More than 1,000 Ascents by Paul Thomson

 
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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 1,000 ascents

Grade Route Quality Style Crag Climber Date
Fri 5th Feb '16 - Bare Rock
Rap-In Area between Boneyard and The Great Roof
*** Obsidian Obsession - Project Paul

2 more laps. Heartbreaking to rap the line today and see that the RECORD BREAKING rainfall in the recent storm (that flooded Fingal) has deposited dirt and mud over the entire climb. Many hours spent scrubbing (more than I did when I first developed it) tobring the holds back up to speck. I have the climbing dialed to the crux. And the crux dialed (though its still at my limit in isolation) up until the last move. Now I just need to get that last move perfected so I can do it more consistently.

Mega Classic Sport 25m, 9 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Fri 5th Feb '16
Thu 4th Feb '16 - Bare Rock
Bare Rock Bouldering The Committing Face Boulder
V3 ** Unknown V3 Committing Face

Committing! Thin moves all the way up above a bad landing (very scary since I didn't have a mat), with a tricky cross-under move on slopers near the top, and some looseness at the top to make things really exciting.

Very Good Boulder 4m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Thu 4th Feb '16
V3 ** Unknown V3 Rooflet

Really cool steep climbing on jugs at the start, then some extremely grippy slopers to turn the lip, and nice jugs to topout. Probably soft at V3.

Very Good Boulder 3m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Thu 4th Feb '16
Thu 4th Feb '16 - Bare Rock
Bare Rock Bouldering The Slab Boulder
V0 * The Slab - Left Hand Side

Not hard, but certainly exciting without a mat. Pleasant easy-grade slabbing up this highball boulder with a slightly harder start than it's right-hand neighbour.

Very Good Boulder 4m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Thu 4th Feb '16
V0 * The Slab - Right Hand Side

Not hard, but certainly exciting without a mat. Pleasant easy-grade slabbing up this highball boulder.

Very Good Boulder 4m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Thu 4th Feb '16
V6 ** Unknown V6

Working the moves. Can do all the moves in 2-sections (except the topout, which needs an epic scrub) but linking them could be challenging. Powerful compression moves on a steep-ish face. Quite enjoyable.

Very Good Boulder 3m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Thu 4th Feb '16
Thu 4th Feb '16 - Bare Rock
The Block
24 * Blockhead - Left Hand Variant

2nd shot. Very sustained and bouldery until you gain the top slab. Even on the tick I found the opening 5 bolts quite intense and tricky. Extremely fingers and thin. I had to skip the 4th bolt as I couldn't clip it on link. Worth a lap if you get caught in the sun on Bare Rock, as its in the shade until 2pm.

Very Good Sport 10m, 7 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Thu 4th Feb '16
25 * Isaac's Route

Heh, the boulder problem start is utterly desperate. I literally couldn't do the final move of the start despite a fair bit of effort. The route itself (without the move I can't do) would be punchy 24. Short, but intense until you gain the slab. Quite enjoyable in a bouldery kind of way.

Good Sport 10m, 5 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Thu 4th Feb '16
Thu 4th Feb '16 - Bare Rock
25 ** Godhead's Lament

Rad. Once again the pre-climb warmup at "home" (read: my van) works... Sent 1st shot today, felt pumped but controlled. Maybe just soft-ish/middle-tier 25? If you ignore the easy-ish but pleasant 1st third (and don't contrive yourself to avoid the corner), once you commit to the face it's all-on to the top with some powerful, pumpy steepness.

Very Good Sport 25m, 11 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Thu 4th Feb '16
Wed 3rd Feb '16 - Bare Rock
25 ** Godhead's Lament (Godhead's Lament - PROJECT PAUL)

2 more laps Top Rope Solo... juuuust to make sure I had it dialled. First didnt feel hard, but I had no power and fell off a few times (not a route to warm up on). 2nd felt calm and controlled and was entirely clean. Cool! Now for the Send tomorrow........

Very Good Sport 25m, 11 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Wed 3rd Feb '16
25 ** Godhead's Lament (Godhead's Lament - PROJECT PAUL)

2 laps Top Rope Solo. Just practicing the route while I wait for the weather to sort itself out, and a belayer to arrive (so I can do the FA). 1st lap was a bit of a dogs breakfast as I refined the hard moves, the 2nd lap just had a single fall on the first hard move when I messed up the sequence, but linked from below that sequence (though all the hard climbing) to the top after the fall. I think solid/hard 25 is about right.

Very Good Sport 25m, 11 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Tue 2nd Feb '16
25 ** Godhead's Lament (Godhead's Lament - PROJECT PAUL)

1 lap Top Rope Solo to investigate the line before bolting it. Extremely steep for Bare Rock, with an extremely powerful and pumpy upper-half. Probably Hard 25 (by Bare Rock grading). There is an obvious continuation that keeps traversing under the arch rather than joining God Monster... I'll have to have a look at it later.

Very Good Sport 25m, 11 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Mon 1st Feb '16
Wed 27th Jan '16 - The Paradiso
27 *** Expendable Youth

2 laps. Brilliant and tough. Climbing the corner and not the arete at the top is surely off route and you dont earn the grade if you do it. Aside from the 3rd bolt (was the FA TRYING to find the worst placement on the wall for it?), this is a perfect line for me. Committing, bouldery start to pumpy steepness. A thin, fingery powerful crux and more steepness, enjoyable corner, burly traverse and slopey, steep prow finale. 2nd shot - 1 fall mid-crux, then from below crux to the prow and 2nd fall.

Mega Classic Sport 27m The Paradiso Paul Thomson
Wed 27th Jan '16
22 *** Too Tall Oxen

Repeat. A lot better than I remember it, though quite tough for the grade. Great, classy steep climbing the entire way.

Classic Sport 32m The Paradiso Paul Thomson
Wed 27th Jan '16
21 ** Shock Wave

Repeat. Up-climbed and down-climbed for a warmup... I definately got warm. Great!

Very Good Sport 13m, 5 The Paradiso Paul Thomson
Wed 27th Jan '16
Tue 26th Jan '16 - Bare Rock
27 *** Ride the Lightning

P1 - Pink Point back on 6th Mar 2015 (jumaared it today); P2 & P3 (linked as 55m pitch - Onsight; P4 - Pink Point (2nd shot. Onsight from 3rd bolt up). Now just the 27 pitch to go to tick this entire climb. P1 is classic steep face; P2 is bouldery slab (22?); P3 is amazing 40m sustained slab on perfect rock (probably 20/21); P4 is a fun bolted powerful boulder problem (25/26) past 3 bolts, then steep 22. Proud to have done the 1st repeat of all these pitches so far, as this is classic!

- with Rob Medlicott
Classic Sport 200m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Tue 26th Jan '16
Mon 25th Jan '16 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
25 *** Passchendaele

2nd shot today. 4th total. Wanted to do this placing all gear, but after 1st shot I couldnt be bothered with epic of stripping it. On send I placed 3 bits of pro (2 in hard terrain). All gear easy to place except crux wire (which I would skip for redpoint now I know the moves). Stoked to tick this, even in less than perfect trad style. So overhanging and brutal, with an awesome powerful steep fingerlocking crux. Damn solid at the grade.

Classic Trad 50m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Mon 25th Jan '16
Mon 25th Jan '16 - Bare Rock
26 * Bisso of Orange

Only the 1st 3 pitches (too wet today for a big multi) Similar to Black Fire (maybe a bit less fragile) but with utterly abysmal bolting. Climbed P1 and P2 as a giant 60m pitch. Rob then moved the belay to the end of the easy P1, and I continued up P3 (to make another 60m pitch) before rapping. P1 is a slightly loose, super runout access doddle. P2 is a rather hard, technical slab. P3 is an enjoyable steep roof wander. I broke a hold off P3 2m off belay on easy ground and fell back to the belay

- with Rob Medlicott
Very Good Sport 180m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Mon 25th Jan '16
23 *** Mornings Minion

Repeat. This time clean as a warmup placing draws, unchalked and damp after the rain. Hard, but rewarding. Has cleaned up really well in the last year, and now is a true technical classic.

Classic Sport 30m, 14 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Mon 25th Jan '16
Sun 24th Jan '16 - Bare Rock
Rap-In Area between Boneyard and The Great Roof
*** Obsidian Obsession - Project Paul

1 more early morning lap. Quite a brutal warmup. Linked to my equal high point (into the first few moves of the crux). Did the crux boulder problem (V6) in 3 overlapping sections. Then went to the top in one push (something I'd never done before). So, I guess I can call this my best linkage yet. MAYBE it's possible?

Mega Classic Sport 25m, 9 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Sun 24th Jan '16
*** Obsidian Obsession - Project Paul

3 more shots. Came up with a new sequence at the crux which was slightly easier, eventually broke off the new hold, so now I'm back to the old sequence. Making some progress with the crux, but it's slow work, and by the end of 3 laps I'm so tired I can barely walk the 100m to my car. Consistently getting INTO the crux from the belay, so at least that's something.

Mega Classic Sport 25m, 9 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Sat 23rd Jan '16
Thu 21st Jan '16 - Ben Lomond
Pavement Bluff
23 *** Road to Ballyshannon

Linked P1 and P2 into a 50m pitch. Very demanding and sustained. Extremely thin technical bridging on spaced TINY wires, leading to hard moves bridging past a rooflet, and hard thin jamming up an incipient seam to a pumpy fist-crack finale. A true classic. I was whimpering at one point anticipating a monster gear-ripping fall. Super-stoked to fight through this one for the Onsight. I accidentally went TOO direct at the top of P3 for an FA X-rated unprotected face-climbing finale.

- with Gerry Narkowicz
Classic Trad 80m Ben Lomond Paul Thomson
Thu 21st Jan '16
22 R The Howitzer Arete - Open Project

I top-roped this to see if it was worth the risk for the First Ascent. 3-star positions, 2-star climbing, MINUS 2 stars for rock quality. I'd heard a lot about this great "unclimbed bold line of Ben Lomond", but the rock is the worst I've climbed in Tassie. Think: dry wheat-bix on a blunt arete. The gear is extremely spaced (the top crux is 6m above the last piece of pro) and on average 5 out of 10 for quality. I was agonising over whether to lead it for the FA, but the weather had other ideas.

Average Trad 60m Ben Lomond Paul Thomson
Wed 20th Jan '16
19 ** Blitzkrieg

Rapped in and avoided the rubbish P1; Clean 2nd P2; Onsight P3. A great 2nd pitch of extremely burly, old-school wide-hands to fists up a sustained, slightly steep, thrutchy corner system. Unfortunately a bit dirty with a few bits of scraggly vegetation to ruin the masochistic experience. Probably gr20 by Ben Lomond standards.

- with Gerry Narkowicz
Very Good Trad 80m Ben Lomond Paul Thomson
Wed 20th Jan '16
22 *** Howitzer

Linked P2 and P3 into a 60m megapitch. Intimidating, demanding, varied, sustained and tough (even by Ben Lomond standards). An absolutely brilliant route with a well earned reputation as a Test Piece of The Ben. I was super-psyched to Onsight this with the First Ascensionist belaying me. Thin, technical face; pumpy laybacking, stemming, and tenuous climbing up thin-to-fused cracks.

- with Gerry Narkowicz
Classic Trad 80m Ben Lomond Paul Thomson
Wed 20th Jan '16
Sat 16th Jan '16 - Mount Brown Main Face
24 *** Talk is Cheap

Amazing exposure, position and moments of brilliant climbing. Marred by the worst rock I've climbed in Tassie (choss, dirt and flakiness), and some contrived bolting to force inferior climbing. Led P2, P3 & P4 (Link), P6, and P7 & P8 (link). 2nd Clean all others. Fell of on the last hard moves of P2 grabbing rubble instead of rock on the final throw (needs another bolt, took a bad whip on the slab)... I went Direct (felt 25), but chalk shows most people going way out right to avoid the crux??

- with Gerry Narkowicz
Very Good Trad 210m Mount Brown Main Face Paul Thomson
Sat 16th Jan '16
Fri 15th Jan '16 - Bare Rock
Rap-In Area between Boneyard and The Great Roof
*** Obsidian Obsession - Project Paul

Day 2: 2 laps. Much time spent fine-tuning the crux. Almost got it sorted (in isolation) and can sometimes link most of it. New highpoint linkage, to the 2nd move of the main crux from the belay... thats something at least.

Mega Classic Sport 25m, 9 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Fri 15th Jan '16
*** Obsidian Obsession - Project Paul

The siege begins! Day 1: 2 laps... disheartening. Can't even touch the crux. Feels impossible. Dialled the rest of the route. Would be 27 without the crux. 8m 25 into V5/V6 1st crux, into V3/V4 2nd crux, into solid V4 3rd crux, into final 6m gr22 to anchors. Damn. =(

Mega Classic Sport 25m, 9 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Thu 14th Jan '16
Mon 11th Jan '16 - The Paradiso
25 *** Sultan Of Sweat

2nd shot. One of the hardest 25s I've been on. With a powerful V4 crux at the 2nd bolt, and stacked grade 23 sequences all the way to the anchors (that it would be easy to fall off). I struggled at the crux on Onsight, but kept together the rest of it... 2nd lap was more solid throughout but the final technical face climbing is quite the challenging finale. Brilliant!

Classic Sport 32m, 12 The Paradiso Paul Thomson
Mon 11th Jan '16
22 * Sponge Bob

Repeat. Considering there was no chalk on it today, this felt much easier and less bouldery than I remember it being. Having said that, I DID still slip off a wet jug while cruising this time. Underclings!

Very Good Sport 12m The Paradiso Paul Thomson
Mon 11th Jan '16
Sun 10th Jan '16 - Fortescue Bay
The Moai
16 The Moai Eascape.

Repeat. With Scotty Wearin. Lead as a giant 60m pitch... Though the rope drag isnt too bad, a fall on the gr16 pitch will put you back on the ledge for sure with rope stretch and slack, so I don't recommend it. Not too terrible as far as Exit Climbs go.

Average Trad 60m Fortescue Bay Paul Thomson
Sun 10th Jan '16
24 *** Ancient Astronaught

Repeat. As 1 giant pitch (again). Not clean today, but only 1 fall right at the end of the main crux on the Alzheimer's Onsight, so im pretty happy, considering how much fine-tuning effort went into putting it together for the tick a year ago. Very sequency and a bit broken up, but still classic climbing. Hard at the grade.

Classic Sport 35m Fortescue Bay Paul Thomson
Sun 10th Jan '16
22 *** Blunt instrument linked into Burning spear p2

Repeat. Good to get this one clean again Retro Flash as its quite hard at the grade. P1 is nails at 20 but magnificent climbing, P2 starts of brilliant but becomes a contrived eliminate (to climb direct) at the end. Still a damn good climb.

Classic Trad 35m Fortescue Bay Paul Thomson
Sun 10th Jan '16
18 * Burning Spear p1

Only climbed this because it was the only route on the Moai I hadn't ticked. Not worth the effort. Okay traddy chimney, crack and face climbing, but dirty, friable, and dank.

Good Trad 20m Fortescue Bay Paul Thomson
Sun 10th Jan '16
18 *** Sacred Site

Repeat. With Scotty Wearin. Led doddly P1, clean 2nd P2. Still a bloody great classic and the best value route on the Moai!

Classic Mixed 30m, 2 Fortescue Bay Paul Thomson
Sun 10th Jan '16
Sat 9th Jan '16 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Teardrop Gully
26 *** The Colour of Magic

Fought so hard for the pure onsight and came so close, but finally fell at the last bolt amidst a sea of lichen, dirt and broken holds. Heh, maybe 1 star at most, this thing is too dirty and friable to be a 3-star route, and the 30m death scramble to get to it doesn't help. The trad start isnt too bad, and there are some genuinely fun (and desperate) arete and face moves... but the bad outweighs the good on this.

Good Mixed 25m, 7 Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Sat 9th Jan '16
Sat 9th Jan '16 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Avalanche Couloir Area Avalanche Couloir
21 ** Terra Nullis

Bloody oath... 21 going on 23... the crux of this thing is the closest I've come to falling off an arete below gr25 this trip. Quite sustained with lots of hard moves, but a very pronounced and HARD crux. Unlike most Organ Pipes aretes, this one is all slopers, baby. Leave those crimping fingers at home.

Very Good Sport 30m, 9 Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Sat 9th Jan '16
Sat 9th Jan '16 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Avalanche Couloir Area University Buttress
17 *** Chancellor Direct

Absolutely CLASSY well-protected and varied trad climbing. I climbed this as a giant 60m pitch placing 8 bits of pro in total which made it an amazing and speedy warmup with no rope drag. Classic.

Classic Trad 60m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Sat 9th Jan '16
Wed 6th Jan '16 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge
Duck Reach Traffic Fine Buttress
28 ** Road to War

Made it to to the 3rd bolt (incl. the cock-around trad start) on Onsight, then dogfest to the 2nd last bolt on the route. Couldn't stick the moves to the last bolt and couldn't pull/cheat past them to investigate the upper crux sequence. Eventually got tired of whipping trying to figure it out, and bailed. Probably better to climb Long Knife and rap-inspect this climb, as despite being utterly spectacular to behold (and feat. some rad climbing) it's rather dirty (yellow moss) and not dog-able.

Very Good Mixed 28m, 8 Launceston (Cataract) Gorge Paul Thomson
Wed 6th Jan '16
Wed 6th Jan '16 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge
Duck Reach Sawsea Buttress
18 * Skidrow

Bloody oath, this is a bit full-on for an 18. Started via Short and Sweet and finished via this climb. I didn't have any big gear so the offwidth finale (comparatively easy) was rather exciting. Worthwhile and better than it looks. But tough at the grade.

Very Good Trad 25m Launceston (Cataract) Gorge Paul Thomson
Wed 6th Jan '16
23 Short and Sweet

A 6m crack boulder-problem. I went ground-up for the Onsight, but fell off on the last hard move (I didn't trust my smeared feet and couldn't make the move). Gear is easy to place, and it's not bad for a short route.

Good Trad 8m Launceston (Cataract) Gorge Paul Thomson
Wed 6th Jan '16
23 ** Lethal Injection

2nd shot. Rarely climbed and with a counter-intuitive bouldery crux... I had no hope onsighting this as a warmup. Pretty good, and less contrived than it looks. A rad bouldery crux at the first bolts sets the ball rolling, just in time to join Deathrow at its rather exciting crux.

Very Good Mixed 20m, 5 Launceston (Cataract) Gorge Paul Thomson
Wed 6th Jan '16
Tue 5th Jan '16 - Township Creek
26 *** Fireball

2 shots. 1st was to reequip, rechalk, scrub dirty holds and try and remember the complex crux sequence. 2nd was the Send attempt, but I had a foot slip on the last move of the crux and circumcised my right fingertips in the fall. Pulled back on and went to the top. The route would probably go in another shot or two, but I just didnt want to even touch those 2 righthand razorblade holds again (probably the sharpest holds ive held in Tassie). I agree with Jed's climb breakdown below entirely. =(

Very Good Sport 25m Township Creek Paul Thomson
Tue 5th Jan '16
22 ** Anubis

Repeat. Still a great warmup, and again I climbed it without supplemental gear, bit DAMN that last bolt is in a deathtrap location. If you fall clipping it (fairly likely since you leave good holds and feet to traverse off-route on bad holds and feet for the clip) you WILL ground with 6 bolts up. Next time I'm back here I'm going to move the bolt myself.

Very Good Trad 20m Township Creek Paul Thomson
Tue 5th Jan '16
Tue 29th Dec '15 - Bare Rock
Supernaut Face
25 ** Into the Void

Thought I was on Supernaut... whoops. Fell off at 4th bolt, epic flash pump warmup through the steep dynamic opening moves. Lowered back to the ground from there, then went to the top onsighting from the 4th bolt up. Powerful throwing at the start, then a technical corner featuring a gr23 second crux, and an awesome face finale up the headwall.

Very Good Sport 45m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Tue 29th Dec '15
Mon 4th Jan '16 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Avalanche Couloir Area University Buttress
22 *** Blank Generation

With Hugh. P1 - Onsight (The money pitch. Slightly steep, with spaced and fiddly gear -but adequately protected-, consisting of a nice mix of slightly intimidating face, arete and crack climbing.); P2 - Clean 2nd (about grade 19. Dirty, sharp and thrutchy, with moments of funkiness. Probably better to use the bolts on the sport climb to the left to rap off after P1.) As the guide says: with small cams (and some creativity) this is not the death route it once was. Great!

Classic Trad 60m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Mon 4th Jan '16
19 *** Carpe Diem

Climbed on Hugh's gear. A great long pitch of enjoyable face climbing protected by spaced but stonker protection. About 2 grades easier than Sky Rocket and similarly protected.

Classic Trad 45m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Mon 4th Jan '16
Sat 2nd Jan '16 - Fortescue Bay
The Candlestick
18 *** Corner Route

With Scotty Wearin and Hugh. Classic for the full adventure experience, though the climbing still rates very good. The most complex ropecraft ive done on a climb. Onsight the scary swim to the platform, hard with big waves; P1 - Clean 2nd (Great steep crack and bridging); P2 - Clean 2nd (Pleasant corner crack); P3 - Onsight (I refused to climb the loose offwidth and made up a pitch up a thin crack to the right); P4 - Clean 2nd (A corner doddle. We did a variant start up steep handcrack).

Classic Trad 110m Fortescue Bay Paul Thomson
Sat 2nd Jan '16
Fri 1st Jan '16 - Bare Rock
25 *** God Monster

Hello 2016! With Scotty Wearin and Hugh. A consistently hard and varied climb. P1 - 2nd Clean (awkward slabbing with a desperate pumpy finish); P2 - 2nd Clean (easy traversing into sustained thin finish); P3 - Dog - A broken footer robbed me of my Onsight (desperate bouldery start then run-out hyper-technical slabbing forever); P4 - Dog - Fell at about the 5th bolt (didnt find a crucial sidepull) and I couldnt gain the top headwall until I scrubbed dirt off holds (steep and pumpy headwall)

Mega Classic Sport 130m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Fri 1st Jan '16
Thu 31st Dec '15 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
25 *** Passchendaele

Last climb of 2015! Fell off on Onsight 1 move from the end of the crux (where AoP joins this route). I didnt find the crucial crux protecting wire and just kept climbing desperately until I whipped big time! 1 fall. Happy! 2nd shot I was cruising until I tried to climb into the crux backwards for no reason and utterly punted it. Next time, Gadget. Some friable rock, and a bit dirty, but a classic in the style. Relentlessly overhanging chimneying, off-widthing, handcrack, stemming, fingerlocking

Classic Trad 50m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Thu 31st Dec '15
Wed 30th Dec '15 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
26 *** Angel of Pain

Finally! 4th shot today. 6th shot this trip. 18th shot over the past year. The most shots ive ever given a climb by a lot, and despite the grade this might be my hardest tick to date (and almost certainly gr27 in reality). Demanding, demoralising, destroying and rewarding. Every shot today I was getting through the crux and struggling above (especially getting into the offwidth). Finally, right on dark it all came together. Soooo psyched!

Mega Classic Trad 25m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Wed 30th Dec '15
Wed 30th Dec '15 - Bare Rock
23 * The Best Thing Since Powdered Milk

2nd shot. The first 6m of this is a V3 boulder with some of the ugliest climbing I've done at Bare Rock (dirty -I spent 15min scrubbing the start boulder after falling off on onsight-, friable, and awkwardly powerful), but from the 4th bolt up this is brilliant technical slabbing, getting consistantly harder until the final gr23 slab crux at 32m just before the anchors. If you can hack/endure the crappy start, there is joy to find here.

Very Good Sport 33m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Wed 30th Dec '15
Tue 29th Dec '15 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
26 *** Angel of Pain

2 laps today. Ah, my old nemesis... 'tis good to see you again. The first lap re-learning everything left me feeling like I'd been beaten up and left in a gutter. The 2nd had my best linkage yet overall (though not a new high point) and feeling strong. This is still the hardest 26 I've ever been on, and one of my favourites. Brutal, powerful, technical, steep and traddy. The offwidth finale on gear is the final kick in the balls to leave you dying for a spot of reciprocity. Bloody brilliant.

Mega Classic Trad 25m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Tue 29th Dec '15
24 *** Redneck Love

1st shot today as a warmup for the Alzheimer's Onsight. Not a grain of chalk on it! Quite hard at the grade even for Tassie, with some tricky to read sequences, some rad hard trad, and an utterly diabolical final slab that almost spat me off. Only marred by sections of friable rock. A great, long, rarely repeated gem.

Classic Mixed 35m, 16 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Tue 29th Dec '15
Tue 29th Dec '15 - Bare Rock
23 ** Tomorrows Dream - Variant 2nd Pitch (Tomorrows Dream (Second Pitch))

Probably more 21 than 23, especially considering the neighbouring black slab routes as a grading baseline. Some fun black slabbing with a few tricky thin moves, and some unfortunate fragile rock.

Very Good Sport Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Tue 29th Dec '15
19 * Tomorrows Dream

With Hugh. Clean 2nd P1 and P3, Onsighted the fully bolted variant 2nd pitch instead of the original. Would be a classic easy-ish multi back home, but for Bare Rock its merely "good". Okay easy black rock slabbing for most of it. The last 15m of the third pitch up beautiful bullet-hard orange rock with technical climbing is The Money, and saves this climb from mediocrity.

Very Good Sport 100m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Tue 29th Dec '15
Thu 24th Dec '15 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress
22 ** Nefarious

Not as much arete-climbing as you might think when you look at it, but it does featuring sustained thin face climbing, with one classically Tasmanian-style crux-sequence. Good fun, despite some friable rock.

Very Good Sport 25m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Thu 24th Dec '15
Thu 24th Dec '15 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Avalanche Couloir Area Bulging Buttress
25 *** Mildly Amused

Super-psyched! It's not often I get to boast about onsighting a 35m gr25 mixed climb in Tassie! Engaging crack climbing for 15m on gear (at about grade 23) with some involved and improbable gear-protected moves. Then an outlandish fridge-hugging sequence past a square-cut rooflet and into technical face climbing (with a few token arete slaps) for the remaining 20m of climbing. Perhaps not too tough for the grade but with no chalk on it, and some wet holds, I'll take it!

Classic Trad 35m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Thu 24th Dec '15
22 *** Heat Pump

P1 - Clean 2nd; P2 - Onsight. Both pitches felt tough at the grade (P2 in particular had one diabolical move) but very rewarding. The easy 1st pitch is much more interesting than you might think from the ground, but the stunning 2nd pitch is every bit as good as it looks. Sustained, pumpy, technical, reachy moves up the aesthetic black streak featuring much sidepulling/laybacking on seams, and a spot of arete slapping.

- with z_swander
Very Good Sport 30m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Thu 24th Dec '15
Wed 23rd Dec '15 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge
Duck Reach Traffic Fine Buttress
23 *** Sign Of The Times

2nd shot, punted the onsight (though considering the mitigating factors I really didnt set myself up well to achieve it). Didnt feel too bad 2nd shot. Balancy thin arete with a single cruxy move. The 2nd bolt is in an utterly retarded position.

Very Good Unknown 23m Launceston (Cataract) Gorge Paul Thomson
Wed 23rd Dec '15
Wed 23rd Dec '15 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge
Duck Reach Sawsea Buttress
22 *** Deathrow

Repeat. This time I felt much more stylish than when I originally onsighted it. Still a bloody great climb, intriguingly old school and a bit intimidating.

Classic Mixed 20m, 2 Launceston (Cataract) Gorge Paul Thomson
Wed 23rd Dec '15
Tue 22nd Dec '15 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
26 *** Velvet Morning

Awesome! 3rd shot today. 6th shot this trip. 7th total. 1st shot today I fell off a move down low, then linked to the top. 2nd shot I fell off the same move down low, and this time decided to dial it into submission. 3rd shot I sent it packing at 8pm (having been climbing since 9am) for the hard fought but well-executed tick. This climb is a lot of effort, but damn is it worth it. Sorry Jenga, Skank-tail and Wendy are gone, but Barney is still around.

Mega Classic Sport 30m, 14 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Tue 22nd Dec '15
Tue 22nd Dec '15 - Bare Rock
Rap-In Area between Boneyard and The Great Roof
*** Obsidian Obsession - Project Paul

Carlos and I climbed the first 5 bolts (gr 25) to the crux after reaching the belay via Black Fire just to be on the Proj again. Couldnt stick the crux move after a few goes so we backjumped it and rapped off. Farking MEGA!

Mega Classic Sport 25m, 9 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Tue 22nd Dec '15
Tue 22nd Dec '15 - Bare Rock
25 ** Black Fire

With Carlos. ALMOST a classic, but for the regular sections of bad rock. More "fun" than Sapphire Rose or Into the Mystic. P1 - Clean 2nd (sustained varied slabbing with bad rock at the end); P2 - Dog (One fall on the final sideways dyno out of the bulge. This pitch is great, the bulge goes surprisingly easily, and the final headwall is a pumper); P3 - Clean 2nd (Good slabbing with a few hard moves and a prominant crux); P4 - Onsight (easy slabbing with a hard move to turn the rooflet).

Very Good Unknown 130m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Tue 22nd Dec '15
Mon 21st Dec '15 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
26 *** Velvet Morning

3 shots today. The first was an alzheimer's onsight attempt which became a bit of a mission, the 2nd shot was with 2 falls, and the third was a tired disaster. A spectacular unrelenting technical test piece and very solid at the grade. Grade 24 sequences stacked back to back the entire length, with a V3 boulder problem rooflet to gain the anchor. A true megaclassic.

Mega Classic Sport 30m, 14 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Mon 21st Dec '15
Sun 20th Dec '15 - The Paradiso
25 * Bagpipe Original

As wet as wet can be... which made for some exciting stemming. Onsight to the move through the roof, which was physically too wet to even do, then to the top. Needs another bolt (or small gear) at the top as a fall in the final hard moves on the 5m runout would have you skimming the ground). Hard, intense stemming start. Powerful undercling moves through roof, more thugging, then final funout thin crack. Entertaining... but toooooo wet today.

Very Good Sport 20m, 6 The Paradiso Paul Thomson
Sun 20th Dec '15
24 *** Thunder Birds Are Go

2nd shot. Super happy with the ALMOST onsight considering how WET this was (I ended up slipping off a wet layback). Not as sustained as Offender of the Faith (or as good) but more cruxy. Fun steep thugging with a few moments of intricacy.

Very Good Sport 25m, 9 The Paradiso Paul Thomson
Sun 20th Dec '15
21 ** Shock Wave

Repeat. Still a good warmup and a great climb in its own right.

Very Good Sport 13m, 5 The Paradiso Paul Thomson
Sun 20th Dec '15
Thu 17th Dec '15 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress
24 *** After Midnight

First shot today, almost a year since my original Onsight atempt. Felt controlled and confident the entire way today, floated up it with near-complete security. Lots of hard moves you could fall off and 3 tricky cruxes, but very stance-friendly and you dont get pumped. Classic, but maybe not AS classic as its reputation.

Classic Sport 50m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Thu 17th Dec '15
25 *** The Tower Of Power

Fell at the very pronounced crux at 28m on the Onsight attempt. Sustained at gr21-23 arete climbing, but with one standout gr25 crux sequence. 60m of arete climbing is a LOT of exposed insecurity. The rock is a bit too fragile to be classic (and quite sharp for the Organ Pipes), and the climbing is missing a bolt at the top to protect a bad ledgefall on the final gr21 sequence, but its an entertaining adventure.

Very Good Sport 60m, 19 Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Thu 17th Dec '15
Mon 21st Dec '15 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes The Columns Cossack Column
20 *** Sky Rocket

With Carlos and Scott Wearin. Clean 2nd P1; Onsight P2. P1 is fun in its own right (the step across between cracks is great!), but P2 is the money and utterly mega! Improbable, imposing, intimidating and astounding. Super exposed thin face climbing with spaced fiddly gear to keep it sane, and a final tricky ringlocks crack at 40m to keep you fighting. Super psyched! Even by tassie standards P2 is probably 21.

Mega Classic Trad 60m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Mon 21st Dec '15
Wed 16th Dec '15 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Flange Buttress
19 ** Brown Madonna

With Carlos and Scott Wearin. With big gear this would be an intimidating classic IN THE STYLE (dirty chimneys, V-grooves, body squeezes and offwidths), but I didnt have any big gear and found it quite terrifying relying on tiny wires fiddled behind moving thin flakes to stop bad falls in between 5m runouts. The main offwidth crux was particularly gripping. Not a lead for a gr19 tradster, but intriguingly old school if you can hack the style and bring big gear. An introspective journey.

Classic Trad 50m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Wed 16th Dec '15
18 *** Digitalis

With Carlos and Scott Wearin. Onsight P1, Clean 2nd P2. The first pitch is entertaining, but the real money is the sustained stemming into sustained jamming long 2nd pitch, which -at the grade- is a great easier introduction to the technical aspect of these skills. Great fun.

Very Good Trad 62m Mount Wellington Paul Thomson
Wed 16th Dec '15
Tue 15th Dec '15 - Bare Rock
Boneyard
27 *** Barberella

Spent most of the day piecing this together (in between hours of hiding from the sun). Very hard to work ground up as the very spaced bolts mean all crux sequences have to be climbed to progress. Lots of biiig falls on this one. Dialled all the cruxes but for the last bolt before it joins GDaC (which ive done before) as I was finally tired of whipping. Hard at the grade. Extremely technical and sustained with stacked fiddly cruxes in the first half (18m or so), and 2 more in the upper bit.

Classic Sport 30m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Tue 15th Dec '15
23 ** Fire in the sky

Repeat. This is my third lap on this now, and its still not gotten any easier... though still just as awesome. Unrelentingly thin and technical puzzle-solving.

Classic Sport 30m, 16 Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Tue 15th Dec '15
Mon 14th Dec '15 - Bare Rock
25 *** Into the Mystic

With Carlos. A mega pure Onsight (no chalked or worn holds and some silt buildup) of this sustained hard classic. P1 - Onsight (funky slab to nails - 23++?- final sequence); P2 - 2nd (falls on one move, though the entire pitch is sustained and fingernail thin); P3 - Dog (big falls on 2 hard and baffling cruxes, though the entire pitch is micro holds and scary); P4 - Clean 2nd (Mega sustained techno-slabbing); P5 - Dog (fell at final monster throw at the top of this steeeep pitch. Exposed. Pumpy)

Classic Sport 170m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Mon 14th Dec '15
22 *** The Sapphire Rose

With Carlos. P1 - 2nd (all clean but for broken footer fall on easy climbing at half height); P2 & P3 (linked 50m pitch) - Onsight. Quite hard and sustained throughout, and all pitches felt solid gr22 to me, though the last few moves of P1 are 23 for sure. Extremely thin, insecure, technical slabbing up oodles of black blankness with unrelentingly awesome moves in the style. Great!

Classic Sport 95m Bare Rock Paul Thomson
Mon 14th Dec '15
Fri 11th Dec '15 - Blue Mountains
Bell's Line of Road Pierces Pass Lunch Ledge
25 *** Samarkand

The best Trad Multi in the Blueys? Every pitch has something RAD to recommend it. Great gear, great rock, amazing position. Steep! P1 - Clean 2nd (funky corner and slab); P2 - 1 fall at the end (last 5m) when I placed a cam in the crucial slot and tried to carry on (extremely steep varied corner and crack); P3 - Clean 2nd (strenuous tips laybacking); P4 - Onsight (Enjoyable easy steep stemming); P5 - Clean 2nd (great, sustained vertical crack climbing). Thanks JengA, this one was Mega!

- with Ben Jenga
Mega Classic Trad 200m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Fri 11th Dec '15
Tue 8th Dec '15 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Logan Brae Main Cliff
25 ** Kathy K

An End of Day Lap in the last of the light. I actually thought I was about to score the flash (despite how tired I was) when I stuck the crux, but managed to pump out on the last big(ish) move guarding the tick. A great climb with steep punchiness separated by pleasant contemplation. Really cool rock.

Very Good Sport 16m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Tue 8th Dec '15
25 * Hilti's not Guilty

2 shots. Climbed the contrived eliminate "Fully Direct" version (as it was originally climbed) to try and earn the original 26 grade. Put together the crux very quickly on the first lap, and almost stuck it on the 2nd (I made a small footwork error that threw the last move of the crux off balance), then was fine to the top. If it weren't so hard to stay off the neighboring routes, this would be brilliant, because -aside from being cruxy- this is actually really rad climbing. Next time gadget.

Very Good Sport 16m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Tue 8th Dec '15
24 *** Vertical Dementia

Cruised it today, though I still managed to punt my first lap at the last bolt (while cruising and chatting to Chris) when I climbed myself into a corner and was unable to get out. Hard for 24 (perhaps even 25 in today's ridiculously humid, spoogy conditions), but utterly mega... probably one of the best 3 24's in the Blueys. Varied, extremely pumpy, sustained, and on beautiful rock. I really didn't care having to do a 2nd lap for the tick, cause it was just THAT good.

Mega Classic Sport 18m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Tue 8th Dec '15
22 Side Effect

Quite the bouldery warmup... I certainly got warm. I think Room With a View is better.

Very Good Sport 15m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Tue 8th Dec '15
Sat 5th Dec '15 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Diamond Falls Mr Wall
26 ** Mr Wendle

Stripping the route for a friend. Climbed to the last bolt (with rests) then backjumped and down-climbed to clean. Steep and pumpy!

Very Good Sport 10m, 4 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 5th Dec '15
27 *** Mr Magoo

A mixed bag of climbing... lots of falls and hangs to figure out the 3 distinct cruxes, but good linkage inbetween cruxes. Found the 1st two cruxes challenging (and never linked the full sequences, though I did the moves), but I got utterly shut down by the top crux and never figured it out. Some really illogical bolt positions, and the bolt above the 1st crux is as close to falling out as a bolt can be without actually falling out (so far...).

Very Good Sport 20m, 7 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 5th Dec '15
26 *** Super Weak

The draws were on, so I went for an inspection lap. All the moves felt fine and went without too much effort... except for the top crux, which I really struggled to do in a sustainable (and repeatable on link) way. This will have to wait until I get back from Tassie.

Very Good Sport 15m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 5th Dec '15
Sat 5th Dec '15 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Diamond Falls Unity Area
24 * Easy Grounds a Comin

P1 only. 2nd shot. Pumped out trying to find the holds through unchalked crux on my onsight. Walked it 2nd shot. Fun start to very pronounced crux, then much easier sustained slab climbing (on fragile and dirty rock) with a final sting in the tail at the top.

Very Good Sport 58m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 5th Dec '15
21 ** The Jewel Thief

Repeat. Still a great warmup. Skipped the last 3 draws to make it more exciting.

Classic Sport 28m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 5th Dec '15
Sat 28th Nov '15 - Blue Mountains
Bell's Line of Road Bell Supercrag Arrivals (Lower)
21 * Who the Fuck is Keith

"Grade 21 face climbing? I'll cruise it with my eyes closed"... Nope. I had to really work the footwork to make these very slopey-weird holds work for me. I wasn't sure I'd enjoy this latecomer to Bell Crag, but if I'm honest I really did. Probably harder than the 21 version of Jigger Jeff left of it.

Very Good Sport 15m, 8 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 28th Nov '15
26 ** Crumple Zone

2 shots, though I think I was past my prime Sending state today. Surprisingly awesome. Looks kinda pox and worthless, climbs rad. On my 2nd shot I climbed it in overlapping section with 1 fall. Skipping bolts, it was exciting to pull the final move to the anchor with only 3 bolts clipped. Pumpy, juggy, start, then bouldery.

Classic Sport 8m, 6 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 28th Nov '15
26 *** Cavity Search

Very rad, sustained climbing through much steepness and with some committing moves, but with a very stark crux. I didn't put together the crux after a bunch of goes at it, and just pulled past. The top "red point" crux would be bloody exciting on link. A great climb, but at the moment it feels to cruxy for me.

Very Good Sport 20m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 28th Nov '15
24 ** Ten No Trumps

Repeat. Glad to get this one clean today, as I remember finding the profound crux quite sequency when I first ticked it, and I had no bloody idea of the sequence. Has cleaned up well, and is quite a fun route, with an interesting technical crux (though I suppose some people solve it by burling their way through it, or crimping really hard) to break up the pleasant but humdrum steepish pumping either side.

Very Good Sport 16m, 7 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 28th Nov '15
Sat 28th Nov '15 - Blue Mountains
Bell's Line of Road Bell Supercrag Jean Jaurès Wall
23 ** Avenue Jean Jaures

Another climb at Bell that has cleaned up really well since I first tried it, and now is just plain old fun. 2 cruxes, both involving some tricky/pumpy/unconventional sequences, but not too hard at the grade, and surrounded by consistently pleasant climbing. I was feeling the pump by the time I reached the top. With a 70m rope we could climb from ground level, and JUST lower back to the big ledge to "walk off".

Very Good Sport 35m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 28th Nov '15
20 * La Femme Flic

Wow, despite appearances, this is very good. It slowly gets more difficult until you reach a technical crux (with intriguing tic-tac footwork), then you work the pump to the end. A great warmup, and a great climb in its own right.

Very Good Sport 20m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 28th Nov '15
Fri 27th Nov '15 - Blue Mountains
Bell's Line of Road Pierces Pass Bunny Bucket Buttress and Hotel California Area
22 ** Contented Cows

6hrs car to car. Essentially 5 access pitches (of broken up somewhat dirty face climbing) to get to the top 2 money pitches. Onsight P1 & P2 (Linked into a 60m+ pitch); Clean 2nd P3; Onsight P4 & P5 (Linked); Clean 2nd P6 and Onsight P7. The first money pitch is technically easy at 22, but is essentially a trad protected and superior 45m version of the Hotel C traverse. The top money pitch has a hard start then easing over 45m, on very spaced gear, and is like an easier Disco Biscuit Pitch 7.

- with Neil Monteith
Very Good Trad 280m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Fri 27th Nov '15
Thu 26th Nov '15 - Blue Mountains
Bell's Line of Road Pierces Pass Pierces Pass West Side
24 ** Church of the Seven Samurai

Better than expected (and worth more than the 1 star in the current guide). P1 & P2 - 2nd Clean; P3 - Dog (fell at the main crux, battling sandy, muddy holds, though I essentially read the crux right); P4 - Onsight. Neil made a monster 60m pitch by linking P1 and P2 into a sustained face-climbing epic (with reasonable pro and rock) marred by a scarily chossy start. P3 is sustained corner crack climbing with a bouldery crux and very spaced pro. P4 is short, very steep corner climbing and punchy.

- with Neil Monteith
Very Good Trad 110m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Thu 26th Nov '15
Thu 26th Nov '15 - Blue Mountains
Bell's Line of Road Pierces Pass Pierces Pass East Side
23 ** By Hook or by Crook

Yep, I'm giving this a classic "in the style". Possibly the best "obscure trad epic" route I've done in the Blueys. Clean Second P1 (21), Onsight P2 (23). Both pitches are a bit bold, but never really cross into the realm of "dangerous", and both feature improbable and amazing climbing. P1 climbs an awesome face, then traverses out and up a proud arete feature. P2 is a stellar technical stemming corner with 3 hard sequences on immaculate, inspiring rock. Getting off the top is a bit difficult.

- with Neil Monteith
Classic Trad 55m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Thu 26th Nov '15
Sun 22nd Nov '15 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Ben Trovato Wall
26 ** The Road Not Taken

With Neil having a play on this, I thought I'd refresh my memory of this route by trying to repeat it... and getting utterly slaughtered. Made it to the 5th bolt before bailing! The 6m crux section is utterly desperate, and features such a complex sequence that I had no chance on it today. I remembered NOTHING of my original First Ascent sequence. Perhaps not well equipped for "working" the route, due to an absense of dogging bolts. Bring a stick clip if you want to "work" it. Some dubious rock.

Very Good Sport 18m, 8 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 22nd Nov '15
26 *** Sadomastication

Pitch 3 (23) only. Flash First Ascent! Neil was a seriously good sport to give me all the beta and encourage me to do the FA, despite only needing to return on another day when rested to score the FA for himself. An interesting techy start leads to a stance, then it's all on through pumpy steepness (and via improbably good holds despite the terrain) to an all-out huge deadpoint to the anchor, while 70m above the Bentrovato ledge below. Awesome!

Classic Sport 67m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 22nd Nov '15
25 ** Microdermabrasia

Pitch 3 (24) only. An exciting onsight with no chalk on anything. Mostly this pitch is sustained thin pumping at hard 22. However, this climb harbours a seriously tricky crux featuring a desperately long reach off a 1/4 mono-crimp. The finish up the steep, groovy stemming feature is pretty cool when hanging out at the top of the majestic Bentrovato wall.

Very Good Sport 85m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 22nd Nov '15
23 ** Exile

Clean repeat P1, Onsight the other 3 pitches. P1 has cleaned up really well from when I last climbed it, and was actually enjoyable today (though the McDougal to the arete is still a bit lame); I linked P1 into P2 for a mega pitch featuring a funky, pumpy and tricky traverse, with some seriously hard moves before you resume upwards... But holy crap this has some of the worst bolt positions I've ever seen! P3 is quite sustained and enjoyable. P4 was an enjoyable thin-ish finale. Worthwhile.

Very Good Sport 85m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 22nd Nov '15

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