With JengA. P1 - Onsight. P2 - Second Clean. The stunning (terrifying?) second pitch is unfortunately marred by the vegetated, wet, dirty, friable, and almost unprotected, dangerous 1st pitch sketch-athon. Fortunately P2 is a stellar piece of mega-exposed, run-out, committing foot-loose jug-hauling across this amazing piece of rock. Finished in the dark with a headlamp.
3rd shot (should've been second, but I forgot about a crucial footer). Feels about 23 when the gear/bolt plates are on it. Awkward, strenuous climbing for about 7m, then a pleasantrunout cruise to the anchors of Traverse of the Gods.
Slipped off a sandy footer on the easy climbing of the Arete Variant Start before I'd even gotten onto The Plunge itself, then cruised The Plunge proper without breaking a sweat. A frustrating stroke of misfortune.Great climbing with a number of tricky (and strange) sequences between good stances. No-hands rests all the way up make it quite a pleasant undertaking in the style. Rebolted, but still a bit run-out to keep it interesting.
Climbed as one long pitch. Not a bad climb, but hardly amazing. A bit dirty and friable at the bottom, and contrived in its entirety... Nevertheless, climbing it as an eliminate makes for a challenging, memorable number towards the top. Probably not deserving of all the hatred it has here on TheCrag.
Pitch 2 ONLY. A LOT harder than I was expecting. Dyno start, then bouldery moves to a tricky (desparate) mantle, then hard power-slabbing (crux) before finally getting a breather... and only 30m of climbing to go. The rest of the climb is ~21 but still tough. I'm glad to have put together the start sequence, but its gonna be a damn mighty fight for the tick. A pretty awesome pitch, though.
Pitch 1 (Access Pitch) ONLY. Short and intense. The opening moves are bouldery with some tricky core-engaged spanning moves, but the crux is definately get established after the lip-turn, and it took me 4 shots to stick the sequence. The 3rd bolt is tricky to place the draw on lead.
Shut down again. The entire crux section was running with water after the recent rains. I spent an hour repeatedly falling off the sopping wet crux moves before bailing. This just isn't that hard, but I can't catch a break to get the send.
Wow, dissappointing. I couldn't put together the bouldery lip-turn sequence at the end of the roof at all, despite numerous attempts and many different sequences. It seemed very snatchy and desparate to me, but maybe I'm just weak. Bailed to spare my belayer a long and tedious belay.
4 shots. Can do the crux sequence SOMETIMES, but never managed to do it on the link. Delicate, yet intense laybacking up a steep corner with no feet... My feet randomly popped off the wall numerous times, and I managed to hit my head on the rock at one point in a surprise fall. The rock above the (obvious) crux is not so good, but the climbing is still quite good and challenging.
Had a few goes at the crux, and decided I couldn't be bothered trying to put it together as a warm-up. Nails crux with really snatchy, desperate moves on bad holds. The climbing TO the crux and AFTER it is challenging and technical, and thoroughly enjoyable... Which only highlights the dissappointment of the crux itself.
Seconded JengA on this, thinking it was a 20 (as per the new guide). Finished it clean on second, thinking "soft-ish 20 is about right", but 17??? Maybe if you get right into the off-width and climb it that way, but then the bolts would be in a stupid position. Some hard moves on the face as well, after the traverse. An obscure gem, but a monster sandbag at 17.
Almost had the onsight, didn't see the crucial pocket on the final move before the jugs at the top and tried to muscle through it on non-existant crimps. Damn it! Feisty number from start to finish, with plenty of tricky moves broken up by a few rad hand-jams. Hard at 21?
Took a big fall at the jug at the lip, and couldn't be bothered bumping back up to try and finish it. Pretty cool roofing on mostly juggy holds (with some tricky foot movement). I think that this might go with a few more laps to consolidate, but I was just getting too tired. One for another day.
2 shots in the sun. Considering how bad the first attempt was (I HATE slopers!), it was a heartbreaker to fall off on the LAST FOOT MOVEMENT before the anchors on the second shot. Other than that, the 2nd shot was executed perfectly. Technical, awkward, slopey and weird. This climb and I hated each other at first, but over time we reconciled. I'll be back.
Grunty. It probably is only 17 in this particular STYLE of crack climbing (wide hands and fists and awkward movement) but I think most will find it tricky. I thought it was quite strenuous. Not too bad at all. The lower-offs are bloody convenient. Bring 1 x BD #2, 2-3 #3's, and 2-3 #4s (depending on how comfortable you are with runouts).
Very good climbing, flows nicely the whole way. A bit crowded towards the top with the routes on either side (and contrived to avoid shared holds) but -in some ways- this route surpasses both of them. Long and funky.