Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 29th Jun 2019 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Millenium Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Ring Them Bells - with Jack Robertshaw, Jono | 15m, 6 | Average | |||
Always tempting as a warmup, always has a hard balancy start.
|
||||||
Thu 27th Jun 2019 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | ||||||
16 | ★ Baby Driver - with Jack Robertshaw, Atma | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Retrieving anchor.
|
||||||
18 | ★ Star Gazer - with Atma, Jack Robertshaw | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
FInally got up it, with a couple of decent falls on 2nd bolt. A tricky bugger through the lower half, stiff for 18. Stayed over the bolts to the right up high then a very delicate wee step left to meet the top slab of Baby Driver. Really good, will return.
|
||||||
16 | ★ Baby Driver - with Jack Robertshaw, Atma | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Moss down low is navigable enough, fingers got bloody cold though.
|
||||||
Fri 14th Jun 2019 - Frog Pond | ||||||
Bottom of the Hill | ||||||
17 | ★ Ruminator | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Goey start, optional fist jam above, delicate finish. What's not to like?
|
||||||
Fri 14th Jun 2019 - Frog Pond | ||||||
Tangarahu Rock | ||||||
13 | Tanga - with Tim Swain, Colin | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Fun with funky end-on slotted hex. Right wall a bit seepy and slimy.
|
||||||
15 | ★ Bite Me Gently - with Tim Swain, Colin | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Nice. Will take a bit of gear at top to tame the runout, or don't look down.
|
||||||
Thu 13th Jun 2019 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
16 | ★ Bonne Anne - with Tim Swain | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit greasy and nervy at top. Hell of a 16.
|
||||||
18 | ★★★ Terror Incognito - with Tim Swain, Colin | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Took a rest before tackling the headwall.
|
||||||
17 | ★ Blazing Away - with Tim Swain, Colin | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
One sit on the 3rd bolt, a new low point...
|
||||||
16 | ★★ White Christmas - with Tim Swain, Colin | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
The least greasy thing on the wall on a foggy morning.
|
||||||
Thu 9th May 2019 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
Chunderosa Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★ School Bus Route | 35m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nope. 2 long falls from not quite crux bolt 2 on a very stretchy rope. Ow, me arse. Slunk off up the back to get gear off.
|
||||||
17 | ★★ Carpe Diem - with Jack Robertshaw | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Gear retrieval. Flows nicely after slightly awkward start.
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Aurum - with Jack Robertshaw | 25m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Enjoying this more and more, easy exposed arete ramble to strong off balance crux after passing the cave of doom.
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Hannah Louise - with Jack Robertshaw | 30m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Nice for a warmup to ease you into the short crux.
|
||||||
Thu 25th Apr 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 | ★★ Reggae Shark - with Grant Johnston | 50m | ★ Good | |||
Another go at the P1/2 linkup on gear, still not entirely happy, need to spend more time looking at those pockets, but doing those on gear makes it a lot more interesting. P3 is the money if you don't climb 23. Hot rock at the top of that. You can rap down from the top of P2 on a single 60m rope if you don't mind downclimbing the bottom 3m of Dirt Free.
|
||||||
Wed 24th Apr 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
18 | ★ Benny’s Magical Koura Circus - with Grant Johnston | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Short but good, good pro, and clean enough. Balancy mid section makes gear placement a bit delicate, got a tad run out. A fun fight.
|
||||||
14 | ★★ Sunset Ledge - with Grant Johnston | 28m | ★ Good | |||
Might as well...
|
||||||
17 | ★★ For King and Country - with Grant Johnston | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The bottom retrobolt is not too bad apart from the first bolt. Took the cave access chains off, a fall from the first crux would be through those and they are excessive anyway. The crack and corner above is great with a couple of cruxes, but VERY dirty right now, was more or less a ground-up again, will be back to clean it after winter. A must-do when clean.
|
||||||
16 | ★ Shoot Your Gun - with Grant Johnston | 50m | ★ Good | |||
It's getting a bit overgrown now but is a good long adventure requiring gear and rope management, nice lead Grant.
|
||||||
Tue 23rd Apr 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Elephant Buttress Lower tier | ||||||
23 | ★★ Flight Of The Pachyderm - with Grant Johnston | 40m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Had a go on Donovan's draws. Nice 17-ish slabbing until the first overhang, then shut down trying to get past that. Well protected to work the overhang. Beyond me right now.
|
||||||
15 | The Nose - with Grant Johnston | 30m, 9 | Average | |||
Easy sport clip-up, not my thing.
|
||||||
16 | Claim Jumper - with Grant Johnston | 28m | ★ Good | |||
It looks a bit shit but there is some decent climbing here, and it's a decent length. The bottom crack is a bit seepy after rain which makes for an underwhelming start, but things improve from there. Not the cleanest thing around but workable. Loose flake out right around halfway.
|
||||||
Thu 18th Apr 2019 - Frog Pond | ||||||
Tangarahu Rock | ||||||
17 | ★ Fugly | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
Guide claims 16 which is definitely a sandbag, it's hardly easier than Kereru. Another tricky start, small sharp holds, tempting arete above.
|
||||||
18 | ★ Flight of the Kereru | 8m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Buggered up the tricksy wee start, desperate clip then immediate sit. Top is good.
|
||||||
18 | ★ Flight of the Kereru | 8m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
After Gareth's tall-man ascent. Better footwork on the start allows a good stance to high jug before clipping. Quite nice, I like it. 2nd bolt is potential groundfall.
|
||||||
15 | ★ Bite Me Gently | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Ok, not worth 2 stars. Bit of a sun trap this side.
|
||||||
13 | Tanga | 8m | ★ Good | |||
After getting lost on the way in. Nice easy trad lead, got some brand new totems in it. You'll want a long sling for the anchors.
|
||||||
Sun 7th Apr 2019 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
17 | ★★ Girls, Girls, Girls - with Tim Swain | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Sucks you left at the start. Decent enough.
|
||||||
18 | ★ Haul Away - with Tim Swain | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
The pocket-bingo at the top-out is a bit typically tedious.
|
||||||
16 | ★★ Strange New Worlds - with Tim Swain | 23m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Probably the pick of the litter today.
|
||||||
17 | ★ Green Spot - with Tim Swain | 16m, 5 | Average | |||
Better than Facetious ... just.
|
||||||
16 | ★ Facetious - with Tim Swain | 14m, 4 | Average | |||
Sat 30th Mar 2019 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Wall of Fate | ||||||
17 |
★ Finger of Fate
- with
Gareth Hall
2
16
8m
lead by
Gareth Hall
| 20m, 2 | Average | |||
First pitch is OK, though expect to build a trad anchor. Followed Gareth's P2 caver lead, a pretty hideous and strenous wide thrutch fest. Maybe it's better to go out and layback the left edge of the column?
|
||||||
Sat 30th Mar 2019 - Waipapa | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Heavenly Crack | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Faces getting a bit slimy either side after rain but the crack interior is clean, brushed a few face footholds. Made it to the ledge after a sit on a #4, realised I needed more #3s for the top, couldn't fidget a decent hex in, backed off and retreated from the Cafe Hands anchor. Seems pretty good, will return with more gear.
|
||||||
Sun 24th Mar 2019 - Pakeho | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
17 | ★ Trog | 25m, 10 | Average | |||
Grunty heave-ho at the start, then a bit dull. May have wandered too far right at the top, found getting back to the anchor tricky.
|
||||||
16 | ★ Piglet | 21m, 10 | Average | |||
Done properly this time, through the right end of the roof. Quite fun, but that's the only worthwhile move on it.
|
||||||
17 | ★ Hunny on my Paws | 22m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mostly stayed off the slab and pootled around on the overlap which is fun, then took the left hand finish up the small groove. The top section is really good and may require a little bit of thinking in more than one spot. Claiming onsight for the alternate bottom approach and onsighted top. Not exactly a warmup.
|
||||||
Fri 22nd Feb 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 | ★ Ducky Fuzz - with Gareth Hall | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Not bad. Don't know why I found the start so hard last attempt.
|
||||||
16 | Fuzzy Duck - with Gareth Hall | 18m, 9 | Average | |||
It's definitely not 15 Martyn. Spent a fair bit of time with a nut tool and stick levering off the big loose death flake near the bottom.
|
||||||
Thu 21st Feb 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
★★ Mr Creosote - with Gareth Hall | 8m | ★ Good | ||||
A very tight squeeze indeed, after an epic FA by Gareth. Had to park my helmet, didn't quite need to unbuckle my harness, thrutched out the top in light rain. Won't forget this for a while.
|
||||||
16 | ★★★ High Hopes - with Gareth Hall | 45m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Gareth's compulsory High Hopes lead, one long pitch.
|
||||||
Wed 20th Feb 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ The Crack Whore Next Door - with Gareth Hall | 12m | Average | |||
Checking out Gareth's gear.
|
||||||
Wed 20th Feb 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Upper Bluff | ||||||
18 |
★★ Sex Panther
- with
Gareth Hall
1
18
20m
lead by
Gareth Hall
| 40m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great fun and a spectacular position to finish. A bit of lichen after the first belay makes things feel a bit precarious, but the rest of the pitch is clean. Getting dark, forgot to clean it on rap, sorry.
|
||||||
Wed 20th Feb 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 | ★ Kykkeliky - with Gareth Hall | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Has a lot of character. The kowhai tree has grown a lot in just a few weeks.
|
||||||
17 | ★★ Reggae Shark - with Gareth Hall | 50m | ★ Good | |||
Gareth ran P1-2 together, P3 is probably the winner here. Looked speculatively at P4 but getting too hot.
|
||||||
16 | ★ Jug Addiction | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Goes on gear, with a couple of runouts. Probably could have hunted around and found more.
|
||||||
Tue 29th Jan 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ The Crack Head Next Door (The Crack Whore Next Door) | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Eating my own dog food. With the block gone and the slab cleaned you can bridge almost all the way to the top, but at some point you do have to commit. Climbed on 4 hexes and 2 nuts. Not bad.
|
||||||
15 | ★ The Crack Head Next Door (The Crack Whore Next Door) - with Angela Hewlett | 12m | Average | |||
Up my fixed rope on a GriGri after Angela's reality-check lead. Decided the big block at top had to go, and go it did with some digging and a crowbar. Yowza. Big mess, more cleaning.
|
||||||
Mon 28th Jan 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Rohans Little Sister | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Up for another cleaning session on The Crack Whore Next Door. Guess it does deserve a star.
|
||||||
Mon 28th Jan 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
18 |
★★ Guardians of the Galaxy
- with
Gareth
2
18
15m
lead by
Gareth
4
18
13m
lead by
Gareth
| 60m, 28 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really very good, nicely clean, consistent difficulty and the sloping features keep you thinking all the way. Good footwork needed. Ran out of draws and had to belay 8m short of the top of P2 (duh). It's let down only by the awkward hand line traverse and the loose belay ledge that leads to, otherwise I'd almost say 3 stars. Gareth took a plummet at the start pf P4, just kept him off the ledge, but this is why you don't want to link 3-4.
|
||||||
Sun 27th Jan 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
21 | ★ Hugs Not Drugs - with Angela Hewlett | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Attempting to keep it very pure, straight up, no drifting or reaching for jugs left or right. Took a long fall, then a couple of shorter ones. The top crux is maybe just barely 22 done this way. A bit off my best game.
|
||||||
Sun 27th Jan 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Elephant Buttress Upper tier | ||||||
17 | ★★ Elephant's Revenge | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really enjoyed this, worth going up there for. The offwidth start is the crux, funky moves and can be tamed a bit by a high fist jam to pull up at the top. Plenty of gear is available up the top section offwidth layback and above. It's all pretty clean too. Big gear - take at least doubles of #4 cams, at least one #5.
|
||||||
Sun 27th Jan 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Elephant Buttress Middle tier | ||||||
10 | Hooptedoodle Slab | 7m | Don't Bother | |||
An exploratory mission. You wouldn't think a grade 10 slab could be scary, but it's covered in lichen and loose bits of rock and there is pretty much no worthwhile gear. Don't think Rob was very happy on lead. Maybe an option if it was clean, but you're probably a lot better off climbing Irrelephant (the flaring 15) to gain the upper tier.
|
||||||
Sun 27th Jan 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Elephant Buttress Lower tier | ||||||
17 16 | ★ Nogasang | 30m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
It's more like 17, and there is a fair bit of lichen regrowth, but it's a cool slabby lead with some nervy moments.
|
||||||
Sat 26th Jan 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
16 | ★★ Super Natural | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A little more cleaning on lead. The crux crack is starting to stay more open, but the face is going to take a while, and the lichenous bottom will be last.
|
||||||
14 | ★★ Sunset Ledge | 28m | ★ Good | |||
Checking out Gareth's gear. He'll do.
|
||||||
14 | ★★ Sunset Ledge | 28m | ★ Good | |||
A nice ramble. Cleaned on abseil, left 4 bomber pieces in for Gareth's freshman trad lead.
|
||||||
Thu 10th Jan 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ The Gecko Groove | 28m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Last climb before leaving, on a somewhat random gear assortment. Slung the block, great fun jamming most of the way, especially fist jamming the top.
|
||||||
Wed 9th Jan 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Rohans Little Sister | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
Up for another round of cleaning on Crack Whore.
|
||||||
17 18 | ★★ Outboard Crack - with Tim Swain | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really good, maybe a little stiff for the grade. Laybacking and a touch of jamming with a couple of cruxes. Scored some booty out of Flakes 7 on the way down.
|
||||||
14 | Jabba the Hut - with Tim Swain | 15m | Average | |||
Following Rob and Tim. Cleaner now than I've ever seen it. The start is the crux, 14 is a bit of a sandbag.
|
||||||
Wed 9th Jan 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
20 |
★★★ After the Sunset
- with
Tim Swain
| 120m, 42 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty good, nicely long, took 3 hours to climb. Perhaps spoiled a bit by the hand line section. P1 is quite delicate, P3 traverse is nice, P4 is soft unless you are short, P5 is great and the crux would make a terrific photo, lots of air under you. Screwed up right at the end and sketchily traversed left to the top of what is probably Fraggle Rock because I couldn't see the anchor above the ledge. Walked off up and along the ridge and back to camp by noon.
|
||||||
Tue 8th Jan 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
19 | ★★ Pinch and a Punch - with Tim Swain | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Pumpy! A hard start (unless you traverse in left?) and it doesn't let up. Had a sit and shake out before the crux, knew I wouldn't make it. Fought through it from there successfully, holds are sharpish. Will return for another go.
|
||||||
17 | ★ Pimple - with Tim Swain | 15m | Average | |||
Better than average but perhaps not worth a star.
|
||||||
Mon 7th Jan 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
19 |
★★ Psychedelic Freeway (Psychedelic Freeway linkup Captain Caveman)
- with
Tim Swain
| 60m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pitch 2 feels outrageous, steep and exposed with good gear and mentally a lot harder than Caveman P3. Worth the effort.
|
||||||
Mon 7th Jan 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
16 | ★★ Super Natural - with Tim Swain | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbs a bit easier after last month's clean, did a bit more on the way down, still a lot of lichen in bottom section. Will revisit, it's a great route.
|
||||||
Sun 6th Jan 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Critters Corner - with Tim Swain | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Skipped the retrobolts, it's a long way to that first corner and tiny gear but the unprotected start slab felt more assured this time. A very nervy but rewarding lead, though there is now a suspect block about halfway up the corner. Ball nuts were helpful to backup the gear around that.
|
||||||
17 | FA ★ The Crack Whore Next Door - with Tim Swain | 12m | Average | |||
Climbed ground-up onsight, then cleaned somewhat, loose block in crack removed, then climbed again. Might get easier with more cleaning. Be wary of the possibly loose large block on the left at the top.
|
||||||
17 | ★ The Slot Machine - with Tim Swain | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Tim led, Rob seconded. You might want tape.
|
||||||
17 16 | ★★ Blindmans Bluff - with Tim Swain | 28m | ★ Good | |||
Did the direct start thin crack which is harder. The crux is reminiscent of Bomb Arete.
|
||||||
Sat 5th Jan 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Flake 7 | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very classy line with a tricky but well protected grade 19 crux. The booty nut from last visit went nicely back in the same spot it came from. Good clean second from Rob.
|
||||||
Sat 5th Jan 2019 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 | ★ Kykkeliky - with Tim Swain | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The good start protects well on fist sized gear, the good end on finger-sized, nothing for 10m in the middle but that's an easy ramble. A lot of bad helicopter action going on below.
|
||||||
16 | ★ Sugar Rush - with Tim Swain | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
Fairly dull. You can jam the start.
|
||||||
Sun 30th Dec 2018 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Rohans Arete | 28m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Without the drizzle this time, managed to remember my onsight attempt beta and nailed it, well pleased. A constant series of cruxes and no-hands rests in a great position, it's an excellent sport route that I'd do again.
|
||||||
Sun 30th Dec 2018 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
21 | ★ Hugs Not Drugs - with Grant Johnston | 20m | ★ Good | |||
A quick repeat after some discussion whether the grade is soft. If you stick to the line of bolts and don't divert left into Sundowning or reach out to the jugs 1m right of the crux higher up, there may be one or two moves at 21-22 there. That really makes it an eliminate...
|
||||||
17 | ★ Dont Hurt my Kowhai Linkup Iboga - with Grant Johnston | 55m, 14 | ★ Good | |||
An adventure, AKA "Awesome Mixed Route Vol 1" or "Honey, Ibogaed My Kowhai". The start of DHMK is dirty to the point where the crack is almost hidden. Standing on lichen while digging out a crack ain't awesome. The second pitch (Iboga) looks great and is a terrific intimidating lead, you'll want at least doubles of #2 and #3 cams (which I was well short of), but is let down by some suspect sandy rock at the initial traverse and has a dirty loose top-out. We accidentally sent a couple of sizeable missiles down toward the base of Predator. Awesome yes, but a little dangerous to others. The hand line back to DHMK is a 10m pitch in itself (stay on belay) with dirt underfoot at start and finish, which further detracts (and it's shared with Guardians of the Galaxy). The top pitch of DHMK is much easier, well protected, airy and very fun for 5m at the top while sneaking out the roof.
|
||||||
Sat 22nd Dec 2018 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
Chunderosa Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★ Hannah Louise | 30m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Too easy in the long lower section, good crux, awkward at the anchor.
|
||||||
Sat 22nd Dec 2018 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
Western Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Chevre | 35m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I'd forgotten about the crux. This is great! Removed a couple of bail maillons from it, there is a short chain anchor just right for exactly that purpose.
|
||||||
Sat 10th Nov 2018 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Millenium Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Sun Dried Tomatoes | 15m, 5 | ||||
Getting warm and greasy. Better attempt than last, fewer sits, some control, maybe starting to form some memory.
|
||||||
18 | ★★★ Millennium Madness (Millenium Madness) | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good clean lead, more finger size cams would be useful. Got in the way of the pair top roping climbs to the right (sorry).
|
||||||
Sat 10th Nov 2018 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | ||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit | 20m, 10 | ||||
Not the best choice for first route of the day. Interesting but considerably harder than 18 start, sat a couple of times, eventually got to the crack fingerlocks, couldn't pull up above to get my feet onto the slab before 3rd bolt. Downclimbed and cleaned. Might consider a ball nut next time.
|
||||||
Mon 5th Nov 2018 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Sunset Boulevard - with Angela Hewlett | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A well rounded route that packs a lot in - grunty undercling bridging and laybacking start, a stretch of flake jamming and smearing, arete and face moves to finish. There is sufficient gear up top if you have eyes to see it.
|
||||||
16 | ★★ Blindmans Bluff - with Angela Hewlett | 28m | ★ Good | |||
After Angela's step-up lead. Fun monkey move at crux, good jamming above, retrieved the wiggled-in yellow totem and very overcammed 0.75.
|
||||||
Sun 4th Nov 2018 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
14 | ★ Dancing on Rainbows - with Angela Hewlett | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Wind down part 2: two pink tricams, red and yellow totem basics, thread, bomber #1 C4.
|
||||||
13 | ★ Peach Teats - with Angela Hewlett | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
Wind down part 1: all five tricams and a red totem basic. Much more fun on gear. Then dropped the rope and had to scramble off the back in shame.
|
||||||
Sun 4th Nov 2018 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
18 | ★★ Road Tripping - with Angela Hewlett | 48m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice long slabby route, good moves, great exposure on the arete. Recommended.
|
||||||
16 | ★★ Super Natural - with Angela Hewlett | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very dirty and now annoyingly retro bolted for the lower slab section. Did a little scraping of footholds on lead, tackled the crux above the world's dodgiest looking tricam, scraped out the crux crack on descent (it takes a very sane #5 brass offset). Needs a good scrub. Still really good, classic if cleaner.
|
||||||
14 | ★★ Sunset Ledge - with Angela Hewlett | 28m | ★ Good | |||
Quite dirty, gave it a scrape out and garden on descent, looks much better now.
|
||||||
Sat 3rd Nov 2018 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 | ★ Ducky Fuzz (Unknown) | 15m | ||||
We were looking for Sweet 16s. This isn't one. Couldn't get past the first bolt.
|
||||||
24 | ★ Rumble in the Jungle | 12m, 5 | ||||
An attempt at Predator but immediately got suckered off route, clipped the first bolt of this, tried to go up, fell off and lowered. Should have read the guide...
|
||||||
Sat 3rd Nov 2018 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Rohans Little Sister - with Angela Hewlett | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
One ok smear sequence. Retrieving Angela's draws of shame ;-)
|
||||||
Sat 3rd Nov 2018 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
19 | ★★ Dirty Dancing - with Angela Hewlett | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Fun monkey dancing on good pockets out to the arete, crux getting onto the slab above.
|
||||||
16 | Sweet 16s Not M16s - with Angela Hewlett | 20m, 9 | Don't Bother | |||
Just what the world needs, more dull easy sport routes.
|
||||||
17 |
★★ Jugzilla (Jugzilla P1)
- with
Angela Hewlett
| 30m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
A 2m sling might help manage the rope drag induced by the shared bolting at the top.
|
||||||
Sat 3rd Nov 2018 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Rohans Arete | 28m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
So so close to onsight, but light rain hit around halfway, foot slipped off at the crux, dammit. A quick regroup, got the move and greased up the rapidly slickening remainder. Excellent moves and position. Priority revisit needed.
|
||||||
20 | ★★ Great Scott - with Angela Hewlett | 27m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Much better friction than last visit, happy. A fairly thin crux, another tricksy spot nearer the top.
|
||||||
16 | ★★ The Gecko Groove - with Angela Hewlett | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Dodgy forecast but not quite raining yet ...
|
||||||
Fri 2nd Nov 2018 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
21 | ★ Hugs Not Drugs | 20m | ★ Good | |||
First 22 onsight, maybe it's a little soft? Fun climbing, just enough features to keep it all together.
|
||||||
20 | ★ Sundowning Syndrome - with Angela Hewlett | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Enjoyable, but bolting seems a tad runout. Not sure how it is supposed to finish, left to top bolt of Jug Addiction, or right into top of Hugs not Drugs? Straight up over the bulge would be harder than 20 for sure.
|