5 more shots today. 1st - Warmup lap. Fell off mid-crux. 2nd - Tried skipping the crux clip entirely, fell with my hand on the end of cruxsloper "jug" and fell past 4 bolts to stop 1m from the ledge. 3rd - Stuck the crux but the edge of my heel-hooked sloper broke off and I fell. 4th - With no rest after 3rd shot. Went again but grabbed the sloper "jug" wrong. 5th - Made it through the crux, clipped post crux draw but fell off a few moves higher... too tired! 6th day on, and 12 shots at this.
5 more shots, all with just the 1 fall at different points of the crux. 1st - grabbed crux draw as I hadnt worked the clip into the sequence, and cant skip it. 2nd - Made the crux clip from a totally blind tips layback stance, but in my desperation z-clipped! 3rd - Done with no rest after 2nd, a few crux moves higher but too pumped. 4th - High point to the last move of the crux. After falling found a sneaky heelhook which makes the last move easier. 5th - Lowpoint OTD, just too pumped at 8pm.
2 shots. Proper, bloody HARD. First was a monster dogfest. 2nd was battled downto 2 falls First 6 bolts looks easy but is nails with powerfulslippery fingerlocks and openhand slopers. Crux is at the 5th bolt. The 7th and 8th bolt is steep with rad big moves, after which the line joins the gr25 all-gear offwidth to the left (via some powerful moves) at its 2nd crux. Battling up the offwidth and committing to the runouts on gear is a final headf#@k to make you work. Very aesthetically pleasing.
Ouch. All gear off-width and v-groove steepchimney does not make a good warmup. Battled up the start at a snails pace, ate up the middle steepjamming and stemming, and breathed HARD on the final sporty steep laybacking. The last moves to the anchors is powerful with your gear far below. Not a true onsight, as I backed off the (easy, committing) start twice and used a cam I'd placed from the ground to get back to the ledge rather than downclimbing.
Onsight through crux to 5th bolt. Ended up off route and fell of trying to get back on. Then clean to the 2nd last bolt. Had a look at the upper arete moves but couldnt be bothered wasting more skin, and with the crazy wind blowing me all over the place I bailed off the bail biner that someone else had left behind. Pretty goodarete climbing but sharp and crimpy, and the rock is grainy and sandy.
It was raining proper when we finally made it to Lost World, the crack was soaking and muddy... But dammit I'm going to climb something today! I found all of this insecure, slippery and hard to protect (especially the awkward off-width start)... BUT if you subtract the rain experience this is actually a pretty damn awesomesustainedcrack climb on perfect rock encompassing a variety of techniques and bomber pro... Just avoid it like the plague in the rain.
2 shots. Skin destroying arete-slapping, heel-wrapping bouldering like I've never tried before. First lap was a dogs breakfast that destroyed my skin and my muscles. 2nd shot had linkage and sequences coming together, and now theres only 1 move I'm not sure of. Would like to try this again (when my skin heals!). Strenuous, powerful, desperate and insecure, but UNIQUE in my experience.
Nooo... 1 fall turning the upper roof. My sequence was fine, but I was worn out. The bottom 1/3rd of this was damp, and I actually slipped off getting to the 3rd bolt and landed in a tree (violently). Started from the ground straight away and battled to the final crux (though the entire route is SUSTAINED).A monster of a climb that left me drained by the anchors, though its more frimping feature climbing on either side of the arete, and less pure arete movement. Quite classic, but not quite MEGA
2nd shot. 1 fall on the onsight (warm up). Thought this was the bolted 21 arete nearby to do as a warm up. Thought it seemed insanely hard, and insanely runout to the 1st bolt (8m up, gr19 climbing), and scarily runout at the top. In hindsite that would be because we were on the wrong climb, and THIS one is supposed to be supplemented with gear. Only gave this another lap to get the draws back. Goodarete climbing with some great (and brutal) sequences which I thought were quite strenuous.
Didn't have any trad gear, so I just didnt place any... The trad-protected moves are only like gr20, but I sure as hell didn't want to fall. Hard, bouldery start with tricky footers, and some wicked moves to gain and mount the arete before the anchors.
So damn close on the onsight! Made it to the last bolt, 2m from the anchors (past the stemming crux), and slipped off a sea-cliff spoogy open-handed undercling (which I felt solid on) as I went to start the final sequence (about gr23) to the anchors. Awesome, super-blank steep stemming coming after so much climbing, with the final moves to the anchor being especially rad and involved.
A climb in 3 sections... crazysteep start with big moves on good holds to a rest; shorter, less-steep and less juggy middle-section to another rest; And a final face-climbing headwall with tricky, improbable moves on not-so-good holds to the anchor. The upper section makes this climb! The anchor (which is actually for another climb to the left) needs to be moved about 1m right.
Out there! Wild! Intense! Alas, close but no cigar. At the end of a looong day to climb Pole Dancer, we climbed a gr16 off-width to get to The Finger (and down-climbed it to exit). I managed to Onsight to the last bolt, before breaking a footer in the vague seam that I was backheeling, managing to hold on, and losing my nerve before I could commit to the sideways deadpoint (to grab both aretes at the end). Pulled back on and went to the summit. Intense, precarious and strenuousarete climbing.