More than 1,000 Ascents by Paul Thomson

 
Searching in:

Route filters:

Ascent filters:

Climber filters:

Sort by:

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 1,000 ascents

Grade Route Quality Style Crag Climber Date
Sat 30th Apr '16 - Bare Rock
21 ** Yesterday's Hero

Flash, about 5min after the First Ascent. A really good, sustained and varied technical slab, with 3 moves that I wasn't sure I'd get through without a slip. Harder if you're short.

Very Good Sport 45m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Sat 30th Apr '16
** Agony and Ecstasy in Eight Parts - PROJECT PAUL

Pitches 1 - 4 only... We were rained off before we could push this any higher.

P1 & P2 (gr16 and gr24) - FLASH 1st Ascent! Climbed as a giant 50m pitch from the ground. Gerry kindly donated P2 to me for the FA. Awesome face moves, to outrageous moves to turn the roof.

P3 (21) - 2nd shot. Short, hard, slightly contrived slab.

P4 (23) - 1st shot placing draws. Really good. Classic in its own right. Hard, improbable traverse. Funky moves to turn the lip, then fun slabbing. Great rock.

- with anon
Very Good Sport 190m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Sat 30th Apr '16
Thu 28th Apr '16 - Bare Rock
** Agony and Ecstasy in Eight Parts - PROJECT PAUL

Pitch 6 and Pitch 8 today, working out bolt positions. Pitch 6 is rad, steep bouldering at 25/26... might be a tough tick. Pitch 8 is just an exit pitch on average rock, but its not too bad, and only about grade 15.

Very Good Sport 190m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Thu 28th Apr '16
Mon 25th Apr '16 - Bungonia Gorge
South Wall - Main
25 *** Air Malta

Pitch 5 is a classic, the rest is mostly good/very good. P1:2nd Clean (with Neil's beta at the bouldery crux bulge); P2:Onsight (Okay slabbing to some fun steepness at the end); P3:2nd Clean (long, pleasant slabbing with crux start); P4:Dog (falls in 4 sections working it out. Would go 2nd shot if we didn't have a queue behind us); Radical steepness with amazing moves; P5:2nd Unclean (1 fall at the end. Pack and Heat contributing). Thuggish with a hard finish. P6:Dog (punted a slab move). Slabby

- with Neil Monteith
Very Good Sport 240m Bungonia Gorge Paul Thomson
Mon 25th Apr '16
Sun 24th Apr '16 - Bungonia Gorge
South Wall - Little Thai Wall
22 ** Gilding the Lily

Climbed via the Lame Duck start. Really good (and difficult) climbing. I'm not ashamed to admit that I struggled a bit, though I got it clean.

Classic Sport 25m, 9 Bungonia Gorge Paul Thomson
Sun 24th Apr '16
Sun 24th Apr '16 - Bungonia Gorge
South Wall - Phantom Menace Wall
24 ** Sarah Fieg's Route

Grrr. Broke a hold off while chilling on the jugs 1m below the anchor on my retro flash on link. After that I was just pissed off. Pretty funky climbing for a short route, with jugs where you don't expect them, and a surprising amount of steepness.

Very Good Sport 17m Bungonia Gorge Paul Thomson
Sun 24th Apr '16
Sun 24th Apr '16 - Bungonia Gorge
North Wall - Main
25 *** Dark Side of a Loon

P1 only. P2 and P3 look rad, but were wet. Amazing climbing with a hideously chossy (and ridiculously bolted) slab start, leading to outrageous and improbable roof climbing, and an awesome headwall. The 1st 2 bolts in the roof are stupidly positioned (and create epic drag). I struggled with a move mid-roof on the onsight, and rope drag at the lip of the roof, but linked all the awesome steep headwall. Rebolt.... SERIOUSLY!

Classic Sport 85m Bungonia Gorge Paul Thomson
Sun 24th Apr '16
28 ** Jealous Mistress

Had no idea what this was, but it was DRY! Climbed the first 4 bolts (10m) to the MISSING 5th bolt, then tried to do the traverse left to the 6th bolt (without the 5th bolt) before breaking a footer and whipping off. Okay technical climbing to this point... but the bolt quality is rubbish, and the missing hanger makes the traverse ridiculous. Bailed from the 4th bolt.

Sport Bungonia Gorge Paul Thomson
Sun 24th Apr '16
Mon 18th Apr '16 - Bare Rock
** Agony and Ecstasy in Eight Parts - PROJECT PAUL

Top Rope Solo of Pitch 3 before bolting. A short (12m?) technical slab at about grade 22. Wanders a bit at the start away from "the obvious line" and onto a line of harder climbing, in order to climb the better rock.

Very Good Sport 190m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Mon 18th Apr '16
19 * Tomorrows Dream

Repeat. Seconding Daniel with about 20kgs of gear in a backback to get to the belay at the end of Pitch 1, so I could Jumaar up my fixed rope and continue bolting my new route.

Very Good Sport 100m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Mon 18th Apr '16
Mon 18th Apr '16 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
24 *** Heaven Can Wait

Repeat. Alzheimers Onsight! I jumped on this 10min after coming down from my 3rd lap on No Space in Time to get my buddys draws back. Climbed it all clean placing the top 5 draws. Cruised most of it, but the final 3 bolts almost spat me off as the pump I carried over from the last climb caught up with me. It was a good fight! This is a brilliant, and very tough climb at the grade.

Classic Sport 30m, 14 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Mon 18th Apr '16
28 *** No Space in Time

3 more shots. Second shot was my best lap yet, linking on lead all the way up the crack and through both cruxes, falling a mere 5m from the anchors on grade 24 terrain (I hesitated on a move, and didn't have the momentum to carry it through). After falling, I had 1min rest, then climbed from below the 2nd crux to the top. So. Damn. Close! 3rd shot my belayer almost dropped me on the ledge, and I lost confidence to commit to the moves. Hopefully I can get this done before I have to leave Tas...

Classic Sport 25m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Mon 18th Apr '16
24 * Smoke on the Water

Repeat. First time back on this since my Onsight First Ascent over a year ago. Having seen a climber pulling off large amounts of bad rock on this route, I spent 2 hours hammering, scrubbing and cleaning it, and went for a lap today to see how it's turned out. Fortunately, it's actually ended up being reasonably good (worthy of 1 star), with almost all the rubbish rock gone, and only good climbing remaining. Quite a few hard cruxy sequences, separated by amazing stances. Last moves are main crux

Very Good Sport 30m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Mon 18th Apr '16
Sat 16th Apr '16 - Bare Rock
** Agony and Ecstasy in Eight Parts - PROJECT PAUL

Top Rope Solo, piecing together the complex 45m 4th pitch. Technical, cruxy traverse underneath a series of roofs (23/24?), turn the final roof, then up an immaculate Tiger-striped slab on great rock (19/20) to anchors just below the great roof. Pretty rad.

Very Good Sport 190m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Sat 16th Apr '16
23 ** Tomorrows Dream - Variant 2nd Pitch

Repeat. 2nd clean today. This and technical. 21/22?

Very Good Sport Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Sat 16th Apr '16
19 * Tomorrows Dream

Repeat. Lead Pitches 1 and 2 this time (both clean), and seconded the fully bolted variant 2nd pitch (clean). Had all the fun of hauling 20kgs of bolting gear up this one to get my ropes in position for developing a new line. Still enjoyable, though easy.

Very Good Sport 100m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Sat 16th Apr '16
Fri 15th Apr '16 - Bare Rock
The Block
21 * Cock Block (Unknown Mixed Route)

In the dark without a headlamp... I didn't have any Trad gear so the entire 2nd half of the climb (including the crux... which is almost into the "no fall" levels of runout without gear) had no pro on my ascent. Actually fairly enjoyable face/crack climbing, though over very quickly.

Good Mixed 12m, 4 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Fri 15th Apr '16
26 Elana's Project - CLOSED PROJECT (Andrew's Project #2)

Clean on Top Rope. This is still a Project so I couldn't steal the First Ascent. Took me about 8 shots to stick the (softish) V4 boulder start (falling back to the ground each time), then continued clean to the top. Very powerful start on great rock, followed by slopey, groovy weirdness to the top.

Good Sport 8m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Fri 15th Apr '16
Fri 15th Apr '16 - Bare Rock
25 *** God Monster

Repeat. First 2 pitches only in the full sun to pass a few hours. It might be the heat, or the last 2 days of route development, but I actually whipped (falling about 10m) off the first pitch, while trying to clip the last bolt at my ankle. P2 clean on second. Both pitches are definately solid 23, without the slightest trace of a doubt.

Very Good Sport 130m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Fri 15th Apr '16
Thu 14th Apr '16 - Bare Rock
Supernaut Face
20 ** Master of Puppets - Pitch 2

A quick Onsight ascent helping Andrew Martin get his fixed ropes in place to commence working the (gr26) bottom pitch. Very exposed position on the lip of The Great Roof, with technical thin face climbing on great rock that starts easy and gets harder all the way. A worthwhile pitch... but probably too much mucking around just to climb this pitch on its own.

Very Good Sport 30m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Thu 14th Apr '16
Thu 14th Apr '16 - Bare Rock
The Block
15 Block O'Clock

A bit mossy, dirty and friable to make a solid free-solo... but probably not too unpleasant for a short, easy, thin arete if you actually bring a rope.

Average Sport 8m, 3 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Thu 14th Apr '16
25 Dust in the Wind - CLOSED PROJECT (Andrew's Project #3)

2nd shot on Top Rope. This is still a Project so I couldn't steal the First Ascent. A solid V3+ boulder problem in the first 5m, then about grade 16 technical slab to the top. Some funky, powerful moves.

Good Sport 9m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Thu 14th Apr '16
Wed 13th Apr '16 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
28 *** No Space in Time

3 more laps. Hideous conditions and my foolish decision to get drunk as a skunk last night left me shakey and short-of-breath. Still, despite this mixed bag, I still managed some of my best linkage, getting this more-or-less down to 2 falls, and linking almost the entire face section (after the bottom trad component) in one go on lead. Getting there.

Classic Sport 25m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Wed 13th Apr '16
23 ** Fire in the sky

Repeat. Placing draws today. This is the worst I've ever felt on this route (despite still climbing it clean). My epic hangover left me shakey, out-of-breath, and unfocused. Damn.

Classic Sport 30m, 16 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Wed 13th Apr '16
28 *** No Space in Time

Rapped in from the top to put the gear back on the route, and did one quick lap on Top Rope Solo to remind myself of the moves. As a warmup, in the full sun, I did this with 3 rests... can't complain too much.

Classic Sport 25m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Tue 12th Apr '16
Sat 9th Apr '16 - Coles Bay
Coastal Cliffs White Water Wall
12 ** Lace Thunder

Repeat. Not bad for the first half, but pretty dirty, loose and average at the top.

Very Good Trad 45m Coles Bay Paul Thomson
Sat 9th Apr '16
15 ** Unnammed (Nice no name 15)

Repeat. Great climbing (with SOME friable rock) and a few intriguing sequences. The friction slab moves 40m above the ocean make for some intense climbing on Free Solo.

Very Good Trad 50m Coles Bay Paul Thomson
Sat 9th Apr '16
12 *** Apline

Repeat. A dawn-free-solo contriving myself onto the pink Aplite streak for superior climbing (and harder moves). Absolutely freaking stunning.

Mega Classic Trad 70m Coles Bay Paul Thomson
Sat 9th Apr '16
Sun 10th Apr '16 - Coles Bay
Hazards Cliffs Star Factory
29 *** Augmentium

3 laps on Top Rope. Managed to link to the crux upper 1/3rd on my 3rd lap. Managed all the sequences of the crux, with some linkage and overlapping, but would need a LOT of time and effort to get it dialled. Strenuous varied jamming on glassy feet for the first 2/3rds, then polished, technical moves up a fused vague corner with non-existant feet and holds. Lots of body tension required. Gear is good enough, but spaced at the top.

Classic Trad 30m Coles Bay Paul Thomson
Sun 10th Apr '16
23 *** Antimatter

Warmup repeat. Placing draws today. Awesomeness.

Mega Classic Sport 25m, 9 Coles Bay Paul Thomson
Sun 10th Apr '16
29 *** Entree

Crag Sampler Day, Climb #3 - Flashed to half height placing draws, then dogfest putting together the top. Pumpy, powerful and juggy moves to halfway, then non-stop hard sequences to the top with no rest. 2 moves I never worked out, but I was limited by time. The Gaston-match-deadpoint sequence is malevolently demanding, and the upper overhanging bottomless groove is baffling and amazing. I really enjoyed this.

Classic Sport 25m Coles Bay Paul Thomson
Sat 9th Apr '16
28 ** Street Fighter

Crag Sampler Day, Climb #2 - Bailed off this at half-height, after taking numerous big falls trying to work out a hard sequence, I stripped the route before I could get frustrated. Seems like it could be a rad route, bit really needs 2 more bolts (it has 7 bolts in 25m at the moment).

Sport 20m, 7 Coles Bay Paul Thomson
Sat 9th Apr '16
27 *** Ferret On A Leash

Crag Sampler Day, Climb #1 - Quite a few falls at the 2m hardest section of the crux working it out. Onsight the other 23m of the climb. enjoyable 20/21 corner to ledge. Then a few tricky moves to a short and hard tips layback on smeared feet crux, then a committing and intimidating topout up a slab. Pretty good, but only 2 stars at this crag. Extremely cruxy climbing surrounded by very easy climbing is not my cup of tea.

Very Good Sport 25m, 11 Coles Bay Paul Thomson
Sat 9th Apr '16
23 *** Antimatter

Repeat. Cruised it today. Just enjoyed the journey this time. Classic.

Mega Classic Sport 25m, 9 Coles Bay Paul Thomson
Sat 9th Apr '16
Thu 7th Apr '16 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Northern Buttress Lower Cliff
20 *** Subterfuge

As one big pitch. Definately not 3 stars (more like 1 star), as it's rather contrived, extremely wandery and features sections of bad rock. Regardless, it's still very enjoyable face-climbing on gear in a "committing, and possibly dangerous" kind of way. While not technically that difficult, the crux moves at the bottom, protected by a single RP are thin and technical enough to get the old heart racing, and the upper sections are still very runout (though not ground-fall territory).

Very Good Trad 45m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Thu 7th Apr '16
17 *** Centaur

A brilliant, soaring crack-climb. The moves around the rooflet are what really make this climb, but it's full value for its entire duration. Seemed a tad runout at the start?

Classic Trad 48m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Thu 7th Apr '16
Mon 4th Apr '16 - Coles Bay
Hazards Cliffs Star Factory
28 *** Simply The Best

2 shots. The first was a Dogs breakfast, but the 2nd I managed to link to the main crux from the ground (about gr25 to here), then put together the crux and all the moves to the top with good linkage, including the extremely committing finale (which needed some excitingly big swinging falls to sort). I still can't QUITE dial the final part of the crux. Immaculate, varied and super-sustained. The stunning, committing headwall is technical, tenuous and insecure with intimidating sideways runouts.

Classic Sport 20m Coles Bay Paul Thomson
Mon 4th Apr '16
23 *** Antimatter

Repeat. Still amazing. Full disclosure: I actually fell off turning the roof for the first time ever (after running up the hill from Sleepy Bay and starting up this without even a pause)... D'oh!

Classic Sport 25m, 9 Coles Bay Paul Thomson
Mon 4th Apr '16
Thu 31st Mar '16 - Bare Rock
Rap-In Area between Boneyard and The Great Roof
*** Obsidian Obsession - Project Paul

3 more "laps". 28 Degrees and in the full sun today, I couldn't link anything in the crux beyond the first 2 moves, so I went for 3 x 3 *back-to-back-to-back" laps on the gr26 opening 10m, climbing till I fell, lowering off, then climbing straight up again, and repeating it. My philosophy is that it will help me arrive at the crux feeling less tired if I can climb it clean (to the crux) 3 x back-to-back. Only managed 2 x so far (and 3/4 on 3rd lap).

Mega Classic Sport 25m, 11 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Thu 31st Mar '16
Wed 30th Mar '16 - Bare Rock
Rap-In Area between Boneyard and The Great Roof
*** Obsidian Obsession - Project Paul

3 more lead shots today. 1st was a throwaway to put draws on and re-tick the route. 2nd was linkage to the 2nd move of the crux. Then working the last 2 moves of the crux. Then clean to the top. On this lap the 5th crux move was feeling best yet, but the 6th was still tricky. Improved some foot beta (slightly). 3rd lap was to 3rd move of the crux. Then total slaughterfest on 5th and 6th moves (didn't even WANT to pull on those mingen holds), and a battle to the top. Not sure. Really not sure. =(

Mega Classic Sport 25m, 11 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Wed 30th Mar '16
25 ** Amber Allure

Rad! 1st shot today, placing about half the draws, as a warmup. Hard 24/soft 25 for the true redpoint. But a very hard onsight! Not classic, but fun and varied climbing over a long excursion, following a linkup of natural features. 4 hard sections, each stylistically different, but 2 no-hands rests to keep it tame. Even Gazza enjoyed it!

Very Good Sport 32m, 16 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Wed 30th Mar '16
Tue 29th Mar '16 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
28 *** No Space in Time

3 more laps today. 1st 2 x laps I was making progress, but slowly and I wasn't sold on being able to tick this anytime soon. 3rd lap I linked (on lead) to the bolts after the grade 26 Trad crack section. Had 1 fall before improving beta for this move. Then 2 more rests to the top, both of which were because I was getting pumped clipping off miniscule holds... But now I've found ways of clipping from above the bolts, off better holds! I should be 1-falling this soon. Psyched!

Classic Sport 25m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Tue 29th Mar '16
23 ** White Powder Warmup (To the 7th Bolt)

2 laps back-to-back as a warmup. A great pumpy way to get ready for something HARD at the Boneyard. Nice hard move at the end of this as well.

Very Good Sport 12m, 7 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Tue 29th Mar '16
Sun 27th Mar '16 - Bare Rock
Easter Rising Face
25 *** Easter Rising

I'm with Jed on this one: definitely solid 25, a brilliant route, and would make for a great tick, but it's an absolute mission to get to. Very cryptic hold-positions which made my Ground-up onsight attempt (with no chalk on the route) bloody hard work. Blew the link at about half height, then had falls at 3 sections (mostly due to not finding the crucial holds). Probably onsightable if there's chalk on it, but still bloody tough, and with no easy climbing in 40m. One of my favourite routes here

Mega Classic Sport 40m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Sun 27th Mar '16
Sat 26th Mar '16 - Ben Lomond
Denison Crag
23 *** Maxalon

After walking for 3 hours to Africa crag, before deciding it was too arctic there, we rapped into this to avoid the mank approach and 1st pitch. I led the money pitch (warmup) as a giant 60m pitch. Onsight to 40m (the last 1.5m of the crux) when I got a piece of gear stuck on my harness and hung for ages on crux holds to sort. Pumped-out a bit above, unable to hold my ringlocks in anymore. Damn! Brutal, strenuous and intimidating. Off-size everything for me. Committing through roof and above.

- with anon
Mega Classic Trad 100m Ben Lomond Paul Thomson
Sat 26th Mar '16
Fri 25th Mar '16 - Bare Rock
Easter Rising Face
27 ** Green Spandex

2 more laps this morning. This is a brutal warmup! Graded 27 originally, its probably more solid/hard 26. Might be 27 if you cant climb hard cracks. Good linkage on 2nd shot (2 falls - 1 more due to lack of commitment than difficulty - I was still scared up here today!), but this could be tough to tick. The crack is a somewhat crumbly at the back, but the rock on the headwall is immaculate and perfect. Why are all the climbs that suit me so damn inaccessible? I'll be back on lead next.

Very Good Sport 18m, 5 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Fri 25th Mar '16
27 ** Green Spandex

2 Investigatory Laps. What a mission it is to get to this climb! I don't often get scared Rope Soloing anymore, but the exposure, steepness and traversing nature of this powerful climb had me a bit freaked. 4 bolts in 18m of climbing is a bit crazy (especially considering the hyper-exposed position - this was more scary than The Totem Pole to me) but falls are into clean air. Pumpy, Strenuous, burly varied crack climbing. Good linkage on 2nd lap, but bad commitment from me on rope solo. Scared!)

Very Good Sport 18m, 5 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Thu 24th Mar '16
Thu 24th Mar '16 - Bare Rock
Rap-In Area between Boneyard and The Great Roof
25 ** Amber Allure (Amber Allure - Project Paul)

1 more lap just to make sure I've got the route dialled. To be honest, I'm still struggling with a hard move near the start, and with the epic pump-factor on the technical fingery-crimps through the top bulge... I can do the moves fine, but after 3 laps haven't actually linked it (on Rope Solo). This route has turned out to be harder and better than I originally expected. With the beta, it's probably only hard 25, but it would be a bloody hard onsight as the holds are hard to find with big moves

Very Good Sport 32m, 16 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Thu 24th Mar '16
25 ** Amber Allure (Amber Allure - Project Paul)

1 lap after cleaning the route and finishing bolting it. I put in a stack of bolts in this thing (more than I normally would for a route of this length) to facilitate dogging the route, and I'm glad that they ended up in precisely the right place. Quite tricky. Certainly solid 25, but not hard enough to be 26.

Very Good Sport 32m, 16 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Wed 23rd Mar '16
Mon 21st Mar '16 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
28 *** No Space in Time

Project shopping. Hard work getting to the top in full sun, with no chalk on anything (and slightly dirty from the recent floods). But I managed it, and also managed to sort all the sequences (and repeat them). Took some monster falls putting it together. Would be a tough link, but totally my style, and intriguing climbing. After the burly overhanging crack start, its extremely technical steep face climbing, and unrelenting to the anchors. I finished feeling utterly trashed! Trad gear still in.

Classic Sport 25m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Mon 21st Mar '16
24 ** Crack a Boner

3rd shot, placing gear (about 2min after punting an easy section ABOVE the crux on my 2nd shot). I didn't work anything on my Onsight attempt, and after making it through the burly, borderline dangerous crux section, I screwed up an easier move by forgetting about a crucial hold. Came down, rested for 2min, and went up for the send. Hard at the grade, and extremely strenuous, but really cool moves. I used 7 pieces of pro in 20m of climbing which made some exciting runouts! Sustained to the top.

Very Good Trad 20m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Mon 21st Mar '16
Sun 20th Mar '16 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
28 *** No Space in Time

Climbed to 2nd bolt after the crack before my belayer had to leave. Left my gear on it so I can have another look tomorrow. Probably solid trad 25 to the 1st bolt after the crack, then it gets thin, fingery and powerful. The rack listed in the ClimbTas guide might be great if youre dogging the gear in, but is fucking stupid if youre trying to push yourself on the onsight burn (bring cams 0.3-3 if you want to try onsight, and swap for wires on loweroff... the wires recommended are hard to place!

Very Good Sport 25m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Sun 20th Mar '16
26 ** Bad to the Bone

Finally. 2nd shot today (almost ticked it as a warmup, falling off the last hard move), and it was cruisy and controlled. 4th redpoint shot. 9th lap total (the initial 5 laps I hadnt worked out how to clip the post-crux draw and every lap ended there as I tried different things). Not classic, but fun, and very much not my style, so good to work on something that I struggle with.

Very Good Sport 15m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Sun 20th Mar '16
26 ** Bad to the Bone

4 more shots. 1st 2 was still trying to work out how to clip the draw after the crux (a fall skipping it almost put me on the ledge!). 3rd shot today was my 1st real redpoint attempt but I punted it on the last hard move, and by the 4th I was just tired. Climbs like a Nowra power-endurance route on slippery, fingery holds.

Very Good Sport 15m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Sat 19th Mar '16
Thu 17th Mar '16 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
26 ** Bad to the Bone

3 shots. First was a write-off attempt with damp rock and no clue where the crucial holds were (I took a lot of big falls finding them). By the end of the 3rd shot, I'd finally sorted out all the moves with good linkage (and my crux: the 5th bolt clip!)... now I just need to come back feeling fresh for the send. Very intense, despite only being about 10m of actual climbing. Much more full-on and involved than you might think from the ground... and much more fun. Powerful.

Very Good Sport 15m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Thu 17th Mar '16
Tue 15th Mar '16 - Bare Rock
Rap-In Area between Boneyard and The Great Roof
25 ** Amber Allure (Amber Allure - Project Paul)

Working lap putting together this "easy exit" pitch from Orange Crush ledge, while still aiming to make it quality. Spent a lot of time climbing into dead ends (or lines that "went" but were extremely difficult) before piecing it together. Feels about gr25? Sections of good climbing. Shame about the halfway ledge.

Very Good Sport 32m, 16 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Tue 15th Mar '16
Wed 9th Mar '16 - Bare Rock
26 ** Influence of a Drowsy God

YeeHaw! Finally. 3rd shot today, on my last attempt before the sun overran the wall. 1st and 2nd shots were both new highpoints, but I was getting tired and wasnt sure I could link it on the 3rd... but I did! Focusing on breathing, climbing quickly, and with Godhead's Lament by Opeth blaring in the background was the key. Like a longer version of The Reality Dysfunction, but with more sections of bad holds and actual technique requires. Now im off to buy beer.

Very Good Sport 35m, 16 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Wed 9th Mar '16
Sun 6th Mar '16 - Bare Rock
18 to 21 * Rainbow in the Dark

Seconding Captain Mullet on the 1st Ascent. All pitches clean on Second. Some dubious rock and a bit dirty for now (it needs a good dousing of rain to wash the dust off), but some sections of enjoyable and engaging climbing, and at a relatively tame grade.

- with anon
Very Good Sport 140m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Sun 6th Mar '16
26 ** Influence of a Drowsy God (Influence of a Drowsy God - PROJECT PAUL)

3 more VERY early morning shots (before the sun), with improvement on each lap, but no tick. High point is ALMOST sticking the 2nd last crux (with the hardest crux still to come, but with the only mega jug on this route between me and it... IF id stuck the last move of the 2nd last crux). So farking pumpy, my arms are on fire for 20min after each shot.

Very Good Sport 35m, 16 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Sun 6th Mar '16
Sat 5th Mar '16 - Bare Rock
26 ** Influence of a Drowsy God (Influence of a Drowsy God - PROJECT PAUL)

End of day shot placing the draws... didnt go so well and I had 5 falls to the anchors. Damn. Really struggled on this today. =(

Very Good Sport 35m, 16 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Sat 5th Mar '16
Sat 5th Mar '16 - Ben Lomond
Local Loser
24 *** Gerry's New Route

Top Rope Lap on this Project. Clean 1st go. Definitely gr24. Rather bold, but not dangerous. I need Gerry to Send this so I can score the true tick (he offered me an attempt at the FA, but having been on it, I think its too good to take from Gerry after all his effort on it). Ludicrously steep, with some extremely insecure hard stemming leading to outrageous steep climbing up an overhanging fang of rock. 3 stars for sure.

Good Trad 45m Ben Lomond Paul Thomson
Sat 5th Mar '16
20 *** Hidden Secrets

Bloody great route... not much to look at from below, but absolute quality within. Incredibly steep for Ben Lomond. Fun stemming start, big moves through steepness, airy and intimidating traverse into more stemming, then another airy traverse onto an arete followed by an enjoyable finale. Very worthwhile.

- with anon
Classic Trad 40m Ben Lomond Paul Thomson
Sat 5th Mar '16
Wed 2nd Mar '16 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress
25 *** Neon God

Didnt plan on another shot after blowing the onsight above the crux, but my climbing partner couldnt get to the top so I had to get the draws back. At 6pm, after almost 200m of climbing today I repeated P1 clean, but fell off on the last move of the crux, utterly destroyed, climbing terribly and battling every move until I fell. Clean to the top after the 1 fall. Never had a chance, but was a good fight for training.

Very Good Sport 50m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Wed 2nd Mar '16
27 ** Pleasant Screams

P1 only. 2 shots. Flashed to 1 hold below the infamous wet hold (which was just spoogy on that lap), 1 more fall above, then to the top). 2nd shot clean to the wet hold WHICH WAS NOW WET and seeping! Aaand off I came. Clean to the top from there. Good climbing, thin, technical, powerful and sustained on micro footers. But that famously wet hold is a real party pooper, and the 7th bolt is in a retarded position (as others have noted here). Clipping the anchors is also weird. Still fun though.

Very Good Sport 55m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Wed 2nd Mar '16
25 *** Neon God

Onsight attempt as a giant single pitch in the full sun. Fell off AFTER the crux when I followed the natural line of holds out left (there was a braille trail of chalk going everywhere!) and ended up off route. Foot slipped trying to get back on the line... GUTTED! Went to the top after the fall. Good, technical thinness on interesting features but kind of contrived to force the harder climbing (on both P1 and post-crux of P2). Not classic, but still a thoroughly enjoyable 50m of climbing.

Very Good Sport 50m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Wed 2nd Mar '16
25 *** Neon God

Onsight P1 as part of an onsight attempt on the whole route as 1 giant pitch. P1 on its own is great climbing on great rock, but far too contrived and too much of an eliminate to ever be a true 3-star classic. Disappointing considering its rep. Rad crack and flake features with thin face in between.

Very Good Sport 50m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Wed 2nd Mar '16
22 Alex's Thing

As one big pitch via CSTS. Finished up the last few metres of CSTS to create a harder arete finish (rather than the doddly original finish). Not a classic, but enjoyable enough climbing (makes a good warmup) with an interesting crux section up a box-groove and overlap.

Very Good Mixed 40m, 6 Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Wed 2nd Mar '16
Sun 28th Feb '16 - Bare Rock
26 ** Influence of a Drowsy God (Influence of a Drowsy God - PROJECT PAUL)

5 laps today on Top Rope Solo. Best effort was with 1 fall on the last hard move at 30m of climbing... damn! So. Bloody. Pumpy. Mostly good finger jugs (with some actual jugs) the whole way, but pumpy enough that sticking the powerful cruxes is a real test of Will and Fortitude. That final sequence is gonna be a killer on redpoint. My forearms hurt from the pump by the end of this. A contender for the steepest route in Tas.

Very Good Sport 35m, 16 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Sun 28th Feb '16
Sat 27th Feb '16 - Cluan Tier
23 *** Cluecified

With Isaac. Pitch 1 (21) & Pitch 2 (23) only, Onsight both pitches. So much better (and outrageous) than it looks from the ground. P1 starts up a pleasant corner, but soon becomes reminiscent of The Spartan at Piddo (awkwardly underclinging a steep block as you traverse forever delicately, toeing the lip of an undercut). Rad exposure! P2 is an extremely technical face with a powerful steep start, and sustained strange moves above. Didnt do P3 as it looked pretty average.

Classic Sport 85m Cluan Tier Paul Thomson
Sat 27th Feb '16
23 *** Cluedo

A great, technical, thin and sustained line. A bit mossy due to lack of traffic (and I was scrubbing holds and footers on lead before entering the insecure top crux), bit even some greenery cant rob this of classic status. Psyched for the true (unchalked, unworn) onsight.

Classic Sport 40m Cluan Tier Paul Thomson
Sat 27th Feb '16
23 ** Blue Suede Clues

Pumpy, but on pretty good holds, nice rock, and with only a brief cruxy section. Probably more 22 than 23. No classic route, but worth a star (and would be super-popular in the Blueys).

Very Good Sport 18m Cluan Tier Paul Thomson
Sat 27th Feb '16
Wed 24th Feb '16 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Central Buttress
18 *** Third Bird

With Alex. Clean 2nd P1 (straightforward easy crack climbing); Onsight P2 (cool moves to the roof, committing fun to turn the roof, then entertaining climbing above up the corner and face.) Worth the effort for P2 alone.

Very Good Trad 89m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Wed 24th Feb '16
Wed 24th Feb '16 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Central Buttress
20 *** Space Cowboy

With Alex. Probably better than P2 of Battle Cruiser or Starship Trooper. Fun start on interesting features culminating in some fun face and crack climbing. Maybe a bit of an eliminate.

Classic Trad Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Wed 24th Feb '16
18 *** Battle Cruiser

With Alex. P1 only. Finished P2 via Space Cowboy. A rad first pitch with entertaining moves through the rooflet and climbing throughout. Totally worth a lap.

Classic Trad 74m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Wed 24th Feb '16
Sun 21st Feb '16 - Bare Rock
18 to 21 * Rainbow in the Dark (Rainbow in the Dark - Pitch 1)

First Repeat... About 20min after the First Ascent. A fun easy ramble, which will be totally worthwhile once the drill-dust washes off. Some easy slab, some nice stemming, and a bit of juggy steepness on pretty good rock. Maybe the best easy pitch here? Hopefully the rest of the Multi is this worthwhile.

Very Good Sport 140m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Sun 21st Feb '16
Sun 21st Feb '16 - Bare Rock
Rap-In Area between Boneyard and The Great Roof
*** Obsidian Obsession - Project Paul

2 shots on lead. 5th day on and in the sun... Not great conditions. 1st shot wasn't too terrible, and I sorted out some of the hard clips. Second shot was linkage to the crux, a bunch of falling at the crux, and linkage to the top. Can I call it Hard 26M1 and go home, now? Perfect conditions are about the become the deciding factor for a clean tick, I think. Obsidian DEpression, at this rate.

Mega Classic Sport 25m, 11 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Sun 21st Feb '16
*** Obsidian Obsession - Project Paul

3 laps over 2 sessions (morning sesh and night sesh, avoiding the sun). Morning was just more refinement. Adding a bolt to the top runout and scrubbing the remaining dirt (from the floods) off the climb (for aesthetic reasons) Night sesh was entirely spent doing the last 2 moves of the crux over and over, trying to train my muscles to know the moves Intimately... with mixed success.

Mega Classic Sport 25m, 11 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Sat 20th Feb '16
Fri 19th Feb '16 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
27 *** Atomic Vampires

2 shots. Spent most of the first lap cleaning the mud/dirt from the recent floods to make this climbable, and re-chalking, re-ticking everything. 2nd lap was the real "working" lap, and got all the sequences sorted (though nothing about this climb is a giveaway!) except for the final move of the crux... I'm not sure how to do it and the blazing sun foreshortened my efforts. Powerful, surprisingly sustained, and with no easy climbing in 15m. Might be one to come back to (with some crux beta).

Very Good Sport 15m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Fri 19th Feb '16
23 ** Fire in the sky

Yet another repeat. The easiest it's felt yet (despite never remembering a single move from the previous lap). Still just damn good climbing, despite some potentially loose holds.

Classic Sport 30m, 16 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Fri 19th Feb '16
Thu 18th Feb '16 - Bare Rock
Rap-In Area between Boneyard and The Great Roof
*** Obsidian Obsession - Project Paul

2 more shots. My worst effort yet this trip. Was already feeling tired, de-psyched and rushed (after finding my usual 4WD track to the top of Bare Rock was completely washed away from the floods, and spending 2 hours driving around before finding another) and just got more and more frustrated. Damn. =(

Mega Classic Sport 25m, 11 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Thu 18th Feb '16
Wed 17th Feb '16 - Bare Rock
26 ** Influence of a Drowsy God (Influence of a Drowsy God - PROJECT PAUL)

Working lap before bolting. Another 9m more steepness (after Godhead's Lament) up the underside of the God Monster arch... sooo much steepness. Mostly good holds, but steep and a bit powerful. Perhaps a bit sharp at times. Did I mention that its steep?

Very Good Sport 35m, 16 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Wed 17th Feb '16
Sun 14th Feb '16 - Ben Lomond
Denison Crag
21 *** Aqualung

Onsight all 6 pitches. P1 and P6 are average, but not unpleasant. The "crux" P2 felt about 19/20 with hands-off rests every 2 moves as you stem up the corner; P3 had some fun laybacking; I combined P4 and P5 into a 60m megapitch of awesome face climbing and stemming, with some engaging jamming through steepness at the top. This pitch felt like Ben Lomond 20/21. Not a megaclassic as there is still a fair bit of loose rock on it, but every pitch has value and its a great day out.

- with Vladi Eileen
Classic Trad 180m Ben Lomond Paul Thomson
Sun 14th Feb '16
Sat 13th Feb '16 - Hillwood (private land)
Rock Of Ages & Surrounds Twin Tree Face
22 ** Living Sacrifice

2nd shot. Possibly the most sandbagged 22 I've been on in Aus. Solid/hard 23 for sure. The hardest I pulled all day by about 2 grades. Punchy, thin, sharp climbing on less than perfect rock (for the area). Don't believe the crap in the guidebook about this being one of the best at its grade. Even ignoring the sandbag its pretty average.

Good Sport 18m Hillwood (private land) Paul Thomson
Sat 13th Feb '16
Sat 13th Feb '16 - Hillwood (private land)
Rock Of Ages & Surrounds Rock Of Ages
23 *** Ancient of Days

2nd shot. Blew the Onsight with an unfortunate foot slip while questing around at the crux... damn, I suck. Cruised it (and loved it) 2nd shot. Brilliant steep stemming on perfect rock, with a profound and pumpy crux.

Classic Sport 15m Hillwood (private land) Paul Thomson
Sat 13th Feb '16
Sat 13th Feb '16 - Hillwood (private land)
Matto Grosso The Dungeon
23 ** Dr Pepper

Fun. A crimpy bouldery start for 4 bolts leads to easier, pumpy slopers to the top. Fun climbing but over quickly.

Very Good Sport 12m Hillwood (private land) Paul Thomson
Sat 13th Feb '16
Sat 13th Feb '16 - Hillwood (private land)
Matto Grosso The Chessboard
18 * One Perfect Day

Onsight solo. Quite good. The shouldery sloper moves around the blob were exciting without a rope.

Very Good Sport 15m Hillwood (private land) Paul Thomson
Sat 13th Feb '16
18 * Nothing Left to Give

My favourite route on this wall. Great moves involving body position and footwork.

Very Good Sport 15m Hillwood (private land) Paul Thomson
Sat 13th Feb '16
18 Ligament Laxity

Good climbing. Thin and technical. My 2nd fav climb on this wall.

Very Good Sport 15m Hillwood (private land) Paul Thomson
Sat 13th Feb '16
16 Revelation Six Sixteen

Onsight solo. Cant complain. Fun final moves.

Very Good Sport 15m Hillwood (private land) Paul Thomson
Sat 13th Feb '16
16 Enviromental Decay

Onsight solo. Enjoyable middle section.

Good Sport 6m Hillwood (private land) Paul Thomson
Sat 13th Feb '16
14 Like Nectar for Butterflies

Onsight solo. Short but enjoyable. Topped out.

Good Sport 12m Hillwood (private land) Paul Thomson
Sat 13th Feb '16
12 Climbing Date

Onsight solo. Pleasant easy climbing.

Good Sport 8m Hillwood (private land) Paul Thomson
Sat 13th Feb '16
15 The Butterfly Climb

Onsight solo. Okay.

Good Sport 8m Hillwood (private land) Paul Thomson
Sat 13th Feb '16
Thu 11th Feb '16 - Ben Lomond
Robin's Buttress
20 *** Rigaudon

Onsight all 3 pitches. Utterly hideous offwidth P1 (I solo'd 1/3rd the way up it before getting scared and getting a side-runner in Ramadan to protect it and continue up -I couldnt have gotten pro in the offwidth until gaining the chimney proper at 2/3rds height). P2 is an enjoyable marathon of laybacking and stemming on spaced gear, with the usual Ben Lomond Shale-rock junk in the last 15m to ruin the experience. P3 is a brief jam-crack ramble on okay rock.

- with Vladi Eileen
Classic Trad 70m Ben Lomond Paul Thomson
Thu 11th Feb '16
17 *** Barbe Di Vendetta

Onsight all pitches. Linked P2 & P3 into a 58m pitch (not recommended). Brilliant, sustained and varied jam crack climbing, but marred by the top 20m of hideously loose "wheat-Bix climbing". Would be a mega classic if you could avoid the top 20m.

- with Vladi Eileen
Classic Trad 90m Ben Lomond Paul Thomson
Thu 11th Feb '16
Wed 10th Feb '16 - Bare Rock
Supernaut Face
24 *** Neon Knights

Stoked! The best of the climbs on Supernaut face. A full grade harder than Supernaut, and 1/2 grade harder than Into the Void. Very sustained all the way to the top. Bouldery start, then some technical thiness, to a desparate roof-turn, to more technical, wandery thinness, to a steep water-polished technical bridging finale up an overhanging V-groove, with a final easy (but exposed) roof to turn. Memorable! Might be nails 24 for the ultimate dialed red-point attempt, but 25 for onsight.

Classic Sport 45m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Wed 10th Feb '16
24 *** Supernaut

A brutal warmup. 3rd shot, I guess. Fell off at the 2nd bolt on Onsight (didn't find the hold in the seam)... Came straight back down and went up again immediately, and fell off again. Came down, rested, then went to the top, Onsighting from where I fell up. Damn. Very cruxy bouldery start, Easing to about 22 at the 5th bolt (through the funky technical traverse), then 20/21 up the long, exposed, thin arete. A brilliant excursion to the top of Bare Rock.

Classic Sport 45m, 16 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Wed 10th Feb '16
Wed 10th Feb '16 - Bare Rock
19 * Tomorrows Dream

Repeat. Seconding Vladi on all 3 pitches. Climbed the original (gr18 Mixed) Pitch 2 this time. P1 and P2 are okay (I think the harder bolted version of P2 is better), but P3 is still one of the best easy-grade pitches of any multi I've been on in Australia, and worth climbing up to in its own right.

- with Vladi Eileen
Very Good Sport 100m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Wed 10th Feb '16
Mon 8th Feb '16 - Coles Bay
Hazards Cliffs
16 *** Sealevel Traverse

Solo'd all the section until past the swim, but the recent megastorm meant an easy slab (after all the graded climbing) was too wet and muddy to solo, so we did some very bolt roped-traversing. Couldn't get past a section following at all, tried to traverse above, and got stuck bush-bashing for about 3 hours trying to get back down to sea level. A great adventure with great friends. A few bits of actual climbing, lots of dodgy scrambling, ocean swimming, and getting lost... Fun in hindsight?

- with Vladi Eileen
Good Unknown Coles Bay Paul Thomson
Mon 8th Feb '16
Sun 7th Feb '16 - Coles Bay
Hazards Cliffs Star Factory
24 * Chris the Porn King

2 shots. Onsight to the traverse (surprise surprise). 2nd shot I cruised through the crux, but discovered the hard way that the bloody bolt at the end of the traverse puts the quickdraw ON the hold at the end of the traverse, and despite my best efforts I couldn't move it out of the way before falling off. Bloody frustrating!!! I then went clean to the top from there. Not as classic as other stuff at the Star Factory, but unique climbing (for here) and also pretty rad powerful, shouldery moves.

Very Good Sport 15m, 6 Coles Bay Paul Thomson
Sun 7th Feb '16

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 1,000 ascents