Ascents by Christoph Rauch having Sport CPR

The hardest boulder problem here. Had to fight quite a bit, already felt the fingers of my right hand slip just before reaching the first good hold. The middle part is unfortunately once again relatively forgettable, just like with all the routes here. Took me a while to commit to the finish because I didn't want to ruin the onsight.

Great vertical wall climbing on small, sometimes tiny holds. Nice little runout section in the middle. The upper section is easier but still not obvious and demanding. 9- is slightly exaggerated given that Schwarze Magie right next to it is similar but probably harder (and has the longer runout).

Fantastic (endurance?) wall climbing on perfect rock structures. Zaphod is supposed to be even better, now I'm curious! High first bolt, best stay a little to the left of it (positive crimps). Reaching the second is safe although it looks scary. Tricky moves lead to a big, diagonal sidepull rail. The hueco at the end looks inviting at first, but turns out to be a sloper. I used the slopy crimp on the right side, though, to get into the next section, which felt like the hardest move of the route. Two moves on and you're juggling big flakes again. Standing up on the flakes into a sensible rest, the style changes again to pockets. The finish can still throw you off, but it's not too bad, go for the holds on the arête!

Rarely done, but exactly my cup of tea. Starts like Stefan Böhm, so if you're not comfortable with shoulder cracks and chimneys, you'll have your problems there. The traverse out of the chimney is actually the crux of the whole endeavour. I put a long sling into the bolt at the start of the traverse, plus a short draw, which I unclipped once I had reached the next bolt. Left out the first bolt and put a sling in the second, too. Not too much rope drag this way, but if you're really comfortable, leave out the second bolt as well. That way a short sling at the start of the traverse suffices and you won't have to unclip anything. Anyway, the traverse is mostly hard due to bad (or missing) footholds. Good rest afterwards and a juggy section to the ledge. Finally, a great crack line almost to the top, but you have to leave it because Mr. Löw decided to bolt further to the right so you can't reach the anchor from the crack. Don't try to clip it too early!

The theme, "routes, parts of which I already climbed", continues. The cruxy start felt hugely different this time, though, because I forgot all the beta and just intuitively used the crack, which turned out to be way smoother than how I remembered my previous beta to be. From there it's a separate route, following a slightly overhanging crack dihedral. Great moves, good protection. The little runout at the end is chill. #lastrouteoftheday

Overhanging endurance climb along the black streak, already some harder moves before the good rest at the chunky hold, but the real difficulty is the technical, almost vertical top part and retaining enough juice in the arms to clip the anchor from the pumpy undercling.

Quite the fight. Felt hard, even though I apparently intuitively climbed the "easier" right-hand variant (with the "direct" line going down as 9-/9). Finicky face climbing to a deep, sharp pocket below the bulge, then traverse to the right and an awkward clip (the bolt is set quite high up, probably on purpose ). Reached up to a bad sidepull, and with the help of a sharp two-finger pocket bumped up to what turned out to be a jug. The problem with the right-hand variant is that it's hard to continue from there, but the rest in the good jug definitely saved me. Failed my first attempt to go on, had to drop back into the jug. Pushed through on my second stab and reached the mega jug at the book case. From there it's easier, but fantastic pocket climbing, but I took my time due to the pump I had already accumulated.

Didn't expect to get through this as it was my #lastrouteoftheday. Luckily, though, it's mostly an endurance piece, with two or three harder moves strewn in, which I got right immediately, albeit on the verge of running out of power. The runout after the expansion bolt increased my motivation to pull through. Rewarding! A bit careful on the first 10 meters, though, there are some loose holds.

Good route if you like tiny holds. Nasty start and sustained until the bulge. Can still throw you off in the upper part if you're not careful.

Great wall climbing with a cruxy pocket finish. The last few pockets are quite shallow, barely managed to dyno to the victory jug.

Visually the best line in this part of the wall. Also a great climb. Steep pockets in the first part, then a glory jug in the middle, followed by some awesome technical trickery in the upper part. Took the undercling above the bad little crimps as an overhead gaston (is that a thing?) to get my feet up, risky to try this in the onsight but it paid off!

Pumpy sidepull action. Probably much harder if there's no chalk on the holds. Good moves.

Oh bummer. Sat in the rope below the crux, about 3 meters off the ground, with no hard moves below me, then started from there, managed to get through the crux. Never having completed the upper part in one go, I didn't think I'd make it, so I continued on. Finished the traverse barely holding on and lunged for the sidepull. No idea how I stuck that move, but I kept pushing (or rather pulling) me to the top. Probably can't be arsed to do this again since the crux is such a hit and miss. Close enough to a clean send for me.

Great line along the narrow south east face; mostly pockets with some nasty moves. One pocket after the second bolt was worse than I had expected so I jumped out to the arête. My feet cut loose, my woollen hat fell off, but luckily, I had exactly hit the hold on the arête, so I quickly rearranged my feet and continued to the next jug. Unfortunately, it's again not obvious how to continue from there, so my right arm slowly got pumped and I just had to use everything I had to cling to the arête. Used up the last bit of strength to throw my hand up into the fist jam in the crack. Super happy about the onsight.

Felt a bit squeezed in between the other lines. Always feels a bit weird if you could clip the bolts of the neighbouring route as well, but it's still good endurance climbing with some nice moves. The top part is tricky because the holds are a bit hidden.

The first 25ish meters are great wall climbing in the lower 7th grade, totally recommended even if you don't intend to climb the little roof. The latter felt a little reachy and it seems that some people climb it even further to the right than I did, lots of chalk there. A few powerful and long moves to a good horn and that's it. Maybe not the hardest 8+ if you've got the reach.

I was very surprised when I realised I had just climbed the overhanging crack start first try and without really thinking about it. Probably would have been hard to reproduce the sequence (I reached up high with the left hand from the undercling, then somehow toehooked blindly under the roof, pulled on a crimp on the right and wedged my knee into the dihedral), so I just had to finish it right away. Luckily, it worked out, although I almost fell off due to losing my right foot when I reached out to a jug on the right. Cool crack start and good wall climbing on pockets and crimps above.

Felt hard, but it's not exactly my style. Steep start on good holds, bumped up a few times. Fun, but I prefer static moves. :-P Easy middle part, then suddenly round holds in the overhang. Got myself into a position where I had sloper sidepulls in both hands, my left foot hooked around the corner, right foot tightly pressed onto a foothold, so all I could do was bump up. Chose to go up left into what looked like a structured pocket. Almost missed the good portion of it but held on. Probably there's an easier solution for that (I read that some people go around left) but at least I can see where the name comes from.

Incredibly long route. The start is a bit awkward, I stayed on the right up to almost the third bolt before getting into the bolt line. Very tricky and technical crux in the middle, getting onto the slab. Fantastic finish in white rock, slightly overhanging. Soloed the first pitch of Punta Civetta, which is totally fine if you're a bit careful; that part is probably why the route isn't praised as much in the guide books.

Three bolts up and then traverse above the roof. Together with the classic traverse, this one has the best rock quality of the crag. Quite sustained and not very obvious. The hardest part is clipping the bolts, though. Unfortunately, each one of them in the traverse is too low. Might be 8+ with better bolting.

Marvellous classic, marred a little by the gnarly start after the flake has been ripped off. Didn't remember the section after the belay to be so hard, some proper athletic moves there. Beautiful traverse to the right. I didn't realize the original went up in the left dihedral, so I once again climbed the finish of "Station 53" after resting for ages in the kneebar.

Phew. Nasty, hard, attack on the fingers. Not exactly a beauty. The clips are fiddly, too.

For some reason I thought this was supposed to be 9 or harder, so when I read that it was only 8 I had to hop on it. Crux is to get out under the little bulge in the middle. I solved it by going to the left a bit first, then stepping onto the bulge whilst in a finger lock with my left hand. Quite tricky! The runout to the bolt above that is perfectly fine, there are big holds on the arête to the right. Still powerful towards the top, but nowhere near the ninth grade. Good route! Should be done more to keep the dust from building up.

Nice route despite the looks. Relatively obvious line along chunky jugs to a good rest below the final bulge, which is easier than it looks (but still a little powerful, of course). Crux might actually be the start, the rest is endurance.

Amazing pockets in the steep part, crux for me was the little traverse below the bulge and getting over it into vertical terrain (seems like it‘s a tad easier a bit further to the right, but I missed that opportunity). The name suggests a bitter end, but with the good rest two meters below the anchor (probably not used by the first ascensionist) it‘s not too bad.

Not as physical as VHG to the left, but it more than makes up for it in terms of technique. A long series of tough, interesting moves along a thin crack line. Mostly balancy laybacking, a good fingerlock in the middle provides a rest. The bulge towards the last bolt felt cruxy to me, took me a good while to find a solution. Great route.

Three moves or so, short boulder after a no-hands rest at the anchor, good rock. Probably easier than 8+.

Yet another one of the same style. The starting boulder is a little harder than the one of YOLO, but 8+ is too much.

Who would have guessed … more of the same. The start feels a bit different because the rock is darker. The traverse along the roof felt a little contrived, although of course the holds are nice. You probably need to stay very low to make it 8+. If you grab the jugs above the penultimate bolt, it's around 8, I think.

Easy start, then an awkward clip where the overhang starts. Had to clip it while sitting like a frog on a sort of tufa-like rail (no real tufa, of course, we don't get that here). From there it's really athletic and dynamic climbing, fortunately I guessed the combination right.

Good pocket climbing. The pockets seeped a little and were slimy from all the chalk, though. Airy finish. Careful, longer than the rest of the routes here.

Short, steep, slightly painful holds. One pocket in the crux was wet, felt awkward, still managed to make the move into the round pocket, albeit more dynamically than I would usually have done it.

Homogeneous wall climbing on small holds. Nice technical dance up the wall, right up my alley. The character changes in pitch 2, with a reachy crux at the bulge and then a good few meters of pocket pulling. Did the whole thing in one pitch, but the rest at the anchor of "Ringe" is good enough, so I don't think the difficulty goes up to a full 9- if you add "Weltmeister der Herzen" on top. Brilliant if you like vertical climbing on small holds.

Pumpy overhang passage with sidepulls and underclings, I really went all in on this one, felt quite hard. Bumped up a few times almost desperately to reach the big undercling. Turns out it's not exactly a rest, so you still need to fight on to reach the next undercling … and the jug afterwards. The runout in the end is fine, though; just don't pull too hard on the fragile fin on top.

Nice black slab, quite tough today because it was moist, followed by a one-move crux to the big jug rail. A few more athletic moves to the anchor.

Super sharp, rough holds (you almost can't slip out of the pockets) and great line and climbing. Easy layback start, then onto the arête and into the pocketed headwall. Quite straightforward. The last bolt before the anchor is awkwardly placed, but you can safely clip late.

Brilliant line that draws up almost diagonally. It's exclusively wall climbing on crimps and pockets, the variety indicated in the name comes from the different rock structures. Starts off with sharp, almost crystalline dolomite crimps and pockets, then the edges get duller and duller, culminating in a short, smooth wall with slopers and bad feet (smearing is paramount). Finally some sidepulls and edges in black rock to the anchor. I knew this last part already from the combination I climbed last time. 4 no-hands rests, so not too exhausting, but lots of places to mess up. #lastrouteoftheday

Even though it didn't feel too good, I somehow made my way up to the last bolt, which gave me the courage to push on and finish it. I somehow intuitively chose the correct sequence at the top, turned out great.

Nice one. It's crucial for me to leave out the clip in the crux and only use the rusty pegs afterwards. Wouldn't be dangerous even if the pegs break. Without having to clip that bolt, you can quickly power through the boulder moves. The extension adds fantastically to the airiness of the whole endeavour, but is more or less just a bonus, since it's much easier. The original route drove out to the left here.

Alex put in the draws when coming down from Göttner, because I read that clipping the first is tough without a draw in (and it is). Clipping the second bolt was extremely awkward because I didn't find the clipping jug … you shouldn't fall while clipping, so that was uncomfortable. Still more slab action after the clip, took me a while to find a viable solution. The really hard part for me, though, was the section after the bulge. Nice jugs get you into the overhang, but then there's one section with few holds, and they're all quite bad. Got over that passage by the skin of my teeth. Certainly worth 8+, already for the slab below, but especially in combination with that hard passage up top.

Same start as "Ambivalenzia", but then drives out a little left to a really chossy section of the bulge. Hard to find solid holds, and even harder to find the one mediocre pocket above the edge which allows you to pull up and reach the crimps. Nice short wall section afterwards, but the finish is a little awkward again (easier on the right, but probably intended to be climbed directly?).

Great, sustained wall climbing in the middle. Only the line isn't absolutely clear … but that might be due to the traverse bolts of the original Meier route. Can't count this as a redpoint because I left out a (presumably) substantial part of the climb and it's an endurance piece.

Carried out the beta as practised. (First old bolt preclipped.)

Got through clean even though I hadn‘t worked out the upper part! Pumpy as hell if you still have to figure out the moves. My big toe of the right foot is complaining a bit because it had the hardest job in this one, the footholds on the left are almost always too bad to weight them fully.

Definitely much better with higher temps. Last time, in winter, the sharp holds were killing my skin. Perfect conditions today. Unusual style for me because my beta involves quite a few dynamic bumps. The upper part is still tricky and exhausting, almost fell off when I lunged to a sloper and didn't stick it fully. Readjusting luckily worked out and I could muster the strength to pull up into the rest.

Straight up the centre of the white face, following a faint crack that runs out in the middle, which is also where the hardest moves await. Just stole mantra's beta, which worked out nicely.

Unusually crisp crimps all the way, with quite a few difficult, beautiful moves, but also some bigger holds to rest a bit in between. Felt like climbing on a lush evening in the Mediterranean.

Sustained overhang section with some smaller holds. The crux move might be the cross into the mediocre sidepull and keeping it together afterwards on the slopy crimps. It's not over at the no-hands rest, though! The top section is still challenging. Great one.

My hardest second. ;-) The bolting is a bit strange, always a bit too far on the left, which also makes the third (or so) clip scary, especially because the most important hold seems to be wet for quite some time. Tried Matzes beta in the upper part (a little more to the right, "resting" on a "jug" for a few seconds), but found it more difficult than my direct variant. A reachy lunge up left is the last hard move.