Hills
Chunderosa Buttress
18 Hannah Louise

Retrieving anchor gear.

Sport 25m, 8 Sheridan Hills Very Good John Pitcairn
Sat 17th Feb 2018
19 School Bus Route

A couple of good falls working out the overhanging bit, but this is pretty great. Clean air with nothing to hit, no excuse not to go for it. Sustained, feels harder than Hotter than a Hot Thing.

Sport 35m, 8 Sheridan Hills Very Good John Pitcairn
Sat 17th Feb 2018
17 Hebe

Drifted too far right onto the face and straight up midway, oops. A sit to think that out, the arete is where you want to be.

Sport 30m, 15 Sheridan Hills Good John Pitcairn
Sat 17th Feb 2018
Thu 8th Feb 2018 - Sheridan Hills
Flying Cow Buttress
20 Pigs In Space

Some sharp holds through the overhang crux. No panic, plenty of time to work it through, but finished with a very numb finger.

Sport 15m, 10 Sheridan Hills Good John Pitcairn
Thu 8th Feb 2018
Thu 8th Feb 2018 - Sheridan Hills
Chunderosa Buttress
18 Hannah Louise

I seem to do the crux differently every time. Straight up works well. Fun.

Sport 25m, 8 Sheridan Hills Very Good John Pitcairn
Thu 8th Feb 2018
Thu 8th Feb 2018 - Sheridan Hills
Flying Cow Buttress
17 Pani Para Chha

Thought I must have climbed this before but it would seem not. Really quite nice and better than Dead Cow or Pigs. Deserves a star if those get one.

Sport 15m, 9 Sheridan Hills Good John Pitcairn
Thu 8th Feb 2018
15 Dead Cow Groove

It seems unlikely that I have never led this but evidently so. Warmup, belay by Rosie and Ohm.

Sport 15m, 10 Sheridan Hills Average John Pitcairn
Thu 8th Feb 2018
Sat 27th Jan 2018 - Sebastapol Bluffs
Javelin Wall
17 Javelin

Really good and worth the approach (we came in left). A dicky but adequately protected move or two on finger locks across an exfoliating slab to get established in the crack (crux), then interesting features, a wide range of gear and some good jamming. Possible dodgy block at the top overlap, make up your own mind. Recommended. Ran out of evening but will come back for Five Ring Circus which looks fun.

- with Grant Johnston
Trad 30m Sebastapol Bluffs Very Good John Pitcairn
Sat 27th Jan 2018
Fri 26th Jan 2018 - Sebastapol Bluffs
Red Wall
16 Mako

More varied and better than Shark Attack, with a fun overlap on the second pitch. Watch out for ropes getting stuck in the bushes when you pull them, we nearly dislodged a head-sized block just nestled there onto ourselves.

- with Grant Johnston
1 16 33m lead by Grant Johnston
2 15 30m lead by John Pitcairn
Sport 63m Sebastapol Bluffs Very Good John Pitcairn
Fri 26th Jan 2018
16 Shark Attack

Top pitch a bit repetitive, didn't really float my boat.

- with Grant Johnston
1 14 50m lead by Grant Johnston
2 16 37m lead by John Pitcairn
Sport 87m, 20 Sebastapol Bluffs Average John Pitcairn
Fri 26th Jan 2018
Fri 26th Jan 2018 - Sebastapol Bluffs
Twin Cracks
21 Ethical Debate

The name perhaps refers to it being a squeeze route, easily escapable into the routes either side. Pretty crimpy, tiny feet and smears, really hot rock by late morning, considerable ooze required. Surprised I got it clean.

- with Grant Johnston
Mixed 18m, 4 Sebastapol Bluffs Good John Pitcairn
Fri 26th Jan 2018
19 Balls

Should have just led it ... not quite as tidy this time, probably overthinking it. At least 3 good nuts available in the runout between bolts, placed a bomber brass offset from a good stance.

- with Grant Johnston
Mixed 18m, 3 Sebastapol Bluffs Good John Pitcairn
Fri 26th Jan 2018
19 Balls

Nice thin sequence at the crux, eases considerably after that.

- with Grant Johnston
Mixed 18m, 3 Sebastapol Bluffs Good John Pitcairn
Fri 26th Jan 2018
16 Twin Cracks

A nice fun crack climb, good gear, not as straightforward as it looks from the ground.

- with Grant Johnston
Trad 20m Sebastapol Bluffs Very Good John Pitcairn
Fri 26th Jan 2018
Thu 25th Jan 2018 - Sebastapol Bluffs
Red Wall
15 Red Arete

Forgot my rock shoes so done in chunky approach shoes which made it a bit more interesting. Nice position on the arete, finished at the Shark Attack top anchors. Note there is a 3rd pitch continuing up the bulge and arete at grade 15.

- with Grant Johnston
1 14 37m lead by Grant Johnston
2 13 36m lead by John Pitcairn
Sport 73m, 16 Sebastapol Bluffs Good John Pitcairn
Thu 25th Jan 2018
Tue 23rd Jan 2018 - Twin Stream
Central Buttress Lower Wall
16 El Nino (El Nino Linkup Central Buttress)

Back for another attempt. P1 quite nervy with sparse gear, then we headed straight up into the hand crack linkup as one 55m pitch. Very nice hand crack at about grade 16, considerable rope drag by the end. At the terrace we contemplated continuing up the El Nino arete, but it was becoming very blowy and route finding a little uncertain, decided not to have an epic with the rope pull from the top. Got one rope stuck on the rap from the terrace anyway, luckily our combined bodyweight freed it before having to reascend on the other. Don't thread your rope though the old maillons.

- with Grant Johnston
1 16 30m lead by Grant Johnston
2 16 55m linkup Central Buttress , lead by John Pitcairn
Mixed 85m, 2 Twin Stream Very Good John Pitcairn
Tue 23rd Jan 2018
17 Central Buttress

Spotty weather. Got as far as the top of the bolts on P2 before it began to rain again. Escaped to the El Nino P1 bolted anchor about 5m left, brought Grant up and waited for Dave on El Nino, then we bailed.

- with Grant Johnston
1 15 20m lead by Grant Johnston
2 17 30m lead by John Pitcairn
Mixed 100m, 8 Twin Stream Very Good John Pitcairn
Mon 22nd Jan 2018
Sun 21st Jan 2018 - Twin Stream
Half Moon Slab
17 Moon Struck

Great crack followed by slightly wandery run out slabbing, the latter not being my comfort zone. Some bloody tough moves for 17.

Mixed 80m, 5 Twin Stream Very Good John Pitcairn
Sun 21st Jan 2018
Mon 8th Jan 2018 - Kawakawa Bay
The Point
18 Soul Train

A sit and a short fall working out the crux. This is really bloody good, only overshadowed by High Hopes right next door. Took gear up but there isn't much if any. A little spicy on the bolt spacing when you are in the thick of it but clean falls and challenging crux moves at the grade. Recommended.

Sport 45m Kawakawa Bay Classic John Pitcairn
Mon 8th Jan 2018
16 High Hopes

Damn this is good. Nice single pitch onsight Steve.

Sport 45m, 14 Kawakawa Bay Classic John Pitcairn
Mon 8th Jan 2018
Sun 7th Jan 2018 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
18 Flake 7

Harder than I remember. Could have protected the lower bit better. Stephen didn't like the crux much. Maybe we were just shit.

Trad 20m Kawakawa Bay Very Good John Pitcairn
Sun 7th Jan 2018
Sun 7th Jan 2018 - Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff The Lower Bluff
23 Reggae Shark

Well, we went looking for Don't Hurt My Kowhai. Obviously we failed to find it. But pitches 1-2 of this go well on gear with a little digging. Clipped the bolt at the P1 crux but otherwise all gear. Pitch 3 is pretty cool. We bailed after pitch 3 because we weren't sure whether the leftward-exit line of bolts through the overhang is DHMK (it isn't, good call).

1 lead by John
2 lead by John
3 lead by Stephen
Sport 60m Kawakawa Bay Good John Pitcairn
Sun 7th Jan 2018
Sat 6th Jan 2018 - Kawakawa Bay
Cracks Wall
16 The Gecko Groove

Walked in with heavy trad packs after lots of rain and wind. Achieved nothing else for the day.

Trad 28m Kawakawa Bay Very Good John Pitcairn
Sat 6th Jan 2018
Sat 9th Dec 2017 - Froggatt Edge
Slug Wall
17 Snarf

The only thing I managed all day due to stomach bug and extreme knackeredness.

- with Angela Hewlett, Tim Swain
Sport 10m, 3 Froggatt Edge Good John Pitcairn
Sat 9th Dec 2017
Sun 3rd Dec 2017 - Sheridan Hills
Chunderosa Buttress
18 Aurum

Hot. Hothothot.

Sport 25m Sheridan Hills Good John Pitcairn
Sun 3rd Dec 2017
18 Hannah Louise

Roger's new shoes day. Makes a good warmup, though the sun was doing its best to fry us too.

Sport 25m, 8 Sheridan Hills Very Good John Pitcairn
Sun 3rd Dec 2017
Wed 1st Nov 2017 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress
14 Mantis

Again? Post-groundfall super Sidness.

- with Sid Lu
Trad 33m Arapiles Good John Pitcairn
Wed 1st Nov 2017
Sun 5th Nov 2017 - Arapiles
Voodoo Area New Image Wall
18 Crooked Mile

Up the chimney a bit then step onto the face, fairly poor RPs until you can get a #3 camalot behind the flake. Sadly I hadn't taken one up. That made the traverse a nervy prospect until a small cam on the far side provided sanity. Feet get progressively worse until you can pull up to the crack system with nice moves and very good gear until the top crux, which will let you know whether you are pumped. A great final route for the trip.

- with John Henry
Trad 25m Arapiles Very Good John Pitcairn
Sun 5th Nov 2017
Sun 5th Nov 2017 - Arapiles
Grotto Wall
15 Boomer

Back for the second pitch, which is easier than the first. Watch out for the pile of rocks behind the top block just waiting to be kicked down the chute.

- with John Henry
1 15 lead by John H
2 15 lead by John P
Trad 42m Arapiles Good John Pitcairn
Sun 5th Nov 2017

Showing 1 - 100 out of 961 ascents.