More than 1,000 Ascents by Paul Thomson

 
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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 1,000 ascents

Grade Route Quality Style Crag Climber Date
Sun 24th May '15 - Bungonia Gorge
Phantom Menace Wall
25 *** Attack of the Clones

The best pitch on Limestone I've climbed in Australia, and comparable in quality with even some overseas A-grade limestone climbs. Stemming, Tufas, Chandeliers, Roofs, Pockets, Weirdo blobs... MEGA! Just the one EOD shot (after 5 pitches of climbing, a 30m Jumaar, and a scary barely protected unnecessary traverse pitch). 2 falls on the Onsight attempt. A sneaky mid-height crux, and a tough bouldery top crux before the anchors. Pumpy. Will probably go in another shot or two. And WORTH the effort.

Mega Classic Sport 31m Bungonia Gorge Paul Thomson
Sun 24th May '15
Sun 24th May '15 - Bungonia Gorge
North Wall
20 ** She Wolf in the Closet

Probably 21. Quite sustained and enjoyable (though SHARP!). The mid-height crux move is great, but quite tricky. Very funky slabbing.

Very Good Sport 22m Bungonia Gorge Paul Thomson
Sun 24th May '15
21 ** Arctic Cat

Hard moves between the 1st and 2nd bolt, then getting progressively easier as you go. Enjoyable slabbing, and the rock isn't as sharp as its neighbours. Quite long.

Very Good Sport 25m Bungonia Gorge Paul Thomson
Sun 24th May '15
Sun 24th May '15 - Bungonia Gorge
Little Thai Wall
22 ** Gilding the Lily

One of the best easier-grade pitches of climbing I've ever done in Bungonia. Immaculate rock for the 1st half, then deteriorating afterwards. Fortunately the whole climb has consistently GREAT climbing with a huge variety of engaging moves. Thoroughly recommended.

Classic Sport 25m, 9 Bungonia Gorge Paul Thomson
Sun 24th May '15
20 Lame Duck

Tough at the grade. Originally given 22? Felt at least solid 21 to me. Sustained, but with a definate (and rather hard) crux. Thin and facey the whole way, but still enjoyable. NOT a good warmup.

Very Good Sport 15m Bungonia Gorge Paul Thomson
Sun 24th May '15
22 * A tufa to far

Quite enjoyable. A lot of climbing and moves for a short climb. Funky (mud) tufas with a tricky last move. The rock quality is actually pretty reasonable for Bungonia. Might be soft-ish at the grade? Definitely worth a lap.

Very Good Sport 25m Bungonia Gorge Paul Thomson
Sun 24th May '15
Sat 23rd May '15 - Bungonia Gorge
South Wall
25 *** Asteroids

With JengA. As part of Iron Curtain and Screaming Tribesman for 350+m of climbing! A GREAT mixed bag of climbing. P1 - 2nd with rests (nails first 2 bolts, then pumpy tufa awesomeness); P2 - Onsight (Bushwalking); P3 - 2nd Clean (Hard, technical slab climbing. Very sustained. Really good.); P4 - Dog (Sustained face climbing. Mostly great); P5 - 2nd Clean (Ho Hum climbing. Unmemorable); P6 - Onsight (Fun steepish jugging, with a boulder problem at the top). A great adventure of high quality.

Classic Sport 220m Bungonia Gorge Paul Thomson
Sat 23rd May '15
23 Screaming Tribesman

Repeat. With JengA. Pitch 6 (trad 23) ONLY. A true trad gem! Great rock and climbing the whole way. I've done this clean on 2nd before, and was REALLY looking forward to leading it today. I got flustered when I couldn't find a crucial gear placement, took a whipper back to the no-hands stance before the hard climbing. Started off again and CRUISED to the top. (Damn, I really should've lowered the 6m back to the ground). Disheartening, not to tick, BUT I still did all the REAL climbing clean...

Good Aid 280m, 1 Bungonia Gorge Paul Thomson
Sat 23rd May '15
22 *** Iron Curtain

Repeat. With JengA (again). This time we swapped our lead pitches from last time, and I led the 2nd pitch. All pitches clean. All pitches still felt hard for the grade, but much easier than last time. To be honest, I kind of cruised up this and just enjoyed it. Nice, cruxy, low-angle technical slabbing with some very spaced bolts (but lots of optional gear). A really good and clean route. JengA linked pitches 3 & 4 to make a MEGAPITCH (again).

Classic Trad 130m Bungonia Gorge Paul Thomson
Sat 23rd May '15
Fri 22nd May '15 - Wingello
Gulp Road Supa Fun Happy
26 ** Ghost In The Shell

Mixed feelings. 3 shots. Never found any of the hard moves (up to where the rock deteriorates) hard at all, including doing the "throw" move like an eliminate (avoiding the juggy flake of California Sunshine, and going straight up the face). It would be ALMOST a classic to here. But on link, with the super-fragile holds of the top disintegrating everywhere, and one rather illogical bolt placement fucking up my clip, it all went to hell, despite the climbing not being THAT hard up there. Hmmm...

Good Sport 31m Wingello Paul Thomson
Fri 22nd May '15
23 *** Supa Fun Happy

One of the best "soft sandstone" routes of its type I've ever done... A shame that the rock deteriorates towards the top (and that it isn't longer). Didn't feel too hard for a 23. Awesomely polished compact slopers, that ALMOST climbs like a Taipan-esque "water groove" route, completely with stemming and rad body positions. Thoroughly enjoyable.

Classic Sport 20m Wingello Paul Thomson
Fri 22nd May '15
22 *** Euphoria

Still took me two shots today. Never found the crucial hold on the "top crux" and pumped out on the warmup. Went easy enough 2nd shot, but still feels quite 23. A real pumper with pretty good rock and a wide variety of moves. Rather sustained.

Very Good Sport 20m, 7 Wingello Paul Thomson
Fri 22nd May '15
Sun 17th May '15 - The Rock
The Towers
22 Comfortably Numb

Only 22 for the first 6m (though thin, balancy, punchy and hard to protect for those 6m) after which its about gr20, with some worryingly loose rock at the top. I fell off with my hands on the hold to finish the hard bit, and was saved solely by my little pink wire placed in a horizontal seam left of the climbing line. Cool climbing, though inconsistant and borderline dangerous.

Very Good Trad 40m The Rock Paul Thomson
Sun 17th May '15
24 ** Buckin bronco

Onsight from the 2nd bolt. For some reason I kept missing my right footer at the start, and slipped off (3 times) despite the moves not being THAT hard. Good climbing on great rock that is hard to read. Grade is only valid if you don't cop out right off-route between 4th and 5th bolt.

Very Good Unknown 20m The Rock Paul Thomson
Sun 17th May '15
21 ** Staircase

Brilliant. A true LINE of funky features. Not easy at the grade, and hardwork as a warmup atraight after 7.5 hours of driving. Good (but fiddly) gear to start, then bolts through the hard stuff. Technical, and absorbing. Classic.

Classic Mixed 35m, 2 The Rock Paul Thomson
Sun 17th May '15
Sat 16th May '15 - Arapiles
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face
17 *** Missing Link

Via right-hand finish. Quintessential trad face climbing at the grade. With 2 racks of wires (including RPs) this is extremely well protected and can be done safely ALL on passive pro. I got in 3 stonker bits of gear to protect the entirety of the traverse, so I'm not too sure why its regarded as dangerous? The only runout I encountered was at the top, when I got sick of stopping to place gear and decided not to place any for the last 6m. Enjoyable rock, movement and not too sustained.

Classic Trad 30m Arapiles Paul Thomson
Sat 16th May '15
Sat 16th May '15 - Arapiles
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
15 *** Resignation

With Chris and Evan. I led the entire climb as 2 giant pitches. Great climbing the entire way, with only a few moves at the grade, but much exposure and plenty of character. P2 and P3 are the money.

Classic Trad 96m Arapiles Paul Thomson
Sat 16th May '15
Fri 15th May '15 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress
26 *** Ergonomics

2.5 shots (my 2nd shot was a stupid fall down low). On my final shot I went to a crucial mid-crux hold I'd been using for an intermediate (but hadn't ticked) and instead went for the wrong spot... punting it mid-crux. I really enjoyed this. Powerful and pumpy with a lot of moves on the steepness, then engaging ticky-tac face moves at the crux, and a slopey, runout finale. Classic Arapilean hard(er) face climbing.

Classic Mixed 20m, 5 Arapiles Paul Thomson
Fri 15th May '15
23 ** Strolling

2nd shot. Hard and intimidating for an onsight warmup. Fell off with a surprise slip mid-crux on my onsight attempt (after getting through all the sketchy, dodgy traddy bit), pulled back on and went straight to the top. No giveaway at the grade, with some exciting trad runouts at the beginning and the end. The crucial loose block at that allows you to protect the traverse isn't merely hollow, it actually moves! Rad climbing and a wide variety of moves.

Very Good Mixed 25m, 1 Arapiles Paul Thomson
Fri 15th May '15
Thu 14th May '15 - Arapiles
Voodoo Area Rats Alley
19 *** Tarantula

EOD lap in the rain. Not too hard at the grade, but as slippery as sandstone comes. If this was 20m longer it would be a megaclassic. Climbed entirely on wires. Stonker gear, rad stemming positions, and sustained (albeit briefly, due to its short length). Enjoyable.

Classic Trad 25m Arapiles Paul Thomson
Thu 14th May '15
Thu 14th May '15 - Arapiles
Castle Crag
25 *** The Undertaker

3 laps on toprope to suss the climb for a prospective lead. 1st shot was a disaster as I got schooled OLD-SKOOL style. 2nd shot was one surprise slip from the slightly wet Jug of Disappointment despite feeling good. 3rd I was cruising until I got tangled in the toprope. Theres no more point TRing this... the only reason to get back on is for the Send. Short, intense, burly, steep and consistantly slippery. Some of the slipperiest footers of all time!

Classic Trad 18m Arapiles Paul Thomson
Thu 14th May '15
11 * Trapeze

Quick lap to get to the summit to set up the gear on The Undertaker . Bloody oath, the sketchy-footer traverse makes for relatively exciting climbing for a bloody grade 11! Lots of good wires. Good value.

Very Good Trad 20m Arapiles Paul Thomson
Thu 14th May '15
Thu 14th May '15 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall
10 ** The Shroud

Free solo lap. Good for an easy climb, but not the best I've done here. One memorable moment traversing under a chockstone out over the void, and another doing the infamous Step Across of Spiral Staircase. Other than that, its jist pleasant traddy climbing (chimneys and cracks).

Trad 120m Arapiles Paul Thomson
Thu 14th May '15
Thu 14th May '15 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress
13 ** Dunes Direct

Early morning free solo warmup. Awesome climbing, and not as mossy as it looks from a distance. Sustained around gr10, with cruxy moves making up the brief harder sections. Not as sustained or exposed as Syrinx, nor as funky and varied as Eskimo Nell (my other 2 recent free solos here), bit still a great climb in its own right, with a handful of particularly great sections.

Classic Trad 100m Arapiles Paul Thomson
Thu 14th May '15
Wed 13th May '15 - Arapiles
Atridae Muldoon Area
13 *** Muldoon

With Chris and Evan. Something easy and classic to end the day. P1 - Onsight. P2 - Clean 2nd. In typical Arapiles style, you get damn good value for money even on a 13. Easy, varied, good gear, REAL climbing, a spot of exposure and a classic belay stance. Fun.

Classic Trad 42m Arapiles Paul Thomson
Wed 13th May '15
Wed 13th May '15 - Arapiles
Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area
21 * Pilot Error

On Chris's gear. Up-climbed and downclimbed the entire thing clean rather than bring up my Second. It's a novelty, sure, but entertaining. Short, steep, mega juggy roof with easy access, great exposure and that classic photo opportunity. A bit of a laugh.

Very Good Mixed 12m, 1 Arapiles Paul Thomson
Wed 13th May '15
Wed 13th May '15 - Arapiles
Atridae The Flight Deck
25 *** Have A Good Flight

Just time for the 1 shot before my belayer had to depart for home. With Rob's beta I flashed to the last move of the crux before -not trusting my feet- I failed to hold it and Had a Nice Flight. Exciting but safe fall. Intense climbing which, though short, is on from when you set off to when you clip the anchors. Just like climbing in the Blueys (but with better rock). Hopefully I'll have time for another lap for the Send.

Classic Sport 25m, 6 Arapiles Paul Thomson
Wed 13th May '15
23 *** Orestes

Awesome steep stemming and pumpy finale. 1 lap for the Onsight, and another clean on Second to get my own gear back. Didnt seem too hard for a 23, but I do LOVE stemming. Stonker wires (I only used 1 cam), great stances, stellar technical climbing and an exciting finish.

Classic Trad 40m Arapiles Paul Thomson
Wed 13th May '15
Wed 13th May '15 - Arapiles
Atridae Cassandra Area
23 * Pain Street

Linked into Cassandra Direct for a warmup. With the chalk washed off, I pumped out before I found the crucial holds to turn the lip to the anchors. If I wasn't time limited I'd give it another lap for the tick, but I have bigger finish to fry. A bit runout when you don't bring supplemental gear. Exciting roof thugginess. Watch out for red herring chalk!

Very Good Mixed 15m, 6 Arapiles Paul Thomson
Wed 13th May '15
22 * Cassandra Direct

Warmup. Very thin and slippery. The start is challenging ooziness to get you warmed up for the committing crux with teflon footers. Enjoyable slabbing.

Very Good Sport 23m Arapiles Paul Thomson
Wed 13th May '15
Tue 12th May '15 - Arapiles
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area
10 *** Syrinx

Rad afternoon solo between storms with Rob Medlicott. Soloing something like this allows me to appreciate the quality in the same manner that a new climber would. A mega route with real climbing and exposure despite the grade, and an awesome way to redeem a weather-stricken day. Varied and interesting.

Mega Classic Trad 170m Arapiles Paul Thomson
Tue 12th May '15
Tue 12th May '15 - Arapiles
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Gonzo Boulder
V3 ** Gonzo Reverso (Rob's Rad Traverse)

Give this a name, Rob! Many attempts and much skin spent on this. I really struggled with how bunched up I became on the low traverse. Managed to come close a few times, but no luck. A cool sequence of intense moves. I was working HARD!

Very Good Boulder 3m Arapiles Paul Thomson
Tue 12th May '15
V3 Caesar Midget

4th shot. Took a few goes to refine the microbeta. Hard start on sharp holds, then committing cool moves up a slopey arete.

Very Good Boulder Arapiles Paul Thomson
Tue 12th May '15
Tue 12th May '15 - Arapiles
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Crankshaft Boulder
V4 ** Crankshaft

2nd shot. Hard V3/Soft V4? Rad little boulder with a few powerful moves on funky holds up a crack feature.

Very Good Boulder 1m Arapiles Paul Thomson
Tue 12th May '15
V1 ** Waterboys

Slipped off this as the rain came down. Damn. 2nd shot. Pumpy, fun, juggy traverse.

Very Good Boulder 3m Arapiles Paul Thomson
Tue 12th May '15
Mon 11th May '15 - Arapiles
Watchtower Area Right Watchtower Face
21 *** Auto Da Fe

With Rob. P1 only before daylight and inclement weather forced us off. Very hard start (the pocket jump, mantle and moves after are malevolent) and finish (the monos are crazy), but easier consistent climbing in the middle. Gear was spaced and fiddly, but adequate. I could have made it MUCH tamer with a second set of wires and RPs. Just great climbing up a nice clean line. Will return for the upper pitches if it ever stops raining!

Classic Trad 90m Arapiles Paul Thomson
Mon 11th May '15
16 *** Brolga

With Rob. Onsight P1, clean 2nd P2 (bloody scary glassy slabbing IN THE RAIN), Onsight P3. Great slabbing, with much better gear than I expected on all pitches (and no, we didnt use tricams) though there were a few safe but exciting runouts. Just genuinely good climbing.

Classic Trad 120m Arapiles Paul Thomson
Mon 11th May '15
16 *** Watchtower Crack

With Rob. Onsight P1 & P2 (linked), Clean 2nd P3, Onsight P4. Classic at the grade, but not AS classic as its reputation had led me to expect. A nice variety of styles and gear. The 2 bolts are a bit depressing to see, and there are some loose blocks.

Classic Mixed 100m, 3 Arapiles Paul Thomson
Mon 11th May '15
Sun 10th May '15 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Golden Streak Boulder
V0- The usual descent

Best climb EVAH!

Mega Classic Boulder 5m Arapiles Paul Thomson
Sun 10th May '15
Sun 10th May '15 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Krondorff Boulder
V2 6

Done from the sit start for a few extra moves. Balancy and tenuous. One particularly memorable rock-over move. This felt quite high on the mossy topout.

Very Good Boulder Arapiles Paul Thomson
Sun 10th May '15
V6 * 9

3rd shot, and a repeat lap after to improve the ethics of my mantle. Short but briefly powerful. I found the CORRECT mantle challenging. Rad heel hook. V4?

Very Good Boulder Arapiles Paul Thomson
Sun 10th May '15
Sun 10th May '15 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall
V3 * V3 Face

3rd shot. Took a few goes to get off the SIT START, but when I stuck the opening 2 moves it was all on. Easier after the start, but its not over til you topout.

Very Good Boulder 4m Arapiles Paul Thomson
Sun 10th May '15
V3 * V3 Arete/Groove

Funky and enjoyable. Tricky foot moves to get established from the sit start, then progressively easier and funkier.

Very Good Boulder 4m Arapiles Paul Thomson
Sun 10th May '15
V4 * Pebble Wall

Tricky to get established on the slab, then easier tricky slabbing up PEBBLES! V3, maybe? I cant grade these sorts of boulders. Fun.

Very Good Boulder 4m Arapiles Paul Thomson
Sun 10th May '15
Sun 10th May '15 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Golden Streak Area Boulders Golden Streak Boulder
V1 Face and flake

Only a few moves, but technically interesting. A bit of thin fun.

Good Boulder Arapiles Paul Thomson
Sun 10th May '15
Sat 9th May '15 - Grampians
Victoria Range Buandik Area The Gallery
23 ** Chain of Fools

Repeat. One lap for trainingin hideous conditions. The final crux flake was a damn waterfall that just got wetter as the day went on. So juggy it seems improbable when you consider the steepness.

Very Good Sport 15m Grampians Paul Thomson
Sat 9th May '15
24 ** Two Tribes

Repeat. 3 laps today. Working bloody hard today, with the two ball slopers in the steep bit wet, and the cruxy lip turn flake sopping... but still a rad steep pumper.

Classic Sport 15m Grampians Paul Thomson
Sat 9th May '15
Fri 8th May '15 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie
24 ** Nose Job

Via the right-hand (easier) corner. Someone's gear was on it, so we decided to give it a lash. Might be hardish 22 when the gear is in situ. Rad climbing up a great line, with some mega moves above bomber gear. Thoroughly enjoyable.

Classic Trad 30m Arapiles Paul Thomson
Fri 8th May '15
Fri 8th May '15 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle
23 *** Birdman of Alcatraz

On JengA's gear. Not hard for 23, nor quite as intimidating/sketchy as its reputation might suggest, but bloody great and inspiring climbing the whole way. 3 varied cruxes, and engaging. Glad to have FINALLY gotten on this.

Classic Trad 36m Arapiles Paul Thomson
Fri 8th May '15
18 *** Death Row

Great value for an 18... the full trad experience. Climbed on JengA's gear. Great gear, some funky moves through the sentry box and the 2nd rooflet, and no giveaway at the grade. Utterly memorable.

Classic Trad 45m Arapiles Paul Thomson
Fri 8th May '15
Thu 7th May '15 - Grampians
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall
27 *** World Party

With jengA. Belayed from the ground using a single 80m route. Only worked P2 to sort the moves. Linked P2 into P3 for a mega pitch testing mental and physical endurance. P1 - Onsight; P2 - Pink Point (ticked 5th shot, and continued into P3 without resting); P3 - Flash. What a route! P1 is okay. P2 is enjoyable bouldery fun, but P3 is utterly mindblowing through a roof, and steep slopey water scoops. A lot of effort to work, but worth the investment.

Mega Classic Mixed 64m, 9 Grampians Paul Thomson
Thu 7th May '15
24 *** World Party Pitch 3

Wow. What a pitch! Unequaled in quality. Linked into P2 for a giant megapitch of awesome, belayed from the ground with an 80m rope. Had worked P2, but not P3, so on ticking P2 I just kept climbing, battling tooth and nail the whole way. Once you leave the stance below the roof, this pitch is immaculate steep water-scoop slopers, stemming, and "get up it however you can" climbing. Quite runout, but safe as houses falls. Incredibly exposed. Aesthetic. Perfect rock.

Mega Classic Sport 20m Grampians Paul Thomson
Thu 7th May '15
27 *** World Party Pitch 2

5th shot. Linked into P3 for a single mega pitch belayed from the ground with an 80m rope. 1st shot to get the gear on, fix a static to the belay at the end of P1 and suss the moves. 2nd - 4th shot I was using flawed beta. 5th shot with new beta it all came together for a VERY pumped SEND. Bouldery and shouldery, but rad in its uniqueness and exposure. I enjoyed this quite a bit even on my first lap.

Classic Trad 12m Grampians Paul Thomson
Thu 7th May '15
21 * World Party Pitch 1

A bit wandery and rope drag is annoying even with heaps of extenders. But the climbing -which can be defined as 3 mantles separated by SOME climbing- is trad-tastic. Not a bad pitch in and of itself.

Very Good Trad 20m Grampians Paul Thomson
Thu 7th May '15
20 * Atomic Tadpole

Seconded Jenga. A mega moderate adventurous trad route. Varied climbing abounds. A funky finger crack. Rad roof. Easy slab and heady mega headwall. Almost a classic and heaps of good gear. Get on it!

Very Good Trad 55m Grampians Paul Thomson
Thu 7th May '15
Wed 6th May '15 - Grampians
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall
26 *** The Invisible Fist (of Professor Hiddich Smiddich) (+ Southern Delight)

3rd shot today, 4th shot total. The first 2 shots today were frustrated by the wind blowing horizontal rain straight onto the crux holds, and both shots I fell off the last hold of the crux despite the wet. For the Send shot, I siezed on 30min without rain to do this route in the best conditions I've seen it yet. After sticking the crux, the rest of this climb was Mark and Execute and was never in doubt. Rad! Glad to send this one packing despite rubbish conditions.

Classic Sport 26m, 7 Grampians Paul Thomson
Wed 6th May '15
Wed 6th May '15 - Grampians
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Spurt Wall
24 ** Dial-A-Lama

Just the 1 shot to warmup a bit more. Almost a classic. Quite sustained, engaging, involving and of a respectable length. So many unrelenting slopers.

Very Good Sport 15m, 7 Grampians Paul Thomson
Wed 6th May '15
22 Spurting Mildly

Repeat. So spoogy today that it actually felt wet. I'm almost surprised that I managed to make it to the top. Made a good warmup.

Good Sport 12m, 3 Grampians Paul Thomson
Wed 6th May '15
Tue 5th May '15 - Grampians
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall
22 Anaconda Pitch 1

Pitch 1 only to get to the belay for the Money Pitch. I didn't mind this in a clasically awkward trad kind of way. 4 bits of gear in the entire pitch (including the bolt) - thanks Goshen! The moves back left after the offwidth flake are particularly tenuous and memorable.

Very Good Trad 17m Grampians Paul Thomson
Tue 5th May '15
26 *** The Invisible Fist (of Professor Hiddich Smiddich) (+ Southern Delight)

One lap to suss the moves and equip the route in between howling winds and rock-wetting sideways rain storms. Took a few big falls before I could put on the crux draw. Good, but not as classic as Mr Joshua because it's too broken up and cruxy. As usual for Taipan, perfect rock and irritating bolting. The crux section in itself is a rad boulder problem that can be solved with tricky footwork. The upper section post-crux is an amazing runout pumper. Left the gear on this for tomorrow.

Classic Sport 26m, 7 Grampians Paul Thomson
Tue 5th May '15
Tue 5th May '15 - Grampians
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Spurt Wall
22 Spurting Mildly

2nd shot. Tried to warmup on this in proper alpine conditions, couldnt feel fingers after 4th move and popped off halway between 2nd and 3rd bolt. Okay bouldery climbing that induces a good pump, but over all too soon.

Good Sport 12m, 3 Grampians Paul Thomson
Tue 5th May '15
Mon 4th May '15 - Grampians
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall
26 ** Snake Flake

Onsight to the crux. Shut down by the crux. Onsight to the top. Scary top section runout when you dont bring any trad gear. 90% of this climb would be a classic Taipan 24, but the crux -though ridiculously weird- is so frustratingly hard and baffling. Never really came up with a viable sequence.

Very Good Sport 25m, 4 Grampians Paul Thomson
Mon 4th May '15
25 ** Medusa

Yeah! On JengAs gear. The actual climbing might be in the easier 25 category (when you have the beta) but rope drag and boldness are both factors that make this harder than actual moves. The start up the Seventh Pillar is classic in itself, but the moves up Medusa make the awesome icing on this intense cake. Inspiring rock, rad movement. Many small sloping crimps. Just keep on plugging. Thanks muchly to JengA for the beta.

Classic Mixed 35m, 3 Grampians Paul Thomson
Mon 4th May '15
22 *** The Seventh Pillar Left Hand Variant

To the first anchor. On JengAs gear. JengA placed 6 bits of gear in the entire pitch! Absolutely classic trad climbing that just keeps getting harder and better. Perfect rock.

Classic Mixed 46m, 1 Grampians Paul Thomson
Mon 4th May '15
25 *** Mr. Joshua Pitch 1

2nd shot, placing 2 of the 3 bits of trad gear I used. The Onsight attempt was 1 fall reaching to the incut hold at the end of the crux, then clean to the top. Absolutely stunning! Perfect rock, sustained and unrelenting climbing. Every rubbish sloper can be made great with 1 extreme body position or another. Exciting runouts. A true Climber's climb with inspiration in Spades.

Mega Classic Trad 35m Grampians Paul Thomson
Mon 4th May '15
21 Constrictor

Much more involved climbing than you might expect from the ground (or the guidebook description). Runout slabbing up polished slopers with very few actual holds. Rather consistent. I enjoyed this! The crux reach isn't as hard as you think.

Very Good Mixed 18m, 3 Grampians Paul Thomson
Mon 4th May '15
Sun 3rd May '15 - Grampians
Victoria Range Buandik Area The Tower
25 *** Terror of the Sea Pitch 1

2nd shot. Was tired for the crux trying to put the damn crux draw on. Might be soft for 25, but probably harder than 24. I dont see why being short would make this any harder. A cruxy section where this departs Inspector Gadget on miniscule slopey crimps and some powerful moves after, with a runout to the anchor.

Very Good Sport 20m Grampians Paul Thomson
Sun 3rd May '15
27 *** Super Mario Bros Direct Start

Lots of dogging, geezer-craft and about a million falls. The start was desperate and powerful for me, and the MEGA gr25 section felt like damn hard work at the grade... but its a stellar climb, on immaculate rock, with exciting, improbable, sustained climbing. Super-steep! Now if only I could the jump-start on the 25 version.

Classic Sport 20m Grampians Paul Thomson
Sun 3rd May '15
26 *** Thundercats

Just the one shot. A great route, though rather cruxy. Onsight to the crux, and FROM the crux to the top, but it took a LOT of effort to put together the crux boulder problem. The slab traverse is heady, techy awesomeness. The crux is burly and bouldery, and the top is pumpy excitement... maybe next time.

Very Good Sport 25m, 8 Grampians Paul Thomson
Sun 3rd May '15
24 *** Inspector Gadget

2nd shot. Fell off the bulge on the Onsight attempt. This felt 25 to me. Even with the bulge sequence dialled, I was still working for it! A great route with a wide range of moves on perfect rock.

Very Good Sport 40m Grampians Paul Thomson
Sun 3rd May '15
21 Wellington Wimpy

Repeat. Still not GOOD, though not as bad as I remember. Sharp and different to anything else I've done at The Tower. Gets you warm, I suppose.

Average Sport 18m, 7 Grampians Paul Thomson
Sun 3rd May '15
Sat 2nd May '15 - Grampians
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Campground Boulders
V4 ** Ultra Deluxe

2 shots. Fell off with my right hand on the finishing jug on the first. Ripped skin from the pocket on my 2nd and went home.

Very Good Boulder 5m Grampians Paul Thomson
Sat 2nd May '15
V3 * Boundary

Repeat. Didnt feel so bad today, but still took 2 shots to stick the pocket. The topout was exciting without a mat.

Very Good Boulder Grampians Paul Thomson
Sat 2nd May '15
V2 Mary

The hard part of the boulder is okay but chossie, but the tricky mantle topout is exciting.

Good Boulder 4m Grampians Paul Thomson
Sat 2nd May '15
V3 Super Deluxe

Repeat. Still took a few shots to get off the ground. Fun with decreasing difficulty.

Very Good Boulder 4m Grampians Paul Thomson
Sat 2nd May '15
Wed 29th Apr '15 - Blue Mountains
Bell's Line of Road Pierces Pass Walls Lookdown
26 *** The Obvious Elbow of Aristocrat Arthur Decanter

Finally! 2nd shot today, 9th lap in total. Extremely long, thin, technical, stressfully sustained, surprisingly overhanging and stunningly positioned. Took a monster whip off the last move of the crux on my first shot, and I was shaking when I made it past it and went into the pumpy/scary traverse on the Send. Rope drag was noticeable, but not as bad as I was expecting, though going into the top crux my own weariness was definitely discernible, especially when it started raining! Utterly Mega!

Mega Classic Sport 58m, 20 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 29th Apr '15
Mon 27th Apr '15 - Blue Mountains
Bell's Line of Road Pierces Pass Walls Lookdown
*** The Obvious Elbow of Aristocrat Arthur Decanter (The Magnum Opus Project - PROJECT PAUL)

3 more laps Top Rope Solo. Some great sections of linkage (have now linked the entire climb in 2 overlapping sections) but still haven't managed to climb it all clean, even on Top Rope. By the 3rd shot yesterday, I was so worn-out that it was all going downhill. Linking from the start of the traverse to the very top, the top (gr24) crux of I Have a Dream became a desperate battle with much shouting, but I did it. Might be time to try a lead attempt.

Mega Classic Sport 58m, 20 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 27th Apr '15
Sun 26th Apr '15 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Diamond Falls Unity Area
25 ** Beauty In The Little Things...

3 more shots today. Perfect (icy) conditions, so no excuses, but still no send. On the 3rd lap, I executed perfectly all the way to the last move of the crux, when my left hand slipped off a polished 1/4 pad 2-finger crimp with my right a mere 2 inches from the victory jugs. You climb the hardest part of You Crazy Diamond, then increasingly difficult technical face-moves (with thin stances in between) and a hyper-thin crux at 25m or so (where I fell all 3 times). Hard work!

Very Good Sport 33m, 14 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 26th Apr '15
Sun 26th Apr '15 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Diamond Falls Unity Area
23 * Uncooth Youth

Bloody oath, tried to clean this dog up as a warmup, but still took 2 shots for the tick. Skipped the mid-crux draw on the link for a tasty runout to the anchor. Very bouldery for about 5m (and easy either side) with grainy holds that are getting smaller, and an utter lack of feet. Nails!

Very Good Sport 18m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 26th Apr '15
Sat 25th Apr '15 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Goats Meat Cave
23 ** Goats Meat

Sigh Not at this time of the day, I'm afraid. I was surprised by the mid-steepness crux, moved to a red-herring "arete" hold, and didn't have the energy to get back. Dubious rock, and rather "broken up", but quite long and adventurous. Bloody steep. The "rope redirect 'biner" makes it VERY easy to clean this thing.

Very Good Sport 25m, 12 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 25th Apr '15
22 Non Stop Crush

Bloody hard at 22, might be 23. One harder move, but quite sustained and intense for a face climb. Similar to Budda and the Chocolate Box. If the rock was A-grade, this would be a classic, but I suspect it will be getting harder over time (also like Budda and the Chocolate Box ). Its all in the feet. Very enjoyable, even EOD.

Very Good Sport 17m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 25th Apr '15
Sat 25th Apr '15 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Adults Only Cave
26 ** These Terrors be but Arguments for Children

Exploratory lap. Short and intense. Very bouldery. O/S to the crux, spent a lot of time working out the crux, then the end was okay. I think I could do this, but the crux is still very low percentage for me. Its not bad, but its not worth the effort.

Very Good Sport 12m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 25th Apr '15
26 *** The Way of All Flesh M0

2 shots. The 2nd shot was great for refining beta on the lower and upper crux for a 2-fall, 1 rest lap with good linkage. The loooong queues to get on this... not so good (it's like being at the RTA, take a ticket and wait in line). Mega-super-steepness monkeying on jugs, with 2 crimpy sections making the cruxes at either end. Thoroughly enjoyable and ridiculous.

Classic Sport 22m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 25th Apr '15
Sat 25th Apr '15 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Electric Blue Area
19 Frisky Two Times

Linked into the top of Under Pressure for a mega-long sustained route. Rather snappy-looking rock, though I didnt break anything off. With good footwork I doubt you'll break anything. Considering the broken crux hold of Under Pressure now makes that route nails and inconsistant, linking this into the top probably surpasses it for quality.

Very Good Sport 20m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 25th Apr '15
23 * Kate's Kangaroo Dance

Tough warmup. Nails start even at 23, with hard to clip 2nd draw. Okay middle, and tricky thin-slab finale. Not great, but interesting. Dubious rock.

Very Good Sport 15m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 25th Apr '15
Sat 25th Apr '15 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall
21 ** Lady Grinning Soul

Repeat. Not a bad warmup. A bit of a one-sequence wonder. If you disregard the copious amounts of glue on this thing, its not too bad a climb. Mingen undercling!

Very Good Sport 25m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 25th Apr '15
Sun 19th Apr '15 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce One of the Best Area
19 ** Cat's in the Cradle

With Neil. Climbed out at the end of the day with a combination of pack-hauling and climbing WITH packs... Not a reccommended exit, since the Wall Of Tree bush-bash back to the road is harder than the climb (and took longer). P1 - Clean 2nd (okay, easy traversing on good rock); P2 - Onsight (hard start, a few thin and reachy moves, and a rather desperately thin crux section at 2/3rds height); P3 - Clean 2nd (not so good. Ironstone dinnerplates, vegetation and sand). Probably best to bail from P2

Very Good Sport 53m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 19th Apr '15
23 *** The Master's Eggs

P1 only. Good to clean up this old dog. Still took me 2 shots to put together the lower arete crux, though the full sun MIGHT have been a factor. The lower crux move felt like I was working damned hard on the tick. Until the top 10m of P1, this is some of the best (and weirdest) rock in the Blueys... But despite being great climbing, it the climb itself doesn't QUITE take advantage of that mega rock. The middle flowstone is refreshing to hold. The upper crux is hyper-thin and techy.

Classic Sport 25m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 19th Apr '15
Sun 19th Apr '15 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Spoilt Brats Wall
23 ** Infant Terror

Far superior to Spoilt Brats and Gash Attacks! Some of the best rock in the Blueys. A hard warmup. Climbed the 2 main pitches as a giant 45m pitch. Seconded the doddle trad access pitch; Pink Point the traverse (I ended up too low (below the roof) mid-traverse, had to do a DESPERATE move to get back on-line, then ended up going too high and falling off right at the end. It went 2nd shot); Onsight the pumpy top pitch despite epic rope drag and mega flash pump. Brilliant climbing as a big pitch.

Classic Sport 45m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sun 19th Apr '15
Sat 18th Apr '15 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Diamond Falls Mr Wall
26 *** Mr Weak

2 laps. The first was exploratory, and trying to remember the start moves on Superweak. The 2nd shot I unexpectedly linked to mid traverse on superweak (before realising I hadn't worked out the moves there), then bolt to bolt linkage and refinement up Mr Weak. A superior and enjoyable finale adding value to -what I consider- a very average original route. Burly, and with a ridiculous final move to the anchors.

Very Good Sport Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 18th Apr '15
28 *** Hairline 2000

Via LHV. An exploratory lap of this classic in the middle of a hurricane. Bailed from the last move of the crux (to the ironstone, then to the horn) - I'd been on it for a while working out moves, and it was time to trade out with my belayer. Burly, but intriguing climbing. I think I could link to the jug before the crux, but I found the moves to get into the crux bloody hard (in particular, getting left hand solid on the undercling). A very very very longshot.

Classic Sport 18m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 18th Apr '15
Sat 18th Apr '15 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Diamond Falls Unity Area
25 *** Diamond Dillema

Awesome! With traffic it would be classic. About a 1/2 grade harder than Innocent Fortune. After the initial boulder problem, the angle eases, but the climbing is still quite sustained all the way to the anchors. Lots of very thin moves with tricky feet between good rest stances. So many sidepulls, pockets and underclings. Another LONG route. I enjoyed this very much.

Very Good Sport 30m, 15 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 18th Apr '15
24 *** Innocent Fortune

2nd shot today. That nails lower boulder problem makes for a hideous warmup. Powerful juggy start, then 2 bolts of bouldery moves (featuring the hardest single move of any gr24 in the Blueys), then long, enjoyable climbing up a linked series of flake features. Could be brilliant with more traffic. Learn to love the mingen crimp (and with a good foot sequence its not quite so mingen)! Long!

Very Good Sport 30m, 12 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Sat 18th Apr '15
Thu 16th Apr '15 - Blue Mountains
Bell's Line of Road Pierces Pass Walls Lookdown
*** The Obvious Elbow of Aristocrat Arthur Decanter (The Magnum Opus Project - PROJECT PAUL)

3 laps of the lower 30m (crux) on Top Rope Solo. So... damned... MEGA! My best link on 3rd shot was to the final throw that ends the hardest bit of climbing (the first 25m or so) before I missed the throw, though I still had about 9m of sustained and airy gr22 before I would get a rest. I also added an extra bolt, and bolted the traverse line that gets you to the belay anchors of this from Lunch Ledge. Gr25/26?

Mega Classic Sport 58m, 20 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Thu 16th Apr '15
Wed 15th Apr '15 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Main Wall
23 * Nev Herrod

Repeat placing draws. Warm down lap to see what I had left in the tank ("enough", apparently). This novelty roof is always good for a laugh.

Very Good Sport 12m, 5 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 15th Apr '15
26 *** Trix Roughly

Quick EOD lap to have a look at it. Other than the nails (and painful) start, this is surprisingly entertaining and didn't feel too bad. Sure, it'll be pumpy on link, but all the moves went easily first go despite average conditions. Just gotto get that start dialled! Thuggish!

Very Good Sport 12m, 5 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 15th Apr '15
Wed 15th Apr '15 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen White Linen Wall
27 *** Better than Nothing

4 shots. Nothing on this felt very hard to me, but I still failed to put it all together for the tick. The two huge dynos are exciting but no real problem for me, but 3 of my links fell apart at the awkward-to-catch deadpoint move after the easy (but pumpy) traverse. The one time I linked through it I hesitated before deciding to skip the clip, and promptly muffed the dyno. No idea what the grade is. Might be worth coming back to.

Very Good Sport 15m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 15th Apr '15
Wed 15th Apr '15 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Junket Pumper Area
24 * Glad Ingram

2nd shot. Dissappointed not to onsight this as a warmup -fell with half of my hand on the ironstone jug, but failed to hold it properly- but you cant have everything. Felt more 23 than 24. Quite enjoyable with a nice variety of moves for such a short climb. Makes a good warmup when you know where the holds are.

Very Good Sport 18m, 8 Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Wed 15th Apr '15
Mon 13th Apr '15 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Sesame Street
24 ** Escape Velocity

No flash for me. Just too damn tired at the end of the day, and 4 days on. A really nice headwall... now if only the lower 10m was as consistent, this would be a true classic. Quite cruxy (I up-climbed and down-climbed for a while before committing (and subsequently falling off), but enjoyable (easier) climbing either side. Will go next time, and it's definitely worth another lap for the tick.

Very Good Sport 20m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 13th Apr '15
Mon 13th Apr '15 - Blue Mountains
Blackheath Area Porters Pass Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall
25 ** Ness is Best

2nd shot today (3rd shot total, I bailed off the last bolt a few years ago). A burly start, then doddly middle (though quite runout) to an intense last 10m or so. Quite crimpy, and with a fair-bit of tic-tac footwork to make the miniscule edges manageable. I found a few slightly obscure hand movements which reduced the actual amount of physical strength required at the crux.

Very Good Sport 20m Blue Mountains Paul Thomson
Mon 13th Apr '15

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