Maybe 10 more shots? Every single time, left hand on crimp, right hand on intermediate, foot on the point, but I just can't do the rock-over to the jug on link. Today this stopped being fun and just put me in a pissed-off mood for this whole session.
2 shots. Its getting almost comical that I haven't managed to tick this yet, since it fits my style perfectly, and doesn't actually feel hard to me. The first-attempt was a disgusting mess and might well constitute crimes against rock-climbing (I felt terrible, pumped out below the ledge, and bumbled around like an idiot). The 2nd shot was a fun CRUISE until I fell victim to someone elses tick-mark at 2/3rds height on a pocket meant for fingers smaller than mine (which I've never used before).
Repeat. Made a good warm-up, and is soft if you're tall. I did the contrived "direct finish" loading up unto sloper-underclings rather than bailing onto the holds (and now new route) out right to make it a bit more challenging.
With JengA. Top 4 pitches only as part of the Iron Curtain-Screaming Tribesman linkup. If it weren't for the brilliant all-trad P6, this climb would be utter rubbish. P6 - 2nd Clean; P7 - Fell off getting from the cam to the 2nd bolt, then dogged my way through the pitch; P8 - 2nd Clean; P9 - O/S. The 25 pitch on this would be dangerous to tackle at 22 A1 considering what is required, and its a chossy mess of chipped climbing regardless. P8 could be good but is very dirty and runout.
With JengA. Sustained, techy, varied and beautiful friction slabbing almost the whole way. Not easy despite being "easiest" in the Gorge. P1 - O/S; P2 - 2nd Clean; P3 & P4 (combined for a rad 50m pitch) - O/S. Beautiful!
With JengA. About 9 hours car to car. Every pitch on this is worthwhile, and every pitch is a sustained challenge at the grade. Led the even # pitches. Unfortunately broke footers on P1 and P4 and fell while cruising. Took an upside-down whipper off the last move of the 24 pitch (just missing the onsight). Did all the moves on 2nd (with quite a few rests) but got spanked by the 26 pitch. A stunning, intimidating, all-day epic. Completely worthwhile and inspiring.
Lots and lots of shots until my hands were destroyed. Not optimum conditions, but that certainly wasn't what was letting me down. Came close a few times (one time even fell off the finishing jug due to a lack of commitment), but the climb is as dialled as it can be... Now I just need to keep it together for a send.
Seconding Emily. Not too bad. Maybe a bit hard at the grade, but then, this is "The County". 6 bolts and a few bits of gear. Not as dirty as I was expecting. We walked back down via the 39 Steps (fixed ladder) in a few minutes.
Wow! Might be one of the best routes I've ever been on! About 1.5 grades harder than Toyland Direct. Absolutely stunning! Demanding and unforgiving, technical, pumpy, thin-as face climbing that doesn't let up until the anchors. 2 shots. On my 2nd I had 1 fall at the 3rd last bolt and "belaying difficultties" led me to grab the last draw to clip before continuing on. I really hope I can tick this next time, because -for me- this would be as memorable a climb to send as any I've done.