793 Ascents by David Gibbs

 

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Grade Route Quality Style Crag Climber Date
5.8 Le Retour des Loups-Garous Good Sport 20m, 6 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 14th Sep '14

Picked the wrong bad foot hold, instead of the right bad foot hold in the crux section and slipped for a whole 1/2 m lead fall. Oh well. Did the extension, cause the no-hands slab is fun.

5.9 Illusion Good Sport 25m, 8 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 14th Sep '14

Warm up.

5.9 La Cha-cha des Félins Good Sport 28m, 7 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 14th Sep '14

Hadn't climbed it in a few years... a fun lead.

5.7 Les Acrobates de l'Espace Good Trad 25m Montagne d'Argent
Sun 14th Sep '14

Muddy up to the start, and a bit damp, but a fun lead.

5.7 La Belle de Cadix Average Sport 14m, 4 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 14th Sep '14

Was a bit damp, so felt a bit harder than its grade -- had a foot slip on the first move or two.

5.6 (unknown 3) Average Sport 12m, 3 Gatineau Hills
Sat 6th Sep '14
5.9 (unknown 2) Good Sport 16m, 5 Gatineau Hills
Sat 6th Sep '14
5.8 * Mr Clean Classic Sport 16m, 5 Gatineau Hills
Sat 6th Sep '14

At least this one went smoothly. After my lead of Ethics Police, I wasn't sure.

5.8 * Ethics Police Very Good Mixed 16m, 4 Gatineau Hills
Sat 6th Sep '14

Horribly, butchered, lead. Well, just the crux section. But still awful.

5.6 (unkown 11) Average Top rope 17m Calabogie
Mon 1st Sep '14

Not sure if it is leadable... not a lot of gear lower down. Will have to look again higher up... but might be slinging trees for a couple of the protection points.

6 Heidetritt Good Sport 25m, 7 Albtal
Sat 30th Aug '14

Guide & rock wall says 6+ for this one, but on here it is listed as 6. Felt definitely softer than Viel Gluuck (which was 6+, too), so probably only a 6.

A good climb, too.

6+ Viel Glück Very Good Sport 28m, 8 Albtal
Sat 30th Aug '14

Missed figuring out one sequence, and lost the on-sight. Oh well.

A good climb with some interesting problems.

6 Luftikus Good Sport 30m, 9 Albtal
Sat 30th Aug '14
7 *** Schwieriger Riss Classic Sport 30m, 11 Albtal
Sat 30th Aug '14

So close to climbing it clean... just didn't figure out one short sequence. Might have done better with my crack gloves, too.

An incredible, varied climb. Laybacks, chimneys, ramps, jams, face -- everything, and always feeling steeper than it looks from the ground.

6+ Muskelriss Good Sport 33m, 14 Albtal
Sat 30th Aug '14
7- Magic Mushrooms Good Sport 30m, 9 Albtal
Sat 30th Aug '14

Got a good way up before taking a couple good lead falls, nope. Backed off to Herzklolpfen (6-) to finish off.

6- Biberrampe Good Sport 33m, 11 Albtal
Sat 30th Aug '14

Was damp, which made the climb a bit more exciting to lead. Turned out to be a pretty good warm-up, though.

6a *** Quarzo Classic Sport 420m Speroni di Ponte Brolla
Wed 27th Aug '14

Lovely slab climbing with an enjoyable steeper finish. Descent is not so pleasant.

6a Tintangel Classic Sport 120m Hintisberg
Thu 28th Aug '14

Climbed both 6a pitches clean, had to rest on the 6b+ (2nd pitch) but made all the moves without aid, also one rest on the 5c+ pitch. Should have got it clean -- but just too tired. Got the two 6a pitches clean, though, so listing as 2nd clean at 6a.

6a+ *** Metorit-Komination Classic Sport 200m Cheselenflue
Mon 25th Aug '14

A beautiful climb on mostly good rock (though with a couple bands of choss to get through). Wouldn't want to follow another team up, though. I got it clean except for the final crux section at the end of the last pitch. Should have lead pitch 4, too -- but was scared of unprotected chossy start.

5c Primavera Good Sport 180m Hintisberg
Sun 24th Aug '14

After waiting for a while, we decided to try something... I had to aid through the 6c pitch (of course) but got the 2nd pitch clean, despite cold hands.

6a+ ** Direkter Pfeiler Classic Sport 150m Klus
Sat 23rd Aug '14

A great climb.

5.5 Seconds Out Average Trad 20m Calabogie
Wed 20th Aug '14

Soaking wet, it is a bit trickier to climb this.

5.10b Escouade tactile Sport 25m, 6 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 17th Aug '14

Upper face is fun face climbing, but the crux is the slab/friction work lower down.

5.7 Serpent referendaire Very Good Trad 25m Montagne d'Argent
Sun 17th Aug '14

The meat of the climbing is all lay-back, so it climbs at about 5.7. But protecting is noticeable harder -- and the gear can be a bit tricky, so protecting it makes it noticeably harder than the 5.7 TR/follow grade.

5.8 Chute Libre Mixed 20m, 1 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 17th Aug '14

Fun TR - a bit thin at the top.

5.10b Lucky Luke Good Sport 24m, 10 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 17th Aug '14

Decided to try and lead it. After about 5 falls at the crux, just bailed. Again, a slightly damp day didn't help.

5.10a Pathfinder Good Sport 25m, 8 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 17th Aug '14

One fall. Damn. Of course, the key hold for the move I fell on was soaking wet. Should go better next time.

5.9 * Piglet Very Good Sport 25m, 7 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 17th Aug '14

Another hang-dog attempt. This climb is unusually steep at the start for a climb in the Grand Canyon, especially at its grade. And, with the holds all slightly damp, I just couldn't pull the lead.

5.8 ** L'Ecaille du Dragon Very Good Mixed 25m, 3 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 10th Aug '14

Always a tough, burly, lead. Wish I'd brought my #4 for after mounting the flake.

C4 #2, #3x2, #4. Then something smaller for near the end -- maybe pink or red tri-cam.

5.8 * La Gaillarde Very Good Mixed 25m, 1 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 10th Aug '14

It looks like a crack climb, but much of the meat of the climb is really face climbing around the crack which is too small for real jams, and the crack being used for gear. And, the gear is all sizes -- I placed pieces from a BD C3 #0 through a BD wired hex #10 (red) placed sideways.

5.9 * La Griffon Very Good Mixed 25m, 3 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 10th Aug '14

This time lead it right from the start. Can I red-point something I've already flashed? Hm... hard to say. Call it a lead-clean, I guess.

5.9 ** La Saint-Ambroise Classic Sport 20m, 6 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 10th Aug '14

Lead it twice, slipped on the 2nd one -- but caught myself before I weighted the rope. Was getting just a bit too casual about it.

5.10a * La Saint-Georges Very Good Trad 20m Montagne d'Argent
Sun 10th Aug '14

Used the 2nd crack for the upper section, rather than climbing the off-width, so only 5.10a rather than 5.10b. Still happy to get it clean, with solid jams in the lower part.

5.9 ** Smeghead - alternate finish Very Good Sport 13m, 5 Mont Rigaud
Sat 9th Aug '14

Linked up the start of "La Corneille" which has a couple nice 5.9ish moves to the first bolt, to give a bit more variety than climbing "Smeghead"'s start. Need to come back and lead this, now.

5.9 *** Smeg Head Very Good Sport 13m, 5 Mont Rigaud
Sat 9th Aug '14

Despite having both feet peel at one point, I managed to hold on for the red point. A very good route.

5.9 Tremble Cleft Sport 14m, 5 Mont Rigaud
Sat 9th Aug '14

Not all that hard, but tricky to read.

5.6 Shish-Kebob Good Sport 15m, 7 Mont Rigaud
Sat 9th Aug '14
5.7 Sponge Bob Good Trad 15m Mont Rigaud
Sat 9th Aug '14

Tri-cams only lead. Cause tri-cams are what I had with me.

5.8 * This Bob's For You Very Good Sport 15m Mont Rigaud
Sat 9th Aug '14

A fun climb, and maybe on of the easier 5.8s at Rigaud.

5.8 Mr Toady's Dihedral Good Mixed 1 Gatineau Hills
Thu 7th Aug '14

Went pretty smoothly on top-rope, though. Just got to commit above that top piece, with iffy fall potential when on lead.

5.8 Mr Toady's Dihedral Very Good Mixed 1 Gatineau Hills
Thu 7th Aug '14

Made a lead attempt. After 3 falls, one pulling my top piece, in the moves before clipping the bolt, I bailed out to the left, and climbed up the wall/dihedral around the left arete. It actually takes pretty good gear and is decent climbing. Might be worth cleaning as a route.

5.6 ** Neruda Very Good Trad Gatineau Hills
Thu 7th Aug '14

Placed 4 pieces this time, not three. Smoother than last time, though. This climb is starting to truly feel easy -- 5.6 -- to me.

5.9 ** Smeghead - alternate finish Very Good Sport 13m, 5 Mont Rigaud
Mon 4th Aug '14

Dropped a TR on this thinking it was Smeghead. I guess it kind of was. Fun climbing on the traverse into the corner, then up the corner.

5.9 *** Smeg Head Very Good Sport 13m, 5 Mont Rigaud
Mon 4th Aug '14

Climbed the alternate finish first, so climbed starting the initial section under the bolt to the left -- might be start of La Corneille instead. A touch harder than the regular start, I think.

5.8 Stigmata Good Sport 15m, 5 Mont Rigaud
Mon 4th Aug '14

Warm-up for the day.

5.9 Kegel Krunch Good Sport 5 Mont Rigaud
Mon 4th Aug '14

Hard work up to the ledge at the top of the V-slot, then easy walking to the top from there.

Stepped right a bit late, I think, on lead -- did it more direct on TR afterwards to clean.

5.8 The Morning After Average Sport 11m Mont Rigaud
Mon 4th Aug '14
5.8 ** Combustion Lente Very Good Mixed 65m, 4 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 3rd Aug '14

Hard to label... re-climbing of the first pitch, but on-sight of the 2nd pitch... call it a red-point? Sure.

First pitch is a great mix of crack and face climbing, with a lot of interesting moves. Gear is a bit tricky lower down, then solid higher up. 2nd pitch starts ugly, but then good climbing -- mostly slab, rock-overs and mantles onto slipping ledges with less-than-solid hands or feet. Gear is mostly small, but generally there (suplemented by a few bolts) when needed.

5.10a Pathfinder Good Sport 25m, 8 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 3rd Aug '14

Clean on TR, but not entirely happy with how I did it. Didn't feel elegant, not sure about leading it with the moves I did.

5.10b Lucky Luke Good Sport 24m, 10 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 3rd Aug '14

Finally pulled the upper crux clean -- dodged the lower crux to the right. Need to think about working on lower crux (look interesting) and leading this.

5.9 * Pockets of Pleasure Good Sport 7m, 2 Red Rock: Pet Wall
Sat 2nd Aug '14

Getting tired - last route of the day. I should be able to get it clean with another try.

The pockets are nice -- when they run out, though, that's when the real climbing starts.

5.8 * Peanut Butter and Jelly (PBJ) Good Sport 13m, 4 Red Rock: Pet Wall
Sat 2nd Aug '14

Went back and top-roped it clean, with a reasonable finishing sequence.

5.9 * Monkey Business Good Sport 13m, 4 Red Rock: Pet Wall
Sat 2nd Aug '14

Went back and top-roped it clean.

5.8 * Peanut Butter and Jelly (PBJ) Good Sport 13m, 4 Red Rock: Pet Wall
Sat 2nd Aug '14

Lead it, but didn't figure the top sequence, so finished to the anchor to the left, then stepped right to this anchor.

5.7 In the Pursuit (of fire) Average Sport 12m, 3 Red Rock: Pet Wall
Sat 2nd Aug '14

Obvious 5.7 face climbing.

5.6 * The Good Book Average Sport 10m, 3 Red Rock: Pet Wall
Sat 2nd Aug '14

Occasionally found the moves hard to read, but easy to execute once I figured out what they were.

5.9 ** Handicap Exit Classic Sport 15m, 4 Red Rock: Pet Wall
Sat 2nd Aug '14

My favourite climb at the cliff -- I loved the moves, and figuring out the sequence.

5.9 Ethical Dilemna Mixed 14m, 2 Red Rock: Pet Wall
Sat 2nd Aug '14

Some burly climbing -- definitely felt the 5.9+. One fall, though felt like I was almost going to peel at the top, too.

5.9 * Monkey Business Good Sport 13m, 4 Red Rock: Pet Wall
Sat 2nd Aug '14

Getting a bit tired, ended up hang-dogging my way up this climb. Especially had trouble figuring out the crux move past the horizontal break -- several lead falls.

5.3 Ground Zero Very Good Sport 25m, 10 Gatineau Hills
Thu 31st Jul '14

Climbed it barefoot. The nice, sticky, grippy rock when you're in rock shoes -- it's sharp on bare feet. Ouch.

5.9 Illusion Good Sport 25m, 8 Montagne d'Argent
Sat 26th Jul '14

The MdA book lists this as a "mixed" route, but really it can be lead as sport. I did put one tri-cam in at one point, but it wasn't really needed.

5.7 La Voie de Pooh Good Mixed 40m, 2 Montagne d'Argent
Sat 26th Jul '14

I found the lead of the traverse quite committing -- I was in groundfall range at at least one point, and found the gear tricky to find and place. Especially in advance, it was difficult to see where the next piece might be.

5.6 Madame la Marquise Good Trad 20m Montagne d'Argent
Sat 26th Jul '14

It was dry this time, making the top an easier finish.

5.10a Coda Very Good Sport 13m, 3 Gatineau Hills
Sun 13th Jul '14

A few rivulets running down it, and wet at the top. Got all but the crux slab bit, which took a couple tries.

V0 High Rising Traverse Average DWS Lac Sam
Sat 28th Jun '14
V7 Left side of Big Rock DWS 7m Lac Sam
Tue 1st Jul '14

Broke a hold, and ripped my finger open. Stopped trying at that point.

V6 Main Crack Very Good DWS 7m Lac Sam
Sat 28th Jun '14

Another try, another splash.

5.8 * Gneiss and Grandy Very Good Sport 15m, 7 Lac Sam
Sat 28th Jun '14

Yeah, on re-climbing, this is probably more like 5.8 than 5.7.

5.6 Dave, Dave, Dave of the Jungle Good Trad 25m Lac Sam
Sun 29th Jun '14

Lead it again -- found another couple gear placements in the (previously thought to be) run-out section. Both small (including a white tri-cam) but ok.

5.3 Bill le Crapaud Good Trad 12m Montagne d'Argent
Sun 22nd Jun '14

First placement is quite high, almost 1/2 way up the climb -- but placements are decent. (Guide lists as TR.)

5.4 Kenneth le Grand Inquisiteur Average Mixed 12m, 1 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 22nd Jun '14

A bit dirty -- doesn't seem to be climbed a lot.

The gear is not... great. Then again, the guide does list it as a top-rope.

5.8 Le Retour des Loups-Garous Good Sport 20m, 6 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 22nd Jun '14

Enjoyable climbing, with two sections of thin moves -- to the first anchor, and from the first to 2nd anchor.

5.4 La Motte Average Trad 15m Montagne d'Argent
Sun 22nd Jun '14

Was a bit dirty.

5.7 Triplets Good Trad 22m Montagne d'Argent
Sun 22nd Jun '14

Nice climbing. Doesn't have the 2 bolts listed in the guidebook -- you just have to run it out at the top.

5.10b Lucky Luke Average Sport 24m, 10 Montagne d'Argent
Sun 22nd Jun '14

Tried pulling the lower crux -- not successful. Might go with work? Dodged it after a couple tries. Fell on upper crux, too.

5.8 (unkown) Average Sport 14m, 3 Gatineau Hills
Sat 21st Jun '14

Got it clean on top-rope. Of the lines I've climbed here, probably the least interesting.

5.8 * Ethics Police Very Good Mixed 16m, 4 Gatineau Hills
Sat 21st Jun '14

I remembered how to do the crux from previous try, so it went pretty well. A good climb.

5.9 (unknown 2) Good Sport 16m, 5 Gatineau Hills
Sat 21st Jun '14

A bit of a squeeze-job, but climbs well if you can find the moves -- isn't an obvious walk-up.

5.8 * Mr Clean Classic Sport 16m, 5 Gatineau Hills
Sat 21st Jun '14

Definitely a great climb. Love the no-hands-rest mid-way.

5.6 Stage Left Average Mixed 3 Calabogie
Thu 19th Jun '14

High first bolt -- a bit annoying when wet. Easy-going until the last few moves.

5.6 Stage Right Good Sport 4 Calabogie
Thu 19th Jun '14

Definitely the better of the pair -- far more consistent climbing at grade.

5.9 ** Hakuna-Matata Good Sport 15m Calabogie
Thu 19th Jun '14

Took a few tries to re-work out the opening sequence on TR (didn't have a stick clip), then rest went fine.

5.5 Calabogie Sunset Good Mixed 15m, 3 Calabogie
Thu 19th Jun '14

Crux is getting to first bolt -- thin, not very re-assuring, but ok.

5.10d ** Security Very Good Mixed 2 Gatineau Hills
Sun 15th Jun '14

Got the lower sequence pretty smooth and easy, but took about 4 tries at the crux. I think I may have a slightly better sequence now, but will need to try again soonish.

5.6 ** Neruda Classic Trad Gatineau Hills
Sun 15th Jun '14

Lead it again. Goes pretty comfortably, now.

5.3 Falling Frog Average Trad 30m Lac Sam
Sat 14th Jun '14

Wet, with a pack full of gear makes it a bit more work.

5.6 (unknown 3) Average Sport 12m, 3 Gatineau Hills
Sun 8th Jun '14

A nice warmup, and handy for putting a TR on Coda.

5.10a Coda Very Good Sport 13m, 3 Gatineau Hills
Sun 8th Jun '14

Lovely thin slab moves with minimal hands. I took a couple falls on TR, but want to come back and lead it.

5.8 * Mr Clean Sport 16m, 5 Gatineau Hills
Sun 8th Jun '14

Took a fall at the start, and a rest near the end. I think I can put it together, though. A very good route, but quite stiff for a 5.8.

5.8 (unkown) Don't Bother Sport 14m, 3 Gatineau Hills
Sun 8th Jun '14

Did it on TR, set by traversing at top from anchors of Ethics Police (easy to do).

Inconsistent climbing. High first bolt, and bad fall potential later in the route. Probably shouldn't be lead unless solid in the grade.

5.7 * Know When to Hold'em Good Trad 31m Lac Sam
Sat 7th Jun '14

Lead it again. Gear is finicky at the start, I used a (little) white tri-cam, and not sure the rock is strong either.

Still contemplating a bolt to protect the opening.

5.7 Giggles Average Sport 25m, 8 Lac Sam
Sat 7th Jun '14

Bolted it, let Phil get the FA, then lead it. Goes nicely. Also, chopped the tree branch off the climb on the way down, making it nicer. Climb still needs another top-to-bottom brushing, though.

5.7 * Gneiss and Grandy Very Good Sport 15m, 7 Lac Sam
Wed 4th Jun '14

Yup, still happy with this route, and with the grade. 5.7, but sometimes takes a bit of work to find the 5.7 move each place. I should re-clean the top (ledge) as its picked up a bit of moss.

5.8 Little Deuce Coupe Very Good Sport 12m, 6 Lac Sam
Wed 4th Jun '14

Lead it again, after a while away from it, to see how the grade felt. The last clip after the crux feels tenuous -- but the feet are solid while you search for a hand-hold to clip from.

36-24-36 Top rope 13m Lac Sam
Wed 4th Jun '14

Bottom was easy -- 5.7ish. Couldn't pull the roof. Maybe once hand holds are clean and solid, I'll get it... we'll see. I'm guessing about 5.10ish (maybe 5.10- but the type of move that I'm not good at).

5.10b The Wide Crack Good Sport 8m Mont Rigaud
Sun 1st Jun '14

Climbs more like a crack then the climb to the left, actually got some good jams in on this, only lay-backing a bit going over the bulge at the top.

5.10b The Crack Average Trad Mont Rigaud
Sun 1st Jun '14

Short, hard. Climbs more like hard face than crack.

5.8 Stigmata Good Sport 15m, 5 Mont Rigaud
Sun 1st Jun '14

Warm-up climb for the day. Nice enough, and better bolting than some of the stuff at Mont Rigaud.

5.6 (Slab right of Flaky Flake) Average Trad 17m Calabogie
Sat 31st May '14

Another climb with adequate, rather than good, gear. Also probably PG. Crux section is protected by a smallish nut that isn't particularly deeply set.

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