729 Ascents by David Gibbs

 

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Grade Route Quality Style Crag Climber Date
5.10a Coda Very Good Sport 13m, 3 Gatineau Hills
Sun 13th Jul '14

A few rivulets running down it, and wet at the top. Got all but the crux slab bit, which took a couple tries.

V0 High Rising Traverse Average DWS Lac Sam
Sat 28th Jun '14
V7 Left side of Big Rock DWS 7m Lac Sam
Tue 1st Jul '14

Broke a hold, and ripped my finger open. Stopped trying at that point.

V6 Main Crack Very Good DWS 7m Lac Sam
Sat 28th Jun '14

Another try, another splash.

5.8 * Gneiss and Grandy Very Good Sport 15m, 7 Lac Sam
Sat 28th Jun '14

Yeah, on re-climbing, this is probably more like 5.8 than 5.7.

5.6 Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle Good Trad 25m Lac Sam
Sun 29th Jun '14

Lead it again -- found another couple gear placements in the (previously thought to be) run-out section. Both small (including a white tri-cam) but ok.

5.3 Bill le Crapaud Good Trad 12m Montagne d'Argent
Sun 22nd Jun '14

First placement is quite high, almost 1/2 way up the climb -- but placements are decent. (Guide lists as TR.)

5.4 Kenneth le Grand Inquisiteur Average Mixed 12m, 1 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 22nd Jun '14

A bit dirty -- doesn't seem to be climbed a lot.

The gear is not... great. Then again, the guide does list it as a top-rope.

5.8 Le Retour des Loups-Garous Good Sport 20m, 6 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 22nd Jun '14

Enjoyable climbing, with two sections of thin moves -- to the first anchor, and from the first to 2nd anchor.

5.4 La Motte Average Trad 15m Montagne d'Argent
Sun 22nd Jun '14

Was a bit dirty.

5.7 Triplets Good Trad 22m Montagne d'Argent
Sun 22nd Jun '14

Nice climbing. Doesn't have the 2 bolts listed in the guidebook -- you just have to run it out at the top.

5.10b Lucky Luke Average Sport 24m, 10 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 22nd Jun '14

Tried pulling the lower crux -- not successful. Might go with work? Dodged it after a couple tries. Fell on upper crux, too.

5.8 (unkown) Average Sport 14m, 3 Gatineau Hills
Sat 21st Jun '14

Got it clean on top-rope. Of the lines I've climbed here, probably the least interesting.

5.8 * Ethics Police Very Good Mixed 16m, 4 Gatineau Hills
Sat 21st Jun '14

I remembered how to do the crux from previous try, so it went pretty well. A good climb.

5.9 (unknown 2) Good Sport 16m, 5 Gatineau Hills
Sat 21st Jun '14

A bit of a squeeze-job, but climbs well if you can find the moves -- isn't an obvious walk-up.

5.8 * Mr Clean Classic Sport 16m, 5 Gatineau Hills
Sat 21st Jun '14

Definitely a great climb. Love the no-hands-rest mid-way.

5.6 Stage Left Average Mixed 3 Calabogie
Thu 19th Jun '14

High first bolt -- a bit annoying when wet. Easy-going until the last few moves.

5.6 Stage Right Good Sport 4 Calabogie
Thu 19th Jun '14

Definitely the better of the pair -- far more consistent climbing at grade.

5.9 ** Hakuna-Matata Good Sport 15m Calabogie
Thu 19th Jun '14

Took a few tries to re-work out the opening sequence on TR (didn't have a stick clip), then rest went fine.

5.5 Calabogie Sunset Good Mixed 15m, 3 Calabogie
Thu 19th Jun '14

Crux is getting to first bolt -- thin, not very re-assuring, but ok.

5.10d ** Security Very Good Mixed 2 Gatineau Hills
Sun 15th Jun '14

Got the lower sequence pretty smooth and easy, but took about 4 tries at the crux. I think I may have a slightly better sequence now, but will need to try again soonish.

5.6 ** Neruda Classic Trad Gatineau Hills
Sun 15th Jun '14

Lead it again. Goes pretty comfortably, now.

5.3 Falling Frog Average Trad 30m Lac Sam
Sat 14th Jun '14

Wet, with a pack full of gear makes it a bit more work.

5.6 (unknown 3) Average Sport 12m, 3 Gatineau Hills
Sun 8th Jun '14

A nice warmup, and handy for putting a TR on Coda.

5.10a Coda Very Good Sport 13m, 3 Gatineau Hills
Sun 8th Jun '14

Lovely thin slab moves with minimal hands. I took a couple falls on TR, but want to come back and lead it.

5.8 * Mr Clean Sport 16m, 5 Gatineau Hills
Sun 8th Jun '14

Took a fall at the start, and a rest near the end. I think I can put it together, though. A very good route, but quite stiff for a 5.8.

5.8 (unkown) Don't Bother Sport 14m, 3 Gatineau Hills
Sun 8th Jun '14

Did it on TR, set by traversing at top from anchors of Ethics Police (easy to do).

Inconsistent climbing. High first bolt, and bad fall potential later in the route. Probably shouldn't be lead unless solid in the grade.

5.7 * Know When to Hold'em Good Trad 31m Lac Sam
Sat 7th Jun '14

Lead it again. Gear is finicky at the start, I used a (little) white tri-cam, and not sure the rock is strong either.

Still contemplating a bolt to protect the opening.

5.7 Giggles Average Sport 25m, 8 Lac Sam
Sat 7th Jun '14

Bolted it, let Phil get the FA, then lead it. Goes nicely. Also, chopped the tree branch off the climb on the way down, making it nicer. Climb still needs another top-to-bottom brushing, though.

5.7 * Gneiss and Grandy Very Good Sport 15m, 7 Lac Sam
Wed 4th Jun '14

Yup, still happy with this route, and with the grade. 5.7, but sometimes takes a bit of work to find the 5.7 move each place. I should re-clean the top (ledge) as its picked up a bit of moss.

5.8 Little Deuce Coupe Very Good Sport 12m, 6 Lac Sam
Wed 4th Jun '14

Lead it again, after a while away from it, to see how the grade felt. The last clip after the crux feels tenuous -- but the feet are solid while you search for a hand-hold to clip from.

36-24-36 Top rope 13m Lac Sam
Wed 4th Jun '14

Bottom was easy -- 5.7ish. Couldn't pull the roof. Maybe once hand holds are clean and solid, I'll get it... we'll see. I'm guessing about 5.10ish (maybe 5.10- but the type of move that I'm not good at).

5.10b The Wide Crack Good Sport 8m Mont Rigaud
Sun 1st Jun '14

Climbs more like a crack then the climb to the left, actually got some good jams in on this, only lay-backing a bit going over the bulge at the top.

5.10b The Crack Average Trad Mont Rigaud
Sun 1st Jun '14

Short, hard. Climbs more like hard face than crack.

5.8 Stigmata Good Sport 15m, 5 Mont Rigaud
Sun 1st Jun '14

Warm-up climb for the day. Nice enough, and better bolting than some of the stuff at Mont Rigaud.

5.6 (Slab right of Flaky Flake) Average Trad 17m Calabogie
Sat 31st May '14

Another climb with adequate, rather than good, gear. Also probably PG. Crux section is protected by a smallish nut that isn't particularly deeply set.

5.6 (unknown 1) Average Trad 15m Calabogie
Sat 31st May '14

Lead it again. Yup, gear is adequate. I think difficulty may be height dependent, as the crux move is a bit reach dependent. There are intermediate holds to use -- but they're a bit small.

5.8 (unknown 3) Very Good Mixed 15m, 3 Calabogie
Sun 25th May '14

Just ticking something for a mellow day out.

5.3 * Bolt Line 3 Very Good Sport 25m, 9 Gatineau Hills
Sat 24th May '14

Really, I climbed Rocketman... but for tracking "days climbed" I'm ticking this here. Cause don't want to make access committee people mad at me for ticking a closed climb.

5.7 Club Sandwich Don't Bother Trad Weir
Sun 18th May '14

"Easy" start was soaking wet, so started up through cave. Very hard climbing. Gear placements were mostly wet, so didn't inspire confidence either. On pitch 2, I didn't have anything bigger than a C4 #4, so ended up run-out some 8m or more, grubbing up the off-width crack. May climb better on the very exposed ramp/arete, but not protectable. Pitch 3 traverse was easy. But, the last bit of the ledge at the start of P4 was soaking wet, and that pitch was wet too, so I decided to not lead it.

5.9 Short Offwidth Very Good Trad 6m Weir
Sun 18th May '14

A short, but fun (if you like that kind of thing) off-width. I took a short rest about 1/2 way up, partially weighting the rope, before finishing the climb.

5.5 Corner Route Trad 11m Mont Rigaud
Sun 11th May '14

I don't have a previous ascent of this recorded, so guess this was my first time up it.

Single bolt near top, so used that plus some gear for the anchor.

5.11a Premier Pas Sport 11m Mont Rigaud
Sun 11th May '14

Playing on the slab on top-rope. Didn't get far.

5.6 Bunny Arete Average Top rope 11m Mont Rigaud
Sun 11th May '14

Had a rope up on Bunny Hop, swung it around the corner, and played with stuff on this side. I found myself a 5.6ish sequence, but there's easier and harder choices available.

5.5 * Route A Very Good Trad Gatineau Hills
Sat 10th May '14

Easiest lead up it yet -- found that I could almost chimney the initial (tough) section, making that part go far more easily than it has in the past, and the rest of the climb is easier than the start.

5.6 Pull Up Very Good Sport 18m, 5 Calabogie
Wed 7th May '14

Didn't plan to lead it, since foot is hurt, but partner accidentally pulled the rope.

5.7 Old School Chocolate Average Trad Red River Gorge
Sat 19th Apr '14

Good gear low down, but not higher.

Climb seemed far more difficult than the 5.9 sport I climbed first.

I took a fall, banged up my right heel, and was done for the trip. X-Rays show no break, though.

5.9 * Grandpa Joe Very Good Sport 15m, 7 Red River Gorge
Sat 19th Apr '14

First climb at RRG, felt soft for a 5.9. All the moves were there, a bit steep, and would be pumpy (maybe warranting 5.9) except there were a few decent rests.

5.9 *** Lavender Mega Classic Mixed 5 Gatineau Hills
Sat 12th Apr '14

Spring, first day out, and I'm not back in lead shape -- got it clean right up until the last few moves, then couldn't quite pull that crimpy final crux, even with a few tries. I took a couple good falls trying, though. Then, I had to climb it all again to clean it -- less scary on top rope, of course.

5.5 Idiot Proof Average Trad 7m Gatineau Hills
Sat 16th Nov '13

Apparently it is far easier to pull the move past the roof when one's hands are not really cold. It went pretty smoothly today, but it was far warmer than last time I was trying to climb it. It might actually be hard 5.5 (5.6+) rather than worse than that.

5.9 A0 ** Corruption Mixed 1 Gatineau Hills
Sat 16th Nov '13

Fun easy climbing up the initial curving crack to the ledge. Nearly impossible move at the first bolt, then tricky climbing (5.9) up the dihedral to the finish.

Everyone who climbed this (4 of us) pulled on the draw at the bolt, including Flo (climbs 5.11s, projects 5.12s).

5.9 ** Enron Classic Sport 4 Gatineau Hills
Sat 16th Nov '13

Got a clean run up it this time. An excellent climb, with many interesting moves, requiring thought in places. I should think about leading this -- though I'd probably want to stick-clip the first bolt.

5.6 * Morning Crack Good Trad Gatineau Hills
Sat 16th Nov '13

Good climbing with good gear. I decided to finish up then right to the anchors used by "Enron" (which seemed natural) rather than directly right to the obvious anchors on the face. They may be intended for "Minor Threat". The ledge for the last few moves was soaking wet and slimy, making them a bit more exciting than they might be dry.

5.8 *** Colonel Buckets Classic Trad Gatineau Hills
Sat 16th Nov '13

A good climb with some very interesting moves. Both near the start, and along the upper finger crack. Gear looked good, and I think I should be able to lead this one.

5.5 Idiot Proof Average Trad 7m Gatineau Hills
Sun 27th Oct '13

Might be idiot-proof, but not David proof. I fell a few times at the crux, pulling over the roof onto the slab. Might have been better if my hands weren't so cold.

This climb is, essentially, a one-move wonder, a bit of easy work up a slab, a bit awkward to setup for the roof, then a hard pull over the overhang, then a couple easy moves and done. Protects ok, though.

5.8 Martha Stewart Average Sport 7m, 2 Gatineau Hills
Sun 27th Oct '13

Also short. Some tricky slab moves, finding the right little hands and feet.

5.5 XY Average Sport 7m, 1 Gatineau Hills
Sun 27th Oct '13

Short, with high first bolt. Easy going to bolt, crux after clip, then fine to anchors.

5.10d ** Security Very Good Mixed 2 Gatineau Hills
Sun 20th Oct '13

Again at the crux. I need to figure out the sequence without falling several times. sigh

5.4 * Cinch Crack Very Good Trad 15m Gatineau Hills
Sun 20th Oct '13

Lead it at the end of the day. The over-hanging lay-back crack section is really intimidating on a 5.4. It does protect well.

At end of crack, step right to small triangular ledge -- there are two pitons at the back, to rappel off.

5.7 *** Get Lost Very Good Trad 33m High Sierra
Sat 12th Oct '13

Mike lead this, I followed. I'd already lead a 5.8, and the gear needed to be cleaned, so felt no need to lead.

A good climb, generally good gear with one bit that was a bit run-out (for the grade).

5.8 ** No Trespassing Very Good Trad 35m High Sierra
Sat 12th Oct '13

Opening climb on this rock. Good climbing, good moves, and good gear.

5.9 *** Surfin' Safari Classic Trad 35m High Sierra
Sat 12th Oct '13

It was the last day of the ICM, so I decided to push my lead grade a bit by going for a 5.9 trad climb. It was long, so I borrowed a few extra trad draws and since there were "seams" some small offset cams from Mike. I ended up using all the draws -- but none of the offset. It protected surprisingly well, though not without a few places where I might have wanted more gear.

Definitely a fun climb and well worth doing. I spent a bit of time looking for the (non-existent) bolted anchors.

5.9 *** Beckey Route Classic Trad High Sierra
Fri 11th Oct '13

We were trying as a team of 3, and following another team up so slow. Then one of our 3 got hurt on the first pitch and had to lower-off, more delays. So, I made the call to back off at the 3rd belay, rather than continue. Spang wanted to continue... but acquiesced.

I lead pitch 1, Spang lead 2 and 3.

5.8 ** Bananarama Classic Sport 30m, 9 Alabama Hills
Thu 10th Oct '13

First climb (and first lead) at Alabama Hills. Bouldery start onto the platform, then easy but fun climbing above. A real rope-stretcher for a 60m rope.

5.8 ** Ankles Away Classic Sport 25m, 9 Alabama Hills
Thu 10th Oct '13

2nd lead. Stepping up from 5.7 to 5.8. A bit tricky, but went well.

5.9 ** Mon Cherie Very Good Sport 25m, 9 Alabama Hills
Thu 10th Oct '13

Fun.

5.10a *** Alabama Hills Gang Mega Classic Sport 45m, 17 Alabama Hills
Thu 10th Oct '13

Last climb of the day, and I expected it to go easier than Pangborm since the guide gives this as 5.9, but it is clearly harder. I did both on lead, but another climber who lead Pangborn but followed this felt that this was, also, clearly harder.

Sustained thin 5.9 at the start, hard move after the ramp, then a sustained mix of 5.8, 5.9, and 5.10a moves up the upper section. And it just keeps going and going.

5.8 ** Ranger Ron Classic Sport 45m, 15 Alabama Hills
Thu 10th Oct '13

Wasn't planning on this one -- but it was open when we got to the cliff, so I lead it. Glad I did. Lovely sustained 5.8 climbing that just goes on and on.

5.10a ** Pangborn Classic Sport 45m, 11 Alabama Hills
Thu 10th Oct '13

Long, long, long -- but mostly 5.8 climbing. A few 5.9 sequences, and just one 5.10a move. A very soft-feeling 5.10a climb.

5.7 ** North Face Very Good Trad 120m High Sierra
Tue 8th Oct '13

8 of us headed up to Crystal peak with the ICM group -- the initial thought was that a few would be doing some cragging near the base, and only a couple teams go up the peak. As it turns out, we ran 4 teams of 2 up to the top, and I was leading for the 4th pair.

The climbing was generally easy, the gear generally good, and the rock alpine... meaning some loose, and be careful what you're doing.

The descent was very... alpine. :( The approach was long for the altitude, but on good trails.

5.8 *** Babushka Very Good Sport 24m, 8 Owens River Gorge
Mon 7th Oct '13

Last climb of the day as people were packing up and leaving. A fun finish to a day in the gorge.

5.8 China Doll Very Good Sport 20m Owens River Gorge
Mon 7th Oct '13

Nice, long, solid, sustained 5.8.

5.8 * Enter The Dragon Good Sport 14m, 4 Owens River Gorge
Mon 7th Oct '13

Felt a bit better on the rock with this one. Generally pretty easy-going, and short.

5.9 Fortune Cookie Average Sport 14m, 4 Owens River Gorge
Mon 7th Oct '13

Tried leading it, first day at the ICM, first ever climb on the rock in Owens River Gorge -- found the rock very slippery, couldn't commit to crux move after first bolt. When back and top-roped it without a problem.

5.9 ** Heart of the Sun Very Good Sport 25m Owens River Gorge
Mon 7th Oct '13

I found it long & pumpy, with the crux being right near the end.

5.8 * Sabado Gigante Good Sport 30m, 12 Owens River Gorge
Mon 7th Oct '13

Lots of fun climbing, but lots of loose gravel and bits of loose rock. I touched, but didn't use a loose hold on the lead -- then pulled off a dinner-plate sized piece while lowering-off (so somebody wouldn't reef on it, and send it at their belayer).

5.8 ** Stradivarius Very Good Mixed 3 Owens River Gorge
Mon 7th Oct '13

At ICM, lead on Curtis' rack, since I didn't bring mine into the gorge, expecting only sport climbs.

Excellent hand crack with good gear into average face above.

5.7 * Over Easy Classic Mixed 21m, 1 Lake Tahoe, California Side
Sat 5th Oct '13

Mike lead this, and had a bit of trouble with the thin slab section by the bolt. Possibly because I was seconding, but I had no problem at all -- looked at it, thought, then just climbed it with no difficulty.

The pull up over the roof is just awesome -- jugs, but big moves. Then more jugs up the face above, fun and easy.

5.8 Cockabooty Very Good Trad 21m Lake Tahoe, California Side
Sat 5th Oct '13

Cockabooty has a few variations, we top-roped a variations with a 5.8 finish -- staying left to pull a few harder moves over the bulge at the end of the lay-back section.

5.7 ** Ginger Bread Classic Trad 58m Lake Tahoe, California Side
Sat 5th Oct '13

If the flakes weren't so intimidatingly hollow for so long, I'd rate it a mega-classic.

I lead the first (harder) pitch, Mike got the easy, with everything solid, second pitch.

5.10a * (unknown name) Classic Mixed 12m, 2 Lake Tahoe, California Side
Sat 5th Oct '13

Some very interesting moves up the initial crack with bad feet below, including at time a very high right foot. Definitely a cruxy sequence. Then a 2nd thin-holds crux around the first bolt. Very happy to get this clean first try.

5.8 * Unnamed 5.8 Very Good Sport 11m, 4 Lake Tahoe, California Side
Sat 5th Oct '13

This went clean, too. Some thin moves, here and there. Glad my slab technique is decent.

5.8 * Unnamed 5.8 TR Very Good Top rope 11m Lake Tahoe, California Side
Sat 5th Oct '13

After a couple false-starts on the opening thin moves, I managed to get them. Then the rest went clean first try.

5.8 * East Crack Classic Trad 120m Lake Tahoe, California Side
Fri 4th Oct '13

Lead pitches 1 and 3. 1 is sustained at 5.7. Pitch 3 is the least interesting of the three, though the 5.7 crux is fun. Pitch 3 is getting quite polished -- it is shared by several climbs, including the ultra-popular Bear's Reach.

5.7 *** Corrugation Corner Mega Classic Trad 150m Lake Tahoe, California Side
Thu 3rd Oct '13

Lead pitch 2, probably the hardest of the 3 pitches. Mega-exposed up the arete, run-out with some 5.7 moves on long run-out. Awesome climbing on every pitch.

5.7 ** Surrealistic Pillar Classic Trad 120m Lake Tahoe, California Side
Thu 3rd Oct '13

Lead pitches 1 and 3. Gorgeous climbing, not overly sustained at 5.7, but some long runouts at 5.5 range.

5.4 Knapsack Crack Good Trad 91m Lake Tahoe, California Side
Wed 2nd Oct '13

We did this in two long pitches, I took the second one and ran out of rope almost at the top... so had to belay just short, though really close enough that I just walked the finish.

Supertopo guide has this as 5.5, but I think the 5.4 rating on here is pretty reasonable.

5.6 * Deception Very Good Trad 91m Lake Tahoe, California Side
Wed 2nd Oct '13

Lead pitches 1 and 3.

Was very cold -- hadn't properly realized that it would be a lot colder at 6000' than in Sacramento, and the wind was whipping past.

5.6 *** Pete's Farwell Classic Trad 46m Adirondacks
Sun 29th Sep '13

Flo lead pitches 1 and 3, while I lead pitch 2 -- the longest of the three -- at 5.6.

5.6 ** Hesitation Very Good Trad 110m Adirondacks
Sun 29th Sep '13

Followed Flo for the first two pitches, and lead the 2nd two pitches.

Pitch 1 and 4 are excellent climbing. Pitch 2 is a nasty lead due to the exposed run-out. Pitch 3 climbs ok, but is a bit dirty and vegetated, with a bit of loose rock.

Generally, though, a climb well worth doing.

5.9 *** Lavender Mega Classic Mixed 5 Gatineau Hills
Sat 28th Sep '13

Finally got the lead clean. An awesome route, with 3 different crux points of different types and a lot of good climbing in between.

Pulled more directly over the initial overhang to the jugs, rather than traversing a long way right.

5.10c * The Original Route Trad Gatineau Hills
Sat 28th Sep '13

Tried a variety of ways to pull the moves out of the cave and over, but couldn't pull any of them.

5.9 ** Rupert Bear Goes Hiking Classic Mixed 25m, 4 Gatineau Hills
Sat 28th Sep '13

Got it clean on TR this time. A very good route, have to think about leading it next.

5.7 Piton Byway Mixed 1 Gatineau Hills
Sat 28th Sep '13

Climbed the long variant, different right from the start. Finished right of the final bolt, to make the finish a bit harder, too.

5.9 No More Mr Nice Guy [another varation] Good Top rope Mont Rigaud
Sun 22nd Sep '13
5.9 Former Rock Star Good Sport 17m, 5 Mont Rigaud
Sun 22nd Sep '13

Top-roped it again today, then decided I'd go for leading it, since the TR went well. It is far steeper, and more sustained, than it looks from the bottom.

5.5 Bunny Corner Trad 11m Mont Rigaud
Sun 22nd Sep '13

Amazed I have not lead, or climbed, this before. Climbed it to set a TR anchor on Dolny Zeb to its left.

5.2 Birch Tree Gully Trad 12m Mont Rigaud
Sun 22nd Sep '13

Fun little climb, but could use some sort of anchor solution. I used a tree up the gully, but it isn't a good end for the climb, which would be better straight up and over. Maybe add bolts? (And clean a bit of the loose stuff out.)

5.6 Bolt Line 1 Very Good Sport 25m, 8 Gatineau Hills
Fri 20th Sep '13

Lead it again, with a bit of excitement in the crux section -- was surprised by reaching for a hold, and finding a toad. Not surprised enough to fall, luckily.

5.9 (unnamed 3) ((unname 3)) Very Good Mixed 4 Gatineau Hills
Sat 14th Sep '13

I have climbed a couple bits of this before -- mostly at the bottom -- but the rest was stuff I hadn't climbed.

I went into it thinking I was going up a sport route, with just 6 tri-cams (pink, two red, brown, blue, purple) in case it got a bit run-out, but was glad I had them when I found as I climbed it that it wasn't a sport climb. (Placed 3 of them.) Definitely a good climb. I thought Lavender harder, but Glauco thought this harder (he followed both) so calling it 5.9, too.

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