More than 1,000 Ascents by Paul Thomson

 
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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 1,000 ascents

Grade Route Quality Style Crag Climber Date
Sat 22nd Aug '15 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff
24 ** Rain Maker

2nd shot today at End of Day. Steep and pumpy, with big moves between big (slopey) holds. No pronounced crux, just fun steepness on great rock. I linked this into the top slab of Shark Pool for a thin, and rather run-out exiting finale.

Very Good Sport 18m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 22nd Aug '15
Sat 22nd Aug '15 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall
25 *** Vespasian's Wall

2nd shot. First was a retro flash attempt, and I fell off with my fingers on the end-of-crux finger jug. With the beta refined, the 2nd shot felt tough but solid, and I'm happy to finally get around to ticking this obscure nemesis. Super-sustained techy face climbing leads to a substantially harder shut-down crux. I solved the crux with some tricky footwork that made it balancy, but not powerful. The challenge to working this route is the knowledge that you have to battle the bottom 18m again

Very Good Sport 58m, 20 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 22nd Aug '15
24 *** Guillotine

Both pitches as a giant single pitch (with an 80m rope) as a warmup... I was definitely warm by the end of it! If we chopped down the tree-start, and we could find some way to remove the halfway ledge, this might be the best 24 in the Blueys. The 1st pitch is okay, but the sustained and increasingly difficult 2nd pitch is consistantly technical and engaging, and demands that you dig deep to fight through the crux just below the anchors (especially as a warmup). Not QUITE classic b/c ledge.

Very Good Sport 48m, 23 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 22nd Aug '15
Fri 21st Aug '15 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath Pole 28
25 ** Damned if I Do

Probably as good as Heat Wave for quality, though vastly different. Initially extremely steep and pumpy, tricky moves to gain the arete and move up it lead to a consistently interesting techy headwall. My onsight ended with the help of dozens of red herring tick marks (thanks for ticking the holds NOT to use), and I didn't allow enough rest between my next shots to score the tick. Just too tired. I quite enjoyed this though... an interesting techy boulder problem.

Very Good Sport 18m, 9 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Fri 21st Aug '15
23 *** Heat Wave

Consistently interesting climbing on generally good rock. Probably a 2-star route (considering the crag). The moves past the lip to gain the slab, and the slab itself are memorable when following the acquired pump of the lower section. Worth a lap.

Very Good Sport 18m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Fri 21st Aug '15
Fri 21st Aug '15 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath Pole 28 Lower Cliff
26 *** Impetus

Stoked. After my usual 1 hour warmup at home, I managed to tick this 1st shot of the day. I was extremely nervous on the Send, not just because of the fall potential, but because I could easily fall off 90% of this, even though the crux sequence starts in the first 3m. Super sustained, thin, steep, committing and excitingly stressful. Great rock and position.

Classic Sport 30m, 7 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Fri 21st Aug '15
Wed 19th Aug '15 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath Pole 28 Lower Cliff
*** Impetus (The Impetus Project - PROJECT PAUL)

3 laps Top Rope Solo today. Best lap was the second, which was done with a single fall at the crux. Pulled back on below the crux and went to the top. The roof is the easy part, turning the lip is a long crux sequence with exciting airtime potential before you reach a "reasonable" hold. After that it's super-sustained thinness all the way to the top. This one will be hard, but exciting, and the line and climbing are awesome.

Classic Sport 30m, 7 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 19th Aug '15
Tue 18th Aug '15 - Scarface
Scarface Buttress
22 *** Stop the Bolts!

A full lap from the ground to exit the crack. Finally led P1 (Onsight) - I'd forgotten how terrifyingly scary the sandpit rock for the first 6m is... great corner crack and traverse after that. P2 - Clean 2nd (Repeat). P3 & P4 (Linked) - Clean (Repeat). P5 - Red Point (technically, since I'd seconded Neil on this over 2 years ago, can't claim an Onsight), but in the dark, without stripping down unnecessary gear, and without ticking or cleaning the chipped topout hold and slopers. Fun. Short.

Classic Mixed 88m, 2 Scarface Paul Thomson
Tue 18th Aug '15
21 Bolts are Back!

Sandy junk. I didn't bring any trad gear and I'm bloody glad I didn't blow the top moves. A few easy moves lead to a sandpit and choss, then some hard moves lead to sand and vegetation. The crux movement up a flake feature was cool... but utterly ruined by the terrible rock quality.

Don't Bother Mixed 15m, 5 Scarface Paul Thomson
Tue 18th Aug '15
22 *** Stop the Bolts!

Repeat. P2 (the money pitch) only. Just a leading lap on this great pitch to kill time while Stephen worked Gravity. Perhaps not as epic as I remember it, but still great trad-ish climbing on bomber rock, in an awesome location. Great protection and moves. Save a #3 if you want to skip the 1 bolt on this pitch for an all-trad ascent.

Classic Mixed 88m, 2 Scarface Paul Thomson
Tue 18th Aug '15
20 * Cuckoo Dove Crack

Repeat. Sure, the crux is burly for the grade (and probably intimidating for most trad climbers) but it's over quickly, gear is plentiful and easy to place, and the climb is quite stance-friendly. Enjoyable thin-crack pumping. Now if only it was 40m long!

Very Good Trad 15m Scarface Paul Thomson
Tue 18th Aug '15
25 ** Gravity

2nd shot. Onsight ended 30cm from the big horizontal ledge as I continued to move my right hand up the seam and the seam ran out! 2nd shot was smooth sailing. Hard to grade, as it climbs like a sustained V3 boulder problem for the first half, then quite easy second half. Funky moves up pockets, left hand slapping up a fused flake feature, while right works an incipient seam. Marred by dubious rock, and bolts (all of which are 1 move above the obvious clipping stance). Bring loooong draws!

Very Good Mixed 15m, 3 Scarface Paul Thomson
Tue 18th Aug '15
Fri 14th Aug '15 - Blue Mountains
Bell's Line of Road Bell Supercrag Departures (Upper)
23 ** Destined for Grayness

Really enjoyable, and hard work as an End of Day climb on the walk out from the crag. Packs a lot of moves, and a lot of climbing into a bloody short route. I also found the "ledge" exposure and the fact you follow a grey streak very inspiring (hence: motivating). Short, Punchy, sustained steep climbing on good quality rock.

Very Good Sport 12m, 5 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Fri 14th Aug '15
Fri 14th Aug '15 - Blue Mountains
Bell's Line of Road Bell Supercrag Sunnyside
23 ** Searching for the Light

Repeat. Yet another lap. Easily the best 23 at Bell. Unfortunately, some of the new "squeeze-job" routes in the area have devalued the quality of this wall, by turning it into a maze of bolts, with routes criss-crossing and becoming contrived rubbish. A shame, because this is a spectacular, steep route with quality rock and climbing, marred solely by it's (far too close) neighbours.

Classic Sport 15m, 9 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Fri 14th Aug '15
26 *** Realized Ultimate Reality Linkup

Originally just a lap to pose for some guidebook photos, but I decided to try for the Onsight anyway... it ended with a spectacular fall launching for the jug at the end of the crux. I didn't expect to enjoy this route (Im rubbish at steep climbing), but I was laughing manically and loving it as I climbed up and down the crux, and got to work the top half again and again for photos. This is just a bloody great sustained steep route, with more variety in the top half than the Reality Dystfunction

Classic Sport 20m, 11 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Fri 14th Aug '15
24 ** The Dreaming Void

Repeat, just to the half-height ledge. 24 to here. A good (pumpy) warmup to the ledge, mostly just steep jugging after the sandy start. Getting Simon's static rope to the ledge for guidebook photos.

Very Good Sport 29m, 12 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Fri 14th Aug '15
Mon 10th Aug '15 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Bald & Fossil Head Bald Head - Sector 1
22 ** The Dimerisation Interface

Almost, but not quite classic. Bloody long and very sustained at the grade. Like doing the crux part of the gr21 top pitch of mirrorball over and over again for 52m. Some of the harder moves might even push this into gr23 territory. Tricky to find the holds on the onsight due to literally no traffic since the FA (and moss on some crux holds), but probably worth more laps due to the beautiful slice of uninterrupted vericality that is Bald Head. Some fragile rock, but no real breakage. Windy!

- with Stephen Varney
Very Good Sport 52m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 10th Aug '15
Mon 10th Aug '15 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Bald & Fossil Head Bald Head - Sector 2
20 *** Advanced Air Studio

2nding Stephen. Clean. Hard at the grade, and at times quite thin. Wild position and enjoyable climbing getting progressively harder until you topout, but too fragile and even a bit chossy to be a classic. Bloody windy today!

- with Stephen Varney
Very Good Sport 35m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 10th Aug '15
Sun 9th Aug '15 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath The Sunbath
22 * Just Boot It

Repeat. 2nding Neil rather than tearing up his rope to clean on loweeoff. Short, steep, pumpy and chossy. A good end of day climb to completely write you off when you're already trashed.

Good Sport 15m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 9th Aug '15
Sun 9th Aug '15 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex
24 ** Buckley's Chance

This was the "lots of beta" flash, with Neil Monteith as the puppeteer pulling my string. ALMOST a classic, and a great contribution to this wall. Hard at the grade. The bottom 1/2 is brilliant, sustained technical thinness on good rock, with a lower crux that will baffle you (until you solve the riddle), and a higher crux that will test your crimping and your footwork. The top half is enjoyable, steep, pumpy jugging to the anchors. Better than anything sub-25 at this crag.

Very Good Sport 35m, 13 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 9th Aug '15
26 *** Thus Spoke Zarathustra (Linkup) (Thus Spoke Zarathustra)

Mega, and bloody hard work! The bottom 1/2 of Buckley's Chance is brilliant and hard work, and the upper half of Being and Nothingness is even harder, intense and committing. I was right on the edge of burnout and psyche-out when I ticked this 2nd shot. Probably the best way to do Being and Nothingess if you can hack the grade, and turns Buckley's Chance into a mega route.

Classic Sport 35m, 14 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 9th Aug '15
Sat 8th Aug '15 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath Pole 28 Lower Cliff
*** Impetus (The Impetus Project - PROJECT PAUL)

Top pitch only, 1 lap Top Rope Solo. I then spent the day trying to work out the bottom pitch only to be utterly stymied by a single move. The top pitch is mega sustained 26ish, with hard, committing and very runout moves up tick-tac crimps to turn the roof and gain the headwall (a fall before the post headwall bolt will exemplify the name of the route), with sustained thinness above, and an upper crux to gain the turret headwall for a heartbreaker finale. Stoked with this one. What a line!

Classic Sport 30m, 7 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 8th Aug '15
Thu 6th Aug '15 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area The Pit Sector 'Pit Fighter'
28 *** Pit Fighter

Top Rope Solo. 2 laps sussing this mega crack. Sustained at about gr25 (and quite intense, with steep, powerful moves and spaced gear), but with a 4 move boulder problem crux to earn it the grade. The crux is crack-bouldering at 30 degrees+ overhang, and is both extremely sharp and a finger destroyer... but funky and in my vein of bouldering. With some more laps, and a bit of time on the woody training the angle, I think I could tick this... Brilliant!

Classic Trad 30m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Thu 6th Aug '15
Sun 2nd Aug '15 - GFC
Tiger Wall
Witness the Chipness Project (Closed)

A quick play-around before it got dark... I just wanted a look at the crazy roof-pockets-campus-problem. Good, sustained start to the roof, and outrageous roof-campusing on pockets to the lip. Didn't get above that to investigate further before time ran out.

Sport 16m, 7 GFC Paul Thomson
Sun 2nd Aug '15
25 *** Funky Monks

2nd shot. I made a dogs breakfast of the crux move at the 3rd bolt on my first lap today (after being dropped to the ground from above that a few weeks ago -my tailbone is still extremely painful-, the silly 3rd bolt placement meant I balked for a while before I would commit to it), but it was Mark and Execute on the 2nd lap. Most of this climb is great moves on solid-rock, with some funky climbing, but the dubious rock at the top needs a real scrub and the bolt needs moving for it to be classic

Very Good Sport 18m, 10 GFC Paul Thomson
Sun 2nd Aug '15
25 *** The Downward Spiral

2nd shot. I really struggled with the final roof-boulder-problem on my first lap, but on the 2nd lap the entire climb felt solid. A nice, solid, sustained gr25 with a tough, bouldery finale. 95% perfect, bullet-hard rock, and a radical variety of moves. Thoroughly enjoyable.

Classic Sport 15m, 9 GFC Paul Thomson
Sun 2nd Aug '15
Sun 2nd Aug '15 - GFC
Angry Ant Arena
23 * FOMO

Climbed in the original pre-Mikl-Modification form by not clipping the last 2 bolts below the anchor... just so I could experience it's original committing finale. Not very hard at the grade, and some poxy rock on the first half, but not too bad for a warmup. The "committing" finish isn't really all that committing and with nothing to hit on the way down, especially when you consider that this is a giveaway at the grade.

Good Sport 12m, 4 GFC Paul Thomson
Sun 2nd Aug '15
Fri 31st Jul '15 - Alford's Point
Alford Point Main Area
23 ** Exploding V

Night ascent. Not bad climbing, but the (literally) 1 crux move is 3 grades harder than anything else on this, and is just unpleasant. The rest of it is an enjoyable 20/21, with some funky moves up the V-grove (and some entertaining upside down knee-bars). Not sure how the crux move goes at 23, especially for anyone shorter than JengA.

Good Sport 15m Alford's Point Paul Thomson
Fri 31st Jul '15
23 * Fabulous Muppet Show Direct Start

Muffed the initial dyno twice on the Onsight (thanks heaps for the tickmarks where the good holds WEREN'T, somebody). After marking the good spot to dyno to, I cruised to the top. Soft at the grade, and about 19 after the initial dyno, getting easier all the way to the top.

Good Sport 14m Alford's Point Paul Thomson
Fri 31st Jul '15
21 * Cherry

Repeat. Good to get back on the first route I ever bolted. I was surprised at how "neat" my bolting on this one was. One hard move past the 2nd bolt, then sustained at an easier grade to the top. Not too bad.

Very Good Sport 15m, 6 Alford's Point Paul Thomson
Fri 31st Jul '15
20 * Brother Sun

Probably 21. I only found the mono move at the start tricky (I could reach past the "thin" move further up by using handjam underclings and good footwork). Sustained in the lower half, then enjoyably easy in the upper section. Nice face climbing.

Very Good Sport 15m, 6 Alford's Point Paul Thomson
Fri 31st Jul '15
Fri 31st Jul '15 - Lomandra Place Cave
17 Cockatoomachoo

The Very Good rating is for doing this as a Highball boulder problem (without mats). Probably not worth the effort of roping up for it, but as a solo it's quite enjoyable. Nice turtle-shell slab upper section, with a committing thin move right at the top.

Very Good Sport 8m, 2 Lomandra Place Cave Paul Thomson
Fri 31st Jul '15
20 * Underpants on the Outside

Unpretentious. A few tricky moves, but a bit stop-start ledge-to-ledge climbing. The last few metres are tricky thinness.

Good Sport 10m, 3 Lomandra Place Cave Paul Thomson
Fri 31st Jul '15
24 ** Bat Hang

Rested at the 7th bolt on Onsight lots of broken rock here with chalk around it, no clipping hold?) ended up skipping it for a ground-scraper runout. Sure, it's steep-ish, but not a great deal of "roofing" (more in the line of grovelling). Insanely sharp from the 3rd to the 7th bolt, and with very average rock. I could do this 2nd shot for sure, but I didn't enjoy it, and really wasn't a big fan of the steak-knives for holds.

Good Sport 15m, 10 Lomandra Place Cave Paul Thomson
Fri 31st Jul '15
Fri 31st Jul '15 - Alfords Point Bouldering
V5 Back Slam

Took a few goes to put the initial moves together. Only briefly hard, but very punchy until you gain the jug. The moves up the face are dirty, mossy and a bit scary.

Good Boulder Alfords Point Bouldering Paul Thomson
Fri 31st Jul '15
V6 ** Jetski Jerks

Put together all the moves, but haven't tried linking them. I still need to commit to the crimps on the headwall. Funky steep traversing, then some committing and desperate thin moves up the headwall. Good fun.

Very Good Boulder 5m Alfords Point Bouldering Paul Thomson
Fri 31st Jul '15
V7 *** Stringybark Massacre

Climbed from the block at the end of the traverse slopers to the top, but can't do the 1m of slopers on the traverse. I was putting together an alternative using the underclings, but need to spend more time on it to get it dialled. An enjoyable long-ish problem on good rock and with a nice mix of holds. The topout is fun.

Classic Boulder 6m Alfords Point Bouldering Paul Thomson
Fri 31st Jul '15
V2 Reward

A cool pocket, then more dirt and moss.

Average Boulder 4m Alfords Point Bouldering Paul Thomson
Fri 31st Jul '15
V2 Lift Off

Climbing is okay, but too mossy and dirty.

Average Boulder 4m Alfords Point Bouldering Paul Thomson
Fri 31st Jul '15
V3 Me

Not bad, not great. A few burly moves and an awkward mantle.

Average Boulder 2m Alfords Point Bouldering Paul Thomson
Fri 31st Jul '15
Tue 28th Jul '15 - Grampians
Victoria Range Mt Fox Area Muline Crag
27 *** Desert Rose

2 shots. GREAT climbing, but ridiculously cruxy. Between a 2-move crux that is 3 grades harder than anything else on this route, and the rubbish equipping (trad is fine, but carrot bolt, fixed wire, mangled hangers and no anchor?) I could never call this Classic. Outside of the first 2 moves of the crux, the climbing is classy, outrageous, improbable and stylish. All the HALLMARKS of a classic. I never truly managed to do the crux sequence as a SEQUENCE but cruised (and loved) the rest.

Very Good Mixed 20m, 4 Grampians Paul Thomson
Tue 28th Jul '15
23 * Munro Street

Good to clean up this old dog from over a year ago, first shot today, though in similar conditions to when I was last here (that is to say: damp). Great, super pumpy, sloper traverse climbing that is as entertaining to climb as it is awful to clean. Thanks Scott for seconding it. A good warmup for... um... everything else at the crag.

Very Good Sport 15m Grampians Paul Thomson
Tue 28th Jul '15
Mon 27th Jul '15 - Grampians
Victoria Range Eureka Area Eureka Wall
29 *** Pavlov's Dog

Wow, KP, this is up there with THE BEST. Technical, pumpy, immaculate and intense for 40-odd metres. There is 1 Jug on the entire pitch. 3 laps on Top Rope Solo putting it all together, with surprisi gly good linkage on the 2nd lap (but utterly worn-out by the 3rd lap). Dialled all 5-6 cruxes, but really struggled on the hardest Flake Crux with a blind footer. The top headwall is beautiful steep thinness and nails when pumped. With more endurance I could do this... This is a route to aspire to!

Mega Classic Sport 14 Grampians Paul Thomson
Mon 27th Jul '15
Sun 26th Jul '15 - GFC
Tiger Wall
24 *** The Goat Fucker Mega Route

As close to perfect as I could want a route in this style (and in south-west sydney) to be. Only the "accelerated erosion" robs it of my megaclassic status. Sustained, intense, pumpy, technical, involved and on great quality and aesthetically pleasing rock. Need more adjectives to sell the quality of this climb? Not a true onsight, as I rested on a bolt (outside of any actual climbing) to make sure I didnt steal Bundys route... but I can live wih myself calling it an onsight.

Classic Sport 15m, 7 GFC Paul Thomson
Sun 26th Jul '15
Sat 25th Jul '15 - Grampians
Victoria Range Eureka Area The Red Sail
23 ** Sailing Away

Wow, an intense warmup. As Adam said, this climb is surprisingly bold, and kind of intimidating in the lower 1/2. Enjoyable thin arete and face climbing for the first 2/3rds, then steep, pumpy exposed arete and face finale. I struggled to find the good holds through the steepness, and it felt utterly desperate. I was so pumped I couldnt clip the top 2 bolts and just had to run it out. Brilliant, but not as aesthetic as I was expecting. Easy to clean on lower with an 80m rope.

Classic Mixed 45m, 3 Grampians Paul Thomson
Sat 25th Jul '15
Fri 24th Jul '15 - Grampians
Victoria Range Eureka Area Eureka Wall
25 *** Vege Maths

The 2013 edition Gramps guide has this as a Sport Climb... this is NOT a sport climb (this has been rectified in the newest edition). I got a bit crunched falling off trying to gain the 3rd bolt, with no gear to protect the tricky move, and unable to reverse it. After skimming the ground, torrential rain put an end to my attempt. The traverse in was tricky but interesting (felt gr25 in itself - though it was damp so I might be wrong). Looks stunning. Next time, perhaps, but with GEAR.

Mixed 30m, 8 Grampians Paul Thomson
Fri 24th Jul '15
22 ** String Theory

Pitch 1 Only as a warmup. I had gear in Pythagoras Theorum so I lowered off to the ground, then had funky self-belay/aid/free fun seconding myself to get my own gear back. An awesome warmup if you're doing Pythagoras, though potentially a nuisence to clean. I got surprisingly pumped towards the end heel-hooking along the slopey break. P2 looks radical and obvious... intriguing.

Very Good Mixed 80m, 8 Grampians Paul Thomson
Fri 24th Jul '15
Thu 23rd Jul '15 - Grampians
Victoria Range Eureka Area Eureka Wall
26 *** Pythagoras' Theorem

Utterly stoked! 2nd shot today, 6th lap total (incl. top rope laps). On the 1st shot I had a random foot slip on the last hard move of the crux, but on the Send it went flawlessly. 13min from setoff to topout according to my phone. So much extreme, tenuous stemming and tiny movements relying on friction and tension to stay on the wall. Stressful and intimidating, but very rewarding. This was the 4th (and last) of my big adventure goals to be knocked off in the past year.

Mega Classic Mixed 50m, 3 Grampians Paul Thomson
Thu 23rd Jul '15
Thu 23rd Jul '15 - Grampians
Victoria Range Eureka Area Eureka Wall
26 *** Pythagoras' Theorem

TRS as a warmup to re-equip the route and refine beta on the lower crux. Struggled in the sweaty sun, but got the gear on (placing it all while leading) and came up with a new sequence for the lower crux that made it more strenuous, but more solid.

Mega Classic Mixed 50m, 3 Grampians Paul Thomson
Thu 23rd Jul '15
26 *** Pythagoras' Theorem

2 laps top rope. Finally figured out the crux move on the 1st lap. Good linkage on the 2nd lap, but a footslip on the lower crux and another at the main crux before I fixed up my sequence... Then linked from below main crux to the top. Still feels bloody insecure... but possible? Stripped most of my gear but left a fixed rope in situ for easy re-equiping when I come back in a few days.

Mega Classic Mixed 50m, 3 Grampians Paul Thomson
Tue 21st Jul '15
Tue 21st Jul '15 - Grampians
Victoria Range Eureka Area Eureka Towers
22 *** Return to Gariwerd

Seconding myself (also clean) to get my gear back, after my belayer suddenly decided it was too cold for him to climb today. Still bloody magnificent.

Mega Classic Trad 22m Grampians Paul Thomson
Tue 21st Jul '15
22 *** Return to Gariwerd

Stunning! Like a mini Archimedes Principle. A bloody exciting warmup in arctic conditions and with winds so fierce they almost blew me off the jugs. Several times on the headwall I had to hang on bad holds waiting for the wind to subside so I could do the moves without being blown off! Great, but tricky gear. Awesome sustained face climbing up a beautiful wall, which goes at an improbably tame grade considering its intimidating blankness. Best all gear 22 I've done?

Mega Classic Trad 22m Grampians Paul Thomson
Tue 21st Jul '15
Mon 20th Jul '15 - Grampians
Victoria Range Eureka Area Eureka Wall
26 *** Pythagoras' Theorem

Wow. Committing to the start fall-across from the fin took a while. Onsight to the undercling lower crux, then foot slip, then clean to 2m from the traverse jug placing gear before the wheels fell off. After a lot of falls I still haven't worked out 1.5m of extreme stemming to gain the traverse jug. Once on jug, clean to top. Amazing technical climb with slightly fiddly gear, and an utterly desperate crux. I need KP to resurrect the Gerbil to get through this clean. Back tomorrow.

Mega Classic Mixed 50m, 3 Grampians Paul Thomson
Mon 20th Jul '15
20 Darwin's theory into Diminishing returns

Repeat. A great warmup. Long, varied climbing. Good but spaced gear, and a punchy finale. The end section might be 21ish.

Very Good Trad Grampians Paul Thomson
Mon 20th Jul '15
Fri 17th Jul '15 - Rockford
19 Long Arm of the Law

More junk. I couldnt clip the anchors of the 20 (the crux move of both routes) and fell off. Not worth the effort of back-climbing it to clean it. The best move is gaining the traverse.

Average Sport 9m Rockford Paul Thomson
Fri 17th Jul '15
25 *** Crafty Single

Some people were doing some good drugs when they gave this 3 stars (and measured it at 12m). Grade 22 climbing for 7m, then a V4 boulder problem to make the last metre to the anchors. I never put together the last move, and really couldnt be bothered.

Average Sport 12m, 7 Rockford Paul Thomson
Fri 17th Jul '15
25 * Strain your Brain

3rd shot. Punted the 2nd shot 1/2 metre from the anchors. The best route I did all day. Involves consistent climbing despite being short. No real stopper crux. Ridiculously steep. The boulder proble off the ground is fun. Probably soft at 25.

Very Good Sport 9m Rockford Paul Thomson
Fri 17th Jul '15
23 ** I Can Believe it's Not Legal Extension

V3 stopper crux... that move felt about the limit of what I can do through this kind of steepness. The sequence is interesting (and desperate), and if his were a boulder off the ground it would be worth the effort. As it is, it's not worth another lap.

Good Sport 9m Rockford Paul Thomson
Fri 17th Jul '15
20 I Can Believe it's Not Legal

7m is probably an exaggeration. The hardest move by about 2 grades is trying to clip the anchors (I almost didnt manage it). This pre-extension section ends in a very strange spot (could easily go 2m higher without adding a grade). Steep and slopey. Felt hard.

Average Sport 7m Rockford Paul Thomson
Fri 17th Jul '15
22 Crime is Bolting

Heh. V2 going direct, for sure. Imagine the worst move you might find that ruins an otherwise classic route. Now imagine a route that consists solely and utterly of that move. That is this "route" (I use that term loosely). 2 shots. Fell off after sticking the crux move. Not worth the time to tie back in again.

Don't Bother Sport 6m Rockford Paul Thomson
Fri 17th Jul '15
Wed 15th Jul '15 - Blue Mountains
Bell's Line of Road Bell Supercrag Duck Wall
23 * Scrooge McDuck

EOD lap right on the edge of darkness. First time back on this since I did the FA over 2 years ago. The best bits of Daffy with much added pump and some weird climbing (and an improbably crux at the grade). Solid at the grade, for sure, but enough creative rests to mitigate the difficulty. The final move could be a heartbreaker. Still quite enjoyable, and cleaning up nicely.

Very Good Sport 25m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 15th Jul '15
26 *** Duck Walk

3 shots in deteriorating conditions. A satisfying onsight attempt to just below the big roof, then I continued to struggle with the move to turn the big roof on subsequent attempts. Some refined beta from the last lap may be the solution I was looking for when I get back on this beauty. Long, varied, intense, technical and pumpy. Mostly good rock. Lots of challenging moves.

Classic Sport 18m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 15th Jul '15
20 Pekin Duck

Maybe the best "moderate" warmup for Duck Wall. Pumpy, but not too hard or long. Very straightforward stylistically. The runout bit in the middle is about grade 18, so it's not overly scary either. What's not to like?

Very Good Sport Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 15th Jul '15
Sun 12th Jul '15 - GFC
Tiger Wall
25 *** Funky Monks (Funky Monks - Wade's Project)

An inspection lap on Wade's Project, which I've heard so much about. 1 big fall at the 4th bolt (until I figured out where the holds past the big roof are), Onsight either side of the fall. Felt Solid 25 to me, with a wide range of styles, varied and ridiculous footwork, and uninterrupted climbing. A great route in its own right, and one I'd give another lap for the tick when Wade sends it. Hurry up already, mate.

Classic Sport 18m, 10 GFC Paul Thomson
Sun 12th Jul '15
25 ** Smoke, Mirrors, Lightning

Bailed off the top headwall. With some tickmarks and scrubbing it would be fine, but as it was I was shredding skin lobbing for stuff in the hope that they were holds. Good climbing up to the crux. The crux itself took me quite a few falls to figure out (I cant use Matt's tricky kneebar beta cause my knee doesnt fit) but when I EVENTUALLY figured it out the moves went STYLISHLY. The crux bolt needs moving, as it is I cut a sling on it after only a few falls, and a quickdraw kept opening its gate

Very Good Sport 15m, 8 GFC Paul Thomson
Sun 12th Jul '15
23 *** ArĂȘtica

Good climbing and not too hard at the grade. Endurance and some crafty footwork make this sustained and enjoyable without being too stressful. Great moves once you leave the ledge. Probably should become the staple warmup for the harder stuff at GFC. As has been said before, if not for the Ledge, this would be classic. Now if only the "direct" (via the natural pocket) went free, now THAT would be outrageous climbing.

Very Good Sport 15m, 8 GFC Paul Thomson
Sun 12th Jul '15
Sun 12th Jul '15 - GFC
Westy Wall
18 ** Goober Boots

Good value (and bloody steep) for the grade. Good rock and interesting climbing. Not much of a warmup for the harder stuff, though.

Very Good Sport 14m, 7 GFC Paul Thomson
Sun 12th Jul '15
Sat 11th Jul '15 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Madness Area
25 * Unknown 25 Sport Route

Other than the chossy first few moves, this is an awesome sustained route at 23/24, with a prominent gr25 thin crux. Generally, the rock is great and inspiring to look at. I never managed to put together the thin crux before I ran out of skin, though it seems quite feasible. Some of the moves above the crux are bizarre for Blueys face climbing... but in a good way.

Very Good Sport 25m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 11th Jul '15
22 * Red Sails Direct

Short and kind of cruxy, but quite good. The opening roof is insanely steep (you're pretty much horizontal for a few moves), and the initial thinness after the lip is quite tricky... Though the climbing is over quickly.

I think a lot of people are confused about where these routes go. This one goes through a 2m roof section just off the ground, then up the wall to a chain anchor with the OPTION of linking into the Original Red Sails.

Very Good Sport 12m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 11th Jul '15
24 ** But the Raven, Sitting Lonely...

Via the more sustained (though less nails) LHV. Probably hard at 24. 2nd shot today (4th LAP total). Super-sustained steep pumping on great rock and at a tame grade. Mind-boggling terrain for the grade. Awesome! Gene proved today that the direct version does go free, though after another hour of working the move I still can't do it. 26/27 that way? Regardless, the original is a great (sustained) route in itself.

Very Good Sport 28m, 10 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 11th Jul '15
Thu 9th Jul '15 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Madness Area
** But the Raven, Sitting Lonely... (The Raven Project - PROJECT PAUL)

Another Top Rope solo lap, prepping the route (hammering off choss, and chalking it up), investigating the "direct" move and looking for alternatives to going into the crack. The answer is that there aren't any except for doing THE MOVE or the McDougal. Funky fun monkeying though.

Very Good Sport 28m, 10 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Thu 9th Jul '15
Tue 7th Jul '15 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Madness Area
** But the Raven, Sitting Lonely... (The Raven Project - PROJECT PAUL)

Top Rope Solo lap before bolting the route. Would ALMOST be classic for its outrageous steepness and position, but the brief McDougal out left to the crack to avoid a section of blankness robs it of its glory. Felt about 24ish this way, and funky big moves between good holds.

Very Good Sport 28m, 10 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Tue 7th Jul '15
Sun 5th Jul '15 - Nowra
The Grotto Cliffline The Grotto Proper
19 Fizzbomb

Bit of a goey move near the top. Once again, like it's neighbour to the left, the bolting on this is utterly stupid. And once again, it impedes a potentially good climb. Interesting balancy slabbing at the start, with some punchy moves through thinness further up. Quite contrived to stay on the blunt arete (as per the route description) and avoid the crack.

Good Sport 13m Nowra Paul Thomson
Sun 5th Jul '15
21 * Escape Velocity

Engaging from the traverse left (out of the groove) through the tic-tac balancy thinness and up to the obvious break (though worryingly fragile, will be unclimbable with much traffic), but the top is unforgivingly dirty at the moment, and robs the climb of any potential for enjoyment through the bulgy, reachy sloper-moves in the top half.

Very Good Sport 12m Nowra Paul Thomson
Sun 5th Jul '15
25 *** Lipstick

Just the one lap. Cruised the roof but couldn't stick the big throw before the crack. After falling off and taking 15min to bump back up (hooray for rope-drag making boinking impossible) I couldn't be bothered trying to work the throw. The "crux" crack moves felt burly, but reasonable once I committed to doing them (I climbed square on with fingerlocks), but I doubt I could do the lead-in throw anytime soon. As Neil said, too chossy and unpleasant to climb to be classic.

Very Good Sport 15m Nowra Paul Thomson
Sun 5th Jul '15
24 *** Zimbabalooba

1st shot today placing draws after trying it almost 3 years ago. Almost an Alzheimers onsight... Probably the best ACTUAL 24 (ie. Not stupidly sandbagged 24-going-on-26) I've done at Nowra. Classy climbing with big moves on reasonable holds made easier with smart footwork and creative body-positioning. Sustained for the most part, and just genuinely great. Good to clean up this old dog.

Classic Sport 20m Nowra Paul Thomson
Sun 5th Jul '15
24 ** Metal Rain

Just the one lap. Managed to trap my left hand with my right leaving the "crimp-jug-sidepull" crux-exit on the flash, and when it finally pulled free I went with it. D'oh! A cruxy crimpy section at the bottom, and a slightly powerful thin section at the top surrounded by easier, enjoyable thin-ness. A pretty good route, but my circumcised fingers couldn't stomach another lap on this after the last 2 days of climbing.

Very Good Sport 25m Nowra Paul Thomson
Sun 5th Jul '15
20 Rockshox

A good climb, but stupidy bolted and rather dirty (simply due to lack of traffic). With a rebolt and some love with a wire-brush, this COULD be really good.

Very Good Sport 13m Nowra Paul Thomson
Sun 5th Jul '15
Sat 4th Jul '15 - Nowra
Thompson's Point The Very Nice Wall
25 *** Very Nice Piece of Cake

3 shots. Last lap I fell at the mono, 2 moves from the easier upper section. Pretty good climbing, but all the holds were covered in mud when I got on this today, and not a drop of chalk on it. The joys of being a water-streak. Short and punchy, though good value for its length. Im undecided as to whether this deserves a few more laps for the tick.

Good Sport 10m Nowra Paul Thomson
Sat 4th Jul '15
Sat 4th Jul '15 - Nowra
Thompson's Point Butterfly Wall
24 *** Butterfly Wall Direct

2nd RED POINT burn today. The first working lap was a long belay as I tried to work out viable sequences. Utterly nails at the grade (probably 26 in the blueys) but great climbing nevertheless. Evil undercling! Great to clean up this old nemesis.

Classic Sport 20m Nowra Paul Thomson
Sat 4th Jul '15
Sat 4th Jul '15 - Nowra
Thompson's Point The Very Nice Wall
23 ** Fattergram

2nd shot. NOT a good warmup, thougb it IS a bloody great climb. Looks rubbish, is perhaps a bit dirty and prone to seepage, but the intense quality of climbing makes up this. Lots of shocking pockets.

Very Good Sport 11m Nowra Paul Thomson
Sat 4th Jul '15
Sat 4th Jul '15 - Nowra
Thompson's Point Gunbarrel Wall
20 ** Birdsville Track

Great climb. The opening boulder problem is exciting as a warmup without having the 1st bolt clipped. The slabby sections of this are great. Perfect friction today.

Very Good Sport 23m Nowra Paul Thomson
Sat 4th Jul '15
Fri 3rd Jul '15 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road
The Gold Mine Fernville
24 *** Tecktonik

The Lots of Beta flash in the dark with a headlamp. If not for the somewhat poxy rock in the 1st few metres, and the stupidly positioned last bolt, this would be classic. Intense, sustained and unrelenting... though short. The opening moves are outregous. Crazy pockets!

Very Good Sport 14m New Nowra - Braidwood Road Paul Thomson
Fri 3rd Jul '15
23 ** Pocket Shot

Flash placing the draws. Quite sustained with good movements and great pockets. The opening section is a bit flaky, but an entertaining balancy sequence in itself.

Very Good Sport 16m, 6 New Nowra - Braidwood Road Paul Thomson
Fri 3rd Jul '15
25 *** Powder Burns

2nd shot, I felt very solid but very pumped on the send. Hard moves up to, clipping, and moving past the 3rd bolt, but the rest was easier (though still intense and sustained). Many funky pockets.

Very Good Sport 20m New Nowra - Braidwood Road Paul Thomson
Fri 3rd Jul '15
22 ** Cover Boy

Very cruxy. The exciting seam section is good, but the rest is an easy doddle. A very appealing line.

Very Good Sport 16m New Nowra - Braidwood Road Paul Thomson
Fri 3rd Jul '15
Fri 3rd Jul '15 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road
The Gold Mine Cafe Cruiser Wall
20 *** Café Cruiser

Good, but not the best 20 a Nowra. Long, on good rock, with a bit of everything. The slabby traverse left and the steep moves were fun Should probably have finished 5m lower (after the last rooflet) before the rock deteriorates. The only runout on this climb is in the bit with the worst ledge fall potential... seems a strange choice... especially on the crux moves at the grade of this climb.

Very Good Sport 30m New Nowra - Braidwood Road Paul Thomson
Fri 3rd Jul '15
Fri 3rd Jul '15 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road
The Gold Mine Wasp in the Willows
18 *** Wasp in the Willows

Nice long route on great rock with a variety of moves at a moderate grade. I thought the moves heading left before going up the roof were the money

Very Good Sport 25m New Nowra - Braidwood Road Paul Thomson
Fri 3rd Jul '15
Wed 1st Jul '15 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Zap Crag Upper Zap
28 *** Pulse

2 more shots. The first just remembering how to climb it and dial sequences, the 2nd with some linkage and minimal downtime. Still not sure how to clip the top 2 bolts... biiig runout maybe? Still quite a way from ticking it, but its thoroughly enjoyable. Classic.

Classic Sport 20m, 7 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 1st Jul '15
24 ** Transmission

Punted it at the start of the day 3/4 of the way up when I missed a throw to a jug, just climbing too casually and unfocused. Did another lap at EOD and sent it packing despite how tired I was feeling. Bouldery start, big reaches/throws in the middle, and a cruisy finale. Probably hard at the grade, bit good.

Very Good Sport 20m, 9 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 1st Jul '15
22 * Jug Buzz

Repeat. This time placing the draws. Good fun and a great warmup. Easy steepness.

Very Good Sport 15m, 6 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 1st Jul '15
Mon 29th Jun '15 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex
23 ** Smoko

Repeat. Seconding Stephen. Hard start, hard-ish finish, inconsistent (though enjoyable middle). Probably the best warmup for the harder stuff, and still a good climb in its own right. The hard sequences at the start are great climbing.

Very Good Sport 35m, 16 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 29th Jun '15
21 ** Like a Cut Snake

Repeat. Seconding Stephen. Seconded both pitches this time. Still good fun. Good warmup, though doing it as 2-pitches becomes a bit tedious.

Very Good Sport 35m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 29th Jun '15
Sun 28th Jun '15 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex
21 ** Like a Cut Snake

Repeat. With Neil Monteith. EOD to escape the crag. All clean, I lead the 1st pitch. Sure, its got some fragile rock, but the novely and exposure of it surely warrant a star or two. Better than I remembered.

Very Good Sport 35m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 28th Jun '15
25 ** Being and Nothingness

2nd shot today. Made it through the top crux on 1st shot placing the draws (and using a sequence that made it 1.5 grades harder), but a foot slip put an end to that. 2nd shot, with a refined upper crux sequence, this went solidly, but tiredly (no way I was getting another shot today). On my 1st lap, I had some exciting whips dialling the top moves. Might be easy at the grade. On par with Smoko for quality.

Very Good Sport 32m, 12 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 28th Jun '15
26 *** Leviathan

1st shot today. Probably hard at the grade, which is surprising considering that there are balancy no hands rests before each crux. The upper bulge is mega in its own right, and a real heartbreaker. Easily the 2nd best line at The Sporting Complex (after Life of Riley - and harder than it). A true, aesthetically pleasing classic.

Classic Sport 32m, 15 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 28th Jun '15
Fri 26th Jun '15 - Blue Mountains
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex
*** Leviathan (Leviathan - PROJECT PAUL)

4 laps (and 2 extra laps on just the top 1/3rd trying to get the final showstopper bulge dialled) none of them clean. 2nd, 3rd and 4th lap were all done with 1 totally pumped-out, utterly destroyed fall a metre or so from the top. Great climbing with so many damned square-edge micro-crimps. My crimp muscles are torched. It's strange that even with 3 balancy no-hands rests, the amount of time it takes to recover enough to crush the top crux is almost insurmountable on link. Definitely HARD 25.

Classic Sport 32m, 15 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Fri 26th Jun '15
Wed 24th Jun '15 - Booroomba Rocks
North Buttress Determinant Buttress
20 * High as Kites

Wow. Bold. When this started raining at it's most runout (and still difficult) section, I got the most scared I've been in years. VERY spaced gear with some monster fall potential, and quite sustained between a few stances. The "2nd smallest" RP I got in to protect the crazy 6m runout above the first bolt was classic Psychological gear. Regardless of the boldness, the actual climbing is pretty good for a granite friction slab.

Very Good Mixed 40m, 3 Booroomba Rocks Paul Thomson
Wed 24th Jun '15
18 ** Jetts Sett

Pitch 3 (steep corner crack left of the prow) ONLY. Seconding Stephen. A great pitch in its own right. Enjoyable steep crack on good rock with some classic easy laybacking leading to some funky wideness and stemming. Even the upper "gardening" section to gain the Fiasco Rap Anchors isn't so bad. Well protected.

Very Good Trad 85m Booroomba Rocks Paul Thomson
Wed 24th Jun '15
Wed 24th Jun '15 - Booroomba Rocks
North Buttress Central Slabs
20 ** Anything So Nothing

P1 only. The upper pitches were completely wet and unclimbable, and P1 was half under the "extended" water streak. A great climb with some bloody exciting runouts, made harder when half the holds are under water and thus unusable. A varied, old-school, wandery-but-logical ramble of a pitch. I broke off a hold right near the final mantle (after ALL that) and whipped onto the rusty bash-in carrot that I'd "clipped" with a wire.

Very Good Trad 110m Booroomba Rocks Paul Thomson
Wed 24th Jun '15

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