Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 6th Apr 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
18 | ★ Ground Up Ethics | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
TRS. Getting hot, tired, flubbed it. Couple of sits.
|
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19 Easy | ★★ Wild Country Express | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
17 | ★★ Virgin On Easy | 23m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
18 | ★★ Game Over | 23m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★★ Space, The Final Frontier | 23m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
20 Easy | ★★ Klingons | 23m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
17 | ★★ Girls, Girls, Girls | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ Out With The Boys | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Pumpy warmup.
|
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Waipapa | ||||||
Pipeline Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ The Grim Reaper - with Jonno Rau | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Mostly great 16 ish fist/hand jamming until you hit the beefy crux, then back to easier stuff above. Well protected. Jenga blocks above are solid, stuff 1m left of the anchor probably isn't.
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | ||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Jonno Rau | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
The left is indeed less awkward starting the slab. But most of the fun is below that.
|
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Millenium Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Sun Dried Tomatoes - with Jonno Rau | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Totally forgotten everything. Started in stiff shoes, sat and switched, hauled up chalk. Bit of a shitshow.
|
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17 | ★ Ring Them Bells - with Jonno Rau | 15m, 6 | Average | |||
Been a while. Prob too far left at 1st bolt.
|
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Sun 17th Mar 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
20 Easy | ★★ Klingons | 23m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Wasn't going to but did. Just another afternoon at the gym.
|
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18 | ★ Groove Thang | 12m, 3 | Average | |||
17 Hard | ★ Career Opportunities | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Harder than it looks.
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Exponential Decay | 13m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★★ Space, The Final Frontier | 23m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
17 | ★★ Girls, Girls, Girls | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
19 | ★★ Exponential Decay | 13m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Ow tweaky shoulder.
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Game Over | 23m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
20 Easy | ★★ Klingons | 23m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Lap #40 apparently.
|
||||||
18 | ★ Ground Up Ethics | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
19 Easy | ★★ Wild Country Express | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
19 | ★★ Up N Away - with Gareth | 10m | Average | |||
A bit bloody sharp.
|
||||||
20 Easy | ★★ Klingons - with Gareth | 23m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not led it for a while now.
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Game Over - with Gareth | 23m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Now with more pull.
|
||||||
18 | ★ Haul Away | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
19 Easy | ★ Built For Comfort | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
17 | ★★ Virgin On Easy | 23m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
17 | ★★ Girls, Girls, Girls | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
The pull cord fairy pays a visit. Almost all done.
|
||||||
Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
18 | ★★ Space, The Final Frontier | 23m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
20 Easy | ★★ Klingons | 23m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★★ Exponential Decay | 13m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Replacing pull cord on route to left. Sketchy anchor traverse happened.
|
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18 | ★ Groove Thang | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Replacing pull cord on route to right.
|
||||||
Tue 6th Feb 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Upper Bluff | ||||||
18 Hard | The Sufferer and the Witness - with Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 37m, 3 | Average | |||
Aidan's idea, quite pleased I wasn't leading it, dirty as and very very chossy to the left. Some was sent down to terrify the belayer, much remains up there. Got harness gear well stuck in a small manuka and came off, removed it. Crux is cleanish, very balancy and possibly harder than 18. P2 anchor is a pair of surprise carrots. One strand of access hand line is getting a bit core shot. Memorable in the wrong way. Distracted ourselves with more track fairy work down below.
|
||||||
Mon 5th Feb 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 | ★ Kykkeliky - with Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Stuffed myself in too far at the start. The kowhai is an arse and really needs a prune. Found even more gear through the "run out" cave section. Went and looked at the terrifying upper bluff rockfall.
|
||||||
20 ~19 | ★ Sundowning Syndrome - with Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 20m, 5 | Average | |||
A bit squeezed at the top.
|
||||||
17 Hard | ★★ Iboga - with Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 30m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had led before as a DHMK linkup. Bloody great jamming and bridging. Only let down by a sandy unprotected traverse in and loose topout. Started up GOTG to avoid the grot, long sling on the DHMK anchor and the bolt before it. We sent a few missiles down. Fixed up the core shot GOTG hand line then rapped down that.
|
||||||
Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
18 Hard | ★ Natural Selection | 26m | ★ Good | |||
Rope soloed on a shunt and backup knots after an epic hot cleaning session. Still a bit gritty yet, needs some rain. Gonna be good to lead, might be 19.
|
||||||
18 | ★ Human Intervention - with Aidan Sarginson | 28m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Up for a 3-fairy all day cleaning session on this, Natural Selection and Safety In Numbers. Much cleaner now.
|
||||||
Sat 3rd Feb 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Yacht Club | ||||||
19 | ★ Don’t Be A Prick, Clean Your Tick - with Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Bloody high 1st bolt preclipped, but the climbing to it is easy enough. Fluffed the crux trying to use Aidan's beta, eventually found something better for me. Must come back for this.
|
||||||
18 | King Of The World - with Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 23m, 5 | Average | |||
Draws on. Dodging showers. Probably went a little far left at the crux, but that's what squeeze routes get you.
|
||||||
Fri 2nd Feb 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
20 Hard | ★★ Great Scott - with Aidan Sarginson | 27m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Warmup? Across to the Critters anchor for a 1.5 hour effort getting the big midway flake off that and raining big chunks down. Aidan got the draws off just before rain arrived.
|
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Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Waipapa | ||||||
Pipeline Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ The Grim Reaper - with Andy Baird | 18m | ||||
ACAT working bee. Dogged/aided while dirty, then scrubbed clean. Didn't have the energy or will to re climb it, must return. Crux will be tricky.
|
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Thu 4th Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Skink Prince (of Bel Air) - with Gareth, Justin Wimmer | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Thumb press popped off, rats. Pretty green down low, could use a scrub later in summer.
|
||||||
22 | ★★★ Rohans Arete - with Gareth, Justin Wimmer | 28m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Back in the evening, rock still a bit warm. All going well then cocked up the 2nd crux and paid the tree a visit. Couldn't crunch up enough to get toe on the rock over, had to go on a heel. Warming up first might have helped.
|
||||||
16 ~17 | ★★ Blindmans Bluff - with Gareth | 28m | ★ Good | |||
Thin crack only at start. Great jamming up top. Borrowed Justin's black totem, perfect size for shattered bit.
|
||||||
20 Hard | ★★ Great Scott - with Justin Wimmer, Gareth | 27m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
18 | ★ Critters Corner - with Justin Wimmer | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Thanks to Aidan for the clean! The closest thing to quarry climbing you'll get here. The big midway flake is now starting to hinge outward at its midpoint, it needs to be removed soon.
|
||||||
Wed 3rd Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
19 Hard | ★★ The Sweet and the Savage - with Gareth | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Back to get it, a hell of a fight. Suckers you by starting easy then getting slowly harder until you're packed into a strenuous jam/undercling with very high feet out at the crux. The step around/down (maybe there is another option here) to the vertical crack needed a lot of willpower, then took an age to protect it while wrecked. The "trad belay" seems dodgy due to a hollow sounding block and limited options, kept going to anchors with solid rope drag, belayed with poor comms. Harder than Hecklers I reckon, need more opinions.
|
||||||
20 | ★ Sunday School - with Gareth | 17m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Straightforward enough once you burn it into non-volatile memory.
|
||||||
20 | ★ Sunday School - with Gareth | 17m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Took a long time and a couple of takes to find the right sequence after 3rd bolt.
|
||||||
Tue 2nd Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Elephant Buttress Upper tier | ||||||
17 | ★★ Elephant's Revenge - with Gareth | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Towed a #5 up here but it's only really useful to protect the wide start until you get a good high hex. A few jamming/offwidth skills will go a long way. Stays fairly clean, and there's a bolted anchor.
|
||||||
Tue 2nd Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Elephant Buttress Middle tier | ||||||
15 Hard | Irrelephant - with Gareth | 8m | Average | |||
Continuing the dirty 'ol trad research project. Harder than it looks. Didn't hate it.
|
||||||
Tue 2nd Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Elephant Buttress Lower tier | ||||||
17 Hard | ★ Pet Shop Shark Attack 1981 - with Gareth | 30m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rather good. Headed right after first bolt, some sketch getting back on line. Nose bolts a bit tempting. Surprisingly clean for a mixed route.
|
||||||
Thu 28th Dec 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
18 | ★ Benny’s Magical Koura Circus - with Jonno Rau, Gareth | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Nice line, could use a brush.
|
||||||
17 | ★★ Boat Ramp Crack - with Jonno Rau, Gareth | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Out here for urgent track safety work. Great long route, let down by a dirty top third (take a brush). Lowered Jonno then brought G up, time flew by.
|
||||||
Wed 27th Dec 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
22 | ★★ Predator - with Jonno Rau, Gareth | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
After some evening Jugzilla hand-line fixing. Haha, nope, fell or sat on each of the first 4 bolts. Maybe should have warmed up. Lengthy top rope session followed.
|
||||||
Wed 27th Dec 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Sneakin' In The Backdoor - with Jonno Rau, Gareth | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★★ Outboard Crack - with Jonno Rau, Gareth | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Snuck in before the sun started cooking the wall.
|
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Sun 17th Dec 2023 - Tukino | ||||||
Mangatoetoenui Gorge Bowie Rickman Slabs | ||||||
17 | ★★ Heroes - with Jonno Rau | 35m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Think Jonno strayed too far right, missed the spike, exited right instead of left. Getting hot and blowy, time to leave. Keen to return and lead it.
|
||||||
18 | ★★★ Just For One Day - with Jonno Rau | 35m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Terrific climbing, not too run out and there's no doubt gear I missed. Nervy moment after first bolt when I pulled a sizeable sharp flake off while starting the crux. Pockets full of wind-blown sand so missed those for cams, will remember a brush next time. Big overhanging chockstones at top a bit alarming. Must do again!
|
||||||
17 | ★★★ Potions Master - with Jonno Rau | 35m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice lead from Jonno. Great route, reminiscent of Arapiles watchtower slabbing. Left the anchor in place for convenience.
|
||||||
14 | Shamed - with Jonno Rau | 25m, 1 | Average | |||
Arrived with much less gear today but too few draws, improvised an extra couple. Think we climbed this, but didn't see a bolt so probably veered right and finished closer to Gruber. Rapped off a bollard.
|
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Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Tukino | ||||||
Mangatoetoenui Gorge Rehab Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ Slingky Malinky - with Jonno Rau | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Entirely on 5 slings as suggested. Easy climbing and good stances but you might want a bit more gear than that.
|
||||||
16 | ★ Sweet Sixteen - with Jonno Rau | 20m, 4 | Average | |||
Trickyish start. Didn't float my boat.
|
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16 Easy | ★ Going Straight - with Jonno Rau | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Fun wee overlap. A bit mossy and dusty in the cracks, did a bit of scraping but mostly found alternate gear.
|
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15 | ★★ Resolution - with Jonno Rau | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really pleasant route, good gear. Walked 30km to get here.
|
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Sun 10th Dec 2023 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
Chunderosa Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★★ Galapagos - with Jonno Rau | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sooked out and sat after getting crossed up at a nice sharp pocket. A little blood. Slung the horn for pro, then noticed there is now a top bolt out to the right. Odd position.
|
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18 Easy | ★★ Hannah Louise - with Jonno Rau | 30m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
17 | ★★ Carpe Diem - with Jonno Rau | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 23rd Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
16 Easy | ★★ The Gecko Groove - with Gareth | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Attempting to get a couple more in before dark. Body said please stop.
|
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Mon 23rd Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
19 | ★★ Bitten By A Cobra - with Gareth | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A bit of dirt in the crack dogleg. Put a nut in the jam there, had to remove it and place a lower cam. Skipped all the top bolts, finished to Korimako anchor.
|
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17 | ★★ Manbearpig - with Gareth | 15m | ★ Good | |||
The Angela move for the win. Don't stuff yourself in.
|
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16 | ★ Alice In Wonderland - with Gareth | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Gear within half a metre of every bolt.
|
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17 | ★★ The Mad Hatter - with Gareth | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Loose bolt tightening. Horrified at how much more extensive the trampled earth is and the extra tracks coming in. Unsustainable.
|
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Sun 22nd Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
18 | ★★ Road Tripping - with Gareth | 48m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Better than High Hopes. Could use a clean but not too bad, maybe 18 as is. Nice view of parties on cruxes of After The Sunset and The Odyssey.
|
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16 | ★★ Super Natural - with Gareth | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I still bloody love this even after a visit to Arapiles. Still clean enough. Scrape the thin crack out a little for gear at the crux.
|
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Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
16 |
★ Dont Hurt my Kowhai P2
- with
Gareth
2
20
lead by
John Pitcairn
Bloody great value for 16. Only took nuts, a few cams wouldn't hurt. Excellent finish and a great way to avoid a shambles on GOTG. | 20m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
18 | ★★ Guardians of the Galaxy P1-2 - with Gareth | 35m, 28 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Finally ... some Euro twatbag decided it was OK to throw their rope down without asking when G reached the anchor, rap past me seconding and then start to pull the ropes. If you don't like being sworn at don't be such a massive dickhead. And pad your bloody hammock cord.
|
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19 | ★★ Dirty Dancing - with Gareth | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Made a hash of the pull onto the slab. Some kind of weird heel scum.
|
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17 | ★ Ducky Fuzz - with Gareth | 15m | Average | |||
Waiting for 2 parties in the queue ahead of us on Guardians. Tricky start.
|
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Fri 20th Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
20 Hard | ★★ Great Scott - with Gareth | 27m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Side pull flake still present.
|
||||||
17 Hard | ★★ Sunset Boulevard - with Gareth | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Getting a tad lichenous through the middle crack. Prob 18 in its current state.
|
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Fri 20th Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
20 ~19 | ★ Sundowning Syndrome - with Gareth | 20m, 5 | Average | |||
I think it's 19.
|
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16 | ★ Jug Addiction - with Gareth | 20m, 8 | Average | |||
After a morning spent accessing and removing the loose block on Sex Panther.
|
||||||
Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Golden Fleece - with Loren, Kate | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A short weather window on a drizzly day, route greasy with the odd inconvenient puddle. Spaced the gear a bit, did some kind of neato side pull high step palm off thing at high crux. 2 hours later followed this with a very greasy solo up and down behind Moby Dick to retrieve the totem I left in the belay. Trip done.
|
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Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Area Below Tiptoe Ridge | ||||||
5 | ★★ Introductory Route | 140m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Back still not keen on a loaded harness, a bit bored, so ... think I traversed a bit too high, immediately under roof. Select guide topo and description differ.
|
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Fri 13th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area | ||||||
5 | ★★★ Tiptoe Ridge | 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
No partner, back not happy, went looking for my missing offset. Not there.
|
||||||
Tue 10th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Sideshow - with AJ | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
All went pretty well, spaced the gear out a bit but would be clean falls. Technical footwork between good finger locks in general. Stepped left to arete rest at top and thought this can't be it, stepped back right and seems I took direct finish. 19 for that but standard finish would make it 18 I think. We are done. Back to camp, took a pratfall in slippery jandals with back landing across tree root. Rest day now please, maybe 2.
|
||||||
18 Hard | ★★★ Entertainer - with AJ | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Quite the onsight fight for AJ. An epic 2 minute bout of swearing and gibbering under the roof could only be answered by "roger that". The finish through the bulge was taken.
|
||||||
15 R | ★ The Joker - with AJ | 25m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Enjoyable warmup with some thoughtful moves. Why the R rating? There might be gear near the bolt but it might be shit. Both a bit wrecked but last day for AJ.
|
||||||
Mon 9th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
19 | ★★ Acapulco Gold - with AJ | 10m | ★ Good | |||
I just wanted to lie down in camp. Valiant attempt by AJ with a few falls, attentive belaying required. Surprised to get a clean second.
|
||||||
Mon 9th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area | ||||||
14 |
★ The Green Singer
- with
AJ
1
14
45m
lead by
AJ
Hefty pull on then quite engaging.
2
12
45m
lead by
John Pitcairn
Went right early at the slot and climbed the orange side wall, which is good, more exposed, but watch the rock here and there. Think I left a black DMM offset in the belay.
3
12
20m
lead by
AJ
AJ attempted to go direct which looks neat but gear not heartening. Better pro out right. | 130m | Average | |||
Getting a bit wrecked, need a cruise. P1-2 good, P3-4 not so much. Disturbed a brown snake just a little off the trail on way up. Highlight was watching the Dunedinites with 2 very young daughters go up Tiptoe Ridge. Girls, you rock!
|
||||||
Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★★ Electric Warrior - with AJ | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
So so close. Got the bottom crux well enough with good gear, through the much cruisier middle, forgot my own beta and fell off the finger lock up top. Damn, textbook fail. Will come back. Gear spoilers: black alien protects the start move up to the ledge, the rest just wants lots of nuts, with 0.4 cam before finger crack and 0.5 or 0.75 for the awkward top bit. 120 sling for the big thread midway.
|
||||||
20 | ★★ Electric Warrior - with AJ | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Time to up the game. A top rope run to check out the gear. Came off at the low crux a couple of times, decided to lead it.
|
||||||
17 | ★★★ Mari - with AJ | 35m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Warmup. Belayed from bottom of corner. Easy jamming over all too quickly, then some monkey business getting gear out under the roof. When did the rap chains go in? And why?
|
||||||
Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
16 |
★★★ Brolga
- with
AJ
1
15
30
lead by
John Pitcairn
Pleasant wandering slabbing on doubles to access more gear placements.
2
16
30
lead by
AJ
More gear than P1, though not quite where you most want it. AJ used my tiny original WC zero 3 for the crux off the belay. Seemed really good. | 90m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Needed something completely different after the Hyaena shitshow...
|
||||||
Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
18 ~20 | ★★ Hyaena — 2 attempts - with AJ | 16m | ||||
An epic 4 hour session with 2 lead attempts from me. All that can be said is I got up the thing. Very very hard, pumpy, gear in the way, gibbering, downclimbs, falls, sits, sulking, go for it and pray, swearing, utter shellshock. The gear is fine. Nothing left in the tank. Tom, you are a master sandbagger.
|
||||||
Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area | ||||||
18 ~17 | ★★ Daily Planet - with AJ | 20m | Average | |||
A bit soft and not terribly memorable.
|