Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Thu 28th Dec 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Wave Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ Off the Lip | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
25 Easy | ★★★ Rubber Lover — 3 attempts | 20m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Punted off the throw to the final crimp like a moron on my onsight attempt. Bleurgh
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Wed 27th Dec 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Boronia Point Main Wall (Ferris Cave) | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Lyptus | 23m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Repeat
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30 | ★★★ Big Wednesday — 3 attempts | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Mega route, glad to work the moves after being too intimidated on previous visits. Linked to about halfway - one to come back for
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25 | ★★★ Grape Hour — 2 attempts | 22m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Amnesia repeat. Not as fit as I used to be…
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24 | ★★ Sydney Rose | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fun juggery thuggery apart from the first move. EOD burn
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Thu 14th Sep 2023 - Morialta | ||||||
Far Crag | ||||||
8 | ★ Al Sirrat | 14m | ★ Good | |||
16 | ★ Golgotha | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Supposedly I’ve seconded this previously. Remembering precisely none of the moves made for a thought provoking outing
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12 | ★ Sheoak Corner | 15m | ||||
16 | ★ Asgard | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Bringing a 2nd 0.3 cam for the crux would have saved me a lot of faffing around trying to wiggle in a crap RP
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Sat 17th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Sunnyside | ||||||
23 | ★★ Searching for the Light | 24m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★★★ Seamstress | 22m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great climbing. Lower Off’s at the top are super worn though almost to the point of being dangerous. Would recommend rapping down instead of lowering until they’re replaced
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Sat 17th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Bell Supercrag Duck Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Pluck-a-Duck | 22m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
23 Hard | ★ Out For A Duck | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 16th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Hat Hill Crag | ||||||
24 Easy | ★★ Maiden Voyage | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 14th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Atlantis | ||||||
23 Hard | ★★★ Highside | 23m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★ Eurotic | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 14th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Hat Hill Crag | ||||||
22 | ★★ Fedora | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tue 13th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Atlantis | ||||||
21 | ★ Wingman Anytime | 15m | Average | |||
Weird moves
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Sun 4th Jun 2023 - Norton Summit | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Intellectual Property | 20m | ★ Good | |||
First repeat since ‘21 and the most straightforward it’s ever felt. Board climbing paying off just in time for the Blueys
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Wed 29th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★ Pyrrhic Victory | 40m | ||||
Pulled through the cruxy start on second and was removing gear in a pretty awkward drop knee which my right knee decided it wanted no part in and so promptly exploded and collapsed inwards. Goodbye MCL and goodbye tick. Likely won’t be getting on this again as a result
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Tue 28th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group High Dive Gully | ||||||
25 | ★ Corruption and Lies | 10m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Doesn’t even count as a flash having previously done pcl
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Tue 28th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully | ||||||
24 | ★★ Astral Plane — 2 attempts | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 26th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group High Dive Gully | ||||||
28 | ★★★ Lats in the Belfry | 20m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Some amazing flowy moves in the lower half. Need to work out the final massive lunge linking in to PCL
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Sat 25th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | ||||||
23 | ★ Gurtle Tier — 2 attempts | 12m, 3 | Average | |||
Some interesting moves. Would climb better with chalk on the holds instead of the greased up gunk I had to deal with
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Sun 19th Mar 2023 - Onkaparinga | ||||||
Red Cliff Main Wall - Lust sector | ||||||
21 ~20 | ★★★ Blades Of Glory | 26m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
24 | ★★★ Stalagmite Addiction | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amnesia send. Still the best line here imo
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26 | ★★ One Hold, One Quest | 25m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Stuck the dyno on my flash attempt then decided to be a moron and attempted to campus to a non existent hold. Such is life…
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Mon 13th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
18 | ★★ Creon - Tales of Brave Ulysses | 110m | ★ Good | |||
Pitch 2 looked amazing from the belay. Climbing quality didn't quite match up but good fun nonetheless
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14 R | ★★ Hot Flap | 170m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 12th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Kachoong Area | ||||||
20 | ★★ A Taste of Honey Direct Start | 13m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Amazing! fantastic flowy moves and bomber wires right when you need them
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Sun 12th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Echo Crag | ||||||
21 ~22 | ★ Jesus Built My Hotrod | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Might be 21 in primo conditions and a 7 foot wingspan. I had neither of those. Unless I missed an obvious hold, the moves between bolts 2 and 3 felt absolutely nails. Raptures of the Steep is easier
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23 | ★ The Swarm | 18m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
19 | ★★ Touch-Type | 25m, 2 | ||||
crux holds weren't fun in the baking sun
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14 | ★★ Touchstone | 60m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 11th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
17 | ★ Crescendo | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
fantastic moves, would be a classic if it was more sustained. (took great care to avoid the ferns too )
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Fri 10th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★★ Lamplighter | 78m | ★★ Very Good | |||
would not recommend to someone for their first 14. very exposed and delicate in places
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Sun 19th Feb 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Muldoon Area | ||||||
18 | ★ The Iliad Connection | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
quality first pitch marred only by some suspect rock on the last overhang. Didn't climb the described P2, instead went straight up a cool chalky groove thing off the belay
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Fri 17th Feb 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Discord Direct | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Nice moves once you get through the complete choss start
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Fri 17th Feb 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | ||||||
18 | ★★ Virginia | 25m | ★ Good | |||
16 | ★★ Coming on Chris | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Worth every star!
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Thu 16th Feb 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs John's Pinnacle | ||||||
18 | ★ Shanghai | 30m | Average | |||
Pretty sure I spent more time off the route than on it… committing moves down low on fiddly gear but some nice moves up high. Bring rp’s and doubles in micro cams if you’ve got them
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Thu 26th Jan 2023 - The Bluff | ||||||
The Pleasure Dome | ||||||
19 | ★★ Richthofen's Circus | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Seconded Sarah who made it look way easier than it felt. Seeping holds didn’t help
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22 | ★★★ Rubber Ducky | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Stoked!!! Especially for my first trad route after a few months off the injury. Glorious jamming the whole way up with a slopey top out for a bitta spice at the end
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14 R | ★★ Pleasure Dome | 5m | ★ Good | |||
Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall | ||||||
V3 | ★ V3 #2 | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
scary in the fading light and not being able to see the footholds
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V3 | ★★ V3 Arete | 4m | ||||
V0+ | ★★ V0+ | 3m | ||||
Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Trackside/Hammer Boulder | ||||||
V5 | ★★★ Sledgy | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
V3 | ★★ Mallet | 4m | ||||
V4 | ★★ Pounded | 2m | ||||
V1 | ★ Dead Blow | 3m | ||||
Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group High Dive Gully | ||||||
23 | ★★★ High Dive | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
been putting this off way too long. steep, pumpy, heel hooks galore - right up my alley!
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Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
19 19 R | ★★ Wall of the Afternoon Sun | 140m | Average | |||
not one for those aspiring to lead this grade. stuff all gear on pitch 3
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Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress | ||||||
22 |
★★★ Reaper
1
22
40m
2
| 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
onsighted P1. froze my ass off at the belay for an hour after Leigh realised he needed a pre-climb weight loss/toilet stop. Icy immobile muscles led to a fall seconding P2 after committing to wrong beta. will have to come back for the full tick
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Sun 25th Sep 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae The Flight Deck | ||||||
27 | ★★ Have a Good Flight Direct Start | 20m | ||||
repeat
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25 | ★★★ Have A Good Flight | 18m, 5 | ||||
repeat
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Fri 23rd Sep 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully | ||||||
18 | ★★ Gilt Edged | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fri 23rd Sep 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae House of Atreus | ||||||
21 | ★ Blind Profit | 30m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Actually really enjoyed this. One tricky move
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Fri 23rd Sep 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae The Flight Deck | ||||||
24 | ★ It'll Never Fly | 20m, 4 | Don't Bother | |||
Not worth the effort of getting your gear back afterwards
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Thu 22nd Sep 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle | ||||||
25 | ★ The Flashing Blade | 25m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very fun! But over far too soon
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Sun 4th Sep 2022 - Norton Summit | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
26 | ★★ Tim in the Gym | 15m | ★ Good | |||
in my runners for something different
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Thu 7th Jul 2022 - Norton Summit | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
27 26 | ★★ Eddie and Dudley’s Excellent Adventure | 10 | ★ Good | |||
Did a completely whack variant/link-up thing starting up peregrine right to the second draw, crossed over into the drop knees of Tim (clipped third draw of Tim), dropped down into this route and across to the knee-bar, then up and left finishing as for Kill Like A Madam. Damn pumpy and felt a grade harder than Tim even with the knee bar rest. Only worth doing if you’re ticked literally everything else on this wall
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Thu 23rd Jun 2022 - Norton Summit | ||||||
The Cave | ||||||
26 | ★★ Eddie and Dudley’s Excellent Adventure | 10 | ★ Good | |||
did a variant from the kneebar in the corner, instead of going right and mantling, went left back into Tim (above the rooflet) and finished that route's extension. bit of rope drag but manageable, slightly pumpier than the original version I felt
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Mon 13th Jun 2022 - Moonarie | ||||||
Great Wall Area | ||||||
26 25 | ★★ Get out of your wheelchair and climb this you tool, But reality is it's just a Hollywood farce - with Kelly Thorpe | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Actually got way further than expected on my flash attempt (gear pre-placed) Solid links through all the crux moves, will definitely have to come back for this thing. Absolutely nails for 25 though, I’ve done 26 faces that are less sustained than this!
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18 | ★★ Cypress Avenue | 65m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 13th Jun 2022 - Moonarie | ||||||
Checkers Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Pagoda Original | 100m | ★★★ Classic | |||
19 | ★★★ Pine Crack | 65m | ★★★ Classic | |||
First pitch is where all the action is. P2 is exciting for five metres then the difficulty is over far too soon
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Mon 13th Jun 2022 - Moonarie | ||||||
The Ramparts | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Good Life | 40m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Awesome, flowing grade 18 weaving back and forth around the arete until the final crux. Marred only by some suspect rock in places and some dicking around at the anchor if you don’t want to haul up double ropes through that top crux
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Fri 20th May 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Siren Area | ||||||
9 | ★★★ Siren | 150m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Spicy step across then glorious exposure on the latter pitches
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Wed 18th May 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group High Dive Gully | ||||||
23 | ★ Cellular Destruction | 8m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go. Quanked my onsight trying to place gear before the traverse
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Tue 17th May 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ The Fortress | 18m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Amnesia repeat. Did it properly and placed gear on lead this time
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Thu 12th May 2022 - Norton Summit | ||||||
The Hole | ||||||
29 | ★★ Filipino Furburger | 9m | ||||
All moves done first go after resting on the first bolt out from Filipino Path. Beta for feet in that section feels terrible so will probably have to resort to a hectic campus out of the two good pockets
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V8 | ★ Filipino Path | 6m | ||||
Pretty cruisy until the big cross at the end, which feels terrifying and impossible in equal measure
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Fri 29th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae The Flight Deck | ||||||
22 | ★★ Plimsoll Line | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Some interesting climbing, if very repetitive. Would probably only lead it with the piton stick clipped
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23 | ★★★ Orestes | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
WOOOOO!!!!! Been dreaming of doing this onsight for five years. Went for it on the last day of my trip and it went down! So unbelievably stoked!
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Wed 27th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
22 | ★★ Collision Course | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
One of the best climbs I’ve done out here!
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Tue 26th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
14 | ★★ Mantle | 90m | ★ Good | |||
Just fantastic! A few bold sections (particularly at the start of both pitches but the climbing is delightful
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15 14 | ★ Gecko | 48m | ||||
Don’t know if I followed the proper line because this felt quite hard and bold for 14. Similar climbing to brolga with good but spaced gear. Tricams and double ropes help.
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Mon 25th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Mitre Rock South Mitre | ||||||
21 22 | ★★ Speechless | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Honestly a fantastic grade 17 but for some sketchy moves down low on a loose block
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25 | ★ Seamy Side | 18m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd go after getting tangled up in the crux. Start is very contrived to avoid using the leftmost arete (and you may as well anyway if you want to place safe gear for the traverse)
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22 | ★ Mediterranean Sundance | 20m | ||||
Sun 24th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Thunder Crack | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Much nicer than my onsight lap two years ago now that I know how to jam
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25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat lap to set the gear for some friends
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Sat 23rd Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ The Rack - with Justin Wimmer | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
14 | ★ Nero - with Justin Wimmer | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Placed three ball nuts in the space of thirty centimetres as a novelty
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20 | ★★ Christian Crack - with Justin Wimmer | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bit of a journey but got up in the end
|
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16 | ★ Crucifixion - with Justin Wimmer | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Fri 22nd Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Anxiety Neurosis P2 Direct | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very different style to P1
|
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26 |
★★★ Anxiety Neurosis
- with
Bradd Jimmink
1
26
40m
2
26
| 40m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Unreal!!! Never in a million years did I envision getting on this. Fortunately Brad brought the psyche and I now have another unforgettable memory to add to the collection out here. Came within millimeters of onsighting P1 then stoked with the flash of the 26 finish of P2
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Thu 21st Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Kachoong Area | ||||||
23 | ★★★ One Day Hero | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd go. Thought I was on Dancing Gnome. Pumped myself pretty well placing gear then misread the top sequence and blew the OS. No Bolts in this climb anymore
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21 | ★★ Dr. Paul and the Amazing Dancing Gnome | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Is it an Onsight? Is it a flash? Is it a red point? Who knows, life is all one big mess anyway. Fun enough, but not as sustained and full value as ODH
|
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Wed 20th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork | ||||||
18 | ★★ I'm A Little Dinosaur - with Justin Wimmer, Nia, Nia O'Connor | 25m | Average | |||
Delicate moves in the middle
|
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18 | ★★ I'm A Little Asteroid - with Justin Wimmer, Nia, Nia O'Connor | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really enjoyed this one
|
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Tue 19th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Dog Face | ||||||
18 | ★★ Howling Wolf | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First half of the route climbs like an absolute dream! 2nd half is a bit on the bold side. Bring plenty of slings to wrap around chicken heads near the top
|
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Tue 19th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★ Strife on the Gravy Train - with Caleb Skirrow | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Some excellent mingling
|
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Tue 19th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Moby Dick Pinnacle | ||||||
24 | ★★ Horrorscope | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fluffed my onsight by placing gear in a finger lock in the initial seam. Everything after that went first go. Psyched!!
|
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18 | ★★ Hyaena | 16m | ★ Good | |||
Had a good fight up the middle crack. Donated my share of skin and blood to a particularly sharp jam
|
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Mon 18th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | ||||||
20 18 | ★★★ Death Row | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Full value for the grade! Done several easier feeling 19’s at the mount. Slung block in sentry box and nylon sling/rope for anchor at the top that could get you back to the ground with a 70m rope (just). Both okay quality for now but can easily be backed up with good wires
|
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Sun 17th Apr 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
27 | ★★★ FinaI Departure - with Bradd Jimmink, Lucas Marie | 27m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
What a serene parable of a climb. Didn’t even think something of this level was possible after 3 months laid off with injury. Looked across at the line from the bath atop Clytemnestra just as the sun struck it this morning, visualised the moves and thought “that’s going today”. And go it did. Perhaps the most ataraxic climb I’ve ever done. What an experience. What a route. What a place
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