Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 3rd Dec 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau The Nest Main Area | ||||||
17 | ★★ Araplactic | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Still beating the rain with Matt. Jugalicious.
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16 | ★ Weasel Words | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Finally paid a climbing visit. Stitches didn't rip. Beat the rain with Matt
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Sun 3rd Dec 2023 - Coalcliff | ||||||
The Post Office | ||||||
18 | ★ Return to Sender | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
Plenty of options. Roof is not worth the effort.
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17 | ★ Postman Pat | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Burly from go to wo. Not the warmup.
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Sat 21st Oct 2023 - The Bluffs | ||||||
Right Bluff High Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Damsel in Distress | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pumpy top, still a bit iffy down low as a sport route.
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20 | Mullet Dreaming | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Leg breaker as a sport route, maybe cams will make it sane? Went right past last bolt up obvious, preferred sidepulls to end up in DiD. Loved the super delicate pebble pinches, but not the thought of helicopter rescue.
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Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Nowra | ||||||
Babylon Areas Babylon Eastern Cliffline | ||||||
23 | ★★ Ishtar | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lots of classy climbing to heartbreak. Start from the ground. Tree is a bit of a problem post fires with new shoots.
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Sun 13th Aug 2023 - Nowra | ||||||
Bomaderry Creek Mortein Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Bug Itch | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ Flood | 11m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
23 | ★★ Beef Master | 8m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Packs a lot in a little space. From near flash to flogged.
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Mon 31st Jul 2023 - Nowra | ||||||
Bomaderry Creek Scattered Crags The Ammo Dump | ||||||
22 ~23 | ★★ Chunkily Challenged | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Pumpy powerful climbing. So weak. Prob needs a grade or two. Spoilt a little by sandy start.
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Mon 31st Jul 2023 - Nowra | ||||||
Bomaderry Creek Scattered Crags Julian Rocks | ||||||
17 ~21 | ★ Family Favourite | 7m | ★ Good | |||
Awesome climbing but hard and not a warmup in my current state. Bolts are tricky to clip. Grade is somewhere between 19-22.
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Mon 31st Jul 2023 - Nowra | ||||||
Hospital Rocks Slabby Wall | ||||||
13 | ★ Jesse Fetch | 11m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Way better than it looks.
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21 | Mad Dog | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
One move.
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Mon 31st Jul 2023 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ||||||
The Lair Members Area | ||||||
22 | ★★ Bakery Treat | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Packs a punch from the ground to the chains. So much funkiness.
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22 ~21 | ★★ Origami | 15m, 6 | Average | |||
Blind slap. All a bit meh.
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Mon 31st Jul 2023 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ||||||
The Lair Berlin Wall | ||||||
15 ~13 | ★ Street Sweeper | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Varied slabbing
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12 | ★ Chuffed | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Delicate slabbing
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Mon 31st Jul 2023 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ||||||
The Lair Sundeck | ||||||
17 ~15 | ★ Barbeque Breakfast | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
nice little holds.
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19 ~19 | ★★ Delta Cream | 17m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Engaging from the ground
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Sat 14th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Pindari | ||||||
20 | ★★★ This Sporting Life | 43m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This is so much better than I remembered. Finessed from go to wo, with nary a pull. So nice without the pump.
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Fri 13th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Corroboree Walls Fashion Area | ||||||
24 ~23 | ★★ Work Injury — 3 attempts | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
It was always soft for 24. Pretty engaging bottom, burly getting off the ramp to the first crimp like I remembered, and then a ladder to the top with so many fantastically positive holds. Way better than I remembered. Some wonderful, how am I still on burns.
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23 ~22 | ★★ Fashion | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really happy to get up first go putting draws on. Crux draw actually felt easy to get on - hooray for rings. Should def put it on from above. Such wonderful climbing. Benchmark old-skool 22.
|
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Fri 13th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Corroboree Walls Disneyland | ||||||
18 | ★ Nappy Action | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Much nicer than I remembered. Long, quality sustained climbing.
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Wed 11th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Collits Crevasse | ||||||
21 | ★ Teenage Wildlife | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Exemplary older style climb. Nice engaging sections to keep interest piqued to the top. Old-skool 21, modern 22.
|
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20 | ★ Rock'n Roll Suicide | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Not the best warmup. Really nice climbing and sustained start, even once you've found the right holds.
|
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Wed 11th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | ||||||
23 ~22 | ★★ Mal's Mega Route | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Too short to be classic but it does cram the good stuff in. Better than I remembered. 20 years gets me deja-flash, but geez we musta got strong fingers faffing with carrots. 22 for old times sake.
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Tue 10th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Hermione | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Beautiful and surprisingly insecure.
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22 ~21 | ★★ Lady Grinning Soul | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Classic line. Always fun.
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21 ~20 | ★★ Sound and Vision | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Not as nice as it's neighbours. FUn 3-d start. Insecure intro to the crux gives it the spice.
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Tue 10th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Electric Blue Area | ||||||
22 ~23 | ★ Kate's Kangaroo Dance | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Big boulder problem move, easier if you're tall. Really fun slab. Probably 23.
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Sun 8th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Binary Cave | ||||||
24 ~23 | ★ Survival Day | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting climbing and cool crux. Lots of intermediates and a kneebar mean you'd have to be pretty short to not reach.
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25 | ★★ Binary Neil | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very classy climbing
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Sun 8th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Choc Chip Chai Sector | ||||||
20 ~19 | ★★ Choc Chip Chai | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tasty.
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Fri 30th Dec 2022 - Nowra | ||||||
The Grotto Cliffline The Grotto Proper | ||||||
24 | ★★ Sheriff Of Nothing | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Super fun and not as gnarly as it looks, but with a sting. Calf cramp! Still scratching the surface 30 years later.
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15 | ★ McStagger | 15m, 6 | ||||
Bwahaha, still pulling on draws.
|
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20 | ★ McStagger Direct Start | 15m | ||||
Not a warmup. Piked onto McStagger. Probably onsighted last millennium.
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23 | ★★★ Amazon Queens In the Avocado Jungles Of Death | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mid 90s. So good and just as sustained and even more improbable than I remembered.
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Fri 30th Dec 2022 - Nowra | ||||||
Bomaderry Creek Rosies | ||||||
29 | ★★★ Frosty | 15m | ||||
First 29 I've failed to onsight.
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Sun 18th Dec 2022 - Nowra | ||||||
Bomaderry Creek Mortein Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Jock Itch | 12m, 5 | Don't Bother | |||
25 years later and still crap. A pretty wall and nice start ruined by bolts trying to make a route that's not there and a crap, snatchy thin crux.
|
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18 | ★ Wobblebuns | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Pretty burly/tricky crux with blind feet.
|
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17 | ★ Psycho Hose Beast | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Pretty rad n steep, true Nowra 17
|
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Sun 18th Dec 2022 - Nowra | ||||||
Babylon Areas Occupied Territories Slabs | ||||||
17 ~15 | ★ The Golan Heights | 10m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
A few nice moves.
|
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Sun 18th Dec 2022 - Nowra | ||||||
Babylon Areas Occupied Territories Scoop Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ Beit Hadassah | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Pretty steep for a slab
|
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Wed 30th Nov 2022 - The Wastelands | ||||||
The pre-bumbly area | ||||||
23 | ★★ Poetic Licence | 7m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Why the hell are routes at Wastelands described right to left?! Explains why it felt hard for 20. Can confirm there is no devious undercling. Dyno seems nails. Start from ground to increase route length by 25%!
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Sun 6th Nov 2022 - Scarborough Cliffs | ||||||
Kenny's Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ OMG Its a Goddamn Whale Plague | 13m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rap it and brush it. Start moves are not the best warmup. Classy climbing bottom to top. Sydney to Gong with the Coledale DJ!
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21 | ★★ Piss Poor Protoplasm Powerfully Pulling Pebbles | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fantastic. Pebble pulling didn't feel delicate today. Can't believe I OSd this and thought it was soft. Must be the extra covid pounds.
|
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Sat 5th Nov 2022 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ||||||
The Lair Sundeck | ||||||
22 22 R | ★ Fiest-Fest | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Nice boulder problem, but it has real potential to go bad.
|
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Sat 5th Nov 2022 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ||||||
The Lair Black Wall | ||||||
11 | ★★ Tim's Torment | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Pretty cool for 11
|
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Tue 1st Nov 2022 - Mount Keira | ||||||
West Face | ||||||
17 | ★ Blossom | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Tree root and 0 cam for anchor! Then whipped on it a bunch for giggles. Surprisingly tech start into devious crux for the grade.
|
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Tue 1st Nov 2022 - Mount Alexandra | ||||||
Central Area | ||||||
15 | ★★ The Gruffalo | 24m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Nice long beginner route with obvious step around the bulge to knock a couple of grades off
|
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14 | ★ Snooze and You Lose | 24m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Surprisingly insecure corner followed by airy juggy arete
|
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Wed 3rd Aug 2022 - Nowra | ||||||
Hospital Rocks Slabby Wall | ||||||
17 19 | ★ Hair'o'tha Dog | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
2 bolts of fun. Not hard for 19.
|
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13 11 | ★ Little Boxer Girl | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Not many 11s need
a kneebar!
|
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Sat 16th Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Auntie Jack Area | ||||||
22 | ★★ Return of the Toe Cutter Gang | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Key right footer.
|
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Mon 18th Apr 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Engineers Cascade | ||||||
17 | ★ Living in the Outside | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Better than I remembered. Some finesse helps. Lots of laps getting the lead solo rust out. 9.2mm feeds like butter, but catch ya?
|
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22 | ★ Mechanical Advantage | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Better and more consistent than I remembered.
|
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Fri 15th Apr 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Giggles Wall | ||||||
23 | Truckstop Lawyers | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Bit contrived. 3 hard thin moves to very nice climbing all the way to the chains.
|
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Fri 15th Apr 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Cheap Dive Wall and Beyond | ||||||
18 19 | ★ Mr Poopypants | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Sport route with optional cams. Some delicate arete moves. Start is more pleasant than it looks. Probably still soggy at 18. Nose-butting sharp edges not recommended, chunky gusher.
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Fri 15th Apr 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Black Bart's Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Sadhu Rum | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Key holds are even slicker than I remembered. The rest is a bit of a ramble.
|
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Sun 20th Feb 2022 - Mount Keira | ||||||
West Face | ||||||
20 | ★★ One Blank Wall and 3 Bloody Rooves | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Unique dyno. Forgot my brush.
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Mon 10th Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Fargoid Area | ||||||
21 | ★ Fargoid | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Another blueys 21. Punchy start into cruxy crux and delicate finish.
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Wed 5th Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Buddha/Engineering Area | ||||||
23 | ★★ Buddha and the Chocolate Box | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pretty memorable for a sport route.
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Sun 2nd Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Pindari | ||||||
23 | ★★★ The House of Meat | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Benchmark. From the ground is fine, traversing would be a right pain. Awesome headwall. Camped out the thunderstorm at half height, stashing everything metal.
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20 | ★★★ This Sporting Life | 43m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I must be getting less discerning with age. Fabulous climbing. Clare, Dave, Jill and Carie.
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Wed 22nd Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area The Noisy Place | ||||||
25 | Simon's Route | 15m, 3 | Average | |||
Unfortunately you end up in the pod. Only shares one hold at the top and the climbing is good and sustained. The crux is hard and the last bolt is weirdly placed, I'm guessing to keep it away from the crack.
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Tue 31st Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Corroboree Walls Disneyland | ||||||
21 | ★ Stromboli | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very rad, shame it's not longer. Most definitely 21. If it feels harder you haven't found the 2 key sequences.
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21 23 | ★ Uncontrollable Urge | 22m | ★ Good | |||
McDougall still the way to go and makes it much more consistent. Very nice thoughtful climbing from bottom to top. Musta been strong back in the day to stick those slopes.
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Fri 20th Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Nothing Area | ||||||
24 | ★ Nothing | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Old-skool (cough) 23. Would've been a giggle on the carrots. I wonder if it's worn away/got harder or we've got softer or need to find all the sequences. Diagonally past 1st bolt just seems wrong. Went up and traversed hard right which was cool. Cross-through, right foot, sustain, heartbreaker crux.
|
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19 | Areticide | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Stars! Fun old-skool start mostly climbing around the crack with an arm/leg bar or two. Tricky onto and then up cool insecure arete to the top. Really pleasant and climbs different every lap.
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Sat 14th Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Buddha/Engineering Area | ||||||
22 | ★★ Engineering Feats of the 80s | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Old-skool 22. Powerful sustained 1st half, and engaging top half. Bit sharp to start. Beware the semi-permanent flake. Glad I didn't lead this in its previous engineering state. Pretty classic really.
|
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Tue 9th Mar 2021 - South Sister | ||||||
Caramel Slice Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★ Turn the Page | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Get suckered? Great TRS access. Pretty solid start into a very smear specific crux for me followed by a really fun top half. Solid for the grade. Would be near-classic anywhere else, but this is Tasmania!
|
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Sun 24th Jan 2021 - Scarborough Cliffs | ||||||
Kenny's Wall | ||||||
22 21 | ★ Baleines ou pas Baleines | 12m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Maybe 23. $deity it's thin and desperate all the way. Smears, intermediate smear, diagonal rail, little left beak, break and go. 2nd bolt - off left. 3rd - Underclings.
4th slopes to right and left to high incut sidepull.
|
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20 21 | ★★ OMG Its a Goddamn Whale Plague | 13m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
lap to clean, lap to tick. Nice movement.
|
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19 20 | ★★ Anthracite | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quite sustained and a reasonable crux.
|
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20 21 | ★★ Piss Poor Protoplasm Powerfully Pulling Pebbles | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
More engaging than it looks. Delicate pebbles.
|
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20 21 | ★★ Chef's Chocolate Salty Balls | 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tasty.
|
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Sat 16th Jan 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area The Noisy Place | ||||||
24 | ★★ Doigte le trou | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Trou amélioré. Trois à deux. Not sure about trying to force the direct start. Quite the technical and pumpy top half. Very well bolted.
|
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Tue 12th Jan 2021 - Mount Keira | ||||||
North Face | ||||||
22 24 | ★★ Wallyard Grave | 16m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
AFter 20 years finally had a proper go. Awesome nails climbing with monster footwork. Assuming the hole(s) of WA (at 3rd bolt) is in, otherwise even more nails. Most likely this does not avoid major face crack on top (19). Note: 2 rusty bolts and then gear or death.
|
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Sun 10th Jan 2021 - Scarborough Cliffs | ||||||
The Penthouse | ||||||
20 19 | ★ Ernie Dingo In the Attic | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Silly Dingo linkup. Way pumpier and steeper than Silly-cosis. Bit dirty. Where are the jugs?
|
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20 | ★★ Silly-Cosis | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great movement. A bit of everything.
|
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22 23 | ★★ Inflation Station | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Quite punchy. Bit soggy at 23 unless you're meant to go uber-direct.
|
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22 | ★★ Finger Blaster | 23m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Crack for breakfast.
|
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20 | ★ When the Shooting Starts the Looting Starts | 7m | Average | |||
Worst house in best street.
|
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Wed 30th Dec 2020 - Nowra | ||||||
Bomaderry Creek Scattered Crags F.O. Crag | ||||||
22 | ★★ Cowabunga Patties | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Only 5 bolts but on from before you leave the ground until you're standing at the chains. Solid Nowra 22. Loses a star for the anti-chipped holds and lack of traffic. Gains a star 'cause so many rad moves, the stone is bullet-hard, and no tick marks. Bolts still seem in good nick.
|
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Sun 27th Dec 2020 - South Pacific | ||||||
Descent Gully - Left Side | ||||||
23 | ★★★ It Began In Afrika | 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short but every move is good. Blew the flash on the final dyno, hand sliding out the soap dish. Oddly placed 4th? bolt. Dialled in static move to replace the final chuck and did laps. Benchmark 23.
|
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Sun 27th Dec 2020 - South Pacific | ||||||
Decadence Wall | ||||||
18 21 | ★★ Champagne & Bolognese | 27m, 18 | ★ Good | |||
21 on Venus perhaps. More like 18-19. Good engaging climbing. Loses a star for the lower rock and loses another star for bolting the perfect middle crack.
|
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Sun 27th Dec 2020 - South Pacific | ||||||
Underworld | ||||||
23 | ★★ Born Slippy | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Trust the rubber. Good from the roof up. Damo knows what he's talking about.
|
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Thu 24th Dec 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath Reservoir Dogs | ||||||
16 18 | ★ Let's Get a Taco | 36m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Classy climbing. So many jugs.
Somewhere between 13-17. Sportingly bolted.
|
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19 | ★★ Stuck in the Middle with You | 38m, 15 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool layaways. Sportingly bolted.
|
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20 | ★★ Danger Freak | 38m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
Bit of a cruxy crux and nice climbing for the 1st 2/3rds. Surprisingly steep cranky finish. Bit soggy at 21.
|
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Sat 12th Dec 2020 - Mount Alexandra | ||||||
Manchester United Wall | ||||||
24 25 | ★★★ Quickie Quim Fill | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Still 24, still a pumper. Wide variety of moves, and the route crux to the knob is a bit thrutchy like I did remember. Still wonderfully insecure and the fingerlock is pretty spesh.
|
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21 | Green Gate | 12m | Average | |||
Great moves but but in reality its 2 bolts long.
|
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Wed 9th Dec 2020 - Stanwell Tops | ||||||
Stonehaven | ||||||
19 | ★★ Pendulous Testicles | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Surprisingly insecure. On from go to whoa. Felt plain hard keeping left with a committing crux. Risking matching the crack and mantling right may have eased the difficulty.
|
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20 | ★ Tataclop | 12m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Inobvious start, delicate mantle, thin slap with proper bad feet and engaging finish.
|
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20 | ★★ Fling The Merciless | 12m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
The most normal route here. Nice pockets. A very long stretch directly over the bolt (maybe go left?) and cruisy finish.
|
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18 | ★★ JAC | 14m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Fun delicate thinking persons' moves.
|
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Mon 7th Dec 2020 - South Pacific | ||||||
Right Side Slabs | ||||||
20 19 | ★★ Diva | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
This is the warmup I was looking for. Nice balancy moves with rest stances. Prob 19, or just warmed up. A touch short for the 2nd star.
|
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20 21 | ★★ Deceptively Simple | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Not the warmup I was looking for. Great climbing, and pumpy with tech crux and route finding. Maybe 21 or just not warmed up. Tad short for 2nd star, although a lot of climbing in a little space.
|
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Sun 6th Dec 2020 - South Pacific | ||||||
Underworld | ||||||
21 22 | ★ Two Months Off | 18m, 8 | Average | |||
20/21 1 bolt boulder to bolted crack. Fun top that's easy to get wrong.
|