828 Ascents by David Gibbs

 

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Grade Route Quality Style Crag Climber Date
5.4 * Rocketman

With Chantalle this time... another first multi-pitch for a friend. Always a fun climb.

Very Good Trad 96m Gatineau Hills
Fri 24th Oct '14
5.8 * Ron's Climb

Went clean unexpectedly easily on TR, despite the initial layback section being a bit wet. I keep thinking about leading it, then thinking again.

Very Good Trad 27m Gatineau Hills
Fri 24th Oct '14
5.8 Chute Libre

Fell at the crux, but hadn't been planning to lead it -- rescuing someone else's lead.

Mixed 20m, 1 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 19th Oct '14
5.8 Beaujolais Nouveau Classic Mixed 20m, 1 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 19th Oct '14
5.9 * Piglet

First three bolts are steep & hard. Once the ledge is achieved, rest is easy slab.

Very Good Sport 25m, 7 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 19th Oct '14
5.8 Titanicomanie

Lead, but just to the short anchors on Le Bogue.

Good Mixed 38m, 3 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 19th Oct '14
5.9 ** Le Bogue de l'An 2000

The main part of the face (below the wedge section) was soaking wet, so climbed it on the steeper section to the right... was about a grade harder. Sadly took a fall.

Very Good Trad 28m Montagne d'Argent
Sun 19th Oct '14
5.7 La Belle de Cadix Average Sport 14m, 4 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 19th Oct '14
5.10b * Invitation Mixte

Need to learn the sequence, then try leading it. Will be harder on gear... important holds will be lost.

Very Good Mixed 22m, 4 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 19th Oct '14
5.8 *** Nutcracker

Partner found a variant of the 5.9 variant start -- going up a thin crack/seam about 2m right of it for about 2/3 of the first pitch. I lead pitch 2 (5.6) and half of pitch 3 (5.7).

Classic Trad 180m Yosemite National Park
Fri 10th Oct '14
5.7 * After Six (After Six P1)

Surprisingly hard for a 5.7 because of all the polish. Was going to continue, but partner was too tired.

Trad 180m Yosemite National Park
Sat 11th Oct '14
5.9 ** Super Slab

Great climbing, mostly at the 5.7 or below grade, with a couple 5.8 moves on pitch 4, and a short (maybe 15 ft) 5.9 section at the end of the final pitch.

Classic Trad 150m Yosemite National Park
Wed 8th Oct '14
5.9 *** Commitment

Hard 5.8 crack at the start, but otherwise not too bad. One noticeable, committing 5.9 move on pitch 3 passing the roof to the right just above the belay.

Top is extremely loose.

Classic Trad 100m Yosemite National Park
Tue 7th Oct '14
5.8 * Point Beyond, Direct (Point Beyond, Direct P1)

Tricky slab to the flake, then burly lay-back climbing from there.

Good Mixed 88m, 1 Yosemite National Park
Mon 6th Oct '14
5.8 Monday Morning Slab (TR)

Granite slab.

Average Top rope 58m Yosemite National Park
Mon 6th Oct '14
5.2 * Monday Morning Slab, Right (Monday Morning Slab, Right P1)

First climb in Yosemite.

Trad 120m Yosemite National Park
Mon 6th Oct '14
5.8 *** Goodrich Pinnacle, Right

Climbed the first 4 pitches, leading 1 and 2, following 3 and 4.

Very Good Trad 230m Yosemite National Park
Tue 7th Oct '14
5.4 ** Route B Classic Trad Gatineau Hills
Sun 28th Sep '14
5.3 * Bolt Line 3 Very Good Sport 25m, 9 Gatineau Hills
Sun 28th Sep '14
5.3 * Ground Zero Very Good Sport 25m, 10 Gatineau Hills
Sun 28th Sep '14
5.6 ** Neruda

And, fine on lead again.

Very Good Trad Gatineau Hills
Sun 28th Sep '14
5.3 ** Arachnophobia

This goes surprisingly well on gear, though it may not look it. Placements are not always obvious, but can be found, and there are lots.

Only problem is actually finding it dry enough to lead.

Very Good Trad 25m Gatineau Hills
Sun 28th Sep '14
5.7 * Scylla and Charybdis

Good climbing, though I broke a hold (hand) and fell at the start, and broke another one (foot) later, but stuck it.

Very Good Trad 35m Lac Sam
Sun 28th Sep '14
5.8 * Tits 'n' Ass (Tits 'n' Ass Direct)

A bit sparsely bolted, maybe needs one more bolt between the 3rd and 4th bolt. Also a bit run-out after 2nd crux -- but easy going there. (Though I supplemented with a black tri-cam.)

Very Good Sport 28m, 9 Lac Sam
Sun 28th Sep '14
5.9 Welcome to the Machine

Went smoothly.

Good Sport 17m, 7 Lac Sam
Sun 28th Sep '14
5.6 Shine on You Crazy Diamond

Figuring where bolts needed, and where gear works.

Good Top rope 17m Lac Sam
Sun 28th Sep '14
5.5 (dihedral and arete)

Dropped a rope cause there looked like there might be something interesting. Needs cleaning, but seems fun.

Top rope 20m Lac Sam
Sun 28th Sep '14
5.6 ** Neruda

Then, walked up it smoothly and easily on TR.

Very Good Trad Gatineau Hills
Sat 20th Sep '14
5.6 ** Neruda

Got my sequence wrong at the crux and fell. Yay gear.

Very Good Trad Gatineau Hills
Sat 20th Sep '14
5.3 * Bolt Line 3

A bit wet, but I've climbed it wetter.

Very Good Sport 25m, 9 Gatineau Hills
Sat 20th Sep '14
5.3 * Ground Zero

Wet, especially at the bottom, but still easy climbing.

Very Good Sport 25m, 10 Gatineau Hills
Sat 20th Sep '14
5.4 ** Route B

In the pouring rain. And still solid climbing.

Classic Trad Gatineau Hills
Sat 20th Sep '14
5.9 ** The Reaper

Ok on the technical bits, but didn't find the right foot at the physical crux, so that took a couple tries.

Sport 2 Gatineau Hills
Sat 20th Sep '14
5.8 Mr Toady's Dihedral

Pulled the crux fine, then failed to find the good hold after that and pealed off. Sigh.

Good Mixed 1 Gatineau Hills
Sat 20th Sep '14
5.5 The other dihedral

I've bailed to this line when trying to lead Mr Toady's a couple times -- but this time I went after it from the bottom. The start is trickier than I expected.

Trad 8m Gatineau Hills
Sat 20th Sep '14
5.8 Le Retour des Loups-Garous

Picked the wrong bad foot hold, instead of the right bad foot hold in the crux section and slipped for a whole 1/2 m lead fall. Oh well. Did the extension, cause the no-hands slab is fun.

Good Sport 20m, 6 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 14th Sep '14
5.9 Illusion

Warm up.

Good Sport 25m, 8 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 14th Sep '14
5.9 La Cha-cha des Félins

Hadn't climbed it in a few years... a fun lead.

Good Sport 28m, 7 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 14th Sep '14
5.7 Les Acrobates de l'Espace

Muddy up to the start, and a bit damp, but a fun lead.

Good Trad 25m Montagne d'Argent
Sun 14th Sep '14
5.7 La Belle de Cadix

Was a bit damp, so felt a bit harder than its grade -- had a foot slip on the first move or two.

Average Sport 14m, 4 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 14th Sep '14
5.6 (unknown 3) Average Sport 12m, 3 Gatineau Hills
Sat 6th Sep '14
5.9 (unknown 2) Good Sport 16m, 5 Gatineau Hills
Sat 6th Sep '14
5.8 * Mr Clean

At least this one went smoothly. After my lead of Ethics Police, I wasn't sure.

Classic Sport 16m, 5 Gatineau Hills
Sat 6th Sep '14
5.8 * Ethics Police

Horribly, butchered, lead. Well, just the crux section. But still awful.

Very Good Mixed 16m, 4 Gatineau Hills
Sat 6th Sep '14
5.6 (unkown 11)

Not sure if it is leadable... not a lot of gear lower down. Will have to look again higher up... but might be slinging trees for a couple of the protection points.

Average Top rope 17m Calabogie
Mon 1st Sep '14
6 Heidetritt

Guide & rock wall says 6+ for this one, but on here it is listed as 6. Felt definitely softer than Viel Gluuck (which was 6+, too), so probably only a 6.

A good climb, too.

Good Sport 25m, 7 Albtal
Sat 30th Aug '14
6+ Viel Glück

Missed figuring out one sequence, and lost the on-sight. Oh well.

A good climb with some interesting problems.

Very Good Sport 28m, 8 Albtal
Sat 30th Aug '14
6 Luftikus Good Sport 30m, 9 Albtal
Sat 30th Aug '14
7 *** Schwieriger Riss

So close to climbing it clean... just didn't figure out one short sequence. Might have done better with my crack gloves, too.

An incredible, varied climb. Laybacks, chimneys, ramps, jams, face -- everything, and always feeling steeper than it looks from the ground.

Classic Sport 30m, 11 Albtal
Sat 30th Aug '14
6+ Muskelriss Good Sport 33m, 14 Albtal
Sat 30th Aug '14
7- Magic Mushrooms

Got a good way up before taking a couple good lead falls, nope. Backed off to Herzklolpfen (6-) to finish off.

Good Sport 30m, 9 Albtal
Sat 30th Aug '14
6- Biberrampe

Was damp, which made the climb a bit more exciting to lead. Turned out to be a pretty good warm-up, though.

Good Sport 33m, 11 Albtal
Sat 30th Aug '14
6a *** Quarzo

Lovely slab climbing with an enjoyable steeper finish. Descent is not so pleasant.

Classic Sport 420m Speroni di Ponte Brolla
Wed 27th Aug '14
6a Tintangel

Climbed both 6a pitches clean, had to rest on the 6b+ (2nd pitch) but made all the moves without aid, also one rest on the 5c+ pitch. Should have got it clean -- but just too tired. Got the two 6a pitches clean, though, so listing as 2nd clean at 6a.

Classic Sport 120m Hintisberg
Thu 28th Aug '14
6a+ *** Metorit-Komination

A beautiful climb on mostly good rock (though with a couple bands of choss to get through). Wouldn't want to follow another team up, though. I got it clean except for the final crux section at the end of the last pitch. Should have lead pitch 4, too -- but was scared of unprotected chossy start.

- with Flo
Classic Sport 200m Cheselenflue
Mon 25th Aug '14
5c Primavera

After waiting for a while, we decided to try something... I had to aid through the 6c pitch (of course) but got the 2nd pitch clean, despite cold hands.

Good Sport 180m Hintisberg
Sun 24th Aug '14
6a+ ** Direkter Pfeiler

A great climb.

Classic Sport 150m Klus
Sat 23rd Aug '14
5.5 Seconds Out

Soaking wet, it is a bit trickier to climb this.

Average Trad 20m Calabogie
Wed 20th Aug '14
5.10b Escouade tactile

Upper face is fun face climbing, but the crux is the slab/friction work lower down.

Sport 25m, 6 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 17th Aug '14
5.7 Serpent referendaire

The meat of the climbing is all lay-back, so it climbs at about 5.7. But protecting is noticeable harder -- and the gear can be a bit tricky, so protecting it makes it noticeably harder than the 5.7 TR/follow grade.

Very Good Trad 25m Montagne d'Argent
Sun 17th Aug '14
5.8 Chute Libre

Fun TR - a bit thin at the top.

Mixed 20m, 1 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 17th Aug '14
5.10b Lucky Luke

Decided to try and lead it. After about 5 falls at the crux, just bailed. Again, a slightly damp day didn't help.

Good Sport 24m, 10 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 17th Aug '14
5.10a Pathfinder

One fall. Damn. Of course, the key hold for the move I fell on was soaking wet. Should go better next time.

Good Sport 25m, 8 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 17th Aug '14
5.9 * Piglet

Another hang-dog attempt. This climb is unusually steep at the start for a climb in the Grand Canyon, especially at its grade. And, with the holds all slightly damp, I just couldn't pull the lead.

Very Good Sport 25m, 7 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 17th Aug '14
5.8 ** L'Ecaille du Dragon

Always a tough, burly, lead. Wish I'd brought my #4 for after mounting the flake.

C4 #2, #3x2, #4. Then something smaller for near the end -- maybe pink or red tri-cam.

Very Good Mixed 25m, 3 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 10th Aug '14
5.8 * La Gaillarde

It looks like a crack climb, but much of the meat of the climb is really face climbing around the crack which is too small for real jams, and the crack being used for gear. And, the gear is all sizes -- I placed pieces from a BD C3 #0 through a BD wired hex #10 (red) placed sideways.

Very Good Mixed 25m, 1 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 10th Aug '14
5.9 * La Griffon

This time lead it right from the start. Can I red-point something I've already flashed? Hm... hard to say. Call it a lead-clean, I guess.

Very Good Mixed 25m, 3 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 10th Aug '14
5.9 ** La Saint-Ambroise

Lead it twice, slipped on the 2nd one -- but caught myself before I weighted the rope. Was getting just a bit too casual about it.

Classic Sport 20m, 6 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 10th Aug '14
5.10a * La Saint-Georges

Used the 2nd crack for the upper section, rather than climbing the off-width, so only 5.10a rather than 5.10b. Still happy to get it clean, with solid jams in the lower part.

Very Good Trad 20m Montagne d'Argent
Sun 10th Aug '14
5.9 ** Smeghead - alternate finish

Linked up the start of "La Corneille" which has a couple nice 5.9ish moves to the first bolt, to give a bit more variety than climbing "Smeghead"'s start. Need to come back and lead this, now.

Very Good Sport 13m, 5 Mont Rigaud
Sat 9th Aug '14
5.9 *** Smeg Head

Despite having both feet peel at one point, I managed to hold on for the red point. A very good route.

Very Good Sport 13m, 5 Mont Rigaud
Sat 9th Aug '14
5.9 Tremble Cleft

Not all that hard, but tricky to read.

Sport 14m, 5 Mont Rigaud
Sat 9th Aug '14
5.6 Shish-Kebob Good Sport 15m, 7 Mont Rigaud
Sat 9th Aug '14
5.7 Sponge Bob

Tri-cams only lead. Cause tri-cams are what I had with me.

Good Trad 15m Mont Rigaud
Sat 9th Aug '14
5.8 * This Bob's For You

A fun climb, and maybe on of the easier 5.8s at Rigaud.

Very Good Sport 15m Mont Rigaud
Sat 9th Aug '14
5.8 Mr Toady's Dihedral

Went pretty smoothly on top-rope, though. Just got to commit above that top piece, with iffy fall potential when on lead.

Good Mixed 1 Gatineau Hills
Thu 7th Aug '14
5.8 Mr Toady's Dihedral

Made a lead attempt. After 3 falls, one pulling my top piece, in the moves before clipping the bolt, I bailed out to the left, and climbed up the wall/dihedral around the left arete. It actually takes pretty good gear and is decent climbing. Might be worth cleaning as a route.

Very Good Mixed 1 Gatineau Hills
Thu 7th Aug '14
5.6 ** Neruda

Placed 4 pieces this time, not three. Smoother than last time, though. This climb is starting to truly feel easy -- 5.6 -- to me.

Very Good Trad Gatineau Hills
Thu 7th Aug '14
5.9 ** Smeghead - alternate finish

Dropped a TR on this thinking it was Smeghead. I guess it kind of was. Fun climbing on the traverse into the corner, then up the corner.

Very Good Sport 13m, 5 Mont Rigaud
Mon 4th Aug '14
5.9 *** Smeg Head

Climbed the alternate finish first, so climbed starting the initial section under the bolt to the left -- might be start of La Corneille instead. A touch harder than the regular start, I think.

Very Good Sport 13m, 5 Mont Rigaud
Mon 4th Aug '14
5.8 Stigmata

Warm-up for the day.

Good Sport 15m, 5 Mont Rigaud
Mon 4th Aug '14
5.9 Kegel Krunch

Hard work up to the ledge at the top of the V-slot, then easy walking to the top from there.

Stepped right a bit late, I think, on lead -- did it more direct on TR afterwards to clean.

Good Sport 5 Mont Rigaud
Mon 4th Aug '14
5.8 The Morning After Average Sport 11m Mont Rigaud
Mon 4th Aug '14
5.8 ** Combustion Lente

Hard to label... re-climbing of the first pitch, but on-sight of the 2nd pitch... call it a red-point? Sure.

First pitch is a great mix of crack and face climbing, with a lot of interesting moves. Gear is a bit tricky lower down, then solid higher up. 2nd pitch starts ugly, but then good climbing -- mostly slab, rock-overs and mantles onto slipping ledges with less-than-solid hands or feet. Gear is mostly small, but generally there (suplemented by a few bolts) when needed.

Very Good Mixed 65m, 4 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 3rd Aug '14
5.10a Pathfinder

Clean on TR, but not entirely happy with how I did it. Didn't feel elegant, not sure about leading it with the moves I did.

Good Sport 25m, 8 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 3rd Aug '14
5.10b Lucky Luke

Finally pulled the upper crux clean -- dodged the lower crux to the right. Need to think about working on lower crux (look interesting) and leading this.

Good Sport 24m, 10 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 3rd Aug '14
5.9 * Pockets of Pleasure

Getting tired - last route of the day. I should be able to get it clean with another try.

The pockets are nice -- when they run out, though, that's when the real climbing starts.

Good Sport 7m, 2 Red Rock: Pet Wall
Sat 2nd Aug '14
5.8 * Peanut Butter and Jelly (PBJ)

Went back and top-roped it clean, with a reasonable finishing sequence.

Good Sport 13m, 4 Red Rock: Pet Wall
Sat 2nd Aug '14
5.9 * Monkey Business

Went back and top-roped it clean.

Good Sport 13m, 4 Red Rock: Pet Wall
Sat 2nd Aug '14
5.8 * Peanut Butter and Jelly (PBJ)

Lead it, but didn't figure the top sequence, so finished to the anchor to the left, then stepped right to this anchor.

Good Sport 13m, 4 Red Rock: Pet Wall
Sat 2nd Aug '14
5.7 In the Pursuit (of fire)

Obvious 5.7 face climbing.

Average Sport 12m, 3 Red Rock: Pet Wall
Sat 2nd Aug '14
5.6 * The Good Book

Occasionally found the moves hard to read, but easy to execute once I figured out what they were.

Average Sport 10m, 3 Red Rock: Pet Wall
Sat 2nd Aug '14
5.9 ** Handicap Exit

My favourite climb at the cliff -- I loved the moves, and figuring out the sequence.

Classic Sport 15m, 4 Red Rock: Pet Wall
Sat 2nd Aug '14
5.9 Ethical Dilemna

Some burly climbing -- definitely felt the 5.9+. One fall, though felt like I was almost going to peel at the top, too.

Mixed 14m, 2 Red Rock: Pet Wall
Sat 2nd Aug '14
5.9 * Monkey Business

Getting a bit tired, ended up hang-dogging my way up this climb. Especially had trouble figuring out the crux move past the horizontal break -- several lead falls.

Good Sport 13m, 4 Red Rock: Pet Wall
Sat 2nd Aug '14
5.3 * Ground Zero

Climbed it barefoot. The nice, sticky, grippy rock when you're in rock shoes -- it's sharp on bare feet. Ouch.

Very Good Sport 25m, 10 Gatineau Hills
Thu 31st Jul '14
5.9 Illusion

The MdA book lists this as a "mixed" route, but really it can be lead as sport. I did put one tri-cam in at one point, but it wasn't really needed.

Good Sport 25m, 8 Montagne d'Argent
Sat 26th Jul '14
5.7 La Voie de Pooh

I found the lead of the traverse quite committing -- I was in groundfall range at at least one point, and found the gear tricky to find and place. Especially in advance, it was difficult to see where the next piece might be.

Good Mixed 40m, 2 Montagne d'Argent
Sat 26th Jul '14
5.6 Madame la Marquise

It was dry this time, making the top an easier finish.

Good Trad 20m Montagne d'Argent
Sat 26th Jul '14
5.10a Coda

A few rivulets running down it, and wet at the top. Got all but the crux slab bit, which took a couple tries.

Very Good Sport 13m, 3 Gatineau Hills
Sun 13th Jul '14

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