Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Wed 17th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex | ||||||
21 | FA ★★ Not Here to F$#k Spiders | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 laps to verify the route/quality. Really interesting, sustained, technical slabbing/face climbing. Now the easiest route to exit the crag with.
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24 | ★ Get a Black Dog Up Ya - with Gavin | 35m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Much better than I remembered it (and much easier)! Essentially 2 boulders surrounded by easy climbing, but both boulders are rad. With some rope management, this is very achievable as a giant single pitch.
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Sun 14th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau Marchant's Canyon Crags Waylander | ||||||
28 | ★★ Water Hazard - with Match | 36m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat attempt, not clean today. Just the one lap for fitness and to re-remember the beta for Match . I was pretty happy to put together the entirety of the upper crux section with minimal hassle, years after I was last on this. Amazing climbing from about the 5th bolt up!
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Sat 13th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Snake Cave | ||||||
23 | FA ★★ Shagohod | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I really enjoyed this, but its probably not for everyone. Went really easily today, so its probably not as hard as I thought it was. A really funky, fun, steep finale with some very weird moves
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20 Hard | ★ Outer Haven | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Repeat. As I said before, if you stay out of the cave, this is actually quite fun, and the crux is enjoyable.
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Wed 3rd Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex | ||||||
25 Hard | ★★ Being and Nothingness (2nd Edition) | 35m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean Repeat TRS.
After chopping the original (crappy) start, re-jigging the bolts in the upper section, repairing a super key broken hold (that was forcing a weird "round the world" sequence, and meant the crux bolts were all in the wrong place), and developing a whole new (gr21) start, I needed to see if my efforts had borne fruit. In short, this is now one of my favourite routes on the wall. I'd call it 2nd best after Life of Riley. Its rad that with a bit more route development experience, and a bit of time and effort, this route -that has always frustrated me for having a crappy lower half, and a good but poorly arranged upper half- is now one of my favourite sporty sport routes I've put up. I really hope this gets more traffic now, because it deserves it. Incidentally, the gr21 Bottom section (25m to the first anchor) is proper good climbing, and would happily stand next to such contemporaries at Cosmic County. |
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex | ||||||
26 ~25 | ★★ Leviathan | 32m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean Repeat. Revenge! Had to work at the top, but still managed to punch this straight out today. So much fun.
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23 ~22 | ★★ Smoko | 35m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. Revenge! How did I fall off this last weekend? Still awesome.
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Medlow Bath The Sporting Complex | ||||||
26 ~25 | ★★ Leviathan | 32m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat attempt, not clean today. No real problems to the top boulder, but -absent chalk- it took me a bit to piece it together. Essentially, three boulders (each getting harder than the other) with easier climbing and good rests inbetween. The top headwall is super rad.
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25 Easy | ★★★ The Life of Riley | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. Sweet! It's been a decade since I was last on this (when I ticked it) and it was rad to get on it today and just do it straight up, placing draws, without too much difficulty.
One of the best technical, sustained, and consistently clean face climbs in NSW. |
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23 ~22 | ★★ Smoko | 35m, 16 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat attempt, not clean today. Whoops... The unsend! Totally botched the crux. Otherwise, had a great old time. This route is always so much better than I remember it being
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Mon 18th Mar 2024 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso The Wailing Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Hung on a Tree | 13m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Back-to-back-to-back thinness on positive edges. The technical finale is the best bit. No time for another shot.
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21 | ★ Sugar Mountain | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sharp little crimps, but everything is just so much more positive than you expect. A fun little ramble.
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Mon 18th Mar 2024 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso Golgotha | ||||||
22 | ★★★ The Long Kiss Goodnight | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Wow, I forgot what a wild showstopper the finale (through the roof direct) is. Earns the grade for this one sequence, but its a good one.
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19 | ★★★ Ghost Rider | 27m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. Just pleasant, flowing slabbing the whole way. Dreamy!
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Mon 18th Mar 2024 - Hillwood (private land) | ||||||
Matto Grosso The Leviathan | ||||||
22 | ★★ No Antidote | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I fell off the start boulder a couple of times till I found the holds. A very cool finale.
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21 | ★★ Yuddy Boody Noo | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Weird, funky, and tough.
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Sun 17th Mar 2024 - Bare Rock | ||||||
New Horizons | ||||||
23 ~24 | ★★ Captain Awesome | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another stacked one. The opening boulder gave me a fair bit of grief initially. I went through it twice, only to bungle easier moves higher up. Complex face climbing.
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24 | ★★★ The Mullets' Edge | 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat attempt - not clean today. In this instance, I couldn't even touch the opening move, but had no real trouble from after it to the top. But for the bouldery start, this route is better, and more arete-y than I remember it.
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21 | ★★ Way Of The Beanie | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really short, but really tricky and unrelenting in my opinion. I came close to falling a few times.
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Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Three O'Clock Hill | ||||||
22 | ★★ Rock Around the Clock | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short, but intense and unlikely.
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19 | ★ Crocodile Rock | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The best of the routes on this boulder. More technical and interesting than it looked from the ground.
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17 | ★ Rock N Roll is King | 12m | ★ Good | |||
An okay face climb.
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23 | ★★ Rock Steady | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 shots. Couldn't keep it together at the mid-point crux on either lap. A stacked upper half.
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23 | ★★ Rock Hard and Ride Free | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
An enjoyable, easy start, leads to a brutal, thin and technical finale. Exciting for a slab.
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23 | ★★ Hard as a Rock | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Surprisingly sustained thin moves the whole way. I didn't find the sneaky crimp near the top on my onsight attempt.
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21 | ★★ Let’s Get Rocked | 18m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A few cool moves when you first come around the arete, then victory jugs to the top.
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Fri 15th Mar 2024 - Bare Rock | ||||||
Boneyard | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Heaven Can Wait | 30m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat attempt -not clean today. Frustrating. I first onsighted this back in 2016, and have never fallen off it since. Today, I got utterly schooled. Some big falls, much complaining, and a pathetic effort. The sun didn't help, but that's certainly not wholly to blame.
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23 | ★★ Fire in the sky | 30m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Clean repeat. Well, at least I can still get up this one despite weakness and temps. Still a personal favourite.
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Sun 10th Mar 2024 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Liquid Insanity Area | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Mister Bean | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. 2 Laps. Truth be told, I fell off the bulge-boulder below the arete on my first lap, but corrected it on the second. A mixed bag of quality, and the arete itself is really easy, but it was still fun enough. Pretty much every hard move is escapable if you stray from the bolts a bit.
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23 | ★★ Fuzzy Logic | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. Been a long time since I onsighted this. Though I found it easy today, I didn't really enjoy it. Very contrived, and on average (grainy) rock. A few cool moves, though.
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22 ~23 | ★★ Just Technical | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. 2 Laps for training. Damn I love this thing
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ Susie now Settled | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Not clean. Great to have something new to do (all on gear) when you've done everything else here, but it is really contrived (and kinda hard to decide what exactly is "off route").
Regardless, it has some rad, powerful moves. With my busted wrist, there was a single move I couldn't do today, but otherwise it seemed "achievable"... maybe. |
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22 R | ★★★ Memorable Moves | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Repeat. My favourite route at Windjammer. Felt super relaxed and in control on it today, and got to the top without a pump.
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Rex Hunt's Area | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Bad Luck Streak | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. I remember this feeling nails, but I absolutely cruised it today. Super obvious, and super pleasant crack climbing.
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22 | ★★★ Northern Exposure | 30m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. I forgot how sustained this was. With my current form, I just barely squeaked it, to be honest.
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21 | ★★★ Rex Hunt's Love Child | 30m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat. This is just a really fun climb, and not too hard at the grade. Feeling good on the slow return-to-form after 5 months on the couch.
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Thu 7th Mar 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Ghidrah | ||||||
25 | ★★★ King Geedorah - with Match | 70m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
TRS Lap -seconding Mitch after the FA. Not clean today (2 falls) but given that I'd been on the couch for 5 months to this point, I was happy just to try really hard.
Most of my post-accident re-introduction to climbing has been tame, approachable, conventional crags. Being back on this monstrous monster is the sort of experience that reminds me why I've been trying to claw my way back to climbing so desperately. What a way to come back. |
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Sat 17th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Snake Cave | ||||||
20 Hard | FA ★ Outer Haven - with Glen Thomson | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
FA. Some great climbing at the start and once you start turning the cave roof, but the escapability into the choss cave, and the rock surrounding it knocks a start off. Might be hard at the grade? Though the grade is contingent on following the line of the bolts on the good rock, and not straying off into the choss.
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10 | Snake Cave Access Route | 10m, 4 | Don't Bother | |||
Ugh. Sand.
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21 | FA ★★ Peacewalker - with Glen Thomson | 16m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
FA. A super cool hard start up steep jugs, and a tricky face on great rock... then easier, but less inspiring climbing to the top.
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Sun 11th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Snake Cave | ||||||
23 | FA ★★ Sahelanthropus - with Greg Ducky, Philip Barker | 14m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
FA. A "Lowers Mountains Classic" (with all the caveats that statement encompasses).
A climb of many components, but the technical finale is definitely a show stopper. No boring bits, that's for sure. |
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Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence Main Wall (Upper) | ||||||
21 | ★★ Gimme Your Fingernails - with Philip Barker | 13m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short'n'sweet. Went direct through the small roof at the start to gain the line of the bolts (rather than heading out right, and traversing in via the corner).
When climbed this way, it's quite sustained the whole way, with lots of interesting thin moves. |
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Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Lapstone Confluence The Lost Woods | ||||||
18 Hard | FA ★ Korok Climb - with Philip Barker, Greg Ducky | 15m | ★ Good | |||
First Ascent. Climbed ground-up before it was cleaned/brushed, and it felt like gr21... But after a good session to clean it, it's settled at 18.
An interesting short slab, on mostly good rock, marred only by its escapability. |
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Fri 29th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Ali's Area | ||||||
3 | ★ Ali's - with Cast of Thousands (much love to you all!) | 60m | Don't Bother | |||
Curses! The Unsend! (Replete with red-carpet treatment and private helicopter ride to Melboune). Worst route at Araps?
Seriously, though; I have no words for the scale and magnitude and compassion of everyone who came together to pick me up from the lowest day of my life. I owe a lifetime of hugs and beers, it seems |
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Thu 28th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Wizard of lce - with Jacques Beaudoin | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Seconding Jacques. Hardly a proud or inspiring line, but it is a worthy challenge that had both of us grunting with effort.
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Thu 28th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Tjuringa Wall | ||||||
24 R | ★★ Bad Cheques | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd shot. Exciting send in the summery temps. Glad I didn't attempt the onsight, as that start is diabolical! I think this is borderline X without tricams, but maybe only R with them? Alas, I had no tricams. I loved the oozy, slinky style.
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25 R | ★★★ Tjuringa | 50m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2 short early morning sessions. I really liked this, but there was a single move I never did -Maybe I need crisp conditions to use the slopiest sloper that ever slopered? Beautiful, inspiring rock, and more sustained than I expected for a slab
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Tue 26th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★ Life in the Fast Lane | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Headlamp EOD attempt. Great! After the inconsequential start, this is rad and engaging all the way to the topout
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24 | ★★ Paladin | 16m | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd shot. Brutally hard through the short crux, but otherwise unremarkable. A good challenge to solve, but on balance I wouldn't say I enjoyed it.
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Mon 25th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
25 R | ★★★ Aftermath - with Simmo | 30m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd shot. So much fun!!! After seeing all the broken gear on this one, I decided to do an equipping lap, then smashed it second shot. Steep, juggy, intimidating pumpiness through outrageous steep terrain. Im pretty chuffed to say that I reached the anchor completely unpumped
I then downclimbed it to clean it |
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21 | ★★★ Trinity Wall - with Simmo | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Gripping! Its hard to grade something like this, where tenuousness, fear and difficulty are all coalescing. Suffice to say: spacey, technical, improbable, and intimidating.
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17 | ★★★ Oceanoid - with Simmo | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
One of the best easy routes Ive ever done in the country. This is an improbable, exposed, well-protected, mind-blowing, funky gigglefest... and I loooooooooved it.
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Sun 24th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Starless Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★★★ Los Endos - with Gerry Narkowicz | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Best route on this wall. Long, and continually interesting, spicey but not death. Great position punching up the arete =)
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17 | ★ Oh Bondage - with Gerry Narkowicz | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Seconding Gezza. Man, what a rad finish at the grade. Committing, despite appearances.
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25 | ★★ Ride Like the Wind Variant | 20m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd redpoint attempt, after a TRS rehearsal. Took a huuuuge fall on my first RP attempt. Short and hardly a "line" but cool rock and moves, and crazy sustained for a face climb.
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Thu 21st Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group High Dive Gully | ||||||
23 | ★★★ High Dive - with Ben Jenga | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Seconding Jenga -not clean.
The grade and quality of this route is contingent on how contrived you make it -which probably also reflects the range of opinions on the grade. The route as "officially described" is utterly nails at the grade, and super-duper contrived (essentially tackling the line of most resistance). If you do the crux traverse 50cm lower, this is about grade 21, and makes more logicical sense. Needless to say, I fell off the last crux move of the super-contrived version |
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Thu 21st Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Kachoong Area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Kachoong - with Lucas C | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. Seconding Lucas to get the gear back. Campused the roof for a laugh. What an iconic route!
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Thu 21st Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group High Dive Gully | ||||||
21 | ★★★ A Taste of Honey - with Ben Jenga | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. Seconding Jenga to get the gear back. Just goooood fun!
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21 | ★★★ A Taste of Honey - with Lucas C | 27m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Not a good warmup I flashed pumped on the last move of the traverse on my onsight, took the whip, and broke my cam
2nd shot was a cruiiiiiiiise and just super fun. More intimidating than Kachoong, and more technical for a steep climb, but not much harde grade-wise. |
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Thu 21st Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Kachoong Area | ||||||
21 | ★ Capilano - with Lucas C | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Seems kinda underrated? Wild, exposed, pumpy climbing at the grade. The traverse was all-time, right!
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Thu 21st Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ The Second Coming - with Rick Webb | 57m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Craaaazy slippery, and quite stop-start, but the rock is impeccable, and the moves are gnarly. The mantle gave me a bit of grief, and the start of P2 was bouldery... but the runout finale on small gear up the face was eye-opening!
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25 | ★★★ Trojan - with Mitch Perkins | 86m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd shot. My onsight attempt was an absokute debacle -I just couldn't seem to get my head around it, for some reason.
Then, when I figured my beta, the 2nd lap was kinda cruisy, I didn't get stressed or pumped. Weird? Objectively, its classic, slippery, burly, steep crack climbing, with a ruthless start. |
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19 | ★★★ Judgement Day - with Lucas C | 67m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super mega, exposed, and intimidating at the grade... but damn what a line! Both pitches are absolutely stellar exposed climbing.
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Wed 20th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face | ||||||
20 R | ★★ Dazed and Confused | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Kinda scary. I sandbagged myself climbing up the right arete of the boulder, then just got rattled by the poor gear and surprisingly average rock at the start of the real climbing. It was.more fun further up, though.
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27 | ★★★ Mind Arthritis - with Simmo | 25m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Exploratory lap. Mega climbing with a bouldery crimp crux. Not particularly scary -though all the bolts are in the wrong spot, its fine once the draws are on. I could probably do this this trip, but I think id rather get on more Arapilean-esque routes.
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Wed 20th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
12 | ★★ Dunes - with Ben Jenga | 100m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean Repeat -seconding Jenga. Route 2 of 2 of our speedy early morning ramble. Probably better than Eskimo Nell (and much better than I remember it).
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10 | ★★★ Eskimo Nell - with Ben Jenga | 130m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat -seconding Jenga. Route 1 of 2 in a speedy before-breakfast push to work up an appetite. Just a classic easy outing.
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Tue 19th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Cecilia Wall | ||||||
25 | ★★ Girls on Bikes | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Took a monster whip falling off the upper crux on my onsight-attempt. Then had a few more less dramatic falls before I pieced it together. A briefly thin and reachy sequence, but otherwise not tooooo hideous.
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23 | ★★★ Intransience | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very easy at the grade (and better protected than I expected) but super super fun! The start traverse is wild fun, and the finale is smoooooooothe face climbing pleasure.
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22 | ★★ Cecilia | 25m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Totally botched the start sequence and pumped out, then went back to the ground and sent. Probably about gr20 from the first bolt to the top, but the start is gnarly and slippery.
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Tue 19th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★★ Electric Warrior | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Jeebus! I found this nails at the grade. I struggled with the slippery start until I sorted my feet, though the top was no slouch either. One of the harder routes I've done at the grade.
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Mon 18th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Thunder Crack | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great! Id always avoided it for fear and mixed reviews, but it was awesome! The slippery start was less problematic than I expected, and the rest of it was stance-friendly exposed 3-Dimensional climbing.
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25 | ★★★ Station to Station | 22m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd shot. First lap was a bit of a debacle, but my first redpoint burn was a controlled cruise -wasn't even pumped at the top. Super funky grampians-esque start, then a burly and technical crack and arete finale. Steep fun in an exposed position.
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Mon 18th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Morfydd | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Yep, its a classic. I found the slippery start rather desperate, but once I found my groove, it was all gravy, baby. =)
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Ali's Area | ||||||
3 | ★ Ali's - with The Boyz | 60m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Best route at Araps? Pretty chuffed to onsight this slippery sucker.
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★★ Wild Arts | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Seconding Simmo. Climbed as a giant 50m pitch. Absolutely awesome in this manner, eith a super cool finale up the face.
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Sun 17th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | ||||||
24 |
★★ Dreadnought
- with
Simmo
1
24
2
24
| 54m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Thought the first pitch was kinda average (short, bouldery, uninspiring and on average rock for Arapiles), but P2 was mega (great rock, gnarly oozy moves, cool position). Linked both pitches for a more interesting outing.
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Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dreadnought Gully | ||||||
22 | ★★ Dreadnought Variant - with Simmo | 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wow! What a line. For such a short route, this one packs it in with wiiiiild climbing on great rock. Linking this into P2 of Dreadnought makes this line a proper classic!
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Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Wraith - with Simmo | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Not as good as Tannin. Rock is dubious in places, and some of the gear was a bit sketch. Still great, technical face-climbing, though
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19 | ★★★ Tannin - with Simmo | 35m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wow, amazing rock and climbing at the grade. How did I wait so long before trying this one? Aesthetic, technical and interesting.
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Blackheath Area Mt Blackheath Northern Walls | ||||||
25 | ★★★ The Terrible Truth About Time - with Heath Black | 35m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Stacked! So many dropable moves the whole way up. A face-climbing connoisseur's delight! Seconding the First Ascent clean -I almost came unstuck when the FA decided to use a locked locking bina bolt-side at the hardest crux, resulting in some mid-crux desperation. A classic for sure.
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23 | ★★ No Questions Asked - with Heath Black | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Super exposed arete climbing. Would be 3 stars but the rock is slightly less than perfect. Very technical, yet steep and pumpy.
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Sun 10th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Dogface Main Wall | ||||||
26 |
★★★ Gigantor (free version)
- with
Match, Monty
1
25
2
26
3
23
| 100m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Day 6 for the Redpoint!
I really wanted to come back and improve the style on this. Firstly, because I think mine is the first repeat of the route, and secondly, because this route is both harder and scarier to do it placing the gear (the former for P1, the latter for P2)... It's also proud enough that it warrants the extra effort. So, as you might imagine, I'm pretty chuffed to have gotten this done, and in pretty good style. Full disclosure: I did have the first few pieces of gear clipped off the belay at the start of each pitch. Quote of the day: "Don't get upset if I start freaking out; I'm weak, wimpy Frothy, not bold, strong Zackie" |
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Fri 8th Sep 2023 - Vaucluse | ||||||
Diamond Bay Northern Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Violet Town - with Tom Collins | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2nd shot. Fell off AFTER the upper crux on my onsight due to an amateurish foot-slip on an easy move 2nd shot was a cruise, but DAMN its fun. Really nice rock, cool moves, and not too hard at the grade. This would be a classic anywhere, in my opinion.
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26 | ★★ Ordeal by Fur - with Tom Collins | 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Almost a classic, but that its essentially about gr24 with a v6+ crux. Night time attempt, 2 shots, awesome second lap but still couldn't link that crux, unfortunately. The rest of the route is great, though.
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Thu 7th Sep 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Dogface Main Wall | ||||||
26 R | ★★★ Gigantor (free version) - with Match, Simmo | 100m | ★★★ Classic | |||
5 days of effort to this point.
Pretty chuffed to get both this and Titan done free within the span of a month. As with Titan, I really wanted to prove to myself that I could do this. I wasn't planning on doing it until next season, but had an unscheduled day, and decided to check it out... and I was immediately hooked on the challenge. As to the route: If the rock wasn't choss -even if it was just your run-of-the-mill Blueys Sandstone, I'd call this the single best crack climbing I've been on in the entire world (and I don't think my resume is lacking when it comes to crack climbing) for position, sustainedness, and purity. It would also be a super-duper obvious contender to climb as a giant pitch. Alas, it is choss, so while I still regard it as classic, that is very much a subjective opinion, and I think prospective repeat ascensionists should really consider whether this will be their cup-of-tea or not. P1 - is amazingly varied and technical climbing. Personally, I probably found this physically harder than P2 (in that, its more cruxy) and in some ways scarier (due to insecure cruxes). The opening finger-locking is aesthetic and great, and the insecure laybacking through the middle lends itself to complex footwork. P2 - Looser than P1 for sure (the start of the pitch is horrible!), but quite stacked. This has a lot of hard moves with no super chill rest. I found the last moves to the anchor to be the crux, there there was about 5 sections I could genuinely have fallen off on. P3 - To be honest, I didn't like this pitch at all. Loose, hard to protect short crack section, followed by a sandy traverse on eroding edges to gain the topout ledge. Less sandy/chossy than you might expect in some ways... More sandy/chossy than you might expect in others. There's an "unpredictability" to the rock here that most other chossy routes I've climbed don't quite have. The gear is also pretty good, provided you're smart about where you place, and remember that spreading fall-load over a larger surface area is better than the alternative (read: passive pro, dammit!). Don't trust the fixed gear, though |
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Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Sharon Stone | ||||||
25 | ★★ Beaver Shot - with Match | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One day I'll tick this
Super fun start and finish, but I find the crux rather nails. An easy way of making this less cruxy (at the same grade) is to traverse left around the little crux boulder, since you end up back on-line by the next bolt anyway. |
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25 | ★★ He Said, She Said - with Match | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Clean repeat. Super fun. This one ha cleaned up nicely since I last did it. Easy for the grade. Great start and finish
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23 | ★★★ Sensory Overload - with Match | 20m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another repeat. Never gets old
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Tue 22nd Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Katoomba Area Katoomba Cliffs Dogface Main Wall | ||||||
26 |
★★ Titan
- with
Match, Simmo, Stephen Varney
1
19
35
2
18
30
3
26
20
4
26
25
| 110m | ★ Good | |||
5 days of effort in total to put this all together. I pink-pointed the top 2 pitches, and had the first 2m of gear pre-clipped on P3. I broke 4 fixed pegs, and 1 hourglass carrot during this process. I also took 5 falls -one of which was a sideways whip onto an hourglass carrot, that somehow held my fall!
I wanted to climb something hard on Dogface to prove to myself that I could -I've always believed that I could, but the time had come to prove it. I found this a conflicting experience. I liked the climbing on the crux pitches, and -surprisingly- didn't end up finding the bad rock/gear as terrifying as I expected. However, because every single lap the route gets harder (breakages, holds become sandier, others become more rounded, fixed gear breaks, etc) my whole experience was stressful due to the knowledge that sooner or later it would be too hard for me to climb. I've never really climbed with this type of time-constraint before (wherein, every failed lap is punished by adding .1 of a grade to the pitch). Interestingly, the bottom 2 pitches are quite moderate, and actually surprisingly good (the rock isn't too bad, the gear is pretty good, and the climbing is fun!). These pitches are probably worth doing in their own right. After that, it gets rather sandy, and kinda hard P3 had a wildly technical thin stepped corner (on good gear) to start it off (it took me quite a while to figure out the beta), followed by easy, loose, runout rambling. P4 had a very cool seam-crack crux, followed by interesting, technical, runout slab climbing on deteriorating rock. |
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Sun 20th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | ||||||
25 ~28 |
★★★ Snakes & Ladders
1
2
3
| 80m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I spent 4 days on this route over the last 4 years -including my first attempt "group up" with Emil in the snow (back when no one really knew anything about this route, except that it looked rad).
P1 and P3 are inconsequential, but P2 is absolutely stunning. Its basically a mega mega left-leaning seam-crack at 24/25, guarded by a V8+ crack boulder that I could "sort of" do the moves on, but never really had any chance to link. Over my visits, I replaced the anchors on this, so there's really no reason for you not (prospective ascent reader) to get on it. |
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Sun 6th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown | ||||||
24 M1 |
★★★ Iron Curtain
- with
Match, Simmo
1
24 M1
2
21
3
21
| 58m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A genuinely mega trad route, that should be on everyone's "classic cracks" list. The roof of the first pitch is all-time mega steep crack climbing, with great gear, and stacked moves all the way to the anchor. And yes, Anton Korsun they're actual crack moves
The 2nd pitch has a scary start, but otherwise is great crack climbing. I linked the pitch into the top pitch (which was rather gnarly, having only brought 3 bolt plates). Pitch 3 has a very hard start through a rooflet, followed by pleasant facey rambling. IMHO, I'd suggest continuing up the grey slab to the top, rather than traversing out left to carrots. (I did the traverse, and just found it contrived.) Regarding my 24M1 grading on P1: I never managed to do 1 move off the ground (between the slippery righthand crimp, and the first tight fingerlock -which I can only just fit back-3 1-pad in with careful placement- with no feet) so climbed with the left hand pre-set-up, then up to the top (hence a point of aid off the ground). I'm not sure whether the collapse of the foot pedestal at the base of the route may be a factor, or whether I just have to concede that the start is too thin/hard for me. Regardless, doing it with a point of aid off the ground was still great climbing I had some bad luck on the rest of the First pitch; breaking off a key hold, pinching a nerve in my hand so bad I had to drop off to recover, and taking a gear-ripping fall at one point. As such, my ascent was far from perfect style. Still, the fact I totally rate this crack despite these setbacks, is a testament to how good it is |
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Mon 31st Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Glenbrook Bluffs | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Width Pleasure — 4 attempts - with Greg Ducky, Philip Barker | 7m | ★★★ Classic | |||
After work in-a-day send by headlamp!
Great rock for the lower mountains, and wiiiiild moves climbing inverted feet in the offwidth. I found the moves to turn the lip and mantle out pretty bouldery at the grade, but maybe I had a silly sequence? Would love to hear beta on it. I can only think of 3 other offwidths in the greater Blueys that compares in the grade range/style, and this is probably the best. For some reason I didn't read the description, and only brought 2 x 5's, which was not ideal. I'll be back with the right gear for the red point, cause this puppy is totally worth it! |
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Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown | ||||||
25 | ★★ Little Boyce Room — 2 attempts | 26m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great! Not too hard at the grade, but bloody awesome. The low crux is just fun, but everything above it is mega at about gr23. Great rock, and pretty sustained. Might be my favourite route here.
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26 | ★★ Yumster — 6 attempts | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6th shot. Took me 4 laps to ever come up with a consistent sequence for the crux. 5th lap I went through the crux, and fell off the first stemming move... 6th lap for the win.
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Sat 29th Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Beastie Boyce — 6 attempts | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6th shot total, and 4 core-shotting falls at the lower crux.
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Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Lower Blue Mountains Falling Water Wall Lower Cliff | ||||||
27 | FA ★★★ Litany of the Long Sun - with Simmo, Rick Webb | 75m, 20 | ★★★ Classic | |||
What a journey! Surprise send, after spending the morning on Simmo's route, and only tackling this at the end of the day with a view to sorting out the "send logistics" (with a route this long, steep, and wandery... It's fair to say that it's involved).
There's just so much here to remember, and with it being so steep, you're always on a timer to get it done. Steep, gymnastic, and sometimes quite technical. Would be megaclassic, but the rock is only about as good as Sunny Side Bell, so far from the best the Blueys has to offer. It's almost too hard to sum it up at an experience, even with the copious amounts of hyperbole I can command 2 Full days working the bottom 26/27 arete, and the effort I originally put in to climb Gaze a Gazely Stare (as well as a few repeated laps for fitness and training). On the send, I committed to constant 5m+ runouts to avoid dealing with rope drag. |
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Sat 22nd Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown | ||||||
25 | ★★ Boyce Light Up | 30m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
2nd shot. I only carried 2 draws through the crux, so climbed the top 20m clipping only 2 bolts.
A funky (but incongruous) start crux leads to a magnificient gr21ish headwall up cool grooves and scoops. |
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Thu 20th Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Boycetown | ||||||
25 | FA ★★★ Harbinger | 50m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Repeat to do placing gear. Definitely scarier placing, as the best gear to protect the finale is grades harder to place on lead... so I just didn't place it. Wild cranking a roof boulder, way above gear, miles out in space.
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