More than 1,000 Ascents by Paul Thomson

 
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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 1,000 ascents

Grade Route Quality Style Crag Climber Date
Mon 24th Nov '14 - Contrafort de Rumbau
7b+ * Placa Ferdinand

2nd shot. Mostly 21-22ish face and pocket climbing, with a very thin and run-out boulder problem crux near the end. A bit chossy and with some stupid bolt placements. Looks aesthetically pleasing.

Very Good Sport 25m Contrafort de Rumbau Paul Thomson
Mon 24th Nov '14
7a+ Nunca doy un

3rd shot. Rad polished varied tufa climbing (my 2nd tufa ever!) With a hard facey finale when youre pumped. Hot in the spoogey sun. Onsight I sandbagged myself at the top trying to climb too direct. 2nd shot I hadnt actually sorted the top crux and came-a-cropper. 3rd shot it was style all the way for the send!

Classic Sport 20m Contrafort de Rumbau Paul Thomson
Mon 24th Nov '14
7a * ???

Awesome way to start the day. Rad pockets the whole way with a tricky techy crux near the top.

Classic Sport 25m Contrafort de Rumbau Paul Thomson
Mon 24th Nov '14
Sun 23rd Nov '14 - Tres Ponts
Main Wall Section 3
6b Anthrax

Neil moved some of my draws onto this while lowering off the climb next to it, so cant.claim the onsight. Some optimistic bolt positioning and still sandbagged, but not AS sandbagged as its neighbour. The top crux is quite fun.

Good Sport 40m Tres Ponts Paul Thomson
Sun 23rd Nov '14
6b * Santa Paciencia

Ouch. The whole climb is hard, but the crux sequence could easily be 22. Good climbing though, just mind those bags of sand. Tricky.

Very Good Sport 20m Tres Ponts Paul Thomson
Sun 23rd Nov '14
7a+ Arrampat a la Cova

Continuing up P2. Fell off and Struggled with the initial crux. Then battled pump to the top crux where I fell of some more. Great sustained steepness and a monster long combined pitch. The top crack and slopers (top crux)was wet, but the rest was bone dry.

Very Good Sport 48m Tres Ponts Paul Thomson
Sun 23rd Nov '14
7a Arrampat a la Cova

P1 flash. Awesome techy slab and a rad techy steep finale to the P1 anchor. Great pitch. Continued up P2 on link...

Very Good Sport 48m Tres Ponts Paul Thomson
Sun 23rd Nov '14
7a Pan de Puta

Fell off on flash on the top (easier) part off the tufa where it was wet. Stripped it so I could try something else. Short and sweet tufa-ing.

Very Good Sport 15m Tres Ponts Paul Thomson
Sun 23rd Nov '14
Main Wall Section 2
6b Pilier

P1 only. The bolting and rock is questionable, and the climbing is a bit humdrum. Okay, I suppose.

Good Sport 50m Tres Ponts Paul Thomson
Sun 23rd Nov '14
6b+ Joc de Mans

P1 only. Quite good, long, varied and technical the whole way. One of the best routes of the day.

Very Good Sport 35m Tres Ponts Paul Thomson
Sun 23rd Nov '14
Main Wall Section 1
6a ??

Classic European grey slab sandbag. Thin and technical and desperate for the grade.

Very Good Sport 18m Tres Ponts Paul Thomson
Sun 23rd Nov '14
Sat 22nd Nov '14 - Contrafort de Rumbau
6b+ Baja laboral

The opening sequence is bouldery radness (and harder than 6b+), but the rest was just okay climbing. Climbed in the near-dark without a headlamp.

Good Sport 20m Contrafort de Rumbau Paul Thomson
Sat 22nd Nov '14
6a+ Canto hondo

One okay move off the ledge, then just junk to the anchors. Seriously not worth it. First climb in Spain... hmmm...

Don't Bother Sport 20m Contrafort de Rumbau Paul Thomson
Sat 22nd Nov '14
Sun 9th Nov '14 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face Middle Cliffs Bentrovarto Wall
25 *** Vespasian's Wall

3 shots. The first was a throwaway (I ended up getting frustrated with the upper crux when I couldn't find a sustainable sequence and bailed off the climb). 2nd shot -with some AndyBeta for the crux- I almost stuck the last crimp before the finishing jugs on link. 3rd shot I fell off down low (just too tired after all the recent climbing) but went okay to the top after that. Probably 24 before you add the crux into the equation, and is generally great thin wall climbing.

Very Good Sport 58m, 20 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 9th Nov '14
23 ** Reigning Steel

Repeat.

Very Good Sport 17m, 7 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 9th Nov '14
Bell's Line of Road Pierces Pass Yesterday's Groove Area
24 *** Yesterday's Groove

With JengA. Awesome! P1 - 2nd Clean; P2 - Dog (fell off one move from the jugs right at the end of the pitch... One of the crux microcrimps was seeping, and after being on it for a while desperately clipping the bolt, I finally slimed off when I tried to move off it; P3 - 2nd Clean. P1 and P2 are stunning wide-open-book techno-stemming (probably 23 an 24 respectively) with the last 5m of P2 being desperate. P3's wild traverse is easy but gripping, and the crux finale is a dyno-happy pumpfest.

Very Good Trad 100m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 8th Nov '14
23 * Slaughter Falls

With JengA. P1 - 2nd Clean; P2 - Onsight; P3 - 2nd Clean; P4 - Onsight. Much better than I expected with P1 being forgettable but not too bad, and every pitch that followed being genuinely good climbing. The stemming on P2 is funky. The loooong traverse on P3 is wild and exciting. And the thin balancy slab climbing on P4 is bloody technical and tricky. The only thing that sucks is the gully bash to get out (rope up for it, or finish up P8 of Slackbladder). Totally worthwhile.

Very Good Sport 93m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 8th Nov '14
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff
23 ** Wedding Bell Blues

3 shots, all of them ending on the last move to the jug next to the anchor. After bolting a new route since 6am, by the time I got on this climb at 6pm I was wrecked. The Flash was the only chance I had to tick this but I messed it up. Each successive shot just got worse. Good training though. Quite punchy, and -in my opinion- the best of the sub-24 climbs here. Even the hard moves are quite pleasant.

Very Good Sport 12m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Thu 6th Nov '14
23 * Elastic Analysis

Repeat. This was one of my first 23's back in 2011. Even though I got pretty much every sequence wrong today, I still managed to hold on for the clean repeat. Quite an enjoyable short climb.

Very Good Sport 12m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Thu 6th Nov '14
Leura Sublime Point West Face Middle Cliffs Binary Cave
24 * Taxi Driver

EOD lap to see if it had gotten any better, but alas: I still hate the crux move of this route. The rest of it would be an awesome 22 but for a single move to turn the lip which is flat out unpleasant if you're tall. The start, the roof proper and the final headwall is good climbing though.

Very Good Sport 20m, 9 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 5th Nov '14
25 Digitalicious.

I made it to the first pocket okay, then got utterly shut down trying to get my right hand to the second (worse) pocket. I refused to commit to the throw to the small pocket and after playing around for a bit I came down. Interesting climbing to there.

Very Good Sport 20m, 12 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 5th Nov '14
Leura Sublime Point West Face Middle Cliffs Bentrovarto Wall
23 ** Reigning Steel

Repeat. Still good.

Very Good Sport 17m, 7 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 5th Nov '14
25 * Weakend Worrier

2 shots. On the first I fell off at the crux. Pulled back on and stuck it, then climbed to the top without actually working the crux moves. 2nd shot I realised I had no idea how I got through the crux, and totally messed it up. Then got hailed off the top. I think this could go in another shot or two, but the crux sequence ultimately comes down to a slippery, slopey ironstone punch which is a bit hit-&-miss. Mostly adventurous gr22 climbing, but with a 4m crux section that is quite involved.

Very Good Sport 30m, 12 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 5th Nov '14
26 ** The Road Not Taken

5th shot of the day to the top anchors (now I have to chop the lower ones). The easy-ish start (21?) leads to a stance before you blast into a brief 9m section of punchy hard climbing with funky weird moves (heel hooking and arete slapping) all the way. Really stoked with how this thing turned out. Not sure of the grade, because I worked the crux sequence to death over 3 hours non-stop, but when it finally went 5 shots later it went with only a moderate struggle. Might be 25.

Very Good Sport 18m, 8 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 5th Nov '14
Leura Sublime Point West Face Middle Cliffs Binary Cave
20 Rock Snob

Chalkess! Basically 80% of sand-scrambling on rubbish rock, with a single tricky thin crux sequence on pretty good rock. Maybe not QUITE as bad as everyone has said, but not far off.

Average Sport 12m, 4 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 5th Nov '14
Leura Sublime Point West Face Middle Cliffs Bentrovarto Wall
** The Road Not Taken (The Road Not Taken - PROJECT PAUL)

A solid 3 hours of work on the 7m crux section trying to put together a viable sequence. Finally unlocked it with a 24-hand-&-foot move sequence (no, I'm not joking) which might well be the hardest section of climbing I've ever done which I'm actually able to do and repeat. I can hardly believe that it goes, or that I'm able to do it. Can't wait to come back for the send, but it's gonna be a battle! 26?

Very Good Sport 18m, 8 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 2nd Nov '14
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Shakes and Flakes Wall
25 * The Racer's Edge

EOD lap in passing showers to check it out. Bouldery from the 1st to the 4th bolt (about 6m) then about 22 to the top via the original finish. Not really true arete climbing movement, but pretty funky nevertheless. I think the crux will be clipping the 3rd bolt on link. Bring a #4 and a #0.75 for the runout in the middle.

Very Good Sport 30m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 1st Nov '14
23 ** Let's Nail God

Immediately after rain, and during passing showers. Not too hard for a 23 slab, but sustained and awesomely varied moves. Bring a few cams for the start.

Very Good Sport 30m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 1st Nov '14
Mount Victoria Area Corroboree Walls Teenage Buttress
24 *** I Was a Teenager For the CIA

With Gene. A true chalkless onsight. P1 - 2nd clean; P2 - Onsight. Both pitches are stunningly beautiful. After the mank start, and a few steep moves, its all on when you reach the arete. The top half of P1 is intensely strenuous and desparately thin. P2 is far more technical, but more stance-friendly and pure-arete climbing. Its not over till you top out, though, thats for sure.

Mega Classic Sport 65m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 1st Nov '14
22 ** I Was a Teenage Werewolf

Pitch 2 only as a warm up. With Gene. Might be 22 if clean, but it was dirty enough that it felt rather challenging despite being low angle. Great balancy moves up exposed blankness. I used a #2 in the belay and #3, 0.75 and #1 on the climb.

Very Good Sport 55m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 1st Nov '14
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff
23 ** Creep Show

The easiest climb I did today, though after a long day of climbing I was cramping up on every move. Style aint in it, I just went for sheer desperate tenacity. Very straightforward, but pleasantly steep. Even the start on this one isn't too bad. Nice rock.

Very Good Sport 18m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 29th Oct '14
24 *** Vertical Dementia

What a stunning line. Also: stunningly nails. I think someone is taking the piss calling this 24. Onsight ended at the moves past the 3rd bolt. Bloody hard from start to finish, with no real rest stance. Beautiful rock the whole way (and the water-polished top section is amazing to climb, though terrifying when pumped senseless). By far the best line I've been on at the Brae. I think this will be hard to tick.

Classic Sport 18m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 29th Oct '14
23 ** The Never Believers

Went for the "lots of beta flash" with Rob shouting beta the whole way. Bloody hard start leads to very straightforward, but damned pumpy thugging. The final lip-turn to the anchors is awesome when done stylishly.

Very Good Sport 15m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 29th Oct '14
25 * Hilti's not Guilty

Height (or more specifically: too much of it) seems to be a factor on this one. Flash to the very obvious crux. Couldn't come up with any tricky way to do the crux move short of bouldering it out face-on (and good luck linking THAT into the rest of it at 25). Seems dangerously easy to cop-out onto holds on the 23's either side. Bailed from the crux.

Sport 16m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 29th Oct '14
24 ** Surprise Package

Hard start and very hard finish. Definitely 24 for the onsight. The moves into the groove, then out onto the prow and into the hard crux to the anchors make this one memorable. Stoked to keep it together at the end, as I got lost on the final moves and it was a battle for place and clip the anchors. At least 2 rad no-hands rests on this one.

Very Good Sport 17m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 29th Oct '14
23 ** Alien Signature

Pumpy! Almost came unstuck on the nails move past the roof, but kept it together to the top. A genuinely good climb from start to finish.

Very Good Sport 19m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 29th Oct '14
22 * Room With a View

Apparently I've been on this before? Warm-up. Felt kind of goey for a 22 for about 2 moves. Makes a good warm-up for everything else here. Crazy steep for the grade.

Very Good Sport 15m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 29th Oct '14
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Hot Flyer Wall
23 ** A Streaker Named Desire

Dammit! Tried to onsight this as a warm-up, but my crimp strength failed on the last hard move (2nd last bolt). Feels very straightforward, but quite sustained for the section of hard climbing. The rock was kind of damp today (but it hasn't rained recently?).

Very Good Sport 25m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 29th Oct '14
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grey Slab
20 * Nude Tuesday

Repeat. About right at 20 (not 21, as per the new guide). Though not very sustained, the two hard sequences are probably the most interesting moves on the Grey Slab.

Very Good Sport 20m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 29th Oct '14
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Pindari
24 *** Voyage for Two

Pitch 1 only at the end of the day. Fought tooth and nail but fell off at the last bolt. The top 10m is at least 30 degrees overhanging the whole way! Awesome steep and powerful face climbing around a crack. On topping out, I almost dislodged a 1/2 cubic metre of rock onto my belayer, jumped off before the rock could actually topple and took a 12m fall. I trundled the block later after topping out. Looking forward to getting back on this and doing the upper pitches as well.

Very Good Sport 55m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Tue 28th Oct '14
25 ** Vets Over Verdon

Quick exploratory lap on the crux between Genes shots on the top pitch of JoJ, then bailed once this joins JoJ higher up. Super intense, hard and tenuous arete climbing. I eventually figured out the moves, but putting it all together will be HARD. Needs a lot of cleaning, just like JoJ did.

Good Sport 20m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Tue 28th Oct '14
24 ** Jets Over Jordan

With Gene. Both pitches went first shot today after I scrubbed about 1kg of lichen and dirt of the crucial holds with a wire brush. Made for a brutal warm up, but was excellent climbing the whole way. The first 10m of P1 is still intense! Get on it while its clean!

Very Good Sport 50m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Tue 28th Oct '14
Bell's Line of Road Cosmic County Area The Freezer
26 ** Easy Fit

I enjoyed this way more than I thought I would. 2 laps in quick succession without working the moves (or sorting out the draws for optimal clipping... I was on a time limit on this one). The 2nd lap had very good linkage, but strategy for the draws is definitely crucial for me. Easy first half leads to an exciting and intense 2nd half with two distinct cruxes. Bouldery fun! I look forward to getting on this one again.

Very Good Sport 25m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 26th Oct '14
24 * Semantics

Flash placing draws (but I belayed Neil a few weeks ago, and his sequence for the hideous start definitely assisted me). It's a shame that the bottom 1/3rd consists of a hideous start and manky choss, as the crux middle 1/3rd is great thin steep crimping, and the easy top 1/3rd is thoroughly enjoyable. Really awesome water-polished grey rock... once you get past the utterly terrible start.

Very Good Sport 25m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 26th Oct '14
Bell's Line of Road Cosmic County Area The Freezer Shady Wall
16 * The Learning Curve

First repeat! Turned out better than expected, with some quality climbing at an easy grade. I enjoyed this, and it stays in the shade until after 3pm.

Very Good Sport 15m, 5 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 26th Oct '14
Bell's Line of Road Pierces Pass Lunch Ledge
24 *** Burn The Cross

Gave it hell and got good linkage, but didn't manage to find the chalkless crucial hold at the crux before I fell off. Still felt tough, but went easily enough second shot. The climbing is awesome, with the crux near the ground and some rad moves near the top, but the rock quality is quite average. I know you're psyched, Nathan, but calling this "mega-classic" is rather pretentious.

Very Good Unknown 30m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Fri 24th Oct '14
21 * My Kind of Bliss

With Neil. A great and totally worthwhile trad route. O/S P1 and P4; 2nd Clean P2 and P3. P1 is great corner-crack climbing on good rock, with an awesome finish (maybe gr19?). P3 is a long, sustained and varied pitch involving lots of technicality, to another spicy finale (gr21). P4 starts off okay until the first ledge-mantle, after which it's easy climbing but dangerously runout over the usual Blueys "exit pitch" rubbish (gr19).

Very Good Trad 100m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Fri 24th Oct '14
21 ** Old Skool

Great obscure trad route. 5 bolts and lots of spaced trad gear over this looooong arete make this one memorable. Hard start, and a very tricky pure-arete crux at mid-height. The rock quality and climbing get worse as you get higher, but it's all part of the adventure and doesn't detract from the experience.

Very Good Trad 45m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Fri 24th Oct '14
Bell's Line of Road Bell Supercrag Duck Wall - Upstream of Sunny Side
24 *** Pluck-a-Duck

In the full sun, after 6hrs of bolting, and straight after coming down from Daffy... I was asking for a spanking and I got it. After faffing about at the lower crux, I backjumped it and went home.

Classic Sport 15m, 10 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Thu 23rd Oct '14
22 ** Daffy

Repeat. Quick afternoon lap in the sun for some training. One of the two best 22s at Bell.

Very Good Sport 20m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Thu 23rd Oct '14
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Pindari
24 ** Jets Over Jordan

With Gene. COULD be a classic if it werent covered in dirt and lichen. The most sustained pure arete I've done in the Blueys. Lead both pitches and dogged both, struggling with one move on each (knowing the sequence and cleaning the holds mean it should go next time. P1 is 23 in the same way On Edge is 22. Hard first 10m, then sustained 21 to the belay. Bring #3 and/or #5 cam for the death runout. P2 has a hard, scary section during the traverse and immediately after, but is otherwise great fun.

Very Good Sport 50m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 22nd Oct '14
Katoomba Area Dogface Right Wall
22 * Gorgon

With JengA. Surprisingly good! Easier than Genghis Khan. P1 - O/S, a fun bit of clean crack climbing with a tricky start; P2/P3 - 2nd Clean, the 15m of shale is some of the worst rock I've climbed on, but the last 15m of this pitch is awesome stemming; P4 - O/S, exposed and scary, but safe-ish traversing under roof and around the prow. Amazingly airy; P5 - 2nd Clean, fun climbing up loose flakes; P6 - O/S, Thuggish with some dubious rock, but rad climbing to a single gr22 sequence. Awesome pitch

Very Good Trad 170m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 18th Oct '14
Katoomba Area Echo Point Echo Point Walls
22 ** Ice Cream

With Gene. P1 - Onsight; P2 - Flash (Gene climbed to the roof, then I climbed from the belay to the top-out on lead). Brilliant. Far better than Wally World if you can handle the much harder climbing and having to place some gear. The first pitch is a long one of stunning face climbing (with a VERY hard crux, I suspect its gr24, with another gr23 move higher up) on good rock, in an amazing position, and the gear placements only add to the experience. I'd recommend it to anyone.

Classic Mixed 65m, 16 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Fri 17th Oct '14
Bell's Line of Road Cosmic County Area The Freezer
23 ** archie.au

Utterly spanked. This is NOT a route to get on at 6:30pm after a long day of climbing. Felt very hard for 23, and I struggled to read the moves through the arch feature. After falling off at the arch, I pretty much went bolt to bolt to the top. Thin, goey and sustained, with the same stupid bolting that every other climb on this part of the The Freezer has. Could use more traffic to keep it clean (and it probably deserves it).

Very Good Sport 20m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 12th Oct '14
19 Double Standards

Climbed to get the draws back. Rotten start to an absolutely nails finish. I'd call the final sequence 22, and I'm 6ft 2in. After getting to the anchors I top-roped the top sequence to try different ways to reduce the difficulty, but nothing could make it any easier. This must be 23ish if you're under 6ft.

Average Sport 17m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 12th Oct '14
26 *** Lactictoc

2 more shots. 2nd shot was a new highpoint in less than optimum conditions: clean to the last hard move to exit the crux sequence, then I made the mistake of trying to clip the crux draw... I've definitely got to skip it for the tick. So much amazing pumpiness. The rubbish bolting hasn't gotten any better since last weekend =P

Classic Sport 28m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 12th Oct '14
22 ** Mad Cow Disease

Felt tricky at 22, but it's a pretty good route. Quite sustained climbing with some interesting thin moves. Without chalk on any of the holds, I was getting a bit pumped trying to figure out where to go. Definitely worth a lap, but not as good as hypoxic.

Very Good Sport 22m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 12th Oct '14
21 ** Bulls Head

Upclimbed and downclimbed on lead for a warm-up. Okay climbing in an adventurous way and an awesome position, but some rather dubious rock (though I didn't break anything). Down-climbing the ironstone dinner-plates was scary. Maybe 20?

Good Sport 35m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 12th Oct '14
18 * Soul Sister

Repeat. Mmmm.... Shade.

Very Good Sport 24m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 12th Oct '14
Bell's Line of Road Pierces Pass Walls Lookdown
25 ** I Have a Dream

Top roped the top half to warm up (belayed from the top), then another shot at the full lead after 2 hours sitting in the hanging belay. Done with 2 falls (one after the other) after sticking the 1st crux. Pulled back on without rest and linked the top 30m of exhilarating climbing, including the top crux. A mistake in the 1st crux burned too much energy correcting it and cost me the send. Next time I won't make the same mistake. Amazing position and hard climbing.

Classic Sport 50m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 5th Oct '14
Bell's Line of Road Cosmic County Area The Freezer
23 * Aroma Gunsmoke

Better than I expected, though the bolts are rubbish. Tricky start, and one crux crimp up high, but not too bad for the grade, and quite enjoyable. Considering how smashed I was after Lactictoc, this was a bit of a battle, but thin faces are definitely my comfort zone.

Very Good Sport 25m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 6th Oct '14
26 *** Lactictoc

2 shots. First was a bit of a disaster as my head wasn't in it. 2nd shot was pretty good linkage but the last move of the crux is going to be nails to link into the rest. For me to tick this I need to refine beta and efficiency as I was definitely getting pumped senseless. A great, varied, long route marred solely by some of the stupidest bolting on a classic route I've seen in a while.

Classic Sport 28m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 6th Oct '14
24 *** Meat Mallet

A great route, and quite sustained in the top half. Harder than any other 24 on this wall. Surprisingly little chalk on the top half of this (one of the crucial crimps didn't have any chalk or ticks on it, and I fell off on the onsight when I didn't see it and tried to do the moves without it). Quality climbing.

Very Good Sport 25m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 6th Oct '14
22 ** SWALK

Repeat. The heinous start is still hard, but the rest is pretty straightforward. Deliberately climbing it without using the rests makes for a VERY pumpy warm-up.

Very Good Sport 25m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 6th Oct '14
18 * Soul Sister

Repeat. One of the best 18s around, and hard for the grade. In the shade from early morning.

Very Good Sport 24m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 6th Oct '14
Lower Blue Mountains The Surgery
V5 ** Doctor

2nd shot (after sending Nurse). Might only be V4? A few more hand and feet moves, and a tricky compression move into the hardest part of Nurse make this one tricky. The cheer-squad might have helped my psyche.

Very Good Boulder Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 1st Oct '14
V3 ** The Nurse

First-shot today. Bizarrely, Ninja's beta worked perfectly for me, despite being a foot shorter than me? A burly little problem, a scary key heel-placement.

Very Good Boulder Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 1st Oct '14
V4 Jack-knife

Awesome. Quite a few shots to the tick as well. For me the key to unlock the crux was a skatey right-hand finger-lock/fist-jam combo (which bore almost all my weight), a monstrous high heel-hook, and a creative drop-knee/knee-bar (thanks Youngie!). Could be burlier than hell, but I went for stylish (and had a few liters of blood to spare on the jam).

Very Good Boulder Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 1st Oct '14
V3 * Nephrectomy

Took me lots of shots for the tick. Hard, probably V4. I didn't find the slope-match-cut-loose sequence too hard, but getting to the final hold (without smashing myself on the undercut edge) took me more effort than anything else all day. My final sequence is like 9 moves from the matched sloper jug to the match on the final jug, but I totally deserve style points. Stoked to finally tick it.

Very Good Boulder Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 1st Oct '14
V2 Oxycel

Okay for a warm-up. Probably slightly harder than Go Go Gadget, but not as committing and without the novelty value.

Good Boulder Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 1st Oct '14
V2 ** Go Go Gadget

Repeat. Best conditions I've ever had at The Surgery today.

Very Good Boulder Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 1st Oct '14
Lower Blue Mountains The Surgery
V3 The Hyperhidrosis Problem

Rope solo'd it a few times to make sure the ironstone shield wouldn't snap off, and figure out the crux. Awesome, super-thin pure slab climbing with smearing 2 non-existent footers on microcrimps providing the crux. All the hard moves are in the top half. Might only be V2.

Very Good Boulder 6m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Tue 30th Sep '14
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Blaxland Gully
20 ** Murmel Snooze

Onsight 5+ years ago, and another repeat ascent since then. Definately not 22, probably hard at 19 (as per the current guide). One of the best climbs at the grade I've done. A varied adventure.

Classic Sport 25m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Fri 1st Oct '10
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Lawsons Gully
23 ** Mal's Mega Route

Bloody great! The crux holds seem to be vanishing, and it's now a bloody punchy bit of steepness of miniscule sharp crimps. An enjoyable "adventure" where the runout start and initial slab are all part of the experience. I had to skip a bolt to score the flash, but it was worth it.

Classic Sport 30m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 28th Sep '14
25 * Hermaphrodite Hamster

Exploratory lap. Thin as, bro... And bloody sharp at that. The "crystal crimp" crux hold is malevolent. The main crux involves a lot of moves on tiny edges, for a mere 5m of upward climbing. Totally doable in cooler temps and with skin on my fingers. Worthwhile, and a touch different for a Blueys slab and one to come back to for sure.

Very Good Unknown 20m, 6 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 28th Sep '14
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Monument Ridge Gully
24 ** Ferro Pro

2 shots. First shot I struggled with the lower and upper cruxes (trying to find holds on this chalkless wall). 2nd shot I cruised to the upper crux in the full sweaty sun, then muffed a not-so-hard sequence rushing against the spooge onslaught. Very thin,sharp, and intense (except for the sit-down rest at half height). Grade feels stiff, but is on-par with the rest of the Mt York thin face-climbs for relative difficulty.

Very Good Sport 25m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 28th Sep '14
20 * Marooned

Repeat. Short, but with an intense crux. Quite enjoyable, despite its (lack of) length. Hard at the grade.

Very Good Sport 20m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 28th Sep '14
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Echo Gully
20 *** Atomic Punk

Repeat. Still bloody good, and still bloody hard at the grade. Very unique for the blueys with a hard crux. Slippery footers! This thing just oozes history.

Classic Trad 25m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 28th Sep '14
Katoomba Area Farside Outskirts
26 *** Deflatable Daisy

4 more shots. Got it down to 2 falls on my best effort, but as the sun came the finesse went to hell. Every time I felt like giving up, I'd make some new progress and hone a sequence, and now I feel confident that it's there for the taking. Strenuous, sustained, with 4 cruxes and totally varied climbing. Worth the effort. Hell, even the slab you ooze up at the start is funky.

Classic Sport 33m, 15 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 27th Sep '14
Katoomba Area Farside Main Wall
24 *** Brain Drain

Repeat. Almost a bloody retro-flash, surprised myself by getting it clean again. Mega! A brilliant, demanding and uniquely memorable route in every respect. Brains, pockets and slopers!

Classic Sport 20m, 11 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 27th Sep '14
Lower Blue Mountains The Surgery
V3 Roof Pocket

2nd shot today. Not quite as classy as the direct (V2) version, but the roof section is fun. Cool, roof thugging, with rad moves to get onto the "ledge". Ugly moves along the ledge lead to the same awesome Rocky-Davis finale.

Very Good Boulder Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 24th Sep '14
V2 * Rocky-Davis

First go today. I'd been on it a few years ago, but backed off from the committing (though easy) final move. Today it just felt great. A few big moves on great rock, with a committing finish.

Very Good Boulder Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 24th Sep '14
V4 ** Photocoagulator

Another old dog cleaned up. Took 4 more proper shots today to send it. My favourite problem at The Surgery, but that might just be cause it can be made less strenuous with some artistically tricky beta. Great moves.

Classic Boulder Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 24th Sep '14
V2 Necrosis

Finally. Still took like 4 shots, getting the footers just right. The "horn" at the top has broken off, so finish under the blank headwall.

Good Boulder Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 24th Sep '14
V2 ** Go Go Gadget

Repeat. Two laps to warm up. Great problem for Blue Mountains bouldering. Highball-ish, big moves on big holds.

Very Good Boulder Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 24th Sep '14
Medlow Bath Colliseum
The Conflagration - CLOSED PROJECT

Top Rope solo lap to make sure all the moves went before bolting this. Feels like a long adventure incorporating all styles of climbing. Will be in the 24/25 range, with a traddy boulder-problem crux down low, and a more powerful boulder up high. Totally worthwhile.

Very Good Mixed 45m, 9 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 17th Sep '14
Sat 13th Sep '14 - Craftys
22 *** Aquarius

Repeat. Really cool! This time none of the moves felt as hard or committing as they did last time, SOLELY because I knew what to expect and that I COULD do them without dying. The crux mantle even felt good. Very varied climbing with ledges to rest and get your head back in gear. Stopped for a one-hand hang and chalk-up mid-campus traverse with 15m or air below me. Exhilarating.

Classic DWS 25m Craftys Paul Thomson
Sat 13th Sep '14
21 *** Pician Passage

Repeat (3rd time on this on my 3rd trip here). Technical, insecure, and very strange climbing for a DWS route. A few sections on the traverse are exciting when you're tall. Brilliant rock!

Classic DWS Craftys Paul Thomson
Sat 13th Sep '14
Mon 8th Sep '14 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face Middle Cliffs Bentrovarto Wall
22 ** Milestone Arete

Repeat. Not clean this time. I broke off a footer just after sticking the crux. This climb is still "cleaning up", as every time I've been on it, or belayed anyone on it, various holds/footers of all sizes have broken off. Regardless, the climbing is good.

Very Good Sport 14m, 7 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 8th Sep '14
26 *** Sadomastication

2 shots. The first felt pretty good and I had a good success rate on the pocket-crux. The second shot was a hideous mess at the crux (though the rest was pretty solid) and I simply could not do the crux move. Unfortunately, it's just getting too damn hot on this wall in the afternoon sun now to pull hard moves.

Classic Sport 72m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 8th Sep '14
25 *** Kizashi

Repeat, placing the draws. Felt really good today (despite not remember some of the sequences), but I was still pretty pumped at the top. Unlike anything else in the Blueys.

Classic Sport 20m, 12 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 8th Sep '14
** The Road Not Taken (The Road Not Taken - PROJECT PAUL)

2 attempts, burning energy, psyche and skin. Some crazy crimpy compression moves. A lot harder than I was expecting (I was thinking 20/21, originally). Needs one more bolt added to the crux section (I was taking some pretty big falls from the middle of the crux). I need some time to dial the crux sequence, as it stands I couldn't link the last part of it into the rest of the sequence. Could be worthwhile.

Sport 18m, 8 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 8th Sep '14
23 ** Reigning Steel

Repeat. Warm-up. Good.

Very Good Sport 17m, 7 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 8th Sep '14
Sun 31st Aug '14 - Wolgan Valley
Coke Ovens Upper
22 *** Dr Freeze

With Neil. Despite some strange belay bolt placements and obscure piece of trad, this is as good as advertised with some of the best Blueys rock around. P1 - Onsight, hard 22 (bordering 23) with 3 varied cruxes over 40m and sustained climbing inbetween. A brilliant Pitch; P2 - 2nd Clean, hard moves off the belay, then a rad airy traverse with a final boulder problem to gain the belay. Probably 22; P3 - Onsight, hard move in the first 2 bolts, then pleasant to the top. Bang on at 20.

Classic Sport 82m Wolgan Valley Paul Thomson
Sun 31st Aug '14
Coke Ovens Cliff
20 ** The Wars of the Roses

With Neil. P1 - 2nd Clean, one of the most perfect sustained pure jam-cracks I've ever done in the Blueys, Lots of #1 - #3 BD cams; P2 - Onsight. Much trickier (and better) than it looks, climbing a weird dihedral feature. The loose blocks at the top are scary, but seem keyed-in; P3 - 2nd Clean, #4 cam useful. Airy, scary and committing under roof, but once you commit it'll go easily enough. A good onsight by Neil. Nice finish; P4 - Onsight, easy but enjoyable clean corner to the top.

Classic Trad 72m Wolgan Valley Paul Thomson
Sun 31st Aug '14
Old Baldy Lower Cliff
19 ** Woden

2nding Neil (who did this as a monster 58m pitch). Could be Classic... but due to lack of repeats its quite dirty at the moment. The middle-section is damn hard at the grade, but brilliant pure-trad style techy jamming. The run-out upper dirty off-width and shale-ledge topout detracts from perfection.

Very Good Trad 58m Wolgan Valley Paul Thomson
Sat 30th Aug '14
25 ** Top of the Pops

Wow! Dream send! Repeating this rarely climbed hard-trad testpiece of the era of Wolgan hardmen has blown my mind! 1st lead attempt, with pre-placed gear (8 bits of gear and 3 bolts) in part because the MISSING PITON on the middle (hardest) crux means the moves are done well above a single #4 wire in marginal rock to stop a 10m ground fall. I would be willing to do placing gear now, though! Boulder-problem lower crux; techy, strenuous trad-pro middle crux, and powerful fingery trad-pro top crux.

Classic Mixed 65m, 4 Wolgan Valley Paul Thomson
Sat 30th Aug '14
25 ** Top of the Pops

2 attempts on top rope, neither of them clean. After getting a look at the dubious mid-crux gear (from Smash Hits, next to it) I wasn't confident about trying to lead-it. The best I managed was with 1 fall at each of the 2 top cruxes. Sustained, strenuous, boulder-problem crack-climbing with powerful moves off finger-locks. 3 prominent and varied cruxes. Bang on at "old-school 25". This is NOT the "crazy sandbag" you might expect.

Classic Mixed 65m, 4 Wolgan Valley Paul Thomson
Sat 30th Aug '14
18 ** Inversion

Brilliant, sustained and with a hard crux (for a 19) finger-crack corner on near-perfect rock. Thoroughly enjoyable, and would be a trade route anywhere else. Bomb-proof gear including hexes and tonnes of wires.

Classic Trad 60m Wolgan Valley Paul Thomson
Sat 30th Aug '14
24 ** Smash Hits

With Neil Monteith. 3rd shot (including the flash of the 23M0 variant). First Recorded Free Ascent eliminating the pre-crux rest for very hard 24/soft 25. Might have been done before, but no information is online or in the guide to the contrary. An intense route to fully free as it only gets harder all the way to the top, with the final boulder problem coming well above the last bolt. An unnecessary runout to the anchors keeps the heart pumping.

Classic Mixed 30m, 5 Wolgan Valley Paul Thomson
Fri 29th Aug '14

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