This is not better than chocolate. In fact, I have eaten chocolate that I found in the street gutter, covered in chew marks from mice that was better than this climb. I do not rate it at all. The start of the first pitch is cool. But the rest is just awful. There could however, be some confusion to what route we were actually on.
Sam insisted on a ground up approach. So after he bailed off the start.... I placed the gear, fell higher up, and thus get a seconder's ascent :( I had a rope and backpack on my back which did not help.
Tough! Managed to onsight it with a wet seeping hold at the crux! This climb is apparently harder than the stated 20 as a hold has come of. It is real unerving climbing, but the gear is good, and the crux section relatively short. Exposure is great