Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | ||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Jonno Rau | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
The left is indeed less awkward starting the slab. But most of the fun is below that.
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Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Millenium Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Ring Them Bells - with Jonno Rau | 15m, 6 | Average | |||
Been a while. Prob too far left at 1st bolt.
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Sat 2nd Mar 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
19 | ★★ Up N Away - with Gareth | 10m | Average | |||
A bit bloody sharp.
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Mon 5th Feb 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
20 ~19 | ★ Sundowning Syndrome - with Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 20m, 5 | Average | |||
A bit squeezed at the top.
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Thu 4th Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
20 Hard | ★★ Great Scott - with Justin Wimmer, Gareth | 27m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sun 10th Dec 2023 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
Chunderosa Buttress | ||||||
18 Easy | ★★ Hannah Louise - with Jonno Rau | 30m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 23rd Oct 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
17 | ★★ The Mad Hatter - with Gareth | 20m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Loose bolt tightening. Horrified at how much more extensive the trampled earth is and the extra tracks coming in. Unsustainable.
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Bete Noire Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Time Flies - with Jonno Rau | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
1 grunty move gives it the grade. A bit spoogy at present.
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Sat 9th Sep 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
16 ~16 Hard | ★ Bonne Anne - with Jonno Rau | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
18 Hard | ★ Roadweary - with Jonno Rau | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
16 ~16 Hard | ★ Bonne Anne - with Jonno Rau | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 19th Aug 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
16 ~16 Hard | ★ Bonne Anne - with Jonno Rau | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
16 | ★ Serife - with Jonno Rau | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
15 | ★ Al Fresco - with Jonno Rau | 20m, 5 | Average | |||
Warmups until we are warm.
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Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
18 | ★★ Ground Up Ethics - with Jonno Rau | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
17 ~16 | ★ Green Spot - with Jonno Rau | 16m, 5 | Don't Bother | |||
Sat 29th Jul 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
16 | ★★ White Christmas - with Gerald | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Both managed to skip final bolt. Lunch time. There is no spoon.
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18 | ★★★ Terror Incognito - with Gerald | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Been a while, retained some memory of it.
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16 ~16 Hard | ★ Bonne Anne - with Gerald | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Love it. Not sure Gerald did.
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Sat 29th Jul 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Bete Noire Wall | ||||||
17 Easy | ★ Morning Rain - with Gerald | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Brr. In.the sun at least.
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Sun 16th Jul 2023 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Bumbly's Buttress | ||||||
17 ~18 | The King And I - with Jonno Rau | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
I need never climb this again. At least hard 18.
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14 | ★★ Rok It To The Moon - with Jonno Rau | 23m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Finished at El Rayo X anchor
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
20 ~19 | ★ Sundowning Syndrome - with Gareth | 20m, 5 | Average | |||
A bit confusing at the crux where routes are just too close together.
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Fri 7th Apr 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
20 Hard | ★★ Great Scott - with Gareth | 27m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Perfect conditions for it.
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Sat 11th Mar 2023 - Waipari | ||||||
Bete Noire Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Sun Strike - with Gareth | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
About bloody time.
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Tue 3rd Jan 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
20 Hard | ★★ Great Scott - with Jonno Rau | 27m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
A good first go by Jonno. Crux flake is still attached.
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Sun 1st Jan 2023 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
20 Hard | ★★ Korimako - with Jonno Rau | 25m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
Re-sent. Great conditions, cool and dry sure makes a difference. Somebody left draws on, got a surprise when the one at the top of the slab was a triple-locker (hate 'em), and another when the final draw up the dihedral wasn't there.
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Sat 6th Aug 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
16 | ★★ White Christmas - with Jonno Rau, Max | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Warm down. Messy.
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19 | ★★ Safe Playing - with Jonno Rau, Max | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
No real crux just keep going.
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Sat 23rd Jul 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Bits and Opel | ||||||
18 | ★ Eyeline - with Jonno Rau | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Sat 23rd Jul 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Australia face) | ||||||
21 | ★★ Lunar Leopard - with Gareth, Jonno Rau, Max, Amy | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
First draw pre clipped but shouldn't have. Crux pretty static, no trouble.
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Sat 23rd Jul 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Bring Your Daughter Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Bring Your Daughter to the Slaughter - with Jonno Rau, Gareth | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warmed up. Back a bit tweaky.
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Sat 23rd Jul 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Bits and Opel | ||||||
18 | ★ Cowabunga - with Gareth, Jonno Rau | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
Wed 22nd Jun 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
19 Easy | ★★ Be Happy - with Claire, Josh | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Hardly any layback but plenty of stable positions on side pulls. Stay on the face at top.
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18 | ★★★ Terror Incognito - with Claire, Josh | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not much trouble, no complaints from ribs, seems I can still get up things.
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Sat 7th May 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
20 | ★★ Klingons - with Amy, Greg | 23m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Led for a change instead of TRS, feels good.
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18 | ★★ Ground Up Ethics - with Amy, Greg | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Straight up at start.
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18 | ★ Out With The Boys - with Amy, Greg | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Not quite as dull as I remember.
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Sat 16th Apr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
19 | ★★ Pinch and a Punch - with Greg, Gareth | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Shortly before dark, among the AURAC hordes. Sure keeps you honest, held a foot slip at the expense of some finger skin. Then time for Gareth's grindr assault on Respect My Authoritah.
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Sat 2nd Apr 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Bring Your Daughter Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Bring Your Daughter to the Slaughter - with Greg | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
On Greg's draws. No problems, a left heel hook at the top crux stabilises everything nicely.
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Sun 13th Mar 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Owairaka Buttress | ||||||
16 | ★ Zing Zang Zoo - with Gareth | 13m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Some hungover bogan on belay.
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Sun 6th Mar 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Owairaka Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★ Winterlude - with Gareth | 23m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice onsight G.
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17 | ★★ Fence Line - with Gareth | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Up again to clean the anchor, brought G up for his third(!) ascent, then rapped off. Must be good.
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Sat 5th Mar 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Owairaka Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★ Sarah, Love To - with Angela Hewlett, Colin | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
Not quite a star? Draws on to crux, which Angela had done but just needed to stand up.
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16 | ★ Tony’s Route - with Angela Hewlett, Colin | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
16 | ★ Zing Zang Zoo - with Colin, Angela Hewlett | 13m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Low crux then eases for a bit. Went left over the block at the top, the holds are there, do it!
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Sat 5th Feb 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Great Scott - with Gareth | 27m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thu 3rd Feb 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
18 | ★★ Bi-Curious George - with Gareth | 32m | ★ Good | |||
Gareth had a small touch-up scrub. The roof isn't the crux if you use a little brain.
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Wed 2nd Feb 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
16 | ★ Alice In Wonderland - with Gareth | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Did both crux variations. Right is harder than left.
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17 | ★★ Samurai Pizza Cats - with Gareth | 15m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
A bit tired, drizzly morning, then dodging the sun. Rather a large bush spider in one of the holds at the lip. Fortunately there are plenty of other holds.
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Mon 31st Jan 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
19 | ★★ Dirty Dancing - with Gareth | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Vague sense of slacking, walked up to do something before dark.
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Sun 16th Jan 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Bits and Opel | ||||||
18 | ★ Supertwitch - with Jonno, Greg | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Driest I've seen the bottom for a while.
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Sun 16th Jan 2022 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Australia face) | ||||||
21 | ★★ Lunar Leopard - with Jonno, Greg | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
First draw pre-clipped. Managed to not bugger it up somehow for a change.
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17 | ★★ Moon Base Alpha - with Jonno, Greg | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Follow the shade, starting here.
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Sat 15th Jan 2022 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
Chunderosa Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★ Hannah Louise - with Jonno | 30m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Shaded in the arvo but still fairly warm until the rock gives up stored heat.
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Sat 15th Jan 2022 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
16 | ★ Facetious - with Jonno | 14m, 4 | Average | |||
Flicked the wasp nest out of the low pocket. Otherwise forgettable.
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Tue 4th Jan 2022 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Great Scott - with Gareth | 27m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Off the "unsent" list, and easily, retrieving Alex's draws. Two fingers and a thumb on the crystal spike provides good attitude control and lets you look around the corner for the sidepull. Gareth found some sketchy tall bastard beta to avoid the whole drama. Time to pack up.
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Fri 31st Dec 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
19 | ★★ Pinch and a Punch - with Gareth | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Now with 20% less sharp and much better for it. Just stay on and keep going. One of the best in the vicinity.
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16 | ★ Jug Addiction - with Gareth | 20m, 8 | Average | |||
Some NYE shade. Gareth leading after 3 days of shoulder whinge.
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Thu 30th Dec 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Yacht Club | ||||||
19 | ★ Drink Like A Lady (LeD) - with Gareth, Jonno, Greg, Claire | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Off the dog list at least. Has you thinking at the start for sure. There's probably a fun grunty direct.
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18 | I’m A Motorboater - with Gareth, Jonno, Greg, Claire | 12m, 4 | Average | |||
Pretty damn balancy.
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Wed 29th Dec 2021 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Skink Prince (of Bel Air) - with Gareth, Jonno, Greg | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Not 2 stars, Great Scott is better. But still good. Did something different at crux, some kind of thumb-press out left.
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Sun 19th Dec 2021 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
16 ~16 Hard | ★ Bonne Anne - with Max, Greg | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warmup 2? Best 16 here. Straight up start is easier than it looks.
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16 | ★ Serife - with Max, Greg | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Warmup 1. Straight up start.
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Sun 5th Dec 2021 - Waipari | ||||||
Bete Noire Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Time Flies - with Gareth, Anja | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Another go to check it wasn't a fluke. Easier with the crux draw already on.
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Sat 4th Dec 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
16 | ★★ Strange New Worlds - with Gareth | 23m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Draws on. Raining but rock staying dry.
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Sat 20th Nov 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
17 | ★★ Girls, Girls, Girls - with Gareth | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Straight up start is good. Step right then left at crux bulge.
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Sat 2nd Oct 2021 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Australia face) | ||||||
17 | ★★ Moon Base Alpha | 20m, 6 | Average | |||
Straight up to start.
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Sat 18th Sep 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
18 | ★★ Ground Up Ethics | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Better
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Sun 1st Aug 2021 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Bits and Opel | ||||||
18 | ★ Eyeline - with Fletcher | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
16 | ★ New Bits - with Fletcher | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Sun 16th May 2021 - Pakeho | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
14 | ★ Tigger - with Grant Johnston | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
Almost certainly done this before. A little drier down low than yesterday, usable. Straight into Tiger.
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Sat 15th May 2021 - Pakeho | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
15 | ★ Hunny Face - with Grant Johnston | 19m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Very soggy and mossy down low after rain but dry above the bush.
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Sat 24th Apr 2021 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
16 | ★★ Fun Bags - with Grant Johnston | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Draws on to crux.
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13 | ★ Gary's Arete - with Grant Johnston | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Draws on.
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16 | ★★ Ride On Time - with Grant Johnston | 14m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
15 | ★ Oliver's Twist (New Climb) - with Grant Johnston | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 28th Dec 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Secret Garden | ||||||
20 | ★★ El Tigre Chino - with Gareth | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Gareth's onsight wingspan is annoying. Tricky moves on sidepulls but over all too quickly.
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Sat 19th Dec 2020 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
Chunderosa Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★ Aurum - with Jonno, Gareth | 25m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
Hot and humid, sunburned and running out of willpower. Still good.
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18 | ★★ Canard - with Jonno | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice - really needs the arete bolt past the anchor put back so it doesn't finish prematurely.
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Sat 12th Dec 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Yacht Club | ||||||
18 | ★★ The Reach Around - with Wade | 23m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another one off the dog list. Then Gareth got into self harming and ended the trip.
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18 | ★ Alcoholics Anonymous - with Gareth, Wade | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Start crux is much easier with beta.
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Sun 4th Oct 2020 - Frog Pond | ||||||
Tangarahu Rock | ||||||
15 | ★ Bite Me Gently - with Jonno, Greer | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Up to clean the anchor. There's a good mid size nut at left before the topout to reduce the runout if needed.
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Sun 6th Sep 2020 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Bumbly's Buttress | ||||||
14 | ★★ Rok It To The Moon - with Jonno | 23m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Warmup. Didnt get very warm. Sorry baby pigeons. Rap cleaned.
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Sun 30th Aug 2020 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
16 | ★★ Fun Bags - with Jonno | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Prior to extended shag round with TRS variants.
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Sat 30th May 2020 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Australia face) | ||||||
21 | ★★ Lunar Leopard - with Jonno | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
1st bolt pre-clipped. A bit surprised I could do it, but no way is this 21.
|
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Sat 4th Jan 2020 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ Great Scott - with Gareth Hall | 27m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
On Gareth's draws to his high point, then teetered through the thin high crux without sneaking out right, only to discover I didn't have any draws. Old-school on the last 2 bolts with the 2 single lockers I had on me.
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Sat 16th Nov 2019 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | ||||||
16 | ★ Baby Driver - with Gareth Hall | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Thu 3rd Oct 2019 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Metaphysical Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Lay Back and Enjoy It - with Travis | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Got the layback foot sequence wrong, made clipping very barn doory. Good fun. Current guide says 18 but I reckon not.
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Thu 9th May 2019 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
Chunderosa Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★ Carpe Diem - with Jack Robertshaw | 30m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Gear retrieval. Flows nicely after slightly awkward start.
|
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Sun 7th Apr 2019 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
17 | ★ Green Spot - with Tim Swain | 16m, 5 | Average | |||
Better than Facetious ... just.
|
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16 | ★ Facetious - with Tim Swain | 14m, 4 | Average | |||
Sat 3rd Nov 2018 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Rohans Little Sister - with Angela Hewlett | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
One ok smear sequence. Retrieving Angela's draws of shame ;-)
|
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Wed 31st Oct 2018 - Pakeho | ||||||
Main Crag | ||||||
16 | ★ Piglet | 21m, 10 | Average | |||
We both got confused by the many lines of bolts and didn't realize this was Piglet and actually finishes above the roof. Wound up at the Tigger anchor, will revisit.
|
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Wed 31st Oct 2018 - Pakeho | ||||||
The Stone Steps | ||||||
16 | ★★ Tree Time | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Phil's warmup.
|
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Sat 27th Oct 2018 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley Bring Your Daughter Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Bring Your Daughter to the Slaughter | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
After Gareth got it clean. All good.
|
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Sun 23rd Sep 2018 - Waipari | ||||||
Main Cliff | ||||||
17 | ★ Blazing Away | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Like. Stick close to the arete and heel hook. 1st 3 draws already on after a valiant fight by Gareth.
|
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Mon 27th Aug 2018 - Waipari | ||||||
Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Australia face) | ||||||
21 | ★★ Lunar Leopard | 20m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Clean but with preclipped first draw. Must revisit for a redpoint.
|
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Sat 17th Feb 2018 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
Chunderosa Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★ Hannah Louise | 30m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Retrieving anchor gear.
|
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Sun 3rd Dec 2017 - Sheridan Hills | ||||||
Chunderosa Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★ Aurum | 25m, 13 | ★ Good | |||
Hot. Hothothot.
|