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Ascents of The Governor

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 132 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Mt Barney
East Peak
23 The Governor - with Yim
1 19 25 Second lead by Yim
2 20 25 Second lead by Yim

Tough bulge moves

3 20 20 Sport lead by Hyahno Moser
4 16 25 Sport lead by Hyahno Moser
5 18 15 Second lead by Yim
6 21 20 Sport lead by Hyahno Moser
7 21 20 Sport lead by Hyahno Moser

Loved this pitch, such crazy moves in such an amazing location. Couldn't believe my body doing these moves. Awesome

8 18 20 Second lead by Yim
9 14 25 Second lead by Yim
10 17 15 Second lead by Yim
11 21 20 Sport lead by Hyahno Moser
12 20 20 Sport lead by Hyahno Moser
13 23 20 Second lead by Yim

Really ramped up the intensity here. I fell off the traverse, landed 3m below the roof 280m up. Wooohooo

14 22 20 Second lead by Yim

Lovely holds awkward moves, cool position

15 14 30 Sport lead by Hyahno Moser

So nice to Summit. Yeah

Sport 320m Very Good
Hyahno Moser
22 The Governor
1 19 25m Sport
2 20 25m Sport
3 20 20m Sport
4 16 25m Sport
5 18 15m Sport
6 21 20m Sport
7 21 20m Sport
8 18 20m Sport
9 14 25m Sport
10 17 15m Sport
11 21 20m Sport
12 20 20m Sport
13 22 20m Sport
14 22 20m Sport
15 14 30m Sport
Sport 320m
Thomas Zambon
I had a blast on this!

Was so cool to do it as a solo, and so cool just to tick it off. I've written up a bit about it, there's a link below if you're interested!

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1KaaosgCXBkD4ZvB9Sgwg6cACZ0z10sqzQhgyfCXCN28/edit?usp=sharing

 
Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with jaime toro
1 19 25m Sport lead by Daniel Razzino
2 20 25m Sport lead by Daniel Razzino
3 20 20m Sport lead by Daniel Razzino
4 16 25m Sport lead by Daniel Razzino
5 18 15m Second
6 21 20m Second lead by jaime toro
7 21 20m Second lead by jaime toro
8 18 20m Sport lead by Daniel Razzino
9 14 25m Sport lead by Daniel Razzino
10 17 15m Second lead by jaime toro
11 21 20m Second lead by jaime toro
12 20 20m Sport lead by jaime toro
13 22 20m Sport lead by Daniel Razzino

Tough one to onsight dropped it right at the last mantle the very technical

The roof part below was choss bricks

14 22 20m Second lead by jaime toro
15 14 30m Second lead by jaime toro
Sport 320m
Daniel Razzino
We linked pitches 1-2 3-4 6-7 8-9 10-11 12-13 14-15

The mantel on pitch 13 is very technical

Was abit hot today foot were on fire by the top

Good day out was 13 hours car to car and we wastes about 2 hours looking for rap and start of the route

 
Wed 16th Aug 2023 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Daygin Prescott Sport 320m Don't Bother
James Hurrey
Bigwall style.

 
Mon 31st Jul 2023 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Joshua Malherbe
1 19 25m Sport lead by Nick Gresham
2 20 25m Second lead by Joshua Malherbe
3 20 20m Second lead by Joshua Malherbe
4 16 25m Sport lead by Nick Gresham
5 18 15m Sport lead by Nick Gresham
6 21 20m Second lead by Joshua Malherbe
7 21 20m Sport lead by Nick Gresham
8 18 20m Sport lead by Nick Gresham
9 14 25m Second lead by Joshua Malherbe
10 17 15m Sport lead by Joshua Malherbe
11 21 20m Sport lead by Nick Gresham
12 20 20m Sport lead by Nick Gresham
13 22 20m Second lead by Joshua Malherbe
14 22 20m Sport lead by Nick Gresham
15 14 30m Sport lead by Nick Gresham
Sport 320m
Nick Gresham
Wasn't as hard to find as I thought, path seems pretty well defined at this point. Pitch seven was amazing, such awesome exposure. Also loved how much slab was on this climb absolutely epic!

 
22 The Governor - with Nick Gresham
1 19 25m Second
2 20 25m Sport
3 20 20m Sport
4 16 25m Second
5 18 15m Second
6 21 20m Sport
7 21 20m Second
8 18 20m Second
9 14 25m Sport
10 17 15m Sport
11 21 20m Second
12 20 20m Second
13 22 20m Aid
14 22 20m Second
15 14 30m Second
Sport 320m
Joshua Malherbe
More french than free! I blame the bag. Honestly the climbing was not as hard as the walk down. My legs are shaking even thinking about it.

 
Sat 29th Jul 2023 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Josiah Hess, me, dani hess
1 19 25m Sport lead by Josiah Hess
2 20 25m Sport lead by Josiah Hess
3 20 20m Sport
4 16 25m Sport
5 18 15m Sport lead by Josiah Hess
6 21 20m Sport lead by Josiah Hess
7 21 20m Sport
8 18 20m Sport
9 14 25m Sport lead by Josiah Hess
10 17 15m Sport lead by Josiah Hess
11 21 20m Sport
12 20 20m Sport
13 22 20m Sport lead by Josiah Hess
14 22 20m Sport lead by Josiah Hess
15 14 30m Sport lead by Josiah Hess
Sport 320m Very Good
Dani Hess
Fri 7th Jul 2023 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor
1 19 25m Sport
2 20 25m Second
3 20 20m Second
4 16 25m Sport
5 18 15m Sport
6 21 20m Second
7 21 20m Sport
8 18 20m Second
9 14 25m Second
10 17 15m Sport
11 21 20m Sport
12 20 20m Second
13 22 20m Sport
14 22 20m Sport
15 14 30m Second
Sport 320m
jack hatton
found the two crux pitches hard and terrifying, seductive problem solving tho

 
Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor Sport 320m
Breanna Slattery
Mon 22nd May 2023 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Bryn Norris
1 19 25m Second
2 20 25m Sport
3 20 20m Second
4 16 25m Second
5 18 15m Sport
6 21 20m Sport
7 21 20m Second
8 18 20m Sport
9 14 25m Sport
10 17 15m Second
11 21 20m Second
12 20 20m Sport
13 22 20m Sport
14 22 20m Second
15 14 30m Second
Sport 320m
Peter Forsyth
What an absurd adventure that will stick with me for the rest of my life! We both expected this route to be demanding and boy did it exceed all expectations. The early march up the mountain was really stunning, watching the layers of mountains slowly appear around us.

The route threw in its fair share of challenges, with a few crimps exploding here and there, but overall, it was epic. I found pitch 5 and 6 incredibly fun… traversing out into the abyss and gaining the odd jug to be able to turn around and bathe in the exposure, and then punching up into some great solid moves. Unreal.

To go from a totally unseasoned gym climber a couple of years ago and hearing about this mega, seemingly unattainable route, to gaining enough experience to get up it, was a very surreal moment for me. Big ups to Bryn for being a weapon of a partner to train and execute this with!

 
Sun 21st May 2023 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Peter Forsyth
1 19 25m Sport lead by Bryn Norris
2 20 25m Second lead by Peter Forsyth
3 20 20m Sport lead by Bryn Norris
4 16 25m Sport lead by Bryn Norris
5 18 15m Second lead by Peter Forsyth
6 21 20m Second lead by Peter Forsyth
7 21 20m Sport lead by Bryn Norris
8 18 20m Second lead by Peter Forsyth
9 14 25m Second lead by Peter Forsyth
10 17 15m Sport lead by Bryn Norris
11 21 20m Sport lead by Bryn Norris
12 20 20m Second lead by Peter Forsyth
13 22 20m Second lead by Peter Forsyth
14 22 20m Sport lead by Bryn Norris
15 14 30m Sport lead by Bryn Norris
Sport 320m
Bryn Norris
Mega push from the boys. Never had a more stressful day in my life - glad to have had such an experience. Highlights were the gorgeous sunrise, the horrible sounds that came out of my mouth climbing past the overhang on pitch 7, Laura's BBQ scrolls at the top of pitch 9, the absolute screamer I took on pitch 14, and the downright F tier banter (as usual). Won't ever forget the crazy mix of emotions I felt after getting back on the horse and pulling up to the anchors on pitch 14. What a day!

 
Tue 2nd May 2023 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Gus Mckelvie, StrongmanSam
1 19 25 Sport
2 20 25 Second
3 20 20 Sport
4 16 25 Sport
5 18 15 Second
6 21 20 Second
7 21 20 Sport
8 18 20 Sport
9 14 25 Second
10 17 15 Second
11 21 20 Sport
12 20 20 Sport
13 22 20 Second
14 22 20 Sport
15 14 30 Sport
Sport 320m
Tim Janetzki
What a lovely day out, bit of choss here and there, some interesting bolt placements and cool exposure up a nice big rock.

 
Mon 1st May 2023 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Tim Janetzki, Samuel Gough
1 19 25 Second
2 20 25 Second
3 20 20 Second
4 16 25 Second
5 18 15 Second
6 21 20 Second
7 21 20 Second
8 18 20 Sport
9 14 25 Second
10 17 15 Second
11 21 20 Second
12 20 20 Second
13 22 20 Second
14 22 20 Second
15 14 30 Second
Sport 320m Very Good
Gus Mckelvie
First multi-pitch and what an introduction! Huge thanks to Sam and Tim for taking me up this beautiful mountain! Just a fantastic experience! Even while seconding the whole route while in well over my head. There is definitely some choss to be found but overall a great time.

 
Fri 10th Mar 2023 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Brosnan Degenaar Sport 320m Very Good
Anthony Bristow
TheCrag doesn't seem to like long reports so if you are curious what went down check out my write-up

https://docs.google.com/document/d/18SIg9d7rgus3KcUzcFSZjeU_OgDu6f34RTONiXwW_rs/edit?usp=sharing

 
Thu 9th Mar 2023 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Anthony Bristow Sport 320m Very Good
Brosnan Degenaar
Mon 17th Oct 2022 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Cory Shearwin
1 19 25m lead by Brosnan Degenaar
2 20 25m
3 20 20m
4 16 25m
5 18 15m
6 21 20m
7 21 20m
8 18 20m
9 14 25m
10 17 15m
11 21 20m
12 20 20m
13 22 20m
14 22 20m
15 14 30m
Sport 320m Very Good
Brosnan Degenaar
Amazing day out. Perfect weather, somehow wasn't too hot the entire day.

The walk in was a great time, I'm glad we had done it a few weeks prior as to not be tricked by all the false summits. Slogging up all the gear on the day was a pain, but definitely better than having to carry up enough equipment to camp the night.

The climbing was a lot different than I imagined, lots of techy slab with perfectly sharp crimps the whole way up. The boulder problems and the traverse pitches were by far the best; providing fantastic moves and great exposure.

Highlight of the trip was watching Cory perform a near perfect backflip whilst on the top rope when a crucial well chalked hold exploded during the crux of the pitch 7. Glad the hold waited for me to get through the lead.

The climb took us longer than expected, mainly due to the second last pitch being absolutely soaked and the constant agony of climbing in bouldering shoes.

Although in hindsight it was really nice topping out at sunset, easily the best and most rewarding sunset I've ever experienced it made for a very sweet end to the climbing.

A great day out with a great mate.

 
Sat 15th Oct 2022 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Brosnan Degenaar
1 19 25m lead by Brosnan Degenaar
2 20 25m lead by Cory Shearwin
3 20 20m lead by Cory Shearwin
4 16 25m lead by Brosnan Degenaar
5 18 15m lead by Brosnan Degenaar
6 21 20m lead by Cory Shearwin
7 21 20m lead by Brosnan Degenaar
8 18 20m lead by Brosnan Degenaar
9 14 25m lead by Brosnan Degenaar
10 17 15m lead by Cory Shearwin
11 21 20m lead by Cory Shearwin
12 20 20m lead by Brosnan Degenaar
13 22 20m lead by Brosnan Degenaar
14 22 20m lead by Cory Shearwin
15 14 30m lead by Cory Shearwin
Sport 320m Classic
Cory Shearwin
Far out, what a massive day out!

It took a total of 16 hours from car to car. We started hiking at 5am and got to the rappel station at about 7:15. Chilled out, had some food and went down to the base for an 8:30 start. We expected to top out by about 4pm but life had other plans and we ended up topping out at 5:45. Seeing the sunset from the top of Mount Barney was so beautiful but hiking back down in the dark was not ideal. We got back to the car at 9:15 after about 3 hours of hiking (and getting lost a couple of times).

We were exhausted and sore but filled to the brim with stoke. Simply amazing.

The climbing:

The crux pitch was definitely the walk-in. Hiking up with 10kg of gear and water each was a struggle. We linked pitches 2-3, 4-5, 8-9, 10-11, 12-13, and 14-15. We only had trouble linking 2-3 because I ran out of draws just 2 bolts below the anchor. 16 draws just wasn't quite enough. Linking pitches 10-11 was necessary due to one of the quicklinks at the top of pitch 10 having a hole rusted through it. There was no way I'd set up a belay on that.

The rock was ok for the most part, but some bad rock caused me to have a mad whipper while seconding on pitch 7. I called for some slack and climbed up into the overhang. I was sorting out my feet to get a sick drop knee and reach over the lip to get ready to mantle. All of a sudden, the hold keeping me into the wall exploded and I launched off, with all the slack leaving me hanging upside down with my head in a bush. Luckily I wasn't injured and I was able to make the mantle without that hold. I was a bit shaken and let Bros lead the next couple of pitches while I settled down. That was the most excitement I've ever had on a top rope, that's for sure!

Other than that, there was some beautiful climbing to be done all throughout. Lots of slab, lots of sharp crimps, plenty of exposure and some amazing boulder moves mixed in. The standouts for me were the pitch 5 traverse with its great views and exposure, and pitch 11 with its super cool traversing moves over the void. I think pitch 14 would have been spectacular climbing, except the entire corner leading up to the third bolt was soaking wet. It took a tough bit of French aiding to get past that but then it was a sprint to the top on the last pitch. I reached the anchor and immediately felt such relief that we'd actually done it! The stoke is unmatched but the pain will keep me away, at least for a little while.

 
Tue 4th Oct 2022 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor Sport 320m
Haydn
Good climbing. Got charged by a pair of possums screaming war cries on the way down, pretty hilarious experience.

 
Mon 12th Sep 2022 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Dylan Glavas
1 19 25m
2 20 25m
3 20 20m
4 16 25m
5 18 15m
6 21 20m
7 21 20m
8 18 20m
9 14 25m
10 17 15m
11 21 20m
12 20 20m
13 22 20m
14 22 20m
15 14 30m
Sport 320m Classic
Lee Prescott
... What Dylan said..

What an epic mission. First time touching Barney rock, straight onto the East Face. Beautiful climbing on better than anticipated rock, with incredible exposure and surroundings! Some of the coolest moves I've done on a multi- standout has to be the bouldery moves on the 21 pitch! Had me whooping with glee. Sustained climbing throughout the 22's as well! Props too Dylan for leading the first, that was heinous with the bag.

Beautiful day out on one of the best faces in Queensland, what a day. I'm still not a fan of hiking though..

 
22 The Governor - with Lee Prescott
1 19 25m
2 20 25m
3 20 20m
4 16 25m
5 18 15m
6 21 20m
7 21 20m
8 18 20m
9 14 25m
10 17 15m
11 21 20m
12 20 20m
13 22 20m
14 22 20m
15 14 30m
Sport 320m Mega Classic
Dylan Glavas
WOOOOOOOOO! Fucking mega classic what an adventure. Rocked up back in Brissie and the day after straight into a solid white rock session. Sent hard, mega pub feed after then did out shopping.

Rocked up at yellow pinch carpark around 10/11pm and had a somewhat decent sleep on boulder mats under a full moon. The hype was real and it was intensifying. 5am wakeup, 6 hours sleep, being sore from the day before, a strong cup of prison blend, half a sub and racking our gear later we started walking around 620ish. Lee's first time up Barney so was tricked by every false peak, as we walked up we awed at the possible first ascents along the boulders on our way up, good times. The hype was real once reaching the drop off point, we ended up reaching the base of the climb at 10am. The "wooos!" were loud and we were stoked we had an amphitheater to cheer us right back on.

Straight into it with the 19, we learnt early that seconding with the bag SUCKS! Super good climbing from the get go, loved every pitch and to be honest the rock quality was not all that bad, too be fair it has been trafficked long before our ascent, still had to trundle one last death block around pitch 7. We linked pitches 2-3, 4-5, 8-9, 10-11, 12-13 & 14-15. The pitches individually are really short and most of them can be linked easily.

Standouts were the exposed boulder problem, the general exposure on the above belay, the solid crimpy climbing (all of it) and the gr 22 pitches. I had to fight for that first 22, had to do a big slap to the slopey shit over the lip and fully commit & even then it's not over! Seconding the second 22 was fucked, due to my error, coming around that first corner you need to reach up into a slot, I missed that slot and hit a razor sharp sloper, bearable but not for long... I go with my other hand for the slot, miss again and hit more razor sharp sloper, I kept slipping and slipping but no fucking chance I was letting go this far in!! Through persistence and psattt I finally got the slot while almost peeling off into the exposure below me, I trusted a slopey footer and pushed up to stand on a rest halfway into the pitch. More technical climbing ahead!

Topping out (near 5pm) was super satisfying, our success echoed through the couloir, Lee's firs time topping barney was via the east face, so sick. Sweet, now the walk back down, took for ever! Bit of ticker needed to get us back down that hill jeesus! We talked about how much food we were gonna eat and how fucking rewarding it would be. We hit the cars pull out the boulder mats, sit down, smash a 1/4 of a sub and some tofu scramble and just, be. 111/10 what a time with a good mate. Will be back on this face in the future. Stoked! Very visionary to bolt this line on such a daunting face, good effort and much appreciated.

 
Thu 11th Aug 2022 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Nathan Kenny Sport 320m Mega Classic
Blueoffset4lyf
atmospheric, got the lead on all the best pitches siic

 
22 The Governor Sport 320m Good
Nathan Kenny
I wasnt mentally prepared for just how rotten the rock was going to be. it makes the worse honeycombed sandstone choss look good. the rock brakes in big blocks and on little crimps and edges despite how much traffic it seems to get. there was a party below who knocked a few larger sized blocks off which was a bit exciting. luckily we didnt pull any blocks off. not as exposed as i was hoping, was mostly slabby and ledgy. pitch lengths were also shorter than on the crag. when we were linking pitches we werent get much past halfway on a 70m. a rough guess might be closer to 250m. i think what makes this climb good is the prominence to the surrounding land and the sufferfest that is the approach. would recommend to those seeking an all included adventure

 
Mon 8th Aug 2022 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with nathaniel glavurdic Sport 320m Classic
Luke Hef
Wed 3rd Aug 2022 - Mt Barney
East Peak
23 22 The Governor - with Liamtemp Sport 320m Very Good
Matthew Robbins
Awesome day out with Liamtemp and my second time up The Gov. There are some superb climbing sequences amongst all the dodgy rock

Started climbing sometime before 9am and topped out at 3pm; so roughly 6-6.5 hours on the route. We divvied up the leading as follows:

P1 Liam, P2+3 Matt (Linked), P4+5 Liam (Linked), P6 Matt, P7 Liam, P8+9+10 Matt (Linked), P11 Liam, P12 Matt, P13+14 Liam (Linked), P15 Matt.

Lastly, pitch 13 is stiff at the grade and in my opinion deserving of grade 23. I pulled through draws on 2nd for this pitch to save time but everything else done clean.

 
Sun 3rd Jul 2022 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Matthew Robbins Sport 320m
Liamtemp
Wed 17th Nov 2021 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor Sport 320m Good
Alex Mougenot
A great time up on Barney, and one of my all-time climbing experiences. An awesome mixture of head-game, climbing mileage, and involved rope skills which are all the things I love about climbing (apart from friends)!

Short: No falls. Camped on ridge. Woke up 2:30am. Started climbing 4:30am, topout 6:30pm. Linked p1/2, 3/4, 5/6, 7/8, 9/10, 11/12, 13/14. Weather was incredible.

Massive thanks to Dan Cox for coming out and being a support in case of rescue!

Long: Hiked up SE Ridge at 16:30 Monday to camp on the ridge bivy and get in 6 hours sleep only for a curious Antechinus to keep me up most the night. Woke up a bit before my 2:30 alarm, starting climbing at 4:30am and made my way to the top of pitch 12 by midday, linking up every 2 pitches, average 1h15 for climbing/rapping/jugging each 2 pitches. Felt really good, but by p11/12, my forearms + biceps started to cramp whilst climbing and jugging.

Had a good rest at the ledge below p13 getting fluids back, eating, and taking salt tablets for arm cramps. Dan Cox surprised me by rapping into the ledge below this to give me company and cleaned the crux pitches and talking through key holds. I wanted to climb the Gov this year to rehearse beta but didn't get the chance - I'm not certain I would have sent without Dan's help.

Dug deep and sent both crux pitches. Cleaning these was surprisingly tricky requiring many rebelays and a lower-out. Romped up the last pitch to beers on the summit with Dan and a cracker sunset! Then walked out with the help of a caffeine tablet and good chats!

Cheat codes/Tricks: Getting solid on switching between double and single jumaring systems. Learning lower-outs and transitioning through rebelays. Sun protection. Lots of hydrations. Energy gels and lollies in pockets. Zinc. Sunnies for eye fatigue in sun. Kong panic draws for sections where a lead solo fall really isn't ideal.

 
Tue 12th Oct 2021 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor Sport 320m Good
Alex Mougenot
Got up to pitch 7 rope solo, then backed off due to complications related negotiating with two other parties climbing the face on either side of me. Just was getting a bit too messy up there unfortunately.

Super stoked with systems and my ability - psyched to come back when the conditions allow! Was a pretty cool experience camping up on the ridge alone and climbing on the face. Fingers crossed for a less busy day next time.

 
Sun 10th Oct 2021 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor (The Governor p14) Sport 320m
Warren luck
Didn’t feel the flow

 
22 The Governor (The Governor p13) Sport 320m
Warren luck
Didn’t feel the flow

 
14 22 The Governor (The Governor p15) Sport 320m
Warren luck
14 22 The Governor (The Governor p15) Sport 320m
Warren luck
22 The Governor (The Governor p14) Sport 320m
Warren luck
Didn’t feel the flow

 
22 The Governor (The Governor p13) Sport 320m
Warren luck
Didn’t feel the flow

 
19 22 The Governor (The Governor p1) Sport 320m Average
Warren luck
Don’t use the tree

 
20 22 The Governor (The Governor p3) Sport 320m
Warren luck
Hard move over ledge, good holds flows

 
16 22 The Governor (The Governor p4) Sport 320m Average
Warren luck
14 22 The Governor (The Governor p9) Sport 320m
Warren luck
21 22 The Governor (The Governor p6) Sport 320m
Warren luck
17 22 The Governor (The Governor p10) Sport 320m
Warren luck
20 The Governor p2 Sport 320m
Warren luck
Some loose holds, nice flow though.

 
21 22 The Governor (The Governor p7) Sport 320m
Warren luck
Nice climbing

 
20 22 The Governor (The Governor p12) Sport 320m
Warren luck
Nice crux

 
18 22 The Governor (The Governor p5) Sport 320m
Warren luck
18 22 The Governor (The Governor p8) Sport 320m
Warren luck
21 22 The Governor (The Governor p11) Sport 320m
Warren luck
22 The Governor Sport 320m
Warren luck
Sat 9th Oct 2021 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Rowan Hess
1 19 25m
2 20 25m
3 20 20m lead by Carol L
4 16 25m lead by Carol L
5 18 15m
6 21 20m
7 21 20m lead by Carol L
8 18 20m lead by Carol L
9 14 25m
10 17 15m
11 21 20m lead by Carol L
12 20 20m lead by Carol L
13 22 20m
14 22 20m
15 14 30m lead by Carol L
Sport 320m Classic
Carol L
Wowza! This was a serious undertaking and a hard earned ascent (for me, anyways). 3 months after diving into the world of multipitches, this was a now or never moment at the end of the season. The toughest challenges of this climb were not the climb itself, but rather the approach / walk out, heat, and mental endurance. We started the hike at 3am, began climbing at 7:30am, and summited around 6pm. We camped at Old Hut (huge shout out to our support crew who hiked all our camping gear up the SE Ridge to buy us an entire day of climbing) and walked out via SE Ridge the following morning. Overall a spectacular adventure with some standout climbing that humbled me (:

Pitch 1: A truly rude introduction, I got stuck at the first bolt for a silly amount of time and encountered enough choss to warn me of the journey ahead.

Pitch 2: Similarly rude with a reachy start. Ran into a bail biner!

Pitch 3: A fun little climb with easy overhangs. Soft for the grade.

Pitch 4: Fun, juggy, and ends at a great shady belay station! Some scary loose blocks that require good foot placement to avoid.

Pitch 5: Nice little traverse. Don't forget to turn around and enjoy the view!

Pitch 6: Would have been lovely if not for some reachy moves that naturally annoyed my midget self. Not fun with a heavy backpack!

Pitch 7: An absolute heart-stopper that had me nervously giggling under the roof, and maniacally cackling as I pulled over it! My absolutely favourite pitch of the whole climb. The hidden bolt is pretty tricky to clip if you have short reach, but well protected once you get it.

Pitch 8: Didn't find this particularly hard "off the deck", but maybe that was because I had just come off the adrenaline of the pitch prior. Loved the exposure on this.

Pitch 9: I did this in my joggers instead of climbing shoes to give my feet a break. Made it way more exciting than it needed to be, would not recommend.

Pitch 10: A nice jug haul. If you want to accidentally drop something out of your backpack on The Governor, I recommend doing it on this pitch so it can be retrieved from the ledge below. Had to climb this twice, I'll let you deduce why...

Pitch 11: I found the traverse very difficult with short reach / height, but the rest of it was thought provoking and enjoyable.

Pitch 12: Don't be a hero, go right to avoid the choss!

Pitch 13: Technical and exposed with some really satisfying moves! The crux was tough as balls and I have no idea how I would have done it on lead. Kudos to my climbing partner.

Pitch 14: Originally hoped to lead this but was pretty out of puff and concerned about daylight. Not sure who would describe the start as a "ramp" to the right. Definitely not wheelchair accessible and trickier than it looks!

Pitch 15: A true victory lap.

Overall - don't let the first few pitches discourage you, I found the middle pitches to be the best climbing with great views. A very well protected climb the whole way up, kudos to the legend who set this climb! I wouldn't have done this any later in the year, the sun / heat is merciless and will burn your toesies on the wall. Look forward to coming back next season with a little more preparation, cooler weather, and comfy shoes. I'm eyeing you, crux pitches!

 
Sat 25th Sep 2021 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Alex Mougenot Sport 320m
Kwan Goddard Lee
Shenanigans

 
Fri 24th Sep 2021 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Brennan Bast
1 19 25 Sport lead by Troy McAndrew
2 20 25 Sport lead by Brennan Bast
3 20 20 Sport lead by Troy McAndrew
4 16 25 Sport lead by Brennan Bast
5 18 15 Sport lead by Troy McAndrew
6 21 20 Sport lead by Troy McAndrew
7 21 20 Sport lead by Brennan Bast
8 18 20 Sport lead by Brennan Bast
9 14 25 Sport lead by Troy McAndrew
10 17 15 Sport lead by Troy McAndrew
11 21 20 Sport lead by Brennan Bast
12 20 20 Sport lead by Brennan Bast
13 22 20 Sport lead by Troy McAndrew
14 22 20 Sport lead by Troy McAndrew
15 14 30 Sport lead by Brennan Bast
Sport 320m Classic
Troy McAndrew
Glad I layed off the darts and beers this week because this was a serious undertaking. Not so much the climbing but the long approach in and the walk out, I felt like a new born giraffe by the end of it. Some great pitches and some choss but overall a awesome adventure.

 
Mon 23rd Aug 2021 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Kallin Willis
1 19 25m lead by Kallin Willis
2 20 25m lead by Oscar Bassi
3 20 20m lead by Kallin Willis
4 16 25m lead by Kallin Willis
5 18 15m lead by Oscar Bassi
6 21 20m lead by Oscar Bassi
7 21 20m lead by Kallin Willis
8 18 20m lead by Kallin Willis
9 14 25m lead by Oscar Bassi
10 17 15m lead by Oscar Bassi
11 21 20m lead by Kallin Willis
12 20 20m lead by Kallin Willis
13 22 20m lead by Oscar Bassi
14 22 20m lead by Kallin Willis
15 14 30m lead by Kallin Willis
Sport 320m Mega Classic
Oscar Bassi
Phenomenal adventure! Camped the night before the abseil. Such an epic place to wake up and start climbing.

Thanks Alex Mougenot for the beta to hit that first shiny bolt! Saved us so much time and wouldn't have been as successful with out ya. Its still quite an amazing adventure to get your way there. Cheers!

From the abseil to the nice and shiny first bolt (stoked to find this so quickly) took about 45min till the path ran out.

P1 18 - quirky start with small feet and wandered a bit.

P2 20 - bit loose in sections and a nice warm up

P3 20 - bit of a gross mantle

P4 16 - felt like a bolted trad pitch, a nice adventure route.

P5 18 - stellar traverse, solid and nice and airy

P6 21 - lets add some more air and get the pump going, enjoyed this

P7 21 - Peri Peri! Bit tricky to read but great fun

P8 18 - fridge?

P9 14 - adventure

P10 17 - Great views of of the ridgelines

P11 21 - Legendary! Has to be experienced to be believed

P12 20 - more spice than P11. Still a bit hollow in spots, was waiting for that crimp to blow but it held on! tough.

P13 22 - phoar!!!! Loved this pitch....wasabi!

P14 22 - Best air on the climb, mint...that bucket was unexpected

p15 14 - I ran up this pitch I was so happy. Yeoooooooow!

Looks like there could be some new lines or variations to the route that would go down in such a stellar position in south east Queensland.

 
22 The Governor - with Oscar Bassi
1 19 25m lead by Kallin Willis
2 20 25m lead by Oscar Bassi
3 20 20m lead by Kallin Willis
4 16 25m lead by Kallin Willis
5 18 15m lead by Oscar Bassi
6 21 20m lead by Oscar Bassi
7 21 20m lead by Kallin Willis
8 18 20m lead by Kallin Willis
9 14 25m lead by Oscar Bassi
10 17 15m lead by Oscar Bassi
11 21 20m lead by Kallin Willis
12 20 20m lead by Kallin Willis
13 22 20m lead by Oscar Bassi
14 22 20m lead by Kallin Willis
15 14 30m lead by Kallin Willis
Sport 320m Very Good
Kallin Willis
What a wicked adventure this climb is and kudos to the blokes that bolted it. Such a stellar climb in a unique location. Some pitches were a bit average with rock quality but that just added to the fun. The top half of the route is by far the most interesting but the lower pitches are unique in their own way. Took us about 7hrs to do the climb, we did it in 9 pitches with a 60m rope.

Happy to say I only took 1 rest on the rope seconding the 1st 22 pitch (pitch 13), and oh boy what a spicy pitch it is!!

A couple pitches feel a bit shorter then what is suggested but the rest seem to be on the money in that regard.

This adventure was as difficult as I thought it would be with regards to logistics, timing, mental commitment and shear physical effort. But bloody hell it is well worth it all when you hit those top chains

 
Thu 8th Jul 2021 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Jess
1 19 25m
2 20 25m
3 20 20m
4 16 25m
5 18 15m
6 21 20m
7 21 20m
8 18 20m
9 14 25m
10 17 15m
11 21 20m
12 20 20m
13 22 20m
14 22 20m
15 14 30m
Sport 320m Classic
Ryan Macpherson
What an amazing achievement it is to have found and developed this route, deserves all the stars for such a unique line something quite rare in Australia, that actually climbs really well! First few pitches where sub par and I truly disliked the 1st pitch, though the higher you got the rock quality was amazing with fun delicate movement & more jammys then I was expecting

Although this is a sports route, it is very much a mountain climb and shouldn’t be taken lightly, with knowledge of mountain climbing and a traditional background recommended - bolting causes some bad fall potential in areas an it’s definitely R on some pitches, though I felt well protected for the most part and the choss is easily avoided if you take you time looking for the right holds This route is only going to get better the more it’s frequent

Psyched! We did the route in 10pitches and I was very happy with a fall free day, on the summit at 330pm started heading down just after 420...

 
Wed 23rd Jun 2021 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Evie Simpson
1 19 25m lead by Patrick Munnings
2 20 25m lead by Evie Simpson
3 20 20m lead by Patrick Munnings
4 16 25m lead by Evie Simpson
5 18 15m lead by Patrick Munnings
6 21 20m lead by Evie Simpson
7 21 20m lead by Evie Simpson
8 18 20m lead by Patrick Munnings
9 14 25m lead by Patrick Munnings
10 17 15m lead by Evie Simpson
11 21 20m lead by Evie Simpson
12 20 20m lead by Patrick Munnings
13 22 20m lead by Patrick Munnings
14 22 20m lead by Evie Simpson
15 14 30m lead by Evie Simpson
Sport 320m Good
Patrick Munnings
Great position and adventure, terrible rock climb. Pitch 13 was the worst rock on the route and simultaneously the physical crux. I blew 5 footholds and evie ripped both handholds at the same time. This section felt 2 grades harder than pitch 14 and the friable rock made it harder again. All in all we had a wonderful day out and were completely knackered on return to the cars.

 
Sun 11th Oct 2020 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Angie
1 19 25m lead by Dave OS
2 20 25m lead by Angie
3 20 20m lead by Dave OS
4 16 25m lead by Dave OS
5 18 15m lead by Angie
6 21 20m lead by Dave OS
7 21 20m lead by Dave OS
8 18 20m lead by Angie
9 14 25m lead by Angie
10 17 15m lead by Dave OS
11 21 20m lead by Dave OS
12 20 20m lead by Angie
13 22 20m lead by Dave OS
14 22 20m lead by Angie
15 14 30m lead by Angie
Sport 320m Very Good
Dave OS
Wild day out with my awesome friend Angie!

 
22 The Governor - with Dave OS
1 19 25m lead by Dave OS
2 20 25m lead by Angie
3 20 20m lead by Dave OS
4 16 25m lead by Dave OS
5 18 15m lead by Angie
6 21 20m lead by Dave OS
7 21 20m lead by Dave OS
8 18 20m lead by Angie
9 14 25m lead by Angie
10 17 15m lead by Dave OS
11 21 20m lead by Dave OS
12 20 20m lead by Angie
13 22 20m lead by Dave OS
14 22 20m lead by Angie
15 14 30m lead by Angie
Sport 320m
Angie
What a wild adventure with my wonderful friend David!

 
Sat 10th Oct 2020 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor
1 19
2 20
3 20
4 16
5 18
6 21
7 21
8 18
9 14
10 17
11 21
12 20
13 22
14 22
15 14
Sport 320m Classic
Scott
Sat 3rd Oct 2020 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Ryan Siacci
1 19 25m lead by Ryan Siacci
2 20 25m lead by David Jefferson
3 20 20m lead by Ryan Siacci
4 16 25m lead by Ryan Siacci
5 18 15m lead by David Jefferson
6 21 20m lead by Ryan Siacci
7 21 20m lead by David Jefferson
8 18 20m lead by Ryan Siacci
9 14 25m lead by Ryan Siacci
10 17 15m lead by David Jefferson
11 21 20m lead by David Jefferson
12 20 20m lead by Ryan Siacci
13 22 20m lead by David Jefferson
14 22 20m lead by David Jefferson
15 14 30m lead by Ryan Siacci
Sport 320m Very Good
David Jefferson
We approached The Governor with few expectations, other than anticipating a long day and perhaps some hard climbing near the top. I'm well chuffed with the outcome, with both of us onsighting every pitch and topping out after just 5.5 hours of climbing. We didn't really try to move fast or cut any corners, but nevertheless everything went super smoothly. All told, we needed 12 hours to get up and down, leaving Barney Lodge at 3am and arriving back at 3pm, all while taking a comfy break for lunch on the summit and two breaks to brew coffee.

This was a special experience in so many ways, particularly because Ryan and I assumed that it wouldn't happen this season after I busted my ankle in late July. Fortunately, recovery has been effective, and the ankle felt stable all day. Overall, a great experience with a great friend - thanks Ryan for an amazing day out (and for gifting me the crux pitches while carrying the pack)!

 
Fri 18th Sep 2020 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor
1 19 25m
2 20 25m
3 20 20m
4 16 25m
5 18 15m
6 21 20m
7 21 20m
8 18 20m
9 14 25m
10 17 15m
11 21 20m
12 20 20m
13 22 20m
14 22 20m
15 14 30m
Sport 320m Classic
Adam Sanders
Climbed everything but the crux move on the first 22 clean. Man oh man what a route! First big outing at this grade. Been worth the two years working towards this goal.

 
Fri 14th Aug 2020 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with SLCD Sport 320m Mega Classic
Scott
Sat 25th Jul 2020 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor Sport 320m Very Good
claire xian
Sat 18th Jul 2020 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Antoine Chandonnet
1 19 25m lead by Sam Pearson
2 20 25m lead by Antoine Chandonnet
3 20 20m lead by Sam Pearson
4 16 25m lead by Antoine Chandonnet
5 18 15m lead by Antoine Chandonnet
6 21 20m lead by Sam Pearson
7 21 20m lead by Antoine Chandonnet
8 18 20m lead by Antoine Chandonnet
9 14 25m lead by Sam Pearson
10 17 15m lead by Sam Pearson
11 21 20m lead by Antoine Chandonnet
12 20 20m lead by Antoine Chandonnet
13 22 20m lead by Sam Pearson
14 22 20m lead by Antoine Chandonnet
15 14 30m lead by Antoine Chandonnet
Sport 320m Very Good
Sam Pearson
One of the most enjoyable days climbing I've ever had. Big thanks to Chando for the superb company! It's obviously important to have a strong partner, but equally if not more important to have a super positive one!

Rock quality & bolting: Found the danger/scary reputation to be quite over hyped. Imo this climb is well bolted. There are a few chossy holds, and we both ripped a few pieces off, but I don't think this characteristic alone should dissuade future punters from getting on it.

The climbing: Pitch one gives a good reflection for the rest of the route, a surprising reliance on slabby/precise footwork and edging. Antoine and I found that we settled into the 'style' of the route after about 3/4 pitches, from this point forward, our climbing became a lot more fluent.

The Strategy: Took two packs up to the rap in, left one there with water and food for the descent. For the climbing, we opted for the kirkpatrick approach and took one pack that was carried by the second. We found this to be quite a psychological boon, as it made the leads super appealing! 2L water each, left 2L at the rap in. If you're set on onsighting the whole thing (which is surprisingly achievable) haul the pack for the crux pitches and maybe pitch 2 (I found the pack makes stepping around the bulge difficult).

Timings: 02:00 awake. 03:00 start hiking. 05:00 arrived at rap in. 07:00 started climbing. 13:00 topped out. 16:00 back at carpark.

 
22 The Governor - with Sam Pearson
1 19 25m lead by Sam Pearson
2 20 25m lead by Antoine Chandonnet
3 20 20m lead by Sam Pearson
4 16 25m lead by Antoine Chandonnet
5 18 15m lead by Antoine Chandonnet
6 21 20m lead by Sam Pearson
7 21 20m lead by Antoine Chandonnet
8 18 20m lead by Antoine Chandonnet
9 14 25m lead by Sam Pearson
10 17 15m lead by Sam Pearson
11 21 20m lead by Antoine Chandonnet
12 20 20m lead by Antoine Chandonnet
13 22 20m lead by Sam Pearson
14 22 20m lead by Antoine Chandonnet
15 14 30m lead by Antoine Chandonnet
Sport 320m
Antoine Chandonnet
The word “epic” is generally overused, but this was indeed an epic day with an equally epic partner. Highlights include:

  • The approach in the dark of night
  • Dawn
  • Pitch 7 with some bouldery moves high off the deck
  • Pitch 14 (technical and a bit spicy)
  • Sam almost getting bitten by a brown snake
  • Pizza afterwards

Onsighted every pitch except for a rest while seconding pitch 13. Overall, while it’s a more serious undertaking than your average multi and requires solid planning, it didn’t feel as daunting as its reputation suggests. Just a long and slightly committing multi.

Big thanks to Sam and Kyle for figuring out the logistics perfectly, which resulted in a very smooth day.

 
Sat 6th Jun 2020 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Matthew Robbins
1 19 25m lead by Matthew Robbins
2 20 25m lead by hipyhop
3 20 20m lead by hipyhop
4 16 25m lead by Matthew Robbins
5 18 15m lead by Matthew Robbins
6 21 20m lead by hipyhop
7 21 20m lead by Matthew Robbins
8 18 20m lead by hipyhop
9 14 25m lead by hipyhop
10 17 15m lead by hipyhop
11 21 20m lead by Matthew Robbins
12 20 20m lead by Matthew Robbins
13 22 20m lead by hipyhop
14 22 20m lead by Matthew Robbins
15 14 30m lead by hipyhop
Sport 320m Very Good
hipyhop
It was great to get this done after two false-starts due to unexpected weather conditions. This time the planets aligned and conditions were as good as they could be.

We opted for a later start and a more relaxed morning, and rapped in at 7:45 and set off climbing at 8:30. Thanks to all the beta on here, we had no trouble finding the first bolt. We savoured the moment and took our time on the climb and topped out just under 8 hours later. One hang on the rope on pitch 6, and a spot of french-free style to speed up pitch 13 . Big props to Matthew Robbins for leading the crux pitch 14.

Most pitch lengths are over estimated or correct, we didn't feel any pitches were longer than described.

 
22 The Governor - with hipyhop Sport 320m Classic
Matthew Robbins
Wow, what an incredible route and all round experience! Huge thanks to hipyhop for a perfect day out.

This was our third attempt to do The Governor this past year; the first two attempts aborted due to high-precipitation soaking the rock overnight.

Therefore, some weather beta: Mt Barney's summit seems to have a micro-climate. If you are aiming to do The Governor and the forecast is cloudy with high-humidity, best to skip it and wait for a clear, still night. From our experience, any clouds on the summit overnight == soaked rock in the morning.

The Governor might be a "sport" climb on The Crag but I'd say this is an adventure style route. Expect a long, arduous day with a 1100 vertical meter approach + descent, 12-16 hours min if doing it without camping/bivvying, loose rock, dynamic weather, hand/foot holds popping regularly plus lots of sustained climbing. Rescue skills like prussiking and z-drags are important to have and I'd recommend taking a PLB if you have one (just in case).

In summary, it's a challenging and beautiful Tasmanian-esque adventure in SE Queensland!

Get on it, it's awesome.

 
Thu 28th May 2020 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Dimo
1 19 25m lead by dean gainsford
2 20 25m lead by Dimo
3 20 20m lead by dean gainsford
4 16 25m lead by Dimo
5 18 15m lead by dean gainsford
6 21 20m lead by Dimo
7 21 20m lead by Dimo
8 18 20m lead by dean gainsford
9 14 25m lead by Dimo
10 17 15m lead by Dimo
11 21 20m lead by dean gainsford
12 20 20m lead by dean gainsford
13 22 20m lead by dean gainsford
14 22 20m lead by dean gainsford
15 14 30m lead by dean gainsford
Sport 320m Mega Classic
dean gainsford
This route took me 3 attempts to find the frist bolt. In the process I almost lost a mate and managed to return some of Steve Turners gear to his family. It has been a journey and I've seen that this mountain is forever changing! The crux of this climb is the logistics of the approach and desent. One slip due to fatigue or haste in the wrong place could spell disaster. Huge respect for the route setters, what an undertaking!

The climb is well bolted and easy to follow except for the crux of pitch 14 which has a hidden bolt above the overhang to the left.

Additional Approach Beta: After ascending the S.E Ridge boulder problem, turn right at the obvious camp site. Follow the face down and rapell 35m approx. Once on the scree slope, head left and along the bottom of the face for 50m to the obvious end. Head out left over the boulder and up onto the vegetated ledge where the bolt is 10m along and 3m up.

 
Mon 30th Sep 2019 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Alex Mougenot
1 19 25m lead by Alex Mougenot
2 20 25m lead by Alex Mougenot
3 20 20m lead by Alex Mougenot
4 16 25m lead by Matt Martin
5 18 15m lead by Matt Martin
6 21 20m lead by Alex Mougenot
7 21 20m lead by Alex Mougenot
8 18 20m lead by Matt Martin
9 14 25m lead by Matt Martin
10 17 15m lead by Alex Mougenot
11 21 20m lead by Alex Mougenot
12 20 20m lead by Alex Mougenot
13 22 20m lead by Alex Mougenot
14 22 20m lead by Alex Mougenot
15 14 30m lead by Matt Martin
Sport 320m Classic
Matt Martin
22 The Governor - with Matt Martin
1 19 25m lead by Alex Mougenot
2 20 25m lead by Alex Mougenot
3 20 20m lead by Alex Mougenot
4 16 25m lead by Matt Martin
5 18 15m lead by Matt Martin
6 21 20m lead by Alex Mougenot
7 21 20m lead by Alex Mougenot
8 18 20m lead by Matt Martin
9 14 25m lead by Matt Martin
10 17 15m lead by Alex Mougenot
11 21 20m lead by Alex Mougenot
12 20 20m lead by Alex Mougenot
13 22 20m lead by Alex Mougenot
14 22 20m lead by Alex Mougenot
15 14 30m lead by Matt Martin
Sport 320m Classic
Alex Mougenot
Awestruck as always by the atmosphere up on the East Face. The Governor really is a classic! It's technical, it's classy, there are slabs, overhangs, and vert, there's exposure, there are views, and there's arvo shade. And it's sustained as! There's only 2 casual pitches on the whole thing.

Mega props to Matt Martin for pulling this off! Matt fought deep to get to the top of the Gov and gave it everything. Was so epic to watch all of Matt's effort and passion that he put into working up to the Gov. Keep an eye out for his doco. Really fun day out on the mountain with him and the crew (Josh G, Ris, James and Henri!), and due to not climbing routes for a a while and having some big exercise days without resting before The Gov I had to work pretty hard!

Note: Because ego I have to say that the fall on p13 was to shoot a meme vid hahaha. That said, I was still having to work hard at the crux on that pitch - stiff 22/23?

 
Mon 30th Oct 2017 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with William Kendall Sport 320m Very Good
Alex Waterhouse
Tue 26th Sep 2017 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Alex Waterhouse
1 lead by Alex
2 lead by Will
3 lead by Will
4 lead by Alex
5 lead by Alex
6 lead by Will
7 lead by Will
8 lead by Alex
9 lead by Alex
10 lead by Will
11 lead by Will
12 lead by Alex
13 lead by Will
14 lead by Will
15 lead by Alex
Sport 320m Very Good
William Kendall
This was my second time climbing the governor, first time was in August 2016. I am still confused as to why I agreed to climb this again. It's one of those climbs that you will remember, but not necessarily enjoy at the time.

It's a huge adventure and definitely requires good head space, the rock is fairly average in a few places and there are a number of ledgy falls. I was pretty exhausted so pulled on a few draws in the tough sections.

Self-rescue skills and bulk water is recommended. We left some water and excess gear at the landing (about 80% of the way up the south-east ridge) prior to abseiling down to the east face. We took about 2 litres of water each on the climb itself which wasn't enough.

The temperature on the day was above the 30 degree mark, at midday the rock was burning our feet on the black rock belay ledges. Do not recommend attempting in hot weather. Keep in mind that this climb cops sun until about 2pm in the afternoon.

The hike down after a big day feels endless.

 
Tue 12th Sep 2017 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor (The Governor Linkup 2+3) - with Sean Peters
1 lead by Sean
2 linkup 2+3 , lead by Elias
3 lead by Elias
4 lead by Sean
5 linkup 5+6 , lead by Elias
6 lead by Elias
7 linkup 7+8 , lead by Elias
8 lead by Elias
9 lead by Sean
10 linkup 10+11 , lead by Elias
11 lead by Elias
12 linkup 12+13 , lead by Elias
13 lead by Elias
14 lead by Elias
15 lead by Sean
Sport 320m
Elias
Sean basically has already said all in his comment. I'm glad we've done it, but I'd surely not do it again. If you're seeking a long, adventurous day with some alpine characteristics, go for it.

 
Sat 9th Sep 2017 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Peter Kehoe Sport 320m
Tom Baanders
Sat 22nd Jul 2017 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Niko Eltarenko
1 lead by Tom
2 lead by Niko
3 lead by Tom
4 lead by Niko
5 lead by Tom
6 lead by Niko
7 lead by Tom
8 lead by Niko
9 lead by Tom
10 lead by Niko
11 lead by Tom
12 lead by Niko
13 lead by Tom
14 lead by Niko
15 lead by Tom
Sport 320m Mega Classic
Tom Collins
To start thanks Lachlan, Ro and Alex for access information, greatly appreciated!

Second: P2 - We attempted to replace one of the mallions, after 30min got 90% of one of the mallions undone and then proceeded to drop vice grips down to the bottom off climb (warning - this means that the mallion is still undone), the new 10mm mallion has been left up there if next party can attempt to undo... Apologies for any inconvenience we where trying to do the correct thing.. Fortunately a small locking biner/ quick draw still fits next to it.

P3 - Left 2*10mm mallions attached to old ones

P5 - Managed to remove horrendously rusted mallion and replace with new 10mm.

For reference - the majority of mallions on climb are 8mm steel... Now for the climb!

Where to start! What an adventure had so much fun on this thing!

P1 - Not as bad as I was expecting but definitely not a standout pitch. (OS - Lead)

P2 - Not super memorable but still fun (OS - TR)

P3 - Good climbing - (OS - Lead)

P4 - Unmemorable? (OS - TR)

P5 - Now where talking lovley face/slab climbing never feeling to hard but exposure creeping up, great fun (OS - Lead)

P6 - Don't really remember except I'm glad I wasn't on lead found this really hard and had to fight pretty hard to make it to anchors! (OS - TR)

P7 - Yes this pitch is where it started for me, fucking loved it super fun committing boulder problems with alot of air, was so psyched with this pitch!! (OS - Lead)

P8 - Good fun climbing (OS - TR)

P9 - As per route description give me pitch! (but actually quite fun climbing!) (OS - Lead)

P10 - really good climbing, great rock down low with really nice movment. (OS - TR)

P11 - Really enjoyed this pitch, kind of sequency but great movment. (OS - Lead)

P12 - Really enjoyed climbing on this pitch, shame about crumbling crimps! (OS - TR)

P13 - Holy shit I had to fight hard for this one! Don't remember what I did at all coming up out of the over hang of this one except that I don't know how I stayed on haha. Recomposed to see fairly tricky looking slab. Loved it awesome. (OS - Lead)

P14 - Good job Niko again glad I wasn't on lead for this one, although really fun endurance climbing followed by some what I found to be extremely strenuous moves (did not feel 22 but fatigue?) into some lovley nice wet moss would of been exciting on lead... (OS-TR)

P15 - Auto pilot ran up this. (OS - Lead)

What a day 3 hours sleep, 4am started hiking, 9.20am started the route, 5.27pm summit (30min unsuccessfully spent on pitch 2), hugs and a great sunset to finish off a great climb and day! Back to Lower bivy Point by 6.20pm, retrieved rope fed and watered walking out by 7pm back to the car at 10.20pm ish.

What a climb and adventure totally recommend it...

Thanks Niko for the day out loved it!

 
Sun 2nd Jul 2017 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Cal Sport 320m Classic
Calvin
Sun 20th Nov 2016 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Chris Ahlgren Sport 320m Mega Classic
Lachlan
Lead odds, seconded evens. Climbed in just under seven hours, car to car a little under sixteen. Incredible...

 
22 The Governor - with Lachlan Sport 320m Very Good
Chris Ahlgren
Every inch of my body hurts today, but damn it was worth it. Psych couldn't have been higher as I clipped the chains after climbing the final pitch of 22 onsight. Thought the corner at the start of p12 was especially fun. The crux is not the climbing itself put pulling those moves with raw fingers and screaming toes at the end of such a long day. Pulled on some draws when seconding cause I'm a lazy bastard.

Swung leads with Lachie. He took odds I took evens.

Severely botched the approach. Took us 5 hours! Managed to do the climb in just under 7hrs. Car to car in 15.5 hours. 2 shattered men.

 
Sun 21st Aug 2016 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor
1 lead by Dave
2 lead by Me
3 lead by Me
4 lead by Dave
5 lead by Dave
6 lead by Me
7 lead by Me
8 lead by Dave
9 lead by Dave
10 lead by Me
11 lead by Me
12 lead by Me
13 lead by Me
14 lead by Me
15 lead by Dave
Sport 320m Good
Alex Mougenot
Didn't fall once on the whole route. Stoked. Lead all crux pitches, too, and really pushed myself mentally again. Happy to show improvement and put this old dog to rest. It was a cool experience to feel myself becoming more and more accustomed to the flow of the rock as we progressed. Great to revisit it. In my eyes, The Governor is a Queensland adventure classic. Updated description to come.

 
Thu 18th Feb 2016 - Mt Barney
East Peak
14 22 The Governor (The Governor p9) Sport 320m Mega Classic
zac
17 The Governor p10 Sport 320m Mega Classic
zac
dan linked pitch 10 and 11 together

 
21 The Governor p11 Sport 320m Mega Classic
zac
20 22 The Governor (The Governor p12) Sport 320m Mega Classic
zac
22 The Governor p13 Sport 320m Crap
zac
dan linked pitch 13 and 14 together. fell because off holds breaking really chossy pitches

 
22 The Governor p14 Sport 320m Mega Classic
zac
14 22 The Governor (The Governor p15) Sport 320m Mega Classic
zac
solo, didnt bother with the bolts. made good time on the climb! started walking in from the car park at 5:10am got back to the car park at 3:15pm! with out rushing.

 
19 The Governor p1 Sport 320m Mega Classic
zac
20 22 The Governor (The Governor p2) Sport 320m Mega Classic
zac
20 The Governor p3 Sport 320m Mega Classic
zac
16 22 The Governor (The Governor p4) Sport 320m Mega Classic
zac
18 The Governor p5 Sport 320m Mega Classic
zac
21 22 The Governor (The Governor p6) Sport 320m Mega Classic
zac
21 The Governor p7 Sport 320m Mega Classic
zac
18 22 The Governor (The Governor p8) Sport 320m Mega Classic
zac
linked pitch 8 and 9 together

 
Sat 4th Jul 2015 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor - with Tom Cramer Sport 320m Very Good
Jayd Blunden
A good day out. Definitely get your adventure climbing head on for this one. Climbed with Tom Cramer. Mostly clean except for the Gr 22 pitches - felt hard at the end of the day - a couple of rests here and there. Wasn't as chossy as many trip reports would have had us believe. Left the Yellowpinch car park at 6am - climbing by 9am. 6.5 hours climbing.

Leads: P1 - Jayd. P2 - Tom. P3&4 link - Jayd. P5 - Tom. P6&7 link - Tom. P8&9&10 mega link - Jayd. P11&12 link - Jayd. P13&14&15 link - Tom.

 
Tue 9th Sep 2014 - Mt Barney
East Peak
22 The Governor Sport 320m Good
Alex Mougenot
Bloody awesome experience. The overall route is great. Beware of the loose blocks throughout. A party of 2 is ideal. 4 is less than ideal. Getting enveloped in cloud at the crux pitches at the very end was absolutely surreal.

 
Mon 8th Sep 2014 - Mt Barney
East Peak
17 The Governor p10 Sport 320m
Alex Mougenot
Ash linked pitches 10 and 11.

 
21 The Governor p11 Sport 320m
Alex Mougenot
Awesome fun stepping out into the corner and working your way up and out of it.

 
20 22 The Governor (The Governor p12) Sport 320m
Alex Mougenot
22 The Governor p13 Sport 320m
Alex Mougenot
Destroyed me!

 
22 The Governor p14 Sport 320m
Alex Mougenot
Absolutely spanked mentally at this pitch. Gave this pitch to Ash, who fought it awesomely Pitches 13 and 14 will be the reason that I will return to The Governor. Gotta prove to the mountain that I can better these crux pitches. Pitch 14 seems to have been bolted so that you can't dog through it easily. Bloody perfect, in my opinion - a final challenge at the crux pitch to test your mental strength when the top is close enough that you can taste it. Just to see how bad you really want it.

 
14 22 The Governor (The Governor p15) Sport 320m
Alex Mougenot
Runout, and mossy. But easy and juggy.

 
19 The Governor p1 Sport 320m
Alex Mougenot
Clean. A lot more difficult than it looks. Avoid the large loose flake to the left and below the belay station. Should've removed it.

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 132 ascents.

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