More than 1,000 Ascents by Paul Thomson

 
Searching in:

Route filters:

Ascent filters:

Climber filters:

Sort by:

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 1,000 ascents

Grade Route Quality Style Crag Climber Date
Sat 31st Jan '15 - North Esk
Riverbend
25 ** Sophie's Choice

4 shots in an hour (the maximum amount of time I had to tick it, or risk missing my ferry back to the mainland). Very bouldery start, then a no-hands kneebar before a powerful and sustained thin middle section with an easier final third (on deteriorating rock). 2nd shot I had a silly footslip down low. 3rd was the highpoint to the last hard move before the easy upper section... I even skipped a clip against the pump and had a good fall. 4th was to just below my highpoint... too wornout.

Very Good Sport 15m North Esk Paul Thomson
Sat 31st Jan '15
19 * Eiffel Tower

Takes less time to climb than it does to put your shoes on to climb it, but all of moves are worthwhile, especially for the grade. Nice low-grade arete climbing. A bit exciting getting to the 1st bolt if you do the direct start up the arete.

Very Good Sport 12m North Esk Paul Thomson
Sat 31st Jan '15
21 ** Reculer Pour Mieux Sauter

Soft at trad 21. Perfect splitter crag which is hard for the 1st half, has an obvious fingerlock crux in the middle, and an easy perfect handcrack 2nd half. Sure it's short, but damn its good.

Classic Trad 14m North Esk Paul Thomson
Sat 31st Jan '15
Fri 30th Jan '15 - South Sister
Tea Pot Rocks
24 *** Camellia

2 shots. TOTALLY punted the 2nd shot after all the hard moves by entering into the final sequence one sequence too soon! Or as Ingvar said: "you looked like you were having so much fun climbing that you forgot that you were climbing". Though short, this is a stunningly sustained technical (and burly) arete climb (using both sides of the pillar) which is COMPLETELY independent from the not-so-good Last of the Grey Nomads to the right. A real gem.

Classic Sport 15m, 7 South Sister Paul Thomson
Fri 30th Jan '15
25 *** Insanitea (Andrew's New 25/26)

4 shots (though #2 and #3 was me falling off in the first 3m and coming straight back to the ground without untying). Technical and unweildly for the first 2/3rds, with an easier (gr22ish) upper. The start (1st crux) is either a compression nightmare or an exercise is tricky footwork and fingernail edges (I chose the latter), while the long middlecrux is desperately thin, balancy and contortionist, and culminates in a throw, then a dyno on smeared feet! 4th shot was with 1 fall at middle crux.

Classic Sport 18m, 8 South Sister Paul Thomson
Fri 30th Jan '15
24 ** Mr Tea

2nd shot. Burly and technical in equal doses. The thuggy but awkward start leads to a balancy arete and a ridiculous throw leaving it to gain a good edge. My onsight ended on the top arete. The 2nd shot with the sequence dialled felt great. Good rock. Quite sustained but with good stances.

Very Good Sport 18m, 7 South Sister Paul Thomson
Fri 30th Jan '15
Thu 29th Jan '15 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Rockaway Gully
26 Completion Backwards Principle

Top Rope Solo. Definately not clean, and I was asking to be punished for getting on this. It was raining, the rock was wet and the summit wind was blowing. Freed first 2/3rds with a few rests despite the wet, but could hardly move my frozen hands by the final 1/3rd and battled to the anchor without putting together viable (repeatable) sequences. Awesome seam-crack and feature climbing on a thin, technical, just off-vertical face. Once an aid route, it now makes a great free route. Some gear req.

Very Good Sport 27m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Thu 29th Jan '15
Lost World
22 *** Savage Journey

Top Rope Solo. Strenuous! The off-width and sustained steep hand jamming were awesome, but I battled with the 6m fist section (especially with my thin hands) and worked hard through it. Stubbornly I'm still refusing to use tape, and came close to regretting it today. Those fist jams were torture on the skin. Great rock and line!

Classic Trad 30m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Wed 28th Jan '15
20 * Lost Wanderer Direct Start

Top Rope Solo. Sure, it was a bit damp, but I still thought the direct start felt about gr20 with a few strenuous moves in (and around) the thin crack. Okay climbing, but not as pleasant as the original.

Good Trad 25m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Wed 28th Jan '15
18 ** Lost Wanderer

Top Rope Solo. Damp today but still pleasant enough. A nice route that forces both hands and feet into the crack, but maybe not 3 stars.

Very Good Trad 25m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Wed 28th Jan '15
Mon 26th Jan '15 - Ben Lomond
Robin's Buttress
21 Faith Defended

Hmm... decided to try and climb this as an alternative to the unprotectable offwidth start to Rigaudon, despite rock and gear looking marginal (and perhaps imagined in existance) at best. Onsight to halfway, refused to commit to the last 2m of hard climbing and fell onto a half-placed wire. Played around and got higher but still wouldnt commit to the last hard arete move and fell some more. Reverse-aid-climbed back to the ground. Lots of marginal gear, but fiddly in dubious rock. 2 ropes a must

Good Trad 12m Ben Lomond Paul Thomson
Mon 26th Jan '15
Robin's Buttress
19 *** Ramadan

Amazing... super sustained, STRENUOUS and HARD.45m of awesome! The whole climb is harder if you're tall (thems the breaks), but the first 6m is bloody nails. I fell off with epic forearm pump 6m up. Lowered to the ground then went to the top. Technical, varied, and even a tad thrutchy. Mega!

Mega Classic Trad 80m Ben Lomond Paul Thomson
Mon 26th Jan '15
18 *** Rajah

One of the best pure splitters I've ever done, though its mostly wide hands and fists for me. In between storms I raced up this, only to be snowed upon as I abseiled back down. Its certainly epic here.

Classic Trad 80m Ben Lomond Paul Thomson
Sun 25th Jan '15
Fri 23rd Jan '15 - Coles Bay
Hazards Cliffs Star Factory
28 * Soft Option

Onsight to the crux at 2/3rds height. Then put together the sequence to the next bolt (main crux), and had worked out a tricky span sequence to get through the main crux when time and weather decided it was time to bail. The bottomless chimney start is unpleasant and the rock is bad, but from the steep moves under the roof to the crux slab (the angle eases over the entirety of the climb) the rock and moves get better.

Very Good Sport 20m, 8 Coles Bay Paul Thomson
Fri 23rd Jan '15
27 *** Decafe

2 laps. Just playing around really. Put together the bottom undercling-power crux (though never linked it) but never put together a viable sequence for the main crux which would be possible on link. The traverse into and finish up antimatter are pretty rad. Basically an awesomely involved 23 with 2 cruxes, one powerful and the other thin and tricky. Great rock.

Very Good Sport 28m, 11 Coles Bay Paul Thomson
Fri 23rd Jan '15
25 * Pot Bellied Whale

2nd shot. This would be a rad 22 to the good undercling that marks the start of the crux (about 16m up), but the bouldery crux (which FOR ME required some desperate smearing, a back-heel, cross-over match and full-body barndoor, square-heel rockover and a spot of sloper-loving) is a stark contrast to the rest of the route, and kind of sharp with rock rapidly deteriorating the the anchors.

Good Sport 25m, 10 Coles Bay Paul Thomson
Thu 22nd Jan '15
24 *** Promised Land

3 shots. I just COULDNT catch a break with this one. Between the high humidity, sweat, spooge and bad luck, this one still goes unsent. 1st shot it took a bit to figure out the traverse right, then cruised the slab to the top. 2nd shot I cruised to the last bolt then unexpectedly slipped off a spoogy crimp. 3rd shot I slipped off another spoogy crimp lower down on the slab (in the easy section). With the right conditions this is a GREAT climb... I just didn't find them.

Classic Sport 20m Coles Bay Paul Thomson
Thu 22nd Jan '15
Tue 20th Jan '15 - Fingal (Bare Rock)
Boneyard
26 *** Angel of Pain

5 more shots today. 1st - Warmup lap. Fell off mid-crux. 2nd - Tried skipping the crux clip entirely, fell with my hand on the end of crux sloper "jug" and fell past 4 bolts to stop 1m from the ledge. 3rd - Stuck the crux but the edge of my heel-hooked sloper broke off and I fell. 4th - With no rest after 3rd shot. Went again but grabbed the sloper "jug" wrong. 5th - Made it through the crux, clipped post crux draw but fell off a few moves higher... too tired! 6th day on, and 12 shots at this.

Classic Trad 25m Fingal (Bare Rock) Paul Thomson
Tue 20th Jan '15
26 *** Angel of Pain

5 more shots, all with just the 1 fall at different points of the crux. 1st - grabbed crux draw as I hadnt worked the clip into the sequence, and cant skip it. 2nd - Made the crux clip from a totally blind tips layback stance, but in my desperation z-clipped! 3rd - Done with no rest after 2nd, a few crux moves higher but too pumped. 4th - High point to the last move of the crux. After falling found a sneaky heelhook which makes the last move easier. 5th - Lowpoint OTD, just too pumped at 8pm.

Classic Trad 25m Fingal (Bare Rock) Paul Thomson
Mon 19th Jan '15
23 ** Fire in the sky

Repeat. Warmup and breaking in a new set of testarossas. The footwork felt desparate today in my stiff and painful gumby shoes, but the moves are still great.

Very Good Sport 30m, 16 Fingal (Bare Rock) Paul Thomson
Mon 19th Jan '15
Boneyard
26 *** Angel of Pain

2 shots. Proper, bloody HARD. First was a monster dogfest. 2nd was battled downto 2 falls First 6 bolts looks easy but is nails with powerful slippery fingerlocks and openhand slopers. Crux is at the 5th bolt. The 7th and 8th bolt is steep with rad big moves, after which the line joins the gr25 all-gear offwidth to the left (via some powerful moves) at its 2nd crux. Battling up the offwidth and committing to the runouts on gear is a final headf#@k to make you work. Very aesthetically pleasing.

Classic Trad 25m Fingal (Bare Rock) Paul Thomson
Sun 18th Jan '15
23 ** Give a Dog a Bone

Ouch. All gear off-width and v-groove steep chimney does not make a good warmup. Battled up the start at a snails pace, ate up the middle steep jamming and stemming, and breathed HARD on the final sporty steep laybacking. The last moves to the anchors is powerful with your gear far below. Not a true onsight, as I backed off the (easy, committing) start twice and used a cam I'd placed from the ground to get back to the ledge rather than downclimbing.

Very Good Trad 20m Fingal (Bare Rock) Paul Thomson
Sun 18th Jan '15
Sat 17th Jan '15 - South Sister
Tea Pot Rocks
25 Life's Too Short

Onsight through crux to 5th bolt. Ended up off route and fell of trying to get back on. Then clean to the 2nd last bolt. Had a look at the upper arete moves but couldnt be bothered wasting more skin, and with the crazy wind blowing me all over the place I bailed off the bail biner that someone else had left behind. Pretty good arete climbing but sharp and crimpy, and the rock is grainy and sandy.

Very Good Sport 25m, 10 South Sister Paul Thomson
Sat 17th Jan '15
24 Bored to Death

Very hard strenuous start until you can get established in a stemming stance in the groove proper, then nice, thin, technical climbing at about gr22 to the top. A funky looking line.

Very Good Sport 25m, 8 South Sister Paul Thomson
Sat 17th Jan '15
22 I'm a Little Teapot

Aesthetically unappealing, and the rock is rather average, but the climbing is quite good. Consistently thin and balancy. It comes together nicely for some technical trickery.

Very Good Sport 18m South Sister Paul Thomson
Sat 17th Jan '15
22 Big Bang Theory

One very hard sequence (probably utterly nails if you're short) surrounded by easier, okay climbing. Not a great route, by the groove feature looks intriguing.

Good Sport 30m, 10 South Sister Paul Thomson
Sat 17th Jan '15
Fri 16th Jan '15 - Mount Wellington
Lost World
21 *** Atlantis

It was raining proper when we finally made it to Lost World, the crack was soaking and muddy... But dammit I'm going to climb something today! I found all of this insecure, slippery and hard to protect (especially the awkward off-width start)... BUT if you subtract the rain experience this is actually a pretty damn awesome sustained crack climb on perfect rock encompassing a variety of techniques and bomber pro... Just avoid it like the plague in the rain.

Very Good Trad 25m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Fri 16th Jan '15
The Organ Pipes Rockaway Gully
27 *** Slap Dancer

2 shots. Skin destroying arete-slapping, heel-wrapping bouldering like I've never tried before. First lap was a dogs breakfast that destroyed my skin and my muscles. 2nd shot had linkage and sequences coming together, and now theres only 1 move I'm not sure of. Would like to try this again (when my skin heals!). Strenuous, powerful, desperate and insecure, but UNIQUE in my experience.

Very Good Sport 10m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Thu 15th Jan '15
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress
24 *** After Midnight

Nooo... 1 fall turning the upper roof. My sequence was fine, but I was worn out. The bottom 1/3rd of this was damp, and I actually slipped off getting to the 3rd bolt and landed in a tree (violently). Started from the ground straight away and battled to the final crux (though the entire route is SUSTAINED).A monster of a climb that left me drained by the anchors, though its more frimping feature climbing on either side of the arete, and less pure arete movement. Quite classic, but not quite MEGA

Classic Sport 50m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Thu 15th Jan '15
25 ** Chop Sticks The Sequel

2nd shot. 1 fall on the onsight (warm up). Thought this was the bolted 21 arete nearby to do as a warm up. Thought it seemed insanely hard, and insanely runout to the 1st bolt (8m up, gr19 climbing), and scarily runout at the top. In hindsite that would be because we were on the wrong climb, and THIS one is supposed to be supplemented with gear. Only gave this another lap to get the draws back. Good arete climbing with some great (and brutal) sequences which I thought were quite strenuous.

Very Good Sport 30m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Thu 15th Jan '15
Tue 13th Jan '15 - Mount Brown
The Paradiso
23 ** Super Charger

Didn't have any trad gear, so I just didnt place any... The trad-protected moves are only like gr20, but I sure as hell didn't want to fall. Hard, bouldery start with tricky footers, and some wicked moves to gain and mount the arete before the anchors.

Very Good Sport 20m, 6 Mount Brown Paul Thomson
Tue 13th Jan '15
26 *** Retrograde Amnesia

So damn close on the onsight! Made it to the last bolt, 2m from the anchors (past the stemming crux), and slipped off a sea-cliff spoogy open-handed undercling (which I felt solid on) as I went to start the final sequence (about gr23) to the anchors. Awesome, super-blank steep stemming coming after so much climbing, with the final moves to the anchor being especially rad and involved.

Very Good Sport 35m Mount Brown Paul Thomson
Tue 13th Jan '15
22 ** Amnesia

Ummm... probably more 23/24 than 22, but still good steep jugging with 2 prominant rests. Quite enjoyable.

Very Good Sport 25m, 10 Mount Brown Paul Thomson
Tue 13th Jan '15
25 *** Hit and Run

A climb in 3 sections... crazy steep start with big moves on good holds to a rest; shorter, less-steep and less juggy middle-section to another rest; And a final face-climbing headwall with tricky, improbable moves on not-so-good holds to the anchor. The upper section makes this climb! The anchor (which is actually for another climb to the left) needs to be moved about 1m right.

Classic Sport 27m Mount Brown Paul Thomson
Tue 13th Jan '15
22 *** Too Tall Oxen

Long and adventurous with really cool moves up surprising steepness. Some thought provoking sections, but mostly just pleasant steep jugging. Great warmup.

Very Good Sport 32m Mount Brown Paul Thomson
Tue 13th Jan '15
22 * Sponge Bob

Hard for the grade, and intense for a short climb. Powerful undercling moves with tricky feet. This one got me warm!

Very Good Sport 12m Mount Brown Paul Thomson
Tue 13th Jan '15
Mon 12th Jan '15 - Cape Raoul
23 *** The Finger Of Blame

Out there! Wild! Intense! Alas, close but no cigar. At the end of a looong day to climb Pole Dancer, we climbed a gr16 off-width to get to The Finger (and down-climbed it to exit). I managed to Onsight to the last bolt, before breaking a footer in the vague seam that I was backheeling, managing to hold on, and losing my nerve before I could commit to the sideways deadpoint (to grab both aretes at the end). Pulled back on and went to the summit. Intense, precarious and strenuous arete climbing.

Classic Unknown 11m Cape Raoul Paul Thomson
Mon 12th Jan '15
16 ** The Wedding Cake Return Pitch

Climbed the middle off-width from the halfway point to the top. Scarily wet and concerning without any big gear to protect it, but Gene kept it together for the send. Okay climbing... rad position.

Very Good Trad 35m Cape Raoul Paul Thomson
Mon 12th Jan '15
22 *** Pole Dancer

14 hour day car to car (including 2 hour detour to climb the Finger of Blame during the exit). With Gene. O/S the doddle P1, flash the money P2. A great pure-arete P2 in a monolithic position at the end of the world. Arete-slapping, hooking, laybacking and WORKING for the tick (hard for the grade) on this sustained number. Worth the monster day for this beauty.

Classic Mixed 55m, 12 Cape Raoul Paul Thomson
Mon 12th Jan '15
16 ** Route from Wedding Cake to Cape

With Gene. Access shenanigans but it's all part of the overall experience, and the position (and the seals) are outrageous!

Good Trad 300m Cape Raoul Paul Thomson
Mon 12th Jan '15
18 ** Jihad

Good trad climbing at the grade with some nice moves and an exciting step across. Our small rack of gear meant I did this with only 5 pieces of pro... scary!

Very Good Trad 40m Cape Raoul Paul Thomson
Mon 12th Jan '15
18 Rain Of Terror

Not too bad climbimg for an access pitch. Some dubious rock, but some okay moves.

Good Trad 40m Cape Raoul Paul Thomson
Mon 12th Jan '15
Sun 11th Jan '15 - Fortescue Bay
The Totem Pole
25 *** The Free Route

Another dream send to add to the list of mind-blowing climbing memories. Climbed with Gene. P1 - Onsight via Deep Play; P2 - Onsight; and P3 (short trad climb to the summit) - Flash. Adventurous rope management, epic position and staggering sustained arete movement for the full 40m of the money pitch. Hard, thin, tricky to read but blessed by sticky rock. This is truly world-class and I am stoked to be a part of it.

Mega Classic Sport 65m Fortescue Bay Paul Thomson
Sun 11th Jan '15
24 *** Deep Play

Wow! Sustaimed spoogy technical thiness with 2 prominant cruxes and waves lapping at your feet. I struggled with warm-up flash pump as I fought to solve the committing puzzles before I fell off. What a way to commence a dream day on the Tote! Gene belayed from the ledge on the mainland to avoid most of the spray. Used 2 wires and a 0.3 cam between the bolts.

Classic Sport 20m Fortescue Bay Paul Thomson
Sun 11th Jan '15
Fri 9th Jan '15 - Fingal (Bare Rock)
Boneyard
22 * Latex Evening

Just like being back on dogface! Very long (40m) mostly offwidth crack climbing woth a few.bolts in the worst of the choss, woth a spicy layback and thin stemming steep-corner leading to an intimidating sentry-box roof. Not great... but made for a bit of traddy old-schoolfun.

Good Mixed 40m, 10 Fingal (Bare Rock) Paul Thomson
Fri 9th Jan '15
24 *** Redneck Love

My favourite route at the Boneyard, and also the most frustrating. Definately 25! Sustained, long, super-thin technical seam climbing with as much trad gear as bolts and many, many hard moves. I got stomped by the bouldery upper-crux (30m in) leaving the crack and got shut down for quite a while. Even the final slab is hard!

Mega Classic Mixed 35m, 16 Fingal (Bare Rock) Paul Thomson
Fri 9th Jan '15
24 Simons new route

Awesome technical moves that felt About a half grade harder than its 23 neighbour, but the rock is generally of a worse quality and much of it is like climbing on egg-shells. Kind of cruxy, but engagong.

Very Good Sport 30m Fingal (Bare Rock) Paul Thomson
Fri 9th Jan '15
26 *** Velvet Morning

Brilliant and beautiful. Open-hand side-pulling and extreme body-positions a-plenty throughout the entiry of this aesthetic, technical, right-leaning seam-feature. I climbed well on the flash but made a mistake at the 5th bolt and fell, and it took a few falls to turn the lip of the roof at the top. I hope I can get back here for another shot... this beauty begs to be climbed. For the puzzle-solving, technical-minded connoisseur.

Mega Classic Sport 30m, 14 Fingal (Bare Rock) Paul Thomson
Thu 8th Jan '15
24 *** Heaven Can Wait

Unerringly sustained from the very first move to the last. Slightly-steep, technical thin face-climbing with a wide variety of moves. I was on this for a long time fighting for the onsight, and it was worth every second. Classic!

Classic Sport 30m, 14 Fingal (Bare Rock) Paul Thomson
Thu 8th Jan '15
23 ** Fire in the sky

Sustained, technical face climbing that seems to go on forever, marred only by dubious rock in the start and the finish. A good introduction to Bare Rock.

Very Good Sport 30m, 16 Fingal (Bare Rock) Paul Thomson
Thu 8th Jan '15
Wed 7th Jan '15 - Coles Bay
Hazards Cliffs Star Factory
24 *** Promised Land

I was asking for trouble with every inch of this dripping wet, but I couldnt pass up a shot at such an aesthetic line. Fell off on the 4th bolt (moving out right), and again at the last bolt when I unexpectedly exploded off the clipping sloper (before clipping). But considering I was climbing a wet friction slab, Im more than happy with the effort. Thin, techy seam to start, then rad heel-hooking and smearing traverse right, culminating in a long, sustained thin friction slab that is beautiful.

Classic Sport 20m Coles Bay Paul Thomson
Wed 7th Jan '15
23 *** Antimatter

Great, sustained climbing up bizarre granite features with beatiful moves throughout. Didnt seem too hard for a 23, even with a lot of it being quite damp, but was thoroughly enjoyable from start to finish. Aesthetically awe-inspiring. Took a victory whip from the top.

Classic Sport 25m, 9 Coles Bay Paul Thomson
Wed 7th Jan '15
21 * Project - Ben Ikin

Okay climbing, but only briefly interesting. Easy trad start up a chimney and crack to a ledge, with some interesting moves up a double flake system to an abruptly foreshortened finish. An okay warm-up, I suppose.

Good Sport 12m, 6 Coles Bay Paul Thomson
Wed 7th Jan '15
Mon 5th Jan '15 - Mount Brown
Hidden Face
20 M1 Chocolate Brownie (Chocolate Browine)

Good feature climbing from the 2nd bolt up, that will clean up nicely with traffic. The position is wild at the end of the platform, and the first move takes you straight out over the raging void. The direct start to the 2nd bolt is a V3 boulder problem. This can be done at 20M1 by pulling on the first draw until it's at your waist, or climbing up and traversing in from 1.5m left. Really, the 1st bolt needs to be moved left for this to be 20. It also needs a belay bolt.

Average Sport 25m Mount Brown Paul Thomson
Mon 5th Jan '15
Tue 6th Jan '15 - Fortescue Bay
The Moai - Mainland
16 Exit route

With Gene to escape the Moai. Onsight P1, clean 2nd P2. Not as bad climbing as you might expect for an exit climb. P1 is an easy runout (slightly loose) ramble, and P2 is a pleasant series of cracks, and quote easy for the grade.

Average Trad 60m Fortescue Bay Paul Thomson
Tue 6th Jan '15
The Moai
24 ** Ancient Astronaught (Ancient Astronaught p1)

2nd shot. Sustained and varied hardness. Climbed as one giant pitch. 3 of us ticked this climb today, and all 3 climbed the crux 1st pitch COMPLETELY differently in its entirety. For the middle crux section, I used right hand arete-slapping rather than the razor-thin crimping of my friends. The top pitch is dreamy technical climbing, with the first few metres off the halfway anchors being particularly memorable.

Classic Sport 35m Fortescue Bay Paul Thomson
Tue 6th Jan '15
22 *** Blunt instrument linked into Burning spear p2

Climbed as one giant pitch. Amazing gritstone-esque climbing in a stunning position, with a hard flake move at the bottom, and a sustained thin technical arete at the top. Unfortunately the last few metres are contrived, but climbing the natural line makes for a great experience.

Classic Trad 35m Fortescue Bay Paul Thomson
Tue 6th Jan '15
18 *** Sacred Site

Climbed as one big pitch. Amazing exposure and moves at the grade, hanging it all out on gear over the ocean! I belayed on 4 wires at the top of the pillar directly over the ocean for the perfectly atmospheric finale, and rapped off the anchors for the 22 to get back to the ground.

Classic Mixed 35m, 2 Fortescue Bay Paul Thomson
Tue 6th Jan '15
Mon 5th Jan '15 - Mount Brown
Hidden Face
21 *** Psycho-Man (Pshcho-Man)

With Gene. Mega, Mega, Mega, but the first 2 pitches are sandbagged at 21. Clean 2nd P1, Onsight P2 and P3. The first pitch builds nicely to a final series of hard moves including a sideways deadpoint. P2 is unerringly sustained and technical, with most of it consisting of thin steep stemming corners linked by features. This is one of the best pitches I've climbed here. P3 is easy but interesting climbing to the topout. This climb justifies the lomg walk!

Classic Sport 95m Mount Brown Paul Thomson
Mon 5th Jan '15
23 *** Rhime of the Ancient Mariner

A great, committing trad line with a few bolts in the right places. A lot of this climb was wet (the crack was seeping!) and it felt desperate, but great fun. Strenuous start, a thin tricky bridging section in the middle, and a final desperate layback finale.

Very Good Mixed 30m, 2 Mount Brown Paul Thomson
Mon 5th Jan '15
23 ** Wagon Wheel Express

Amazingly varied moves. Thin pumpy layback start, tricky blank bridging in the middle, to a final committing step across move with more thinness to the anchors. Like a series of puzzles to be solved from good stances between moves. Thoroughly enjoyable.

Very Good Sport 25m Mount Brown Paul Thomson
Mon 5th Jan '15
19 * Brown Love

Awesome tricky climbing up a series of flake features with great moves throughout. Damn good value for the grade. The single bolt lower-off is a bit strange.

Very Good Sport 25m, 7 Mount Brown Paul Thomson
Mon 5th Jan '15
20 ** Seaweed Groove

Ugh! The worst climb Ive done in Tassie by far. The guide says this is a 20. The FA when I spoke to him said it's supposed to be deliberately sandbagged at 22, I thought at least 24... But regardless its merely dirty, frible and contrived. Down-climbed from the 3rd bolt to clean.

Don't Bother Sport 18m Mount Brown Paul Thomson
Mon 5th Jan '15
20 ** Starfish Arete

Needs more traffic to clean up, but the moves on this techy arete and the outrageous pumper finish are totally worthwhile. A great warm-up.

Very Good Sport 18m Mount Brown Paul Thomson
Mon 5th Jan '15
The Paradiso
24 *** Offender Of The Faith

2nd shot despite being sick as a dog. I thought I was on track for the onsight, but I made a mistake at the 6th - 7th bolt and threw it all away. Clean to the top from there. 2nd shot I felt tired, but it went easily enough. Great sustained featured climbing in a huge range of styles, that doesnt let up to the anchors. Some spooge made things exciting, but conditions at ~8pm when I sent this were nothing to complain about.

Classic Sport 30m, 10 Mount Brown Paul Thomson
Sat 3rd Jan '15
21 * Man's Machine

Spooged off the moves between 2nd and 3rd bolt on the flash. Came down from there and climbed clean to the top. Still needs more traffic and is a bit gritty, bit the climbing is varied, interesting, long and logical. Could become a classic. Excitingly bolted!

Very Good Sport 32m, 10 Mount Brown Paul Thomson
Sat 3rd Jan '15
21 ** Shock Wave

First climb in Tassie. Spoogy, but with really enjoyable featured movement the whole way. A great introduction.

Very Good Sport 13m, 5 Mount Brown Paul Thomson
Sat 3rd Jan '15
Fri 26th Dec '14 - Chulilla
Chorreras
7c ** Coral Combat

Got on this by mistake thinking it was 7a. Great bouldery sequences... but PAINFUL (its called Coral Combat for a reason). The lower crux is tenuous, strenuous climbing up a right leaning overhanging blunt arete. The middle crux is bouldery thin crimping on razor slimpers with big moves and wacky feet. After that its crimp those coral razor-blades desperately all the way to the top. This would go 2nd shot for sure, but im wrecked, the trips over, and my fingers are now bleeding.

Very Good Sport 30m Chulilla Paul Thomson
Fri 26th Dec '14
El Oasis
7a+ Sendero Sinuoso

Flash placing draws... I belayed Neil and Lucy on this previously (though couldnt glean any beta) so cant claim the onsight. Perfect technical face climbing over 40m... Seldom and downwards-facing positive holds, so the name of the game is extreme body positions. Very sustained right to the anchors. Rather runout.

Mega Classic Sport 40m Chulilla Paul Thomson
Fri 26th Dec '14
Chorreras
7a+ ** Magic Line

Nails start past the first 3 bolts (thin, balancy and with basically no hand or footholds) and another bloody hard move past the 6th (burly and desperate)... then just 30 more metres of awesome improbably steep tufa-ing. Great 3D climbing. Given 7a+/b in the new guide.

Classic Sport 40m Chulilla Paul Thomson
Fri 26th Dec '14
El Oasis
6c+ Orgía Sado En El Internado

A proper 6c+ razor blade edge thin slab. Not a good warmup on a cold morning when you're hungover as hell, but some super thin, balancy and techy sequences.

Very Good Sport Chulilla Paul Thomson
Fri 26th Dec '14
6c Qué Hago Jugando A La Petanca Con Este Cacho De Tranca

Not too hard for the grade, but thin and quite sharp. Okay shortish slab climbing.

Good Sport Chulilla Paul Thomson
Fri 26th Dec '14
Pared de Enfrente
6b+ ** Las Roturas

If you have to bolt a crack, this is how you do it. Awesome technical corner crack with a bloody hard move past a bulge, and awesome face-climbing finale.

Classic Sport 25m Chulilla Paul Thomson
Thu 25th Dec '14
7b+ *** Los Franceses

Utterly stoked. First ONSIGHT 26! The first half is 23/24 roof crack climbing through 2.5 roofs with hard thin powerful moves to turn the lips. The upper half is steep technical tufa-ing with tricky feet that required me to draw on everything I've learned in 4.5 weeks in spain to get through. At one point I was too tired to use the crucial clips and unable to clip, so with a monster runout I committed to a fully fledged dyno to what I thought was a jug it was!). I gave this EVERYTHING!

Mega Classic Sport 35m Chulilla Paul Thomson
Thu 25th Dec '14
7a+ ** Camina o revienta

Super-sustained steep corner crack with tic-tac feet and tricky movement the whole way to the anchors. Bomber rock and thoroughly enjoyable. Not easy at the grade, but very trad... albeit on bolts.

Classic Sport 25m Chulilla Paul Thomson
Thu 25th Dec '14
Sex Shop
7a+ Las Carcamas De La Maja

Very cruxy. Mostly 6c+ish climbing on average rock, with a prominent and unpleasant crux. The mallion on the crux bolt and utter lack of chalk above makes me think most people bail from there. 99% sure I could tick it 2nd shot... but I really didnt enjoy it.

Good Sport Chulilla Paul Thomson
Thu 25th Dec '14
6c La Diagonal R1

30m of steep bolted crack climbing. A great warmup, very enjoyable pumpy jamming, and tricky feet. Tonnes of fun!

Very Good Sport Chulilla Paul Thomson
Thu 25th Dec '14
Chorreras
7b ** Los Merenderas

2nd shot. The flash was with 1 fall at each of the 2 cruxes. 43m of awesome moves, but with some choss (and lots of glue behind flakes), and needs more traffic to clean up the crozzly footers on tufas. The lower 15m is slopers galore with an unpleasant sloper crux, but the remaining 27m is radical featured flake and tufa climbing with tricky body position moves and feet, but separated by juggy stances. This is the 1st climb ive done with long sections of streno open hand pinches on slopey tufas.

Classic Sport 43m Chulilla Paul Thomson
Wed 24th Dec '14
El Oasis
7a Plan Z

Awesome. Super-duper sustained technical flowstone sloper crimping with no jugs and no "easier" section. Let your attention wander for a moment and you're out of here. Immaculate rock and climbing.

Classic Sport Chulilla Paul Thomson
Wed 24th Dec '14
7a Xevo

Sloper-tastic. For the first 1/2 techy slopers are the name of the game, but I stalled out on the taipan-esque megasloper crux before finally figuring it out. The top is easy (6b+?) but I didnt mind it.

Very Good Sport Chulilla Paul Thomson
Wed 24th Dec '14
6c+ El Viaje A Cuba

A crucial hold between the 1st and 2nd bolt has broken off, and the slabbing from the 1st to 3rd bolt is now 7a+ at least and HEINOUS. My onsight ended going to the 3rd bolt at the end of the NEW crux, after which I decided this was a rubbish warmup and bailed. FYI, its monster jugs from the 3rd bolt up.

Average Sport Chulilla Paul Thomson
Wed 24th Dec '14
El Algarrobo
7c *** Nivelúngalos

First 27! 3rd shot today, 4th shot total, but arguably my first proper red point attempt as after my onsight attempt yesterday my first shots today involved screwing around putting on draws that other climbers had removed. Came really close 2nd shot today (placing 5 of 10 draws) with a single fall, pull straight back on and go to the top. With perfectly refined beta, the 3rd shot was "mark and execute" and felt utterly rad! Super sustained, technical, thin, long, pumpy and COMMITTING. Stoked!

Mega Classic Sport 35m Chulilla Paul Thomson
Tue 23rd Dec '14
El Oasis
7a *** Top Of The Rock

Sustained and with a nails hard undercut bouldery start. Quality climbing throughout, with a particularly memorable double flake sequence near the end. Some choss.

Very Good Sport Chulilla Paul Thomson
Tue 23rd Dec '14
6c+ Olog-Hal

Not too bad for the grade, but a perfect warm-up for the area. Thin slab to a slightly overhanging section, and finishing up with a techy face. Pleasant moderate climbing.

Very Good Sport Chulilla Paul Thomson
Tue 23rd Dec '14
El Algarrobo
7c *** Nivelúngalos

1 lap at the end of the day, and so mind blowing I left my draws on it for another lap tomorrow. Sustained, getting harder to the top, with varied tufa climbing of different sizes, thin face climbing, and a climactic seam crack. Very intimidating bolting (10 bolts in total, 4 of them in the first 8m) mostly when the climbing is hardest and the whips most likely... but damn it is INVIGORATING.

Mega Classic Sport 35m Chulilla Paul Thomson
Mon 22nd Dec '14
El Oasis
7b+ Daños Colaterales

Sooo good, yet fully 1/3rd of this was wet. The bottom is balancy and technical low angle slab/face climbing and hides the first crux. The middle is easier but sustained thin face climbing (and was sopping wet), while the final third is slightly steep tufa climbing where the holds get thinner and slopier all the way to the anchor. My onsight was with 3 falls (one exploding off a wet crimp), and I will get back on this if it dries out, but for now the middle wet section is too unpredictable.

Classic Sport Chulilla Paul Thomson
Mon 22nd Dec '14
7a Cap I Cua R1

Rad rad rad. Technicality and body-position climbing for the connoisseur. Slopers and tufas with nothing horizontal or positive for the most part, yet with 3-dimensional thinking it all comes together in flowing poetry.

Classic Sport Chulilla Paul Thomson
Mon 22nd Dec '14
7a LGargola R2

Awesome climbing continuing on from R1 up a diagonal flake and tufa feature, getting progressively harder all the while... until you get to nails cruxy undercling moves right near the anchor, with rubbish feet. Easily 7a+ WITH the right sequence. I fell off on the last part of the crux then clean to the top. Could probably have ticked it 2nd shot, but didnt want to do the lower 25m of climbing to the crux all over again.

Very Good Sport Chulilla Paul Thomson
Mon 22nd Dec '14
6b LGárgola R1

Hard for the grade (or was that because half the climb was running with water?) Nice warmup of slopers, tufas, stemming and technical body-position orientated climbing. Kinda short, though.

Very Good Sport Chulilla Paul Thomson
Mon 22nd Dec '14
Sat 20th Dec '14 - Los Pinos
Sector Casa
7a Artisan

The "lots of beta" end of day flash. A great line of tricky slopers and big moves, with 2 bloody stupid bolts that rob it of being anything truly great. Genuinely pleasant steepness.

Very Good Sport Los Pinos Paul Thomson
Sat 20th Dec '14
7c Batacazo

THE line of the crag. 3 shots. The 3rd lap at the end of the day I made it to the final hard sequence near the top before pumping out for a 1-fall lap. With more refinement this WOULD go for sure, but no more time =( . Powerful, very steep, sustained and painful pocket and finger crack pulling which doesnt ever relent. Some touch moves to undercling pockets at full reach which you then need to stand up into. Hard crimping and tic-tac footers at the final crux.

Classic Sport Los Pinos Paul Thomson
Sat 20th Dec '14
6c+ Eso Picante

After blowing the onsight (as a warmup) pumped silly at the last bolt, I didnt take it seriously on my other 2 shots (didnt look at the crux sequence, tick anything, or wait longer than 15min between shots) and I paid for it. Couldnt afford to waste any more time on this epic sandbag beauty. Hard slopey technical start to gain a seam, then hard steep seam climbing to the crux move right through a bulge at the last bolt.

Classic Sport Los Pinos Paul Thomson
Sat 20th Dec '14
6b+ Trap Line

A tricky sequence at the start, then just okay face climbing. Not terrible, but utterly unmemorable.

Average Sport Los Pinos Paul Thomson
Sat 20th Dec '14
Fri 19th Dec '14 - Puig Campana
Aguja Encantada
6a+ Flamingo Dancer

With Neil. Clean.2nd P1 (access pitch) and o/s P2. Bailed from P3 when the rock quality went to hell and we realised we were running out of daylight for the epic abseil descent. P2 was "out there" crazy traversing over insane steepness on loose blocks and flakes with some exciting gear. Exciting in a masochistic kind of way.

Good Trad 120m Puig Campana Paul Thomson
Fri 19th Dec '14
6a+ El Diamante

With Neil. O/s pitches 1-2, 4-5 and 7. Clean 2nd P3 and P6. Linked several pitches into exciting 45m pitches. Quite sandbagged and frustrating route finding with guide descriptions and the new routes in the area, but some exciting old school trad multi nevertheless.

Very Good Trad 160m Puig Campana Paul Thomson
Fri 19th Dec '14
Thu 18th Dec '14 - Sella
Pared de Rosalia
7a El endemoniado

The hardest I've fought for any route this trip, and up there with one of my most titanic fights ever. Limestone grey slabs from the 80s are known to be terrible sandbags and getting on a 7a grey slab at a crag infamously known for its sandbags can only be a good idea, right. Utter bloody nails! Sustained fingernail edges, no feet, huge distances between "holds", and extremely wandery. I was shaking, whimpering, screaming and battling. I came down utterly destroyed, and totally elated.

Very Good Sport 32m Sella Paul Thomson
Thu 18th Dec '14
6c La estacion de la bruia

Almost fell off this epic grey slab sandbag. Quite pleasant 3-dimensional slabbing for the most part, but the final 10m is heinously thin and painful crimping on smear feet. Much harder than many 23 slabs ive done in Aus.

Very Good Sport 32m Sella Paul Thomson
Thu 18th Dec '14
6c Molly Highins

Bloody oath. Someone is taking the piss with this grade. This is nails even by the usual sandbagged limestone grey slab standard! Easy but runout to half height, then unerringly hard to the anchors. Lots of moves, bad feet, miniscule holds. Could easily be 7a+... even accounting for grey slab sandbags.

Very Good Sport Sella Paul Thomson
Thu 18th Dec '14
6b+ Tanit

Linked P1 and P2 into a 55m megapitch warmup. Weirdly, this grey slab isnt sandbagged for the grade, has no polish, and is quite pleasant climbing.

Very Good Sport Sella Paul Thomson
Thu 18th Dec '14
Wed 17th Dec '14 - Penon de Ifach
South Face
7a+ *** Mare Nostrum

With Neil. 6.5hrs car to car (including the epic descent). Wow, just wow. One of the best multis I've ever done. This thing is outrageously overhanging on every pitch, covering seemingly impossible terrain even on the easier pitches. Exposed and in a stunning position. I had a fall leading the crux 7a+ first pitch in the sun, and had a stupid foot slip (after the crux) near the end of the following 6c+ pitch on 2nd, but otherwise onsight odd pitches, clean 2nd evens.

Mega Classic Sport 240m Penon de Ifach Paul Thomson
Wed 17th Dec '14

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 1,000 ascents