More than 1,000 Ascents by Paul Thomson

 

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Grade Route Quality Style Crag Climber Date
26 *** Sadomastication Classic Sport 72m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 23rd Aug '14

3 more shots. Getting closer, small improvements and better linkages on sections, despite worse conditions than the last time I was on it. I've got the crux pocket-move down to a successful stick 1/3rd of the time, and have made some refinements on the upper big moves on much thinness. Getting there, just not there yet. Still having fun despite the rain.

24 ** The Young Violent Pony Very Good Sport 25m, 10 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 23rd Aug '14

2nd shot today, 3rd in total. The first shot today was a throwaway with epic flash pump and trying to remember the tricky footwork. The 2nd shot was still a bit of a battle, but I felt solid the whole way. Probably the least-climbed line on Bentrovato wall, but actually something of a unique gem with non-existent feet and tricky movement. The last move of Kizashi could be a heart-breaker if you haven't got it dialled.

23 ** Reigning Steel Very Good Sport 17m, 7 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 23rd Aug '14

Repeat. Made a great warm-up for the rest of the day.

25 *** Quickie Quim Fill Very Good Sport 12m Southern Tablelands Paul Thomson
Fri 22nd Aug '14

2 shots. The 2nd shot was in the bag until I suffered a silly footslip off a good footer. Pulled back on below where I fell off and made it to the top no worries. Frustrating, but good to know it's there for the taking next time. Short, but quite intense and with interesting moves the whole way. The rock quality and climbing degrades once you get into the seams, but the moves to GET there are stellar, technical weirdness. Too dark and WET for a 3rd shot today.

24 ** Suspended Animation Very Good Sport 10m Southern Tablelands Paul Thomson
Fri 22nd Aug '14

2nd shot. Went quite easily one the second go. The flash ended on the last move to the end. An action packed, intense 6m of climbing with 2 trickly sequences requiring some interesting footwork (and super-secret JengA beta). Better than I expected considering its contrivitae.

20 Thomas the Tank Good Sport 10m, 6 Southern Tablelands Paul Thomson
Fri 22nd Aug '14

Thought I'd done this before, maybe not? A one-sequence-wonder, though that particular sequence is quite enjoyable. Went direct and didn't find it too hard. Work those feet!

22 ** Mango Tango Very Good Sport 15m Southern Tablelands Paul Thomson
Fri 22nd Aug '14

Repeat. Broke a (non-crucial) hold off on the chossy section and fell off. Then just got pissed off. It's actually a pretty good climb, and genuinely enjoyable aside from the BRIEF mega-choss band.

18 ** Vox Populi Very Good Trad 15m Southern Tablelands Paul Thomson
Fri 22nd Aug '14

Repeat. A really nice mixed climb with some tricky moves at the grade. Good warm-up.

21 * Little Jug of Happiness Very Good Sport 65m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 16th Aug '14

Trad Ascent with Gene. 2nd P1 (Gene lead ALMOST the whole pitch on sketchy, sandy trad). Onsight P2 ENTIRELY on trad gear. 2nd P3 clean. P1 is pretty chossy, without any memorable moves. P2 is slightly better rock, but stunning exposure and moves, and an insane finale (particularly when you're 5m above your last piece of pro, hanging over the void). We got lost on P3, and I ended up 2nding it barefoot, chalkless, in the lampless dark and in the rain, for a proper epic exit and escape to the top.

26 ** Reigning Steel Extension Very Good Sport 27m, 13 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 16th Aug '14

3rd shot, and I had to work for it! Hmmm, hard to grade... Very hard 25, softish 26? Neil is right with "harder than Kizashi but easier than Sadomastication". Probably more sustained and strenuous than Sado, but -despite having 2 HARD moves- without Sado's particularly hard crux. Totally worthwhile and demanding thinness, with lots of funky sidepulls and very high feet.

23 ** Reigning Steel Very Good Sport 17m, 7 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 16th Aug '14

Repeat x 3 today. I'm finding this one more enjoyable the more I repeat it. Makes a really good warmup for the more money climbs on this wall.

24 ** Climbalot Very Good Sport 27m, 11 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 16th Aug '14

3rd shot. Onsight ended at the dyno (took me a bit to figure it out: stop trying to be tricky, and just face-on LAUNCH) then clean to the top. 2nd shot I muffed the dyno by completely missing it for no reason. 3rd shot it was all on to the top. Mostly a hardish 22 but for the pretty full-on dyno move. Consistently awesome climbing with interesting moves all the way to the top, 30m up. Probably deserves another star, neilio.

22 Cloudheat Good Sport 12m, 5 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 16th Aug '14

Short and pumpy. Some nice moves on interesting rock. Makes a good warmup.

13 B 3 Average Sport 10m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Fri 15th Aug '14

5 or 6 years ago, I think. 2 jugs on steepness then a mantle to the anchors. That's about it, from memory.

V4 ** Battle of the Shirts Very Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Wed 13th Aug '14

A really nice boulder problem. Took quite a few goes to put it all together. Exciting topout if you don't use the sidepull at the rail.

V5 *** Arms Race Very Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Wed 13th Aug '14

Never managed to stick the dyno, though I didn't find the opening moves easy either.

V4 *** Diplomatic Immunity Very Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Wed 13th Aug '14

Couldn't stick the last hard move to the slopers. After a few goes working the top section... I then couldn't stick the opening moves anymore as finger strength vanished rapidly. Tough, but intriguing.

V5 *** Sloper-Dan Milosevic Classic Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Wed 13th Aug '14

One more proper attempt Fell off on the usual last move. Got frustrated and left. No longer fun.

V4 * Snakebite Very Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Wed 13th Aug '14

Entertaining. The JengA solved the start move for us tallies, and it went easy from there. Grotty mantle finish.

V4 * Leap of Faith Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Wed 13th Aug '14

As soft as they come. The slab was pleasant though. Oozing up blankness.

V5 The Low Side Very Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Wed 13th Aug '14

After another 20-odd goes at that last move to find what works. Being tall definitely works against you on this one. Okay climbing. Heel hook!

V1 The Upside Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Wed 13th Aug '14

Alright climbing. Sandy slopers for slippery, scary sending.

V0 ** The DownSide Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Wed 13th Aug '14

Not too bad, Nice tall slab.

V0 * Sighed Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Wed 13th Aug '14

An okay warm-up. Knee bar!

25 *** Wipe Out Classic Sport 30m, 8 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 11th Aug '14

2 shots. What a rad climb. A true technical and sustained Blueys classic linking a prominent series of features. 2nd lap I botched a crucial hand sequence while rushing and fell off, then climbed to the the end of the flake and mantle without rest. I didn't enjoy the infamous runout finale, it felt unnecessary and was merely forcing the climb to continue beyond the logical conclusion (and 2 crucial crimps at the far left end of the traverse rail which I'm about 90% sure are chipped would agree).

24 *** La La Land Classic Sport 25m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 11th Aug '14

Stoked! The main headwall is sustained, pumpy thinness the whole way. Lots of small, techy, desperate moves on very average holds. A great route in iconic Blueys style. Not the purest onsight, as I'd climbed to the 3rd bolt (where the choss doddle ends) over 4 years ago, but never got anywhere on the main headwall before bailing.

23 ** Cutopia Very Good Sport 20m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 11th Aug '14

Quite enjoyable. Sustained thin slabbing in the middle 1/3rd and pleasant easier slabbing either side. Not too hard for a slab 23, about 1 full grade harder than Chasing Amy. Worthwhile.

22 * Spread 'em Baby Very Good Sport 25m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 11th Aug '14

First shot today, 2 shots almost 3 years ago. Cruised it, and thoroughly enjoyed it today. A great little route that avoids all the bad rock.

19 * Powerbra Rangers Classic Sport 23m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 11th Aug '14

Repeat. Cold today, but still rad and still hard. One of the best at the grade in the Blueys, even after all these laps.

26 ** Mephisto Very Good Sport 12m Nowra Paul Thomson
Thu 7th Aug '14

2 shots. It's there for the taking, but I need to refine my opening sequence (to the 2nd bolt) to make a link possible as I'm just burning too much energy doing it "my" way. Intensely bouldery for about 8m, then getting easier (though never "easy") to the anchors. From the 2nd bolt up is great super-thin face climbing.

24 *** Swallow The Moon Very Good Sport 13m Nowra Paul Thomson
Thu 7th Aug '14

2nd shot. I struggled at first with the one crux move on my onsight, but cruised and thoroughly enjoyed the rest. The 2nd lap was just fun. Mostly lots of thin but positive crimping, with 1 power-move crux at the 2nd-3rd bolt. Good!

22 * Pissed-Up Porker Stalker Very Good Sport 22m Nowra Paul Thomson
Thu 7th Aug '14

Spent a fair bit of time trying to come up with a creative way of doing the crux (and getting quite pumped), before finally settling on the throw. The moves immediately after it are the money on this climb. A bit dirty from lack-of-love, but genuinely enjoyable.

21 ** Word on a Wing Very Good Sport 22m Nowra Paul Thomson
Thu 7th Aug '14

Makes a good warm up, as it gets progressively harder/pumpier as it goes, and the crux is over quickly enough. The crux moves feel quite easy by standing up into the undercling. Quite enjoyable climbing.

24 * Mr McGuirkesqirter Very Good Sport 15m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 3rd Aug '14

Better than I expected. I didn't find the "one move wonder" everyone keeps talking about all that hard, I found the moves out left to turn the little rooflet much harder. A few tricky moves broken up by good stances. Nicely spaced bolts.

25 *** Ashes to Ashes Classic Sport 40m, 6 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 3rd Aug '14

Flashed all the route in fine style (including the moves at the top) EXCEPT for that damned dyno. I just cannot stick it with any degree of consistency. Other than the irritating stopper-dyno, the rest of the route is awesomely varied climbing on great rock. Not too sure whether I'll be back to try again.

24 ** Nothing Average Sport 30m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 3rd Aug '14

From the 2nd bolt up this is a classic "sustained, hard 22" Mt York face climb... But I have no bloody idea how to get from the 1st bolt to the 2nd bolt at grade 24. Sandy and sharp.

19 Areticide Good Sport 20m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 3rd Aug '14

I doubt you can climb this as an eliminate (avoiding the retrobolted crack) at grade 19. Even with the crack the start was rather hard, but the climbing gets better as it goes. An okay climb. Don't forget the bolt plates!

26 * Searching for the Light Extension Average Sport 30m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 2nd Aug '14

End of day exploratory lap. Might make a worthwhile extension (and a rad long pitch) except that the 3m of climbing that makes up the crux is unpleasant, chossy, gluey and sharper than hell. Really,t he hard moves only exist because of the worst rock on this wall. The rest of the upper section is awesome 24ish climbing.

23 ** Searching for the Light Classic Sport 15m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 2nd Aug '14

Repeat. A great sustained route that hasn't lost any of its charm in the 2 years since I last climbed it. One of the crag classics for sure.

22 *** Seamstress Classic Sport 22m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 2nd Aug '14

Repeat. A no-rests speed-climbing lap at the end of the day to get the draws back. Still thoroughly enjoyable.

26 ** Seamstress Direct Good Sport 20m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 2nd Aug '14

Gave it two working attempts. Can do like 50% of the moves in the opening 7m sustained boulder crux, but even those I can't do easily. Not a chance of any real linkage for me. Seems short, intense, bouldery, technical and hard. The top half is quite easy.

25 ** The Dreaming Void Very Good Sport 29m, 12 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 2nd Aug '14

Finally got around to ticking this. First go today, placing the draws. 5th shot total over about 1.5 years or so. Felt thoroughly enjoyable today, and was simply great climbing from start to finish.

24 * Rhubarb Crumble Very Good Sport 15m, 7 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 2nd Aug '14

2nd shot. Should have been an o/s but the crucial crux pocket was full of spider webs, and I didn't even see it amongst the rock. Probably soft at the grade. Has cleaned up okay and makes a worthwhile climb.

21 * Jigger Jeff (to the ledge) Very Good Sport 14m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 2nd Aug '14

Repeat. Warm-up. Not a bad little slab, has cleaned up nicely. A touch soft, maybe?

V5 The Low Side Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Wed 30th Jul '14

I can't do the last move to the jug, and have no idea how to do it. All the rest of the moves are dialled and seem easy.

V5 *** Armistice Day Very Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Wed 30th Jul '14

Solved the moves with Gene to gain the corner, now need to work out the moves up the corner to the roof. Some daylight and different shoes might be useful, I think.

V5 *** Sloper-Dan Milosevic Classic Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Wed 30th Jul '14

Maybe 10 more shots? Every single time, left hand on crimp, right hand on intermediate, foot on the point, but I just can't do the rock-over to the jug on link. Today this stopped being fun and just put me in a pissed-off mood for this whole session.

V1 Out On A Lim Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Wed 30th Jul '14

3rd shot today... I think that makes 5 shots total for the send? How pathetic. Did I mention I hate mantles? No? I HATE mantles!

V2 *** Opposition In Exile Very Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Wed 30th Jul '14

Fun little balancy slab problem.

V3 Johnny Dawes' Problem Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Wed 30th Jul '14

Not too bad. My height makes the start easy, and as usual the mantle (ANY mantle, for that matter) was terrifying.

V2 * Diplomatic Solution Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Wed 30th Jul '14

Took me a few goes to get off the ground, then fun and easy to the top.

25 ** The Dreaming Void Very Good Sport 29m, 12 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 27th Jul '14

2 shots. Its getting almost comical that I haven't managed to tick this yet, since it fits my style perfectly, and doesn't actually feel hard to me. The first-attempt was a disgusting mess and might well constitute crimes against rock-climbing (I felt terrible, pumped out below the ledge, and bumbled around like an idiot). The 2nd shot was a fun CRUISE until I fell victim to someone elses tick-mark at 2/3rds height on a pocket meant for fingers smaller than mine (which I've never used before).

24 * Troc de l’Ile Very Good Sport 15m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 27th Jul '14

Repeat. Made a good warm-up, and is soft if you're tall. I did the contrived "direct finish" loading up unto sloper-underclings rather than bailing onto the holds (and now new route) out right to make it a bit more challenging.

25 * Screaming Tribesman Good Aid 280m, 1 Southern Tablelands Paul Thomson
Sat 26th Jul '14

With JengA. Top 4 pitches only as part of the Iron Curtain-Screaming Tribesman linkup. If it weren't for the brilliant all-trad P6, this climb would be utter rubbish. P6 - 2nd Clean; P7 - Fell off getting from the cam to the 2nd bolt, then dogged my way through the pitch; P8 - 2nd Clean; P9 - O/S. The 25 pitch on this would be dangerous to tackle at 22 A1 considering what is required, and its a chossy mess of chipped climbing regardless. P8 could be good but is very dirty and runout.

22 *** Iron Curtain Classic Trad 130m Southern Tablelands Paul Thomson
Sat 26th Jul '14

With JengA. Sustained, techy, varied and beautiful friction slabbing almost the whole way. Not easy despite being "easiest" in the Gorge. P1 - O/S; P2 - 2nd Clean; P3 & P4 (combined for a rad 50m pitch) - O/S. Beautiful!

26 *** Siblings Of The Sun Mega Classic Mixed 240m, 61 Southern Tablelands Paul Thomson
Fri 25th Jul '14

With JengA. About 9 hours car to car. Every pitch on this is worthwhile, and every pitch is a sustained challenge at the grade. Led the even # pitches. Unfortunately broke footers on P1 and P4 and fell while cruising. Took an upside-down whipper off the last move of the 24 pitch (just missing the onsight). Did all the moves on 2nd (with quite a few rests) but got spanked by the 26 pitch. A stunning, intimidating, all-day epic. Completely worthwhile and inspiring.

V3 * Lay Down Your Arms Very Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Wed 23rd Jul '14

Late-night lap in my approach shoes. Was quite good, but very soft at V3. It was entertaining to watch a chain of us moving up this thing after the night sessions.

V5 *** Sloper-Dan Milosevic Classic Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Wed 23rd Jul '14

Lots and lots of shots until my hands were destroyed. Not optimum conditions, but that certainly wasn't what was letting me down. Came close a few times (one time even fell off the finishing jug due to a lack of commitment), but the climb is as dialled as it can be... Now I just need to keep it together for a send.

V4 ** Toe to Toe Very Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Wed 23rd Jul '14

Not particularly hard, but heaps of fun. I found the top-out kind of scary, and the mossy/dirty finishing holds almost did my head in. Or maybe I'm just soft.

V3 * Revelations Very Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Wed 23rd Jul '14

Repeat. Climbed the crack ALMOST exclusively... until the off-width top-out when I got scared and used the face holds. Some painful jams, but a cool crack feature. I'd suggest not falling.

V4 * The Bilge Very Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Wed 23rd Jul '14

Not too bad and not too hard. Still took me a few goes, though. The topout is fun.

V3 ** Underground Movement Very Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Wed 23rd Jul '14

Not too bad for a warm-up. Short and sweet. I liked the dyno move.

16 * Xerxes Good Sport 30m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 20th Jul '14

Seconding Emily. Not too bad. Maybe a bit hard at the grade, but then, this is "The County". 6 bolts and a few bits of gear. Not as dirty as I was expecting. We walked back down via the 39 Steps (fixed ladder) in a few minutes.

25 *** Aesthetic Images Mega Classic Sport 35m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 20th Jul '14

Wow! Might be one of the best routes I've ever been on! About 1.5 grades harder than Toyland Direct. Absolutely stunning! Demanding and unforgiving, technical, pumpy, thin-as face climbing that doesn't let up until the anchors. 2 shots. On my 2nd I had 1 fall at the 3rd last bolt and "belaying difficultties" led me to grab the last draw to clip before continuing on. I really hope I can tick this next time, because -for me- this would be as memorable a climb to send as any I've done.

22 * Incandescence Classic Trad 25m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 20th Jul '14

Awesome! With a proper clean (esp at the top), some de-vegetating and trundling loose blocks, this would be a trad classic. Strenuous and scary, but with gear-aplenty if you can hang around to place it. Ridiculously steep! Not a true tick because after doing all the hard climbing and clearing the roof my onsight ended trying to stand up in the final 3m corner, which was all moss and loose rock (since the fires). After minutes of pulling debris onto my belayer, I finally gave up and jumped off.

21 Battleships Good Trad 35m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 20th Jul '14

Climbs a lot like the upper section of Junction City (after the crux first 4 bolts), but is limited by the contrivitae of avoiding Interstate 31 and Junction City on either side (and not clipping the bolts on JC, for a proper trad ascent of this line), and being quite dirty due to lack of traffic. I wandered around to find the odd bit of gear and climb the line of least resistance (I hope that doesn't make me off-route?). Runout enough to be ALMOST dangerous. I placed 7 bits of gear in 30m

26 *** Supercallousfragileextradosage Very Good Sport 25m, 13 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 19th Jul '14

Quick exploratory lap, done with 1 fall and 1 rest at the 2 crux draws. The rest clean. Quite good, not crazy hard and very straightforward, but thoroughly enjoyable. I think I could do this in a shot or two if I skip clipping the 2 crux draws.

23 *** Alliterating Austrian Ostrich Mega Classic Sport 30m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 19th Jul '14

2nd shot today. Despite the epic sandbag at "23", this IS STILL my all-time favourite Shipley route. Cruised it first go today placing draws (years after my lasy attempt)... EXCEPT for going into the lower crux completely wrong, trying to battle on and eventually falling off. Cruised it 2nd shot, and climbed with dreamy eyes the whole way. Perfect. Long, sustained, varied, no true crux, slab, face, steep, roof... PERFECT.

24 *** Language of Desire Very Good Sport 35m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 19th Jul '14

Pretty cool, quite straightforward with no real "stopper" moves (though definately a few distinctly harder moves), but quite a few tricky moves throughout. I like tgmhe runouts on the top half to keep it spicy... for a shipley route.

22 Do Androids Like Duckos Average Sport 12m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 19th Jul '14

Warm-up. Contrived, not too pleasant, short and probably quite soft. Made an okay warm-up, I suppose.

25 ** I Have a Dream Classic Sport 45m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 14th Jul '14

Done with 1 fall (at the bouldery crux) and 2 rests. RUNOUT as all hell through proper hard moves (even relative to a gr25 climb), with very good climbing, and stunning position. A small rack of cams could help to mitigate the runouts (there are some good placements). Stoked to have gotten on this, and I believe it will go with another shot. 5 years ago I Had a Dream to be at a point where I could climb and tick I Have a Dream... I'm there now. I'll be back!

24 ** Sweet Romancer Good Sport 40m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 14th Jul '14

The guide has it right: "was great until all the holds fell off". Like a consistantly harder version of the gr21 top pitch of Mirrorball, but on generally worse rock. I fell at the crux -which is only the crux cause everything has broken off- and again further up when I ripped off a hold. The bolting is surprisingly spaced, but safe. Keeps you fighting all the way to the top (40m up from your belayer). A real shame about the rock quality.

21 * A Date with Dentistry Average Sport 20m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 14th Jul '14

The climbing okay, but the rock and the bolting range from average to terrible. 7m to the first bolt with tricky moves on bad rock is just stupid, and another runout further up is the same but on a diagonal. Either the bolter was trying to save money, or was trying to contive the line to climb a very specific way... and failing miserably.

23 *** Weak as I am Classic Sport 22m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Fri 11th Jul '14

Wow, its been 2 years since I last tried this (in the dark). Danced up it today and enjoyed every single move. Tonnes of varied and interesting sequences between great stances. Clipping the anchors could be exciting if you're not ready for it. Some of the bolt positioning is very strange.

25 ** Burning Bridges Very Good Sport 40m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Fri 11th Jul '14

Would be stellar, except that whoever has rebolted the mid-height crux bolt has moved it 30cm lower, so that even with a short draw it hangs over the first hold of the mid-height crux! Onsight ended at this point (though I wouldn't have ticked it first-shot anyway). Really nice climbing to the mid-crux, a few bouldery moves then more nice climbing to the final tricky crux. Took an exciting whipper off the top throw when I skipped the final bolt. Might come back to this...

24 ** Form One Lane Very Good Sport 30m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Fri 11th Jul '14

Cruised up it 2nd shot... would make a good warm-up with the beta sorted. 1 fall at the 2nd bolt on the onsight, the rest clean. A bit strenuous past the first 2 bolts, then quite enjoyable and thin to the top with tricky moves all the way.

22 ** Scarred For Life Very Good Unknown 25m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Fri 11th Jul '14

Fingers starting to warm-up, but still damn cold winter conditions with the wind. Better than I expected, and quite sustained the whole way. Some average rock, but generally interesting climbing all the way to the anchors.

17 * Hypothermia Average Sport 25m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Fri 11th Jul '14

Flash placing the draws. Appropriately named considering the conditions today: sub-zero with an arctic wind and numb (later painful) fingers. Average climbing on okay rock. Not particularly good, even at the grade.

V5 *** Sloper-Dan Milosevic Classic Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Thu 10th Jul '14

Linked and completely dialed to the final move to the jugs (or the flat sloper out right), but haven't put together the top (final) hard move yet. Great climbing, and tough for one who hates slopers. I will be back for the send. This is my boulder-problem goal for the year.

V5 *** The Pincer Movement Classic Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Thu 10th Jul '14

Took a few goes to put together the start, then a few more to commit to the upper moves on my own with the 1 mat. After ticking it, I came down and did it again just to make sure. A great feature with some rad movement. Probably soft, even climbing it like an eliminate.

V7 * Swiss Cheese Mind Very Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Thu 10th Jul '14

Spent quite a bit of time working this, but can't quite put it together.

V3 Coffee Anann Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Thu 10th Jul '14

Repeat. Okay, but over quickly.

V3 ** Mission Impossible Very Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Thu 10th Jul '14

Repeat. Being tall definately helps with the top-out, but it was still scary today on my own with the 1 mat.

V1 ** Eastern Bloc Arete Very Good Boulder The Balkans Paul Thomson
Thu 10th Jul '14

Repeat. Quite enjoyable, but probably soft.

25 Aurora Good Trad 240m Southern Tablelands Paul Thomson
Sun 6th Jul '14

With Neil. COULD be "great", but in it's current state it's barely "good". The bottom 4 pitches range from crap to average, and the top 4 have the potential to be classic, but are still far too dirty, loose and untraffic'd to realise their amazing POTENTIAL. P1 - o/s; P2 - 2nd Clean; P3 - o/s; P4 - 2nd Clean. P5 - Dog - took a monster 10m whipper when I couldn't clip a bolt near the top, and just kept climbing till I fell off the dirty holds; P6 - 2nd Unclean; P7 - Dog/Aid-fest; P8 - 2nd Clean.

22 *** Strangeness and Charm Classic Trad 160m Southern Tablelands Paul Thomson
Sat 5th Jul '14

With Cam from QLD. An ALMOST-bold classic with an old-school mentality: mostly trad wtih a few spaced bolts, a tad wandery, run-out but not TOO run out. Great! O/S Pitches 1, 3 and 5; 2nd Clean 2 and 4. Stoked with the pitches I got to lead. The traverse on P2 isn't as scary as it looks. P3 is the crux for sure, and comprises a nice sustained awkward crack-outing. P5 doesn't seem to see much traffic and was dirty and a bit obscure, but was actually great climbing.

24 ** Communal Spoon Very Good Sport 15m The Woolwash Paul Thomson
Sun 29th Jun '14

3rd shot today. It was all there for the taking on the 2nd shot when I arrived at (literally) the last move feeling fresh as a daisy, but I threw it all away when I forgot how to do it! 3rd shot went easily. Quite a fun and obvious line with lots of big holds, and a few tricky/sequence moves. Meat-wrap/rock-over for the win!

26 *** Sadomastication (Sadomastication P1) Very Good Sport 72m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 28th Jun '14

3 shots, making good improvements each time. Might go with a few more laps. Sustained climbing where every hold is a small positive (sharp) crimp, with no real rest from the 3rd bolt to the top. The crux in the middle is a bit hit-and-miss for me, but the big (pumpy) moves at the top are not so bad because of my height. A GREAT route. More strenuous than Kizashi, but very straightforward.

24 *** Guillotine (Guillotine P2) Very Good Sport 48m, 23 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 28th Jun '14

Decided to link P1 into P2 and keep going as a warm-up. On the onsight of P2, fell off 1 move from the jug flake to the anchors, having skipped the last bolt, pumped senceless and frozen to the bone. It was an exciting fall! P2 is the money on this climb, getting progressively harder all the way to the end, yet never super "cruxy". Sustained pumpy funkiness.

22 *** Guillotine (Guillotine P1) Very Good Sport 48m, 23 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 28th Jun '14

Repeat. Pitch 1 as a warm-up in arctic conditions. The crux (first 3 bolrs) is desperately unpleasant off the deck, but it's just great climbing after that at about grade 20.

6c+ * KiK Good Trad 450m Oeschinensee Paul Thomson
Thu 19th Jun '14

Pitch 8 only (Ro managed P9 as well before we got smashed with torrential hail). What an epic final day. The gondola wasnt operating so we hiked for 2 hours to get to the climb, it took 2 more hours to find the climb, at which point we decided to only do the upper 200m. I lead P8 (6c+) which is 45m, sustained, dangerously runout, on bad rock. Fell off at the last bolt when I didnt find the crucial CHIPPED pocket. Ro went up P9 while I got slaughtered by hail ina hanging belay, then we bailed.

6c Taxi Good Sport 30m Elsigen Paul Thomson
Wed 18th Jun '14

Down came the rain and washed rhe climbers out... again. I was happy to bail fom tgis, as it was becoming a mini-epic. I climbed too high and into the lower crux of the 7c+, which I then reversed with much effort to get back on route. Eventually I put together the deserately balancy crux of the 6c, and then the rain returned...

6c+ Sisyphus Crap Sport 30m Elsigen Paul Thomson
Wed 18th Jun '14

Holy crap, this isnt merely the worst climb ive ever done in Europe, its a contender for one of the worst routes ive EVER done. Not even in the Blueys would this mank get bolted. Every single hold can be removed, shown to your belayer and re-inserted... well, except for the holds that are created entirely from glue with a complete absense of rock. I actuallly started up the 7a next to it until I got a look at its chosspile crux, at which point I traversed into this to try a different chosspile.

7b ** Korona Classic Sport 20m Elsigen Paul Thomson
Wed 18th Jun '14

Great climbing on stunning blue limestone, but the just wasnt going to go in the rain with the crux sloper wet. Onsighted to the top crux before the anchor, and slipped off the crucial sloper. Tried to put together a bouldery snatchy sequence avoiding thw sloper using tiny crimp edgea, but it just wasnt happening. A shame, really.

7a * Virus Very Good Sport 20m Elsigen Paul Thomson
Wed 18th Jun '14

Haha, just like a classic Blue Mountains sports climb back home. Boulder problem off the ground with no feet to a small positive crimp rail, then some powerful moves leading to a pumper finish on jugs. Somewhat unlike a limestone route, but its good to find some familiarity over here. Fun, but not classic.

6c+ * Benediktus L2 Very Good Sport 18m Elsigen Paul Thomson
Wed 18th Jun '14

Impossibly balancy and precarious. Absolutely nails off the belay, then slowly getting somewhat easier. Took me quite a few goes to get the opening sequence, then onsight to the top. Made harder by the arrival of rain.

6c * Benediktus L1 Very Good Sport 15m Elsigen Paul Thomson
Wed 18th Jun '14

Boulder problem fridge-hugging from the 1st to the 3rd bolt, then much easier climbing. I got the opening sequence 3rd shot. Short and sweet limestone bouldering.

6b *** Mobile Classic Sport 30m Elsigen Paul Thomson
Wed 18th Jun '14

The guide calls this classic at the grade, and it bloody well is. Hard for the grade, but long and with an amazing amount of variety and complexity.

7b+ *** Deep Blue Sea Trad 320m The Eiger Paul Thomson
Tue 17th Jun '14

We put in a lot of effort to get on this, but in the end the elements defeated us. Went up the Rostock via ferrata to gain the west ridge and avoid all the snow and ice on the west face. We could see the climb and the abseil in, but couldnt get to either without ice axes and crampons due to the abnormally late snow season: there was just too much ice on the sketchy ridge to the abseil. A crushing dissappointment of my oldest climbing dream, but I WILL be back for another attempt.

7a Vegi-Trip Very Good Sport 30m Lehn Paul Thomson
Mon 16th Jun '14

Feeling tired now. The bottom half corner crack is easy and pleasant, but after that it becomes bouldery steepness past 2 bolts to the ledge. Trying to clip the anchors off hideous slopers is a bit cruel. I pinged off at the end of the crux. Not knowing the good holds from the bad in the chalky mix, i used them all in a 50 move sequence until I had nothing left. Worth a lap.

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